> archer wrote:
>> Glad to know that. I'll check with him and get the speedometer/odometer
>> if
>> necessary. If it was an '85, would the diff be higher or lower ratio?
>
> '83 should be 3.07:1, I think '85 is 2.88:1, which is about 7% taller.
> I believe the ratio is stamped on the housing s
Not bad. I found an $80 used driveshaft, and I am going to try that
first. If it shakes too, then I will be able to send one off and not
have the car down for 2-3 weeks while I send the driveshaft out somewhere.
At 05:37 AM 5/1/2008, you wrote:
>This as 3-4 years ago, but I think they charged
> What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft? I have had
> prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend that much.
I seem to recall that the outfit in Portland that did my 560 SL's
U-joint, with balancing, was somewhere in the $200-300 range.
(It was subcontracted by the shop that
This as 3-4 years ago, but I think they charged me
around $200.
Dan
--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Dan,
>
> What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft?
> I have had
> prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend
> that much. 900 is
> getting close to a Rusty pr
Dan,
What kind of money did they want to balance a shaft? I have had
prices of $700 to 900, and I am too cheap to spend that much. 900 is
getting close to a Rusty price for a new drive shaft I think.
> > > These are the guys. They're more into truck and
> > heavy equipment stuff,
> > > but
You're welcome, Gerry.
And I *don't* think you would want to be living in
Palm River these days it's not the nicest part of
town, unless you're looking for illicit behavior or
articles.
Dan
--- archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I know where that is. Lived near Palm River many
> years
archer wrote:
> Glad to know that. I'll check with him and get the speedometer/odometer if
> necessary. If it was an '85, would the diff be higher or lower ratio?
'83 should be 3.07:1, I think '85 is 2.88:1, which is about 7% taller.
I believe the ratio is stamped on the housing somewhere. Not
I know where that is. Lived near Palm River many years ago.
Thanks, Dan.
Gerry
-
From: "LWB250" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> These are the guys. They're more into truck and heavy equipment stuff,
> but they did a good job and worked with me to get it right.
>
>
> archer wrote:
>> newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind of alignment marks or
>> special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the
>> flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
---
> Should just bolt up. Did y
There has been an increasing amount of play in the gears, Jim. I had
planned to put in a new diff support and run it as long as possible, but
then one of axle boots started leaking so I decided to replace both the diff
and the axle while I was at it. I've already received the diff,
transmissi
The only thing to watch for on the flex disc coupling at either end of the
drive shaft is the direction that the disc is installed. There is an arrow on
the disc that indicates the front of the vehicle, I believe. Do check the
manual and confirm this, as it's been a while since I've done one.
fferential?
Thanks,
Gerry
-Original Message-
From: archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 6:16 am
Subject: Re: [MBZ] bad vibration
Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?
I have a vibration at speeds over a
These are the guys. They're more into truck and heavy equipment stuff, but
they did a good job and worked with me to get it right.
Florida Powertrain & Hydraulics Inc
6501 Adamo Dr | Tampa, FL 33619
PH: (813) 623-6713 | FX: (813) 623-6713
archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Do you reca
archer wrote:
> newer than the one on the car. Are there any kind of alignment marks or
> special things to watch out for if I just bolt the drive shaft on to the
> flex disc that's already mounted on the differential?
Should just bolt up. Did your new diff come from a 82-85 turbo?
If the donor w
Do you recall the name of the drive shaft repair place in Tampa, Dan?
I have a vibration at speeds over about 55mph on my '83 300D which I hope
will be cured by replacing a bad axle and noisy differential.
The differential I got locally was unbolted at the flex disc which looks
newer than the
yea, thats it. I knew the engine was replaced, but couldnt remember
that was what lead to the driveshaft being seperated. Im going to get
under there this weekend and see if I can line it up
OK Don wrote:
> I told you that the engine was replaced by the PO - prior to me - and
> that it has had
Kaleb knows this story, but for the benefit of those who don't
I had a 250LWB, which is a 123 chassis that's been stretched (by the factory)
for use as a taxi. This particular chassis, due to the length, has a three
piece drive shaft, meaning two flex disk, two center bearings, and thr
> Man that sure seems beyond my "rigging" skills
A 2x6 and some C-clamps? Not rocket science!
Try looking for misaligned marks first, though. :-)
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used
> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt
> put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me. So by this
> year are the halves supposed to be marked? That would sure make life
> MUCH easier.
As I mentioned before, by this time they were certainly marked
at th
I told you that the engine was replaced by the PO - prior to me - and
that it has had the vibration as long as I had it. I was considering
using the two hose clamps balancing method - just move one relative to
the other until it stops shaking. However, I just drove above or
(sometimes) below the sp
thanks!!
Peter Frederick wrote:
> In order:
>
> Check for damage to the shaft (even a dent will make it shake).
>
> Check for condition of flex disks -- any cracks, replace.
>
> Check center carrier and bearing -- a bad bearing can sound like a
> bad muffler, and the vibration will be centere
In order:
Check for damage to the shaft (even a dent will make it shake).
Check for condition of flex disks -- any cracks, replace.
Check center carrier and bearing -- a bad bearing can sound like a
bad muffler, and the vibration will be centered on the carrier, right
at the rear of the fron
I just got the car, was told something was replaced or something and the
shaft was apart then and not put back togehter correctly
Rolf wrote:
> I missed the beginning of this, did it suddenly occur following car
> work? Have the carrier bear/bushing / flexdisks / transmounts all been
> inspected?
oh yea, I will inspect for sure. Im sure it just needs to have the
marks lined up though. I cant for the life of me remember what OK Don
told me about that
LWB250 wrote:
> In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
> but you don't know the (whole) history, your best bet
> is to inspe
True, but you'll never know until you get the marks
aligned to begin with.
My point was to get a point of reference and then go
from there. You have to assume nothing is right to
begin with
Dan
--- Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm wondering if maybe somebody assembled a
> drive
I missed the beginning of this, did it suddenly occur following car
work? Have the carrier bear/bushing / flexdisks / transmounts all been
inspected?
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts e
LWB250 wrote:
>
> In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
> but you don't know the (whole) history...
I'm wondering if maybe somebody assembled a driveshaft out
of parts from two driveshafts. That would make the matchmarks
useless.
Mitch.
___
In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
but you don't know the (whole) history, your best bet
is to inspect the whole drive shaft, make sure
everything is lined up properly, and after you're
satisfied that it is, if the vibration persists, pull
the whole thing out and take it to a shop
Thanks, will check it out. Didnt know they were marked, so that should
be easy.
LWB250 wrote:
> Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
> earlier. I see no reason why they wouldn't have
> always been marked, as they have always been assembled
> and tested as a unit.
>
> Dig out a ser
Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
earlier. I see no reason why they wouldn't have
always been marked, as they have always been assembled
and tested as a unit.
Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
like. I can't do them
I'll trade you mine for it straight up
Luther
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 11:20:00 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt
> put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me. So by this
> year are the halves supp
Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt
put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me. So by this
year are the halves supposed to be marked? That would sure make life
MUCH easier.
LWB250 wrote:
> You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
> vibra
Man that sure seems beyond my "rigging" skills
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway. Would it be
>> best
>> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
>> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
>> sectio
No its a 87 300SDL
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/28/2008 9:26:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway. Would it be best
> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B:
You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over two
years.
First, give it a good visual inspection - drive shafts
don't "go bad." If you find the offending part, like
a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and take
it somewhere to get the jo
This was going to be my suggestion as well. Check parts that could wear
before assuming someone was stupid. If the parts are broken, you'll need to
replace them anyways.
That failing, if you have a complete prop shaft that is known to be good,
I'd probably swap that in rather than trying to rememb
Check the u-joint close up. Mine was bad but it took a close look to see
where it cracked open. I would select "A" if in your shoes, then do "B" if
I ever got in a tight for another one.
Harry
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 11:26 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Got a bad driveshaft
> Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway. Would it be
> best
> to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
> driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
> section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should
> be.
In a message dated 4/28/2008 9:26:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway. Would it be best
to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep m
Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway. Would it be best
to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should
be. Apparantl
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