Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Matteo, Le fotografie sono degli oggetti d'arte. Il cristallo blu è incredibile. Scusarsi il mio italiano di liceo. I miei complimenti. Ciao, Guido -Original Message- From: M come Meteorite Meteorites i...@mcomemeteorite.it Sent: Jan 28, 2010 2:03 AM To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) this what is possible take with a Zeiss Luminar 16 mm http://www.mindat.org/photo-274787.html http://www.mindat.org/photo-268445.html just two examples Matteo Matteo, dont mention Zeiss lenses. I'll burst with jealousy! You are spoiled! [Erik] M come Meteorite Meteoriti i...@mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.org Mindat Gallery http://www.mindat.org/gallery-5018.html ChinellatoPhoto Servizi Fotografici http://www.chinellatophoto.com __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Hello Listers, If you want a sharp image use a flash. All I have been reading about this topic is on the f stop to maximize focus. True, that does control the DOF, but if you really want to capture a cripes image of your meteorites, I would suggest getting a flash, because that elements out of focus shots due to the length of the exposure time. And if you can get a hold of a macro lens that would be even better to capture the fine detail of the meteorite. Here is a link http://www.encyclopedia-of-meteorites.com/collection.aspx?id=2704 to some of the meteorites I have in my growing collection that I have photographed with a profoto flash with an umbrella attached to the flash. The camera that I was using at the time was a Nikon d200 with a 18mm to 70mm lens. In the next few days ill be getting a macro lens from work and I might re shot my meteorites with the macro lens and set it at 1:1 ratio, now that will be a sight to see. Shawn Alan __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Hello Listers, If you want a sharp image use a flash. All I have been reading about this topic is on the f stop to maximize focus. True, that does control the DOF, but if you really want to capture a cripes image of your meteorites, I would suggest getting a flash, because that elements out of focus shots due to the length of the exposure time. And if you can get a hold of a macro lens that would be even better to capture the fine detail of the meteorite. Here is a link http://www.encyclopedia-of-meteorites.com/collection.aspx?id=2704 to some of the meteorites I have in my growing collection that I have photographed with a profoto flash with an umbrella attached to the flash. The camera that I was using at the time was a Nikon d200 with a 18mm to 70mm lens. In the next few days ill be getting a macro lens from work and I might re shot my meteorites with the macro lens and set it at 1:1 ratio, now that will be a sight to see. Shawn Alan __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
I have not really taken great care doing macro photography of my meteorites. it doesnt matter what fstop you use as long as the lighting is correct. f22 with the right exposure time and lighting from a candle can get even better results than taking a photo in the full light of the sun. instead of using photoshop to combine images, longer exposure while you change the direction of the light source can do the same as combining images in photoshop with a lot less work. using 1 to 10x closeup lenses along with polarizing filters to reduce glare and using a background with as little contrast as possible can make your subject pop! i like to use wet dry sandpaper as a background. it gives less contrast and when adjusted to look white instead of grey gives a lot more detail. read up on the f16 rule and try to stick by it in your photos. if you use real film and not digital you can also control the light during printing. if you do your own processing. the best thing to do is to experiment and see what works for you. have a great day Steve Dunklee --- On Thu, 1/28/10, Shawn Alan photoph...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Shawn Alan photoph...@yahoo.com Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) To: meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Date: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 9:07 AM Hello Listers, If you want a sharp image use a flash. All I have been reading about this topic is on the f stop to maximize focus. True, that does control the DOF, but if you really want to capture a cripes image of your meteorites, I would suggest getting a flash, because that elements out of focus shots due to the length of the exposure time. And if you can get a hold of a macro lens that would be even better to capture the fine detail of the meteorite. Here is a link http://www.encyclopedia-of-meteorites.com/collection.aspx?id=2704 to some of the meteorites I have in my growing collection that I have photographed with a profoto flash with an umbrella attached to the flash. The camera that I was using at the time was a Nikon d200 with a 18mm to 70mm lens. In the next few days ill be getting a macro lens from work and I might re shot my meteorites with the macro lens and set it at 1:1 ratio, now that will be a sight to see. Shawn Alan __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
gee i suck lol, i have 2 pentax k1000 cams a yashica xd twin lens large format , a conica35mm , an argus 35mm an minolta md and a hasselblad large format with a large collection of filters for every occasion. yet i still have made all of my meteorite photos with a $20 vivitar web cam and a goose neck lamp for lighting lol. for real closeups i reverse the lens by screwing it in backwards. If i ever decide to get serious about meteorite photos, I think I could make some that make Tom Phillips blush! oops i already have! Great photos Tom! have a great day Steve Dunklee --- On Thu, 1/28/10, Shawn Alan photoph...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Shawn Alan photoph...@yahoo.com Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) To: meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Date: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 9:02 AM Hello Listers, If you want a sharp image use a flash. All I have been reading about this topic is on the f stop to maximize focus. True, that does control the DOF, but if you really want to capture a cripes image of your meteorites, I would suggest getting a flash, because that elements out of focus shots due to the length of the exposure time. And if you can get a hold of a macro lens that would be even better to capture the fine detail of the meteorite. Here is a link http://www.encyclopedia-of-meteorites.com/collection.aspx?id=2704 to some of the meteorites I have in my growing collection that I have photographed with a profoto flash with an umbrella attached to the flash. The camera that I was using at the time was a Nikon d200 with a 18mm to 70mm lens. In the next few days ill be getting a macro lens from work and I might re shot my meteorites with the macro lens and set it at 1:1 ratio, now that will be a sight to see. Shawn Alan __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
only? I have 3 pentax MX, 1 mamiya 6x6, 1 canon 50E, 1 Canon 7D, 1 Canon 20D, 1 Casio EX F1, 1 Casio FC 100 and tons of lenses from 16 to 1200 mm...and at some months arrive the Canon 5D mark II Matteo - Original Message - Da : Steve Dunklee steve.dunk...@yahoo.com A : meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com, Shawn Alan photoph...@yahoo.com Oggetto : Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) Data : Thu, 28 Jan 2010 02:09:41 -0800 (PST) gee i suck lol, i have 2 pentax k1000 cams a yashica xd twin lens large format , a conica35mm , an argus 35mm an minolta md and a hasselblad large format with a large collection of filters for every occasion. M come Meteorite Meteoriti i...@mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.org Mindat Gallery http://www.mindat.org/gallery-5018.html ChinellatoPhoto Servizi Fotografici http://www.chinellatophoto.com __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Steve that is quite a list of cameras you got, but you decide to only use a $20 dollar camera, I guess I need to get one of those. By chance, do you have a link to images of your meteorites? I would like to take a look at them. Shawn Alan [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) Steve Dunklee steve.dunklee at yahoo.com Thu Jan 28 05:09:41 EST 2010 Previous message: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) Next message: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ] gee i suck lol, i have 2 pentax k1000 cams a yashica xd twin lens large format , a conica35mm , an argus 35mm an minolta md and a hasselblad large format with a large collection of filters for every occasion. yet i still have made all of my meteorite photos with a $20 vivitar web cam and a goose neck lamp for lighting lol. for real closeups i reverse the lens by screwing it in backwards. If i ever decide to get serious about meteorite photos, I think I could make some that make Tom Phillips blush! oops i already have! Great photos Tom! have a great day Steve Dunklee --- On Thu, 1/28/10, Shawn Alan photophlow at yahoo.com wrote: From: Shawn Alan photophlow at yahoo.com Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) To: meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com Date: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 9:02 AM Hello Listers, If you want a sharp image use a flash. All I have been reading about this topic is on the f stop to maximize focus. True, that does control the DOF, but if you really want to capture a cripes image of your meteorites, I would suggest getting a flash, because that elements out of focus shots due to the length of the exposure time. And if you can get a hold of a macro lens that would be even better to capture the fine detail of the meteorite. Here is a link http://www.encyclopedia-of-meteorites.com/collection.aspx?id=2704 to some of the meteorites I have in my growing collection that I have photographed with a profoto flash with an umbrella attached to the flash. The camera that I was using at the time was a Nikon d200 with a 18mm to 70mm lens. In the next few days ill be getting a macro lens from work and I might re shot my meteorites with the macro lens and set it at 1:1 ratio, now that will be a sight to see. Shawn Alan __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Hi Erik and all, I'd think just the opposite would be correct. A higher f-stop (f 22, 18 etc.) would create a better depth of field and the more open your iris is on your camera (lower f stop, 1.8, 2.0 etc.) the less focused your items would be. I think you just stated it backwards. Best! --AL Mitterling Mitterling Meteorites - Original Message - From: Erik Fisler erikfw...@msn.com To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Al is right on this one. The higher the F-stop number, the greater the depth of field is, i.e more of a three dimensional object will be in focus. The drawback to this is less light enters the lens thus requiring a longer shutter speed. And, if your not careful, a background that is too close can be in focus as well. There are many different ways to take good quality pictures of meteorites, experimentation is the key. Best, John Gwilliam At 06:50 AM 1/27/2010, al mitt wrote: Hi Erik and all, I'd think just the opposite would be correct. A higher f-stop (f 22, 18 etc.) would create a better depth of field and the more open your iris is on your camera (lower f stop, 1.8, 2.0 etc.) the less focused your items would be. I think you just stated it backwards. Best! --AL Mitterling Mitterling Meteorites - Original Message - From: Erik Fisler erikfw...@msn.com To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list Regards, John Gwilliam Some people are born on third base and go through life thinking they hit a triple. [Bob Dylan] __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Hi All, Actually there is a further concern here. Although when a lens is stopped down to its max it does have the greatest depth of field, but it is also not at its sweet spot for sharpness. Usually a stop or two less than max provides the sharpest image the lens is capable of. Here is more about this: http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/diffraction.html Best, Martin On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 7:27 AM, John Gwilliam j...@cox.net wrote: Al is right on this one. The higher the F-stop number, the greater the depth of field is, i.e more of a three dimensional object will be in focus. The drawback to this is less light enters the lens thus requiring a longer shutter speed. And, if your not careful, a background that is too close can be in focus as well. There are many different ways to take good quality pictures of meteorites, experimentation is the key. Best, John Gwilliam At 06:50 AM 1/27/2010, al mitt wrote: Hi Erik and all, I'd think just the opposite would be correct. A higher f-stop (f 22, 18 etc.) would create a better depth of field and the more open your iris is on your camera (lower f stop, 1.8, 2.0 etc.) the less focused your items would be. I think you just stated it backwards. Best! --AL Mitterling Mitterling Meteorites - Original Message - From: Erik Fisler erikfw...@msn.com To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list Regards, John Gwilliam Some people are born on third base and go through life thinking they hit a triple. [Bob Dylan] __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Erik is right, The higher f-stop of 22 will increase depth of field, not sharpness of focus. Though it's related, it's not quite the same. Your focus is not controlled entirely by f-stop, only the DOF and amount of light allow into the camera. This is why sports photographers use a low/large f-stop lens like f2.8 lenses. The reason is simple, the smaller aperture only allow focus on a small area of the subject, blurs out the background and has a very shallow DOF which focuses (at distance) in the perfect zone, making the player seem in sharp focus. Simply stopping down to f22 you would be able to see everything behind the player, distracting the subject, and it would not be as sharp. The distance to the subject also plays a large part in DOF focus. DOF can be measured in percentages to give a better idea of the range of focus. If point A were 2 inches in front of your subject, and point D was the background, then points B to C would be the area in which your the photo would be in focus and directly related to your f-stop number. Shallower is sharper, sharper is smaller, i.e. f.2.8 is will be sharper than f22. When photographing meteorites, or anything, it's the same thing. Regards, Eric On 1/27/2010 5:50 AM, al mitt wrote: Hi Erik and all, I'd think just the opposite would be correct. A higher f-stop (f 22, 18 etc.) would create a better depth of field and the more open your iris is on your camera (lower f stop, 1.8, 2.0 etc.) the less focused your items would be. I think you just stated it backwards. Best! --AL Mitterling Mitterling Meteorites - Original Message - From: Erik Fisler erikfw...@msn.com To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography
Hi Eric, Al, Erik, Erik is right, The higher f-stop of 22 will increase depth of field ... Yes. ... not sharpness of focus. Unless you have a very good lens, it will ALSO increase sharpness of focus for stationary objects. This is why sports photographers use a low/large f-stop lens like f2.8 lenses. (f/2.8 is actually not that fast a lens for a professional. f/1.4 is a fast lens.) The reason is simple, the smaller aperture only allow focus on a small area of the subject, blurs out the background and has a very shallow DOF ... All of these points are true, but that's not the main reason sports photographers use low f/#. In sports photography, short exposure times are crucial so that action isn't blurred. This cannot be achieved at high f/# because the stopped-down lens doesn't let in enough light for a properly exposed image. That said, professional photographers usually do NOT use the fastest f-stop of a lens since the lens periphery has the maximum optical aberrations. An image (of a still object like a meteorite) taken at f/1.4 using an f/1.4 lens will rarely be as crisp as an image taken with the same lens at f/2. Best, Rob __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography
While there are exceptions, most lenses give their best optical performance about two stops below their fully open setting. That's where you'll usually get the best balance between overall resolution and minimum off-axis aberrations. Chris * Chris L Peterson Cloudbait Observatory http://www.cloudbait.com __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Hmm, where to start How about a couple general points: First, a smaller aperture is a bigger number as it represents a ratio of lens diameter to aperture opening. I believe that is expressed backward in the previous post. Further a doubling or halving of the shutter speed or ISO is the same as a one stop increase or decrease in aperture. Sports photogs use fast lens because in the Shutter speed/aperture/ISO equation, more light = higher usable shutter speed at the same ISO. Tele lenses compress the image FOV and have a narrower DOF than normal or wide lenses. The DOF works both ways-in front of prime focus and behind it. A stopped down tele lens still has a short DOF and the background would only be in focus if the DOF contained infinity. A lens wide open i.e. 2.8 can not be sharper than the lens stopped down. Isolated elements in the photo are not the same as sharpness. Macro lenses are designed to be flat field so when moving to the macro world, the playing field changes, especially when using extension tubes, bellows, or the like. The optical physics are straight forward, but often mixed with human interpretation of an image. But in the end, physics is physics. -Martin On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 11:14 AM, Meteorites USA e...@meteoritesusa.com wrote: Erik is right, The higher f-stop of 22 will increase depth of field, not sharpness of focus. Though it's related, it's not quite the same. Your focus is not controlled entirely by f-stop, only the DOF and amount of light allow into the camera. This is why sports photographers use a low/large f-stop lens like f2.8 lenses. The reason is simple, the smaller aperture only allow focus on a small area of the subject, blurs out the background and has a very shallow DOF which focuses (at distance) in the perfect zone, making the player seem in sharp focus. Simply stopping down to f22 you would be able to see everything behind the player, distracting the subject, and it would not be as sharp. The distance to the subject also plays a large part in DOF focus. DOF can be measured in percentages to give a better idea of the range of focus. If point A were 2 inches in front of your subject, and point D was the background, then points B to C would be the area in which your the photo would be in focus and directly related to your f-stop number. Shallower is sharper, sharper is smaller, i.e. f.2.8 is will be sharper than f22. When photographing meteorites, or anything, it's the same thing. Regards, Eric On 1/27/2010 5:50 AM, al mitt wrote: Hi Erik and all, I'd think just the opposite would be correct. A higher f-stop (f 22, 18 etc.) would create a better depth of field and the more open your iris is on your camera (lower f stop, 1.8, 2.0 etc.) the less focused your items would be. I think you just stated it backwards. Best! --AL Mitterling Mitterling Meteorites - Original Message - From: Erik Fisler erikfw...@msn.com To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography
Agreed, but I was really only using the sports analogy as an example of f-stop use because I assumed it would be familiar to people and they could visualize what was being described much better. ;) The ultimate point being that f-stop isn't the controlling factor for sharper photos though it's related. Also, you don't need a digital SLR to make crisp clean photos. (though it helps) A simple point and shoot camera will work great if you know how to maximize it's settings to get the best results. Regards, Eric On 1/27/2010 10:44 AM, Matson, Robert D. wrote: Hi Eric, Al, Erik, Erik is right, The higher f-stop of 22 will increase depth of field ... Yes. ... not sharpness of focus. Unless you have a very good lens, it will ALSO increase sharpness of focus for stationary objects. This is why sports photographers use a low/large f-stop lens like f2.8 lenses. (f/2.8 is actually not that fast a lens for a professional. f/1.4 is a fast lens.) The reason is simple, the smaller aperture only allow focus on a small area of the subject, blurs out the background and has a very shallow DOF ... All of these points are true, but that's not the main reason sports photographers use low f/#. In sports photography, short exposure times are crucial so that action isn't blurred. This cannot be achieved at high f/# because the stopped-down lens doesn't let in enough light for a properly exposed image. That said, professional photographers usually do NOT use the fastest f-stop of a lens since the lens periphery has the maximum optical aberrations. An image (of a still object like a meteorite) taken at f/1.4 using an f/1.4 lens will rarely be as crisp as an image taken with the same lens at f/2. Best, Rob __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography
Hi All, While 2.8 does not seem all that fast, it is a standard speed for macro/micro lens. However, the big guns for sports, news, and wildlife routinely have 2.8 firepower with the 300 2.8 as the standard and even a 400 2.8! 500s and 600s are available in f4. Ultra wides in the 2.8 range are also considered screamers. The fastest lens I know of is Leica's 50mm F0.95 -Martin On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 11:44 AM, Matson, Robert D. robert.d.mat...@saic.com wrote: Hi Eric, Al, Erik, Erik is right, The higher f-stop of 22 will increase depth of field ... Yes. ... not sharpness of focus. Unless you have a very good lens, it will ALSO increase sharpness of focus for stationary objects. This is why sports photographers use a low/large f-stop lens like f2.8 lenses. (f/2.8 is actually not that fast a lens for a professional. f/1.4 is a fast lens.) The reason is simple, the smaller aperture only allow focus on a small area of the subject, blurs out the background and has a very shallow DOF ... All of these points are true, but that's not the main reason sports photographers use low f/#. In sports photography, short exposure times are crucial so that action isn't blurred. This cannot be achieved at high f/# because the stopped-down lens doesn't let in enough light for a properly exposed image. That said, professional photographers usually do NOT use the fastest f-stop of a lens since the lens periphery has the maximum optical aberrations. An image (of a still object like a meteorite) taken at f/1.4 using an f/1.4 lens will rarely be as crisp as an image taken with the same lens at f/2. Best, Rob __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Uh... sure it can... In the DOF zone it will be crystal clear IF... It depends on MANY factors such a light, shutter speed, film speed (er, uh, ISO setting), autofocus setting, manual focus, type of lens, type of glass in the lense, whether the lens is clean, whether the camera is handheld or shooting from a tripod or monopod, how fast the shutter speed is relative to the subject, whether the camera is being panned with a moving subject or the subject is still. There are Unlimited variables. An f/2.8 lens focused properly with the right settings will be just as sharp in the given DOF of a comparable photo/subject photographed at a slower/smaller f/22 aperture. Regards, Eric On 1/27/2010 11:10 AM, Dark Matter wrote: A lens wide open i.e. 2.8 can not be sharper than the lens stopped down. Isolated elements in the photo are not the same as sharpness. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography
for similar photos its ok a 100 macro lens. I work normaly with a Canon 100 mm macro, with a f10 max f16 close. If I have to work on macro-micro mineralogy photos, I use Zeiss lenses, with this lenses I arrive to take photos of crystals under the 1 mm, mormaly max. 0.6 mm. Matteo M come Meteorite Meteoriti i...@mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.org Mindat Gallery http://www.mindat.org/gallery-5018.html ChinellatoPhoto Servizi Fotografici http://www.chinellatophoto.com __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Sorry, but it won't. The measures are small, but the optical physics are real. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50-comparison/f-stops.htm Best, Martin Eric wrote: An f/2.8 lens focused properly with the right settings will be just as sharp in the given DOF of a comparable photo/subject photographed at a slower/smaller f/22 aperture. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Without seeming to endlessly argue with the data presented. I would like to point out the the sharpness examples in the link you provided are taken from a VERY small percentage of the overall image. In relation to the entire photo taken as a whole the sharpness of the image is comparable at any given area over an average. Macro meteorite photography works the same way, and I would bet that 99% of people who view any photo don't look at such a small section of the entire photo. This is fine when shopping for a lens, but for most photos, frankly it does not matter much. Especially when talking about web galleries of images at 72 DPI. Now when talking about print resolution and sharpness that's a whole other topic. ;) Regards, Eric On 1/27/2010 11:49 AM, Dark Matter wrote: Sorry, but it won't. The measures are small, but the optical physics are real. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50-comparison/f-stops.htm Best, Martin Eric wrote: An f/2.8 lens focused properly with the right settings will be just as sharp in the given DOF of a comparable photo/subject photographed at a slower/smaller f/22 aperture. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Agreed. Perception is often reality. However, half the fun of this List is when the content spins from the pedestrian to the academic. Best, Martin On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 1:02 PM, Meteorites USA e...@meteoritesusa.com wrote: Without seeming to endlessly argue with the data presented. I would like to point out the the sharpness examples in the link you provided are taken from a VERY small percentage of the overall image. In relation to the entire photo taken as a whole the sharpness of the image is comparable at any given area over an average. Macro meteorite photography works the same way, and I would bet that 99% of people who view any photo don't look at such a small section of the entire photo. This is fine when shopping for a lens, but for most photos, frankly it does not matter much. Especially when talking about web galleries of images at 72 DPI. Now when talking about print resolution and sharpness that's a whole other topic. ;) Regards, Eric On 1/27/2010 11:49 AM, Dark Matter wrote: Sorry, but it won't. The measures are small, but the optical physics are real. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50-comparison/f-stops.htm Best, Martin Eric wrote: An f/2.8 lens focused properly with the right settings will be just as sharp in the given DOF of a comparable photo/subject photographed at a slower/smaller f/22 aperture. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Just to put a quantitative spin on this, the physical size of the Airy disc (the diffraction spot produced by a point source) is directly related to focal ratio. Any lens at f/22 will produce a diffraction spot 27 um in diameter. Any lens at f/8 will produce a diffraction spot 11 um in diameter. Any lens at f/5 will produce a diffraction spot 7 um in diameters. Most digital cameras these days have pixel sizes in the range of 5-6 um. What that means is that if you use the lens any slower than f/4 you are losing resolution to diffraction effects. The lens needs to be operated faster than f/4 in order for the diffraction and the pixels to be well matched. Of course, you have to offset that against the fact that as the focal ratio gets smaller, aberrations- especially off-axis aberrations- get more severe. That's the idea behind the rule-of-thumb that optimum sharpness is usually seen a stop or two below wide open. Chris * Chris L Peterson Cloudbait Observatory http://www.cloudbait.com - Original Message - From: Dark Matter freequa...@gmail.com To: Meteorites USA e...@meteoritesusa.com Cc: Meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 12:49 PM Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) Sorry, but it won't. The measures are small, but the optical physics are real. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50-comparison/f-stops.htm __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
To restate what Chris pointed out as the optical law: diffraction effects begin as soon as you stop the lens down. A perfect lens would be sharpest across the field of view and in the plane of focus at its widest aperture. There are no consumer grade perfect lenses so some diffraction worsening of center sharpness must be tolerated to bring the off axis image into general conformance. To those who are using a single image for the final image, depth of field may be more critical than optimum sharpness as the widely out of focus areas may be more damaging to the overall image than the loss of maximum sharpness due to diffraction. Only the plane of focus has the sharpest image; depth of field can be defined as the total distance in front of and behind the plane of focus in which the circle of confusion does not exceed some user defined limit. In other words, one plane only is perfect and the farther you get from that plane fore and aft, the fuzzier the image gets until it is unacceptable to the user. The really critical point in the original post was the stacking of multiple images - each image being the sharpest obtainable of that plane of focus until you had multiple planes of focus that covered the entire depth of the subject. In the old days this was only obtainable by using a mechanical focus table and a slit light. The object to be photographed would be placed on the table with the camera vertically above it. The lens would be focused at the plane of illumination and set to its sharpest aperture. The illumination would come from the side/sides in the form of light projected through a narrow horizontal slit (say between two razor blades). The lens of the camera would be opened and the table would rise through the light at a speed sufficient to give proper exposure. Since each plane of the object would be illuminated only when it was at the plane of focus of the lens, all planes of the object would be recorded at maximum sharpness. Tricky, but now more easily done in the digital world by just taking multiple images at different distances at optimum aperture and using stacking software to combine them into one all sharp image. Sort of the ultimate unsharp mask. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
AL John- More depth of field at higher F-stops yes, but you loose sharpness with each f-stop. Therfore, combining a series of F2.8 shots into one picture will be sharper then shooting at F22. This is proven and published in several canon and nikon articles. Especially when you have a 10-24mega pixel camera with highlight tone priority on with a good processor. Rob- An interesting fact that ties in with when you say a good lens is that lenses with the wider minimum apertures are sharper at higher f-stops than lenses that don't as wide of a minimum aperture. For example: An F1.4 lens at F3.5 is sharper then a F2.8 lens is at F3.5. Chris is very right! I use my F1.8 50mm at a minimum of F2.2-F2.8 for that very reason. It's often in Vincent Laforet's Blogs. Martin is right about extension tubes! I also have the Sigma 70-300mm which, with the flip of a switch, can be used for macro between 200mm and 300mm. That is the sharpest F3.5-5.6 lens I've ever seen or used. I can't believe I only payed $200 for it! It's a challenge to flip it to macro, then put both of my extension tubes on it. It's almost a microscope! Matteo, dont mention Zeiss lenses. I'll burst with jealousy! You are spoiled! [Erik] From: alm...@kconline.com To: meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 08:50:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) Hi Erik and all, I'd think just the opposite would be correct. A higher f-stop (f 22, 18 etc.) would create a better depth of field and the more open your iris is on your camera (lower f stop, 1.8, 2.0 etc.) the less focused your items would be. I think you just stated it backwards. Best! --AL Mitterling Mitterling Meteorites - Original Message - From: Erik Fisler erikfw...@msn.com To: meteorite-list meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!) The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
this what is possible take with a Zeiss Luminar 16 mm http://www.mindat.org/photo-274787.html http://www.mindat.org/photo-268445.html just two examples Matteo Matteo, dont mention Zeiss lenses. I'll burst with jealousy! You are spoiled! [Erik] M come Meteorite Meteoriti i...@mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.it http://www.mcomemeteorite.org Mindat Gallery http://www.mindat.org/gallery-5018.html ChinellatoPhoto Servizi Fotografici http://www.chinellatophoto.com __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
I'd like to share some photography tips with list members that might help with photographing your meteorites. The first thing I would like to share is a silver reflector. here are some pictures: - http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Photographing_a_model_1.jpg/260px-Photographing_a_model_1.jpg - http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2673/3843207418_17bd3e73bf_m.jpg Mainly used in portrait photography but works great for meteorites. It is used to reflect soft light onto the subject(meteorite). I use it to fill in the shadows because sunlight can make highlights and shadows harsh. I have a 5-in-1 reflector made by promaster. They usually run about $35 because you are paying for 4 different reflectors and a diffusion screen. The second thing is custom white balancing. Have you ever taking pictures in the shade or inside and the picture came out way too yellow or too blue? This is because the auto-white balance on your camera didn't do so well. Many digital camera's(Most SLR's) have a custom white balance setting. Just simply hold up a white sheet of paper in the light you will be shooting in and take a picture of it. Then find custom white balance and select the picture you took of the paper. Now when you shoot in that light the picture will be properly white balanced. This is a life saver for Nikon shooters because Nikon has terrible auto white balance. The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. Fortunately, photoshop can take a batch of photos, align them, and then blend the sharpest plains of focus into one picture. To do this set your camera on a tripod and set it to Av(aperature mode) spin the wheel to drop your F-stop to as low as you can get it. Some lenses only drop to F3.5 which is still fine. Then switch your lens to manual focus. Focus until just the front part of your meteorite is in focus and take a picture, then keep taking pictures as you change the focus in small increments. You should end up with 5 to 10 pictures with different parts of the meteorite in focus. Open photoshop and the go FileScriptsLoad Files into Stack... Select all of the photos and be sure to check the box that says Attempt To Automatically Align Source Images. Select ok and let photoshop align the images. Then go under the tab Window and make sure Layers has a check next to it. The layers box should be on the right side of your screen. All the pictures will be listed under layers. Select them all. You can do this by holding ctrl key and clicking each one or click the first, then holding shift as you click the last. Once they are all selected go to the Edit tab and select Autoblend layers and choose to autblend them as a stack. Once it is done blending you need to click Save as and save it as a Jpeg because it will try to save it as something else. Then close out of the image in photo shop, if it asks you if you want to save click NO. Then you can open up the jpeg version you saved and edit it how you like (brightness/contrast etc..) or leave it as is. Here is an example i made with only 5 pictures blended: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/phxerik/?action=viewcurrent=blended.jpg The fourth thing is highlight tone priority. You can enable this in your custom functions for canon shooters. I know Nikon has the setting but I don't know what it's called. This setting will make sure that your picture's highlights will not be blown out. It also allows your processor to use all its bits. My camera's have 14bit processors but if Highlight tone priority is off the image only processes at 10 bits. When i use HTP and get the full 14bits, this allows my picture to smooth out the changes in light to dark in my photos. This makes everything shaded better, especially clouds! The fourth and last thing is HDR photography(High Dynamic Range). You do not need a SLR to do this. Most point and shoot cameras can do this too! Sometimes a picture can be too dark in one part and too light in another. If you take one picture over exposed, one under exposed, and one properly exposed and blend them together it will allow all parts of your picture to be properly exposed. Here is an example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnmueller/2158395487/ an here is the link on how to do it: http://abduzeedo.com/how-create-hdr-photos-hdrphotomatix-tutorial Enjoy! __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Good Stuff Erik! Was going to do something like that but you beat me to it... ;) Nice work. Keep it up... Regards, Eric On 1/26/2010 12:51 PM, Erik Fisler wrote: I'd like to share some photography tips with list members that might help with photographing your meteorites. The first thing I would like to share is a silver reflector. here are some pictures: - http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Photographing_a_model_1.jpg/260px-Photographing_a_model_1.jpg - http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2673/3843207418_17bd3e73bf_m.jpg Mainly used in portrait photography but works great for meteorites. It is used to reflect soft light onto the subject(meteorite). I use it to fill in the shadows because sunlight can make highlights and shadows harsh. I have a 5-in-1 reflector made by promaster. They usually run about $35 because you are paying for 4 different reflectors and a diffusion screen. The second thing is custom white balancing. Have you ever taking pictures in the shade or inside and the picture came out way too yellow or too blue? This is because the auto-white balance on your camera didn't do so well. Many digital camera's(Most SLR's) have a custom white balance setting. Just simply hold up a white sheet of paper in the light you will be shooting in and take a picture of it. Then find custom white balance and select the picture you took of the paper. Now when you shoot in that light the picture will be properly white balanced. This is a life saver for Nikon shooters because Nikon has terrible auto white balance. The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. Fortunately, photoshop can take a batch of photos, align them, and then blend the sharpest plains of focus into one picture. To do this set your camera on a tripod and set it to Av(aperature mode) spin the wheel to drop your F-stop to as low as you can get it. Some lenses only drop to F3.5 which is still fine. Then switch your lens to manual focus. Focus until just the front part of your meteorite is in focus and take a picture, then keep taking pictures as you change the focus in small increments. You should end up with 5 to 10 pictures with different parts of the meteorite in focus. Open photoshop and the go FileScriptsLoad Files into Stack... Select all of the photos and be sure to check the box that says Attempt To Automatically Align Source Images. Select ok and let photoshop align the images. Then go under the tab Window and make sure Layers has a check next to it. The layers box should be on the right side of your screen. All the pictures will be listed under layers. Select them all. You can do this by holding ctrl key and clicking each one or click the first, then holding shift as you click the last. Once they are all selected go to the Edit tab and select Autoblend layers and choose to autblend them as a stack. Once it is done blending you need to click Save as and save it as a Jpeg because it will try to save it as something else. Then close out of the image in photo shop, if it asks you if you want to save click NO. Then you can open up the jpeg version you saved and edit it how you like (brightness/contrast etc..) or leave it as is. Here is an example i made with only 5 pictures blended: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/phxerik/?action=viewcurrent=blended.jpg The fourth thing is highlight tone priority. You can enable this in your custom functions for canon shooters. I know Nikon has the setting but I don't know what it's called. This setting will make sure that your picture's highlights will not be blown out. It also allows your processor to use all its bits. My camera's have 14bit processors but if Highlight tone priority is off the image only processes at 10 bits. When i use HTP and get the full 14bits, this allows my picture to smooth out the changes in light to dark in my photos. This makes everything shaded better, especially clouds! The fourth and last thing is HDR photography(High Dynamic Range). You do not need a SLR to do this. Most point and shoot cameras can do this too! Sometimes a picture can be too dark in one part and too light in another. If you take one picture over exposed, one under exposed, and one properly exposed and blend them together it will allow all parts of your picture to be properly exposed. Here is an example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnmueller/2158395487/ an here is the link on how to do it: http://abduzeedo.com/how-create-hdr-photos-hdrphotomatix-tutorial Enjoy! __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
this photos its to much darkness, you have use to much the lens closed with the f22 and depend many from what type of light you use. This is some photos I have take to my pieces http://i46.tinypic.com/vg1n5v.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/zmkxo1.jpg http://i48.tinypic.com/2e32yz5.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/2hn43nt.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/11b2fdj.jpg http://i47.tinypic.com/5zkv20.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/6p4ydd.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/2a50t0.jpg with f10 with my ex camera Canon 40D. Matteo I'd like to share some photography tips with list members that might help with photographing your meteorites. The first thing I would like to share is a silver reflector. here are some pictures: - http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Photographing_a_model_1.jpg/260px-Photographing_a_model_1.jpg - http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2673/3843207418_17bd3e73bf_m.jpg Mainly used in portrait photography but works great for meteorites. It is used to reflect soft light onto the subject(meteorite). I use it to fill in the shadows because sunlight can make highlights and shadows harsh. I have a 5-in-1 reflector made by promaster. They usually run about $35 because you are paying for 4 different reflectors and a diffusion screen. The second thing is custom white balancing. Have you ever taking pictures in the shade or inside and the picture came out way too yellow or too blue? This is because the auto-white balance on your camera didn't do so well. Many digital camera's(Most SLR's) have a custom white balance setting. Just simply hold up a white sheet of paper in the light you will be shooting in and take a picture of it. Then find custom white balance and select the picture you took of the paper. Now when you shoot in that light the picture will be properly white balanced. This is a life saver for Nikon shooters because Nikon has terrible auto white balance. The third thing is auto-blending. For those of you who have SLR's you will notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than shooting at a lower F-stop like F22. The problem is, you might have to drop your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus. Fortunately, photoshop can take a batch of photos, align them, and then blend the sharpest plains of focus into one picture. To do this set your camera on a tripod and set it to Av(aperature mode) spin the wheel to drop your F-stop to as low as you can get it. Some lenses only drop to F3.5 which is still fine. Then switch your lens to manual focus. Focus until just the front part of your meteorite is in focus and take a picture, then keep taking pictures as you change the focus in small increments. You should end up with 5 to 10 pictures with different parts of the meteorite in focus. Open photoshop and the go FileScriptsLoad Files into Stack... Select all of the photos and be sure to check the box that says Attem pt To Automatically Align Source Images. Select ok and let photoshop align the images. Then go under the tab Window and make sure Layers has a check next to it. The layers box should be on the right side of your screen. All the pictures will be listed under layers. Select them all. You can do this by holding ctrl key and clicking each one or click the first, then holding shift as you click the last. Once they are all selected go to the Edit tab and select Autoblend layers and choose to autblend them as a stack. Once it is done blending you need to click Save as and save it as a Jpeg because it will try to save it as something else. Then close out of the image in photo shop, if it asks you if you want to save click NO. Then you can open up the jpeg version you saved and edit it how you like (brightness/contrast etc..) or leave it as is. Here is an example i made with only 5 pictures blended: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/phxerik/?action=view¤t=blended.jpg The fourth thing is highlight tone priority. You can enable this in your custom functions for canon shooters. I know Nikon has the setting but I don't know what it's called. This setting will make sure that your picture's highlights will not be blown out. It also allows your processor to use all its bits. My camera's have 14bit processors but if Highlight tone priority is off the image only processes at 10 bits. When i use HTP and get the full 14bits, this allows my picture to smooth out the changes in light to dark in my photos. This makes everything shaded better, especially clouds! The fourth and last thing is HDR photography(High Dynamic Range). You do not need a SLR to do this. Most point and shoot cameras can do this too! Sometimes a picture can be too dark in one part and too light in another. If you take one picture over exposed, one under exposed, and one properly exposed and blend them together it will allow all parts of your picture to be properly exposed.
Re: [meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography (Must read!)
Nice Photos Matteo...I'm envious. GeoZay __ Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html Meteorite-list mailing list Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Dear List,just a brief question concerning scale-reference objects used in specimen photography.Zapping through meteorite gallerys and catalogues one comes across the strangest objects used in order to give a referenceon the size of meteorites. Recourcefulness reaches fromcamel skullsto smoking cigars. Beside this ingenuity Im particularly interested tolearn about the small black cubes which I find very suitable fordetailed documentation.Is it a metric scale or do they represent an inch? What do the engraved alphabetic characters stand for? Are these objects some kind of alienated tokens that usuallyserve in a scrabble-like board game environment? And is ityet imagineable to purchase such o! bject of desire, even overseas??? Please excuse the somewhat trivial subject but I would truly be thankful if someone could initiate me into the circle of the "knowing".regardsSvendwww.niger-meteorite-recon.de[EMAIL PROTECTED]IMCA 6540 __38xTestsieger - WEB.DE FreeMail - Deutschlands beste E-Mailmacht E-Mail schreiben zum Erlebnis! http://f.web.de/?mc=021127 __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Svend and others, I would believe most are centimeter cubes. 10 millimeters in a cube...2.57 cubes in an inch, etc. John __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Hello All, I believe those nice little centimeter cubes can be attainedfrom Bob Verish. Thanks, TomPeregrineflier The proudest member of the IMCA 6168 - Original Message - From: Svend Buhl To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 3:35 AM Subject: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales Dear List, just a brief question concerning scale-reference objects used in specimen photography.Zapping through meteorite gallerys and catalogues one comes across the strangest objects used in order to give a referenceon the size of meteorites. Recourcefulness reaches fromcamel skullsto smoking cigars. Beside this ingenuity Im particularly interested tolearn about the small black cubes which I find very suitable fordetailed documentation.Is it a metric scale or do they represent an inch? What do the engraved alphabetic characters stand for? Are these objects some kind of alienated tokens that usuallyserve in a scrabble-like board game environment? And is ityet imagineable to purchase such o! bject of desire, even overseas??? Please excuse the somewhat trivial subject but I would truly be thankful if someone could initiate me into the circle of the "knowing". regards Svend www.niger-meteorite-recon.de [EMAIL PROTECTED] IMCA 6540 __38xTestsieger - WEB.DE FreeMail - Deutschlands beste E-Mailmacht E-Mail schreiben zum Erlebnis! http://f.web.de/?mc=021127 __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Personally.I prefer the black/white centimeter scaled strips used as opposed to the cubes. Seeing one of the scales in front of a whole specimen or slice, gives me a better perspective of the true size of the specimen. I've toyed around with making one of these scales using MS Exceljust play around with setting the cell size in a row to the proper height x width, and black-fill every other cell. And while it certainly would be nice to see some type of standardization in how everyone displays their specimens, the imagination used by some people is certainly enjoyable. Craig __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Svend and others, 2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm per inch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer, John Svend and others, I would believe most are centimeter cubes. 10 millimeters in a cube...2.57 cubes in an inch, etc. John __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
on 9/5/03 2:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Svend and others, 2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm per inch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer, John still got it wrong. I may not know per inch, but it is TEN mm per cm not 25.4 Michael __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Ah..good job Michael you passed the test...and you wanta meet my wife... Morgan Fairchild...ya that's it. Sheesh...I better stop now. Thanx guys for keeping me down and out...pass me the bottle, JD on 9/5/03 2:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Svend and others, 2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm per inch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer, John still got it wrong. I may not know per inch, but it is TEN mm per cm not 25.4 Michael __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
perhaps something like this; 1 cm = 10 mm = 0.393700786 inch 1 inch = 2.54 cm = 25.4 mm so, 2.54 x 0.393700786 = 0.997 pekka s Michael L Blood wrote: on 9/5/03 2:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Svend and others,2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm perinch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer,John still got it wrong. I may not know per inch, but it isTEN mm per cm not 25.4Michael__Meteorite-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list -- Pekka Savolainen Jokiharjuntie 4 FIN-71330 Rasala FINLAND + 358 400 818 912 Group Home Page: http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/eurocoin Group Email Address: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Come on, JD, you're on a roll. on 9/5/03 2:35 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ah..good job Michael you passed the test...and you wanta meet my wife... Morgan Fairchild...ya that's it. Sheesh...I better stop now. Thanx guys for keeping me down and out...pass me the bottle, JD on 9/5/03 2:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Svend and others, 2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm per inch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer, John still got it wrong. I may not know per inch, but it is TEN mm per cm not 25.4 Michael __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. Philip K. Dick -- SUPPORT OUR TROUPS: http://www.takebackthemedia.com/onearmy.html -- Worth Seeing: - Earth at night from satellite: http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/image/0011/earthlights_dmsp_big.jpg - Interactive Lady Liberty: http://doody36.home.attbi.com/liberty.htm - Earth - variety of choices: http://www.fourmilab.ch/earthview/vplanet.html -- Panoramic view of Meteor Crater: http://www.virtualguidebooks.com/Arizona/GrandCanyonRoute66/MeteorCrater/Met eorCraterRimL.html -- Cool Calendar Clock: http://www.yugop.com/ver3/stuff/03/fla.html -- Michael Blood Meteorites Didgeridoos for sale at: http://www.michaelbloodmeteorites.com/ __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Guys, Just try google: mm to inch or cm to inch or whatever you want (even nm to inch is working). Sergey Ah..good job Michael you passed the test...and you wanta meet my wife... Morgan Fairchild...ya that's it. Sheesh...I better stop now. Thanx guys for keeping me down and out...pass me the bottle, JD on 9/5/03 2:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Svend and others, 2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm per inch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer, John still got it wrong. I may not know per inch, but it is TEN mm per cm not 25.4 Michael __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] RE: (meteorite-list) meteorite photography scales.
Greetings all brand new collector here Advice from another dumb engineer but why not just get a small ruler with metric on one side and US standard on other and use it? Or as a second idea get a small flat piece of wood that is rectangular, measure out cm notches on it and paint it alternately black and white? Personnally I would go with the ruler, but I am just another high IQ, low common sense engineer (as my wife tells me). James Carroll Carroll Family [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [meteorite-list] meteorite photography scales
Dear List; Well, to coin the most popular song on the country chartsIt's five o'clock some where...! Dave F. :-) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ah..good job Michael you passed the test...and you wanta meet my wife... Morgan Fairchild...ya that's it. Sheesh...I better stop now. Thanx guys for keeping me down and out...pass me the bottle, JD on 9/5/03 2:11 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Svend and others, 2.57 I must not have been awake. It is 25.4 mm per cm and 2.54 cm per inch. From the so-called Professional Mechanical Engineer, John still got it wrong. I may not know per inch, but it is TEN mm per cm not 25.4 Michael __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
[meteorite-list] Meteorite Photography - Imilac (cont'd)
Greetings Listees: I've been very lax with my weekly meteorite photographs recently, as a result of visits to the Denver, CO and Franklin, NJ shows. I'll try to get back into the swing of it : ) Here is another Imilac photo: http://www.notkin.net/temp/imilac-2.htm More on the way. Regards, Geoff N. __ Meteorite-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list
