The folks in the Pacific Northwest are like any others - treat them like you
want to be treated, and you'll get along just fine. Living in NE Tacoma for
3 years, we found the locals all to be as nice or better than we've seen
anywhere in the USA - and we all laughed at the tongue-in-cheek
Don - You're probably correct, although I often get comments like where are
the washer/wipers? - and every one of the '90-'93 124s around here do have
the wipers. I just assumed that this may have been a special order by
MBUSA. The car had never been titled, so it appears as if I'm the
Folks, its pretty well established that if you want all those parts of your
car that relies on the flexibility of rubber (bushings, exhaust hangers,
brake hoses, etc), that after about ten years, you should consider replacing
them - at least the ones that are hard, cracked, swelled, or just out
the lists going till Richard could get mbz.org
fixed again. Well that never happened so I then created okiebenz.com to
be the permenant home of the lists. There you have the short version.
Werner Fehlauer wrote:
I apologize if this has been cussed and discussed, but I've lost the
bubble
Larry - if you really wanted a challenge, then locate the engine and tranny
(a ZF unit)from a BMW 524TD, or even a Lincoln Mark LSC with that BMW
engine. It is a smooth 6 cylinder, very strong, and would make that 240
seem to fly. The US versions of the 524 were only sold here in '85 and '86
Bob Hoover's flying is the stuff of legend - they made a longer film of his
flying the Shrike as part of the advertising for the company. It was shown
several times at the Elmendorf Aero Club back in the '70s, and that kind of
flying is still impressive to this day!
And then there's the stunt
Casey - I'd bet that she would just love an ML320CDI - probably not that
much different in price from the Audi. A new Diesel, quiet, and lots of
go, and plenty of room for skis and stuff! Check out the MBUSA site
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
Casey - OK, you didn't mention a spending cap. So how about looking over
4Matic used M-Bs? The StarMark site (under MBUSA) might surprise you
After all, there's nothing as safe to have your Significant Other in than an
M-B!
(its a shame that we can't tap into the used ML 270 CDI market -
Well, just a quick look at the MBUSA pre-owned list, shows a Silver '99
ML320 for $14K in Lynnwood, WA, and a White '99 ML430 for $18K in Fife - not
that I would ever recommend a gas guzzler, but that shows for under 20K you
can get an all-wheel drive M-B! Also, the '99 MLs don't have all the
Amen, Hans! But I suspect that the proper capitalization of the name will be
lost on most people. Just like coke, Kleenex, Zerox have become
synominous with a class of product, making the first letter of a person's
name is beyond hope, it seems. But I will do my best to keep the capital
D in
I apologize if this has been cussed and discussed, but I've lost the bubble
as to the sequence of events (and perhaps a bit of reasoning) behind how
these nets have transfigured themselves.
I am aware and dismayed about how the original technical (and leader's list)
net that had more or less
Hans: Foul language is usually an indication that the user can't find a
more accurate or descriptive term to describe the thought. But the best
test would be that if it isn't something that would be acceptable when
talking to children, or in polite company, then it probably is foul. And
John - I think you're caught up in an industry change of nomenclature. Back
in the old days, Ford (predominantly) used what is known as Type F for the
frictional qualities required in their trannys, while almost everyone else
used Type A. Type F is almost unknown now-a-days, so you can be
Dang youngsters! 1949 is when I got my driver's license.
The only thing worse than getting old is the alternative
And retirement means that you have even less time to get all the things done
that you start!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
I would think that having a possibly poor ground connection from the battery
might be asking to fry some expensive electronics, since the
alternator/regulator needs to have a solid reference, or all bets are off as
to what the system voltage might be. I'd recommend removal of any possible
Casey - I'm sorry, but when you folks lost Acres of Clams and the
Captain's Table, the seafood choices dropped a notch or two in the Seattle
area. Of course, there was that nifty Lobster Shop pair of restaurants in
Tacoma, but the NW seafood is certainly unique in its own way, just like the
Well, perhaps they moved one or the other - but the original was across the
bay in NE Tacoma, and the newer one was along the more trendy waterfront
on the West Side of the bay, a bit South of the old smelter. But in either
one, the chowda was about as good as I've had, especially with the
OK, I've been trying to stay out of another (repeating) oil thread, but here
goes:
The most wear that an engine experiences is during a cold start. Oil
pressure isn't up, oil has drained down into the sump, and clearances are at
their greatest. So it makes sense to use an oil (such as a good
Yes, and I thought Brown's Point was in NE Tacoma, since I lived just down
the street and that was my address!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lobstah Shop
Well, perhaps they
Larry - you're going to have to find a level parking spot! That 45%
driveway will get slippery if it ever gets cold around here!
Actually, I find that just pulling the dipstick almost NEVER indicates the
correct oil level, and I have to wipe it clean, re-insert, and then take a
reading. And
Larry - you might try the PB Blaster treatment, and then hammer on a proper
size box-end wrench. I've found that trying an open-end wrench is just
asking for it to be rounded off. And I have an offset 10mm just for those
hard to reach and stubborn M-B fasteners!
Werner
- Original
Dwight - would be interested in how you manage to salvage Quahogs. I know
the shells are recycled, or how else could they sell so many stuffies?
But the business title sounds interesting
Werner
(formerly from Middletown in the late '80s)
- Original Message -
From: Dwight E.
. I am going quahogging early
tomorrow and hopefully will be able to pick some oysters as well.
Middletown is a nice place. Where do you live now?
Dwight
Bissell Cove Quahog Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Werner
: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Salvage (OT)?
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006, Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Good luck with Quahogs - I suspect that most of the USA doesn't even know
what they are!
they taste good over linguini (in a white sauce of course!)
=)
-j.
Jerry - it would help if you gave a bit more of a description - such as
color (outside/inside), any rust, where the car is located, number of
owners, records?
I personally wouldn't mention WVO use, as anyone who knows about Diesels
should also know that cars of that vintage can be run on
For gas or other fuel engines, the old John Deere admonition of buy clean
fuel, and keep it clean applies. And the best way to keep carbs on older
and small engines clean is to make sure that only clean fuel is in the
system, that it is consumed totally at frequent intervals, and if put away
Low oil pressure after it gets up to operating temps? #1 cause is bad main
bearings; or perhaps a bad pressure regulating valve on the oil pump output
combined with a worn out oil pump combined with the wrong oil viscosity. If
he's really lucky, just the wrong oil!
Werner
- Original
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and Happy Holidays to all M-B addicts on
these nets!
Werner
'90 300D
'83 300SD
- Original Message -
From: Euan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 11:17 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Christmas greetings from the
Not only do modern power plants need emergency gen sets, most are designed
so that so that they need grid power to start up. There have been many
instances where the grid failed, and a single plant tried to carry the load
which was too much, then tripped off the line and went stone cold
Larry - quite a list of conversions, but I didn't see Newton-meters to lb-ft
(torque)!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com; 911/993/996 digest
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: The FerrariList [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
So did GM(Cadillac), as recently as a one-off a couple years back at the
Detroit auto show. The Volkswagen W-16, Bugatti And then there was
Packard, etc..
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Larry et al: You have to keep the question to cars, and AFAIK, 16 cylinders
has been the practical limit. Besides complexity and weight, there are too
many parts to break, too many pieces to keep together with the correct
clearances, and too much windige or frictional losses. A big factor in
Wow! the correct tool makes all the difference between frustration, failure
and success!
The 6 bolts that hold the half shaft to the differential on this '90 124
definitely are TriSquare recessed heads; trying to use a Torx will NOT
work - only a 10mm TriSquare bit will grab the bolt head and
Larry - My car's exhaust consists of 3 pieces - front pipe, mid pipe and
resonator, and rear pipe and muffler. The front pipe (engine to mid-joint)
ends in a flare, that connects via a donut to the mid section flare end that
includes a resonator (or first muffler). The flared joint is clamped
Werner Fehlauer wrote:
John - thanks for the info - it really helps. The bolts on the half
shafts
of this car are definitely 12-point, or triple square. The Torx 50 is a
slightly loose fit, and since the spec for the 50 size is 8.83mm point
to
point, I'm assuming that the XZN-10 is appropriate.
Now
/
.
- Original Message -
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:39 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Correct tools for 124 half shaft?
I'm trying to remove the 6 machine screws that hold the inner end of the
half-shafts
He missed one thing - according to MBUSA, that car is already a classic. As
soon as the 2007 models were being offered here in the USA, the 1982 cars
became 25 years old and a classic. MBCA calculated age back from 2007 at
the recent Starfest Concours in September! (My '83SD becomes a
Andrew - that's too expensive an airplane. Better that they transfer to the
USMC, and drive Marine 1 in and out of D.C. and Andrews.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December
Larry et al: I stopped by the local indy parts store, 1.5 miles up the road,
and lo and behold, he had a 4 - pack of Lisle 12 point metric male bits,
list just under $20, net $13, and they are guaranteed for life! The set had
1 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm 12 point bit, and each with a hex 1/2 drive
Wow! this is certainly not an okie car (no insult intended - just that this
appears to be way out of that customary price range;-))) - seems to be in
very good, original factory condition EXCEPT for the added brown lower
paint. But I think it looks good on this car!
But before committing to
I'm trying to remove the 6 machine screws that hold the inner end of the
half-shafts to the differential on my '90 124. The screws are socket head,
splines, and a Torx 50 seems to fit (almost). It appears to me that the
screws have a 12 pt? socket head, while the Torx bits are 6 pt. The
wrench (torch)!
Werner
- Original Message -
From: John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Correct tools for 124 half shaft?
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006, Werner Fehlauer wrote:
I'm
For painting wheels, its hard to beat Rustoleum professional gray primer,
aluminum, and clear - in spray cans, available anywhere, including Home
Depot. Just clean the wheels, sand out imperfections, and spray. Don't
have to remove the tires, and can you can do all 4 in less than an hour.
MBUSA (and perhaps D-C?) screwed up what had been a fairly clear and easily
recognizable nomenclature scheme when they fooled with the C Class
240/260/280s in the 1990s. But they had also done some strange markings in
the late 60s, with the 300a/b/c/d Adenauer cars, where the d did NOT
denote
Casey - I would try and tame the generator, assuming that it and its
governor are working properly. Make sure the load you're trying to carry
does not exceed the generator capacity, and even preferably stays under 80%
of that. Don't dump a big load on it all at once; also, don't run it
Amen! In my limited experience (27 years and 5 Diesel cars, from GM to BMW
to VW to MB), I have never had to replace a GP. That said, I am starting to
get a bit of rough idle on start up (still starts very readily, though),
that disappears after about 15 seconds. *Might* be one or two GPs
Levi -
cooking batteries is definitely NOT healthy! The heat generated
internally can warp plates and do other internal bad things. A battery
professional would recommend charging at a 2-3 Ampere rate for several
days - that not only builds a good charge without excessive heating, but
also
Congratulations, Rusty!
Perhaps you should start looking for a good 240D for when she starts
driving - they may be a bit scarce in the yea 2022??
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Hank -
Sounds to me like perhaps the brushes are worn out on the blower motor -
that would account for intermittent blower operation. It's a bit of a pain
to remove the blower, but not impossible. Finding replacement brushes can
also be a problem, and if the bearings or motor windings are
LarryT -
If you only look at the 45 state/50 state controversy re: Diesels, then the
ball is certainly mostly in the Government's court, albeit State
Governments. But the decision to import and sell certain models is up to
the importer, such as MBUSA, etc. And it is apparent that MBUSA calls
Luther - if there's little or no oil in the vacuum lines, and none dripping
out below, none coming out the radiator overflow, then it must be burning in
the combustion chambers. And its pretty close to impossible for crankcase
oil to mix with fuel in the IP, so that pretty much leaves rings,
]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Jim - at the risk of starting a whole new thread, Wind Chill applies
only
to living things (animate) that have a circulating system
OK, I think that everyone has missed the obvious first place to look when
there is a suspicion that something is wrong at the alternator end - and
that is the regulator/brush assembly. Unless the bearings on the alternator
are shot, rarely is there something wrong with the alternator that a
Levi - if you won't go $100 (with the club discount) for a M-B battery at
the dealer, then the oft recommended batteries for our Diesels is the
Interstate brand, and particularly the Optima (more expensive, but
reportedly last a lot longer) Red Top. Looking for reliable service in a
Diesel,
-
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fun in the cold this morning
Levi - if you won't go $100 (with the club discount) for a M-B battery at
the dealer, then the oft
Jim - at the risk of starting a whole new thread, Wind Chill applies only
to living things (animate) that have a circulating system (blood).
Inanimate objects like machinery may cool faster if wind currents blow on
them, but the concept of lower than ambient wind chill temperatures does
NOT
Several years ago, we used circulating engine heaters that were used when it
got cold in Alaska (also common in Northern states and Canada). These
typically were T ed into a heater return line to the engine block.and had
an input connected to an engine block drain. They came in 500, 750,
Kevin - they are not really hinges like used on doors - they are clips
that fit into the trunk well edge and hook into slots on the spare cover
panel. I was able to carefully remove them from the old lid, and re-use
them on the new one that I made. Also reused the short strap that holds the
Larry - I'm also not up on the latest ways the Guvmint is willing to
help us, but I do know that between them and the industry, they don't make
it easy.
For example, even though D-C manufactures Mercedes-Benz cars with all the
USA specs, they will only let you order them through a US dealer,
Larry - you are correct that there is an immense difference between
qualifying for the PRIVILEGE of driving in Europe versus the RIGHT to drive
in the USA.
But FYI, some of us in MBCA are trying to get a program going, building on
what BMWCCA, AARP, AAA, and the insurance industry has already
Larry - a better car to train teens would be a stick shift 240D without air
or radio, preferably with at least one flat so that they would have to learn
how to change a tire; then when the clutch got worn out, they could also
learn another valuable lesson in maintenance by crawling under and
Harry - what was so bad about the 524TD? Mine (and everyone I've seen or
heard of around here) has given excellent service, and the owners seem to be
happy with the cars. My wife and I agree that short of an AMG set up in a
M-B, the '85 524TD we had handled much better than any M-B we've ever
, Werner Fehlauer at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
IMO, letting an 18 year old into a 3 series BMW or a 'vette is putting
them
in serious harm's way!
Nothing short of insane, frankly.
At least the ridiculous insurance premiums here in Canada have largely put
an end to that sort of ill-advised parental
Tarek - what are the paint and interior codes for that SDL? It kind of
looks to me like it may be a gray market (Euro car, as the interior color
seems to be rare).
I have a standard US '83SD, polar white (737) with light tan/palomino (254)
leather, which is fairly common. But it sure would be
Kevin - the 126 trunk area is famous for getting water inside, and often it
is coming from around the rear window. It seems that the metal around the
lower part of the window starts to rust, and water then gets into the trunk.
Of course, the drains from each side well must remain clear, or you
!
On 12/3/06, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Just so we all know what MBUSA is keeping from us, here is the current
line-up of what M-B offers in Germany:
E-Class -
E200 CDI(2.1 L 4 cyl)
E220 CDI
E280 CDI(3.0 L V6)
E280 CDI 4Matic
E320 CDI(3.0 L V6)
E320 CDI 4Matic
E420 CDI
there and bring it into the State what kind of hurdles are
we looking at?
- Original Message -
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] M-B Diesels/Big Brother/Big Industry
Just
The only way to repair leakage around the back window of a 126 (that will
last for any length of time) is to remove the window and seals, repair the
rusted metal, and properly re-assemble. Unfortunately, it is very easy to
break the glass in getting it out, so professional help is very much
Matt - generally, the USA has a much higher accident/fatality rate, but that
is mostly due to the negligent way the states parcel out driver's licenses
to anyone that has the few dollars fee. Rarely is any degree of actual
driving competence needed, or tested.
Most European countries require
There's seat cushion up and down in front and back (4 motions), seat cushion
forward and backward (2 motions),and backrest upright and flat (2 motions).
And in some cars, you can add in headrest up and down (2 more motions).
Werner
- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL
and recklessly they drove, however. It seems we
have a great deal of variability within the 50 states, e.g., Denver
drivers
are better than those in DC (especially when it snows).
On 12/4/06, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Matt - generally, the USA has a much higher accident/fatality rate
Kevin -
The advantage of using 1/8 masonite stock is that it more closely
approximates the original material, and makes using the original hinges
possible. The extra piece that I glued to it in the center area was to make
it stronger, to resist bending under the loads typically put in the
Although more than half of BMWs are Diesels, both in turbo and non-turbo
form, they only brought in about 3500 into the USA in 1985 and 1986. These
ARE awesome cars, fast and excellent handling drivers. I drove my '85 for
almost 90k miles before getting my '90 300D 2.5, and made the big
The first M-B A Class vehicles did have a stability issue (the infamous
Swedish Moose test), which resulted in a big recall and redesign. AFAIK,
all the A Class cars now pass that test, so stability is no more of an issue
than in any other car. (and they don't make a 3.8L A Class, except the
The last item (the one still active) bears some caution. They advertise it
as a 524TD, but in the description its called a 525i, which is a 2.5 L gas
engine used in the NEXT series after this body style. The '85s came ONLY in
2.4L TurboDiesel and 2.8 L and 3.5 L gas engines in the USA.
Also,
Folks, why not take a flat soldering tip and melt a slot in the plastic
(the plug that broke is plastic, right?), then you can use a screwdriver to
turn it out?
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent:
Alan - most of that era drain plugs are either 13mm hex head, or 14mm Allen
head (differential). The big Allen is the hardest (but not impossible) to
come by, so its worth it to line one up before you crawl under.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Alan Duff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
LarryT - except for cars with oil coolers, which don't drain back to the
engine sump.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 84 380SL Oil Drain Plug
LarryT - Most of your questions have been answered already, except for what
differences to expect between the W126 of 1991 and the W140 of 1992. While
the W126 is already a big car (and some will say one of the best M-B large
sedans ever made), the W140 is BIGGER and heavier. Part of the
Just a few years ago, it was actually against the law in Italy (and perhaps
other European towns) to drive at night with bright headlamps. The theory
was that without the blinding glare of oncoming car headlights, it was much
easier to see pedestrians that often walked across city streets.
I think most people and authorities agree that with some kind of lights
turned on, a car (especially a gray or darker color, perhaps even dirty) on
a murky day is much more visible than one without lights on. Its the
implementation that I have an issue with, in that more and brighter are not
Jerry - the wood trim on M-Bs is typically real wood veneer, glued to a thin
piece of aluminum, which is glued to a plywood underlayment. It is pretty
difficult to glue this sandwich back together without taking the trim piece
out of the car, so that you can properly prepare the surfaces and
I'm getting occasional crunch noises from what appears to be the left rear
axle CV joints, and would like to learn more about what is involved in
repairing/replacing worn parts. For example, how much work is involved in
disassembly; what special tools are required; any special techniques that
FYI, D-C has been making the S class cars in both regular (note: NOT
short) and long wheelbase versions for some time. MBUSA, in its infinite
wisdom, selects what versions they import to the USA, which in some years is
only the L.
The latest S-class cars are available to others in the world in
CV joint repair advice?
Werner Fehlauer wrote:
I'm getting occasional crunch noises from what appears to be the left
rear
axle CV joints, and would like to learn more about what is involved in
repairing/replacing worn parts. For example, how much work is involved
in
disassembly; what special
Well, also missing from the list was whether or not to use synthetic or dino
lube to facilitate proper insertion (now another thread?), or what the
former would do to the gaskets(seals) if the fixture was made before
1967.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL
Peter - what is the original color/interior of the SDL?
Werner
- Original Message -
From: Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 6:07 AM
Subject: [MBZ] My 300SDL is available
Makes me sad but it has to go. It's a good driver and
Andrew - they want to make sure you didn't just copy a VIN number through
the windshield, as the complete production record includes the key coding.
A thief could then, in theory, make off with someone else's car. I was told
that a title or registration paper would suffice. Of course, that
Bob - you can contact the MBUSA Classic Center, where they can access all
the info for your car. They can send you a complete list of all the
production codes, serial numbers, etc. The only obstacle is that they will
need to be able to verify that you are the bono fide owner, since the data
Bob - we just got back (Sunday) from the last 50th Anniversary trip of the
year to the M-B facilities in and around Stuttgart. One of the stops was
the Euro delivery center, where they, on that day, rolled out the 25th
million car! There must have been 30 cars in the main floor, all ready to
Folks, I believe the term Q ship actually goes back at least to WW1,
whereWW2, they were still pretty effective.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 3:28 PM
Subject:
Bob - door checks, when not lubricated once in a while, tend to rust and
then break. The check function is made by a vertical tube on the inside
door part of the strap, that has a large steel ball bearing top and bottom,
loaded with a tough spring. The balls ride in a channel of the door
Kevin - I didn't know that '83SD cars had the memory seat function. My '84
did, and it was in a module under the driver's seat. But my '83 is just
straight switches in the doors, which can be carefully opened up and
contacts cleaned, and then they work as new.
Werner
- Original Message
want to go there badly. I hope to, someday, go there to pick up a car. I
certainly will visit there someday.
Maybe next year when my wife and daughter go to Austrailia I'll get to
Stuttgart.
Bob
- Original Message -
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Besides the obvious, usually inadvertent mis-spellings, there are common
errors in the use of terminology that violates the rules of proper English
language.
Nouns based on people's names should have the first letter capitalized - and
the biggest examples appear on these lists: diesel came
Luther - Even though I suspect that you probably have a European heritage
like many of us, but like it or not, English forms the foundation of what we
commonly call the American language. I wouldn't dare to even try and make
you a British/English citizen! ;-))
Actually, I'm of the opinion
One of the main reasons to get Mobil1 Truck and SUV oil was to save a few
cents over the price of Delvac1. The last time I bought Delvac 1 a few
months back, it cost me $5.50 a quart, based on $22 for a gallon jug. It
appears that the price differential is getting pretty small? Besides local
Don - if you think the 602 engines are too quiet, then you'll really hate
the new CDI engines. You have to listen very closely to tell the difference
from a gasser!
Werner
WB2BRB
'90 D 221k
'83SD 210k
'87 F150 4x4 78k
'99 John Deere 4100 400 hrs
- Original Message -
From: OK Don
How about Heidi?
Werner
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] name my car
Zsa Zsa
On 2/25/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1992 300D 2.5T, smoke
John - just under the rear/bottom of the radiator, the transmission oil
cooler lines transition from rubber the steel, which often rust as the area
collects moisture, and is easy to overlook (especially if you use topsider
oil changes).
I wirebrushed the steel lines and primed and painted them
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