Not only does it get to A but C too!
, Great car gets you to point A B & C
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I had my windshield replaced last month. After 230,000 miles it was
pretty pitted, though only one rock chip that didn't obstruct my view any.
The
new windshield developed a crack while it was sitting in the parking lot
at work last week. The first time I was it, it was about 3
It was caused by a rock, not the install. I heard the rock hit the
windshield while driving, but the crack didn't appear until later that day.
Probably the temperature change.
On Sat, Feb 18, 2012 at 2:45 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:
I had my windshield replaced last month. After
Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Well the problem with the vac pump is either the drive is bad
(probably a very low failure rate), the rubber diaphragm in the pump
is torn (highest probability I would think), and the little one-way
valves inside the vac pump are goobered up. #3, you can
I don't think the big tee has any kind of restriction in it, but I did
not examine the bits of the one I had to destroy to get the big lines
off it. I replaced it with the bodged-up brass barb/tee fitting and
everything works fine.
As far as whether it is the brake booster or vac pump, you
The brake boost vanished again on my way home tonight. When I got
home I disconnected the vacuum line from the booster and put my
mity-vac (my only vacuum gauge) on the line. No vacuum at all.
Then I disconnected the line at the other end and put my mity-vac on
the end of the metal line coming
Well the problem with the vac pump is either the drive is bad (probably
a very low failure rate), the rubber diaphragm in the pump is torn
(highest probability I would think), and the little one-way valves
inside the vac pump are goobered up. #3, you can get at them by taking
a cover plate
So now I'm thinking that my vacuum pump is failing. Do they normally
exhibit this sort of intermittent operation when that happens?
Certainly a sticky check valve will prevent it from
working properly. Time to open 'er up!
-- Jim
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- Original Message -
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 1:20 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cracked vacuum lines
Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
If things are assembled as intended, no auxiliary vacuum leak is
capable of impacting the brakes. There are restrictor orifices in
the supply line to prevent a catastrophic leak from leaking all that
much. But things get out of whack with age, people
So, if the main line from the pump to the brake booster is in good
shape (mine is relatively new), then I should be able to have the two
accessory tees open to the air and still have enough vacuum for brake
boost?
If the tees have their restrictors, or are built with the
ones I've seen in
Finally got around to figuring out why my '83 300D door locks don't work
-- one of the rigid plastic lines is cracked where it passes from the
body into the driver's door.
I'm now wondering if other cracked lines could be causing my
intermittent (but increasing) problems with brake boost and
My experience is that they tend to last forever - it's usually the servos or
the rubber connectors that fail.
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 1:20 PM, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Finally got around to figuring out why my '83 300D door locks don't work
-- one of the rigid plastic lines is
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 11:24 AM, andrew strasfogel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My experience is that they tend to last forever - it's usually the servos or
the rubber connectors that fail.
In the doors or otherwise away from the engine, maybe they last
forever. Under the hood the hard plastic
Great advice, Alex. I may just do that with my new 83 wagon.
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 2:33 PM, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 11:24 AM, andrew strasfogel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My experience is that they tend to last forever - it's usually the servos
or
Getting the hard lines on or off the plastic tees is death to one or the
other, in my experience the tee. I bodged up a brass tee from some
brass barbs and a threaded tee for the main one where the everything
else line goes off the main and to the brake booster. It sorta looks a
bit dodgy
The plastic becomes quite brittle anywhere it's exposed to heat, light, or
fuel/oil fumes. That means anything under the hood is easily broken, and most
interior lines are fine. Flexing at the door hinge will break them, though.
The replacement line is white only, not color coded, so don't
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 12:11 PM, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The replacement line is white only, not color coded, so don't get wild with
it.
Did M-B stop producing the color-striped hard line? I didn't know
that. Somewhere I have a list saved that Dave Meimann posted to the
old
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 12:11 PM, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
there are restrictions of various sizes in the different lines, and making a
monster tee instead will result
in things like poor shutoff or loss of booster vac on sitting, etc.
True. The fat little green and blue
I'm now wondering if other cracked lines could be causing my
intermittent (but increasing) problems with brake boost and engine
shut-off. The door circuit is disconnected currently, and plugged.
If things are assembled as intended, no auxiliary vacuum leak
is capable of impacting the brakes.
Worst problem is a cracked check valve, which is sometimes part of
that mess in the center. Causes low boost and loss of boost on
sitting, hard shifts, flaky ACC air flow, and assorted other ills.
Peter
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http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see
Egads! Is there a manual to diagnose all these devilish potential problem
spots under the hood in any sort of systematic way?
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 9:39 PM, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Worst problem is a cracked check valve, which is sometimes part of
that mess in the center.
Take each one off and suck or blow on it, see what it does. I hear
there is a young woman there in the DC area that could help, now what
was her name?
--R
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Egads! Is there a manual to diagnose all these devilish potential problem
spots under the hood in any sort of
Sure would be nice if you mentioned the year and model car you were
discussing!!
Marshall
William Tisdal wrote:
Thanks Harry and others responding. I have determined as of yesterday that
exhaust gases are in the reservoir. I am driving the car approximately
3,000 miles per month
Mitch Haley wrote:
Marshall Booth wrote:
Sure would be nice if you mentioned the year and model car you were
discussing!!
On Saturday, it was a '86 SDL.
Then it will be necessary to pull the head to determine if it's the head
or the head gasket.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Thanks Harry and others responding. I have determined as of yesterday that
exhaust gases are in the reservoir. I am driving the car approximately
3,000 miles per month and top off of antifreeze is
usually every 45 days sometimes longer. I removed the antifreeze tank
yesterday and discovered a
For replacement head shopping, check with our two sponsors, one for used
parts and one for new stuff. Both have links at the bottom of each post.
Kaleb and Rusty will lead you in the right direction. Rusty's number is
1-800-741-5252, don't know Kalebs.
There are head numbers to be sure of and
Overheating will crack any of them -- once the temp gauge gets into the
red zone, the thermal stressed break the casting.
However, the -14- heads crack in normal service. the -17- and -22-
heads are much more robust in normal service, and rarely crack unless
badly overheated.
The head
What are the symptoms of a cracked cylinder head? I think I messed up...
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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: [MBZ] Cracked Cylinder Head
What are the symptoms of a cracked cylinder head? I think I messed up...
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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Hi, Folks.
Rick, if it's the 190DT it may be the head gasket, that's what happened to mine
after being a little overheated. While the head was off the valves, guides, and
head surface were serviced, runs very well now.
If the 300CD, not sure what to tell you.
TTFN
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
190DT '87
Rick Knoble wrote:
What are the symptoms of a cracked cylinder head? I think I messed up...
A cracked cylinder head has the same symptoms as a blown head gasket.
Blown head gaskets are much more common on 602 engines than are cracked
heads!
With a cracked head, the most usual symptom with 603
Rick, if it is the 300D head, I know where a good one is. The engine
lost oil when the oil cooler line separated.
DWS
Rick Knoble wrote:
What are the symptoms of a cracked cylinder head? I think I messed up...
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
___
I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding
coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a
while.
I do have some oil in the expansion tank, too -- will check for cold
pressure tomorrow (this has not been a problem yet), but I suspect I'm
going to
These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s. ;)
On 2/3/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding
coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a
while.
I do have some oil in the expansion
Sorry to hear about your head problem, but I look forward to the education
we will get from your experience.
How did the cold pressure test turn out?
Thanks
Harry
On 2/4/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s. ;)
On 2/3/07,
Or any later ones -- I think the problem has been fixed in the updated
heads.
Mine was iffy when I bought it about 6 years ago, I'm not surprised,
just annoyed. It has 260,000 miles on it, on the original head, and I
don't know how well it was taken care of before I got it (I'm fourth or
Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?
Or any later ones -- I think the problem has been fixed in the updated
heads.
Mine was iffy when I bought it about 6 years ago, I'm not surprised,
just annoyed. It has 260,000 miles on it, on the original head, and I
don't know how well
andrew strasfogel wrote:
These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s. ;)
The cars from the fifties required 2-5X the maintenance that today's
cars do. On a W180 220S there were more than 30 grease fitting that had
to be greased every 3kmi (and that didn't include the grease
It's kind of hard to see with everything buttoned up, but when I
pulled the intake from my '87 it was immediately apparent that one
source of coolant loss was the brittle o-ring that makes the seal for
the fuel heater pipe at the head. Mine was visibly leaking with just
a hint of residual
I'll check that -- I'd very much like to avoid doing the head for a
bit, I have to put a roof on the house this summer, plus replace all
the windows
peter
There was evidence of steam cleaning/ pitting in cambers though.
Thanks
PEter
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 08 January 2007 03:59 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked OM 617.91 head
In a message dated 1/8/2007 12:55:09
Eventually I dismantled my 300GD engine ( OM617.91 ) and discovered a
crack on cyl #1 between the two valves. Engine has never overheated in
last 6 years I have had it and water usage is negligable ( 0.5 l / 2
km ). Is this problem commonplace ?
Peter
In a message dated 1/8/2007 12:55:09 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Eventually I dismantled my 300GD engine ( OM617.91 ) and discovered a
crack on cyl #1 between the two valves. Engine has never overheated in
last 6 years I have had it and water usage is
Peter Merle wrote:
Eventually I dismantled my 300GD engine ( OM617.91 ) and discovered a
crack on cyl #1 between the two valves. Engine has never overheated in
last 6 years I have had it and water usage is negligable ( 0.5 l / 2
km ). Is this problem commonplace ?
Peter
Head failures of
In a message dated 1/10/2006 7:07:06 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
As far as I know, the only engine in the 124 series that has a
reputation for cracking heads is the 6 cylinder 1987 model. It has the
603.96x engine.
From my archive:
Head model on 603 diesel
:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Hope it works well. that will be much safer than the sportline CE you had
me check out for her
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To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Hope it works well. that will be much safer than the sportline CE you
had
me check out for her
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On Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:37:42 -0800, redghost wrote
Seems that Alaska air can not keep up either. Been tossing award
winning show dogs upside down into cargo holds, losing cabin
pressure and creasing the skin of their planes.
They've been having problems ever since they fired all their ground
-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of redghost
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Seems that Alaska air can not keep up either. Been tossing award
winning show dogs upside down
to reinstate it however she just another year's
apartment lease - Timing is everything!
Dennis
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of redghost
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head
On 1/10/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Man oh, man. Sure wish I had my act together and/or a deal like that
would come up in another two months, or so. I still think that car
could be a potential investment, assuming you've got some sweat equity
to apply. Those cars have achieved
Of Zeitgeist
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 10:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Hey Dennis, go ahead and buy it. I'll gladly take it off your hands
in the event that it doesn't suit your purposes--really, I mean it.
I'm your personal insurance
$1895
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 4:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
how much were they wanting for it?
Woodlandtaylors wrote
h, where was it located again?
Woodlandtaylors wrote:
$1895
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 4:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124
Man oh, man. Sure wish I had my act together and/or a deal like that
would come up in another two months, or so. I still think that car
could be a potential investment, assuming you've got some sweat equity
to apply. Those cars have achieved near mythic status in this neck o'
the woods, where
Portland Oregon
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 5:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
h, where was it located again
: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 5:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Man oh, man. Sure wish I had my act together and/or a deal like that
would come up in another two months, or so.
Thanks for the report.
Casey
--
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darn
Woodlandtaylors wrote:
Portland Oregon
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 5:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
h, where
Yes, you do have a number of projects, don't you? Do you still have
that Blue 123 we spoke about a while ago?
On 1/10/06, Woodlandtaylors [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If I had not other projects I may have purchase it, but since my daughter
wanted it; it throw a different light on the matter -
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 4:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
how much were they wanting for it?
Woodlandtaylors wrote:
Casey,
The wagon was a project. The engine was a oily mess
My 90's 300TDt had a plugged vacuum/pressure relief valve. Lines
clear, pressure in, no pressure out.
Replace it on the roadside an hour after purchase by swapping it
with the valve which was servicing the EGR. Same part, just different
hookup of lines and vent cap.
Risk at the time, was
: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 6:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Yes, you do have a number of projects, don't you? Do you still have
that Blue 123 we spoke about a while ago?
--
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Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
how much were they wanting for it?
Woodlandtaylors wrote:
Casey,
The wagon was a project. The engine was a oily mess, injector pump
leaking,
water pump leaking, air conditioner inoperative, vacuum system problems
how many cars do you have???
Woodlandtaylors wrote:
Casey,
Have been going to take the engine and trans out of it (Texas blue 1985
sedan) and drop them into the gold sedan, have not got around to it. Never
put the spare engine in the 300SD either, probably just part it out. This
summer I'll
-
nothing like spare time.
Dennis T
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Zeitgeist
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 6:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Yes, you do have a number of projects, don't
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Man! You sound like you have what I have! (except that your cars probably
don't get rusty as bad)
--
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-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 6:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
As far as I know, the only engine in the 124 series that has a
reputation
Can someone provide me a link that discusses the cylinder head cracking
issue as it relates to the casting # and exactly where to view the casting
marks?
Dennis T
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As far as I know, the only engine in the 124 series that has a
reputation for cracking heads is the 6 cylinder 1987 model. It has the
603.96x engine.
From my archive:
Head model on 603 diesel engines:
For the head question, look at the casting number near #2/#3 cylinder.
Should be 603-016-xx-20
I had a factory 15 on a 1986 300SDL non TO model but have not heard
of any others since.
On 1/10/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As far as I know, the only engine in the 124 series that has a
reputation for cracking heads is the 6 cylinder 1987 model. It has the
603.96x engine.
From my
: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
As far as I know, the only engine in the 124 series that has a
reputation for cracking heads is the 6 cylinder 1987 model. It has the
603.96x engine.
From my archive:
Head model on 603 diesel engines:
For the head question, look at the casting number near #2
WOW, thats some daughter you got there.
Woodlandtaylors wrote:
Don,
Thanks, the 1987 Wagon that was on Craiglist in Portland Oregon for $1895
the other day is available again. The purchaser reports he changed the glow
plugs and it starts instantly now. He purchased it for his girlfriend to
for her real estate business but she does not like it. Hates diesel
and says
it does not accelerate satisfactory for her and would rather have a
MLxxx.
'Hates diesel'? Yeah, maybe. I'm guessing there's some of my
wife's 'loathes station wagons' hidden in there as well. My wife,
at least, is
Hey Dennis, go ahead and buy it. I'll gladly take it off your hands
in the event that it doesn't suit your purposes--really, I mean it.
I'm your personal insurance policy.
On 1/10/06, Woodlandtaylors [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don,
Thanks, the 1987 Wagon that was on Craiglist in Portland
Hi Dennis,
Go to this link, skip down to #16:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 21:12:38 -0800
From: Woodlandtaylors [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 11:52:08 -0600
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
WOW, thats some daughter you got
On Tue, Jan 10, 2006 at 12:37:41PM -0700, Dave M. wrote:
Yeah, wow, I'll second that. Don't suppose she's single, eh? ;-)
Seriously though, the 'low power' issue is probably either an ALDA
adjustment, or a plugged line between the intake and ALDA. When
running properly, this is not a slow
: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
WOW, thats some daughter you got there.
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:58 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
for her real estate business but she does not like it. Hates diesel
and says
it does not accelerate satisfactory for her and would rather have a
MLxxx.
'Hates diesel'? Yeah, maybe. I'm guessing there's
Of Woodlandtaylors
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 6:15 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Kaleb,
It's amazing how different they are, her sister has trouble filling a
vehicles fuel tank.
Dennis T
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED
Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked diesel head on 124 series
Hey Dennis, go ahead and buy it. I'll gladly take it off your hands
in the event that it doesn't suit your purposes--really, I mean it.
I'm your personal insurance policy.
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked
Peter Frederick wrote:
If it's any consolation, Volvo diesel heads do exactly the same thing,
although since they have smaller valves, you can usually get them
welded and they stay fixed.
As far as I've been able to find out, *all* VW diesel heads (of which
the Volvo diesel is an example)
That's been my experience (dozens), but none of them ever allowed
coolant to migrate into the combustion chamber--not one.
On 11/8/05, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As far as I've been able to find out, *all* VW diesel heads (of which
the Volvo diesel is an example) crack. It's just
Zeitgeist wrote:
That's been my experience (dozens), but none of them ever allowed
coolant to migrate into the combustion chamber--not one.
I had one that did, but it had been kissed by the pistons after someone
put on too thin a head gasket. Maybe overheated, too, for all I know.
It had wide
On Mon, Nov 07, 2005 at 05:54:26PM -0600, Rich Thomas wrote:
300D to see a 74 240D with a stick parked behind it - with a for sale
Why did it have a stick parked behind it? Was Hillary in town?
Oh good. I didn't miss the biannual 'eats, shoots, and leaves' discussion.
K
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
Well, I just got back from dropping the car off at my indy. Spoke to
the tech who had personally done the head job on it a few months ago.
He remembered doing the job, but not how exactly the head was
cracked---said he does too many to keep them all straight.
issues, I'd suspect
the turbo for the oil consumption. I'd sure want to rule out
everything before yanking the head again... ugh...
:(
-Dave M.
--
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 14:14:07 -0800
From: Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked #17 head!? (was: Portland
On Mon, Nov 07, 2005 at 06:02:51PM -0700, Dave M. wrote:
Isn't this the DeGroff-massaged head? (Or amI confused with someone
else on that?) I can't imagine it having issues with the valve seals
or guides. How bizarre! Don't sweat the higher temps - my #22 head
also runs at 90-95C all the time,
The cracks between the valves are the problem. It will eventually
extend into the cooling passage and leak
If it's any consolation, Volvo diesel heads do exactly the same thing,
although since they have smaller valves, you can usually get them
welded and they stay fixed.
The later heads
In a message dated 11/7/2005 3:14:41 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I am curious as well. I have quite a few miles on the redone #17 head on
my 87 300D, and I have this nagging feeling it's going to need to come
back off. Oil consumption went WAY up, and it fits
Dave M. wrote:
Before condemning the #17+ heads, you need to know the details behind
the failure (re: that SDL with a bunch of cracks in a '17.) Blowing a
radiator hose and driving for an hour with the temp in the red and no
coolant in the system will likely crack a #22 head also.
I'm not sure
Good point, Dave. For what it's worth, though, my #17 that blew
definitely did so on its own, so to speak---not because of
overheating. The car overheated routinely after the head cracked, but
not before, and once the head was replaced it ran perfectly
again---i.e. the cooling system was NOT the
PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 12:07 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked #17 head!? (was: Portland wagon)
Good point, Dave. For what it's worth, though, my #17 that blew
definitely did so on its own, so to speak
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
Good point, Dave. For what it's worth, though, my #17 that blew
definitely did so on its own, so to speak---not because of
overheating. The car overheated routinely after the head cracked, but
not before, and once the head was replaced it ran perfectly
again---i.e. the
On 11/5/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Wow - that's one of the first, if not THE first, cracked #17 head that
I've heard of. Could you give us any more details? How it happened,
where the crack was (beteween valves or valve to prechamber), etc?
Good question where the crack was. I
Hmmm. I think I'll keep my old #14 head that I swapped out for my current
used #17 head. If the #17 starts behaving like it's kaput, I'll go get
some of that aluminum welding/brazing rod and attempt a repair. The dudes
at the company that sells the stuff figured it would be good for 1200
degrees F
Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked #17 head!? (was: Portland wagon)
On 11/5/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Wow - that's one of the first, if not THE first, cracked #17 head that
I've heard of. Could you give us any more details? How it happened,
where the crack
On Sat, Nov 05, 2005 at 07:52:02PM -0700, Dave M. wrote:
Wow - that's one of the first, if not THE first, cracked #17 head that
I've heard of. Could you give us any more details? How it happened,
where the crack was (beteween valves or valve to prechamber), etc?
I am curious as well. I have
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