My trunk does not pop open, but sometimes I notice the handle is popped out
when it should not be. Open the trunk and close again and it retracts back
up.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:42 PM
Subject: [MBZ] working on the w140
Early this summer we replaced the distributor caps, rotors, wires,
plugs etc. on the w140. Occasionally it would have a slight miss,
that they felt was
perhaps due to the EGR valve which wouldn't hold a vacuum. Oddly the
dealer said this part wasn't available anymore. A week back I ordered
one from Rusty (thanks)
plus the gasket, I suspect the parts guy mistyped the part number
since not only was it available the price he quote me was complete
fiction.
That arrived and I replaced it today. The service manual makes the
job sound easy, the EGR is located on front of the top of the engine
block, however
the hard U shaped A/C tube is mounted right in front of it and it
seems you need a very small diameter hex socket/extension in order to
get between the tube and the rim
of the EGR to tighten the forward screw/bolt (real pain given it's
sitting right here...)
The old EGR actually would open but leak like crazy, the vacuum setup
being a gas engine has a draw from the intake manifold via a nipple
screwed into the manfold right
beside the EGR, then off to a generic vent valve the same as the ones
you find for the overpressure hose on the ALDA. According to the
manual the EGR operates
according to the engine maps when the temp is 49C and the engine
RPM 3800, to introduce exhaust into the intake manifold to reduce
oxygen to reduce combustion temps to reduce NxO . I guess I see how
it affects any misfires, normally when in use it it would draw a bit
of air then hold the vacuum, so perhaps continuous drawing air had
side-effects.
After this I decided to tackle why the trunk closes funny or doesn't
close. Actually it would pop open even when locked!
After reviewing the docs it seems there is adjustments to mate the
lid eye-latch to the vacuum assembly, then the lock assembly mates to
the latch. Once you mate the dual parts together you need to adjust
both the eye-latch on the lid which moves in 4 directions and the
lock assembly latch on the lower frame which moves up/down, if you
transverse align the lower latch the manual says the lock mech will
malfuction. I guess that means pop open unexpectedly.
After removing the cover plate I discover in fact one bolt holding
the lower latch assembly is tight, the other is just hanging there.
Oh well of course it's funky since it's allowing the latch to move
transversally thus malfunctioning.
Oddly it seems you need a small adult to climb into the trunk to
adjust everything since everything is visible and accessible from in
there. Alas one was not handy I resorted to using a video camera
to record how everything mated, and spent a good hour attempting to
get everything alighted and the height correct. 100% better, still I
think I need to compare it to another w140 to understand if just
closing the trunk slowly by hand should make the eye-latch activate
and close things. You have to thunk it close, but now it closes each
time, before it would bounce at least 75%of the time, given it was
flexing the lower assembly that isn't unexpected, well and pop open
unexpectedly.
Tomorrow if the sun is still co-operating I'm going to replace both
rear seatbelt assemblies since the weak comfort spring takeup is
faulty in both seats.
John
1983 300TDt 384k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt 211k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 200k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
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