[MBZ] Replacing A/C compressor in a 240D

2010-04-05 Thread archer
I've looked all over and can't find any nuts and bolts descriptions of this 
job except for the MB disc.

All help much appreciated.
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 



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Re: [MBZ] Doors, windows, window motors, check straps

2010-04-05 Thread John Reames
Don't the 126's have little tease fittings on the hinges?  They should  
look like shallow cups (conical inside) with a ball in the bottom...  
Use a mini grease gun with a conical tip needle end (like is used  
for zero fittings in tight locations) with a pipe (as opposed to a  
hose) between the needle and the gun.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 4, 2010, at 18:11, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net 
 wrote:


So I got into the driver door of the 300SD today to see what was  
wrong with the window not going up/down.  I checked the switches,  
power, all that, was fine.  A couple weeks ago I got in there for  
the same problem, and it started working though I'm not sure what I  
did.  So anyway, I swapped a good motor onto the regulator (tested  
it first by hooking it to the black/green, touched it to ground --  
another question) and it works fine.  (Note:  you can do this  
without removing the window regulator, just undo the bolts on the  
back of the regulator that hold the motor, then undo the regulator  
nuts and one bolt, and you can sorta push the regulator in and  
around a bit to get the motor out of its place and unmesh the gears)


So now, I am wondering how to test the other motor out of the car,  
which seems dead.  Both the black and green are 12V just sitting  
there.  The switch has one 12V leg (red) and the black and greens.   
Green and black are closed to12V hot (red on the switch) when the  
switch is centered, so both 12V.  Closing the switch opens either  
the green or black, and the other side stays closed to 12V (here is  
where I forgot to write which opens when you push the switch for up  
or down, but it really doesn't matter for my question).  Qs1:  So is  
the current grounding through the motor body when you push the  
switch?  Or since the other lead is open does it flow through  
there to somewhere?  I am trying to get at whether if I ground the  
motor body and hit 12V to one or the other leads if I will get motion.


Door check straps were making lots of noise on the rear doors, I  
found them both dry as a bone inside where the check strap slides in  
the thing, I greased them up and they seem to be a lot better now,   
Q2:  How can you grease the hinges and pins?


Back window has a broken plastic slider and is flopping around, so  
guess I need to order some of those.  PITA.  My son's car has some  
broken ones too, and I have some salvaged regulators, so maybe I  
will fix them all to have spares.


--R



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Re: [MBZ] New Bilsteins from Rusty

2010-04-05 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I snapped one on a front shock ages ago, during the tightening phase. I
suspect it had a casting flaw - the bit stuck in the control arm was
only finger tight and came out with no problem at all, so I re-used one
of the old screws.

Rear sub-frame bushings are fun, unless your car is stricken with the
tin worm...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 9:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New Bilsteins from Rusty

Do you have an air (or electric now too) impact driver?  Those are good
for loosening up bolts and nuts like that.

--R

Michael Esh wrote:
   My 84 300D with 284,000 mile has been pitching and rolling quite a 
 bit lately and in the wind it felt like it was steering itself.
 Someone on the list mentioned rear mounts and bushings and well as new

 shocks may help with this.  Thanks to Rusty new shocks were on sale 
 this month. http://www.buymbparts.biz/.  I ordered the heavy duty 
 option and wow, what a difference, well worth the investment.  The 
 previous owner had put Gabriels on the rear and there were Bilsteins 
 on the front.  Subframe mounts and bushings are next.  Hopefully this 
 will help reduce the swaying somewhat.
 I replaced the shocks myself and snapped off one of the bottom rear 
 shock bolts.  (What a bonehead).  My first was mistake was using 1/2 
 in drive tools instead of 3/8.  Second mistake was not using a little 
 heat on the bolts.  The last 3 came came off very easily after warming

 them up bit with MAPS gas.  I plan on having my local Indie put new 
 rear sub frame mounts and bushings in this week.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] OT Deer or Gator bellowing?

2010-04-05 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
The rutting season (for deer) will be in the fall, now is when new fawns
are or will shortly be born, so I don't think buck snorting is what
you've got.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 6:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Deer or Gator bellowing?

So I was out working on the SD this afternoon, the driveway to the
garage is down by the marsh.  At some point I hear this
groaning/bellowing/moaning sound coming from the marsh not too far away.
I heard this same sound last fall, and saw something in the marsh grass
rustling it, made me think it was a gator so I did not check it too
closely.  They do come into the brackish water sometimes but don't stay.
Now we have lots of deer all over, and I have heard OF bucksnort but
don't really know what that sounds like (unless that is what I heard).
Given it is spring, and I would guess the deer have some things on their
limited minds, I wondered if it might be a buck up to some of that
business.  I do know gators will make sort of a bellowing sound, but
wouldn't know that for sure either.  I went and poked around a bit but
saw neither, so not sure what it was.  The dogs are fairly useless in
this regard, the other day there were 4 does out not far from their
fence, and the dogs were asleep by the back door, though they did
finally get a scent or something then went crazy and the deer ran away.

Anyone an expert on bucksnorts or gator bellowing?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] OT Deer or Gator bellowing?

2010-04-05 Thread Rich Thomas
YOW!  Gator bellow #2 is what I heard!  I might not be poking around out 
there for awhile.  Thanks for digging that up.


--R

On 4/4/2010 11:59 PM, archer wrote:

U.S.Fish and Wildlife have this site:
http://www.fws.gov/video/sound.htm
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
--
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
So I was out working on the SD this afternoon, the driveway to the 
garage is down by the marsh.  At some point I hear this 
groaning/bellowing/moaning sound coming from the marsh not too far 
away.  I heard this same sound last fall, and saw something in the 
marsh grass rustling it, made me think it was a gator so I did not 
check it too closely.  They do come into the brackish water sometimes 
but don't stay.  Now we have lots of deer all over, and I have heard 
OF bucksnort but don't really know what that sounds like (unless 
that is what I heard).  Given it is spring, and I would guess the 
deer have some things on their limited minds, I wondered if it might 
be a buck up to some of that business.  I do know gators will make 
sort of a bellowing sound, but wouldn't know that for sure either.  I 
went and poked around a bit but saw neither, so not sure what it 
was.  The dogs are fairly useless in this regard, the other day there 
were 4 does out not far from their fence, and the dogs were asleep by 
the back door, though they did finally get a scent or something then 
went crazy and the deer ran away.


Anyone an expert on bucksnorts or gator bellowing?

--R



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Re: [MBZ] Here's a diesel for you!

2010-04-05 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Hmmm, dodging SAM over Hanoi vs. purchasing Olds diesel, hmmm...  I'll
take the diesel!

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 6:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Here's a diesel for you!

I've always had a lot of curiosity, but, thankfully, it has never
reached that level.  ;

BTW, when I got home from Greenland in '79 we were needing another car.
I had decided that I wanted to get 240D.  It was about Aug/Sep, and MB
stealers didn't have any new ones - waiting for '80's.  Meanwhile, I
drove past an Oldsmobile dealership and saw a new Olds Diesel sitting
there; took it for a drive; almost bought it, but hesitated for coupla
days; 'called MB stealer, again, and they then had a 240D.
That, along with the nights I flew missions to Hanoi, was another lucky
day, when I did not buy that Olds.  I dodged a lot of SAMs (missiles)
over Hanoi; dodged a big bullet that day.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Here's a diesel for you!


 On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
wrote:
 no, the slightest bit of water and those nozzles will be junk.
(unless 
 you
 put a good separator/filter on it.)

 Everything I can find online about the 5.7 diesel says that it was
 unreliable in the first couple of years, but GM figured it out about
 '83 or so and upgraded all the existing engines under an extensive
 recall program.

 So... the fact that it's lasted 30 years and runs fine means one of
 the following:
 1. the seller has been extremely lucky
 2. the car was repaired under those recalls and now is fine
 3. a water separator was installed at sale (as I've read, some more
 diesel-savvy dealers did that) and kept the engine from suffering the
 water-related head and injector problems that they were prone to.

 I would point out that no MB diesel ever came from the factory with a
 water separator.  The problem with the GM diesels, from what I can
 tell, wasn't water in the fuel per se; it was inadequate head bolts,
 exacerbated by the occassional slug of water in the fuel which raises
 compression ratio for a cycle or two.

 All this being said, I wouldn't buy one except as a curiosity.

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Next DTV antenna Q

2010-04-05 Thread Dieselhead

Thanks!

I read last night that adding a splitter cuts the strength 
significantly.  I hooked up a 4 way splitterin the attic, so I think 
the first thing to do is to take that out and connect the antenna to 
only one tv.  (that is all she has anyway.)  Then I will try boosting 
the signal, if need be.  I may try addin the second matching antenna, 
as the 75 to 100 mile stations are close to 180 degrees apart, but of 
course that line is almost perpendicular to the 25 mile stations. 
Thus the question about two antennas, one pointed at the close 
stations, and one pointed toward the distant stations.  They would be 
about 90 degrees from each other.


The recommended Winegard antenna appears to be over 100 inches long, 
with 64 elements. and well over $100.  My $6.00 antenna brings in 
stations around 70 miles away, and if I eliminate the splitter, It 
will probably do better.  If I can pull up to 100 miles, it would be 
as many choices as cable, (but with many repeats)  The only reason it 
cost me that much is because I had to buy the flat to coax 
adapticator from RadioJunk.


If my makezine antenna pulls in about as well as a $100 plus top of 
the line antenna, I am impressed!  I know the one I put up in 
Northern WI pulls  in more stations than we ever got with analog tv.


I am just annoyed that radioJunk gets $6.00 for a $1.00 adapter that 
probably costs them 32 cents to make.





Yes - but ---
Ideally you want to use 1/4 wave lines and impedance matching to combine the
signals, but that's hard with a wide frequency range to cover. Try the
splitter and see how it works.

On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


 Read that link I posted

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Large-DB8-HDTV-Antenna-Big-Bertha/ 
the guy uses a splitter to make a combiner, but apparently phase 
matching

 might be an issue.  I don't know.

 --R


 On 4/4/2010 11:07 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


 Is it possible to use more than one DTV antenna and combine the signals.
  I know there are splitters, but is there a signal combiner?

 OKDons talk about combining alternators got me thinking about combining
 antenna signals.

 --
 OK Don
 Panic! (the national past time).




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Re: [MBZ] OT Deer or Gator bellowing?

2010-04-05 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
YOW!  Gator bellow #2 is what I heard!  I might not be poking around out 
there for awhile.  Thanks for digging that up.


I didn't know that alligators purred. Or was it snoring?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing A/C compressor in a 240D

2010-04-05 Thread harry watkins
Rusty/Tom got all the mounting hardware I needed to remount my 240D 
compressor.


Harry


I've looked all over and can't find any nuts and bolts descriptions of 
this job except for the MB disc.

All help much appreciated.
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D



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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread Rusty Cullens

Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement



Does that price he has include both sides or is that per side?

Dieselhead wrote:
The bugaboo is the the outer joint for the lower control arm in the wheel 
carrier.  It takes a special tool (press) of course.I took them off 
and took them to a good tire shop.  they pressed out the old and in the 
new.  I think the sequence you suggest is right.  I see Rusty has the 
links on sale again this month.  He always does that a couple weeks after 
I do the job.  It is a very good price!



This weekend looks good for finally replacing the worn, sloppy rear 
links in

the '90 300D. Is there a perferred sequence for replacing them, or just
follow the sequence in the manual (camber, torque, tie rod, thrust)?

The instructions say press tensioning sleeve out of wheel carrier for 
each

of the links - is a BFH the usual tool for this job? Is there a trick to
pressing them back in?

TIA -- OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro 
manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread John Robbins

On 4/5/2010 9:09 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.


Are they legit OEM parts or no-name brand?

John

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread Rusty Cullens
They are legit no name brand. I have sold hundreds of them with no issues. 
$199.00 versus $510.76 Lemforder.



Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: John Robbins je...@msstate.edu

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement



On 4/5/2010 9:09 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.


Are they legit OEM parts or no-name brand?

John

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread John Robbins

On 4/5/2010 9:42 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

They are legit no name brand. I have sold hundreds of them with no
issues. $199.00 versus $510.76 Lemforder.


Very, very tempting.  Will need to look into Sportline upgrades, which 
are obviously not going to be covered by your special. ;) I think the 
Sportline stuff is only the front/rear subframe mounts.


John


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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axle link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread Rich Thomas



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[MBZ] Hello? Anyone there?

2010-04-05 Thread R A Bennell
No posts since Friday??

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread Mitch Haley

Rusty Cullens wrote:

Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.


The hardware includes the special bolts to put new links on old cars?

Do W124 and W201 take the same kit, or just the same price?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Hello? Anyone there?

2010-04-05 Thread Bob Rentfro
I believe we're here

Bob R

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 8:22 AM, R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:

 No posts since Friday??

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread Rusty Cullens
both cars take same kit. these kits come with sleeves in them so if you have 
an older version you leave sleeve in, if you have the newer version you 
punch the sleeve out.



Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
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www.buyEUROparts.biz
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Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
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- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement



Rusty Cullens wrote:

Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.


The hardware includes the special bolts to put new links on old cars?

Do W124 and W201 take the same kit, or just the same price?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Next DTV antenna Q

2010-04-05 Thread John Reames
Yep, you are at best (ideal, no loss theoretical) going to halve the  
output power for each doubling or fraction thereof; this works out to  
3dB loss. In practice most splitters are between 3.5 and 4.0dB loss.  
What you should see is that 2 outputs will have 3.5-4.0 loss; 3 outs  
will have one that has 3.5-4.0 loss and two that are 7.0-8.0; 4 outs  
will have all 4 at 7.0-8.0 loss, 5 outs will be 3@ 7.0-8.0 and 2...@10.5-12.0 
; 6 will be 2@ 7.0-8.0 and 4@ 10.5-12.0; 7 will have 1@ 7.0-8.0 and 6@  
10.5-12.0; 8 will have all 8@ 10.5-12.0dB loss...


You are much more efficient to use a single centrally installed  
splitter and/or distribution amp with home runs than you are trying to  
split off here and there.


It's probably a good idea to put terminators on any unused outlets to  
minimize losses due to signal reflections...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 9:35, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


Thanks!

I read last night that adding a splitter cuts the strength  
significantly.  I hooked up a 4 way splitterin the attic, so I think  
the first thing to do is to take that out and connect the antenna to  
only one tv.  (that is all she has anyway.)  Then I will try  
boosting the signal, if need be.  I may try addin the second  
matching antenna, as the 75 to 100 mile stations are close to 180  
degrees apart, but of course that line is almost perpendicular to  
the 25 mile stations. Thus the question about two antennas, one  
pointed at the close stations, and one pointed toward the distant  
stations.  They would be about 90 degrees from each other.


The recommended Winegard antenna appears to be over 100 inches long,  
with 64 elements. and well over $100.  My $6.00 antenna brings in  
stations around 70 miles away, and if I eliminate the splitter, It  
will probably do better.  If I can pull up to 100 miles, it would be  
as many choices as cable, (but with many repeats)  The only reason  
it cost me that much is because I had to buy the flat to coax  
adapticator from RadioJunk.


If my makezine antenna pulls in about as well as a $100 plus top of  
the line antenna, I am impressed!  I know the one I put up in  
Northern WI pulls  in more stations than we ever got with analog tv.


I am just annoyed that radioJunk gets $6.00 for a $1.00 adapter that  
probably costs them 32 cents to make.





Yes - but ---
Ideally you want to use 1/4 wave lines and impedance matching to  
combine the
signals, but that's hard with a wide frequency range to cover. Try  
the

splitter and see how it works.

On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


Read that link I posted
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Large-DB8-HDTV-Antenna-Big-Bertha/ 
 the guy uses a splitter to make a combiner, but apparently phase  
matching

might be an issue.  I don't know.

--R


On 4/4/2010 11:07 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is it possible to use more than one DTV antenna and combine the  
signals.

 I know there are splitters, but is there a signal combiner?

OKDons talk about combining alternators got me thinking about  
combining

antenna signals.

--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).




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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Just catching up, was in CT and NY but did not get into PA.

Kevin, I assume the body is rusty?  I'll shut up now and keep reading
and probably find out that Kaleb or someone else has snapped it up...

-Max (who STILL has a project in the garage getting on SWMBO's nerve) 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 10:24 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

Max ought to buy that -- how much you want for it?  He is headed up
north soon, should stop by and tow it home.

--R

On 4/1/2010 9:49 AM, Kevin Slater wrote:
 Ok, it's Spring and I need to clean out things that are no longer in 
 use. I have a 300 TD that I've mentioned before. My intent would be 
 for someone to take it that has a need for the parts, particularly the

 head, which is a #22 head. Or maybe someone that doesn't mind a 
 project car that might take a bit of effort to put back on the road. 
 The engine runs and starts fine. The car isn't registered or 
 inspected. (I'm in south western PA near the intersection if I-79 and 
 I-76.) There is some mixing of the coolant and the transmission fluid 
 which I'm assuming is a problem in the radiator. The car has the 3rd 
 row seat and the interior is in fair shape, although the driver's seat
is a bit ripped up. It has a good fan clutch and a metal fan.
 Sunroof doesn't work and neither does the A/C although the compressor 
 isn't seized. If I don't get any interest from the list, I'll try on 
 craigslist or ebay as a parts only option and if I get no response 
 there, I'll drive it to the scrap metal guy up the road and take 
 whatever they give me there. I have a few pictures at 
 http://www.pinebluff.dyndns.org/~kslater/87-300TD which I shot a
couple of weeks ago.

 ...Kevin (soon to be without an MB)
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Ed Booher
On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,
53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

 -Max (who STILL has a project in the garage getting on SWMBO's nerve)


Don't we all?

EdB
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[MBZ] 240D Bumpers Question

2010-04-05 Thread Ed Booher
Hey Guys,

Thinking about getting some W123 Euro style bumpers. Has anyone on list
installed the Euro bumpers on a U.S. spec W123? Is it a simple bolt up and
go process? Do I need to weld in brackets that aren't there on the U.S.
version? Etc.

Also, on a related note, I found a set of front and rear for apparently $200
+ shipping. Having never needed to buy W123 bumpers before, is this an
acceptable price? Used obviously.

Thanks,

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Rick Knoble

-Max (who STILL has a project in the garage getting on SWMBO's nerve)


Heck, I've got projects older than some people on this list.

I've thought about getting Kaleb to start a procrastination help email list, 
but I've been putting it off...


Rick 



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[MBZ] W123 Euro Headlamps

2010-04-05 Thread Ed Booher
Anyone know of a place to get the W123 Euro headlamps affordably? Thinking
I'd prefer the look over the U.S. dual rounded type.

EdB
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[MBZ] W123 License Plate bolts/bracket/nuts

2010-04-05 Thread Ed Booher
Does anyone know what these license bolts on the W123 are like? Mine do not
tighten, just spin. Told they are the new type and that as such they will
need to be cut off, and a new set basically riveted into place.

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] W123 Euro Headlamps

2010-04-05 Thread Rusty Cullens
Brand new Bosch $243.75 each. Complete with all bulbs, connectors and 
instructions. Right here. Right now. What are you waiting for?




Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Ed Booher edboo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 1:56 PM
Subject: [MBZ] W123 Euro Headlamps



Anyone know of a place to get the W123 Euro headlamps affordably? Thinking
I'd prefer the look over the U.S. dual rounded type.

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Makezine D-TV antenna again.

2010-04-05 Thread Greg Fiorentino
I put a PCT powered splitter/amplifier on my cable system which solved
problems well.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Makezine D-TV antenna again.


Ganging:
http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/16bay.html

Amplifier:
Channel Master  all the way.
(I ought to get one since my Blonder Tongue Apartment Complex Amplifier
died. 
Right now I'm just using some cheap Channel Master amplified splitter inside
the 
house)

The bad stations aren't VHF, are they?
http://antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Next DTV antenna Q

2010-04-05 Thread Dieselhead
THanks!  I am going to go up today and take out the splitter.  It is 
4 out, so that is a significant loss.  I know on old BNC network 
cabling and SCSI you always had to have a terminator, but I never 
heard of it for tv until last night.  I knew someone on here would 
have answers!



Yep, you are at best (ideal, no loss theoretical) going to halve the 
output power for each doubling or fraction thereof; this works out 
to 3dB loss. In practice most splitters are between 3.5 and 4.0dB 
loss. What you should see is that 2 outputs will have 3.5-4.0 loss; 
3 outs will have one that has 3.5-4.0 loss and two that are 7.0-8.0; 
4 outs will have all 4 at 7.0-8.0 loss, 5 outs will be 3@ 7.0-8.0 
and 2...@10.5-12.0; 6 will be 2@ 7.0-8.0 and 4@ 10.5-12.0; 7 will have 
1@ 7.0-8.0 and 6@ 10.5-12.0; 8 will have all 8@ 10.5-12.0dB loss...


You are much more efficient to use a single centrally installed 
splitter and/or distribution amp with home runs than you are trying 
to split off here and there.


It's probably a good idea to put terminators on any unused outlets 
to minimize losses due to signal reflections...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 9:35, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


Thanks!

I read last night that adding a splitter cuts the strength 
significantly.  I hooked up a 4 way splitterin the attic, so I 
think the first thing to do is to take that out and connect the 
antenna to only one tv.  (that is all she has anyway.)  Then I will 
try boosting the signal, if need be.  I may try addin the second 
matching antenna, as the 75 to 100 mile stations are close to 180 
degrees apart, but of course that line is almost perpendicular to 
the 25 mile stations. Thus the question about two antennas, one 
pointed at the close stations, and one pointed toward the distant 
stations.  They would be about 90 degrees from each other.


The recommended Winegard antenna appears to be over 100 inches 
long, with 64 elements. and well over $100.  My $6.00 antenna 
brings in stations around 70 miles away, and if I eliminate the 
splitter, It will probably do better.  If I can pull up to 100 
miles, it would be as many choices as cable, (but with many 
repeats)  The only reason it cost me that much is because I had to 
buy the flat to coax adapticator from RadioJunk.


If my makezine antenna pulls in about as well as a $100 plus top of 
the line antenna, I am impressed!  I know the one I put up in 
Northern WI pulls  in more stations than we ever got with analog tv.


I am just annoyed that radioJunk gets $6.00 for a $1.00 adapter 
that probably costs them 32 cents to make.




Yes - but ---
Ideally you want to use 1/4 wave lines and impedance matching to combine the
signals, but that's hard with a wide frequency range to cover. Try the
splitter and see how it works.

On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


Read that link I posted
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Large-DB8-HDTV-Antenna-Big-Bertha/ 
the guy uses a splitter to make a combiner, but apparently phase 
matching

might be an issue.  I don't know.

--R


On 4/4/2010 11:07 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


Is it possible to use more than one DTV antenna and combine the signals.
 I know there are splitters, but is there a signal combiner?

OKDons talk about combining alternators got me thinking about combining
antenna signals.

--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).




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Re: [MBZ] W123 Euro Headlamps

2010-04-05 Thread Ed Booher
On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Brand new Bosch $243.75 each. Complete with all bulbs, connectors and
 instructions. Right here. Right now. What are you waiting for?


Money ... unfortunately both the lights and the bumpers are luxury items.
Right now I need two motor mounts and a valve cover gasket, and apparently
adjusted valves, more. But thank you for the quote, I will be setting money
aside for them.

EdB
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[MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

2010-04-05 Thread Ed Booher
Odd question, but does the W123 trunk seal so well that it won't let water
*out*?

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] W123 Euro Headlamps

2010-04-05 Thread Rusty Cullens

motor mounts $25.00 each, v/c gasket $6.35


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Ed Booher edboo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 Euro Headlamps


On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com 
wrote:



Brand new Bosch $243.75 each. Complete with all bulbs, connectors and
instructions. Right here. Right now. What are you waiting for?



Money ... unfortunately both the lights and the bumpers are luxury items.
Right now I need two motor mounts and a valve cover gasket, and apparently
adjusted valves, more. But thank you for the quote, I will be setting 
money

aside for them.

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

2010-04-05 Thread Rusty Cullens

If you have 3 feet of water in there it will come out somewhere, trust me.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Ed Booher edboo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:26 PM
Subject: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal



Odd question, but does the W123 trunk seal so well that it won't let water
*out*?

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

2010-04-05 Thread Greg Fiorentino
I wouldn't think so.  Isn't there a gap where the 2 ends of the seal don't
quite meet at the bottom?  In any case the 2 drains should provide adequate
venting for each other.  If it doesn't drain then the drains are likely
clogged.  I use a bamboo chopstick from below to clear them.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Ed Booher
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 12:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

Odd question, but does the W123 trunk seal so well that it won't let water
*out*?

EdB
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Re: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

2010-04-05 Thread Mitch Haley

Rusty Cullens wrote:

If you have 3 feet of water in there it will come out somewhere, trust me.


The passenger cabin?

Is a 123 line a 116 in that the wells behind the back wheels can fill with 
liquid to several inches deep?


Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

2010-04-05 Thread LarryT
There's a ~3/4 drain in each of those wells - with a rubber boot to keep 
stuff from the road coming in through them  They'd drain water though - 
as long as leaves, maps, gloves, etc aren't covering them.


YMMV
LarryT
91 300D
78 240D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal


Rusty Cullens wrote:
If you have 3 feet of water in there it will come out somewhere, trust 
me.


The passenger cabin?

Is a 123 line a 116 in that the wells behind the back wheels can fill with 
liquid to several inches deep?


Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread John Reames
That doesn't sound like something that he'd be able to do today...  
Maybe he can get to it tomorrow ;)


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 13:56, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:


-Max (who STILL has a project in the garage getting on SWMBO's nerve)


Heck, I've got projects older than some people on this list.

I've thought about getting Kaleb to start a procrastination help  
email list, but I've been putting it off...


Rick

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Next DTV antenna Q

2010-04-05 Thread John Reames
You don't have to have it, but it's a darn good idea.. Especially once  
you get up into sat frequencies and digital cable...


--
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jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 14:50, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

THanks!  I am going to go up today and take out the splitter.  It is  
4 out, so that is a significant loss.  I know on old BNC network  
cabling and SCSI you always had to have a terminator, but I never  
heard of it for tv until last night.  I knew someone on here would  
have answers!



Yep, you are at best (ideal, no loss theoretical) going to halve  
the output power for each doubling or fraction thereof; this works  
out to 3dB loss. In practice most splitters are between 3.5 and  
4.0dB loss. What you should see is that 2 outputs will have 3.5-4.0  
loss; 3 outs will have one that has 3.5-4.0 loss and two that are  
7.0-8.0; 4 outs will have all 4 at 7.0-8.0 loss, 5 outs will be 3@  
7.0-8.0 and 2...@10.5-12.0; 6 will be 2@ 7.0-8.0 and 4@ 10.5-12.0; 7  
will have 1@ 7.0-8.0 and 6@ 10.5-12.0; 8 will have all 8@  
10.5-12.0dB loss...


You are much more efficient to use a single centrally installed  
splitter and/or distribution amp with home runs than you are trying  
to split off here and there.


It's probably a good idea to put terminators on any unused outlets  
to minimize losses due to signal reflections...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 9:35, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


Thanks!

I read last night that adding a splitter cuts the strength  
significantly.  I hooked up a 4 way splitterin the attic, so I  
think the first thing to do is to take that out and connect the  
antenna to only one tv.  (that is all she has anyway.)  Then I  
will try boosting the signal, if need be.  I may try addin the  
second matching antenna, as the 75 to 100 mile stations are close  
to 180 degrees apart, but of course that line is almost  
perpendicular to the 25 mile stations. Thus the question about two  
antennas, one pointed at the close stations, and one pointed  
toward the distant stations.  They would be about 90 degrees from  
each other.


The recommended Winegard antenna appears to be over 100 inches  
long, with 64 elements. and well over $100.  My $6.00 antenna  
brings in stations around 70 miles away, and if I eliminate the  
splitter, It will probably do better.  If I can pull up to 100  
miles, it would be as many choices as cable, (but with many  
repeats)  The only reason it cost me that much is because I had to  
buy the flat to coax adapticator from RadioJunk.


If my makezine antenna pulls in about as well as a $100 plus top  
of the line antenna, I am impressed!  I know the one I put up in  
Northern WI pulls  in more stations than we ever got with analog tv.


I am just annoyed that radioJunk gets $6.00 for a $1.00 adapter  
that probably costs them 32 cents to make.




Yes - but ---
Ideally you want to use 1/4 wave lines and impedance matching to  
combine the
signals, but that's hard with a wide frequency range to cover.  
Try the

splitter and see how it works.

On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


Read that link I posted
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Large-DB8-HDTV-Antenna-Big-Bertha/ 
 the guy uses a splitter to make a combiner, but apparently  
phase matching

might be an issue.  I don't know.

--R


On 4/4/2010 11:07 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is it possible to use more than one DTV antenna and combine the  
signals.

I know there are splitters, but is there a signal combiner?

OKDons talk about combining alternators got me thinking about  
combining

antenna signals.

--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).




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[MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread Peter Merle
Besides the complicated boot replacement according to the book is there a
simplified solution. A friend has had two boot failures in quick succession
and up to no we have just replaced entire shaft from a scrap yard  but
supply is limited.  Does the joint get lubricated from the diff?
Peter
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[MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread WILTON
'Pulled the lift mechanism this afternoon.  Guess what?!  The little plastic 
slide I replace 'bout 10 years ago is broken; 'hasn't been used much, 
either, but I did notice that when the lift arm reaches bottom, the end of 
it moves inward (toward inside of car) putting a shear(side) force on the 
plastic slide.  Maybe I can adjust it so it doesn't go down quite so far or 
do something to it so it doesn't make that little move inward.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again


Yes, I understand that, but I don't have time/wanta mess with it right 
now. Meanwhile 4-dollar slide is on the way.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again


You should get in there to look at it while you are ordering parts, make 
sure something else isn't buggered up.


--R

On 4/2/2010 10:15 AM, WILTON wrote:
Just tried again; can't move it; only quarter inch to grip.  I can hear 
the motor running when switched DOWN and back UP a bit, and can hear the 
arm jam lightly to stop.  Just ordered little nylon slide from 
Rusty/Tom.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again


'Tried yesterday; 'could not; 'try again this morning with rubber 
gripper. 'Only half inch or so to grip, and window may be 
askew/crooked.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 5:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again



Can you grab the glass and lift while she hits the 'up' button?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread Mitch Haley

WILTON wrote:
 Maybe I can adjust it so it doesn't go down 
quite so far or do something to it so it doesn't make that little move 
inward.


I hope I'm wrong, but I believe the window stops moving when the motor stalls,
and the warpage you see is the buildup of stress as the motor hits maximum 
torque and stops. If so, it might live longer if you leave the window up an inch 
from the bottom instead of retracting it to the stop.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Harbor Freight

2010-04-05 Thread Allan Streib
Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net writes:

 I don't think HD carries the same brands as HF, all of HF stuff (with
 a few minor exceptions, and they might be counterfeit) is Chicago
 Electric or Pneumatic or something else Chicago (and maybe
 Pittsburgh?).

The name brand tools that HF sells are almost always refurbs.
Otherwise they are made-in-China products sporting American-sounding
names like Chicago Electric, Central Pneumatic, Pittsburgh, etc.

 At least I have never seen any recognizable brands in the stores I
 have shopped.  It's all Chinese stuff (and HD stuff probably is too,
 but better!).

I doubt Home Depot's Chinese stuff is remarkably better than HF's.
Several folks on this list have stated that their Pittsburgh hand
tools are quite good for the price.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Harbor Freight

2010-04-05 Thread Fmiser
 Allan Streib wrote:

 I doubt Home Depot's Chinese stuff is remarkably better than
 HF's. Several folks on this list have stated that their
 Pittsburgh hand tools are quite good for the price.

I have a 3/4 inch drive ratchet with the Pittsburgh name I
bought many years ago - when Harbor Freight was still called
Harbor Freight Salvage.  It is still doing fine. Used it last
night when I did a front end alignment on one of the W123s.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread Fmiser
 Peter Merle wrote:

 Besides the complicated boot replacement according to the book
 is there a simplified solution. A friend has had two boot
 failures in quick succession and up to no we have just
 replaced entire shaft from a scrap yard  but supply is
 limited.  Does the joint get lubricated from the diff? Peter

Nope.  The lube is sealed in by the boot.  The differential oil
lubricates the bearing surface at the inboard end of the shaft.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread John Reames
There uses to be some PoS (not point of sale!) split boot kits that  
you could get at your local McParts...


Avoid them.

Lubrication is (permanently) enclosed within the boot at assembly; it  
is precisely measured


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 16:50, Peter Merle merle.pe...@gmail.com wrote:

Besides the complicated boot replacement according to the book is  
there a
simplified solution. A friend has had two boot failures in quick  
succession

and up to no we have just replaced entire shaft from a scrap yard  but
supply is limited.  Does the joint get lubricated from the diff?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread WILTON
I agree wholeheartedly.  I don't have any problem stopping it wherever or 
anywhere between full up and full down; I probably would not even have put 
it down, but what I need is a SWMBO-proof system.  ;))


Meanwhile, it's reassembled and working.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again



WILTON wrote:
 Maybe I can adjust it so it doesn't go down quite so far or do something 
to it so it doesn't make that little move inward.


I hope I'm wrong, but I believe the window stops moving when the motor 
stalls,
and the warpage you see is the buildup of stress as the motor hits maximum 
torque and stops. If so, it might live longer if you leave the window up 
an inch from the bottom instead of retracting it to the stop.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread Rich Thomas
The cast regulator frames flex too, and might take a permanent flex, 
when torqued at the extremes.  I fixed one in the TD by stomping it 
when suspended between two 2x4s.


--R

On 4/5/2010 5:49 PM, WILTON wrote:
'Pulled the lift mechanism this afternoon.  Guess what?!  The little 
plastic slide I replace 'bout 10 years ago is broken; 'hasn't been 
used much, either, but I did notice that when the lift arm reaches 
bottom, the end of it moves inward (toward inside of car) putting a 
shear(side) force on the plastic slide.  Maybe I can adjust it so it 
doesn't go down quite so far or do something to it so it doesn't make 
that little move inward.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again


Yes, I understand that, but I don't have time/wanta mess with it 
right now. Meanwhile 4-dollar slide is on the way.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again


You should get in there to look at it while you are ordering parts, 
make sure something else isn't buggered up.


--R

On 4/2/2010 10:15 AM, WILTON wrote:
Just tried again; can't move it; only quarter inch to grip.  I can 
hear the motor running when switched DOWN and back UP a bit, and 
can hear the arm jam lightly to stop.  Just ordered little nylon 
slide from Rusty/Tom.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again


'Tried yesterday; 'could not; 'try again this morning with rubber 
gripper. 'Only half inch or so to grip, and window may be 
askew/crooked.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 5:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 rear window lift again



Can you grab the glass and lift while she hits the 'up' button?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
damn, thats a good deal I guess but hell, I need to do about 3 or 4 cars 
though.  Will you sell me enough to do 4 cars for $199 total?


Rusty Cullens wrote:
They are legit no name brand. I have sold hundreds of them with no 
issues. $199.00 versus $510.76 Lemforder.



Rusty Cullens


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I need to, I probably have 20 or 30 cars I need to finish.  Some have 
been on hold for 12 years or more, simple engine swaps. 

Im really thinking about selling off everything that is not 60x, 124, or 
140 related.


Rick Knoble wrote:

-Max (who STILL has a project in the garage getting on SWMBO's nerve)


Heck, I've got projects older than some people on this list.

I've thought about getting Kaleb to start a procrastination help email 
list, but I've been putting it off...


Rick

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Rick Knoble
I need to, I probably have 20 or 30 cars I need to finish.  Some have 
been on hold for 12 years or more, simple engine swaps. 


I have a 1974 Fiat X/19 project that has been sitting since 1978 or '79

Rick


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread WILTON

So, now you can restore it as an antique.   ;)))

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head


I need to, I probably have 20 or 30 cars I need to finish.  Some have 
been on hold for 12 years or more, simple engine swaps. 


I have a 1974 Fiat X/19 project that has been sitting since 1978 or '79

Rick


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[MBZ] This guy is on crack

2010-04-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin



 Original Message 
Subject:1972 Mercedes 220-D - $2500 (Sherman Tx)
Date:   Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:54:56 -0700 (PDT)
From:   okieb...@striplin.net
To: okieb...@striplin.net



okieb...@striplin.net has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1675532177.html to contact the
person who posted this.




1972 Mercedes 220-D

Date: 2010-04-03, 9:46PM

I have a 1972 Mercedes-Benz 220-D Diesel 4door Car. This car is 
complete

all window glass and complete interior. Car doesnt run or drive, but
motor is all there. Call 903-421-2621 or 903-814-0254.

* Location: Sherman Tx
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
  commercial interests

Original URL: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1675532177.html



/this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our
email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to:
/ http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/pt2blJWZApnbyR3csBXau4Wa0VmbD



--
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 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL,
 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread Mitch Haley

WILTON wrote:
I agree wholeheartedly.  I don't have any problem stopping it wherever 
or anywhere between full up and full down; I probably would not even 
have put it down, but what I need is a SWMBO-proof system.  ;))


Current limiting device to drop the peak torque?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread OK Don
Buy new shafts from Rusty - they were less than the used from from the local
MB salvage yard 9but more than from Kaleb) for the 124.

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 3:50 PM, Peter Merle merle.pe...@gmail.com wrote:

 Besides the complicated boot replacement according to the book is there a
 simplified solution. A friend has had two boot failures in quick
 succession
 and up to no we have just replaced entire shaft from a scrap yard  but
 supply is limited.

 --
 OK Don
 Panic! (the national past time).

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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Mitch Haley

Rick Knoble wrote:
I need to, I probably have 20 or 30 cars I need to finish.  Some have 
been on hold for 12 years or more, simple engine swaps. 


I have a 1974 Fiat X/19 project that has been sitting since 1978 or '79


Stored in a controlled environment, or is it ready to sweep up with a broom and 
brush it into the dustbin like my 1975 Civic restoration project? (it was my 
first car, and had already been rust repaired and repainted a couple of years 
before I bought it in 1984)


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread OK Don
Install micro switch to trigger jsut before bottom to disconnect the down
wire?

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 8:15 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 WILTON wrote:

 I agree wholeheartedly.  I don't have any problem stopping it wherever or
 anywhere between full up and full down; I probably would not even have put
 it down, but what I need is a SWMBO-proof system.  ;))


 Current limiting device to drop the peak torque?


 Mitch.


-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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[MBZ] OT Deer or Gator bellowing?

2010-04-05 Thread tom tomscat

 

Hi ,

 

Sorry I can't help you on the gator bellowing, but your story reminded me of my 
favorite Florida gator story.  

 

We used to visit the inlaws when they wintered near St Petersburg Florida. 
Inevitably there would be a gator story in the St Pete Times. 

 

A man was working in a warehouse that had a large overhead door entrance, with 
a windowed office at the rear of the open warehouse.  He was in the office and 
heard a rustling noise.  He looked through the office window to see an 8 foot 
alligator approaching the open door of the office.  He quickly closed the door, 
but was now trapped in the office, with the gator between him and the only 
exit.  In a bit of a panic, he phoned his best friend, who, after an extended 
laugh at his friend's plight advised him to call the Dept of Environmental 
Protection, or similar.  Sure enough DEP shortly sent out an officer who 
tranquilized the gator and safely removed him from the premises.  Afterwards, 
the officer spoke to the formerly trapped worker:  It may be some consolation 
to you to know that that gator had no intention of eating you..   But 
before you get too comfortable, you need to know that it IS mating season.

 

:)

 

Tom Schuch

SE Connecticut

1975 W115 300D

and a bunch of BMWs

 

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 23:59:17 -0400
From: archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Deer or Gator bellowing?
Message-ID: e65476f1c2ee4665b612aca035f7d...@gerry
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original
 
U.S.Fish and Wildlife have this site:
http://www.fws.gov/video/sound.htm
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
--
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
 So I was out working on the SD this afternoon, the driveway to the 
 garage is down by the marsh. At some point I hear this 
 groaning/bellowing/moaning sound coming from the marsh not too far 
 away. I heard this same sound last fall, and saw something in the marsh 
 grass rustling it, made me think it was a gator so I did not check it 
 too closely. They do come into the brackish water sometimes but don't 
 stay. Now we have lots of deer all over, and I have heard OF 
 bucksnort but don't really know what that sounds like (unless that is 
 what I heard). Given it is spring, and I would guess the deer have some 
 things on their limited minds, I wondered if it might be a buck up to 
 some of that business. I do know gators will make sort of a bellowing 
 sound, but wouldn't know that for sure either. I went and poked around 
 a bit but saw neither, so not sure what it was. The dogs are fairly 
 useless in this regard, the other day there were 4 does out not far from 
 their fence, and the dogs were asleep by the back door, though they did 
 finally get a scent or something then went crazy and the deer ran away.
 
 Anyone an expert on bucksnorts or gator bellowing?
 
 --R
  
_
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft’s powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Rick Knoble

  I have a 1974 Fiat X/19 project that has been sitting since 1978 or '79
 
 Stored in a controlled environment, or is it ready to sweep up with a broom 
 and 
 brush it into the dustbin like my 1975 Civic restoration project? (it was my 
 first car, and had already been rust repaired and repainted a couple of years 
 before I bought it in 1984)

It has been stored in an attached unheated garage (stays above freezing) since 
I have owned it. Funny thing is, the passenger side floor had a hole rusted 
through when I got it. 

Rick
  
_
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Hotmail. 
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD - final chance - #22 head

2010-04-05 Thread Rick Knoble

 So, now you can restore it as an antique.   ;)))
 
 Wilton

Sadly, with the exception of the Dino, Fiats are pretty much un-collectable.

Fiat Dino
http://www.dinospider.com/
http://www.vast.com/cars/used-for-sale-Fiat.Dino/location-unknown--unknown
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=22p=1f=5014y=1972m=1269d=2703c=13vi=71000z=46368da=-1

Fiat X/19
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_X1/9
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=22p=1f=5014y=1974m=1269d=2711c=13vi=71018z=46368da=-1

Rick
  
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread WILTON

Yeah, that's good; I may do that.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again



Install micro switch to trigger jsut before bottom to disconnect the down
wire?

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 8:15 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


WILTON wrote:

I agree wholeheartedly.  I don't have any problem stopping it wherever 
or
anywhere between full up and full down; I probably would not even have 
put

it down, but what I need is a SWMBO-proof system.  ;))



Current limiting device to drop the peak torque?


Mitch.



--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread Dieselhead
Easy to say in the US, but I believe Peter is in the land of OZ, so 
it is not so simple.


Someone on the list bought and used that tool to install new boots. 
Who was that and what is the website where you buy the tool and 
boots?I think it is dieselgiant.com but their website is down 
right now.


Peter, The boots can be replaced, but it is hard to do without the 
expander tool.  I don't  know if the expanders or boots can be found 
in OZ, but you might find them there or in hong kong or Singapore.


If you can afford the freight and any duties , Rusty does sell new 
axles with boots for about the price of a used axle from a junkyard 
in the USA.





Buy new shafts from Rusty - they were less than the used from from the local
MB salvage yard 9but more than from Kaleb) for the 124.

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 3:50 PM, Peter Merle merle.pe...@gmail.com wrote:


 Besides the complicated boot replacement according to the book is there a
 simplified solution. A friend has had two boot failures in quick
 succession
 and up to no we have just replaced entire shaft from a scrap yard  but
 supply is limited.

 --
 OK Don

  Panic! (the national past time).




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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread OK Don
Ah - forgot that.

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Easy to say in the US, but I believe Peter is in the land of OZ, so it is
 not so simple.


-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] This guy is on crack

2010-04-05 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 05 Apr 2010 19:57:00 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 I have a 1972 Mercedes-Benz 220-D Diesel 4door Car. This car is 
 complete all window glass and complete interior. Car doesnt run or
 drive, but motor is all there. Call 903-421-2621 or 903-814-0254.

He sure is!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:41:03 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ah - forgot that.
 
 On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Easy to say in the US, but I believe Peter is in the land of OZ, so
  it is not so simple.

Actually, I think he's in South Africa, not Australia.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread John Reames
Umm the motors only have two wires; the switches are polarity  
reversing switches with off holding both lines hot... If you  
interrupt either line, it will go down and not come back up.


How about wood blocks in the bottoms of the doors.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 5, 2010, at 23:16, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:


Yeah, that's good; I may do that.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again


Install micro switch to trigger jsut before bottom to disconnect  
the down

wire?

On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 8:15 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


WILTON wrote:

I agree wholeheartedly.  I don't have any problem stopping it  
wherever or
anywhere between full up and full down; I probably would not even  
have put

it down, but what I need is a SWMBO-proof system.  ;))



Current limiting device to drop the peak torque?


Mitch.



--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 6 Apr 2010 00:05:20 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:

 Umm the motors only have two wires; the switches are polarity  
 reversing switches with off holding both lines hot... If you  
 interrupt either line, it will go down and not come back up.

No, all he needs to do is wire a normally-closed microswitch in series
with the down switch. When the window hits the microswitch, it will open
and unground the motor wire, just like releasing the console switch does.


 How about wood blocks in the bottoms of the doors.

That will still have the problem of motor torque twisting things.


Craig

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[MBZ] W115 upper ball joint replacement - easy-peasy

2010-04-05 Thread David Bruckmann
Hello gang,

Just a note of encouragement for others considering the replacement of the 
upper ball joint/guide joint on a W107/114/115. This is a relatively easy job, 
maybe 2 hours per side with diddling around, 30 minutes of actual labour. Note 
that, while it is theoretically possible to replace JUST the ball joint and not 
the entire a-arm, the price difference is only about $60, and for that you get 
new upper mount bushings and you avoid the labour of trying to drill out the 
riveted-in ball joint plate etc. Not worth it, IMHO.

Here are a couple of possibly-helpful tips:

1. To aid the removal of the joint from the knuckle, I used the force of the 
spring itself in addition to a ball joint separator. I did this by inserting a 
used brake pad between the bottom of the upper arm and the subframe at the 
hinge point. This effectively means that the upper arm (instead of the shock 
absorber) serves as the limit stop for the spring. This puts the upper ball 
joint under  tension, aiding the ball joint separator in its work.

2. To aid in reassembly, I used a short piece of 2x4 and a trolley jack to 
freeze the upper ball joint from turning during the tightening.

Helpful tools:

Trolley jack
19mm combo-wrench x 2
19mm socket
Extension pipe that fits over the wrench
Ball joint separator (gap width 3/4 width, gap depth 7/8, gap throw 2)
Piece of 2x4 wood, about 8.5 long


Here are the steps for we mortals without special tools and a lift/pit:

NOTE: AT ALL TIMES LEAVE THE SHOCK ABSORBER CONNECTED, OTHERWISE YOU COULD BE 
INJURED.

REMOVAL

a) With the front wheel on the ground, jack up the car from the opposite corner 
(ie. if you are doing the driver's side, jack up the rear passenger side) until 
you can slip a sturdy object such as a brake pad between the upper arm and the 
subframe. If you ARE using a brake pad, put the lining facing DOWN on the 
subframe, since the arm itself is more of a point contact and may crumble the 
lining. Don't use anything too thick; you don't want to create too much tension.

b) Lower the rear of the car onto the ground, loosen and chock wheels etc 
appropriately, turn steering wheel all the way towards the side you are working 
on, remove key, lock steering wheel, then raise and FIRMLY SUPPORT the front on 
the side where you are working, remove wheel etc. Check that the brake pad is 
still firmly planted and is indeed serving as a limit stop.

c) Loosen but do not completely remove the locknut on the guide joint. You want 
to get it loose enough so that you can get it off once the ball joint 
separates, but not so loose that there's ANY risk of it being stripped/sheared 
off when the joint lets go.

d) Apply the ball-joint separator and tighten until CRACK! the joint separates. 
This will be loud and shocking.

e) Loosen the locknuts/bolts securing the arm to the subframe. Remove the 
locknuts, but LEAVE THE BOLTS in place.

f) For safety (in case your shock absorber has failed and cannot serve as a 
limit stop), securely position a trolley jack under the bottom arm and compress 
the assembly slightly (1/2-inch or so, plus any movement caused by mushy 
subframe mounts). This will also serve to take some tension off the upper 
arm/brake pad deal.

g) Carefully loosen the locknut to free the upper ball joint from the steering 
knuckle. MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT ALLOW THE STEERING KNUCKLE TO FALL TO ONE 
SIDE, THUS POSSIBLY DAMAGING THE LOWER BALL JOINT. You can now remove the brake 
pad if you hadn't already.

h) Carefully lower the bottom arm until the shock absorber stops the arm. It 
should not travel very far before stopping.

i) You can now use the trolley jack to support the knuckle (at the wheel hub) 
while you remove and replace the upper arm.


INSTALLATION

j) With the new arm fully secured to the subframe, insert the ball joint stub 
into the knuckle and tighten the locknut. It will tighten to a point and then 
the balljoint itself will begin to rotate. Do not fret.

k) Position a piece of 2x4 vertically between the leading edge of the upper arm 
and the wheel well stiffening ribs beside the shock absorber. With the trolley 
jack, carefully raise the lower suspension arm in order to place the 2x4 under 
reasonable pressure. The upper ball joint will be under compression via the 
knuckle from below and the 2x4 from above, thus freezing the upper ball joint 
so that you can tighten the locknut.

Voila!

D.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 rear window lift again

2010-04-05 Thread Jim Cathey

No, all he needs to do is wire a normally-closed microswitch in series
with the down switch. When the window hits the microswitch, it will 
open
and unground the motor wire, just like releasing the console switch 
does.


And, as has already been stated, permanently lock the window
in the down position.  The motor only has two wires, just like
a light bulb.  If you disconnect one wire to a light bulb, will
it light up again when you switch polarity to the other wire?
No, it will not.


How about wood blocks in the bottoms of the doors.

That will still have the problem of motor torque twisting things.


My recollection is that the down stop should be a separate stop
against the arm, and that's often out of place.  It should not be
putting side force on the slider.

The ONLY problem with the design is that the casting is a bit
too flimsy for the material it is made out of.  It warps with
time, and usually cracks when you try to bend it back.  The
motor is stall current limited, it doesn't need any more complexity.
It's pretty reliable as-is.  The switches get dirty, or the castings
break.  Those are the big problems.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] W123 Trunk Seal

2010-04-05 Thread Jim Cathey
Odd question, but does the W123 trunk seal so well that it won't let 
water

*out*?


You mean if it's a swimming pool and slopping out of the top,
or do you wonder if it has drains in the floor?  (It should.)

-- Jim



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