Re: [MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread TE
Not at all and it's a great suggestion. I purchased my AMG Monoblock II's
off of eBay, where they had minor cosmetic damage (chipped paint, very light
curb rash, etc.) I took them to Prince Wheel Services in Monroe, NC, where
they did a fantastic job on powder coating them.

Justin Prince, the proprietor, has several color chips that we matched
perfectly (incandescent light color, fluorescent light color, metallic flake
amount, etc.) to the original astral silver color of the new center caps I
bought for the wheels at the dealership.


For $130 per wheel, they measured the run out, roundness, etc. of each wheel
to make sure they were perfect. After stripping the original paint and
lightly machining the aluminum lip, the wheels were powder coated (minus the
lip) and then given a final clear powder coat of the entire wheel. The
result was a perfect, brand new set of AMG wheels, inside and out.

Don't look for a super easy job in cleaning though, as brake dust won't
simply hose off of anything. However, minimal effort with a wet sponge
brings them back to new again.

Trust me, from a guy who tried refinishing a set of Bundts, the $130 per
wheel is cheaper than the time and materials you will spend doing it
yourself.

TE

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 10:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel color

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 3:21 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I decided to get the NAPA silver wheel paint and just paint the set. Less
> hassle than trying to find the "right" color.
>

What about powder coating?  There are a couple of outfits near me that
advertise that they will powder coat a set of wheels for $200,
including a solvent dip and bead-blast beforehand (and they have
plenty of shades of gray available).  Seems like it'd be worth it to
avoid spending hours scrubbing away brake dust and hand-sanding all
the little holes in a bundt or 15-hole pancake wheel.  Anyone know any
reason why powder coating would be a bad idea?

Alex

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[MBZ] W115 "sat for 20 plus years but it runs good"

2010-08-17 Thread Allan Streib
"easy restore"   http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/1899738988.html

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[MBZ] CL Photographer of the week

2010-08-17 Thread Allan Streib
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/1903796527.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Why build this and "don't drive it in the mud or snow"

2010-08-17 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Same reason you see lifted lincoln SUV's on twenies with spinners, winches,
sliders, black-hole tint, and leather seats.

Walt

On Aug 17, 2010 11:43 PM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/1904659520.html


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Re: [MBZ] Old FSM CD-ROM availability [was: ML320 status]

2010-08-17 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:54:30 -0700 Alex Chamberlain
 wrote:

> On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Craig McCluskey
>  wrote:
> > On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 00:06:59 -0700 Alex Chamberlain
> >  wrote:
> >
> >> http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9124/?requestedDocId=9124
> >>
> > No listing for 124 nor 126.
> 
> That's because cars before 1995 or so are under the purview of the M-B
> Classic Center:
> 
> http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/MB/
> 
> I bought the W116 CD-ROM not long ago (I don't have a 116, but the
> info on the 6.9's suspension is applicable to my 500SEL), and it is
> still listed as available, but the 124 and 126 CDs apparently are
> not---so you can BitTorrent them, or ask someone here off-list to burn
> a copy for you, with a clear conscience.

Yes, indeed, the only thing available for a '94 E420 is a reproduction
Technical Data Book. I got my copy of the W124 service manual digitally
from John Robbins.


Craig

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[MBZ] OT: Why build this and "don't drive it in the mud or snow"

2010-08-17 Thread Allan Streib
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/1904659520.html


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Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:39:02 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Robert Bigham
 wrote:

> Removal of the thermostat should not have a material effect on the path 
> coolant; otherwise running without thermostat would be engine death, 
> which it is not, as all know. Removal of thermostat generally results 
> in overcooling.

This is NOT true for Mercedes. A Mercedes thermostat has TWO plates to
block water passages. With the thermostat installed and closed, the front
plate blocks coolant flow through the radiator, so it has to go through
the block. With the thermostat open, the back plate blocks coolant flow
through the block, so it has to go through the radiator. Without the back
plate blocking flow to the block, very little coolant will go through the
radiator because the flow through the block is easier.

You cannot just remove a Mercedes thermostat; you have to forcibly block
it open so the back plate blocks coolant flow to the block.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 3:21 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I decided to get the NAPA silver wheel paint and just paint the set. Less
> hassle than trying to find the "right" color.
>

What about powder coating?  There are a couple of outfits near me that
advertise that they will powder coat a set of wheels for $200,
including a solvent dip and bead-blast beforehand (and they have
plenty of shades of gray available).  Seems like it'd be worth it to
avoid spending hours scrubbing away brake dust and hand-sanding all
the little holes in a bundt or 15-hole pancake wheel.  Anyone know any
reason why powder coating would be a bad idea?

Alex

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[MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread Dieselhead

Anybody got the paint code for 15 hole wheels and/or 8 hole wheels?


From Paintchip.com, it looks like the number is G8081.  Anyone know 
if this is right for 8 hole wheels?


All the FLAPS computers (in town)  say there is no such number as 
G8081  They had the 3 digit Glasurit paint numbers and a few 4 digit 
numbers, but no 8081


I decided to get the NAPA silver wheel paint and just paint the set. 
Less hassle than trying to find the "right" color.


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Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Peter Frederick
OK, after rooting around for a while, I found the M103 coolant  
system.  I assume this is very similar to the M102.


Water pump forces water into the block from EITHER lower radiator  
hose (cold side) OR directly from head.  Thermostat determines which  
what the water goes -- when closed, water re-enters the pump through  
the bottom opening in the thermostat housing, when open, the back  
flap on the thermostat closes the return off and water is forced out  
through the top of the thermostat and into the radiator.


If there is no flap on the back of the thermostat, and many  
aftermarket ones don't have one, or it's too large, too small, or has  
a hole in it, coolant will circulate around the engine and never  
enter the radiator.


Removing the thermostat, or replacing it with an open one minus the  
flap on the back will result in serious overheating.  Period.


On top of that, removing the thermostat on most engines results in  
serious overheating because the coolant circulates too fast -- no  
time for it to loose heat across the radiator!


I would do the following:

Remove the lower radiator hose and verify that it is not collapsed or  
plugged somehow.  Re-install.


Buy a thermostat from the dealer for your engine.  You can use  
Fastlane at PeachParts or Rusty, but it must be and OEM, not from a  
parts store.  Behr or Whaler only, any other name brand is almost  
certainly wrong.  I've seen them all, they are all bunk.


Test, or better yet, replace your coolant tank cap.  Must hold 20 psi.

Pressure test the system.  Must hold 20 psi.

Test engine fan clutch (electric on the M102, often fails and you  
have NO fan, hence it overheats.


Last, if nothing else works, remove the water pump and see if it's  
plugged or has a loose or damaged impeller.  Unlikely, but it has  
happened to a friend of mine, defective in the box.


I repeat -- the intake from the head to the water pump in the  
thermostat housing MUST be closed off by the flap on the back of the  
thermostat as it opens.  If this opening is not sealed by that flap,  
coolant will NOT circulate to the radiator, no matter what else you do.


Peter

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[MBZ] New speakers

2010-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
Speakers are one of those things where you didn't realize how bad they were 
until you replace them.
The new Pioneers ($40 shipped from an Amazon seller) are sweet, sound sweet, 
fit in the holes on the back deck sweet and best of all worked nicely with the 
old speaker grills. I never did paint the grills and I'm not sure I want to, 
they'd look too perfect if I did, I like them scuffed up...
Anyway the kit came with some very nice speaker wires that I scabbed onto the 
existing wires to use the nice connectors, easy job ~10 minutes...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Have you guys seen this new hotness for the W124?

2010-08-17 Thread Rolf
 I ask because I have seen nothing about w124 having them. So I am not 
sure if you are referring to the shims or spring buffers that I have yet 
to see. Of course there are some issues that cannot be easily overcome 
in these older cars , but really you are putting too much magic into 
this. The spring manufacturers set these cars up and test them. I can 
get Bilstein and progressive rate lowering springs (which your beloved 
OE sportline wont have from what I have read) for 2/3 to 3/4 of the cost 
of a OE sportline cost.


-Rolf

On 8/17/2010 3:29 PM, Rolf wrote:

What do you mean by spring buffers?

-Rolf


On 08/17/2010 01:52 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 10:31 AM, Rolf  wrote:

What exactly do you mean by wheel geometry?

-Rolf

Change in suspension measurements, including but not limited to those
that are part of an alignment job, during changes in suspension load,
steering angle, and slip angle.  It's dynamic rather than static.

Wheel or suspension geometry is the reason why "upgrading" suspension
parts ad hoc is a bad idea.  The suspension of the 124 was carefully
designed to behave a certain way in use.  If you want to ruin the ride
and handling of the car, by all means slap some shorter springs and
stiffer shocks on it.  If you want to do it right, change over to
Sportline parts, including the proper spring buffers for your car
(which vary by VIN).

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Re: [MBZ] OM602 with SLS

2010-08-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yea I have seen a few of those on ebay

Mitch Haley wrote:
This must be what Ron Dwelle's 190D euro looks like under the hood, 
but I think it's a 250D in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edHzfwo2Utc

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 
91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] What's not to like about this CL MB?

2010-08-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yes, they did.  In other countrys, the 300D 2.5 was referred to as a 250D

Curt Raymond wrote:

Did they really make a 250D? A grey market car if they did.

Still a cool ride, no way it gets 40mpg but I bet it'll do 30-35. If I had that 
kind of money hanging around I'd be all over it.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 19:13:40 -0500
From: Mountain Man 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: [MBZ] What's not to like about this CL MB?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/1890991379.html
mao


  
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3075 - Release Date: 08/16/10 01:35:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 
91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] What's not to like about this CL MB?

2010-08-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

looks nice, and interesting, except for the veggie oil conversion.

Mountain Man wrote:

http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/1890991379.html
mao

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3073 - Release Date: 08/15/10 01:35:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 
91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
I do disagree and if you actually look at an MB thermostat you'll see why.
When the thermostat opens it closes the loop passage in the block, without that 
happening water doesn't take the path to the radiator, it follows the path of 
least resistance through the block. I've driven an '81 300TD with the 
thermostat out, it was fine for ~30 minutes from a cold start, then it would 
overheat. Let it cool off an hour and it would overheat again in ~5 minutes 
every single time.

New thermostat and the problem went away.

If you want to flush an MB cooling system without waiting for the thermostat 
you have to make a piece to hold the thermostat open, gutting it doesn't do 
anything. BTDT.

If you want you can come out here some time and we can pull a thermostat from 
one of my cars and I'll show you. Thats why I said in my message that MB's 
don't cool like other cars.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:39:02 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Robert Bigham 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output
Message-ID:
    <6186523.1282088343022.javamail.r...@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Hello

Thank you for your comment.

I neglected to say that the gutted thermostat was gutted and installed
after
 the new thermostat, which was thought to be the cure of the problem 
(everything else having been thought to be eliminated) did nothing that 
anyone could tell.  

New Wahlert thermostat installed, (opens at 90 deg C  by test)has no  
efffect on overheating that anyone can see.

Without doubt the path of coolant with thermostat installed and working 
should be from the pump toward the back of the block, back to the front
through the head and block, and then out through the open thermostat 
through the top hose to the radiator top tank.  

Removal of the thermostat should not have a material effect on the path 
coolant; otherwise running without thermostat would be engine death, 
which it is not, as all know. Removal of thermostat generally results 
in overcooling.

It is certain the top hose will discharge coolant if the water pump is 
pumping, or I say so.  

Do you agree or disagree?  If you disagree, why?

Thanx  RE Bigham, alter ego and enablere of Edward Baldhead  



  
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[MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Robert Bigham
Hello

Thank you for your comment.

I neglected to say that the gutted thermostat was gutted and installed
after the new thermostat, which was thought to be the cure of the problem 
(everything else having been thought to be eliminated) did nothing that 
anyone could tell.  

New Wahlert thermostat installed, (opens at 90 deg C  by test)has no  
efffect on overheating that anyone can see.

Without doubt the path of coolant with thermostat installed and working 
should be from the pump toward the back of the block, back to the front
through the head and block, and then out through the open thermostat 
through the top hose to the radiator top tank.  

Removal of the thermostat should not have a material effect on the path 
coolant; otherwise running without thermostat would be engine death, 
which it is not, as all know. Removal of thermostat generally results 
in overcooling.

It is certain the top hose will discharge coolant if the water pump is 
pumping, or I say so.  

Do you agree or disagree?  If you disagree, why?

Thanx  RE Bigham, alter ego and enablere of Edward Baldhead  

Message: 13
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:10:26 -0400
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,   53310"

Subject: Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output


If you have a good thermostat installed, all water pump output would
stay within the engine and I would not expect anything to come out of
the top radiator hose until normal engine temperature was reached and
the t-stat opened.

If the car has your gutted t-stat with hole installed, all bets are off
as to where the water pump output would go.  Some would probably flow
out the top radiator hose.

-Max

-Original Message-
Robert Bigham
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 3:04 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

Hello all

Engine 102.980

Has anyone else had overheating from no waterpump output?  

I like to never found the cause of my overheating.  Mercifully, it's a
hot weather thing only.  You might not beleive some of the speculations
as to the cause. 

Not the radiator.  New a year or so back; came from the 
fatherland.   20 deg drop from head to bottom inlet on pump.
Water pump Meyle new at same time. Not the cap; same reason as radiator.
Not thermostat; same reason. 

No loss of coolant. Temperature gauge moves inexorably toward the top,
particularly at low speed/idle.  Does not reach red mark (shut off
first). No coolant loss.  

Laser thermometer says temperature gauge in dash essentially correct.
Radiator tubes or heat exchanger fins not blocked anywhere. Stop engine,
it depressurizes and cools off pretty quickly.  

Gutted old thermostat to make gasketed plate with hole about
1 in. diameter: made it worse if anything.

Finally, disconnect top hose at radiator, lay it on top of tank, block
top radiator nozzle, top up coolant, start engine.

No water pump output.  Problem found.  How did this happen?  
Pump makes no noise; seems OK until shown to have no output.
Pump not off yet.  Several are interested to see it when it comes off. 

Argh!



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread Larry T

Here's what Eastwood sells - their products are always 1st class - IMO -
http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=WHEEL+PAINT&x=7&y=15&p=Q&ts=custom

Good Luck - 
LarryT

91 300D

"In God We Trust"

--
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 1:56 PM
To: 
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel color


Anybody got the paint code for 15 hole wheels and/or 8 hole wheels?

From Paintchip.com, it looks like the number is G8081.  Anyone know 
if this is right for 8 hole wheels?


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Re: [MBZ] SILLY

2010-08-17 Thread RELNGSON
> www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f9/see-through-tires-134681/..
> 
Pointless and ugly. These pics have been floating around for years.

RLE 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread LWB250
Wurth used to sell the paint in rattle cans.  Might want to Google Wurth and 
wheel paint and see what comes up.

I used it several times and then shot the wheels with Minwax clear spar 
varnish.  I know that one set of wheels I did this to held up quite well in 
northern NY winters, according to Marshall.  He saw them a number of times over 
the years and reported their condition back to me.

Dan

--- On Tue, 8/17/10, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
> Subject: [MBZ] Wheel color
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 1:56 PM
> Anybody got the paint code for 15
> hole wheels and/or 8 hole wheels?
> 
> From Paintchip.com, it looks like the number is
> G8081.  Anyone know if this is right for 8 hole
> wheels?
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


  


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)

2010-08-17 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Maybe it needed an engine and he put an OM601 in it?

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 4:57 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)

I'd bet this one is the guy who bought the engine from my 190D. He tried to
sell me this car. I don't remember what he said about it but there was
something significantly wrong...

He seemed like a fair schyster.

-Curt

enz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Peter Frederick
There must be a valve flap on the back of the thermostat, or the recirculation 
passage will be open and coolant will only circulate around the engine block.  
If this flap is missing or does not fit the hole, the car will slowly (or 
quickly) overheat.

If you put in a restriction plate, you will fry the engine as NO coolant will 
circulate through the radiator -- the recirculation passages have lower back 
pressure.

I would inspect tbe water pump though -- strange things happen, like malformed 
vanes or the impeller on backwards (or missing).

Also make positively certain that the radiator fan clutch engages -- slow 
overheat at idle or low speed is often inadequate air flow through the rad.  
Ditto for the presence and condition of the fan shroud.

Peter


-Original Message-
>From: Curt Raymond 
>Sent: Aug 17, 2010 4:55 PM
>To: Diesel List 
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output
>
>Did you block the thermostat open or just put a hole in it? Did you let the 
>car warm up during this test?
>
>MB thermostats are not like other thermostats, and MB cooling systems don't 
>work like other cooling systems. A hole in the thermostat does not mean 
>coolant is circulating, the car can still overheat. If you block the 
>thermostat open it'll force coolant through the radiator...
>
>IIRC there are some waterpumps with cheaper vanes that sheer off, or maybe 
>you've just got a defective one? It happens...
>
>-Curt
>
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:04:03 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>From: Robert Bigham 
>To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>Subject: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output
>Message-ID:
>    <1914765.1282071845367.javamail.r...@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
>    
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
>Hello all
>
>Engine 102.980
>
>Has anyone else had overheating from no waterpump output?  
>
>I like to never found the cause of my overheating.  Mercifully,
>it's a hot weather thing only.  You might not beleive some of 
>the speculations as to the cause. 
>
>Not the radiator.  New a year or so back; came from the 
>fatherland.   20 deg drop from head to bottom inlet on pump.
>Water pump Meyle new at same time. Not the cap; same reason as 
>radiator.  Not thermostat; same reason. 
>
>No loss of coolant. Temperature gauge moves inexorably toward 
>the top, particularly at low speed/idle.  Does not reach red 
>mark (shut off first). No coolant loss.  
>
>Laser thermometer says temperature gauge in dash essentially 
>correct.  Radiator tubes or heat exchanger fins not blocked 
>anywhere. Stop engine, it depressurizes and cools off pretty 
>quickly.  
>
>Gutted old thermostat to make gasketed plate with hole about 
>1 in. diameter: made it worse if anything.
>
>Finally, disconnect top hose at radiator, lay it on top of 
>tank, block top radiator nozzle, top up coolant, start engine.
>
>No water pump output.  Problem found.  How did this happen?  
>Pump makes no noise; seems OK until shown to have no output.
>Pump not off yet.  Several are interested to see it when it 
>comes off. 
>
>Argh!
>
>
>
>  
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] ACC Buttons - back lights

2010-08-17 Thread John Reames
And only use the proper rusty-supplied (or dealer supplied) bulbs. The 
aftermarket ones run too hot and will melt the bulb holders and the light 
pipes...

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jul 16, 2010, at 21:49, LWB250  wrote:

> BZZZT!  WRONG!
> 
> It's been a while.
> 
> After looking at the photos, I forgot that the ACC has indirect lighting, so 
> all you have to do is replace the two lamps on the top of the PB assembly.  
> There are also separate lamps for the temperature dial and fan speed buttons 
> as well, so be sure to replace them, too.
> 
> Check out the details at:
> 
> http://gallery.me.com/dpenoff#100243
> 
> Let me know if you have any questions.
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> --- On Fri, 7/16/10, LWB250  wrote:
> 
>> From: LWB250 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] ACC Buttons - back lights
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>> Date: Friday, July 16, 2010, 9:40 PM
>> You'll have to remove the pushbutton
>> module and pull the buttons off.
>> 
>> Give me a few minutes and I'll upload some pictures to my
>> web site.  I've documented the complete R&R of a
>> pushbutton unit for the later (horizontal) ACC system.
>> 
>> In that tear down you'll see how to remove the buttons and
>> where the lamps are located.  Might as well buy a whole
>> set since you'll be in there.  That's what I always
>> did...
>> 
>> More in a few, as I am updating my web site as it is right
>> now.  Good timing on your part!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- On Fri, 7/16/10, LarryT 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> From: LarryT 
>>> Subject: [MBZ] ACC Buttons - back lights
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>> Date: Friday, July 16, 2010, 9:31 PM
>>> Hi Gang
>>> The push buttons on my ACC panel (91 300D) used to
>> have
>>> lights - I need to find how to replace the bulb/s -
>>> 
>>> Have searched the manual without any luck -
>>> 
>>> Suggestions?  Thx -
>>> LarryT
>>> 91 300D 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>>   
>> 
>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] How to start a very dormant W123 turbodiesel

2010-08-17 Thread John Reames
the head swap should be no worse than a head gasket replacement... But I can 
understand your concerns about getting cruft in the bores...

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jul 16, 2010, at 15:12, andrew strasfogel  wrote:

> I've already eliminated a head swap as too risky to attempt by anyone but a
> pro.  Besides, I love the idea of scavenging another parts car.
> 
> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 1:56 PM, Fmiser  wrote:
> 
>>> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>> 
>>> I'm negotiating to purchase a scrap-grade 1985 300TD that was
>>> totaled back in 2004. The car is virtually complete, although
>>> all I really crave is a decent 300TD engine to transplant into
>>> my 1985 300 pseudo-TD.  Transport on a flatbed would probably
>>> be under $300.
>>> 
>>> The vehicle "ran well" at the time of the collision (so the
>>> story goes).  As the other driver was clearly at fault, the
>>> owner received a generous settlement and also kept the car in
>>> his yard for the past 6 years. Unfortunately, he cannot
>>> jump-start it now.
>>> 
>>> I am wondering whether I should take a chance on the car -
>>> what could I do differently to get the motor running?  Is
>>> there a procedure to follow to start a long-dormant
>>> turbodiesel?  Would fuel flow have something to do with it?
>> 
>> Possibly.  Try a fresh reserve of fuel patched in at the
>> prefilter under the hood - like the procedure for Diesel Purge.
>> Or even use Diesel Purge.
>> 
>>> Would a new battery potentially get it started (as opposed to
>>> a jump start)?
>> 
>> The engine requires a lot of current. Unless the jumper cables
>> are Monster Cable, odds are the voltage drop caused by the small
>> cable will drop the voltage at the starter motor so much in
>> won't really spin fast enough.  And if the old battery was left
>> in, it too would contribute to voltage drop.
>> 
>> A strong battery in the battery box may be all it needs.
>> 
>>> In a worst case scenario it will NEVER start
>>> due to low compression, but given the low price he's asking
>>> Ihe would not want to take the time to perform a compression
>>> test for me.
>> 
>> But even if the compression is low, it still has the head with
>> the pump - so you could swap heads and get your SLS working.
>> 
>> --  Philip
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)

2010-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
I'd bet this one is the guy who bought the engine from my 190D. He tried to 
sell me this car. I don't remember what he said about it but there was 
something significantly wrong...

He seemed like a fair schyster.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:25:34 -0400
From: Frederick W Moir 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: [MBZ] Fwd: Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)
Message-ID: <4c6ae22e.2040...@verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Not mine either.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Klatta on!

 Original Message 
Subject:     Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)
Date:     Tue, 17 Aug 2010 12:23:14 -0700 (PDT)
From:     fred.s...@yahoo.com
To:     fred.s...@verizon.net



fred.s...@yahoo.com has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at 
http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1902675060.html to contact the 
person who posted this.




    Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel

Date: 2010-08-16, 7:55PM

Beaufiful 1987 Mercedes 300SDL 290K Miles runs and drive good. $900CASH
The negatives;
2 windows and blower not working
Need a rear muffler
The Positives
Nice , Nice body
Almost no rust
No accident
Excellent engine !!!
$900.00
Must sell, NO MAIL, I DONT HAVE TIME FOR SPAMMER AND PARASITES !!!
S E R I O U S ONLY 518 335 0438


    * Location: Plattsburgh
    * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
      commercial interests

Original URL: http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1902675060.html


  
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Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
Did you block the thermostat open or just put a hole in it? Did you let the car 
warm up during this test?

MB thermostats are not like other thermostats, and MB cooling systems don't 
work like other cooling systems. A hole in the thermostat does not mean coolant 
is circulating, the car can still overheat. If you block the thermostat open 
it'll force coolant through the radiator...

IIRC there are some waterpumps with cheaper vanes that sheer off, or maybe 
you've just got a defective one? It happens...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:04:03 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Robert Bigham 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output
Message-ID:
    <1914765.1282071845367.javamail.r...@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Hello all

Engine 102.980

Has anyone else had overheating from no waterpump output?  

I like to never found the cause of my overheating.  Mercifully,
it's a hot weather thing only.  You might not beleive some of 
the speculations as to the cause. 

Not the radiator.  New a year or so back; came from the 
fatherland.   20 deg drop from head to bottom inlet on pump.
Water pump Meyle new at same time. Not the cap; same reason as 
radiator.  Not thermostat; same reason. 

No loss of coolant. Temperature gauge moves inexorably toward 
the top, particularly at low speed/idle.  Does not reach red 
mark (shut off first). No coolant loss.  

Laser thermometer says temperature gauge in dash essentially 
correct.  Radiator tubes or heat exchanger fins not blocked 
anywhere. Stop engine, it depressurizes and cools off pretty 
quickly.  

Gutted old thermostat to make gasketed plate with hole about 
1 in. diameter: made it worse if anything.

Finally, disconnect top hose at radiator, lay it on top of 
tank, block top radiator nozzle, top up coolant, start engine.

No water pump output.  Problem found.  How did this happen?  
Pump makes no noise; seems OK until shown to have no output.
Pump not off yet.  Several are interested to see it when it 
comes off. 

Argh!



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread Larry T
Here's the Wurth Paint that matches the OEM paint.  Not sure about the PN - 
but the look is right --


Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D


"In God We Trust"

--
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 1:56 PM
To: 
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel color


Anybody got the paint code for 15 hole wheels and/or 8 hole wheels?

From Paintchip.com, it looks like the number is G8081.  Anyone know if 
this is right for 8 hole wheels?


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)

2010-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 12:25 PM, Frederick W Moir
 wrote:
>  http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1902675060.html
>

"No time for parasites?"  But that huge trunk is just right for my
tapeworm collection!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Mercedes 300 TD - $200 (Shelburne )

2010-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley


Cool. I hear Curt is looking for a 240D turbo engine.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Have you guys seen this new hotness for the W124?

2010-08-17 Thread Rolf

What do you mean by spring buffers?

-Rolf


On 08/17/2010 01:52 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 10:31 AM, Rolf  wrote:
   

What exactly do you mean by wheel geometry?

-Rolf
 

Change in suspension measurements, including but not limited to those
that are part of an alignment job, during changes in suspension load,
steering angle, and slip angle.  It's dynamic rather than static.

Wheel or suspension geometry is the reason why "upgrading" suspension
parts ad hoc is a bad idea.  The suspension of the 124 was carefully
designed to behave a certain way in use.  If you want to ruin the ride
and handling of the car, by all means slap some shorter springs and
stiffer shocks on it.  If you want to do it right, change over to
Sportline parts, including the proper spring buffers for your car
(which vary by VIN).

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[MBZ] Fwd: Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)

2010-08-17 Thread Frederick W Moir

Not mine either.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Klatta on!

 Original Message 
Subject:Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel - $900 (Plattsburgh)
Date:   Tue, 17 Aug 2010 12:23:14 -0700 (PDT)
From:   fred.s...@yahoo.com
To: fred.s...@verizon.net



fred.s...@yahoo.com has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at 
http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1902675060.html to contact the 
person who posted this.





   Mercedes 300SDL Turbo Diesel

Date: 2010-08-16, 7:55PM

Beaufiful 1987 Mercedes 300SDL 290K Miles runs and drive good. $900CASH
The negatives;
2 windows and blower not working
Need a rear muffler
The Positives
Nice , Nice body
Almost no rust
No accident
Excellent engine !!!
$900.00
Must sell, NO MAIL, I DONT HAVE TIME FOR SPAMMER AND PARASITES !!!
S E R I O U S ONLY 518 335 0438


   * Location: Plattsburgh
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
 commercial interests

Original URL: http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1902675060.html



/this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our
email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to:
/http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/lJnZz5CZyFGdlZHQ6lmcu42b0VmbG


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Mercedes 300 TD - $200 (Shelburne )

2010-08-17 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Yes, I wonder why all the good deals up there...

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 3:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Mercedes 300 TD - $200 (Shelburne )

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 12:00 PM, Frederick W Moir
 wrote:
>  http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1901198649.html

Why are these kind of deals always on the other side of the country from
me?

I could really use the spare transmission vacuum doohickeys and
thingamabobs to help diagnose my '87, which is shifting harshly yet
again...

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
If you have a good thermostat installed, all water pump output would
stay within the engine and I would not expect anything to come out of
the top radiator hose until normal engine temperature was reached and
the t-stat opened.

If the car has your gutted t-stat with hole installed, all bets are off
as to where the water pump output would go.  Some would probably flow
out the top radiator hose.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 3:04 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

Hello all

Engine 102.980

Has anyone else had overheating from no waterpump output?  

I like to never found the cause of my overheating.  Mercifully, it's a
hot weather thing only.  You might not beleive some of the speculations
as to the cause. 

Not the radiator.  New a year or so back; came from the 
fatherland.   20 deg drop from head to bottom inlet on pump.
Water pump Meyle new at same time. Not the cap; same reason as radiator.
Not thermostat; same reason. 

No loss of coolant. Temperature gauge moves inexorably toward the top,
particularly at low speed/idle.  Does not reach red mark (shut off
first). No coolant loss.  

Laser thermometer says temperature gauge in dash essentially correct.
Radiator tubes or heat exchanger fins not blocked anywhere. Stop engine,
it depressurizes and cools off pretty quickly.  

Gutted old thermostat to make gasketed plate with hole about
1 in. diameter: made it worse if anything.

Finally, disconnect top hose at radiator, lay it on top of tank, block
top radiator nozzle, top up coolant, start engine.

No water pump output.  Problem found.  How did this happen?  
Pump makes no noise; seems OK until shown to have no output.
Pump not off yet.  Several are interested to see it when it comes off. 

Argh!



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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Mercedes 300 TD - $200 (Shelburne )

2010-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 12:00 PM, Frederick W Moir
 wrote:
>  http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1901198649.html

Why are these kind of deals always on the other side of the country from me?

I could really use the spare transmission vacuum doohickeys and
thingamabobs to help diagnose my '87, which is shifting harshly yet
again...

Alex

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[MBZ] Overheating - proven to be lack of waterpump output

2010-08-17 Thread Robert Bigham
Hello all

Engine 102.980

Has anyone else had overheating from no waterpump output?  

I like to never found the cause of my overheating.  Mercifully,
it's a hot weather thing only.  You might not beleive some of 
the speculations as to the cause. 

Not the radiator.  New a year or so back; came from the 
fatherland.   20 deg drop from head to bottom inlet on pump.
Water pump Meyle new at same time. Not the cap; same reason as 
radiator.  Not thermostat; same reason. 

No loss of coolant. Temperature gauge moves inexorably toward 
the top, particularly at low speed/idle.  Does not reach red 
mark (shut off first). No coolant loss.  

Laser thermometer says temperature gauge in dash essentially 
correct.  Radiator tubes or heat exchanger fins not blocked 
anywhere. Stop engine, it depressurizes and cools off pretty 
quickly.  

Gutted old thermostat to make gasketed plate with hole about 
1 in. diameter: made it worse if anything.

Finally, disconnect top hose at radiator, lay it on top of 
tank, block top radiator nozzle, top up coolant, start engine.

No water pump output.  Problem found.  How did this happen?  
Pump makes no noise; seems OK until shown to have no output.
Pump not off yet.  Several are interested to see it when it 
comes off. 

Argh!



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[MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Mercedes 300 TD - $200 (Shelburne )

2010-08-17 Thread Frederick W Moir

Not Mine etc.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

 Original Message 
Subject:1987 Mercedes 300 TD - $200 (Shelburne )
Date:   Tue, 17 Aug 2010 11:58:40 -0700 (PDT)
From:   fred.s...@yahoo.com
To: fred.s...@verizon.net



fred.s...@yahoo.com has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at 
http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1901198649.html to contact the 
person who posted this.





   1987 Mercedes 300 TD

Date: 2010-08-16, 8:11AM

Got rear-ended this winter no time to fix 87 MB 300 turbo runs great 
144K on the ticker front half of car usable AC still works good drivable 
!back is pretty well smashed no low ballers please I know what this is 
worth. Need to get off of property ASAP NEEDS TO GO!!! make offer FAST 
or it goes to the salvage yard by the weekend! $ 300 B.O.
NEEDS TO GO ! LAST CHANCE! I NEED THIS GONE !!! P.S. If I don't 
contact you its MY choice!!! after all this is America and I can do what 
I want!!


   * Location: Shelburne
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
 commercial interests

Original URL: http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1901198649.html



/this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our
email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to:
/http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/lJnZz5CZyFGdlZHQ6lmcu42b0VmbG


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[MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread Dieselhead

Anybody got the paint code for 15 hole wheels and/or 8 hole wheels?

From Paintchip.com, it looks like the number is G8081.  Anyone know 
if this is right for 8 hole wheels?


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Re: [MBZ] Have you guys seen this new hotness for the W124?

2010-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 10:31 AM, Rolf  wrote:
> What exactly do you mean by wheel geometry?
>
> -Rolf

Change in suspension measurements, including but not limited to those
that are part of an alignment job, during changes in suspension load,
steering angle, and slip angle.  It's dynamic rather than static.

Wheel or suspension geometry is the reason why "upgrading" suspension
parts ad hoc is a bad idea.  The suspension of the 124 was carefully
designed to behave a certain way in use.  If you want to ruin the ride
and handling of the car, by all means slap some shorter springs and
stiffer shocks on it.  If you want to do it right, change over to
Sportline parts, including the proper spring buffers for your car
(which vary by VIN).

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Re: [MBZ] What to watch out for?

2010-08-17 Thread Allan Streib
Thought for a moment that the 81 300SD was still a W116, but I guess
it's the first year W126.  So maybe there are "early" model issues that
were not sorted out until later years?  I don't know what those might be
specifically.

Allan

Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> writes:

> Yes, the front torsion bar can break, as can anything.  THe 126 is an
> amazing car, even 30 years later.  Check the usual things, blowby,
> transmission shifting, body, interior,  Wandering or following tracks
> indicates worn front end parts.  Stand 30-50' behind and look at rear
> wheel camber. Tops in/bottoms out indicates a rear subframe/suspension
> rebuild is needed.
>
>
>>Going to look at at 1981300SD.
>>
>>What should I look out for?
>>
>> I am sure this has been asked a thousand times but if you don't mind
>> responding, I will appreciate it.
>>
>> The price seems low so I am concerned that there may be something
>> bad but the fellow says it is being driven and
>>needs nothing.
>>
>> Apart from the usual engine and transmission concerns with any old
>> vehicle, what might I worry about with this one?
>>
>>is this one of the models that has issues with the sway bar ends breaking off?
>>
>>Randy
>>
>>
>>___
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>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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>
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>

-- 
1983 300D

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[MBZ] Wheel color

2010-08-17 Thread Dieselhead

Anybody got the paint code for 15 hole wheels and/or 8 hole wheels?

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Re: [MBZ] Have you guys seen this new hotness for the W124?

2010-08-17 Thread Rolf

What exactly do you mean by wheel geometry?

-Rolf

On 08/17/2010 12:02 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 6:31 AM, Rolf  wrote:
   

As far as wheel geometry its all configurable on the W124, without touching
anything you will have more camber.
 

Wheel geometry and alignment are not the same thing.

I don't see the point of buying an aftermarket kit of questionable
design to improve the W124's handling when the complete Sportline
setup is still available from the factory (with the exception of the
steering box, which wouldn't be in the Tire Rack kit anyway).  I bet
Rusty can beat $700 on those parts easy too.  That's the way to
improve handling without compromising ride.

A Sportline W124 handles better than any other four-door sedan from
the mid-'80s except a 5-series BMW or a 2.3-16, and it's a lot more
comfortable.  But it's never going to win any autocrosses.  If you
want a go-cart, get something else.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] CL win for the day

2010-08-17 Thread Rolf

It was the scammer line that was the win, not the car :D

On 08/17/2010 11:04 AM, Allan Streib wrote:

Funny line about the scammers, but the lack of details on the "over $4.5K in work done" 
and the "is in TOP shape for its age" makes me think the seller has unrealistic 
expectations of value.

To get $6500 for a W123 300D it would need to be darn near perfect.

Allan


On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:33 -0400, "Rolf"  wrote:
   

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1903338766.html

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[MBZ] 300 SD THINGS TO LOOK FOR

2010-08-17 Thread theprofil...@dwx.com
Yep--my swaybar broke. Damn near no way to tell until it does, aside from 
disassembly. Got mine fixed for $650--my indy cut the rusted end off, and 
installed a new end that fit like a 
collar over the cut-off end of the sway bar. Installed it with set screws into 
machined flats on the bar, and metallic epoxy. Sounds mickey-mouse, I know, but 
50k miles later, its still 
holding fine, and I've driven very hard over very rough, frost-heaved Maine 
roads. Great cars. My 82 has 333k on it, averages 28 (will get 30 at a steady 
60), and gets driven 120 miles a 
day. The undercoating is so good on these cars that "no rust" on the body can 
be deceptive, however--in addition to the swaybar end, I had to replace the LR 
control arm because it rusted 
out from the inside and deformed. I've also replaced the ACC and the vacuum 
pump. But no complaints from me. Plenty of power, and a better ride and more 
room than a 123, yet with the 
bulletproof iron 617. And nowadays, they're no more expensive than 123s.

Dan
Des Moines
82 300SD, 333k


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Re: [MBZ] Alas, No Lexus....

2010-08-17 Thread Rick Knoble

> From: lwb...@yahoo.com

> Took delivery of a 2004 Ford Focus ZTW wagon yesterday.  124k, one owner, 
> local (Florida) car, full service records, maintained by local dealer on the 
> recommended schedule.  Gray with gray leather (yes, leather!) interior.

Have the ignition lock cylinder changed. My girlfriends sister has one of these 
and she has been stranded twice with lock cylinder problems. A reputable 
locksmith will be familiar with the problem. The last one to do my gf's sisters 
car said that Ford Focus lock problems put his daughter through college. I 
talked with him and there is an upgraded cylinder that can be put in from 
another Ford vehicle, that doesn't break. As Marshall said about MB, one key 
only on the keyring will help too.

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Focus/2004/accessories-interior/index.shtml

Rick
  
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Re: [MBZ] What to watch out for?

2010-08-17 Thread R A Bennell
Thanks for the input. 

Hate to think about selling the 115 but I do like the bigger ones (and my wife 
says I cannot keep them all).

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What to watch out for?


Yes, the front torsion bar can break, as can anything.  THe 126 is an 
amazing car, even 30 years later.  Check the usual things, blowby, 
transmission shifting, body, interior,  Wandering or following tracks 
indicates worn front end parts.  Stand 30-50' behind and look at rear 
wheel camber. Tops in/bottoms out indicates a rear 
subframe/suspension rebuild is needed.


>Going to look at at 1981300SD.
>
>What should I look out for?
>
>I am sure this has been asked a thousand times but if you don't mind 
>responding, I will appreciate it.
>
>The price seems low so I am concerned that there may be something 
>bad but the fellow says it is being driven and
>needs nothing.
>
>Apart from the usual engine and transmission concerns with any old 
>vehicle, what might I worry about with this one?
>
>is this one of the models that has issues with the sway bar ends breaking off?
>
>Randy
>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Have you guys seen this new hotness for the W124?

2010-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 6:31 AM, Rolf  wrote:
> As far as wheel geometry its all configurable on the W124, without touching
> anything you will have more camber.

Wheel geometry and alignment are not the same thing.

I don't see the point of buying an aftermarket kit of questionable
design to improve the W124's handling when the complete Sportline
setup is still available from the factory (with the exception of the
steering box, which wouldn't be in the Tire Rack kit anyway).  I bet
Rusty can beat $700 on those parts easy too.  That's the way to
improve handling without compromising ride.

A Sportline W124 handles better than any other four-door sedan from
the mid-'80s except a 5-series BMW or a 2.3-16, and it's a lot more
comfortable.  But it's never going to win any autocrosses.  If you
want a go-cart, get something else.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] What to watch out for?

2010-08-17 Thread Dieselhead
Yes, the front torsion bar can break, as can anything.  THe 126 is an 
amazing car, even 30 years later.  Check the usual things, blowby, 
transmission shifting, body, interior,  Wandering or following tracks 
indicates worn front end parts.  Stand 30-50' behind and look at rear 
wheel camber. Tops in/bottoms out indicates a rear 
subframe/suspension rebuild is needed.




Going to look at at 1981300SD.

What should I look out for?

I am sure this has been asked a thousand times but if you don't mind 
responding, I will appreciate it.


The price seems low so I am concerned that there may be something 
bad but the fellow says it is being driven and

needs nothing.

Apart from the usual engine and transmission concerns with any old 
vehicle, what might I worry about with this one?


is this one of the models that has issues with the sway bar ends breaking off?

Randy


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[MBZ] Old FSM CD-ROM availability [was: ML320 status]

2010-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Craig McCluskey  wrote:
> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 00:06:59 -0700 Alex Chamberlain
>  wrote:
>
>> http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9124/?requestedDocId=9124
>>
> No listing for 124 nor 126.

That's because cars before 1995 or so are under the purview of the M-B
Classic Center:

http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/MB/

I bought the W116 CD-ROM not long ago (I don't have a 116, but the
info on the 6.9's suspension is applicable to my 500SEL), and it is
still listed as available, but the 124 and 126 CDs apparently are
not---so you can BitTorrent them, or ask someone here off-list to burn
a copy for you, with a clear conscience.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] What to watch out for?

2010-08-17 Thread R A Bennell
By the way - he says it has about 181K miles on it and no rust.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 9:52 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] What to watch out for?


Going to look at at 1981300SD.

What should I look out for?

I am sure this has been asked a thousand times but if you don't mind 
responding, I will appreciate it.

The price seems low so I am concerned that there may be something bad but the 
fellow says it is being driven and
needs nothing.

Apart from the usual engine and transmission concerns with any old vehicle, 
what might I worry about with this one?

is this one of the models that has issues with the sway bar ends breaking off?

Randy


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[MBZ] What to watch out for?

2010-08-17 Thread R A Bennell
Going to look at at 1981300SD.

What should I look out for?

I am sure this has been asked a thousand times but if you don't mind 
responding, I will appreciate it.

The price seems low so I am concerned that there may be something bad but the 
fellow says it is being driven and
needs nothing.

Apart from the usual engine and transmission concerns with any old vehicle, 
what might I worry about with this one?

is this one of the models that has issues with the sway bar ends breaking off?

Randy


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[MBZ] OM602 with SLS

2010-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley
This must be what Ron Dwelle's 190D euro looks like under the hood, but I think 
it's a 250D in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edHzfwo2Utc

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Re: [MBZ] CL win for the day

2010-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:

Funny line about the scammers, but the lack of details on the "over $4.5K in work done" 
and the "is in TOP shape for its age" makes me think the seller has unrealistic 
expectations of value.

To get $6500 for a W123 300D it would need to be darn near perfect.


And if I were in the market for a $6500 W123, I'd not be looking for a car that 
'runs on veggie oil'.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] CL win for the day

2010-08-17 Thread Allan Streib
Funny line about the scammers, but the lack of details on the "over $4.5K in 
work done" and the "is in TOP shape for its age" makes me think the seller has 
unrealistic expectations of value.

To get $6500 for a W123 300D it would need to be darn near perfect.

Allan


On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:33 -0400, "Rolf"  wrote:
> http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1903338766.html
> 
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[MBZ] CL win for the day

2010-08-17 Thread Rolf

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1903338766.html

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: New Michelin tires

2010-08-17 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Ah, is this the Tweel concept?

On Aug 17, 2010 9:00 AM, "archer"  wrote:

Also:  http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f9/see-through-tires-134681/

















   New Michelin Tires... Look for them in
August.


   These tires are made in South Carolina, USA.

   SEE THROUGH TIRES Radical new tire design by
Michelin.
   The next generation of tires.
   They had a pair at the Philadelphia car show.



   Yes, those are 'spoke' like connections to
the inner part of the tire from the outside tread 'wrap!' The next picture
shows how odd it looks in motion...




   Makes you wonder how the ride feels doesn't
it?




   These tires are airless and are scheduled to
be out on the market very soon.
   The bad news for law enforcement is that
spike strips will not work on these.
   Just think of the impact on existing
technology:
   A.. No more air valves...
   B. No more air compressors at gas stations...
   C. No more repair kits...
   D. No more flats...

   These are actual pictures taken at the South
Carolina Michelin Test Center

















   __._,_.___
   .

   __,_._,___














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Re: [MBZ] Have you guys seen this new hotness for the W124?

2010-08-17 Thread Rolf
Lowering a car will not necessarily make the ride harsh. That is 
controlled more by the shocks. The Bilstein sports, for instance, are a 
3 valved body, HD is 2 valves and comfort is 1 valve. Each valve 
controls the rate and speed of movement of the shock.


As far as wheel geometry its all configurable on the W124, without 
touching anything you will have more camber. Luckily this is adjustable 
in the front and rear. I am not overly familiar with the rear on the 
W124 but on my W123 the rear is not adjustable. As such the greater the 
drop the greater the toe in and camber. I had to take it very easy 
applying throttle in the rain, but cutting up curves in the mountain is 
incredible. I have always wanted to take a G force meter with me for a 
ride up GA129, it has very wide lanes with high banked and very short 
switch backs in places. Lots of fun.


I am doing my shopping, if the H&R sport springs are truly progressive 
rate I may take those over the touring cup kit. The reviews seem to 
point to the touring kit being less harsh than the Bilstein sports with 
lowering springs. According to some the Bilstein sports are harsher than 
the sportline. Lots of options and very few people ever use more than 
one combo, so getting accurate reviews is difficult.


I was extremely pleased with the vogtland springs/bilstein HD combo on 
the W123 but after 4 years the shocks are quite serviceable but on the 
trailing edge of what I like. I really wish they had made bilstein 
sports for the W123.


-Rolf


On 08/16/2010 10:50 PM, OK Don wrote:

That's what I thought. I agree with you on the Bilsteins, I've had similar
experiences.

So, what does the sportline kit do/have to lower the chassis, yet keep the
wheels properly aligned?

On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 9:30 PM, Dieselhead<126die...@gmail.com>  wrote:

To answer OK Don's question:  Lowering the car 1.3 inches will make it ride
something like a WWI Liberty truck.  Or it could make it swim like a 75 gm
station wagon.  ("Right full rudder""Aye aye Sir" "She will start to
come about soon Sir...")

   


 
   



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[MBZ] Fw: New Michelin tires

2010-08-17 Thread archer
Also:  http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f9/see-through-tires-134681/










  






New Michelin Tires... Look for them in August. 


These tires are made in South Carolina, USA.

SEE THROUGH TIRES Radical new tire design by 
Michelin.
The next generation of tires. 
They had a pair at the Philadelphia car show.



Yes, those are 'spoke' like connections to the 
inner part of the tire from the outside tread 'wrap!' The next picture shows 
how odd it looks in motion...




Makes you wonder how the ride feels doesn't it? 




These tires are airless and are scheduled to be 
out on the market very soon.
The bad news for law enforcement is that spike 
strips will not work on these.
Just think of the impact on existing 
technology: 
A.. No more air valves...
B. No more air compressors at gas stations...
C. No more repair kits...
D. No more flats...

These are actual pictures taken at the South 
Carolina Michelin Test Center  

  

 

 

 

 

   

 

  

__._,_.___ 
. 

__,_._,___ 


   











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Re: [MBZ] Lets talk tire pressure

2010-08-17 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I still need to do that (check subframe mounts when subframe is hanging)
with mine.  Hopefully tonight I can make some time.  Saturday I jacked
up the car and took a hard look at all the links, and the lower control
arm aka spring link was the ugliest.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 8:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lets talk tire pressure

Yes, and if you see shiny polished aluminum on the body side and all the
rubber on the subframe side when it hangs, stop wasting time
speculating, and change the rear subframe mounts.

>Curt, et al.
> My old '85 190E (RIP) used to feel like it was in a fitful 
>cross-wind whilst driving along the highway at 60 ish. Bad rear sub 
>frame mounts. Jack up the car and put jack stands under the body, 
>letting the wheels and suspension hang, the mounts will partly separate

>if bad.
>YMMV
>Fred Moir
>Lynn MA
>Diesel preferred.
>
>On 8/16/2010 10:38 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>>So the Red '84 190D isn't handling the way I'd want it to. If it were 
>>a snowmobile I'd say "it darts" which is to say it'll twitch side to 
>>side when heading down the road at 45mph or more. If you twitch the 
>>steering wheel back and forth nothing happens...
>>
>>I'm thinking tire pressure so this morning I checked, 40psi all 
>>around. Sidewall max says 44 so we're still safe there. I pulled the 
>>fronts down to 36 and took a test drive which seemed to show some 
>>improvement but its still not right. Rear shocks are new as are all 
>>the rear links. All the suspension seems to be tight, confirmed by my 
>>Indy and the inspection station dude 165,000 miles on the car.
>>
>>These are 14" wheels I forget the exact tire size but the sidewalls 
>>are big Maybe this afternoon I'll go all the way down to factory 
>>pressure and see what happens. On my other 190D I was running a bit 
>>above factory (factory is 28/32 I think I was running
>>30/34) which seemed to no hurt anything. It seems like the 4psi 
>>difference is more important than the actual tire pressure...
>>
>>Ideas?
>>
>>-Curt
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
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>>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W108 project

2010-08-17 Thread andrew strasfogel
Here's another great line:

"Engine runs good but needs a tuneup"

Translation:  Engine needs a valve job/won't start.

On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 11:01 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> That would be my guess ---
>
> On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Allan Streib 
> wrote:
>
> > http://terrehaute.craigslist.org/cto/1896683143.html
> >
> > Looks fairly nice in the photos I'm wondering though if "in storage
> > for 4 year" means "sitting in that field for 4 years"
> >
> > Allan
> > --
> >
>
> --
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1991 300E (for sale)
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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