Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-07 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 08:17:31 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A couple years ago Dad and I setup a bottle jack pushing down on a
 piston (with a chain around the block so it could push down). I think
 this would be more effective with 4 jacks.

Unless you're thinking of two jacks per cylinder, you only need two jacks.
On a four-cylinder, two pistons go up when the other two go down.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-07 Thread Curt Raymond
Uhh, 4 jacks, 2 going down and 2 going up...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 21:56:52 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 08:17:31 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A couple years ago Dad and I setup a bottle jack pushing down on a
 piston (with a chain around the block so it could push down). I think
 this would be more effective with 4 jacks.

Unless you're thinking of two jacks per cylinder, you only need two 
jacks.
On a four-cylinder, two pistons go up when the other two go down.


Craig



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Andrew - Have to add my bit - I drive my 1981 300SD at 80 MPH frequently on
I95 [slower is often dangerous].   It is rock solid and responsive.  I would
rather drive it that way than my wife's Infinity, which she [unfortunately]
usually drives 10 - 15 MPH faster [never a ticket, she has some odd internal
radar detector that has never failed]  The Infinity will definitely handle
those speeds easily, and could certainly out run my SD, but we both think
the SD rides better.  
Guess you suspected to get a bit of dander up from this list with that
comparison, though.
BillR
Jacksonville  FL
1981 300SD  'EM'  272k miles 
 
 


Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 17:50:11 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm sort of half planning this summer to run a bead of weld across each
 one and whack it with a chisel so they shatter. The tractor sat for 40
 years after all...

Why would you want to do that instead of try to get it to run again? Jim
Cathey's generator experience should show you the possibilities.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Mitch Haley
Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 I have a '28 Farmall Regular which has steel pistons. If I can ever get the 
 dammed
 things out I'll take a picture.

Do you remember the way Jim Cathey removed the pistons from that rusty Hercules
generator?



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Jim Cathey
I have a '28 Farmall Regular which has steel pistons. If I can ever 
get the dammed things out I'll take a picture.


Do you remember the way Jim Cathey removed the pistons from that rusty 
Hercules generator?


But they were aluminum pistons, and were untouched by the corrosion.
So I was ahead by half right there.  Electrolysis would be an easy
thing to try first, it's nearly free and only takes a little bit of
time and electricity.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Curt Raymond
I intend to get it to run again, it was my great-grandfathers...
  However I intend to get it to run again with new pistons. These have sat in 
the exact same place for something like 40 years. I expect thats longer than 
Jim's generator has existed... I've tried better living through chemistry and 
time for nearly 5 years now. I've used used motor oil, marvel oil, PB Blaster, 
gun scrubber, Coca Cola, kerosene and lately WD-40 because its cheap in gallon 
jugs. Nothing has enabled the pistons to move one little bit.
  The next two attempts involve getting an oxy acetalyne torch and/or putting 
diesel in the cylinders and setting it on fire. If heat doesn't help I'll weld 
(to harden) the pistons and break 'em. Replacement pistons are well over $100 
apiece but I'd like to rebuild the engine during my lifetime...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 19:11:20 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 17:50:11 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm sort of half planning this summer to run a bead of weld across 
each
 one and whack it with a chisel so they shatter. The tractor sat for 
40
 years after all...

Why would you want to do that instead of try to get it to run again? 
Jim
Cathey's generator experience should show you the possibilities.


Craig



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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 07:53:15 -0800 (PST)
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I just remembered you have a crane to help move the block around with too. I 
have no idea how heavy the block is on the tractor but it was everything 3 of 
us could handle to take the head off. That bugger must weigh 200# by itself... 
4 cylinder cast iron engine. 12hp IIRC.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 19:36:07 -0800
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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 I have a '28 Farmall Regular which has steel pistons. If I can ever 
 get the dammed things out I'll take a picture.

 Do you remember the way Jim Cathey removed the pistons from that 
rusty 
 Hercules generator?

But they were aluminum pistons, and were untouched by the corrosion.
So I was ahead by half right there.  Electrolysis would be an easy
thing to try first, it's nearly free and only takes a little bit of
time and electricity.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Bob Rentfro
I'm getting in on this thread way late, but you think this might work? I 
have no idea...


http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm


Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?



I intend to get it to run again, it was my great-grandfathers...
 However I intend to get it to run again with new pistons. These have sat 
in the exact same place for something like 40 years. I expect thats longer 
than Jim's generator has existed... I've tried better living through 
chemistry and time for nearly 5 years now. I've used used motor oil, 
marvel oil, PB Blaster, gun scrubber, Coca Cola, kerosene and lately WD-40 
because its cheap in gallon jugs. Nothing has enabled the pistons to move 
one little bit.
 The next two attempts involve getting an oxy acetalyne torch and/or 
putting diesel in the cylinders and setting it on fire. If heat doesn't 
help I'll weld (to harden) the pistons and break 'em. Replacement pistons 
are well over $100 apiece but I'd like to rebuild the engine during my 
lifetime...


 -Curt

 Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 19:11:20 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 17:50:11 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I'm sort of half planning this summer to run a bead of weld across

each

one and whack it with a chisel so they shatter. The tractor sat for

40

years after all...


Why would you want to do that instead of try to get it to run again?
Jim
Cathey's generator experience should show you the possibilities.


Craig



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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Curt Raymond
Actually I have and its one reason I've held off on the rr on the head. It is 
a good way to break rods though so I'm thinking to try heat first.
  Also thinking the next time a tool show comes to town I'll pick up 3 more 5 
ton bottle jacks, they're handy to have around anyway. A couple years ago Dad 
and I setup a bottle jack pushing down on a piston (with a chain around the 
block so it could push down). I think this would be more effective with 4 
jacks. Plus heat, plus more magic stuff in the cylinders. Its gonna be a group 
effort.
   
  The worst thing is that the tractor is at my parents house in Maine, thats 
180 odd miles from where I live. I really need to take a week off from work and 
just set my mind to the task.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 09:54:02 -0600
From: Potter, Tom  E [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Have you tried injecting grease into the cylinder through the spark 
plug
hole using a high-pressure grease gun (The air-driven ones put out 
about
10,000 psig pressure.) I have heard (and seen pictures) of this method
used on old engines. You will have to make an adapter to get the zerk
fitting/spark plug connection. 

Tom Potter



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NO  thats is the 750il  AND yeah they are a  nightmare
 i am mulling over a 740  V8 
 collins 
 phila 
1985 500 sec  
 
In a message dated 3/6/2006 10:58:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Isn't  that the 12cyl maintenance and repair nightmare?

Actually I'll admit I was gazing upon a BMW today. Musta been a quite new 
one,  cherry red, pretty lady driving it. Then I pressed on the go pedal and 
took 
 off (190D remember). Why do people have performance cars and drive like  
weenies?

-Curt






Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Jim Cathey
  However I intend to get it to run again with new pistons. These have 
sat in the exact same place for something like 40 years. I expect 
thats longer than Jim's generator has existed...


The Kohler is about 1965 vintage.  So there!

 I've tried better living through chemistry and time for nearly 5 
years now. I've used used motor oil, marvel oil, PB Blaster, gun 
scrubber, Coca Cola, kerosene and lately WD-40 because its cheap in 
gallon jugs. Nothing has enabled the pistons to move one little bit.


Kano Kroil is what my engine shop recommends as the best bug
juice out there for loosening rusted engines.  PB would be my
next choice down (I have both).  The electrolysis trick is so
easy to do it would be worth an attempt.  Really.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Jim Cathey
Actually I have and its one reason I've held off on the rr on the 
head. It is a good way to break rods though so I'm thinking to try 
heat first.


You don't do it with the rod connected, or at least not with it
near TDC or BDC.

  The worst thing is that the tractor is at my parents house in Maine, 
thats 180 odd miles from where I live.


Bring it home?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Jim Cathey
I'm getting in on this thread way late, but you think this might work? 
I

have no idea...

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm


That _is_ the trick.  Yeah, it works.  Not so great when
the rust is trapped inside, like between a cylinder wall
and a piston, but still...

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Curt Raymond
To my 3rd floor walkup 1 bedroom apartment? I wonder if I could convince the 
apartment complex it was yard art?
   
  Actually went mortgage pre-approval shopping the other day so this probably 
won't be a big problem for alot longer.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 09:31:23 -0800
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 Actually I have and its one reason I've held off on the rr on the 
 head. It is a good way to break rods though so I'm thinking to try 
 heat first.

You don't do it with the rod connected, or at least not with it
near TDC or BDC.

   The worst thing is that the tractor is at my parents house in 
Maine, 
 thats 180 odd miles from where I live.

Bring it home?

-- Jim



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If I recall my chemistry correctly, you want some liquid which is 
acidic in nature a Ph of 7 or much less is better. This will dissolve 
the metal/rust etc.. Hopefully, the rings causing the problem will 
dissolve before the other metals 
Cheap white vinegar, maybe drain o, lime, etc dissolves  metals/rust. 
Ask someone in a hardware store, they might know a better solution  
It must sit for a couple of days for the chemical reaction to work, and 
maybe you will have to repeat the process. Any oil is not acidic.
Air pressure sounds good also, keep in mind the high pressure cuz of 
flying parts can injure/kill...

Bill
1981 300 TD




Jim Cathey wrote:
   However I intend to get it to run again with new pistons. These have 
 sat in the exact same place for something like 40 years. I expect 
 thats longer than Jim's generator has existed...
 

 The Kohler is about 1965 vintage.  So there!

   
  I've tried better living through chemistry and time for nearly 5 
 years now. I've used used motor oil, marvel oil, PB Blaster, gun 
 scrubber, Coca Cola, kerosene and lately WD-40 because its cheap in 
 gallon jugs. Nothing has enabled the pistons to move one little bit.
 

 Kano Kroil is what my engine shop recommends as the best bug
 juice out there for loosening rusted engines.  PB would be my
 next choice down (I have both).  The electrolysis trick is so
 easy to do it would be worth an attempt.  Really.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-06 Thread Dave Wakin

How about CLR - Calcium, Lime, and Rust remover.



   If I recall my chemistry correctly, you want some liquid which is 
acidic in nature a Ph of 7 or much less is better. This will dissolve 
the metal/rust etc.. Hopefully, the rings causing the problem will 
dissolve before the other metals 
Cheap white vinegar, maybe drain o, lime, etc dissolves  metals/rust. 
Ask someone in a hardware store, they might know a better solution  
It must sit for a couple of days for the chemical reaction to work, and 
maybe you will have to repeat the process. Any oil is not acidic.





Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread Bill Gallagher

Al has a melting point of about 1220F ..

Bill
1981 300 TD


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Do you recall the material used to make the engine block???
Audi made a diesel engine at the famous 24 Hours of Le Mans. The new
Audi R10 is powered by a completely new 5.5-litre, twelve-cylinder
bi-turbo TDI engine which is extremely economical and quiet. Believe it
or not made Made from aluminum If made with a lot of AL, watch it melt
away because of the low melting point of AL .

I can't figure out if this is a serious post or not.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread David Brodbeck
Bill Gallagher wrote:
 Al has a melting point of about 1220F ..

Isn't the melting point of some alloys higher?

There are certainly a lot of engines, both diesel and gasoline, running
around with aluminum heads that haven't melted down.



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread Bill Gallagher
I don't know about alloys, but I think the melting point will be much 
higher i.e. Al pistons. Al is good transfer of heat/cold
   Land Rover have Al body but the engine firewall is made out of steel 
to protect from fire ...


   Next time in a junk yard, look at the melted/deformed Al parts of a 
car in a fire..of course, water cools the heads and others, but a 
car fire, nothing to cool the part, will melt/deform under the high heat 



Bill
1981 300 TD


David Brodbeck wrote:

Bill Gallagher wrote:
  

Al has a melting point of about 1220F ..



Isn't the melting point of some alloys higher?

There are certainly a lot of engines, both diesel and gasoline, running
around with aluminum heads that haven't melted down.

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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread OK Don
I don't think the problem will be melting, rather can it handle the
stresses of an engine that produces 650HP and 811 lb.ft. of torque --
The new Mercedes V8's are Al blocks, and the AMG versions produce some
seriuos power also - so it comes down to engineering ---

On 3/4/06, Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I don't know about alloys, but I think the melting point will be much
 higher i.e. Al pistons. Al is good transfer of heat/cold
 Land Rover have Al body but the engine firewall is made out of steel
 to protect from fire ...

 Next time in a junk yard, look at the melted/deformed Al parts of a
 car in a fire..of course, water cools the heads and others, but a
 car fire, nothing to cool the part, will melt/deform under the high heat
 

 Bill
 1981 300 TD

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread Brian Chase
Since aluminum is the topic of the moment, I do believe I had some TRW 
forged aluminum pistons installed as part of the rebuild of my 440 c.i. V8. 
They would take some heat, wouldn't they?


Brian


From: Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 21:03:30 -0500

I don't know about alloys, but I think the melting point will be much
higher i.e. Al pistons. Al is good transfer of heat/cold
Land Rover have Al body but the engine firewall is made out of steel
to protect from fire ...

Next time in a junk yard, look at the melted/deformed Al parts of a
car in a fire..of course, water cools the heads and others, but a
car fire, nothing to cool the part, will melt/deform under the high heat


Bill
1981 300 TD


David Brodbeck wrote:
 Bill Gallagher wrote:

 Al has a melting point of about 1220F ..


 Isn't the melting point of some alloys higher?

 There are certainly a lot of engines, both diesel and gasoline, running
 around with aluminum heads that haven't melted down.

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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread OK Don
Although I'm sure that they exist, I've never seen a piston that
wasn't aluminum ---

On 3/4/06, Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Since aluminum is the topic of the moment, I do believe I had some TRW
 forged aluminum pistons installed as part of the rebuild of my 440 c.i. V8.
 They would take some heat, wouldn't they?

 Brian



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread Brian Chase

You have partially revealed my ignorance. Easy to do.

Brian


From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 20:48:13 -0600

Although I'm sure that they exist, I've never seen a piston that
wasn't aluminum ---

On 3/4/06, Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Since aluminum is the topic of the moment, I do believe I had some TRW
 forged aluminum pistons installed as part of the rebuild of my 440 c.i. 
V8.

 They would take some heat, wouldn't they?

 Brian



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread Bill Gallagher
Don't you recall pistons melting... too hot of a plug/timing advanced 
too much ? For whatever the reason?
   Just wanted to point out the disadvantage of AL It will deform/melt 
under some situation: Should have fire insurance on a car which I would 
never of though a couple of years ago 


Bill
1981 300 TD

Brian Chase wrote:
Since aluminum is the topic of the moment, I do believe I had some TRW 
forged aluminum pistons installed as part of the rebuild of my 440 c.i. V8. 
They would take some heat, wouldn't they?


Brian

  

From: Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MELT?
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 21:03:30 -0500

I don't know about alloys, but I think the melting point will be much
higher i.e. Al pistons. Al is good transfer of heat/cold
Land Rover have Al body but the engine firewall is made out of steel
to protect from fire ...

Next time in a junk yard, look at the melted/deformed Al parts of a
car in a fire..of course, water cools the heads and others, but a
car fire, nothing to cool the part, will melt/deform under the high heat


Bill
1981 300 TD


David Brodbeck wrote:


Bill Gallagher wrote:

  

Al has a melting point of about 1220F ..



Isn't the melting point of some alloys higher?

There are certainly a lot of engines, both diesel and gasoline, running
around with aluminum heads that haven't melted down.

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Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 4, 2006, at 6:40 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I can't figure out if this is a serious post or not.

RLE



	I wasn't too sure of that one either. How often does your Porsche  
require replacing due to melting?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 4, 2006, at 9:03 PM, Bill Gallagher wrote:

Next time in a junk yard, look at the melted/deformed Al parts  
of a

car in a fire..of course, water cools the heads and others, but a
car fire, nothing to cool the part, will melt/deform under the high  
heat



Bill



Magnesium is another story.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 4, 2006, at 9:44 PM, Brian Chase wrote:


Since aluminum is the topic of the moment, I do believe I had some TRW
forged aluminum pistons installed as part of the rebuild of my 440  
c.i. V8.

They would take some heat, wouldn't they?

Brian



	They better hold up, what other affordable material would you make  
pistons from?


I can't believe this thread has gone this far.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 4, 2006, at 10:38 PM, Bill Gallagher wrote:


Don't you recall pistons melting... too hot of a plug/timing advanced
too much ? For whatever the reason?
Just wanted to point out the disadvantage of AL It will deform/ 
melt
under some situation: Should have fire insurance on a car which I  
would

never of though a couple of years ago 

Bill



Are you guys really serious?

	Yeah pistons can burn through but they generally don't. It takes  
something going wrong for that to happen, and it is highly unlikely  
that your car will burn if you hole a piston.
	Frying pans are made of aluminum too. Will you worry about your  
house catching fire as a result of using aluminum cookware?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-05 Thread David Brodbeck

John Berryman wrote:


Magnesium is another story.
  


VW Beetles used magnesium alloy crankcases and transmission housings.  
(Some of these were later switched to aluminum for strength reasons -- 
magnesium is light, but also soft.)  If an engine fire really gets going 
I'm told it can be quite a show.  I've seen a few pictures of burned 
Beetles where there was very little left.  The gas tank on a Beetle will 
gravity-feed if it's over half full, further improving the chances of a 
big conflagration.




Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-04 Thread RELNGSON
Do you recall the material used to make the engine block???
Audi made a diesel engine at the famous 24 Hours of Le Mans. The new
Audi R10 is powered by a completely new 5.5-litre, twelve-cylinder
bi-turbo TDI engine which is extremely economical and quiet. Believe it
or not made Made from aluminum If made with a lot of AL, watch it melt
away because of the low melting point of AL .

I can't figure out if this is a serious post or not.

RLE


Re: [MBZ] MELT?

2006-03-04 Thread Mitch Haley
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 I can't figure out if this is a serious post or not.

Yeah, an aluminum block will melt slower than aluminum pistons
and heads. It may very well suffer from stress fractures before
it hits 500,000 miles of normal driving, but in racing applications
engines are consumables.