Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

OK, so if you are pumping a vacuum for hours, all the water should be 
gone before you recharge the system.  And the system should then be 
under pressure, so no water should get in.  So why the drier for > water?


Comes in with the refrigerant?  A deep vacuum can also be hard to get
right, and the down side of water is that it's bad for the system.
Safety net, most likely.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Auto show

[E M]

I was in UCR.  When I friend and I were editors of their monthly newsletter
"Provinz", I think we were printing around 1200-1300 copies per/month, and
had about 1000 or so members.  We rented a local marina for the monthly, and
would often get about 150+ to the meeting, making it 15-20% of members
making it out, which is about what most clubs do I'm told.  (The local Benz
club at the time had about 150 members total, and our monthly get together
was usually a dozen guys in a room drinking coffee and eating potato chips.
lol)

Last I heard, UCR now rotate their monthly meets at various restaurants, and
get about 30 or so members attending.  Not that dinner with a group of 30
like minded people is a bad thing at all.  I haven't been involved much for
about 10 years or so now.

The annual club race at Mosport still draws a good crowd, and many make the
trip up from the US to take part too.  I've gone to a few as a spectator,
and always enjoy it.  The atmosphere is similar to a Petite LeMans event.
It's an older, but fun and challenging track, if you ever get a chance to
come up and do a few laps on it.

Ed
300E

On 8 April 2010 22:48,  wrote:

> > .PCA gatherings seem to have dwindled big time too, from what a few
> > couple of
> > members have told me
> >
> Not in my Region (www.pnwr.org) and there will likely be about 900+
> registrants at this year's Porsche Parade at the Pheasant Run Resort in St.
> Charles
> Illinois.
>
> RLE
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] what an Iowa winter can do to a '77 240D

[Craig McCluskey]

On Thu, 8 Apr 2010 19:36:41 -0500 Wonko the Sane 
wrote:

> Rear bumper, fortunately, dropped off as I backed into the garage.
> 
> Exhaust dropped 10 miles south of the house, on the way to a meeting.
> Was able to drive it home w/out dropping steel on the highway.
> 
> Sigh.

Indeed. Now time for some repairs. Perhaps Kaleb can help with some
not-so-rusty parts.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[OK Don]

I thought about that, and considered exopy, but settled for locktite. We'll
see what happens, and perhaps be prepared for the next time it comes loose.
Son is instructed to watch it closely ---  we'll see.

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 9:14 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

>
> At a guess, I would suspect that the bushing would cause the bolt to
> unscrew much more readily than the bearing system, and that the loose bolt
> will eat the front cover pretty fast.
>
> Peter
>
> --
> OK Don
> Panic! (the national past time).
>
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Re: [MBZ] what an Iowa winter can do to a '77 240D

[OK Don]

It should be faster now, with less weight and back pressure ---

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 7:36 PM, Wonko the Sane  wrote:

> Rear bumper, fortunately, dropped off as I backed into the garage.
>
> Exhaust dropped 10 miles south of the house, on the way to a meeting. Was
> able to drive it home w/out dropping steel on the highway.
>
> Sigh.


-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Dieselhead]

I tried the press and whacking the LCA but no luck.

I already notice a great improvement from the rear subframe bushings. 
After that, it became evident the front end was part of the problem. 
I knew the ball joints needed changing, but last week I found the 
steering idler arm was sloppy.  It is amazing how new bushings in the 
idler arm tighten up the feel of a car.  This will be really nice 
after I finish and get an alignment done.  Should drive like a race 
car then.


Does anyone know the P/N for the dust covers that are supposed to go 
over the struts?  I want to see if the stealer has any in the morning.



This morning I figured out the SDL needs the steering idler bushing 
too!  It looks like it needs ball joints too, so I guess I will 
tackle that in a week or two.  I want to check the front subframe 
bushings in it also, because the rear ones were not bad.  It does 
ride better with the new bushings.  The 126 is probably the easiest 
bushings I have done, of 123, 124 and 126.  It helps to have 
southern, (no salt) cars to work on.  The 123 spent 12 or 15 years in 
the salt.




You will be amazed at the difference when you get the alignment done 
-- it's like a whole new car.


My "new" 300D was terribly noisy on the highway, sounded like a bad 
muffler.  All new bits up front and a new steering box and I have a 
new car -- very quite (except all the noise from the rear suspension 
now), no drift, no pulling, no vibration.


Worth every bit of the work to get there, including the steering box.

Using a press to get the ball joint out works just fine IF you have 
the correct sleeve to press on the outer edge.  A couple bangs on 
the end of the control arm once you get some pressure on it will 
start it moving, and then it's easy.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Rich Thomas]

And shoes for industry, compadre!

--R

On 4/8/2010 10:07 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:


Just food for thought, don't have the numbers in front of me though.

Walt
   



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Rich Thomas]

OK, so if you are pumping a vacuum for hours, all the water should be 
gone before you recharge the system.  And the system should then be 
under pressure, so no water should get in.  So why the drier for water?


--R (not arguing, learning)

On 4/8/2010 9:22 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
I don't know the answer to your question, whether it is for drying 
water or


'twas a rhetorical question.  I know the answer, it's water that
the drier is drying.  I did a _lot_ of reading before I tackled
the first system, on the Ebola Fishtank.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/efair.html

Water is bad, in refrigerant systems that have chlorine or
fluorine in them.  (I.e., R12 or R134a.)  In pure hydrocarbon
systems, not so bad.  Not good, but not so bad.  In retrofits
it's still a problem, because there is chlorine residue still
around that can combine with the water into acid.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] what an Iowa winter can do to a '77 240D

[Rich Thomas]

How's Joe Biden working out for you?  Is he your kind of intellectual?

--R

On 4/8/2010 8:36 PM, Wonko the Sane wrote:

Rear bumper, fortunately, dropped off as I backed into the garage.

Exhaust dropped 10 miles south of the house, on the way to a meeting. Was
able to drive it home w/out dropping steel on the highway.

Sigh.

   


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Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Rich Thomas]

When I redid the 79 TD's front suspension (ball joint failed, wheel 
broke) I took the knuckle to a Benz shop to put in the new one I 
brought, and an old mech put it in a vise, picked up a BFH, put a ball 
peen hammer on the bj, and proceeded to beat on BPH until the old broken 
bj popped out.  Elegant and quick.  They used the proper MB tool to 
press in the new bj (I got from Rusty), the collar of which proceeded to 
break, they went and got a Lemforder and pressed it in no problem.  They 
told me they had broken a $600 MB press tool on off-brand bj's in the 
past, was lucky that one did not break the tool.


--R

On 4/8/2010 8:04 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
So are you supposed to beat the joint out and press them back in?  I 
thought you used the press to press them out?


Dieselhead wrote:
Partial success so far.  I have one out.  I sprayed it with 
penetrating oil and beat on it with a 2 lb blacksmith cross-pein 
hammer.  After a lot of beating, the cap popped off and the ball went 
out the bottom.  I thought i was going to have trouble at that point. 
But a few more whacks and it moved.


I just came in to check that my memory was right and the notch goes 
in.  Found the email from Peter (thanks) so I am off to press in the 
first one.  I have the rental press form O'reilley's and a new one 
from HF that was  on sale and I used the 20% off coupon, so it was $32.


Thanks everyone for the info!


You will need an adapter to push the old one out, otherwise the HF 
kit works fine.  Make sure you have a 7mm (yes, 7mm) allen key to 
hold the strut rod while unscrewing the nut.  This is NOT in the 
normal assortments, although my cheap set has one for some reason.


Do not use heat, you run the risk of changing the shape or temper of 
the control arm, and neither distortion nor cracks around the ball 
joint are desirable.  The HF tool will provide adequate pressure, 
although some vigorous tapping on the control arm to "start" it out 
is sometimes necessary.


You can buy the supplementary adapter kit that will have the correct 
sleeve to push the old one out, too, which is probably the way to go.


They are directional -- the new one must go in with the notch 
pointing toward the centerline of the car.  Take a peek at the base 
of the old one before you take it out.


Not a bad job.  Make sure you have the control arm supported by a 
jack stand before you take the strut out, put new jounce bumper and 
boot on it if they are worn, and check the condition of the upper 
mount, this is a good time to swap it out.
If you go the route of a new control arm, you MUST install the 
eccentric bolts into the exact same spot and then MUST have a 
complete front end alignment, there no way it's gonna be more than 
sorta close to correct.

Peter


-Original Message-

From: Frederick W Moir 
Sent: Mar 27, 2010 10:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

Hi, DH.
I've replaced both on a 201 with the HF kit plus a plumbing end cap 
that

just happened to have the right chamfer inside.
I have a photo of the setup if you would like it?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
85 300TD
87 190DT Bent
87 190DT Blue
Diesel preferred.

On 3/27/2010 7:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
 Jim, Thanks.  That is helpful.  But I see you used the flame 
wrench to
 get the ball joint loose.  I don't have a flame wrench available. 
I'd
 sure use it if I had it!  Not having the torch, I am reluctant to 
try

 this myself.

 So has anyone changed the 124 (or 201)ball joints without the torch
 and without the official MB tools?
  (and without the spring compresser)


 Can this [124] be done with the HF ball joint kit, or are
 there modifications that require a flame wrench?


 I think it's pretty much the same as the 201.  See:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190d.html#30Aug2008

 The base HF kit works, but you need some pipe scraps too.
 I did a bit of welding on the pipe scraps, but hose clamps
 might work just as well.

 -- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Auto show

[RELNGSON]

> .PCA gatherings seem to have dwindled big time too, from what a few 
> couple of
> members have told me
> 
Not in my Region (www.pnwr.org) and there will likely be about 900+ 
registrants at this year's Porsche Parade at the Pheasant Run Resort in St. 
Charles 
Illinois.

RLE
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Peter Frederick]

I would beg to differ here.  Chlorine in the upper atmosphere acts as  
a catalyst to covert ozone to diatomic oxygen, this is  a know fact,  
not a supposition.  The main mechanism for transporting free chlorine  
into the upper atmosphere (where it is not found in nature) is  
chlorinated hydrocabons, specifically the chloro-fluoro types used as  
refridgerants.  UV at high altitudes breaks down the freon into free  
chlorine, and that removes ozone.


This was discovered in the early 1970s, and the amount of freon (and  
hence chlorine) has grown tremendously.  At the peak of  
concentration, there was the "ozone hole" over Antarctica, and UV  
levels in Australia have gotten high enough to cause skin cancer in  
most pig farming operations, to the point where they had to be roofed  
entirely.  Since the ban on R12 (and the rest of the chlorine  
containing refirigeratants) the ozone concentration has been slowly  
recovering as the chlorine concentration goes down.


This is not a "government conspiracy", it's survival of life on the  
planet, plain and simple.   R12 should have been removed from auto  
use in the 70's when the problem became known, not 20 years later.


At any rate, R134a works just fine in a system designed for it, and  
it works well enough in all the cars I've converted once I got the  
system in good shape.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Peter Frederick]

At a guess, I would suspect that the bushing would cause the bolt to  
unscrew much more readily than the bearing system, and that the loose  
bolt will eat the front cover pretty fast.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Walt Zarnoch]

Not that I don't have a care for the environment, but a volcano errupting
does more harm to the ozone layer and CO2/particulate levels than a few
years of human activity... are we going to regulate volcano's next?

Just food for thought, don't have the numbers in front of me though.

Walt

On Apr 8, 2010 9:42 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:

then the government got involved and screwed it all up.

Jim Cathey wrote:

> >>
> >> If I convert from 134a to Freeze12,  how many parts of the system will I
> have to flush with fl...
>
> > 
> >
> >
> > No virus found in t...
>
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database:
> 271.1.1/2797 - Release Date: 04/07...
>


-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 30...

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[MBZ] what an Iowa winter can do to a '77 240D

[Wonko the Sane]

Rear bumper, fortunately, dropped off as I backed into the garage.

Exhaust dropped 10 miles south of the house, on the way to a meeting. Was
able to drive it home w/out dropping steel on the highway.

Sigh.

-- 
When the gods wish to punish us, they answer our prayers. -- Oscar Wilde
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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[OK Don]

It has a bushing, and a proportionaly smaller (in width) rocker arm. Now
that I think about it, perhaps the bushing is MORE reliable than the ball
bearing? Then why did MB change it?

When we got this car, the rocker was tilted, so I just assumed (there it is
again) that it needed a new bearing. Got one from Rusty, tried to install
it, and foung that A) the center bolt was finger loose and un-screwing from
the housing, and B) the arm had a bushing and isn't big enough for the
bearing. We cleaned everything, oiled the bushing, and assembled it with
locktite.

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 1:45 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> So '84 didn't have a bearing? Maybe that explains why mine broke...
>
> -Curt
>
> --
> OK Don
> Panic! (the national past time).
>
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Im going to head out tomorrow and see if I can find any of this 70/30 
fuel anywhere and give it a try in my unconverted 90 300D.  If not, I 
will see if I can find any freeze 12 locally. 


Jim Cathey wrote:
Or I guess you could use one of those side clamp deals that pokes a 
hole in the side of the can for charging.


That's what I started with.  I later made a better one out
of a camp stove, hose, and a fitting from some MB.

-- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2797 - Release Date: 04/07/10 13:32:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

then the government got involved and screwed it all up.

Jim Cathey wrote:
If I convert from 134a to Freeze12,  how many parts of the system 
will I have to flush with flushing fluid?


All of it?  Or none of it, if that's the one that has R134a in it.


I would use R-12 oil, I suppose.


That's my preference.


I have a new compressor to install.  How much oil should I add to it?


The MB manual has a chart, for every 'dry' component listed.

The MB disc says 180 c.c. (about 6 ounces), and how much to the other 
components?


See chart.

Also, does it matter  in which port you put the oil in the 
compressor?  The instructions mention a switch cavity plug held in by 
a retainer ring.  Since


I put it in both, if possible.

I've been running R-134a for several years down here in the heat of 
Florida, and no matter how thoroughly I flush the sytem, vacuum it 
correctly, and stop all leaks; it still doesn't do a very good job of 
cooling.


Yep.  Even R12's probably have difficulty.  (Note that designed-for-R134a
systems should have no problems, it's these retrofits that don't cut it.)

The hydrocarbon retrofits can even beat R12, but in high ambient 
temperatures

they can cut out, because the critical temperature of the refrigerant gas
is a bit less than R12's.

R12 was a miracle refrigerant, it did _everything_ well, and was cheap.

-- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2797 - Release Date: 04/07/10 13:32:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Peter Frederick]

You will be amazed at the difference when you get the alignment done  
-- it's like a whole new car.


My "new" 300D was terribly noisy on the highway, sounded like a bad  
muffler.  All new bits up front and a new steering box and I have a  
new car -- very quite (except all the noise from the rear suspension  
now), no drift, no pulling, no vibration.


Worth every bit of the work to get there, including the steering box.

Using a press to get the ball joint out works just fine IF you have  
the correct sleeve to press on the outer edge.  A couple bangs on the  
end of the control arm once you get some pressure on it will start it  
moving, and then it's easy.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Dieselhead]

I tried to press it out, and got nowhere.  Cathey and someone else 
said the beat them out with a hammer.  I will try the press again on 
the other one.

Got the new one in on the right.

Then I put the new bushing in the steering idler arm.

Going out to tear down the left side next.




It works much better to press them out, too.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Another Oil Thread

[OK Don]

Or inept stocking/management ot one store --

(Just because you're paranoid, doesn't mean they're not out to get you. . .)

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 8:09 AM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

> Or both.
>
> --R (Paranoia strikes deep, into your heart it can creep...)
>
>
> On 4/8/2010 8:58 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
> wrote:
>
>> I'm beginning to think there's either a conspiracy OR a very high
>> concentration of diesel drivers in Mt. P
>>
>> -Max
>
>
>

-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

I don't know the answer to your question, whether it is for drying 
water or


'twas a rhetorical question.  I know the answer, it's water that
the drier is drying.  I did a _lot_ of reading before I tackled
the first system, on the Ebola Fishtank.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/efair.html

Water is bad, in refrigerant systems that have chlorine or
fluorine in them.  (I.e., R12 or R134a.)  In pure hydrocarbon
systems, not so bad.  Not good, but not so bad.  In retrofits
it's still a problem, because there is chlorine residue still
around that can combine with the water into acid.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

Or I guess you could use one of those side clamp deals that pokes a 
hole in the side of the can for charging.


That's what I started with.  I later made a better one out
of a camp stove, hose, and a fitting from some MB.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

If I convert from 134a to Freeze12,  how many parts of the system will 
I have to flush with flushing fluid?


All of it?  Or none of it, if that's the one that has R134a in it.


I would use R-12 oil, I suppose.


That's my preference.


I have a new compressor to install.  How much oil should I add to it?


The MB manual has a chart, for every 'dry' component listed.

The MB disc says 180 c.c. (about 6 ounces), and how much to the other 
components?


See chart.

Also, does it matter  in which port you put the oil in the compressor? 
 The instructions mention a switch cavity plug held in by a retainer 
ring.  Since


I put it in both, if possible.

I've been running R-134a for several years down here in the heat of 
Florida, and no matter how thoroughly I flush the sytem, vacuum it 
correctly, and stop all leaks; it still doesn't do a very good job of 
cooling.


Yep.  Even R12's probably have difficulty.  (Note that 
designed-for-R134a
systems should have no problems, it's these retrofits that don't cut 
it.)


The hydrocarbon retrofits can even beat R12, but in high ambient 
temperatures
they can cut out, because the critical temperature of the refrigerant 
gas

is a bit less than R12's.

R12 was a miracle refrigerant, it did _everything_ well, and was cheap.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Peter Frederick]

It works much better to press them out, too.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

So are you supposed to beat the joint out and press them back in?  I 
thought you used the press to press them out?


Dieselhead wrote:
Partial success so far.  I have one out.  I sprayed it with 
penetrating oil and beat on it with a 2 lb blacksmith cross-pein 
hammer.  After a lot of beating, the cap popped off and the ball went 
out the bottom.  I thought i was going to have trouble at that point. 
But a few more whacks and it moved.


I just came in to check that my memory was right and the notch goes 
in.  Found the email from Peter (thanks) so I am off to press in the 
first one.  I have the rental press form O'reilley's and a new one 
from HF that was  on sale and I used the 20% off coupon, so it was $32.


Thanks everyone for the info!


You will need an adapter to push the old one out, otherwise the HF 
kit works fine.  Make sure you have a 7mm (yes, 7mm) allen key to 
hold the strut rod while unscrewing the nut.  This is NOT in the 
normal assortments, although my cheap set has one for some reason.


Do not use heat, you run the risk of changing the shape or temper of 
the control arm, and neither distortion nor cracks around the ball 
joint are desirable.  The HF tool will provide adequate pressure, 
although some vigorous tapping on the control arm to "start" it out 
is sometimes necessary.


You can buy the supplementary adapter kit that will have the correct 
sleeve to push the old one out, too, which is probably the way to go.


They are directional -- the new one must go in with the notch 
pointing toward the centerline of the car.  Take a peek at the base 
of the old one before you take it out.


Not a bad job.  Make sure you have the control arm supported by a 
jack stand before you take the strut out, put new jounce bumper and 
boot on it if they are worn, and check the condition of the upper 
mount, this is a good time to swap it out.
If you go the route of a new control arm, you MUST install the 
eccentric bolts into the exact same spot and then MUST have a 
complete front end alignment, there no way it's gonna be more than 
sorta close to correct.

Peter


-Original Message-

From: Frederick W Moir 
Sent: Mar 27, 2010 10:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

Hi, DH.
I've replaced both on a 201 with the HF kit plus a plumbing end cap 
that

just happened to have the right chamfer inside.
I have a photo of the setup if you would like it?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
85 300TD
87 190DT Bent
87 190DT Blue
Diesel preferred.

On 3/27/2010 7:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
 Jim, Thanks.  That is helpful.  But I see you used the flame 
wrench to

 get the ball joint loose.  I don't have a flame wrench available. I'd
 sure use it if I had it!  Not having the torch, I am reluctant to try
 this myself.

 So has anyone changed the 124 (or 201)ball joints without the torch
 and without the official MB tools?
  (and without the spring compresser)


 Can this [124] be done with the HF ball joint kit, or are
 there modifications that require a flame wrench?


 I think it's pretty much the same as the 201.  See:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190d.html#30Aug2008

 The base HF kit works, but you need some pipe scraps too.
 I did a bit of welding on the pipe scraps, but hose clamps
 might work just as well.

 -- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2797 - Release Date: 04/07/10 13:32:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 

Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

[Dieselhead]

Partial success so far.  I have one out.  I sprayed it with 
penetrating oil and beat on it with a 2 lb blacksmith cross-pein 
hammer.  After a lot of beating, the cap popped off and the ball went 
out the bottom.  I thought i was going to have trouble at that point. 
But a few more whacks and it moved.


I just came in to check that my memory was right and the notch goes 
in.  Found the email from Peter (thanks) so I am off to press in the 
first one.  I have the rental press form O'reilley's and a new one 
from HF that was  on sale and I used the 20% off coupon, so it was 
$32.


Thanks everyone for the info!


You will need an adapter to push the old one out, otherwise the HF 
kit works fine.  Make sure you have a 7mm (yes, 7mm) allen key to 
hold the strut rod while unscrewing the nut.  This is NOT in the 
normal assortments, although my cheap set has one for some reason.


Do not use heat, you run the risk of changing the shape or temper of 
the control arm, and neither distortion nor cracks around the ball 
joint are desirable.  The HF tool will provide adequate pressure, 
although some vigorous tapping on the control arm to "start" it out 
is sometimes necessary.


You can buy the supplementary adapter kit that will have the correct 
sleeve to push the old one out, too, which is probably the way to go.


They are directional -- the new one must go in with the notch 
pointing toward the centerline of the car.  Take a peek at the base 
of the old one before you take it out.


Not a bad job.  Make sure you have the control arm supported by a 
jack stand before you take the strut out, put new jounce bumper and 
boot on it if they are worn, and check the condition of the upper 
mount, this is a good time to swap it out. 

If you go the route of a new control arm, you MUST install the 
eccentric bolts into the exact same spot and then MUST have a 
complete front end alignment, there no way it's gonna be more than 
sorta close to correct. 


Peter


-Original Message-

From: Frederick W Moir 
Sent: Mar 27, 2010 10:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.

Hi, DH.
I've replaced both on a 201 with the HF kit plus a plumbing end cap that
just happened to have the right chamfer inside.
I have a photo of the setup if you would like it?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
85 300TD
87 190DT Bent
87 190DT Blue
Diesel preferred.

On 3/27/2010 7:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Jim, Thanks.  That is helpful.  But I see you used the flame wrench to
 get the ball joint loose.  I don't have a flame wrench available. I'd
 sure use it if I had it!  Not having the torch, I am reluctant to try
 this myself.

 So has anyone changed the 124 (or 201)ball joints without the torch
 and without the official MB tools?
  (and without the spring compresser)


 Can this [124] be done with the HF ball joint kit, or are
 there modifications that require a flame wrench?


 I think it's pretty much the same as the 201.  See:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190d.html#30Aug2008

 The base HF kit works, but you need some pipe scraps too.
 I did a bit of welding on the pipe scraps, but hose clamps
 might work just as well.

 -- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

John, et al.
If only it were under my control. I could truly say:- "yes dear, I'm 
sorry I forgot!"

Thanks for the chuckle.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

On 4/8/2010 6:59 PM, John Reames wrote:
Ah... CRS can be good... You just need to tune it a bit so the S thy 
you CR is the BS that drives you BSC.

John W Reames


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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[John Reames]

Ah... CRS can be good... You just need to tune it a bit so the S thy  
you CR is the BS that drives you BSC.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 8, 2010, at 18:02, Frederick W Moir   
wrote:



John.
So I did.
CRS is interfering with my ability to remember and to be able to  
talk coherently.

USED IP needed for OM602.961, must be cheap like me!
Better?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

On 4/8/2010 5:39 PM, John Reames wrote:
Yah, I suppose not paying is an issue... But you DID ask if anyone  
had one for sale...

John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net


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Re: [MBZ] 300TD engine/ motor swap question

[andrew strasfogel]

Year?  Color inside and out?  Mileage?

On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 8:10 AM, Rolf  wrote:

> 84 and up have the tach sensor on the intermediary plate. You will need to
> swap the plate from the 85 to the new engine as well if its 83 and less.
>
> I just so happen to be selling my wagon, planned on asking $1200 for it.
> We've had it 3? years, it runs and drives. Engine runs well, about 250k
> miles on it, needs a rear main seal. Front end was collided into before I
> purchased and the PO slapped on some white (its a blue wagon) fenders and
> hood. The front end suspension needs to be replaced (LCA bushings, it does
> drive straight with an alignment). If your interested I would let it go for
> $1000. New ATE brake rotors upfront and hydraulic spheres. SLS works well.
> Would have no problems driving it any where south and mid atlantic, we have
> driven it from Atlanta to Charlotte many times.
>
> -Rolf
>
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>
>> I need to find a replacement 300TD motor for my 1985 300td, Will ONLY a
>> 1985
>> model year motor fit, or will any from a 1982-85 300TD work/fit equally
>> well?  How did the engines differ from year to year, if at all?  I know
>> that
>> the trannies evolved, but am unclear about whether/how the engines evolved
>> over that 4 model-year period.
>>
>> TIhanks in advance...
>>
>> Andrew
>> 1983 300td,
>> 1985 300TD
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>
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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

John.
So I did.
CRS is interfering with my ability to remember and to be able to talk 
coherently.

USED IP needed for OM602.961, must be cheap like me!
Better?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

On 4/8/2010 5:39 PM, John Reames wrote:
Yah, I suppose not paying is an issue... But you DID ask if anyone had 
one for sale...

John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net


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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[John Reames]

Yah, I suppose not paying is an issue... But you DID ask if anyone had  
one for sale...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 8, 2010, at 17:01, Frederick W Moir   
wrote:



John.
Yup! But he wants to be paid. Y'see the problem.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/8/2010 4:32 PM, John Reames wrote:

Isn't rusty running a sale on them?

--
John W Reames


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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

John.
Yup! But he wants to be paid. Y'see the problem.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/8/2010 4:32 PM, John Reames wrote:

Isn't rusty running a sale on them?

--
John W Reames


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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

Max, et al.
When I picked up this car on a very frosty morning it would only run on 
4 cyls. I had a hell of a time starting it with only 2 extant glow plugs.
After I got it home the reason for 4 out of 5 was that the delivery 
valve for #1 was finger tight. (finger loose?). after replacing the 
seals on all 5, it ran quite well, but always had this "pulse" at idle. 
Not quite smooth ignition.
So far I have done a complete valve job, (#3 was a little low), replaced 
the injectors with those from "Bent", replaced the delivery valve seals, 
o-rings and springs. Checked compression. checked out the turbo, checked 
chain stretch, ~one degree, changed the oil, diesel purged, etc, ad 
nauseam. Next!?

Fred Moir
Lynn MA


On 4/8/2010 4:20 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Fred,

My NA 190D, 2.2 liter, had a rough idle which I also suspected IP after
rebuilding the delivery  valves and having the injectors
tested/balanced.  I finally took it to local indie, he looked at it for
about 5 seconds and advised me to change the motor mounts, which cured
the problem.  I used the aftermarket cheapies, the real-deal mounts may
do an even better job? Just a thought, my original mounts looked fine
and had not collapsed, probably had about 104k miles on them.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Frederick W Moir
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 3:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

Brian, et al
Anyone have a 602.961 IP for sale? I'm trying to get my 190DT to run
smoothly and I'm coming to the conclusion that it's the IP.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/7/2010 1:01 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
   

Geez wish I remembered to bring some used parts up with me!

Brian
 

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Re: [MBZ] PCA day at the NY Auto Show

[E M]

I didn't even bother attending this years Toronto Auto Show.  A couple of
friends said Porsche was represented by one of our dealers, no "factory"
represention.  Didn't want to spring for the cost of displaying cars I
guess, unless they did some deal with the dealer which no one could figure
out.

PCA gatherings seem to have dwindled big time too, from what a few couple of
members have told me.

Oh well, all things have their ups and downs I guess.

Ed
300E

On 8 April 2010 16:25,  wrote:

> I can't imagine MBUSA doing something like this.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fm3uVGHWnY
>
> RLE
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Re: [MBZ] PCA day at the NY Auto Show

[WILTON]

Photographers trying to give me vertigo again.  So I guess I don't care to 
watch it, though I wanted to.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: 

To: 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:25 PM
Subject: [MBZ] PCA day at the NY Auto Show



I can't imagine MBUSA doing something like this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fm3uVGHWnY

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] crazy isp

[Mitch Haley]

R A Bennell wrote:
I have no idea why my isp has blocked Kaleb but the only way I have 
figured out to get back on to the forums is to use a gmail address 
instead so here I am as wpg3...@gmail.com.


Cisco put out a server rating of 'poor' on the server that sends out the list 
traffic.


Hey, look at this, it's been upgraded to 'neutral'. Now watch the list traffic 
start coming through on your regular email the next time your server downloads 
the ratings list.


http://www.senderbase.org/senderbase_queries/detailip?search_string=69.50.208.24

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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[John Reames]

Isn't rusty running a sale on them?

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 8, 2010, at 15:58, Frederick W Moir   
wrote:



Brian, et al
Anyone have a 602.961 IP for sale? I'm trying to get my 190DT to run  
smoothly and I'm coming to the conclusion that it's the IP.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/7/2010 1:01 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Geez wish I remembered to bring some used parts up with me!

Brian


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[MBZ] PCA day at the NY Auto Show

[RELNGSON]

I can't imagine MBUSA doing something like this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fm3uVGHWnY

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[archer]

E.F.Products "Auto Air Conditioner Clean and Flush...for R-12 to 134a 
Retrofits."  From Autozone.

Gerry

From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310"

What are you using to flush?
-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 12:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

If I convert from 134a to Freeze12,  how many parts of the system will I
have to flush with flushing fluid?  I would use R-12 oil, I suppose.  I
have a new compressor to install.  How much oil should I add to it?  The
MB disc says 180 c.c. (about 6 ounces), and how much to the other
components?
Also, does it matter  in which port you put the oil in the compressor?
The instructions mention a switch cavity plug held in by a retainer
ring.  Since there was no switch in this port on the old compressor, is
this a "no switch" system?
I've been running R-134a for several years down here in the heat of
Florida, and no matter how thoroughly I flush the sytem, vacuum it
correctly, and stop all leaks; it still doesn't do a very good job of
cooling.
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

From: "John Reames" 

Again by regulation, you should have a recovery machine on hand
anytime you touch a system, as the service valves might develop an
unstoppable leak.  Those regulations require that systems with leaks
should be repaired, or in the alternative, that all refrigerant be
recovered from the system.
-j.

--
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jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 7, 2010, at 21:00, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:


That is true, by regulation.  However, by practical experience, it
doesn't matter much on a 124, because once the evap starts to leak,
you will be adding refrigerant, not having someone pump it out.
Experienced refr. guys mixed it for years.  I am not advocating
disregard for regs, but passing on field experience.  YMMV

Neither the EPA or tree huggers are going to put a new evap in
anyone's 124.  It is just a shame that MB installs the evap, then
builds the car around it.



If you are EPA licensed then you will know that you aren't allowed
by federal regulation to mix refrigerants, including R12 and
Freeze12.  And I don't think anywhere will sell you
Freeze12/Envirosafe/etc. without the license any more.

That said, if you want to go the R12-equivalent route then you may
as well get licensed anyway, because no one will ever work on your
system - you'll contaminate their recovery machine.  ...And once you



have the license you can buy real R12 to top off, though of course
you have to find it, and it's at least 4-5x the cost of Freeze12.

For all the bluster A/C work really isn't that hard, but keeping up
with the EPA is a full-time job.

-Tim


--- Original Message ---
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: 10-04-07, 17:34:30
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

That is MY preferred way to go.  We used it in commercial refr. for



years with absolutely NO problems related to the gas.  YOu don't
have to remove the old R12.  Just add some freeze 12 to it.  If you



have
R12 gauges, it is easy.  If not, you might consider buying the HF
134
gauge set and use it only for R12 without the 134a adapters..


>Anyone familiar with this stuff?  Except for the recovery of the
old
>R12 using a EPA approved machine, it seems fairly simple to
>convert
>- add a couple of unique fittings and add the Freeze12.
>
>http://freeze-12.com/
>
>Thx
>LarryT
>'91 300D
>
>OilAnalysis Time?
>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>www.youroil.net
>
>
>
>--
>From: "LarryT" 
>Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM

> >To: 
> >Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
> >
> >>Hi Gang -
> >>My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.
> >>Of course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F

>>heat - but I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I
>>need to add some...
>>
>>The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on



>>changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?
>>
>>Comments?
>>
>>LarryT
>>91 300D
>>W124



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Ch

Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Fred,

My NA 190D, 2.2 liter, had a rough idle which I also suspected IP after
rebuilding the delivery  valves and having the injectors
tested/balanced.  I finally took it to local indie, he looked at it for
about 5 seconds and advised me to change the motor mounts, which cured
the problem.  I used the aftermarket cheapies, the real-deal mounts may
do an even better job? Just a thought, my original mounts looked fine
and had not collapsed, probably had about 104k miles on them.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Frederick W Moir
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 3:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

Brian, et al
Anyone have a 602.961 IP for sale? I'm trying to get my 190DT to run
smoothly and I'm coming to the conclusion that it's the IP.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/7/2010 1:01 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
> Geez wish I remembered to bring some used parts up with me!
>
> Brian

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[MBZ] crazy isp

[R A Bennell]

I have no idea why my isp has blocked Kaleb but the only way I have 
figured out to get back on to the forums is to use a gmail address 
instead so here I am as wpg3...@gmail.com.


Randy in Winnipeg

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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

Brian, et al
Anyone have a 602.961 IP for sale? I'm trying to get my 190DT to run 
smoothly and I'm coming to the conclusion that it's the IP.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/7/2010 1:01 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Geez wish I remembered to bring some used parts up with me!

Brian


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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

Curt, OK Don, et al.
I also have the bearing assy. that came with this early  '84 front 
cover. A bit notchy but whole.
Also have the matching early 601 head, new valves/guides/seals etc. Will 
not fit later '84 or '85 601.
Looks the same, but, different head, different gasket. (Ask me how I 
found that out!) Up to engine #'s 10-001766 (manual) or 12-004599 (auto).

Rusty has all the parts that you will ever need.
TMI right?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel is in my blood!
(And you can see where most of it gets in!)

On 4/8/2010 2:45 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

So '84 didn't have a bearing? Maybe that explains why mine broke...

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[John Reames]

Yeah. Pag oils are only used in automotive refrigeration; anything  
else seems to use POE oils...


If you retrofit, use POE oil and you can run pretty much any  
refrigerant in it that you want.


Poe oil is much less hygroscopic than pag, and it has the advantage of  
not breaking down into acids when used with a hcfc or cfc... (or in a  
system with chloride

Deposits from a previous hcfc or cfc installation...)



--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 8, 2010, at 10:57, Jim Cathey  wrote:

Actually it is (or was) legal to convert from 134a to a non-SNAP  
refrigerant; it is not legal to convert directly from a CFC or HCFC  
based refrigerant to a non-SNAP refrigerant, nor is it legal to use  
a "sham" conversion.


That is a bit of skulduggery aimed at getting your system converted
to oils that are ONLY useful with R134a.  The oil conversion is the
hard part, so once they've trapped you into R134a you'll be unhappy
until you dump the car and get a newer one, or at least until the
crappy oil destroys the AC system in its entirety and taking you out
of the AC gene pool.  Really.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D Transmission issue

[WILTON]

The idle knob is ONLY that - pulls/releases the same linkage that the 
accelerator operates - does nothing whatsoever to change air/fuel ratio any 
different than whatever the foot accelerator does - controls amt. of fuel to 
the engine.  The idle knob merely holds some "accelerator" on/down; same as 
light foot pressure held on the accelerator.  Again, you need to hold the 
accelerator down slightly when you turn the idle knob to facilitate ease of 
turning it.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Transmission issue



Sounds like you've got another problem.  The knob you turned only
increases the idle speed by pulling on the same linkage that the
accelerator throttle moves, it does nothing to affect starting or
air/fuel ratios, I believe.

You may have an air leak allowing the injection pump to lose its prime,
and/or you may have flaky injector or two, or some other problem.  Does
the manual priming pump leak fuel when you operate it?  If yes, replace
with new.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Ed Booher
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Transmission issue

On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Jim Cathey 
wrote:


 So I should turn the idle adjust *after* depressing the throttle?




Yes, otherwise you're trying, with fingers and plastic, to pull on a
throttle mechanism that is sprung for foot pressure.  It's hard to do,



hard on the mechanism, and can result in stretched cables and
broken-off knobs.  The manual even says to push the pedal first.

-- Jim



Woah! That knob has some travel to it. I'm pretty sure that I got it to
full open, or full counter clockwise, however you want to describe it.
First time I've seen my car smoke too. Plume of blue smoke accompanied
that discovery.

On another note, even at full open, with it being 45 degress this
morning while chilly isn't anywhere near winter level, car was very
difficult to start. Had to crank a long time to get it to finally catch.
Is that normal for this vintage of Diesel?

EdB

--
"I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." -
Adrian Monk ___
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Re: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Yea, so it is, I did not notice it was on the wrong list.

Mitch Haley wrote:
It's been pointed out that this thread went to the wrong list, but 
I've just got to add this:


Sean Hannity and his little brother Rachel:
http://sipseystreetirregulars.blogspot.com/2010/04/sean-maddowrachel-hannity.html 



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[WILTON]

Pollen very heavy here, too; eastern NC.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "John Robbins" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!



On 4/8/2010 10:08 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

And don't forget 2" of pine pollen on the cars every morning.


Ugh Don't remind me!

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

What are you using to flush?

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 12:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

If I convert from 134a to Freeze12,  how many parts of the system will I
have to flush with flushing fluid?  I would use R-12 oil, I suppose.  I
have a new compressor to install.  How much oil should I add to it?  The
MB disc says 180 c.c. (about 6 ounces), and how much to the other
components?
Also, does it matter  in which port you put the oil in the compressor?
The instructions mention a switch cavity plug held in by a retainer
ring.  Since there was no switch in this port on the old compressor, is
this a "no switch" system?
I've been running R-134a for several years down here in the heat of
Florida, and no matter how thoroughly I flush the sytem, vacuum it
correctly, and stop all leaks; it still doesn't do a very good job of
cooling.
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

From: "John Reames" 
> Again by regulation, you should have a recovery machine on hand 
> anytime you touch a system, as the service valves might develop an 
> unstoppable leak.  Those regulations require that systems with leaks 
> should be repaired, or in the alternative, that all refrigerant be 
> recovered from the system.
> -j.
>
> --
> John W Reames
> jwrea...@comcast.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
>
> On Apr 7, 2010, at 21:00, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> That is true, by regulation.  However, by practical experience, it 
>> doesn't matter much on a 124, because once the evap starts to leak, 
>> you will be adding refrigerant, not having someone pump it out.
>> Experienced refr. guys mixed it for years.  I am not advocating 
>> disregard for regs, but passing on field experience.  YMMV
>>
>> Neither the EPA or tree huggers are going to put a new evap in 
>> anyone's 124.  It is just a shame that MB installs the evap, then 
>> builds the car around it.
>>
>>
>>> If you are EPA licensed then you will know that you aren't allowed 
>>> by federal regulation to mix refrigerants, including R12 and 
>>> Freeze12.  And I don't think anywhere will sell you 
>>> Freeze12/Envirosafe/etc. without the license any more.
>>>
>>> That said, if you want to go the R12-equivalent route then you may 
>>> as well get licensed anyway, because no one will ever work on your 
>>> system - you'll contaminate their recovery machine.  ...And once you

>>> have the license you can buy real R12 to top off, though of course 
>>> you have to find it, and it's at least 4-5x the cost of Freeze12.
>>>
>>> For all the bluster A/C work really isn't that hard, but keeping up 
>>> with the EPA is a full-time job.
>>>
>>> -Tim
>>>
 --- Original Message ---
 From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
 Sent: 10-04-07, 17:34:30
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

 That is MY preferred way to go.  We used it in commercial refr. for

 years with absolutely NO problems related to the gas.  YOu don't 
 have to remove the old R12.  Just add some freeze 12 to it.  If you

 have
 R12 gauges, it is easy.  If not, you might consider buying the HF
 134
 gauge set and use it only for R12 without the 134a adapters..


 >Anyone familiar with this stuff?  Except for the recovery of the
 old
 >R12 using a EPA approved machine, it seems fairly simple to 
 >convert
 >- add a couple of unique fittings and add the Freeze12.
 >
 >http://freeze-12.com/
 >
 >Thx
 >LarryT
 >'91 300D
 >
 >OilAnalysis Time?
 >Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
 >www.youroil.net
 >
 >
 >
 >--
 >From: "LarryT" 
 >Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM
>>> > >To: 
>>> > >Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
>>> > >
>>> > >>Hi Gang -
>>> > >>My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.
>>> > >>Of course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F
 >>heat - but I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I 
 >>need to add some...
 >>
 >>The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on

 >>changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?
 >>
 >>Comments?
 >>
 >>LarryT
 >>91 300D
 >>W124


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Re: [MBZ] OM617.95x water pump/fan pulley Q

[John Reames]

The part number is correct. It is currently more than 100 from mbusa.

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On Apr 8, 2010, at 8:56, "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,  
53310"  wrote:



On-line EPC is great for these kinds of questions, coupled with the MB
price list from Dave M. and you can get a very good estimate of the
cost. http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp

Starting with a 123.133 in the EPC...

I find a part number of 617 205 05 10.

That part is also used on...

All vehicles that use OM617.950, 951, and 952 engines.

Note for the 123.133 application: "up to engine OM617.951 039510".  No
indication of what was used after that.

If you plug your VIN in directly, you can have more confidence that  
the

part number is correct.

I replaced the single belt pulley on my '85 123.190 and the cost of  
new

back in ~2002 was about $40.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OM617.95x water pump/fan pulley Q

Does anyone know (offhand) if the water pump pulley is the same across
all years of the turbo 617's, or is it different for the years with  
the

longer belts?

What years would interchange with an 85?

Mine is inexplicably bent; the plane of the bees is no longer parallel
with the plane of the mounting surface (so it has a good bot of run-
out), and I suspect that the vees are no longer co-centric with the
mounting holes...

It likes to munch belts quickly...


--
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Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Curt Raymond]

So '84 didn't have a bearing? Maybe that explains why mine broke...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 19:42:23 -0500
From: OK Don 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

If Curt doesn't want it, my son does - the original '84  cover/ tensioner
without the bearing is an accident waiting to happen ---

On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 2:21 PM, Frederick W Moir wrote:

> Curt.
> I still have the used 601 timing cover, repaired even, good threads in
> tensioner bolt hole, yours if you want it.
> Last time I'll offer.
> Fred Moir
> Lynn MA
> Diesel preferred.


-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Mitch Haley]

It's been pointed out that this thread went to the wrong list, but I've just got 
to add this:


Sean Hannity and his little brother Rachel:
http://sipseystreetirregulars.blogspot.com/2010/04/sean-maddowrachel-hannity.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

as have I.

Mitch Haley wrote:

Rolf wrote:

Fox should fire Hannity and Beck.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/36204129#36204129

Just wow.


I've been wondering how Rachel Man-Cow got on the air myself.

Mitch.

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2797 - Release Date: 04/07/10 13:32:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Greg Fiorentino]

So instead of one allegedly cherry-picked version we get another
cherry-picked version.  Since the unedited versions are out there, why has
Maddow not provided links to those so we could see for ourselves?  Note that
even she admits that this only clears the California office...or does it?
How do we know that the "police" contact isn't someone who is a corrupt
Mexican police official looking to take a "mordida" (bite) of the illegal
action?  There is no information on what if any action was taken by the
Mexican authorities after the phone call.

H.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

Fox should fire Hannity and Beck.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/36204129#36204129

Just wow.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Dieselhead]

I thought politics were banned to Banned.


Fox should fire Hannity and Beck.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/36204129#36204129

Just wow.

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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Rich Thomas]

Near Charleston SC, have not thought about tsunami but that could be a 
possibility.  In 1887 (or around there) we had an earthquake here that 
is estimated to have been over 7, maybe 7.4, so yeah, that could cause a 
problem with the water.  Don't know if back then it happened or not.  
The experts say we might be overdue for the next "big one."


--R

On 4/8/2010 12:13 PM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

Where is 'Here'. Tsunami danger in New England? Should I leave work early?


   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Mitch Haley]

Rolf wrote:

Fox should fire Hannity and Beck.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/36204129#36204129

Just wow.


I've been wondering how Rachel Man-Cow got on the air myself.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[archer]

If I convert from 134a to Freeze12,  how many parts of the system will I 
have to flush with flushing fluid?  I would use R-12 oil, I suppose.  I have 
a new compressor to install.  How much oil should I add to it?  The MB disc 
says 180 c.c. (about 6 ounces), and how much to the other components?
Also, does it matter  in which port you put the oil in the compressor?  The 
instructions mention a switch cavity plug held in by a retainer ring.  Since 
there was no switch in this port on the old compressor, is this a "no 
switch" system?
I've been running R-134a for several years down here in the heat of Florida, 
and no matter how thoroughly I flush the sytem, vacuum it correctly, and 
stop all leaks; it still doesn't do a very good job of cooling.

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

From: "John Reames" 

Again by regulation, you should have a recovery machine on hand
anytime you touch a system, as the service valves might develop an
unstoppable leak.  Those regulations require that systems with leaks
should be repaired, or in the alternative, that all refrigerant be
recovered from the system.
-j.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 7, 2010, at 21:00, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:


That is true, by regulation.  However, by practical experience, it
doesn't matter much on a 124, because once the evap starts to leak,
you will be adding refrigerant, not having someone pump it out.
Experienced refr. guys mixed it for years.  I am not advocating
disregard for regs, but passing on field experience.  YMMV

Neither the EPA or tree huggers are going to put a new evap in
anyone's 124.  It is just a shame that MB installs the evap, then
builds the car around it.



If you are EPA licensed then you will know that you aren't allowed by
federal regulation to mix refrigerants, including R12 and
Freeze12.  And I
don't think anywhere will sell you Freeze12/Envirosafe/etc. without
the
license any more.

That said, if you want to go the R12-equivalent route then you may
as well
get licensed anyway, because no one will ever work on your system -
you'll
contaminate their recovery machine.  ...And once you have the
license you
can buy real R12 to top off, though of course you have to find it,
and it's
at least 4-5x the cost of Freeze12.

For all the bluster A/C work really isn't that hard, but keeping up
with
the EPA is a full-time job.

-Tim


--- Original Message ---
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: 10-04-07, 17:34:30
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

That is MY preferred way to go.  We used it in commercial refr. for
years with absolutely NO problems related to the gas.  YOu don't
have
to remove the old R12.  Just add some freeze 12 to it.  If you have
R12 gauges, it is easy.  If not, you might consider buying the HF
134
gauge set and use it only for R12 without the 134a adapters..


>Anyone familiar with this stuff?  Except for the recovery of the
old
>R12 using a EPA approved machine, it seems fairly simple to convert
>- add a couple of unique fittings and add the Freeze12.
>
>http://freeze-12.com/
>
>Thx
>LarryT
>'91 300D
>
>OilAnalysis Time?
>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>www.youroil.net
>
>
>
>--
>From: "LarryT" 
>Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM

> >To: 
> >Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
> >
> >>Hi Gang -
> >>My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.
> >>Of course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F

>>heat - but I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I need
>>to add some...
>>
>>The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on
>>changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?
>>
>>Comments?
>>
>>LarryT
>>91 300D
>>W124



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[MBZ] OT: ACORN the real story.

[Rolf]

Fox should fire Hannity and Beck.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/36204129#36204129

Just wow.

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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Greg Fiorentino]

Hmmm...we get the pollen (and earthquakes too) in the Pacific Northwest
also!

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 8:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

And don't forget 2" of pine pollen on the cars every morning.

-R

On 4/8/2010 10:44 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:
> When the one I felt occurred, our neighborhood must have been the
> epicenter - I don't think it merited more than a one-line comment during
> the local news.  No damage to our house or any of the neighbors.
>
> Floods, hurricanes, tornados, earthquakes, AND Palmetto Bugs!  The
> charms of living in the low country...
>
> -Max
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:35 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!
>
> I looked here http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsus/ but
> see no reports, so I'm wondering if a Marine jet jockey got a little too
> exuberant with his throttles this morning.  It was a good jolt though,
> might have been the Seneca guns?
> http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/topics/booms.php
>
> --R
>
> On 4/8/2010 10:15 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
> wrote:
>
>> Give that dog a bone!
>>
>> A few years ago we had an earthquake here one evening, and I was
>> convinced that the neighbor's boy had driven his car into our house or
>>  
>
>> something - one big BAM which shook the house and it was over.
>>
>> -Max
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
>> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
>> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:13 AM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!
>>
>> So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a
>> second later WHAMBOOM!!!  I think we just got a little earth jolt
>> here, and the dog picked it up before it hit.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>  
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>

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Re: [MBZ] Ebay car for wifey. 87 300d

[Rolf]

I got your number and will call when I am done with DMV, with any luck 
should be right around lunchtime.


-Rolf

Tim C. wrote:
Aw come on where is your sense of adventure! Anyways I don't want to get 
hassled by airport security. I will buy a pair of pliers, screwdriver 
and razor blade . Maybe some duct tape. It is amazing what you can do 
with duct tape, atleast according to what I have seen in Alabama.





Offer is still good if you need something, I'll be sure the breaker bar 
and sockets are in the trunk Friday along with the usual. :)  Give me a 
call when you finish up if you're still game for lunch.


-Tim

  

-Rolf

WILTON wrote:


Uh-oh.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Rolf" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ebay car for wifey. 87 300d


  
My cellphone. I am daring! Plan on topping off fluids before I leave. 
It is the guys DD so here's hoping nothing goes wrong.


-Rolf

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

Check Craig's List for the area before you go; if this one turns out 
  

to
  
be a turd in person, then maybe you can look at something else and 
  

not
  

waste the time/airfare...

Let us know how it turns out!

What are you packing for tools?

-Max
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:22 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ebay car for wifey. 87 300d

This is the week! Got insurance on it and called the DMV today to 
  

make
  

sure nothing fancy was needed for the registration.

-Rolf


Rolf wrote:
 
  
Its in Raleigh, going to pick it up. White on red, body and all 
looks half decent. 200+k and leaky trans. New tires. Flying up on 
the 9th to


 
  

bring it back (crossed fingers for the drive).

-Rolf

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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[pm7088]

Where is 'Here'. Tsunami danger in New England? Should I leave work early? 


-- 

Peter T. Arnold P.M. x3 
All Mail to: 
Secretary Hartford Evergreen Lodge #88 A.F. & A.M. 
34 Country Club Drive 
Windsor, CT 06095 


- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas"  
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"  
Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 9:13:05 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [MBZ] OT YOW!!! 

So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a 
second later WHAMBOOM!!! I think we just got a little earth jolt here, 
and the dog picked it up before it hit. 

--R 

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Transmission issue

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Sounds like you've got another problem.  The knob you turned only
increases the idle speed by pulling on the same linkage that the
accelerator throttle moves, it does nothing to affect starting or
air/fuel ratios, I believe.

You may have an air leak allowing the injection pump to lose its prime,
and/or you may have flaky injector or two, or some other problem.  Does
the manual priming pump leak fuel when you operate it?  If yes, replace
with new.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Ed Booher
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Transmission issue

On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Jim Cathey 
wrote:

>  So I should turn the idle adjust *after* depressing the throttle?
>>
>
> Yes, otherwise you're trying, with fingers and plastic, to pull on a 
> throttle mechanism that is sprung for foot pressure.  It's hard to do,

> hard on the mechanism, and can result in stretched cables and 
> broken-off knobs.  The manual even says to push the pedal first.
>
> -- Jim


Woah! That knob has some travel to it. I'm pretty sure that I got it to
full open, or full counter clockwise, however you want to describe it.
First time I've seen my car smoke too. Plume of blue smoke accompanied
that discovery.

On another note, even at full open, with it being 45 degress this
morning while chilly isn't anywhere near winter level, car was very
difficult to start. Had to crank a long time to get it to finally catch.
Is that normal for this vintage of Diesel?

EdB

--
"I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." -
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Transmission issue

[Ed Booher]

On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:

>  So I should turn the idle adjust *after* depressing the throttle?
>>
>
> Yes, otherwise you're trying, with fingers and plastic, to pull on
> a throttle mechanism that is sprung for foot pressure.  It's hard
> to do, hard on the mechanism, and can result in stretched cables
> and broken-off knobs.  The manual even says to push the pedal first.
>
> -- Jim


Woah! That knob has some travel to it. I'm pretty sure that I got it to full
open, or full counter clockwise, however you want to describe it. First time
I've seen my car smoke too. Plume of blue smoke accompanied that discovery.

On another note, even at full open, with it being 45 degress this morning
while chilly isn't anywhere near winter level, car was very difficult to
start. Had to crank a long time to get it to finally catch. Is that normal
for this vintage of Diesel?

EdB

-- 
"I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." -
Adrian Monk
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Re: [MBZ] RI Red lives!

[Frederick W Moir]

OK Don.
If curt doesn't want it, I'll let yo know.
I've attached some pics of my repair, non structural just to keep the 
oil in.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 4/7/2010 8:42 PM, OK Don wrote:

If Curt doesn't want it, my son does - the original '84  cover/ tensioner
without the bearing is an accident waiting to happen ---

On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 2:21 PM, Frederick W Moirwrote:

   

Curt.
I still have the used 601 timing cover, repaired even, good threads in
tensioner bolt hole, yours if you want it.
Last time I'll offer.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.
 


   

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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[John Robbins]

On 4/8/2010 10:08 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

And don't forget 2" of pine pollen on the cars every morning.


Ugh Don't remind me!

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Or I guess you could use one of those side clamp deals that pokes a hole 
in the side of the can for charging.


Jim Cathey wrote:
So tell me more about this test refrigerant. I know you have before.  
What is in it?  Where do you get it?  How do you mix it?  How do you 
charge it?  Put this in terms stupid people can grasp.


See:  http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwair.html

-- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

so you can get the 70/30 mix at sporting goods stores?  How do you get 
it out of the can and into your system?  Will it screw onto R12 guages?


Jim Cathey wrote:
So tell me more about this test refrigerant. I know you have before.  
What is in it?  Where do you get it?  How do you mix it?  How do you 
charge it?  Put this in terms stupid people can grasp.


See:  http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwair.html

-- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Rich Thomas]

I don't know the answer to your question, whether it is for drying water 
or the vapor stream (i.e., drying out the droplets of liquid 
refrigerant) or both.  I seem to recall reading something about that in 
last year's (and the years' before...) discussions of AC, and got the 
impression it was for refrigerant, but whoever was opining might be as 
ignorant as I.


--R

On 4/8/2010 10:54 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
I think the drier is there to collect liquid bits from the 
refrigerant stream, not water moisture.


Then why, pray tell, does it have the name "drier"?  It's
a receiver/drier, and also a filter.  The receiver function
is where it collects liquid refrigerant for disbursal to
the rest of the system.  It contains a bag of desiccant and
a screen, to fulfill its other functions.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Rich Thomas]

And don't forget 2" of pine pollen on the cars every morning.

-R

On 4/8/2010 10:44 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

When the one I felt occurred, our neighborhood must have been the
epicenter - I don't think it merited more than a one-line comment during
the local news.  No damage to our house or any of the neighbors.

Floods, hurricanes, tornados, earthquakes, AND Palmetto Bugs!  The
charms of living in the low country...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

I looked here http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsus/ but
see no reports, so I'm wondering if a Marine jet jockey got a little too
exuberant with his throttles this morning.  It was a good jolt though,
might have been the Seneca guns?
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/topics/booms.php

--R

On 4/8/2010 10:15 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
   

Give that dog a bone!

A few years ago we had an earthquake here one evening, and I was
convinced that the neighbor's boy had driven his car into our house or
 
   

something - one big BAM which shook the house and it was over.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a
second later WHAMBOOM!!!  I think we just got a little earth jolt
here, and the dog picked it up before it hit.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

I think you want to keep the original type of oil, which I believe is mineral 
oil but double check that.  A good auto parts place will have at least two 
types of AC oil on the shelf, and should be able to explain which one is 
compatible with R-12; that is the one you probably want, but I would double 
check that with someone more experienced than I...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:58 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 7:52 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> Too little oil and the compressor seizes.  Too much and it coats the 
> pipes and impairs the efficiency of the system.
> Any of the wrong type (immiscible) and it impairs the system, and 
> enough of it can slug the compressor and break the reed valves.

What, then, is the right oil to add to a system that has had only the original 
R12 in it and is now being converted to use a hydrocarbon such as Envirosafe or 
Cathey's Magic Brew?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Mitch Haley]

Alex Chamberlain wrote:


What, then, is the right oil to add to a system that has had only the
original R12 in it and is now being converted to use a hydrocarbon
such as Envirosafe or Cathey's Magic Brew?


Good old mineral refrigerant oil. I think it was about $10 a quart at NAPA when 
I bought some last summer, and sometimes you can find little pressurized cans, I 
think they have 2oz oil and 4oz R12 in them.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I suspect this old snap ac AC machine I got is leaking a little, I dont 
think its pulling down a good enough vacuum.


Peter Frederick wrote:
Check all your hose fittings for leaks, too.  You would be amazed at 
how much air you can get leaking through a bad seal on a quick 
disconnect.


I am kinda nutty about flushing all the lines with freon before 
charging, too.


Peter

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2797 - Release Date: 04/07/10 13:32:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Ah, well, I'll have to take a look if/when I do open her up again...

Thanks,
Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

> other idea that my neighbor has is that my screen might be clogged 
> (based on the pressures seen on the high side vs. the low side) but I 
> don't see any screen in the FSM.

The expansion valve usually has a small screen in its input fitting.
I've cleaned these before, but I don't know about the H-valve form used
in the 124 and 126.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 7:52 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> Too little oil and the compressor seizes.  Too much and it
> coats the pipes and impairs the efficiency of the system.
> Any of the wrong type (immiscible) and it impairs the system,
> and enough of it can slug the compressor and break the reed
> valves.

What, then, is the right oil to add to a system that has had only the
original R12 in it and is now being converted to use a hydrocarbon
such as Envirosafe or Cathey's Magic Brew?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

Actually it is (or was) legal to convert from 134a to a non-SNAP 
refrigerant; it is not legal to convert directly from a CFC or HCFC 
based refrigerant to a non-SNAP refrigerant, nor is it legal to use a 
"sham" conversion.


That is a bit of skulduggery aimed at getting your system converted
to oils that are ONLY useful with R134a.  The oil conversion is the
hard part, so once they've trapped you into R134a you'll be unhappy
until you dump the car and get a newer one, or at least until the
crappy oil destroys the AC system in its entirety and taking you out
of the AC gene pool.  Really.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

other idea that my neighbor has is that my screen might be clogged
(based on the pressures seen on the high side vs. the low side) but I
don't see any screen in the FSM.


The expansion valve usually has a small screen in its
input fitting.  I've cleaned these before, but I don't
know about the H-valve form used in the 124 and 126.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

I think the drier is there to collect liquid bits from the refrigerant 
stream, not water moisture.


Then why, pray tell, does it have the name "drier"?  It's
a receiver/drier, and also a filter.  The receiver function
is where it collects liquid refrigerant for disbursal to
the rest of the system.  It contains a bag of desiccant and
a screen, to fulfill its other functions.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

<>  Thx Jim - does this stuff have a 
commercial name?


There are some, not sure which ones.  I use my own.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Jim Cathey]

Yes - you must assume that you lost some oil as well, and failing to
replace that can run the compressor dry if you lose too much.  The 
trick

is to decide how much oil and what type of oil to add back in...


Too little oil and the compressor seizes.  Too much and it
coats the pipes and impairs the efficiency of the system.
Any of the wrong type (immiscible) and it impairs the system,
and enough of it can slug the compressor and break the reed
valves.

The AC system on the 190D ran dry and the compressor seized.
The Klima saved it, though, as I was able to take it apart
and un-seize it, put it back together and it has been (so far)
running fine.  It's not a car we use much, though.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#20Dec2007

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#31May2008

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

When the one I felt occurred, our neighborhood must have been the
epicenter - I don't think it merited more than a one-line comment during
the local news.  No damage to our house or any of the neighbors.

Floods, hurricanes, tornados, earthquakes, AND Palmetto Bugs!  The
charms of living in the low country...

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

I looked here http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsus/ but
see no reports, so I'm wondering if a Marine jet jockey got a little too
exuberant with his throttles this morning.  It was a good jolt though,
might have been the Seneca guns?  
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/topics/booms.php

--R

On 4/8/2010 10:15 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
> Give that dog a bone!
>
> A few years ago we had an earthquake here one evening, and I was 
> convinced that the neighbor's boy had driven his car into our house or

> something - one big BAM which shook the house and it was over.
>
> -Max
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:13 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!
>
> So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a 
> second later WHAMBOOM!!!  I think we just got a little earth jolt 
> here, and the dog picked it up before it hit.
>
> --R
>
> ___
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
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> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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>
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>
>

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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Rich Thomas]

I looked here http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsus/ but 
see no reports, so I'm wondering if a Marine jet jockey got a little too 
exuberant with his throttles this morning.  It was a good jolt though, 
might have been the Seneca guns?  
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/topics/booms.php


--R

On 4/8/2010 10:15 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Give that dog a bone!

A few years ago we had an earthquake here one evening, and I was
convinced that the neighbor's boy had driven his car into our house or
something - one big BAM which shook the house and it was over.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a
second later WHAMBOOM!!!  I think we just got a little earth jolt here,
and the dog picked it up before it hit.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Yes - you must assume that you lost some oil as well, and failing to
replace that can run the compressor dry if you lose too much.  The trick
is to decide how much oil and what type of oil to add back in...

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:40 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

Thx Tim - I'm thinking I'll try to find a 12 oz can and add that - I
shouldn't have any futures troubles doing that would I?

How do I determine if there's a evap leak?

LarryT
'91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Tim C." 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:27 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

> If you are EPA licensed then you will know that you aren't allowed by 
> federal regulation to mix refrigerants, including R12 and Freeze12.  
> And I don't think anywhere will sell you Freeze12/Envirosafe/etc. 
> without the license any more.
>
> That said, if you want to go the R12-equivalent route then you may as 
> well get licensed anyway, because no one will ever work on your system

> - you'll contaminate their recovery machine.  ...And once you have the

> license you can buy real R12 to top off, though of course you have to 
> find it, and it's at least 4-5x the cost of Freeze12.
>
> For all the bluster A/C work really isn't that hard, but keeping up 
> with the EPA is a full-time job.
>
> -Tim
>
>> --- Original Message ---
>> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Sent: 10-04-07, 17:34:30
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
>>
>> That is MY preferred way to go.  We used it in commercial refr. for 
>> years with absolutely NO problems related to the gas.  YOu don't have

>> to remove the old R12.  Just add some freeze 12 to it.  If you have
>> R12 gauges, it is easy.  If not, you might consider buying the HF 134

>> gauge set and use it only for R12 without the 134a adapters..
>>
>>
>> >Anyone familiar with this stuff?  Except for the recovery of the old
>> >R12 using a EPA approved machine, it seems fairly simple to convert
>> >- add a couple of unique fittings and add the Freeze12.
>> >
>> >http://freeze-12.com/
>> >
>> >Thx
>> >LarryT
>> >'91 300D
>> >
>> >OilAnalysis Time?
>> >Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>> >www.youroil.net
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >--
>> >From: "LarryT" 
>> >Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM
>> >To: 
>> >Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
>> >
>> >>Hi Gang -
>> >>My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.
>> >>Of course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F 
>> >>heat - but I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I need 
>> >>to add some...
>> >>
>> >>The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on 
>> >>changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?
>> >>
>> >>Comments?
>> >>
>> >>LarryT
>> >>91 300D
>> >>W124
>> >>
>> >>OilAnalysis Time?
>> >>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>> >>www.youroil.net
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>___
>> >>http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list 
>> >>archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >>
>> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> >>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> >>
>> >
>> >___
>> >http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list 
>> >archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> >http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>> ___
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Give that dog a bone!

A few years ago we had an earthquake here one evening, and I was
convinced that the neighbor's boy had driven his car into our house or
something - one big BAM which shook the house and it was over.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a
second later WHAMBOOM!!!  I think we just got a little earth jolt here,
and the dog picked it up before it hit.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[WILTON]

A gas detector detects Freon coming out of the inside cooling 
registers/vents.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "LarryT" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over


Thx Tim - I'm thinking I'll try to find a 12 oz can and add that - I 
shouldn't have any futures troubles doing that would I?


How do I determine if there's a evap leak?

LarryT
'91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Tim C." 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:27 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over


If you are EPA licensed then you will know that you aren't allowed by
federal regulation to mix refrigerants, including R12 and Freeze12.  And 
I

don't think anywhere will sell you Freeze12/Envirosafe/etc. without the
license any more.

That said, if you want to go the R12-equivalent route then you may as 
well
get licensed anyway, because no one will ever work on your system - 
you'll

contaminate their recovery machine.  ...And once you have the license you
can buy real R12 to top off, though of course you have to find it, and 
it's

at least 4-5x the cost of Freeze12.

For all the bluster A/C work really isn't that hard, but keeping up with
the EPA is a full-time job.

-Tim


--- Original Message ---
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: 10-04-07, 17:34:30
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

That is MY preferred way to go.  We used it in commercial refr. for
years with absolutely NO problems related to the gas.  YOu don't have
to remove the old R12.  Just add some freeze 12 to it.  If you have
R12 gauges, it is easy.  If not, you might consider buying the HF 134
gauge set and use it only for R12 without the 134a adapters..


>Anyone familiar with this stuff?  Except for the recovery of the old
>R12 using a EPA approved machine, it seems fairly simple to convert
>- add a couple of unique fittings and add the Freeze12.
>
>http://freeze-12.com/
>
>Thx
>LarryT
>'91 300D
>
>OilAnalysis Time?
>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>www.youroil.net
>
>
>
>--
>From: "LarryT" 
>Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM
>To: 
>Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
>
>>Hi Gang -
>>My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.
>>Of course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F
>>heat - but I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I need
>>to add some...
>>
>>The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on
>>changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?
>>
>>Comments?
>>
>>LarryT
>>91 300D
>>W124
>>
>>OilAnalysis Time?
>>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>>www.youroil.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>___
>>http://www.okiebenz.com
>>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>___
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>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Mitch Haley]

LarryT wrote:
<>  Thx Jim - does this stuff have a 
commercial name?


Envirosafe is a name that it's sold by for automotive use.
I think Jim uses the isobutane/propane camp stove fuel, and then tops it off 
with Coleman propane.


Details here:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwair.html

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[LarryT]

Thx Tim - I'm thinking I'll try to find a 12 oz can and add that - I shouldn't 
have any futures troubles doing that would I?


How do I determine if there's a evap leak?

LarryT
'91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Tim C." 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:27 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over


If you are EPA licensed then you will know that you aren't allowed by
federal regulation to mix refrigerants, including R12 and Freeze12.  And I
don't think anywhere will sell you Freeze12/Envirosafe/etc. without the
license any more.

That said, if you want to go the R12-equivalent route then you may as well
get licensed anyway, because no one will ever work on your system - you'll
contaminate their recovery machine.  ...And once you have the license you
can buy real R12 to top off, though of course you have to find it, and 
it's

at least 4-5x the cost of Freeze12.

For all the bluster A/C work really isn't that hard, but keeping up with
the EPA is a full-time job.

-Tim


--- Original Message ---
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: 10-04-07, 17:34:30
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

That is MY preferred way to go.  We used it in commercial refr. for
years with absolutely NO problems related to the gas.  YOu don't have
to remove the old R12.  Just add some freeze 12 to it.  If you have
R12 gauges, it is easy.  If not, you might consider buying the HF 134
gauge set and use it only for R12 without the 134a adapters..


>Anyone familiar with this stuff?  Except for the recovery of the old
>R12 using a EPA approved machine, it seems fairly simple to convert
>- add a couple of unique fittings and add the Freeze12.
>
>http://freeze-12.com/
>
>Thx
>LarryT
>'91 300D
>
>OilAnalysis Time?
>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>www.youroil.net
>
>
>
>--
>From: "LarryT" 
>Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM
>To: 
>Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over
>
>>Hi Gang -
>>My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.
>>Of course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F
>>heat - but I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I need
>>to add some...
>>
>>The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on
>>changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?
>>
>>Comments?
>>
>>LarryT
>>91 300D
>>W124
>>
>>OilAnalysis Time?
>>Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
>>www.youroil.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>___
>>http://www.okiebenz.com
>>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Dieselhead]

I have heard that from other sources as well.


That's what Marshall used to say.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:57 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

John Reames wrote:


 Although, with older systems you can have diffusion-based leakage
 through the hoses unless the hoses Are, or were replaced with
 barrier-type hoses prior to conversion.


It has been said that if you run r12 and mineral oil through a hose
under pressure for 20 years, it effectively becomes a barrier hose. Any
truth to that?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[LarryT]

<>  Thx Jim - does this stuff have a 
commercial name?


LarryT
91 300D 2.5T

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Jim Cathey" 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:37 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on 
changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?


Never, never do this.  Not only does it not work as well, but the
real problem is with the hygroscopic and/or immiscible oils.  I've
converted systems _back_ from R134a, and promptly used a hydrocarbon
test refrigerant in them.  Costs about $8 for a full charge, and
you don't have to change anything.

Once you've repaired any leaks and tested it long enough, say,
about ten years or so, you can then put spendy R12 back in.  Mine
are all still in their trial periods.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Mitch Haley]

LarryT wrote:

Thx Wilton - $30 isn't bad at all!   Will look for some -


Where are you located?
http://richmond.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=60&subAreaID=&query=r-12&catAbbreviation=sss

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[LarryT]

Thx Wilton - $30 isn't bad at all!   Will look for some -

LarryT
91 300D 2,5T

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "WILTON" 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:05 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

Don't change it!  Go to internet and/or refer guy and get some R-12; 'bout 
$30/12 oz. can.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "LarryT" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:16 PM
Subject: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over



Hi Gang -
My '91 300D W124 is not blowing super cold like it usually does.  Of 
course it sat in the sun at the shooting range this Am in 90F heat - but 
I then saw bubbles in the sight glass so I think I need to add some...


The bad news is I have a R12 system.  So, what's the consensus on 
changing to R134a?  What equipment needs to be changed?


Comments?

LarryT
91 300D
W124

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net




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[MBZ] OT YOW!!!

[Rich Thomas]

So a minute ago the dog started barking at something and then about a 
second later WHAMBOOM!!!  I think we just got a little earth jolt here, 
and the dog picked it up before it hit.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Here's a tank of R12

[Mitch Haley]

Rich Thomas wrote:

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1681332229.html



It probably is a partial tank from a shop that no longer services R12.
OTOH, it could be a tank that somebody reclaimed used whatever into, or an empty 
tank that somebody filled with who knows what to sell as a mostly full tank.


It's probably good stuff 90% of the time, but I'm a bit leery of buying open 
cans from strangers. No way I'd pay $250 for one. This is more the going rate:

http://flint.craigslist.org/pts/1646032962.html



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Re: [MBZ] Another Oil Thread

[Rich Thomas]

Or both.

--R (Paranoia strikes deep, into your heart it can creep...)

On 4/8/2010 8:58 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

I'm beginning to think there's either a conspiracy OR a very high
concentration of diesel drivers in Mt. P

-Max
   



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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Rich Thomas]

I think the drier is there to collect liquid bits from the refrigerant 
stream, not water moisture.


--R

On 4/8/2010 8:44 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Yep.  Theoretically, the rcvr/drier should take care of residual
moisture, right?  In the MB design, does it also act as the screen?  The
other idea that my neighbor has is that my screen might be clogged
(based on the pressures seen on the high side vs. the low side) but I
don't see any screen in the FSM.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 8:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

   

I'm also thinking about swapping the expansion valve (and the
receiver/drier) while I've it open.
 

If you open the system, you replace the receiver/drier.

Mitch.

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[MBZ] Here's a tank of R12

[Rich Thomas]

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1681332229.html

--R

On 4/8/2010 8:44 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Yep.  Theoretically, the rcvr/drier should take care of residual
moisture, right?  In the MB design, does it also act as the screen?  The
other idea that my neighbor has is that my screen might be clogged
(based on the pressures seen on the high side vs. the low side) but I
don't see any screen in the FSM.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 8:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

   

I'm also thinking about swapping the expansion valve (and the
receiver/drier) while I've it open.
 

If you open the system, you replace the receiver/drier.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Another Oil Thread

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Larry, thanks for following up.  Got the M1 at the Advance closest to my
work location.  Rather irritating, the Advance closest to my house and
very convenient to stop at while driving home did not have it in stock.
I'm beginning to think there's either a conspiracy OR a very high
concentration of diesel drivers in Mt. P 

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another Oil Thread

I sent a note to AutoZone and AdvanceAuto & both said he M1 Turbo/Diesel
may not be displayed and to ask for it.  If not in the store they can
get it in
24 hours. (they said)

LarryT
91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" 

Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 12:37 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another Oil Thread

> Allen, I'm starting to think like you, if this becomes too much of a 
> quest I may just go with Delvac 1300 which the local W-mart does carry

> regularly.
>
> -Max
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Allan Streib
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:32 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another Oil Thread
>
> On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 08:39 -0500, "OK Don"  wrote:
>
>> I got 15W-40 at autozone last week. I usually check oil in the 60x 
>> engines first thing in the morning, but don't see that much 
>> difference
>
>> after 1/2 an hour after running, but haven't studied it closely.
>
> I have enough trouble finding quantities of M1 "Turbo Diesel Truck"
> 15W-40 or regular M1 20W-50 that I've just started using Delo.  I buy 
> it in 6 gallon cases at Sam's Club for about what one change of M1 
> would cost me.
>
> I appreciate the advantages of M1 but I'm not going to drive all over 
> town trying to find it.
>
> Allan
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] OM617.95x water pump/fan pulley Q

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

On-line EPC is great for these kinds of questions, coupled with the MB
price list from Dave M. and you can get a very good estimate of the
cost. http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp

Starting with a 123.133 in the EPC...

I find a part number of 617 205 05 10.

That part is also used on...

All vehicles that use OM617.950, 951, and 952 engines.

Note for the 123.133 application: "up to engine OM617.951 039510".  No
indication of what was used after that.

If you plug your VIN in directly, you can have more confidence that the
part number is correct.

I replaced the single belt pulley on my '85 123.190 and the cost of new
back in ~2002 was about $40.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OM617.95x water pump/fan pulley Q

Does anyone know (offhand) if the water pump pulley is the same across
all years of the turbo 617's, or is it different for the years with the
longer belts?

What years would interchange with an 85?

Mine is inexplicably bent; the plane of the bees is no longer parallel
with the plane of the mounting surface (so it has a good bot of run-
out), and I suspect that the vees are no longer co-centric with the
mounting holes...

It likes to munch belts quickly...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Yep.  Theoretically, the rcvr/drier should take care of residual
moisture, right?  In the MB design, does it also act as the screen?  The
other idea that my neighbor has is that my screen might be clogged
(based on the pressures seen on the high side vs. the low side) but I
don't see any screen in the FSM.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 8:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

> I'm also thinking about swapping the expansion valve (and the
> receiver/drier) while I've it open.

If you open the system, you replace the receiver/drier.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] AC Charge / Freon Change over

[Mitch Haley]

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:


I'm also thinking about swapping the expansion valve (and the
receiver/drier) while I've it open.


If you open the system, you replace the receiver/drier.

Mitch.

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