Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-27 Thread harry watkins






Radio inop, but it was calling for a code.  I have a Becker upgrade for 
that.


There is a code decoder application for the PC.


I'm not sure I understand.  Is this software that will give me a code?

Dome light inop when door is opened.  He got a new switch assembly from 
Rusty that he hasn't delivered to me yet.


Driver's side?  That can also be a blown diode in
the warning module.  Have you ever noticed that when
you open the passenger door, only the passenger-side
lights go on?


I'll check it out, I know the light works in the on position but not when in 
the door position with the driver's door.  I'll report back and will need 
more info on that diode.


The other electrical problem he had was the inop blower motor.  The Indy put 
in a new blower assembly and I cured it with the aux. 30 amp fuse kit from 
Rusty, the only money I've spent so far.


Thanks
Harry



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-27 Thread Jim Cathey

There is a code decoder application for the PC.

I'm not sure I understand.  Is this software that will give me a code?


Yes.  Becker NA will also give you the code for $20.
I'm doing that for this used Traffic Pro 7881 I'm trying
to put into the SEL.

I'll check it out, I know the light works in the on position but not 
when in the door position with the driver's door.  I'll report back 
and will need more info on that diode.


Other symptoms too, such as does the key-in or lights-on buzzer
work when the door is opened; does the seat adjustment work with
the door open and the key off?

You can open the warning module and repair the diode, if that's
the problem, or you can just replace the warning module.  Depends
on how cheap you are, and whether or not you can solder and such.
(I: cheap as anything and a solderin' fool.  Sometimes I regret it.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-27 Thread Dieselhead

Harry,
If you call the Rusty with the VIN, he can give you the radio code. 
The $20 is optional.



Radio inop, but it was calling for a code.  I have a Becker 
upgrade for that.


There is a code decoder application for the PC.


I'm not sure I understand.  Is this software that will give me a code?

Dome light inop when door is opened.  He got a new switch assembly 
from Rusty that he hasn't delivered to me yet.


Driver's side?  That can also be a blown diode in
the warning module.  Have you ever noticed that when
you open the passenger door, only the passenger-side
lights go on?


I'll check it out, I know the light works in the on position but not 
when in the door position with the driver's door.  I'll report back 
and will need more info on that diode.


The other electrical problem he had was the inop blower motor.  The 
Indy put in a new blower assembly and I cured it with the aux. 30 
amp fuse kit from Rusty, the only money I've spent so far.


Thanks
Harry



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread harry watkins



My $2.99 HF VOM fluctuates between 64 and 65 ma.
Is that enough drain to cause a problem?


Sounds a bit on the high side.

-- Jim


Thanks Jim, what would run on 60 mA?  Maybe a small bulb?

Let me correct one thing.  The fluctuation was from 60 to 65 on the meter, 
one increment.  When I pulled fuse # 2 it settled to 60 mA, so I assume it 
was the clock.


When I opened the driver's door the reading went to 150 and back to 60 when 
closed, after the delay for the dome light.


When I opened the trunk, the fuse in my meter blew when the needled maxed 
out.


Does this sound like a wire short?

Thanks
Harry 



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Doesn't come anywhere close to a wire short.  Worst case is you have a
power consumer that is aging or somehow failed and using more power than
it should.

Do you have a radio with memory which needs power when key is removed
from ignition? An alarm system?

How long does it take for the battery to die when the car just sits?  It
probably should be able to last at least a week or two.  If you're
asking it to sit for a month or more, you probably should get a float
charger, or just disconnect the battery.


-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of harry watkins
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 8:11 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL


 My $2.99 HF VOM fluctuates between 64 and 65 ma.
 Is that enough drain to cause a problem?

 Sounds a bit on the high side.

 -- Jim

Thanks Jim, what would run on 60 mA?  Maybe a small bulb?

Let me correct one thing.  The fluctuation was from 60 to 65 on the
meter, one increment.  When I pulled fuse # 2 it settled to 60 mA, so I
assume it was the clock.

When I opened the driver's door the reading went to 150 and back to 60
when closed, after the delay for the dome light.

When I opened the trunk, the fuse in my meter blew when the needled
maxed out.

Does this sound like a wire short?

Thanks
Harry 


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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread Jim Cathey

My $2.99 HF VOM fluctuates between 64 and 65 ma.

what would run on 60 mA?  Maybe a small bulb?
Let me correct one thing.  The fluctuation was from 60 to 65 on the 
meter, one increment.  When I pulled fuse # 2 it settled to 60 mA, so 
I assume it was the clock.


Things that can draw static power:
1) Clock
2) Radio
3) Antenna
4) Central locking system
5) Alarm system
6) Dome light timer
7) Leaky alternator diode

60mA is pretty small for a bulb.  P=VI, so that would be a 3/4W
bulb.  Any one of these candidates could be 'leaking' internally,
and drawing more than it should.  Most of these are fused, so
if you can kill the load via fuse that's a clue that it's not
#7, or some grotesque wiring harness or ignition switch leak.

When I opened the driver's door the reading went to 150 and back to 60 
when closed, after the delay for the dome light.


150mA?  That's about a 1W light bulb.  Should be lots more than
that, more like amps.  Two 5W bulbs in the doors, plus a 10W in the
dome.  Call it 20W, or 1.6A.  You overwhelming the meter?  On a
Fluke, this is a $10 mistake.

When I opened the trunk, the fuse in my meter blew when the needled 
maxed out.

Does this sound like a wire short?


Possibly, I've had them.  People mis-wire trunk switch/light
assemblies, and the wire through the hinge is vulnerable.
There are three wires on the trunk light assembly (one's the
alarm system); if you swap the wrong two the fuse blows every
time you open the trunk.  The normal load should have been a
10W bulb, or 850mA.

The typical car battery is, let's say, 75 amp-hours.  Translation:
A one amp draw for seventy-five hours will _completely_ exhaust
the battery.  (And it would be unable to start the car well before
that.)  A 65mA load should do the job in 1100 hours, but if you
burn a full quarter of the battery (in 250 hours) I'd say it was
unacceptable.  Ten days.  A 20mA draw would be more like a month,
which is probably acceptable.

I don't know what the normal base load is on an SDL.  Maybe I ought
to, owning one and all, but I don't.  I may have measured it, but
in the early days I didn't keep a very detailed journal of what I
did.  It was only my second MB, after all.

I can tell you that a variable 200-350mA leak in Jill's SL was enough
to prevent starting if she didn't drive daily.  A keyless entry system
was about 10mA.  I didn't note the draw after the fix, how smart's that?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread harry watkins

Jim, Max

I pulled four fuses that got me to 0 mA.

#2  which took the clock flux out.

(a)  Is drawing 25 mA.  Front seat adjustment, jacket tube adjustment 
memory.


(b)  Is drawing 25 mA.  Front seat adjustment, jacket tube adjustment. 
(nothing about memory)


#15  Is drawing ~10 mA.  One of the nine items it protects is Control unit, 
seat adjustment memory.


What say you guys?  Am I done?

Thanks
Harry





Things that can draw static power:
1) Clock
2) Radio
3) Antenna
4) Central locking system
5) Alarm system
6) Dome light timer
7) Leaky alternator diode

60mA is pretty small for a bulb.  P=VI, so that would be a 3/4W
bulb.  Any one of these candidates could be 'leaking' internally,
and drawing more than it should.  Most of these are fused, so
if you can kill the load via fuse that's a clue that it's not
#7, or some grotesque wiring harness or ignition switch leak.

When I opened the driver's door the reading went to 150 and back to 60 
when closed, after the delay for the dome light.


150mA?  That's about a 1W light bulb.  Should be lots more than
that, more like amps.  Two 5W bulbs in the doors, plus a 10W in the
dome.  Call it 20W, or 1.6A.  You overwhelming the meter?  On a
Fluke, this is a $10 mistake.

When I opened the trunk, the fuse in my meter blew when the needled maxed 
out.

Does this sound like a wire short?


Possibly, I've had them.  People mis-wire trunk switch/light
assemblies, and the wire through the hinge is vulnerable.
There are three wires on the trunk light assembly (one's the
alarm system); if you swap the wrong two the fuse blows every
time you open the trunk.  The normal load should have been a
10W bulb, or 850mA.

The typical car battery is, let's say, 75 amp-hours.  Translation:
A one amp draw for seventy-five hours will _completely_ exhaust
the battery.  (And it would be unable to start the car well before
that.)  A 65mA load should do the job in 1100 hours, but if you
burn a full quarter of the battery (in 250 hours) I'd say it was
unacceptable.  Ten days.  A 20mA draw would be more like a month,
which is probably acceptable.

I don't know what the normal base load is on an SDL.  Maybe I ought
to, owning one and all, but I don't.  I may have measured it, but
in the early days I didn't keep a very detailed journal of what I
did.  It was only my second MB, after all.

I can tell you that a variable 200-350mA leak in Jill's SL was enough
to prevent starting if she didn't drive daily.  A keyless entry system
was about 10mA.  I didn't note the draw after the fix, how smart's that?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
What problem are you trying to fix?  I don't think that ~65mA is
terrible, and if you plan to leave the car parked for long periods I'd
recommend either disconnecting the battery or installing a float
charger.

I'm far from an expert on the front seat adjustments, but 25 mA draw on
two different circuits with key off seems excessive to me.  You may want
to find a friend with car with same seats to see if they get similar
results.  I know that on my 124 wagon with memory front seat, battery
won't last more than a couple weeks of sitting, but I've never measured
the key off current draw.

I bought a float charger for my wagon a couple years ago, and installed
a jack under the driver's side dash to plug it in.  There's a hot
circuit under the dash on left side with a nice 10mm nut on a stud where
I attached the positive lead, found a ground point somewhere down there.
When I'm leaving town for more than a couple weeks, I park the car in
the garage and crack the driver's window to feed in the extension cord.
Plug the float charger in and leave it on the dash so I can see the
lights to make sure it's working with just a glance from the garage
entrance.  Works like a charm.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of harry watkins
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 11:51 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

Jim, Max

I pulled four fuses that got me to 0 mA.

#2  which took the clock flux out.

(a)  Is drawing 25 mA.  Front seat adjustment, jacket tube adjustment
memory.

(b)  Is drawing 25 mA.  Front seat adjustment, jacket tube adjustment.

(nothing about memory)

#15  Is drawing ~10 mA.  One of the nine items it protects is Control
unit, seat adjustment memory.

What say you guys?  Am I done?

Thanks
Harry




 Things that can draw static power:
 1) Clock
 2) Radio
 3) Antenna
 4) Central locking system
 5) Alarm system
 6) Dome light timer
 7) Leaky alternator diode

 60mA is pretty small for a bulb.  P=VI, so that would be a 3/4W bulb.

 Any one of these candidates could be 'leaking' internally, and drawing

 more than it should.  Most of these are fused, so if you can kill the 
 load via fuse that's a clue that it's not #7, or some grotesque wiring

 harness or ignition switch leak.

 When I opened the driver's door the reading went to 150 and back to 
 60 when closed, after the delay for the dome light.

 150mA?  That's about a 1W light bulb.  Should be lots more than that, 
 more like amps.  Two 5W bulbs in the doors, plus a 10W in the dome.  
 Call it 20W, or 1.6A.  You overwhelming the meter?  On a Fluke, this 
 is a $10 mistake.

 When I opened the trunk, the fuse in my meter blew when the needled 
 maxed out.
 Does this sound like a wire short?

 Possibly, I've had them.  People mis-wire trunk switch/light 
 assemblies, and the wire through the hinge is vulnerable.
 There are three wires on the trunk light assembly (one's the alarm 
 system); if you swap the wrong two the fuse blows every time you open 
 the trunk.  The normal load should have been a 10W bulb, or 850mA.

 The typical car battery is, let's say, 75 amp-hours.  Translation:
 A one amp draw for seventy-five hours will _completely_ exhaust the 
 battery.  (And it would be unable to start the car well before
 that.)  A 65mA load should do the job in 1100 hours, but if you burn a

 full quarter of the battery (in 250 hours) I'd say it was 
 unacceptable.  Ten days.  A 20mA draw would be more like a month, 
 which is probably acceptable.

 I don't know what the normal base load is on an SDL.  Maybe I ought 
 to, owning one and all, but I don't.  I may have measured it, but in 
 the early days I didn't keep a very detailed journal of what I did.  
 It was only my second MB, after all.

 I can tell you that a variable 200-350mA leak in Jill's SL was enough 
 to prevent starting if she didn't drive daily.  A keyless entry system

 was about 10mA.  I didn't note the draw after the fix, how smart's
that?

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread Jim Cathey

I pulled four fuses that got me to 0 mA.
What say you guys?  Am I done?


I don't know, are you?  Can you live without
adjustable seats?  If you move the seat power
feed to switched +12, you'd lose the memory
but also any chance of drain while off.
Fusebox surgery?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 08:56:05 -0500 Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

 How long does it take for the battery to die when the car just sits?  It
 probably should be able to last at least a week or two.  If you're
 asking it to sit for a month or more, you probably should get a float
 charger, or just disconnect the battery.

Actually, the battery should be charged at least once per month.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread harry watkins

Thanks again Max and Jim.

I was checking out a PO statement that he thought there was a drain.  He 
listed four electrical problems that his Indy failed to fix after many $$$.


Both seats had no movement.  That turned out to be the seat relay and the 
aux. fuse holder had been switched in their slots.


Driver's window was a broken switch that I glued back and swapped it with a 
rear window switch.


Radio inop, but it was calling for a code.  I have a Becker upgrade for 
that.


Dome light inop when door is opened.  He got a new switch assembly from 
Rusty that he hasn't delivered to me yet.


When that and the passenger window is fixed, I can't name anything else that 
won't work.


I'm not going to fool with the drain until I know its a problem.  Like you 
suggested, maybe someone with an SDL can confirm my readings.  I don't need 
or use the memory feature so I may be able to disconnect it.


Thank
Harry




What problem are you trying to fix?  I don't think that ~65mA is
terrible, and if you plan to leave the car parked for long periods I'd
recommend either disconnecting the battery or installing a float
charger.

I'm far from an expert on the front seat adjustments, but 25 mA draw on
two different circuits with key off seems excessive to me.  You may want
to find a friend with car with same seats to see if they get similar
results.  I know that on my 124 wagon with memory front seat, battery
won't last more than a couple weeks of sitting, but I've never measured
the key off current draw.

I bought a float charger for my wagon a couple years ago, and installed
a jack under the driver's side dash to plug it in.  There's a hot
circuit under the dash on left side with a nice 10mm nut on a stud where
I attached the positive lead, found a ground point somewhere down there.
When I'm leaving town for more than a couple weeks, I park the car in
the garage and crack the driver's window to feed in the extension cord.
Plug the float charger in and leave it on the dash so I can see the
lights to make sure it's working with just a glance from the garage
entrance.  Works like a charm.

-Max



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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-26 Thread Jim Cathey

Actually, the battery should be charged at least once per month.


If the battery is disconnected, all winter/summer is not a problem
around here.  But that wretched parasitic drain will do them in
otherwise if you don't float them or stay on top of charging them.

Radio inop, but it was calling for a code.  I have a Becker upgrade 
for that.


There is a code decoder application for the PC.

Dome light inop when door is opened.  He got a new switch assembly 
from Rusty that he hasn't delivered to me yet.


Driver's side?  That can also be a blown diode in
the warning module.  Have you ever noticed that when
you open the passenger door, only the passenger-side
lights go on?

-- Jim



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[MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-25 Thread harry watkins
My $2.99 HF VOM fluctuates between 64 and 65 ma.

I used the Cathey procedure to connect in series from the neg. post to the neg. 
cable.

Is that enough drain to cause a problem?

Thanks
Harry

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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-25 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I don't think that sounds too bad, but I'd prefer to see something less
than 20 mA.  Recommend you wait for someone more familiar with your
car...

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of harry watkins
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 2:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

My $2.99 HF VOM fluctuates between 64 and 65 ma.

I used the Cathey procedure to connect in series from the neg. post to
the neg. cable.

Is that enough drain to cause a problem?

Thanks
Harry

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Re: [MBZ] Battery drain, 86 SDL

2010-01-25 Thread Jim Cathey

My $2.99 HF VOM fluctuates between 64 and 65 ma.
Is that enough drain to cause a problem?


Sounds a bit on the high side.

-- Jim



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