Re: [MBZ] Knock slosh

2009-09-22 Thread Redghost
lines are new and dry.  The leak is at the junction, no fluid above  
there leaking down.  I have made sure the hard lines are tight to  
torque.  Did a almost there, loosen, take it to torque, back off, to  
torque again procedure.  No leaks out the tops.


If the heat shields need to come out every time the injectors come  
out, I will order some and get the leak in the body dealt with too.   
Will I need to redo the calibration for pop?


clay




On Sep 21, 2009, at 6:07 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

You really should replace the heat shields.  They also seal the  
injector to the pre-chamber, and if they leak, you get low  
compression and pretty serious injector knock.  You will get air  
bubbling up around the injector threads if they are bad.


If the bodies are leaking, make SURE there is no lint or anything on  
the sealing surfaces before you torque them down again.  Even a  
trace of shop cloth lint will make them leak, and that also means  
they open late from low pressure, and it will knock like crazy.


Verify that it's the actual injector leaking, and not the overflow  
lines, too.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Knock slosh

2009-09-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Calibration is set by internal shims, so it wills stay the same  
unless there is a huge chunk of crud.


If you have the old style seals, they can be a real pain to remove.

Peter

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[MBZ] Knock slosh

2009-09-21 Thread Redghost
Got the injectors installed and Gump starts and runs with more power  
than I recall her ever having.


Problem is that the injectors are leaking at the body and I have a  
pretty severe knock coming on.  I did not replace the spacer in each  
cylinder, just left what was there in.  I think they are all the same  
anyway.


I guess I need to remove and retorque the injectors to deal with the  
leaking fuel, but what else should I be doing?


clay 


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Re: [MBZ] Knock slosh

2009-09-21 Thread Peter Frederick
You really should replace the heat shields.  They also seal the  
injector to the pre-chamber, and if they leak, you get low  
compression and pretty serious injector knock.  You will get air  
bubbling up around the injector threads if they are bad.


If the bodies are leaking, make SURE there is no lint or anything on  
the sealing surfaces before you torque them down again.  Even a trace  
of shop cloth lint will make them leak, and that also means they open  
late from low pressure, and it will knock like crazy.


Verify that it's the actual injector leaking, and not the overflow  
lines, too.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Knock slosh

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth
Do you have the hard return lines on that engine?  Those are a collar 
type fitting held down with a nut.   They can be buggers to get 
sealed.  You can try loosening the banjo bolt where the collar meets 
the hard line.  that allows some flexibility.


Peter is right, of course about the body seal and the crush 
washer/heat shield between the tip and the prechamber.  Those have to 
be replaces each time the injector nozzle holder is removed.


At 07:12 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Got the injectors installed and Gump starts and runs with more power
than I recall her ever having.

Problem is that the injectors are leaking at the body and I have a
pretty severe knock coming on.  I did not replace the spacer in each
cylinder, just left what was there in.  I think they are all the same
anyway.

I guess I need to remove and retorque the injectors to deal with the
leaking fuel, but what else should I be doing?

clay
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Loren Faeth 



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