Well, the guy wants over $1000 for it, so it looks like he's keepin' it for
a looong time. His words were the body is too nice and original to
sell it for any less. He didn't like my idea of bringing out a battery to
crank it over to at least be sure that it does turn over, so...
I
Both being 115 you will be happy to have that donor car. Scavenge the
check straps, glass, all sorts of bits, and then go to town getting the
240 running really well. I suspect that after 30 years the IP just
needs to be replaced. The seller seems to have done a poor job doing
it right.
I
Jim Cathey wrote:
Oh, I know he wants a factory tire jack.
Is it the same as a W123 jack? I have one that's no longer of any use
to me, since rust has gotten to the jack points of my car in a serious
way. I carry a 2.5-ton scissor jack instead.
More the urination upon the leg and soul of the seller than the loss of
fuel should you twist a wrench for five minutes and drive off in a $300
car that is now worth $900
On Monday, March 6, 2006, at 03:18 PM, kevin kraly wrote:
That was my plan. It's better to do repairs after the sale.
Well, let him know that when he comes to his senses, you are
interested. He will have a nice ornament for the lawn this summer.
When he calls for the car donation pick up and learns it is worth $150
at the pick and pull (where the non runners are ending up) he may wish
he had sold it for
Is it the same as a W123 jack? I have one that's no longer of any use
to me, since rust has gotten to the jack points of my car in a serious
way. I carry a 2.5-ton scissor jack instead.
I think so. Price? (And I'll check our 123 jack in our 115
to be sure.)
-- Jim
let him know that when he comes to his senses, you are
interested.
I told him to keep me in mind when he's ready to sell it at a reasonable
price. Meanwhile, I think that I'll be hunting for another W115 of any
flavor, possibly even a 300D if I'm lucky enough to find one of those
because
the shutoff leaver/cable on the side of the pump is out of adjustment
and not fulling going to the run position.
kevin kraly wrote:
Well, I've been going back and forth on this 220D project should I fix it,
should I part it out? Well, I'm parting her out. However, I think I may
have found
Well, I've been going back and forth on this 220D project should I fix
it,
should I part it out? Well, I'm parting her out. However, I think I
may
I have a neighbor that's going to be putting together the Blackberry
Farm
115 I passed on to him. I'll let him know. He went with me to the
Hi, Jim.
I was thinking of offering the guy $300 at the most. It's gonna cost me
money to haul it outa there, or it's gonna cost me time to get it running so
that it can drive away. Hopefully, he wants it gone in a bad enough way
that he'll agree to my price. It's about 20 miles or so from
the shutoff leaver/cable on the side of the pump is out of adjustment
and not fully going to the run position.
Does the rod/linkage need to be extended? How is it done? If I decide to
buy it, it's possible that this could be done in a matter of minutes and the
car can drive away under its
Does the rod/linkage need to be extended? How is it done?
You can unhook it (cable) from the side of the pump.
If I decide to buy it, it's possible that this could be done
in a matter of minutes and the car can drive away under its own power.
Yes, but in the interest of not peeing all over
That was my plan. It's better to do repairs after the sale. What would
cause it to pee all over once the cable is removed? Is there anything
that can be done to avoid it? I know that bleeding injectors and changing
fuel filters will certainly make a mess (peeing all over).
Kevin in
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