just thought I'd mention that!
Nick
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I want to build a four digit VFD clock (three of them actually) without
using drivers like the max6921. I have two possibilities at this moment,
one is this http://i.imgur.com/D4FGaV1.jpg and the other being this
one http://i.imgur.com/5fMc7ty.png . Which would be best?
Another question is the
Thank you for your reply, sadly the HV5812 is SMD and I am going to do this
on simple strip/hole PCBs. But you are using two tubes in series on 5 volt
so that leaves about 2 volts for the resistor. My plan is to hook them all
up in series (4 tubes) so I require 6 volts which can be delivered by
Hi Gideon-
I believe the HV5812 is still available in a PDIP package:
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/supertex-hv5812p.html?p=12648889
On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Gideon Wackers
gideon.wack...@student.uhasselt.be wrote:
HV5812
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Yeah but that would cost me 50 dollar in shipping :( (to the netherlands).
What about my driver circuit on soms transistor array, driving 35 volt
should not be that much of a problem?
Op dinsdag 19 november 2013 15:56:58 UTC+1 schreef William Lee:
Hi Gideon-
I believe the HV5812 is still
Slight update:
I just found a local retailler (mouser) which also sells them, but 20
euro in shipping costs... That is more than what a dozen of tubes is going
to cost me.
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What is this? Has anybody seen tube like this before? It looks very
interesting!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-UNIC-ULTRA-RARE-IN37-NIXIE-SHADOW-MASK-TUBE-DIGITS-IN37-USSR-/261333956957
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I've seen similar, with digits 0-9. I'm not sure why this unit is 1-6
because you could not even use it for a clock;
must have been a special application.
I've always wondered if anyone manufactured a dekatron (or in this case, a
hexatron ) in this manner.
I doubt these were very popular
interesting...I've had to do the opposite, when I put a later tank in an
older truck. Sounds like you're using a newer gauge in an older GM vehicle.
I would find a sending unit from a late 60s vehicle, and swap the resistor
onto the original sending unit. It's not very difficult.
Jim
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Only on longer tubes will you truly notice gradient so you might see it if you
do 4 or 6 in a series.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 19, 2013, at 8:42 AM, Gideon Wackers
gideon.wack...@student.uhasselt.be wrote:
Thank you for your reply, sadly the HV5812 is SMD and I am going to do this
on
I know the difference between a nixie and a VFD tube but I have to say that
your explanation is very nice to summarize all the loose bits of
information in my head.
So If I have a 6 volt supply for my four filaments (in series) I would not
need a resistor. I think the 7806 won't get that warm
Yea, there are some pasive displays with numerals arranged like this, but
all of them have all the decimal digits as you said. The thing is, that
they do not count. I understand how it could be beneficial to close all the
numbers in one envelope if you have 10 of them, but with only 6 you could
Okay else I will just take one of those step down converters off ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-DC-DC-LM2596-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Adjustable-Converter-Module1-3V-35V-/130984321712?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item1e7f4622b0
For that price I can't go messing around with DC-DC converters myself
Yikes that is quite an amount of money for an odd tube, I do understand
buying something because it is special but that sounds a bit over the top.
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Exactly, and i think that if you would want to buy it only for its
unctionality, not for the historic value. Dalibor could make it chaper :)
On Tuesday, 19 November 2013 20:44:44 UTC+1, Gideon Wackers wrote:
Yikes that is quite an amount of money for an odd tube, I do understand
buying
Do any of you use some sort of protection circuit for the filaments?
I just use a higher voltage supply and a series resistor. That way, the
difference in current between a cold filament and a hot one is less, so the
starting surge is minimized. It's less efficient than just driving the
Yeah I think I'll go for a
Op dinsdag 19 november 2013 21:07:42 UTC+1 schreef jrehwin:
Do any of you use some sort of protection circuit for the filaments?
I just use a higher voltage supply and a series resistor. That way, the
difference in current between a cold filament and a hot one
Yeah I was just thinking of wiring two filaments in series and feeding them
with a 7805, that means a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor. That way I'll have the
best of both worlds; minimal gradient effect, easy DC and resistor
protection
So now I only have to figure out wether my two transistor driver is
So now I only have to figure out wether my two transistor driver is a good
way to drive my IV-11 tubes :)
I was hoping someone more versed in the intricacies of transistors would
address this, but they haven't, so I'll take a stab at it.
I want to build a four digit VFD clock (three of them
It is too small for me, I would not be able to make it ;-) Too delicate work ;-)
2013/11/19 kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com:
Exactly, and i think that if you would want to buy it only for its
unctionality, not for the historic value. Dalibor could make it chaper :)
On Tuesday, 19 November 2013
Thank you very much for this reply, I'll just order a few values and see
what works.
But I am missing one thing to complete the story; why are current values
given in the datasheet if there is no need for current regulation? or
should those be seen as normal values that you will see during
On 11/19/2013 1:36 PM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
I want to build a four digit VFD clock (three of them actually) without using
drivers like the max6921. I have two possibilities at this moment, one is this
http://i.imgur.com/D4FGaV1.jpg
and the other being this one http://i.imgur.com/5fMc7ty.png .
I'd use the more traditional design with a resistor in series with the base
of the NPN transistor driven by the CPU, rather than the emitter resistor as
you showed.
David has a point - the disadvantage is it uses one more resistor, the (large)
advantage is the functions are now separated -
http://i.imgur.com/CFTb8gI.png
is this what you mean?
Eagle was being weird today so I had to draw it in lochmaster
Why is that better than the original two ideas? I would like to understand
everything :)
Op dinsdag 19 november 2013 21:48:18 UTC+1 schreef nixiebunny:
On 11/19/2013 1:36 PM,
I was typing the previous reply while you posted it, that clears some
things up.
You mention tweaking the value, is there a way to actually calculate it?
(I'm not that much into transistor calculations as you may have noticed)
Op dinsdag 19 november 2013 22:06:16 UTC+1 schreef jrehwin:
I'd
FYI David:
On the clock that I built with IV-11 tubes, I initially started with
an anode voltage of 60v; which is the median multiplexed voltage as per
this datasheet: http://www.tromop.eu/cms/media/IV-11%20datasheet.pdf and
a 1/6 duty cycle (16.67%). That clock was bright. Couldn't sleep in
Hi Gideon,
How many of these clocks are you planning to build? If it is just a
few, then I wouldn't sweat the costs too much. Both of those companies
(used to be - I assume still) are very generous with samples. I agree
that the Supertex and Maxim parts can be difficult to obtain for a low
I'm going to make three clocks (Christmas presents for girlfriend, brother
and sister), but I'll see if I can get samples approved with my university
email. Thank you for your generous offer to send me some samples but I'll
first try to get my own samples at a reasonable price.
Op dinsdag 19
Does anyone know whether it is a bad idea to go below the recommended
multiplexing voltage as mentioned in Adams comment??
Op dinsdag 19 november 2013 23:01:33 UTC+1 schreef Adam Jacobs:
FYI David:
On the clock that I built with IV-11 tubes, I initially started with
an anode voltage of
Mine run from 18v low brightness to 35v for full brightness for the last 3
years and have had no issues.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 19, 2013, at 4:16 PM, Gideon Wackers
gideon.wack...@student.uhasselt.be wrote:
Does anyone know whether it is a bad idea to go below the recommended
Does anyone know whether it is a bad idea to go below the recommended
multiplexing voltage as mentioned in Adams comment??
It won't damage the VFD or anything, but it slows down the electrons, so you
could get ghosting while multiplexing. I'm guessing the numbers in the
datasheet are to
If there is one thing I like it is an answer like that :)
I tried to request three samples of the supertex drivers, we'll see if they
grant me some.
Thank you all for the comments, suggestions and solutions up to this point.
I got more (practical) answers here in less than 24 hours than two
Hi, Ok I tired your method and it worked. I ended up needing around 24 ohms.
The only concern I have is that the resistor runs a bit warm and it's a 20
watt. (Actually two 50 ohm, 10 watt resistors in parallel) I measured the
voltage drop across them and got 9.6 volts. (taken with the
Phil,
Contact me off list.
Cheers,
Nick
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 19, 2013, at 16:32, Philip Pemberton phil...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi there,
I'm trying to fix up an OZ2CPU Nixie clock kit a friend built. Sadly one
of the КМ155ИД1 (KM155ID1) driver chips is missing, and one of the
On 13-11-19 12:46 PM, J Forbes wrote:
Sounds like you're using a newer gauge in an older GM
vehicle. I would find a sending unit from a late 60s vehicle, and swap
the resistor onto the original sending unit. It's not very difficult.
Only trick is the original poster has rejected this
The original gauge, for use with the 30 ohm sender (from a 57 Chevy) has a
resistance from sender wire to ground of 200 ohms, and from sender to power
of 50 ohms.
On Tuesday, November 19, 2013 3:49:44 PM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote:
Unfortunately, without knowing the gauge resistance it's supposed
The original gauge, for use with the 30 ohm sender (from a 57 Chevy) has a
resistance from sender wire to ground of 200 ohms, and from sender to power
of 50 ohms.
Oho! Apparently these gauges are a little more involved than the 2-wire kind
I'm used to:
Two electromagnets.
On Tuesday, November 19, 2013 9:25:57 PM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote:
Anybody know what's in the 3-wire gauges?
- John
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$250 for a pixie-tube seems a bit steep, doesn't it?
//c
19 nov 2013 kl. 16:52 skrev kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com:
What is this? Has anybody seen tube like this before? It looks very
interesting!
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