I don't know if the bumpers appears in 73 or 74, depends on manufacture date I
think -- my 280SE had small ones, and I don't think MB ever put the big ones
on, just dropped the model by the time they were required. Mine was
manufactured in April, I think anything manufatured after August 1st (t
73 and 74 are pretty much identical, 72 and earlier have the small bumpers.
Great cars, a good friend of mine had one when we were at IU. Sadly hers had a
"kick me" sign on the back, her mother got rear-ended in in it just before Jan
came to school, and she got rear ended twice after that, alwa
Well, there's probably only six left in the US in driveable conditon, they
suffered VERY badly from 70's german car rust disease, particularly in the rear
suspension towers. Last on I saw was squatting in a lot, rear wheels at about
a 30 degree angle, which is what happens when the spring tower
Wasn't WWII, it was the early Thirties, during the depths of the depression.
WWI vets had been given a "bonus" payment for service that was supposed to be
paid at retirement age, and they marched on Washington to ask the Feds to pay
it immediately, due to the economic conditions. They camped o
We would have dropped the Fat Boy instead, there were at least a dozen more in
the pipeline. I suspect the only difference would have been a few weeks or
months before another one was dropped.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.
It appears it was a crime for the president to even ask those bastards to get
rid of the Bonus Army, and a crime for every officer and soldier involved to
take up arms on US soil, and capital murder for what transpired in the end.
https://www.thoughtco.com/the-posse-comitatus-act-of-1878-721707
I believe the confusion stemmed from the continuing argument between McArthur
and Nimitz as to who was in charge of the Navy in the Western Pacific. Ships
tended to get dispatched by the Supreme Command, bypassing the normal channels
in the Navy, and the Indianapolis was an example -- the appro
Mechanical idle is set too low, and probably the signal from the crankshaft
position sensor is weak (usually the connection behind the engine is corroded,
but the sensor can go bad.
Mechanical idle speed adjustment is in the manual.
Peter
___
http://www.okieb
I'd let him fix it or have no wheels. Any more repairs are to be done by a
repair shop on his dime.
Fixing his carelessness (since that damage is very likely over-running a
parking bumper) with no cost to him in time or money just teaches him he's
entitled to more.
_
Brown line is the supply to the switch, brown with a blue stripe is the line to
the servo. Line goes from the four way T at the front of the engine to the
left fender and hence to the switch on the keyswitch. Servo line comes out of
the dash by the fuse box, I think, and to the servo.
Three t
Probably the same thing on the left side. I'd vote cowl drain too, but also
check for a leaking windshield.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okieb
What are the odds that a lit cigarette butt would make it up to the filter?
Gotta be a rare event, eh?
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.oki
Get the proper series 49, and check the current draw on the starter -- 900
amps is normal for a good starter, you need 1200 for a tired one to start in
cold weather.
Don't skimp, you will burn out the batteries if they are too small.
___
http://www.okiebenz.c
Replace the thermistor under the front bumper cover.
Sadly, all of mine have died, display turned black.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz
Looks to me as if the air filter caught fire. Scooped up and lit cigarette
butt maybe?
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listi
Lol, you must have better roads there than we do. I'm pretty sure most of the
tire damage around here is pothole derived, never go anywhere without hitting
at least one. Some are pretty bad, I've cut two of those silly low profile
tires badly on railroad tracks, too.
__
Belt separation. I've rarely worn out tires, they almost always acquire damage
requiring replacement before the tread is gone.
Looks like some cupping on the far side, as well.
Glad you caught it before it got worse, shedding a belt is not for the faint of
heart
Peter
The older Singers are great machines. A little harder to keep in proper
adjustment than one of the inexpensive Japanese machines (non-adjustable!) but
real workhorses.
Keep the hook adjustment correct and replace the belt when it slips and it will
run forever, unlike the modern electronic ones
Sockets have been replaced on both my 300Ds, Get good heavy wire ones -- the
factory ones are inadequate -- and solder them into the harness.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery
Use PAG oil. Very deliquescent (absorbs water), so you need to replace the
receiver/dryer if you open the system very long. Denso will not honor
warrenties if there is mineral oil in the compressor and R134a.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list
I guess that gives me another project, I have two that need fixed
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercede
I only get around 47 with the 04 Golf, but I think that's mainly due to the low
profile tires I want to get rid of. Better than the TE at 20 though...
As far a struts go, when to they typically need replacing on a VW? I have
160k, and it's getting a bit bouncy. My friend Hans says Bilstien Co
Heavy trucks do have solid axles, but not anywhere close to a Jeep font end.
Shimmy is a known problem on all solid axles, good designs minimize it. Our
old Ramble could get a good one going toward the end of it's life. The problem
is that there is a solid link between the wheels, and one shak
It is a jeep thing, but it can be controlled -- new ball joints, big steering
damper, proper tires and good balance, and NO slop in the steering. Have to
have good front axles, too. Anything that starts vibration will trigger it,
and it's very difficult to dampen out once it starts,
It is nec
I suspect they are Kevlar re-inforced, similar to tire sidewalls. Not worth
the effort to repair or reverse engineer. Considering the failure of the front
one can total the car and seriously injure the occupants, I'd feel much better
with a genuine Benz replacement
Peter
_
But a bad pull-off can indeed cause that specific problem -- a graduate school
buddy had that problem with his junk Buick of similar age, a piece of vacuum
line fixed him right up.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/arc
Choke pull-off is a possibility, and easy to see.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
I don't remember when Ford used the variable geometry carb (two barrel with
moving venturi and metering needles like a Strombery side draft), so that could
be an issue as well.
However, the idle circuit is active up to maybe quarter throttle, much more
than you would think.
Also, disconnect th
Very unlikely to be a spark problem.
I would suspect a clogged idle circuit in the carburetor.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.co
Since ethanol has been added for gasoline as an oxygen carrier for more than 40
years, it's not very likely that it causes damage to fuel systems unless they
are very poorly designed (take note GM, this isn't 1955, eh?)
Flex fuel vehicles can run on 85% ethanol, most "non flexfuel" vehicles
com
There is also the point that using mid-grade in my TE burns off the spark plug
electrodes, too -- no knock sensor. I always use premium in it, just the cost
of having a Benz.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
Typically there is a knock sensor on the engine, and ignition timing is
retarded when you get knock, may also richen the fuel.
The difference can be 10% or more, depending on driving conditions and fuel,
but usually it's cheaper to use premium.
Peter
___
http
New key from the dealer.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
They tend to air lock when they run dry. I have a slow well, this is a common
occurance here.
Turn it off for half an hour and it should burp up a bunch of air and be fine,
at least mine is when that happens.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search li
Use the dealer part, the aftermarkets break across the upper bolt hole or snap
at the bend due to poor manufacturing.
Dealer part should last the rest of the life of the car, aftermarket will last
a couple years at best.
BTDT.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.c
615 engine will have an R4, 603 will have the Nippondenso. Not
interchangeable, the R4 won't fit on the 603.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.o
Barrier type hose is pretty cheap. Only caveat is to make sure fitting
orientations are the same as on the old hose.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
h
Anaerobic digestion produces hydrogen and methane gas. Since there is no
pentacyclosiloxane in it (the stuff that makes your hair shiny in shampoo and
conditioner) it can be compressed, dried, and burned in either a turbine or
internal combustion engine to run a generator.
Land fill methane is
This is why I drive them. Same sort of thing happened to me, guy in a work van
ran a traffic light and hit me in the driver's door. Battered but alive, car
was a mess.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive
Replace the condenser, it's plugged.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Lol, had many break but not in that location.
Reminds me, know that I can actually work on cars again, I need to replace the
left front on the TE.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or ch
Or people who believe in "supply side" economics or or that "de-regulation"
increases economic well being.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.
Actually, since most locomotives in the US at the beginning of the rail era
were purchased from the UK, there were essentially two guages -- broad gauge (8
ft) and "standard" which is what everyone else in Britain used besides the
Great Western, Brummel's railroad (ifrc). Broad gauge is VASTLY
The problem is the lead free solder, it was a fairly new thing then, and what
they used cracks badly in use. Takes out relays, especially smart ones, CC
amps, and PBCUs.
Can be an issue with engine electronics too, not the "brain" so much as the
connectors coming loose.
Peter
Big PITA. You need a good press and adapters to get the old bearing out and
the new one in.
Bearing failures are quite rare, and result in excessive runout and low
frequency thumping or grinding, not a whine.
Check the diff and the center bearing, both are much more likely sources,
especiall
You will be able to tell if it has been converted as the fitting are screw on
for R12. Both cars were manufactured with R12, but if they have been serviced
since about 1995 they have been switched to R134a or one of the hydrocarbon
refrigerants.
But you really want to do the proper testing a
Idle will smooth out when you burn the carbon out of the pre-chamber, they crud
up with bad combustion. The turbo may have some carbon on the turbine side
too, which will go away.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.
That would do it. Probably tightened down on a dirty seal at some point.
Reminds me I need to get them done in the 300D soon, may have the same issue on
#6.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubs
On the W115 the switch is on the side of the transmission where the shift rod
goes in.
Cheap and cheerful fix is to pull the plug and stuff a wire in to jump the
connection, but that will prevent the backup lights from working.
I don't know where the other connectors are. On that car, you woul
Pagid and Textar have a hard rubber coating on the back side of the pads. I
suspect this is why they don't squeal.
Also make sure the caliper is clean so the pads fit flat against the frames,
remove all rust and crud, and make sure the face of the piston is clean. Some
rust on the piston allo
Buy Padgid. Or Textar for the rear, typically in stock at most FLAPS around
here.
Everything else howls.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail
It's going into "limp home" mode -- check the switchover valves for EGR, boost
control, and manifold flaps if it has them. A bad switchover will result in
all sorts of ills, cured by replacing it.
A read-out of the error codes should help.
Peter
___
http://w
Bad injectors will give you rough idle and mixture control issues.
When you replace them, leave the lines off at the injector and crank a bit
(watch for spilt fuel, of course) -- crap collects in the lines and you can
plug up new ones making them as bad as the old ones!
I need to replace the on
I had big air leaks on mine around that barb, the old boot was rock hard. It
also leaks around the throttle body when it gets old as it shrinks and the
clamp becomes loose. Tighten the clamp and it may fix the leak for a bit, but
if it does, the boot is shot.
Peter
___
It was the Chevy Vega that had the failed aluminum block.
GM gave up on it (because Ed Cole screwed it up by removing a water passage
between 1&2 and 3&4 to "save money", with the result that thermal expansion
pinched the pistons and ate up the cylinder -- original design worked great
after the
There is a frame that holds the boot to the fuel distributor. Be very careful,
there is ONE short screw, and if you put a long one in that hole you can crush
the transducer for the meter plate position sensor.
Replace the idle valve hoses at the same time, the one between the valve and
intak
Wriggle, shake, twist, usually you can get it to turn one more time. You only
need to get it to the #1 position (unlocked but nothing on) to get the tumbler
out.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To U
Airlines have always had the right to refuse to seat you on any particular
flight, although they DO have to honor your ticket eventually. Flights are
often (if not always) "over sold" because it's impossible to get everyone on
the plane every time, especially when the weather is bad and flights
Avoid the A1050 and related models (which are getting a bit long in the tooth
anyway) -- the NVidia chip has a distressing tendency to crack loose from the
logic board. This seems to be an issue with the chip itself, it does the same
thing on contemporary video cards and PlayStations. The fix
Don:
Hope that worked. Make me think I should check the one on the TE, I've never
done it. Shifts pretty hard.
And idles like crap sometimes.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or chan
Liquify the CO2 AND remove all the heavy metals and sulfur.
Economically it's a pipe dream, and we need to find employment for displaced
miners. They got the dirty end of the stick, yet again.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives htt
Coal gasification has been around on an industrial scale since Germany was
forced to use it during WWII to produce liquid fuels due to lack of petroleum.
Not economically viable without large government subsidies, and it was the loss
of the subsidy that ended development, not the "war on coal".
Russian Internet trolls -- Americans are really gullible.
The "War on Coal" is bogus -- we just put in a co-gen plant at the plant site
were I work most of the time. Been chewing on it for at least 25 years, but
with the price of natural gas it was a no-brainer. No more low sulfur coal
from
Sounds like my TE, only mine is much worse at idle some of the time.
Let it idle for a while then pull the plugs, since you need to replace them
anyway, and check condition of the old plugs. There are plenty of places for
air leaks on the CIS system, and plenty of issues with injectors. Use lo
They are also prone to having the clip that holds the scissor into the window
bottom rail break. Usually causes the window to drop, but they can get stuck
fully up. Rack moves but is no longer attached to the window.
Obvious when you remove the door panel.
Peter
__
Sounds like more fun that I had -- just front brakes and hoses on the TE --
rotors were marginal and the pads pretty worn but not shot, but I was getting a
grinding sound on firm brake application so I replace everything.
Found that the rotor retaining screw had broken away a ring of the disk, s
Typically the hook is adjustable for position and on Singers timing -- along
with about every other mechanical function.
On my old Japanese machine of similar vintage, the only thing you can adjust is
the hook location horizontally, everything else is determined by the geometry
of the parts.
T
There is a similar story about the DC-6. Leaving the gust lock lever in the
locked position duringwould lock the horizontal stabilizer in a slight "up"
attitude, which could easily be compensated for by dialing in some trim. At
least once the lock was accidentally engaged in flight, and like a
Bad center bearing sounds like a bad muffler and causes vibration at the rear
of the console, but is dependent upon road speed, not engine speed.
A bad mount (the rubber part) causes vibration on acceleration more than
coasting, can also vibrate on deceleration in the same way.
Peter
__
Yes, upper can be done in car, lower requires steering knuckle removal.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/merce
Oil leaks usually mean shot turbo, although it's possible for the return line
o-ring to go bad and dribble oil at the insertion point on the oil pan or
block, don't remember how it goes in. Ditto for the oil feed tube on top, but
a sudden leak is unlikely there.
Oil leaks anywhere else indicat
We modified a ball joint tool to press the lower joints in. Big PITA, my
friend with a shop used to keep a pair of lower control arms in stock and swap
them, then send the bad ones off to a shop in Indianapolis to trade them.
Since we made the tool, we do them occasionally for him.
Out is eas
No, fuel leaking out of the plunger/sleeve set into the fill chamber that
should have lifted the delivery valve and been injected. Over torque distorts
the aluminum pump housing, and this can cause them to leak as well since the
delivery valve holder may not be sitting square on the seal.
It t
Improperly torqued delivery valve seals result in the actual injection timing
and fuel burn timing varying between the cylinders. The bigger the leak, the
later the actual burn, and hence less efficiency. Rough idle, lumpy running,
but less power AND fuel economy.
BTDT, and need to do the one
It's the color coat that is failing, the clear coat ends up unattached when the
color coat comes apart, this is why you cannot sand down to good paint and
re-coat -- there is no good paint, it's gone.
I also prefer solid color paint for this reason, as does my buddy in the body
business, it's b
The failure is actually in the color coat under the clear coat. Usually
keeping it well waxed (and out of the sun as much as possible) will extend the
life of the paint due to more UV absorbtion before it gets to the paint.
Repaints tend to fail badly due to inadequate clear coat thickness, it'
Pressure treated wood is treated wet, else the treatment will not penetrate.
Be careful when buying construction lumber, it is NOT all kiln dried -- quite a
bit of it is simply flash heated to set the resin in the coniferious stuff so
it won't bleed, it's essentially the same moisture content a
Multifunction electronic relay, replaces fuel pump, OVP relay, and KLIMA relay.
Not repairable, if it fails you have to replace the whole thing.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or chan
The downflow radiator was only used in 86, I think, after that the cross-flow
was used.
The part number is for the cross-flow, I learned all this searching for a rad
for my brother's SDL. The picture is usually wrong in the on-line catalog, and
if you try to order one for an 86, it will come u
You need to get the rear compartment full and re-bleed. I would also replace
the brake hoses, the black in the fluid is rotten liner from the hoses.
I need to replace all the hoses on the TE, the rear brakes drag and I'm sure
it's one of the three back there, and there is no reason to assume th
The 86 radiator is different than later ones, it's a downflow and not a
crossflow. They are only interchangeable if you change the radiator supports.
And the available one is getting scarce
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http:
Radiator for an '86 SDL is NLA. There is an aftermarket I've seen that runs
about $650, but I don't remember where I saw it or if it's still around.
A radiator from a later model will fit, but you need to replace the upper and
lower radiator supports -- it's the same as the radiator in the 87 3
The most common failure is for a wire to break in the bundle between the door
post and the door, they get flexed quite a bit. This can result in either the
window not working at all or only going one way. the cure is to splice or
replace the wire.
Had to splice all twelve of those wires in m
It's fairly common for the brushes to burn the commutator in the closed
position, as it's hard not to hold the switch down a second after the window is
up, causing excessive current flow.
Obviously, tapping on the motor will bounce the brushes enough to get the motor
off the stalled position, a
Try removing the switch and applying battery voltage to the wires directly. A
bad switch can keep either from working.
You may have to tap on the motor, too.
A broken wire in the door is also a possibility, in which case voltage to the
plug at the switch in the door will work -- I have one win
I replace rotors when there is a distinct lip around the outside edge. You can
measure them to make sure, but for me this is every third set of brake pads
more or less -- new rotor and pads, replace pads once, need rotors on the next
replacement.
MB rotors are cheap enough it's silly not to re
Tensioner or tensioner pivot.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
It's not the spring, it's the bearing in the tensioner itself. Replace it
before it starts eating belts.
Reminds me to check mine, I don't think I've replaced it on this 300D, and I've
put about 150k miles on it since I bought it.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebe
All the vacuum for the engine, transmission, and climate controls comes from
that big "t" up at the front of the engine. There is a restriction at the
base, so any crack or break in ANY of the four lines can result in no vac to
the transmission and hard shifts. Serious cases also result in shu
It's also possible to pull the line off the servo on the transmission end, or
the five way "tree" at the front of the engine, or break one of the lines, they
are quite brittle by now.
All of mine are spliced
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search li
Make sure the vacuum lines on the control valve are intact -- having one
dislodged will cause hard shifting.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mai
Usually a pint, I think.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Make sure you don't have an air leak in the suction side of the lift pump
(plastic filter and fuel pre-heater). Air getting in will cause all sorts of
idle problems and eventually hard starts.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://
Never heard of "weep holes" in brick fascia or veneer. You do NOT have
structural brick (a multi-course wall with an internal void, like building
built 100 years ago) or the top of the brick wall exposed to water.
The joints should, however, all the struck either concave or flat with a slight
Missing or broken delivery valve spring will do the same thing
Peter
-Original Message-
>From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
>Sent: Jan 27, 2017 1:48 PM
>To: Mercedes
>Cc: Meade Dillon
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] My 124 is idling rough (91 300D 2.5Turbo)
>
>I was also just thinking that the
you MUST replace the copper seals, they work harden and will never
seal twice.
They are cheap, but shipping will usually bite you (as in $10 for
shipping and $2 for seals).
The o-rings just seal the fill chamber from leaking out, maybe 30
psi. The copper seals keep full pressure in the i
Absolutely use new copper seals, the o-rings are probably fine.
I do one at a time.
New springs are a good idea, too, as they can also cause uneven idle due to
different spring strength from spring to spring allowing slightly different
injection timing at idle (same as opening pressure on injec
Lol, the cost for re-fabricating the rear end on a 2002 would be more that it
would ever be worth, sadly, they were wonderful cars, if prone to having the
spring towers rot off.
You should do OK, the 525 is one of BMW's better cars, and quite nice.
I've driven a 600 and a 2002, nothing else, bu
Late to this thread, but the shop needs to replace the pressure valve holder
seals, they are leaking.
Knock at idle, rough idle, low power until about 2000 rpm, no smoke.
Make sure they understand the correct method to torque NEW seals -- never allow
them to re-use the old ones, they will never
Injector knock can be a number of things, but I would replace the IP, they are
not really interchangeable.
Knock and smoke at speed is over advanced timing as a rule, but you may want to
check that the injection timer isn't broken. Late timing won't cause knock but
it will cause smoke, mostly
801 - 900 of 6342 matches
Mail list logo