Re: [MBZ] High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.  If there is
also a speed sensor on the rear, replace that while you are there as
well as the manifold seal(s).  You may also want to consider replacing
the clutch, and then you'll practically have a rebuilt compressor.
Follow the procedure in the FTM...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 3:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] High pressure A/C leak?

 From: Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com
 Get some of that neon dye in a can?
 Walt

 On Jul 8, 2010 12:53 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 One problem with testing under the hood with engine running is that 
 the air flow from the fan does...
 Remove the fan.  Four little bolts, isn't it?
 Try bubble solution painted over the compressor manifold.
 -- Jim
 -
 Thanks.  I'll try them.
 Gerry
-
Gerry wrote:
Found the leak!  Decided to try one more time with the freon detector
after adding plenty of freon and letting the car sit in the shop all
night.  Went into the shop very slowly this morning so as to not create
any more air currents than necessary, and went over everything in the
engine compartment. 
When I got to the compressor with the detector set on high sensitivity,
the detector buzzed at the bottom of the compressor shaft but not at the
top. 
Double checked this and all possible leak points around it, and got a
positive every time I stuck the probe under the shaft between the
compressor and the clutch.  Therefore, it must be the shaft seal in the
compressor?

Since I also need a compressor for the other 123, might try to replace
the seal in one of the defective ones.  Didn't you write something about
replacing a compressor seal some time ago, Jim?

Many thanks,
Gerry.who has had little A/C experience.
'83 300D and 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
So you swapped out an r12 for an r134 evaporator?  Did you also need to
install the newer R-134 expansion valve?  I see from the EPC that there
is only one o-ring different between the two expansion valves, and it
seals one of the connections on the evaporator.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

yes, the ev is different, but even with the 134 ev, it still does not
cool as good as the factory 134 setup.

Frederick W Moir wrote:
 Kaleb, Max, et al.
 The expansion valve is different for R12  R134a. What I found was 
 that a clean and tight system with the 134 valve works OK, but not 
 brilliantly.
 YMMV
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice.  Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95.  Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

I thought of that myself but usually the EPC will give the replacement
part numbers etc, but IIRC there was only one showing, so it did not
look like it was replaced.

Jim Cathey wrote:
 The evap and condenser all have the same part number for R12 or R134.

 So why does the factory 134 seem to cool better than a converted car?

 They have the same part number _now_, but did they always?  A 
 larger-for-R134a finned beast could supersede an R12-only unit in the 
 parts callouts.

 Or, the converted thing didn't get rid of all the old immiscible oil, 
 which is coating the pipes and adding insulation on the inside.

 Or, the expansion valve is sufficiently different.

 Or...

 -- Jim



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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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 07/07/10 13:38:00

   

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Mitchel 300D engine cheatsheet (pdf)

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Walt,

Neat stuff, I'd love to have same for my '87 wagon, engine is OM603.960.
Does Mitchel have any torque converter stall speed data?  I would like
to know what that is for my '87 300TD, 124.193, transmission is 722.317.

Thanks,
Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Walt Zarnoch
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 1:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Mitchel 300D engine cheatsheet (pdf)

Found this today, figured someone else might find it useful.

I can possibly grab ones for other years/models as well.

Walt
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Looking at my last two posts, I'm wondering if the r134 expansion valve
will fit into my '87 wagon?  If I've got to pull the dash to replace a
bad vacuum pod, why not go whole hog and replace the evaporator while
I'm there so that I know the newer r134 expansion valve will fit?  Hmmm,
need to get my '95 back on the road so I can start taking apart my
'87...

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 6:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice.  Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95.  Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

I thought of that myself but usually the EPC will give the replacement
part numbers etc, but IIRC there was only one showing, so it did not
look like it was replaced.

Jim Cathey wrote:
 The evap and condenser all have the same part number for R12 or R134.

 So why does the factory 134 seem to cool better than a converted car?

 They have the same part number _now_, but did they always?  A 
 larger-for-R134a finned beast could supersede an R12-only unit in the 
 parts callouts.

 Or, the converted thing didn't get rid of all the old immiscible oil, 
 which is coating the pipes and adding insulation on the inside.

 Or, the expansion valve is sufficiently different.

 Or...

 -- Jim



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 --
 --


 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2988 - Release Date: 
 07/07/10 13:38:00

   

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.


You can also make this tool (for Nippondenso) if you have a
welder and a spare drain plug from a differential.  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#clutchtool

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread archer
Gerry wrote:
 Didn't you write something about replacing a compressor seal some time 
 ago, Jim?
 
 I've not yet replaced a shaft seal.
 -- Jim
---
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.  If there is
also a speed sensor on the rear, replace that while you are there as
well as the manifold seal(s).  You may also want to consider replacing
the clutch, and then you'll practically have a rebuilt compressor.
Follow the procedure in the FTM...
-Max
---
On the Nippndenso compressors it's not bad, but you do need to clean  
fhe front very well and have a clean workspace if you do not have the  
tools to pull the seal parts with the front cover on.  Otherwise, you  
pull the front cover after removing the clutch and bearing assembly,  
swap the bits, and put it back together.
I've done two, both work fine.
Peter
---
Thanks, guys.
Gerry


  
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty.  You can remove the 
clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car.  Theoretically you 
could replace just the seal underneath leaving the compressor in the car, but 
you may end up removing the radiator in order to get clearance.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of archer
Sent: Fri 7/9/2010 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?



Gerry wrote:
 Didn't you write something about replacing a compressor seal some time
 ago, Jim?

 I've not yet replaced a shaft seal.
 -- Jim
---
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.  If there is
also a speed sensor on the rear, replace that while you are there as
well as the manifold seal(s).  You may also want to consider replacing
the clutch, and then you'll practically have a rebuilt compressor.
Follow the procedure in the FTM...
-Max
---
On the Nippndenso compressors it's not bad, but you do need to clean 
fhe front very well and have a clean workspace if you do not have the 
tools to pull the seal parts with the front cover on.  Otherwise, you 
pull the front cover after removing the clutch and bearing assembly, 
swap the bits, and put it back together.
I've done two, both work fine.
Peter
---
Thanks, guys.
Gerry


 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Dieselhead
I put the 134 expansion valve on my 88  300TE.  it helps if you have 
10-12 yr old hands and fingers, but I managed to get it done with 
adult hands.  I had extra orings, which was good, because I lost or 
cut a small, odd sized  one in the process.


My understanding is that the 134 models had a different (Larger) 
condensor and a different expansion valve, and of course seals in the 
compressor and orings all over made for 134.  So, the ac should run 
just fine if you put in the newer condensor, the new expansion valve, 
flush the compressor, and put new orings everywhere.  In addition,, 
you probably want to put the latest rev of the evaporator in too, and 
you should end up with AC that keeps you cool, essentially a '95 ac 
in the 87.




For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice.  Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95.  Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

I thought of that myself but usually the EPC will give the replacement
part numbers etc, but IIRC there was only one showing, so it did not
look like it was replaced.

Jim Cathey wrote:

 The evap and condenser all have the same part number for R12 or R134.



 So why does the factory 134 seem to cool better than a converted car?


 They have the same part number _now_, but did they always?  A
 larger-for-R134a finned beast could supersede an R12-only unit in the
 parts callouts.

 Or, the converted thing didn't get rid of all the old immiscible oil,
 which is coating the pipes and adding insulation on the inside.

 Or, the expansion valve is sufficiently different.

 Or...

 -- Jim



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 --
 --


 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2988 - Release Date:
 07/07/10 13:38:00

 


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

___
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Bingo, exactly what I wanted to hear.  I'll be calling Rusty shortly to order a 
new expansion valve.  Condenser will have to wait - I'd like to compare my '95 
to my '87 to see if it will fit.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Fri 7/9/2010 9:17 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement



I put the 134 expansion valve on my 88  300TE.  it helps if you have
10-12 yr old hands and fingers, but I managed to get it done with
adult hands.  I had extra orings, which was good, because I lost or
cut a small, odd sized  one in the process.

My understanding is that the 134 models had a different (Larger)
condensor and a different expansion valve, and of course seals in the
compressor and orings all over made for 134.  So, the ac should run
just fine if you put in the newer condensor, the new expansion valve,
flush the compressor, and put new orings everywhere.  In addition,,
you probably want to put the latest rev of the evaporator in too, and
you should end up with AC that keeps you cool, essentially a '95 ac
in the 87.


For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice.  Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95.  Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

I thought of that myself but usually the EPC will give the replacement
part numbers etc, but IIRC there was only one showing, so it did not
look like it was replaced.

Jim Cathey wrote:
  The evap and condenser all have the same part number for R12 or R134.

  So why does the factory 134 seem to cool better than a converted car?

  They have the same part number _now_, but did they always?  A
  larger-for-R134a finned beast could supersede an R12-only unit in the
  parts callouts.

  Or, the converted thing didn't get rid of all the old immiscible oil,
  which is coating the pipes and adding insulation on the inside.

  Or, the expansion valve is sufficiently different.

  Or...

  -- Jim



  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com http://www.okiebenz.com/ 
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives
  http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2988 - Release Date:
  07/07/10 13:38:00

 

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com http://www.okiebenz.com/ 

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread Dieselhead
I managed to swap the clutches on the MB and the DatHonToy compressor 
with out any special tool, but I did have the compressors out of the 
cars.  I did a write up for the list several years ago.



The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty.  You can 
remove the clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car. 
Theoretically you could replace just the seal underneath leaving the 
compressor in the car, but you may end up removing the radiator in 
order to get clearance.


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of archer
Sent: Fri 7/9/2010 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?



Gerry wrote:

 Didn't you write something about replacing a compressor seal some time
 ago, Jim?


 I've not yet replaced a shaft seal.
 -- Jim

---
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.  If there is
also a speed sensor on the rear, replace that while you are there as
well as the manifold seal(s).  You may also want to consider replacing
the clutch, and then you'll practically have a rebuilt compressor.
Follow the procedure in the FTM...
-Max
---
On the Nippndenso compressors it's not bad, but you do need to clean
fhe front very well and have a clean workspace if you do not have the
tools to pull the seal parts with the front cover on.  Otherwise, you
pull the front cover after removing the clutch and bearing assembly,
swap the bits, and put it back together.
I've done two, both work fine.
Peter
---
Thanks, guys.
Gerry



___
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas
Well when you get all that stuff maybe we can try out the HF cheapie vac 
pump and gauges, and consult on the noisy compressor in the converted 84 SD.


--R

On 7/9/2010 9:28 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Bingo, exactly what I wanted to hear.  I'll be calling Rusty shortly to order a 
new expansion valve.  Condenser will have to wait - I'd like to compare my '95 
to my '87 to see if it will fit.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Fri 7/9/2010 9:17 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement



I put the 134 expansion valve on my 88  300TE.  it helps if you have
10-12 yr old hands and fingers, but I managed to get it done with
adult hands.  I had extra orings, which was good, because I lost or
cut a small, odd sized  one in the process.

My understanding is that the 134 models had a different (Larger)
condensor and a different expansion valve, and of course seals in the
compressor and orings all over made for 134.  So, the ac should run
just fine if you put in the newer condensor, the new expansion valve,
flush the compressor, and put new orings everywhere.  In addition,,
you probably want to put the latest rev of the evaporator in too, and
you should end up with AC that keeps you cool, essentially a '95 ac
in the 87.


   

For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice.  Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95.  Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

I thought of that myself but usually the EPC will give the replacement
part numbers etc, but IIRC there was only one showing, so it did not
look like it was replaced.

Jim Cathey wrote:
 

  The evap and condenser all have the same part number for R12 or R134.
 
 

  So why does the factory 134 seem to cool better than a converted car?
 

  They have the same part number _now_, but did they always?  A
  larger-for-R134a finned beast could supersede an R12-only unit in the
  parts callouts.

  Or, the converted thing didn't get rid of all the old immiscible oil,
  which is coating the pipes and adding insulation on the inside.

  Or, the expansion valve is sufficiently different.

  Or...

  -- Jim



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  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
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  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
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Re: [MBZ] High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread archer


Max wrote:

Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.



You can also make this tool (for Nippondenso) if you have a
welder and a spare drain plug from a differential.  See:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#clutchtool
-- Jim


Both cars have R-4 compressors but I'll keep that on file since next MB 
might have a Nippondenso.

Thanks,
Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread archer
The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty.  You can remove 
the clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car. 
Theoretically you could replace just the seal underneath leaving the 
compressor in the car, but you may end up removing the radiator in order 
to get clearance.

-Max

Doesn't look like there would be room without removing the radiator on the 
300D; maybe on the 240D.  The special tool sounds like it would be a 
worthwhile investment.

Thanks,
Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

2010-07-09 Thread Dieselhead
The expansion valve is the same on the outside.  the new one was 
stamped with 134 on the outside.



Bingo, exactly what I wanted to hear.  I'll be calling Rusty shortly 
to order a new expansion valve.  Condenser will have to wait - I'd 
like to compare my '95 to my '87 to see if it will fit.


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Fri 7/9/2010 9:17 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement



I put the 134 expansion valve on my 88  300TE.  it helps if you have
10-12 yr old hands and fingers, but I managed to get it done with
adult hands.  I had extra orings, which was good, because I lost or
cut a small, odd sized  one in the process.

My understanding is that the 134 models had a different (Larger)
condensor and a different expansion valve, and of course seals in the
compressor and orings all over made for 134.  So, the ac should run
just fine if you put in the newer condensor, the new expansion valve,
flush the compressor, and put new orings everywhere.  In addition,,
you probably want to put the latest rev of the evaporator in too, and
you should end up with AC that keeps you cool, essentially a '95 ac
in the 87.



For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice.  Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95.  Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:14 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: AC Duracool as r-12 replacement

I thought of that myself but usually the EPC will give the replacement
part numbers etc, but IIRC there was only one showing, so it did not
look like it was replaced.

Jim Cathey wrote:

  The evap and condenser all have the same part number for R12 or R134.



  So why does the factory 134 seem to cool better than a converted car?


  They have the same part number _now_, but did they always?  A
  larger-for-R134a finned beast could supersede an R12-only unit in the
  parts callouts.

  Or, the converted thing didn't get rid of all the old immiscible oil,
  which is coating the pipes and adding insulation on the inside.

  Or, the expansion valve is sufficiently different.

  Or...

  -- Jim



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  http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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  --
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2988 - Release Date:
  07/07/10 13:38:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com http://www.okiebenz.com/

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Re: [MBZ] Diagnose strange towing behavior

2010-07-09 Thread Curt Raymond
Sure can. S'not though, this is a good American trailer from the '70s! Only 
rust protection was a poor quality coat of paint. Fortunately previous owners 
repainted and I've kept up with it, except on this bit which is deep underneath.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:03:32 -0500
From: R A Bennell b...@mts.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diagnose strange towing behavior
Message-ID: nhbblomcoljnegblbjcpmefpogaa@mts.net
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=iso-8859-1

Just be a bit careful if the trailer is galvanized. The fumes can make you ill.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 8:03 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diagnose strange towing behavior


Yup, and the tilt mechanism on mine is pretty simple, two C channel pieces with 
3 bolts. Just need to take off the
middle piece of decking to get at it...

-Curt


  
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: Diagnose strange towing behavior

2010-07-09 Thread Jim Cathey
this is a good American trailer from the '70s! Only rust protection 
was a poor quality coat of paint.


My EZ-Loader had only what appears to be an excellent coat of paint.
There's a limit to what paint can do, when you repeatedly dunk the
whatsit in salt water and don't get a chance to rinse it off for
a week or so.  Now it's got rattle-can red paint!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 12 Wonderful Wagons We Want

2010-07-09 Thread R A Bennell
Ford made a Fairmont wagon in the early 80's that would have been comparable 
too. I never had the wagon but I had
the Mercury Zephyr 2 door and it was quite a decent little car with an inline 6.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of ernest breakfield
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 5:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Wonderful Wagons We Want


i miss the early 60's Ford Falcon wagon my family had; red, 2-door, big
circular tail lights, and that typical 'wood' paneling treatment that
was so popular at the time. that little thing really hauled! (can't
recall my Ford engines exactly, but i think it had some small V8 in it.)
 i have distinct memories of my mom as a young mother booking that
thing up some of the dirt roads near our house in the woods when the
roads were snowy and sloppy and she had to hit some of the hills with
some momentum to make it up,... all the kids in the back would be
cheering her on to go faster.;-)


cheers!
e


On 08/Jul/10 06:22, Rich Thomas wrote:
 2 Benzes, and some other greats.  My dad bought a used Vista Cruiser
 back when for car #2, it was cool.

 --R

 http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/07/12-wagons-we-want?pid=21


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Re: [MBZ] Life without an oil cooler

2010-07-09 Thread R A Bennell
Two questions:

Do you have AC and are you using it?

2nd Question, if you do not have working AC do you have the AC aux fan? Put a 
switch in to permit you to manually
turn it on so you have more airflow through the rad.

Also a suggestion to make sure that the main rad fan is working correctly. 
Fluid coupling OK?

Another possible answer if you only have issues during really hot times is to 
put in a simple system to spray some
water onto the rad. I think some people have used a windshield washer setup 
with a pipe accross the top of the rad
with small holes drilled in it. Turn on the pump and spray some water onto the 
rad - should help bring temperatures
down somewhat.

Drag racers used something like this to cool the engine after a run down the 
track. I am sure I saw this in a Car
Craft mag years back.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 5:17 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Life without an oil cooler


Anybody remember that I removed the oil cooler from my 240D? That was last fall 
I think. Well I've been driving
without it (probably 10,000 miles or more) since then and nothing terrible has 
happened. Except lately the temp has
been unacceptably high. Hardly a shocker since we're in the middle of a 
heatwave.
With the outside temp in the mid to high 90's I couldn't really drive over 
65mph for any prolonged time as the
needle would rise perilously high (who knows how hot exactly, above the 100C 
mark anyway) until I wussed out and
slowed down.

Well rather than put in the new oil cooler I noticed a wet spot on the lower 
radiator hose and yesterday while I
was running errands I stopped at the local CarQuest to see if they had the 
hoses. They had the upper and got me the
lower today. Had a radiator cap too, made in Mexico, nice looking cap. The one 
on the car is so corroded I can't
read it anymore. I put it on 6 or 7 years and ~70,000 miles ago...

I was surprised how little coolant I lost in the replacement, no big whoop. I 
guess its mostly full of G05 now,
I've been doing a running project coolant change changed a bunch when I did 
the water pump (and as it leaked just
before I did the water pump) and more now. What came out was pretty yellow.

Took a little ride and it rose more than I liked, could be just needing to burp 
though, I'll add more once it cools
off and see how it does tomorrow. If its still real hot I'll put the oil cooler 
in.
If the red car were registered I'd just drive that until it cooled off again, 
we won't be at these temps for too
much longer. ;) Heck I may put the new oil cooler in no matter what just since 
I've got it. Or not, it depends on
how hot it is Saturday.

-Curt




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Re: [MBZ] Mitchel 300D engine cheatsheet (pdf)

2010-07-09 Thread Mountain Man
Max wrote:
 Neat stuff, I'd love to have same for my '87 wagon, engine is OM603.960.

Yes - and also needed is the 616 engine cheat sheet, although the 617
is just one cylinder more... so maybe it works fine... generally.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Mitchel 300D engine cheatsheet (pdf)

2010-07-09 Thread ernest breakfield

this is pretty cool, though it's for the 617.912 (non-turbo).
if we could get one of these for the turbo-diesel (617.952), that would 
be *super* cool! ;-)



cheers!
e


On 08/Jul/10 10:21, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Found this today, figured someone else might find it useful.

I can possibly grab ones for other years/models as well.

Walt
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Re: [MBZ] Mitchel 300D engine cheatsheet (pdf)

2010-07-09 Thread R A Bennell
How close is this to the engine in the 115? My guess is pretty close. I assume 
that the 123 has the oil filter
housing up top but apart from that probably not much difference.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Walt Zarnoch
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:21 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Mitchel 300D engine cheatsheet (pdf)


Found this today, figured someone else might find it useful.

I can possibly grab ones for other years/models as well.

Walt
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[MBZ] OT A Toyota Fun Ride

2010-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas

http://www.durangoherald.com/sections/News/2010/07/09/Driver_survives_cars_496foot_plunge_off_Red_Mountain_Pass/

--R

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Re: [MBZ] OT A Toyota Fun Ride

2010-07-09 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
http://www.durangoherald.com/sections/News/2010/07/09/Driver_survives_cars_496foot_plunge_off_Red_Mountain_Pass/ 


The less often it rains, the more slippery the roads are when it does rain.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT A Toyota Fun Ride

2010-07-09 Thread Rolf Martin-Hoster
Now if they could only figure out how to build that kind of safety to 
the Lexus LFA rimshot


-Rolf

Mitch Haley wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:
http://www.durangoherald.com/sections/News/2010/07/09/Driver_survives_cars_496foot_plunge_off_Red_Mountain_Pass/ 



The less often it rains, the more slippery the roads are when it does 
rain.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread MG
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the 
tool for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago when 
I needed to replace a clutch on a compressor.


Manfred



Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:47:34 -0400
From: archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re:  High pressure A/C leak?


 The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty.  You 
can remove

 the clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car.
 Theoretically you could replace just the seal underneath 
leaving the
 compressor in the car, but you may end up removing the 
radiator in order

 to get clearance.
 -Max
 
Doesn't look like there would be room without removing the 
radiator on the

300D; maybe on the 240D.  The special tool sounds like it would be a
worthwhile investment.
Thanks,
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] It's always something...

2010-07-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Jill called me at lunch from the library parking lot, and said that the
560SL battery (that went through Hell with the alternator incident) made
a big 'pop' noise when she went to start the car, and fluid started
dripping out of the back.  (It also wouldn't start, and had been
getting difficult to start recently, and could sometimes barely turn
over though the voltage and charge state always seemed OK.)  Sheesh!
I got there and opened it up, and the newly-repaired battery box had
contained all the acid from the 8-year-old NAPA battery's case blowing
open!  It had cracks and fractures all over the place, and had leaked
thoroughly.  We got a pan of water and sluiced it off before lifting
it out onto the ground, and diluted the acid stream that was running
away from the car.  I put the battery on one of the rubber winter
floor mats in the trunk of my car, and we went off to Les Schwab where
we bought another Group 49 battery for $108.  (I washed off the floor
mat with their hose.)  It installed easily enough into the car, but
the cables didn't reach well and I didn't have time to fuss with it.
(It's possible that the new battery is a bit shorter than the old
one.)  It got her home, anyway, but the car wouldn't start again
because the positive cable had popped off sometime along the way.  The
battery box and the lid have some new cracks in them, so I'll have to
do some more gluing too.

Exploding battery, that's a first for me.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread Russ Williams

They have to tool.
Don't try to remove the clutch on a R4 without it. DAMHIK

Russ W.

MG wrote:
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the tool 
for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago when I needed 
to replace a clutch on a compressor.


Manfred



Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:47:34 -0400
From: archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re:  High pressure A/C leak?


 The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty.  You can 
remove

 the clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car.
 Theoretically you could replace just the seal underneath leaving the
 compressor in the car, but you may end up removing the radiator in 
order

 to get clearance.
 -Max
 
Doesn't look like there would be room without removing the radiator on 
the

300D; maybe on the 240D.  The special tool sounds like it would be a
worthwhile investment.
Thanks,
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread archer
Good idea, Manfred; never thought of that.  I've borrowed a number of tools 
from Autozone.
They might even be able to order the seal.  Rusty doesn't carry them and GM 
dealer has to order them for $45.

Thanks,
Gerry


Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the
tool for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago when
I needed to replace a clutch on a compressor.
Manfred



 The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty.  You
can remove
 the clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car.
 Theoretically you could replace just the seal underneath
leaving the
 compressor in the car, but you may end up removing the
radiator in order
 to get clearance.
 -Max
 
Doesn't look like there would be room without removing the
radiator on the
300D; maybe on the 240D.  The special tool sounds like it would be a
worthwhile investment.
Thanks,
Gerry
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Re: [MBZ] It's always something...

2010-07-09 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:


Exploding battery, that's a first for me.


And, IIRC, charging voltage was reasonable when you tested it.
I'd still test the charging just to be safe.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] High pressure A/C leak?

2010-07-09 Thread archer

Thanks, Russ.  Good abbreviation.
Gerry
---


They have to tool.
Don't try to remove the clutch on a R4 without it. DAMHIK
Russ W.

MG wrote:
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the tool 
for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago when I needed 
to replace a clutch on a compressor.

Manfred



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Re: [MBZ] It's always something...

2010-07-09 Thread Dieselhead
I had a battery on a piece of equipment blow up in my face many moons 
ago.  We had jumped the battery, and when we disconnected the 
jumpers, the spark ignited the hydrogen gas from the battery, which 
was now charging.
Ever since then, I am very careful to hook up the last connection as 
a ground far away from the dead battery, and it is the first one to 
be disconnected.


There must have been hydrogen gas and a spark.  The hydrogen gas may 
have been in the battery box from when she was driving the car.  The 
spark came when she tried to start the car.






Jill called me at lunch from the library parking lot, and said that the
560SL battery (that went through Hell with the alternator incident) made
a big 'pop' noise when she went to start the car, and fluid started
dripping out of the back.  (It also wouldn't start, and had been
getting difficult to start recently, and could sometimes barely turn
over though the voltage and charge state always seemed OK.)  Sheesh!
I got there and opened it up, and the newly-repaired battery box had
contained all the acid from the 8-year-old NAPA battery's case blowing
open!  It had cracks and fractures all over the place, and had leaked
thoroughly.  We got a pan of water and sluiced it off before lifting
it out onto the ground, and diluted the acid stream that was running
away from the car.  I put the battery on one of the rubber winter
floor mats in the trunk of my car, and we went off to Les Schwab where
we bought another Group 49 battery for $108.  (I washed off the floor
mat with their hose.)  It installed easily enough into the car, but
the cables didn't reach well and I didn't have time to fuss with it.
(It's possible that the new battery is a bit shorter than the old
one.)  It got her home, anyway, but the car wouldn't start again
because the positive cable had popped off sometime along the way.  The
battery box and the lid have some new cracks in them, so I'll have to
do some more gluing too.

Exploding battery, that's a first for me.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] 03 S430

2010-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas
My buddy is going to be buying an Audi A8 sometime in the next few 
months.  Car is in perfect condition, 52k miles.  I am thinking about 
$15k plus something for the 100k ext warranty?  I might consider it, 
though with the SD and other cars, it would not be a popular choice at 
this time.  And some friends came over the other evening with their 
SL500, and mama was gaga over it.  (I must admit my lust as well)


---R

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[MBZ] OT CL poster of the week

2010-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas

Notice anything familiar?

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1834374642.html

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1834334118.html

--R

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[MBZ] These would look good on a SDL

2010-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas

http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1833697723.html

--R

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[MBZ] CL photog of the week

2010-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas

http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1832837612.html

Looks good!

--R

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Re: [MBZ] CL photog of the week

2010-07-09 Thread Dave Cavner
This one might have it beat.
http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/1834666383.html

Dave


On Jul 9, 2010, at 8:10 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1832837612.html
 
 Looks good!
 
 —R



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Re: [MBZ] These would look good on a SDL

2010-07-09 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 09 Jul 2010 23:08:11 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1833697723.html

Ick! Wretch! Patooey!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] It's always something...

2010-07-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Exploding battery, that's a first for me.


And, IIRC, charging voltage was reasonable when you tested it.
I'd still test the charging just to be safe.


It was 14.03V when I tested it after putting the new one in.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] It's always something...

2010-07-09 Thread Jim Cathey
There must have been hydrogen gas and a spark.  The hydrogen gas may 
have been in the battery box from when she was driving the car.  The 
spark came when she tried to start the car.


H2 had to be inside the battery, as did the spark.  The box was
just fine, but the battery case itself was fractured.

-- Jim



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