Re: [MBZ] Thanks to Manfred and June!
There's always next year. Manfred Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Very sorry to have missed it! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
My bad. Incorrect term on my part. Manfred Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Good catch! Shim really, not just a washer. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Good catch! Shim really, not just a washer. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On January 14, 2017 9:45:48 PM EST, MG via Mercedes wrote: >You forgot one crucial step. Take the washer off the differential >end shaft and put it on the differential end shaft of the new axle. > >Manfred > >fmiser via Mercedes wrote: >>> Kyle wrote: >> >>> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. >>> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so... >> >> Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure. >> Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me >> less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the >> car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too >> many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft >> immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased. >> >> Here's my procedure >> >> * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the >>differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the >>fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the >>back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out, >>so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and >>drain plugs. >> >> * While the oil is draining: >> >> - take off the wheel(s) >> >> - take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to >> come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and >> always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang >> by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more >> than necessary. >> >> - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel >> hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose >> in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual >> shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out, >> but it's never been more than just a bit stiff. >> >> * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car >>to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount >>about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this >>high just to make it easier for me to work under there - >>none of the parts install/removal process need the car that >>high. >> >> * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this >>called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts >>that hold the differential mount to the frame. >> >> * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential >>a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the >>top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a >>wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control >>valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the >>differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging". >>The shape of the lip on the differential housing means >>little or no oil will run out when the differential cover >>is removed. >> >> * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece >>of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent >>end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the >>other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove >>the retainer clip. >> >> * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as >>high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car >>body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position. >> >> * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it >>past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end >>is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the >>differential. >> >> Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. >> * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary, >>on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle >>shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide >>together more easily. >> >> * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the >>differential. >> >> * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub. >> >> * With the differential jack lower the differential. >> >> * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential. >>Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it. >> >> * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to >>spec. >> >> * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the >>differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to >>spec. >> >> * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec. >> >> * Put the brake caliper back on. >> >> * Put the wheel on. >> >> * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential. >> >> * Remove the differential jack. >> >> * Lower the car to the ground. >> >> Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are: >> clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look >> for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc. >> >> ___ >> http://www.okieben
Re: [MBZ] Thanks to Manfred and June!
Very sorry to have missed it! -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
You forgot one crucial step. Take the washer off the differential end shaft and put it on the differential end shaft of the new axle. Manfred fmiser via Mercedes wrote: Kyle wrote: Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so... Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure. Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased. Here's my procedure * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out, so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and drain plugs. * While the oil is draining: - take off the wheel(s) - take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more than necessary. - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out, but it's never been more than just a bit stiff. * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this high just to make it easier for me to work under there - none of the parts install/removal process need the car that high. * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts that hold the differential mount to the frame. * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging". The shape of the lip on the differential housing means little or no oil will run out when the differential cover is removed. * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove the retainer clip. * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position. * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the differential. Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary, on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide together more easily. * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the differential. * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub. * With the differential jack lower the differential. * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential. Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it. * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to spec. * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to spec. * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec. * Put the brake caliper back on. * Put the wheel on. * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential. * Remove the differential jack. * Lower the car to the ground. Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are: clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Windows oddities
Probably has something to do with the swap file size Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 14, 2017, at 6:35 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote: > > I recently updated my Win7 laptop, but before I did that I found how many > bytes of the disk were used. > > That number was 34,520,154,112. > > I then updated the system and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 36,770,156,544. > > I then cleaned up the disk and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 37,300,191,232. > > I then rebooted and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 36,832,741,632. > > I then cleaned up the disk a second time and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 37,015,437,312. > > I then rebooted a second time and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 36,979,855,360. > > > I guess the guys at Redmond think a disk cleanup should cause the > software to take up more space. > > > Craig > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Windows oddities
Dynamic swap disk? I usually fix mine so it won't add to fragmentation. On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 6:35 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote: > I recently updated my Win7 laptop, but before I did that I found how many > bytes of the disk were used. > > That number was 34,520,154,112. > > I then updated the system and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 36,770,156,544. > > I then cleaned up the disk and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 37,300,191,232. > > I then rebooted and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 36,832,741,632. > > I then cleaned up the disk a second time and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 37,015,437,312. > > I then rebooted a second time and rechecked the disk usage. > > That number was 36,979,855,360. > > > I guess the guys at Redmond think a disk cleanup should cause the > software to take up more space. > > > Craig > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > -- OK Don *“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers* 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
In my limited experience, the OE axles only fail when the boots rip and dirt enters the joint. Those OE boots were quite robust and could develop deep surface cracks long before opening a hole. Rebuild and third-party axles had a poor reputation, at least in the past, so used OE axles from a wreck were preferred. The symptoms you describe (free play) suggest a rebuilt or aftermarket axle. After all these years, I suspect the supply of god used axles is mighty thin. My 300SD still has the factory axles but they are living on borrowed time. So I (and probably several others) wait with interest to hear how the GKNs work out. > -Original Message- > From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of > Kyle Arola via Mercedes > > Andrew, > > Clunking when I manipulate the hub, with the wheel off, from the cv joint > closest to the wheel. I can see the little bit of play before the shaft starts to > move. Knock\clunk when making left turns at 20+ mph also. > > It started about 4 days ago at 35+mph left turn corners. Lightly and now more > loudly. Easy to diagnose with the rear end up on jackstands and the wheels off > the car. Only HAVE to do the passenger side, but I am doing both to avoid the > drivers side failing 2 weeks after I finish the passenger. > Murphy's law prevention.. Hahaha! > Kyle > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Windows oddities
I recently updated my Win7 laptop, but before I did that I found how many bytes of the disk were used. That number was 34,520,154,112. I then updated the system and rechecked the disk usage. That number was 36,770,156,544. I then cleaned up the disk and rechecked the disk usage. That number was 37,300,191,232. I then rebooted and rechecked the disk usage. That number was 36,832,741,632. I then cleaned up the disk a second time and rechecked the disk usage. That number was 37,015,437,312. I then rebooted a second time and rechecked the disk usage. That number was 36,979,855,360. I guess the guys at Redmond think a disk cleanup should cause the software to take up more space. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Thanks to Manfred and June!
Show us some pics! Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 14, 2017, at 4:50 PM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes > wrote: > > Manfred and June were wonderful hosts for the FLQ today. The weather was > perfect! Beer was drunk. Stories were told. Cars were examined. And food > was eaten. > > I really appreciate how everyone was so nice to myself and my wife. I truly > appreciate it! > > Much thanks to all! > > Kyle and Anja > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Thanks to Manfred and June!
Sounds like a perfect Q. Envious about the beer as State Park forbids it for our Q. Eager to see pix. Dwight Giles Jr. 1982 300CD 2005 E320 4 matic Wickford RI On Jan 14, 2017 4:50 PM, "Kyle Arola via Mercedes" wrote: Manfred and June were wonderful hosts for the FLQ today. The weather was perfect! Beer was drunk. Stories were told. Cars were examined. And food was eaten. I really appreciate how everyone was so nice to myself and my wife. I truly appreciate it! Much thanks to all! Kyle and Anja ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Thanks to Manfred and June!
Manfred and June were wonderful hosts for the FLQ today. The weather was perfect! Beer was drunk. Stories were told. Cars were examined. And food was eaten. I really appreciate how everyone was so nice to myself and my wife. I truly appreciate it! Much thanks to all! Kyle and Anja ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Thanks Roger! Good info... The rears are pretty worn so I am going to do both pads and rotors without trying to turn them. I am fairly certain the rotors can't be turned on my case. I am replacing with Brembro ceramic pads and rotors. I will inspect the fronts after I finish the axles next week. Kyle On Jan 14, 2017 8:52 AM, "rogerhga--- via Mercedes" wrote: > Kyle, > In the 20+ years with my old 617s, it's always been basically replace pads > twice, on third time, replace the rotors also. Once I got 3 sets of pads, > but that was once. Should not be expensive on the 123. The rears go a long > time compared to the fronts (pads and rotors). As it seems with all disk > brakes, the fronts take a beating and the rears just sit there. > Best Wishes, > Roger > Roger Hale > Dinnerware Classics, Inc. > Monroe, Ga. > 770-267-0850 > www.dinnerwareclassics.com > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
I saw that and figured I would get to that later. New unit was installed. I will verify the pads when I am in there. Thanks! On Jan 14, 2017 8:58 AM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" wrote: > Don't forget the parking brake pads. Rear rotor has a small drum in > center, parking brake assembly inside the drum. > -- > Max Dillon > Charleston SC > '87 300TD > '95 E300 > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Rick, I would accept your most generous offer but unfortunately I don't feel that passing my misfortune onto you is worth so little. If you really want to double your misfortune, as I have done, then I suggest a paltry, nay measly, €15,000. You see Rick, you must pay to earn this right. That should set you on the path of destruction.. Kyle On Jan 14, 2017 2:51 PM, "Rick Knoble via Mercedes" wrote: > It is becoming painfully obvious that you have purchased a poorly > maintained POS. > When it was repaired, it has been repaired with the cheapest, most > inferior parts > that were available. It the interest of relieving you of any more grief > from this less than > optimal purchase, I am willing to offer you $501 to take this automotive > nightmare > off of your hands > > Rick > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] OT speaking of buggered
I was using my "bansaw" this afternoon and the bottom wheel came off the shaft, almost. Hmmm. Turns out the bolt holding it on the shaft had turned out. Hmmm. So I try to put it back in and it won't go so I figger the threads are buggered, so I find another 1/4" bolt which won't go in either. So I futher figger the bolt is not a Freedom bolt but rather a Communist bolt of some similar size which would be like 6mm or 7mm. So gotta go to hardware store Before I decide to do that I try to chase the threads a bit with my fingernail to see if the threads really are buggered so I am doing that then I realize I am turning it the wrong way and it is a left-hand thread bolt. I guess that makes sense since it is on a turning wheel and you don't want it to back out like it did. I put some blue threadlock on it and screwed it down tight so I hope it will last another 20 years or so now. -- --FT Winston Churchill: “Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or petty, never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense. Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the enemy.” ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
It is becoming painfully obvious that you have purchased a poorly maintained POS. When it was repaired, it has been repaired with the cheapest, most inferior parts that were available. It the interest of relieving you of any more grief from this less than optimal purchase, I am willing to offer you $501 to take this automotive nightmare off of your hands Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Draining and opening the differential is not required if replacing a two-piece axle with a two-piece axle. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On January 13, 2017 10:57:10 PM EST, fmiser via Mercedes wrote: >> Kyle wrote: > >> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. >> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so... > >Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure. >Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me >less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the >car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too >many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft >immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased. > >Here's my procedure > > * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the >differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the >fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the >back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out, >so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and >drain plugs. > > * While the oil is draining: > > - take off the wheel(s) > > - take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to > come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and > always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang > by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more > than necessary. > > - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel > hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose > in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual > shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out, > but it's never been more than just a bit stiff. > > * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car >to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount >about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this >high just to make it easier for me to work under there - >none of the parts install/removal process need the car that >high. > > * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this >called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts >that hold the differential mount to the frame. > > * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential >a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the >top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a >wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control >valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the >differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging". >The shape of the lip on the differential housing means >little or no oil will run out when the differential cover >is removed. > > * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece >of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent >end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the >other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove >the retainer clip. > > * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as >high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car >body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position. > > * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it >past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end >is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the >differential. > >Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. > * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary, >on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle >shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide >together more easily. > > * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the >differential. > > * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub. > > * With the differential jack lower the differential. > > * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential. >Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it. > > * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to >spec. > > * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the >differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to >spec. > > * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec. > > * Put the brake caliper back on. > > * Put the wheel on. > > * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential. > > * Remove the differential jack. > > * Lower the car to the ground. > >Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are: >clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look >for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc. > >___ >http://www.okiebenz.com > >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list arc
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Don't forget the parking brake pads. Rear rotor has a small drum in center, parking brake assembly inside the drum. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Kyle, In the 20+ years with my old 617s, it's always been basically replace pads twice, on third time, replace the rotors also. Once I got 3 sets of pads, but that was once. Should not be expensive on the 123. The rears go a long time compared to the fronts (pads and rotors). As it seems with all disk brakes, the fronts take a beating and the rears just sit there. Best Wishes, Roger Roger Hale Dinnerware Classics, Inc. Monroe, Ga. 770-267-0850 www.dinnerwareclassics.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
So, did I understand correctly that the passenger side axle is a non-MB replacement, and that this is also the only one that is dead? You _can_ turn a MB rotor, but there is a thickness spec and there's not a lot of fat to trim. Turning them is definitely not on the 'always do' list, like it is on a Chebby peecup. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Ahhh. I had heard such things but I was pretty sure that was just talk to get more of my money... Bummer. Rotors added to the list! At least my list is shrinking now.. Kyle On Jan 14, 2017 6:25 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" wrote: > Mercedes rotors should not be turned. If they’re out of spec they should > be replaced. Rears are cheap, even from the dealer. > > 126 423 00 12 > > http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Mercedes_1985_300-TD-TURBODIESEL/BRAKE-DISC/ > 7919906/1264230012.html > > Dan > > > > On Jan 14, 2017, at 6:18 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > > > That is AWESOME Thanks! > > > > Now I am going to do the wheelbearings and brakes while I am in there as > > well. Pads are worn and get the rotors turned also... > > Nothing like a new rear end! Whoot! > > Kyle > > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Mercedes rotors should not be turned. If they’re out of spec they should be replaced. Rears are cheap, even from the dealer. 126 423 00 12 http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Mercedes_1985_300-TD-TURBODIESEL/BRAKE-DISC/7919906/1264230012.html Dan > On Jan 14, 2017, at 6:18 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes > wrote: > > That is AWESOME Thanks! > > Now I am going to do the wheelbearings and brakes while I am in there as > well. Pads are worn and get the rotors turned also... > Nothing like a new rear end! Whoot! > Kyle > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Andrew, Clunking when I manipulate the hub, with the wheel off, from the cv joint closest to the wheel. I can see the little bit of play before the shaft starts to move. Knock\clunk when making left turns at 20+ mph also. It started about 4 days ago at 35+mph left turn corners. Lightly and now more loudly. Easy to diagnose with the rear end up on jackstands and the wheels off the car. Only HAVE to do the passenger side, but I am doing both to avoid the drivers side failing 2 weeks after I finish the passenger. Murphy's law prevention.. Hahaha! Kyle On Jan 14, 2017 1:17 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: What were the symptoms again? Did you notice them on the way down to FL or subsequently? Whenever I had an axle problem there was a conspicuous knocking noise at highway speeds on the straightaway. Unmistakable. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:57 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote: > Kyle wrote: >> > > Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. >> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so... >> > > Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure. > Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me > less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the > car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too > many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft > immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased. > > Here's my procedure > > * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the >differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the >fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the >back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out, >so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and >drain plugs. > > * While the oil is draining: > > - take off the wheel(s) > > - take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to > come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and > always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang > by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more > than necessary. > > - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel > hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose > in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual > shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out, > but it's never been more than just a bit stiff. > > * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car >to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount >about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this >high just to make it easier for me to work under there - >none of the parts install/removal process need the car that >high. > > * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this >called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts >that hold the differential mount to the frame. > > * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential >a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the >top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a >wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control >valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the >differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging". >The shape of the lip on the differential housing means >little or no oil will run out when the differential cover >is removed. > > * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece >of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent >end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the >other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove >the retainer clip. > > * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as >high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car >body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position. > > * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it >past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end >is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the >differential. > > Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. > * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary, >on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle >shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide >together more easily. > > * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the >differential. > > * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub. > > * With the differential jack lower the differential. > > * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential. >Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it. > > * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to >spec. > > * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the >differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to >spec. > > * Tighten the axle shaft wheel
Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
That is AWESOME Thanks! Now I am going to do the wheelbearings and brakes while I am in there as well. Pads are worn and get the rotors turned also... Nothing like a new rear end! Whoot! Kyle On Jan 13, 2017 10:53 PM, "fmiser via Mercedes" wrote: > Kyle wrote: >> > > Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. >> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so... >> > > Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure. > Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me > less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the > car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too > many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft > immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased. > > Here's my procedure > > * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the >differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the >fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the >back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out, >so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and >drain plugs. > > * While the oil is draining: > > - take off the wheel(s) > > - take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to > come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and > always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang > by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more > than necessary. > > - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel > hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose > in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual > shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out, > but it's never been more than just a bit stiff. > > * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car >to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount >about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this >high just to make it easier for me to work under there - >none of the parts install/removal process need the car that >high. > > * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this >called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts >that hold the differential mount to the frame. > > * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential >a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the >top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a >wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control >valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the >differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging". >The shape of the lip on the differential housing means >little or no oil will run out when the differential cover >is removed. > > * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece >of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent >end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the >other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove >the retainer clip. > > * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as >high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car >body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position. > > * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it >past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end >is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the >differential. > > Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. > * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary, >on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle >shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide >together more easily. > > * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the >differential. > > * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub. > > * With the differential jack lower the differential. > > * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential. >Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it. > > * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to >spec. > > * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the >differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to >spec. > > * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec. > > * Put the brake caliper back on. > > * Put the wheel on. > > * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential. > > * Remove the differential jack. > > * Lower the car to the ground. > > Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are: > clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look > for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc. > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___
