Hey guys.
Here's a link to when Chryslers ruled. With the Letter
Series 300's... Are these the land yachts
http://www.chrysler300site.com/cgibin/history.cgi?1964
take care,
Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Mar 27, 2006, at 4:48 PM, John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 26, 2006, at 1:39
On Mar 26, 2006, at 2:45 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
Just how much oil are you using? How many qt in how many miles?
Marshall
Its an absurd amount,IIRC 1 qt/250-300mi.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
- Original Message -
From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Collectable Convertibles [was Re: /8]
On Mar 26, 2006, at 1:39 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
I had a '78 (or was it '76?)
Which guys?
Remember, there are original Bosch, and then there's the aftermarket
from TYC. NOT the same quality!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
Johnny B typed:
Just came from the Dentist and having 3 broken teeth
extracted.
Bar fight?
Bob Rentfro
77 300D 151K
Litchfield Park, AZ
I'm surprised the body kit does not give it extra speed. All the ricers
around here seem to add about 40mph from them. Maybe because it is not
yellow?
--R
Rick Knoble wrote:
On Mar 26, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Dave M. wrote:
Joe Knight just picked up a set for his E-code lights and
reported that he was definitely impressed with the difference from
stock bulbs.
:-)
-Dave M.
How's ole Joe these days?
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
There was a discussion of lighting a few days ago. I know I am late to the
game. Has anyone ever ordered from these guys? Their prices look good for
Euro headlights, but there is not much info about what you get and what you
need.
www.importvision.com
www.importvision.com
At 06:26 PM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
Which guys?
Remember, there are original Bosch, and then there's the aftermarket
from TYC. NOT the same quality!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list
What was the name brand of the alignment equipment the list recommended the
shop must have to do a proper alignment? Does anyone know of a shop in the
Muskegon Michigan area that could?
Thanks,
Mike
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Mar 28 01:38:33 2006
Received: from sccrmhc14.comcast.net
R A Bennell wrote:
How about any color you want so long as the interior is grey? Seems to be
that way right now. I don't really mind
the grey interior in my truck but it would look alright in blue or tan as the
truck is blue.
I don't like gray interiors. They seem to show dirt and scuffs
I wonder which car from that article will sell for the most? The
Mercedes, the Oldsmobile, or the Datsun?
Bill Aston wrote:
and the rear axle ratio of 2.47:1 gives the car lots of low RPM acceleration.
Which reminds me, a 3.07:1 rear end from a 4.5L 107 or 116 is a direct
bolt-in for a non-ABS 380SL and will really wake up the car without
unduly affecting drivability. Just have to
Hate to burst your bubble, but that translates to moss green.
Or maybe you knew that already and were being droll
On 3/27/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Moose green!
834
moosgrün
That would be a good color for a 220 D
As with the Heckflossen colors, not all colors were
Will a coupe hood fit onto a sedan and vice versa? I found a cheap 1979
300CD with hood and windshield damage that's in otherwise nice condition,
and I know of several W123 sedan hoods that can be had for $40 or so plus
painting to match. I'm not sure if coupe windshields are the same as
If I had to guess, I would say yes, since the fenders, engine and
front end are all interchangeable.
On 3/27/06, kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Will a coupe hood fit onto a sedan and vice versa? I found a cheap 1979
300CD with hood and windshield damage that's in otherwise nice
an open vacuum line. It's black and
As built, the color coding is very meaningful. Black lines are
vents.
-- Jim
Our dealer had in an infamous w140 350SDL, they told me the turbo was
cracked and when
hot and only when really hot it would leak oil into the intake and
produce *huge* clouds of
blue smoke.
For the right price I'd buy one of those. I have a spare 603
turbo from the wagon. One of the few
Just how much oil are you using? How many qt in how many miles?
Its an absurd amount,IIRC 1 qt/250-300mi.
Our 'collectible convertible', the 250C hardtop convertible, burned
a truly heinous amount of oil on its one and only road trip, all four
quarts I brought along in about 200 miles.
I admire your persistence and patience. I have projects laying around
from
*gasp* twenty plus years that need attention. Where do you find the
time and
motivation for such things? Gotta admit I like your writing style too.
Been out of work since last May!
-- Jim
Can't keep 3 cars! This 240D is now $500. It's in central MA, runs well,
doesn't like cold weather. Has a little rust, otherwise good body, dark
blue, 1982 with 160K miles.
[EMAIL PROTECTED],com
For a few weeks now, my 85 makes a clunk in the rear end. Like if you
are cruising down the road at a steady speed, and apply throttle, or let
off throttle, you get a clunk from slop somewhere. What is most likely
worn out, diff mount? Flex disks? Something else?
--
Kaleb C.
yea, how about it?
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Has anyone else wondered how long or what's the rest of THIS story when
Marshall says something like this?? I have, and wish he'd fill us in..
~
~DO NOT ASK how long I owned a 123 wagon before I discovered that!
~
~Marshall
~--
--
Kaleb C.
how MANY pistons did HE melt?
andrew strasfogel wrote:
He burned out 2,477 fuses and 335 rear hatch light bulbs before HIS inner
light bulb illuminated!
On 3/27/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has anyone else wondered how long or what's the rest of THIS story
when Marshall says
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
For a few weeks now, my 85 makes a clunk in the rear end. Like if you
are cruising down the road at a steady speed, and apply throttle, or let
off throttle, you get a clunk from slop somewhere. What is most likely
worn out, diff mount? Flex disks? Something else?
yea, my diff could be worn too I suppose, will probably replace the
mount first though. Car has around 280k btw.
John Ervine wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
For a few weeks now, my 85 makes a clunk in the rear end. Like if you
are cruising down the road at a steady speed, and apply
Its a goner! I'll give you $50, delivered, for what's left of it. Hey, LT
Don and I can pool our resources and up the ante to $100!
(check the flex disks)
At 09:11 PM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
For a few weeks now, my 85 makes a clunk in the rear end. Like if you
are cruising down the road at
You guess!
At 08:25 PM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
Hate to burst your bubble, but that translates to moss green.
Or maybe you knew that already and were being droll
On 3/27/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Moose green!
834
moosgrün
That would be a good color for a 220 D
As with
yea, I will have to think about that one :)
Loren Faeth wrote:
Its a goner! I'll give you $50, delivered, for what's left of it. Hey, LT
Don and I can pool our resources and up the ante to $100!
(check the flex disks)
At 09:11 PM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
For a few weeks now, my 85 makes a
I had the same sound in my 123 . MB Dealers in the Boston area
wanted $2,000.00 but expect the bill to be about 3 to 4 hundred more ...
Had the work done in Canada for $1,200.00 and billed six hours to do the
job . replaced the differential gears, mount, and all seals .
sounds
Agreed!! I still think a 380 coupe (SEC or SLC) is the right
recipient for a 603. Can't hardly believe that I'm installing the 117
back into the SLC. A 603 candidate didn't show up in time :^(
I'm thinking real hard about using the engine I pulled out to
fabricate the needed parts for a 617
Yea - I konw about the time and elbow grease (though I did cheat and
use a wire brush in an old drill)!
On 3/27/06, John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK Don wrote:
I haven't updated the page yet (no new photos yet), but your engine
does look better than mine!
On most cars you can modify the bulb-out module (N7 on a W124) to
ignore the headlights, and still function for all the *other* bulbs.
It's pretty obvious when you lose a headlight anyway. I have my module
modified so it works normally with my headlight relays. On the W124 it
normally monitors low
On 3/27/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jeff Zedic wrote:
Ok, I just checked my 124 manual and I don't see any mention of an SST.
(special service tool)
All you need out of the ordinary is a longish bar to use as a lever to
tension the belt tensioning mechanism.
The
On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 16:48:44 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I went to wire the unused rear fog lights in my '82 240D/3.0 as extra
brake lights and found that there are no sockets there.
Does anyone have a couple of extra brake light sockets for a W123?
You should be able to find what you
On Mar 27, 2006, at 9:23 AM, Dave Wakin wrote:
Not sure what else to check - maybe the PS Filter? I figured I
would change
that and the fluid and go from there, but I am not sure I am
looking at the
right peice in the puzzle.
Thanks in advance,
Dave Wakin
Changing the fluid and filter
On Mar 27, 2006, at 7:27 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:
Bar fight?
Bob Rentfro
77 300D 151K
Litchfield Park, AZ
No. Its a long story. I was put in the hospital by 5 idiots in a
case of mistaken identity, many years ago. That's all I care to
discuss about the incident.
Johnny B.
I Mac
Thanks Jim.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original
Guys and Gals,
I have a rear hatch for a 300TD available for pick up. It is primed,
no rust, with window and seal. I got it from Dan Steadman some time
ago to use on my car, but never got around to doing it, so the car left
w/Chris Jude and the rear hatch is taking up space in my garage.
It is
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 1:53 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices
** ** **
Richard Hattaway wrote:
Guys and Gals,
I have a rear hatch for a 300TD available for pick up. It is primed,
no rust, with window and seal. I got it from Dan Steadman some time
ago to use on my car, but never got around to doing it, so the car left
w/Chris Jude and the rear hatch is taking up
As long as the glass is not installed in it all you do is slap a lable
on it and have DHL/fedex come and pick it up.
Richard Hattaway wrote:
Guys and Gals,
I have a rear hatch for a 300TD available for pick up. It is primed,
no rust, with window and seal. I got it from Dan Steadman some
As long as the glass is not installed in it all you do is slap a lable
on it and have DHL/fedex come and pick it up.
UPS too! (I work for UPS)
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
they are too expensive usually. tell them to lower their prices.
Rick Knoble wrote:
As long as the glass is not installed in it all you do is slap a lable
on it and have DHL/fedex come and pick it up.
UPS too! (I work for UPS)
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
Measured vacuum at pump would not pull 5 INCHES at idle. Revving the car a
bunch it would almost get to 15 inches (0.5 Bar). RR-ed vacuum pump now has
15 - 16 inches at idle just a bit after being started.
Booboo-ed on vacuum line from brake booster to vacuum pump, snapped off one
of the
Yes.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kevin kraly
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 9:32 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] W123 hood/windshield interchangeability
Will a coupe hood fit onto a sedan and vice versa? I found a cheap
My 300SD has about 280k as well, and in spite of many folks
assertions that the diffs almost never wear out, mine is. Howls and
clunks something fierce. Just had the trans fluid flushed and changed
and now that the shifts are much firmer, it clunks every shift,
unless you use lots of throttle. My
Booboo-ed on vacuum line from brake booster to vacuum pump, snapped
off one
of the black vacuum taps. ( it is the one with a single line, not the
one
with the 4-way connector. ). First I tried teeing it into the one with
the 4
way connector - ps! That did not work. I don't know what this
Sorry, it is for a 123.
Guess there are other 300TD's out there, aren't there...
Richard
--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Richard Hattaway wrote:
Guys and Gals,
I have a rear hatch for a 300TD available for pick up. It is
primed,
no rust, with window and seal. I got it
After getting a quote of $1800 for head gasket replacement, my mechanic friend
Charlie (240D (2)) decided we're gonna do it ourselves. I'm hoping braingears
or steaky has the job. Will keep y'all posted on our progress. REALLY looking
forward to the head test to see if it's cracked. Will
Good for you! good luck. just don't drop anything down the chain box,
although that is not as critical on a 60x as in the older 61X and earlier
engines
At 10:29 AM 3/28/2006, you wrote:
After getting a quote of $1800 for head gasket replacement, my
mechanic friend Charlie (240D (2))
Hi Chris,
WOW! $1800 is an increase from when I last got a estimate for my 78
240D - back in 93 I believe, I was told $1200 which prompted me to do it
myself like you will be doing! I pulled it and had a MB experienced machine
shop do the actual valve job. It turned out great! This
On my '83 300D:
In cold weather, engine dies down and stops very slowly when key is removed.
In warm weather, engine stops normally. If I rapidly turn th key several
times, vacuum begins to build and engine stops quicker. Also, when this
happens in cold weather, entire vacuum system loses
On 3/27/06 10:31 AM, tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm actually headed out there right now and I've been meaning to give
you a call, too. Wednesday or Thursday would be good days to stop by.
I'll be (hopefully) finishing up the brakes on the '54 220 Cab A today
or tomorrow, and then
archer wrote:
On my '83 300D:
In cold weather, engine dies down and stops very slowly when key is removed.
In warm weather, engine stops normally. If I rapidly turn th key several
times, vacuum begins to build and engine stops quicker. Also, when this
happens in cold weather, entire vacuum
Thanks! Good info! I know that on my '68 Dodge, I can start the engine from
the firewall by arcing two terminals on a box on the driver side firewall.
This must be the same as what you're describing, only it sounds like on the
Mercedes, I'd have to do it at the starter itself.
I'd also have to
Dan wrote:
My 300SD has about 280k as well, and in spite of many folks
assertions that the diffs almost never wear out, mine is. Howls and
clunks something fierce. Eventually, I'll try and find
a good used diff to swap in.
Jim wrote:
That is what I did, because I lacked the time to try
Ah! yes, its up on the cluster. Surprising the things that I forget. Maybe
it's all this college-knowledge I'm trying to cram into my brain. Actually
it's that I'm keeping so busy with other things that I haven't really
gotten to know my new 240D yet.
I'll try turning the dimmer and hoping. Is
I'll try turning the dimmer and hoping. Is removing it a bear?
Two screws, once you have the cluster out. And that's not
usually too hard either.
-- Jim
Well, my brother's a mechanic. He offered to do that, and I said that
Marshall had said NOT to attempt it, that it was TOO DIFFICULT. My
brother repeated his offer, saying that when he worked at a
transmission shop, his nickname was the proctologist, as he could
make any rear end he worked on,
This will be tough.my odometer is now working 50% of the timegr
love an old car. Always something new to keep you on your toes.
Luther
On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:36 , Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
report back
Luther Gulseth wrote:
BUT, after sealing the valve cover
On Mar 28, 2006, at 9:54 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
As long as the glass is not installed in it all you do is slap a lable
on it and have DHL/fedex come and pick it up.
That's the lazy man's way. It would get some damage for sure that
way and it is doubtful that freight insurance would
Hi Rusty -
Does my W124 '91 300D 2.5T use a PS Filter? Couldn't find one on the
website/online catalog.
Thanks!
BTW, I used the link on your website to send this note and it bounced.
Thought you'd want to know -
I tried to use the link on the buyeuroparts home page - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
ditto what Marshall said ...and... IMO, the plastic connections and rubber
joints in the engine compartment are the ones most likely to cause a
problem. They see more vibration, are exposed to much more heat and are
sometimes knocked out of place during an oil filter change. As Marshalls
sorry about my note to Rusty going to the MB list incorrectly -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
The diaphragm inside the vac shutoff valve may also be the villian as
well
as the 2 lines going to the ignition switch.
The valve (at the key switch) doesn't really have a diaphragm. It
does have a small O-ring inside, though. The shutoff actuator (at
the IP) does have a diaphragm. They
Hi all!
So I've got an 82 300td and I've put in about zero
maintence in the two years I have had it. Just bought
it and drove it off the lot.
Since then, i've noticed that it has progressively
gotten louder. Some 300t's I see go down the road
just purrr. Mine sounds like an old panzer
They tend to beat them up less if they are unwrapped. There is some
twisted psychology at play there, but i don't know what. The current
thinking is to just put a label on it and send it. That is not just
Kaleb's idea. If it is wrapped, they make sure they run over it first,
then spear it
Yeah, I used to work for Fedex Home Delivery(in the same terminal as the
Ground guys). If I got something in the open(i.e. unpackaged), I took
better care of it, as it would be easier to damage and more obvious if
it was damaged. Most everything was in boxes though. Those things get
tossed
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/05-210.pdf
Only adjust it with the engine ABSOLUTELY cold (not run for 6-8 hours).
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi,
I've seen some reference to some special wrenches that
make the job MUCH eaiser. My question to the group...
Are there any other gotcha's, quirks, or tricks
that I should know about up front?
That's the big one. But it can be done without these
bent 14mm wrenches, or so I'm told. Having
Personally, I'd opt for the Audi TT. Late model SLs don't seem all
that sporty to me--neither Sport nor Leicht. The TT just has fun
written all over it.
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon
Wow, I just read through the PDF that Marchel sent out
and it very much looks like the special wrenchs and
valve collar holder will be in order.
Whewww! I love the list. I could have gotten into
this and been totaly ill-prepared and had it become a
project rather then simple maintenence...!!!
That's the lazy man's way. It would get some damage for sure that
way and it is doubtful that freight insurance would cover poorly
packed items.
Believe it or not, open bulk or irreg items (as they are referred to) get
treated pretty well if they are open and NOT boxed. I won a bladder tank
and it very much looks like the special wrenchs and
valve collar holder will be in order.
Wrenches yes (although I have done it with regular wrenches), valve collar
holder, probably not.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
hue wong wrote:
Since then, i've noticed that it has progressively
gotten louder. Some 300t's I see go down the road
just purrr. Mine sounds like an old panzer clanking
along.
A valve adjustment is a good idea, but don't overlook something external
rattling around. My 300D Turbo once
If the valve wants to spin (rarely), just slide a large flat blade screwdriver
down and stop it from spinning. Plain and simple.
Luther
~ and it very much looks like the special wrenchs and
~ valve collar holder will be in order.
~
~Wrenches yes (although I have done it with regular wrenches),
Many thanks to Marshall, Larry T, and Jim Cathey. I'll report back.
Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum loss in cold
I would gladly do that if someone is interested. I just cannot go to
the issues of taking it anywere, boxing it, worrying about it getting
beat up, etc. If someone wants to handle it like Rick describes, I am
all for it, Send me a label and I will send directions to the front
porch (garage
More progress.
-- Jim
March 27, 2006
Finally, moving on. I glued the loose passenger map pocket to the
door skin. Inelegant, but should work. I was careful so that it can
be removed fairly cleanly if the pocket should ever get replaced.
...On a freeway test drive today the cruise worked
80 matches
Mail list logo
