Re: [MBZ] 190D slush-to-stick progress report
My 190D had the same problem rust-wise. Muffler shops I contacted weren't interested in repairing, said it would be too expensive. Told me that a new pipe was available and quoted that price at something like $200 installed. This would be a drop-off kind of proposition, they'd do it I'm sure. Same place that fabbed the pieces for the genset's exhaust system. I'd do it entirely myself except I don't have the requisite pipe bender. Needless to say, rusty beat that - think the part arrived kaleb style (pipe with a shipping label) on my porch for around fifty bucks. That doesn't sound too bad. If I can't frankenstein together the two exhaust systems I already have maybe I'll go that way. More progress: ...Later today I went back out and finished removing the transmission. Harder than it looked, there were _four_ bolts left, not two, and I managed to break off the throttle cable attachment. The 2-foot socket extensions and the swivel joint were, as before, instrumental in getting all the bolts out. Also as before, my CCPOS transmission jack is too tall, and the tranny was trapped beneath the car. But with enough fooling around, and partial disassembly of the jack's cradle, I was able to get it wrestled to the ground. Of interest is that this is a _used_ transmission, both it and the torque converter have grease paint numbers scrawled on them. Obviously it didn't hold up too well. -- Jim
[MBZ] 190D slush-to-stick progress report
Finally I begin. I removed the exhaust system, and found that the front section (before the first muffler [of three]) is indeed rotted through, about where the support over to the transmission used to be (it's gone, too). I may be able to combine the two exhaust systems to get one good one. If not, a repair at the muffler shop shouldn't cost much at all. The problem area is just pipe. Next I removed the driveline, that went well. I then unhooked most of the transmission impedimenta, wires, mounts and such, and then drained it and the torque converter. The fluid didn't look too bad, but there was a bit of milkiness to it at the end. The six bolts holding the converter to the flywheel and flex plate are out, as are all but two of the bell housing bolts. The two hard-to-get-at bolts are all that remains holding it in, or so I believe. Getting a wrench on the front crank bolt was a pain, and in doing so I found that the radiator is quite bent from the wreck. Doesn't seem to leak, though. It looks like this car indeed had two belly pans at one time, both are missing. It's got the two side shark-gill panels, all in all it looks just like the SDL underneath, but smaller. I may be able to fabricate something like I did for the SDL. There is little to no rust underneath, excepting a piece of what looks like pipe underneath the radiator that's rotted through and the stuff that's attacking the jack points. The car has a block heater, but no cord. Just a nice cap over the connections. The donor car has a cord, so I'll be taking that. The steering damper is totally shot, there's no resistance in it at all. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 190D slush-to-stick progress report
On Wed, Feb 15, 2006 at 12:09:15PM -0800, Jim Cathey wrote: Finally I begin. I removed the exhaust system, and found that the front section (before the first muffler [of three]) is indeed rotted through, about where the support over to the transmission used to be (it's gone, too). I may be able to combine the two exhaust systems to get one good one. If not, a repair at the muffler shop shouldn't cost much at all. The problem area is just pipe. Jim, My 190D had the same problem rust-wise. Muffler shops I contacted weren't interested in repairing, said it would be too expensive. Told me that a new pipe was available and quoted that price at something like $200 installed. Needless to say, rusty beat that - think the part arrived kaleb style (pipe with a shipping label) on my porch for around fifty bucks. K
