Steve MacSween wrote:
Changed the t-stat today. Initially car idled at ~85, left idling for 30
mins.
Immediately that I went out on the road the temp gauge shot up to 115 or so,
then equally as fast returned to normal (a block or two later).
Then crept back up to around 100, in suburban
on 5/23/06 8:52 PM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What are you asking - telling us? If temps are running high after
removing some and replacing coolant, it's almost always because there is
a LARGE air bubble. Filling through the top hose is a common cure.
Okay, if you have an air
There is another trick, too -- fill the reservoir, the squeeze the
upper radiator hose flat. While holding it, crimp the line from
radiator to reservoir shut, then release radiator hose. This will pull
coolant out of the reservoir into the block. Repeat until no more
coolant goes into the
Steve MacSween wrote:
on 5/23/06 8:52 PM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What are you asking - telling us? If temps are running high after
removing some and replacing coolant, it's almost always because there is
a LARGE air bubble. Filling through the top hose is a common cure.
Peter Frederick wrote:
There is another trick, too -- fill the reservoir, the squeeze the
upper radiator hose flat. While holding it, crimp the line from
radiator to reservoir shut, then release radiator hose. This will pull
coolant out of the reservoir into the block. Repeat until no more
So with no air at the t-stat, why is the top hose hot and the lower
hose
cold? Where else can an air bubble sit and cause this behaviour?
If you indeed have no air bubble, the hose temperatures indicate that
the radiator is not getting coolant flow through it. That can be
because
of an air
Any chance the water pump belt is slipping, or any chance it is a
aftermarket water pump with a stamped impeller, rather than the OE cast
iron impeller on the water pump?
Is the electric Aux fan cycling as designed?
Sounds like you are making some progress.
At 07:46 PM 5/23/2006, you wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
Any chance the water pump belt is slipping, or any chance it is a
aftermarket water pump with a stamped impeller, rather than the OE cast
iron impeller on the water pump?
Is the electric Aux fan cycling as designed?
Sounds like you are making some progress.
Aux fan on a
OK, I agree with the air bubble possibility. I never had an SD, so I am
not as familiar with the Aux fan function as others.
At 09:01 PM 5/23/2006, you wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
Any chance the water pump belt is slipping, or any chance it is a
aftermarket water pump with a stamped impeller,
you need a new radiator.
Steve MacSween wrote:
Changed the t-stat today. Initially car idled at ~85, left idling for 30
mins.
Immediately that I went out on the road the temp gauge shot up to 115 or so,
then equally as fast returned to normal (a block or two later).
Then crept back up to
:49 -0400
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SD run-hot update
Steve MacSween wrote:
on 5/23/06 8:52 PM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What are you asking - telling us? If temps are running high after
removing some and replacing coolant, it's almost always because there is
a LARGE air bubble
on 5/23/06 9:18 AM, Peter Frederick at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There is another trick, too -- fill the reservoir, the squeeze the
upper radiator hose flat. While holding it, crimp the line from
radiator to reservoir shut, then release radiator hose. This will pull
coolant out of the
On May 23, 2006, at 8:46 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:
Immediately that I went out on the road the temp gauge shot up to
115 or so,
then equally as fast returned to normal (a block or two later).
Then crept back up to around 100, in suburban driving conditions,
and did
not budge thereafter.
On May 23, 2006, at 8:58 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:
So with no air at the t-stat, why is the top hose hot and the lower
hose
cold? Where else can an air bubble sit and cause this behaviour?
I can drain and refill the system through the top hose if required,
but I
would like to better
The overheating episode I had on my 190Dt was sort of
bizarre but WAS caused by a Laso pump with plastic
impleller. The Laso pump was installed maybe 3 years
ago when the old one started leaking. Right after
replacing the water pump, the car was running a few
degrees higher (87 degree instead of
on 5/24/06 8:24 AM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sometimes the temp gets much higher than that after draining and
refilling the cooling system.
Oh, it did, we had to shut it down twice and let it cool, then restart,
before the t-stat decided to open.
It burped. Did you need to
On May 24, 2006, at 12:36 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:
on 5/24/06 8:24 AM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sometimes the temp gets much higher than that after draining and
refilling the cooling system.
Oh, it did, we had to shut it down twice and let it cool, then
restart,
before
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The dash light for the glow plug in my 1980 SD blinks for 15-30 seconds after
the car starts. I don't know when it started doing this, since the car is now
being driven by my son. Does not seem to have any effect on the car, but I'm
wondering if it's some kind of
well that is wierd then.
Kevin Beswick wrote:
Thanks. I thought it might, but I have had bad glow plugs before with
no blinking, on this car too.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
it means you have a bad glow plug.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87
There is no guarantee that the light will blink, when a glow plug is bad.
When I got my car the glow plugs were shot, but the night never blinked
until three years later when one of the plugs I had installed at purchase,
died.
Two observations: (1), my shop told me they had found it also
The dash light for the glow plug in my 1980 SD blinks for 15-30 seconds after
the car starts. I don't know when it started doing this, since the car is now
being driven by my son. Does not seem to have any effect on the car, but I'm
wondering if it's some kind of code. Anyone know?
TIA
Thanks. I thought it might, but I have had bad glow plugs before with
no blinking, on this car too.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
it means you have a bad glow plug.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The dash light for the glow plug in my 1980 SD blinks for 15-30 seconds after
the car starts. I
mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SD Glow Plug Light Blinking
Thanks. I thought it might, but I have had bad glow plugs before with
no blinking, on this car too.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
it means you have a bad glow plug.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The dash light for the glow plug in my 1980
Hey Kaleb,
How's everything going? The car's doing good still, just starting to have
some problems with it. The cluster isn't all functioning, so will have to get
that repaired.
There's several vacuum leaks which are affecting systems. We upgraded to the
manhole cover rims, got a
I may need for an '85 300SD
1. LR window motor
2. AC controller (the right name, I don't know?? )
Anyone got an SD parts car w/ these to spare?
Thanks
-chris
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7982946036rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AITrd=1
chris granju wrote:
I may need for an '85 300SD
1. LR window motor
2. AC controller (the right name, I don't know?? )
Anyone got an SD parts car w/ these to spare?
Thanks
-chris
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