Hello guys,
thank You for nice post,
I am working pretty hard to bring back the nixie manufacture.
Actually, I bet my living on it, working on it full time. I am close
to a small scale production, if You are interested in news, just watch
my facebook pages (https://www.facebook.com/daliborfarnyco
Wow, dug into that link deeper. Is that guy going to plan on start selling
those tubes he makes?
Thanks,
-Darin
On Monday, June 9, 2014 7:12:08 PM UTC-5, William Lee wrote:
>
> That's because they are actually newly created, which is pretty amazing!
> On Jun 9, 2014 8:02 PM, "Dman777" >
> wrot
What about sandblasting the standard issue one? It works well and if done
with glass micro-pearls will give you a nice and even matte effect.
Gastón
On Monday, June 9, 2014 1:36:16 AM UTC-3, Dman777 wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Does anyone know of a frosted metal case that would fit the clock kits
> in
I'm in for 2 sets, you can keep the other set. email me direct.
On Sunday, June 8, 2014 10:12:39 AM UTC-4, Tobias wrote:
>
> Anyone interested on a similar group buy in the US? I would need only one
> of each board. And I live in NJ.
>
> Tobias
>
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You received this message because you are sub
That's because they are actually newly created, which is pretty amazing!
On Jun 9, 2014 8:02 PM, "Dman777" wrote:
Wow, the DF-LS-10 are incredible! They look in perfect new condition also.
-Darin
On Monday, June 9, 2014 5:18:01 PM UTC-5, Jens Boos wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> long time no see, but
Wow, the DF-LS-10 are incredible! They look in perfect new condition also.
-Darin
On Monday, June 9, 2014 5:18:01 PM UTC-5, Jens Boos wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> long time no see, but I finally had some time to take some pictures of
> some pretty neat tubes!
>
> DF-LS-10: Dalibor's AMAZING lab s
Hi folks,
long time no see, but I finally had some time to take some pictures of
some pretty neat tubes!
DF-LS-10: Dalibor's AMAZING lab sample, Z5680M style. I repeat, AMAZING!
http://www.jb-electronics.de/html/elektronik/nixies/n_dfls10.htm?lang=en
IN-23, IN-30: super rare Russian alpha
Let me clarify, you'll have to get your ear pretty darn close to the clock
to hear it! (I have quite a few of Pete's LTC clocks in home made cases and
I need to be in a *very* quiet room to hear anything, it's not an issue at
all.). Dieter's blue dream clock is direct drive, but that's for IN-18
tu
Ah...ok. What would be my options for a clock kit for Z5660M tubes?
Thanks,
-Darin
On Monday, June 9, 2014 2:29:27 PM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> If you're that sensitive to high freq then I'd avoid a multiplexed design
> like the PVelectronics clock as on occasion you can hear a very tiny
>
If you're that sensitive to high freq then I'd avoid a multiplexed design
like the PVelectronics clock as on occasion you can hear a very tiny
audible 'whine' from the HV. Find a direct drive design and you should be
fine.
HTH
Nick
On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 12:18 PM, Dman777 wrote:
> Hi,
> I am
IR will do nothing. The energy per photon is to low.
However, UV contains more energy per photon an even more the shorter the
wave length is.
An ordinary ('blacklight') LED is insufficient in case of hard ignition.
Better to het short wave UV LEDs. Disadvantage is that the price raises
exponential
Hi,
I am about to pull the trigger and but this clock
kit
http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=68.
However, there is one thing I wanted ask and clear up, please...
I am sensitive to high pitch electronic noise...the kind that come from
CRT/Plasm
Hi, I’ve been designing and building Nixie’s clocks since 1970. The first
one has been launched in 1973 and is still up and running. One of my recent
clocks is combination of Nixies (ZM 1040) and dekatrons (Z504S) driven by
PICAXE chips with brightness control, alarms, chimes and WWVB
synchro
More recently, a posting about the details of handling Kr doped tubes...
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/WutNWZBDMAo/WVOJ-VmwNBoJ
The tubes had 0.5 μCi (micro-Curies) of 85Kr (half-life is 10.7 years) - a
tiny amount. Generally, 1milli-Curie ingested will be fatal - so that's
about 2
Thanks, I understand. Well I don't have a very high voltage in the Clocks...
but it is a method - yes.
Dieter
- Original Message -
From: "David Forbes"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2014 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Question on Z5660M Tubes- What kind of gas and age
survival?
Dieter,
Another idea is to use a decimal point, if the tube has one, as a
secondary anode for a very high voltage trigger pulse. This would work
similar to the xenon flash tubes in cameras.
On 6/9/14 8:56 AM, Dieter Waechter wrote:
You all surely know the problem, that if a standard Nixie t
Thank you David,
At my clocks with blue floor lighting the blue LEDs are on, but tubes stay
off.
So blue LEDs do not help I think (I remember the electron volts are too low,
am I right?)
I think I have some IR-LEDs laying around and test that this night to see
what happens.
Dieter
- Orig
Dieter,
It needs a trigger event to start some ionization. I think that a blue
or UV LED will do the trick. Have not tried this myself.
On 6/9/14 8:56 AM, Dieter Waechter wrote:
You all surely know the problem, that if a standard Nixie tube is off for a
longer time, say 1 hour, and switched
More recently, a posting about the details of handling Kr doped tubes...
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/WutNWZBDMAo/WVOJ-VmwNBoJ
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To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails
You all surely know the problem, that if a standard Nixie tube is off for a
longer time, say 1 hour, and switched on at night, it takes some time (0.1 ...
3 seconds) until the glowing comes up.
Does anyone know a method to speed up the ignition in this condition?
I have found out that:
- higher v
> Does anyone know of a frosted metal case that would fit the clock kits in
> this picture? I would like frosted metal instead of shiny. It would got
> better with my decor.
Another approach would be the way a lot of "frosted" or "etched" glass is done
these days, by applying clear adhesive f
> I don't think there would be any need to add helium, hydrogen, or even
> krypton-85 to *indicator* tubes.
Helium and hydrogen no, but some 5092s had Kr85 for rapid ionization for
multiplexed use. Discussion on this list from 2010:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/neonixie-l/cKkyRyaGOGI
On Monday, 9 June 2014 16:14:31 UTC+1, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> As a chemist, I would not advocate using HF unless you've got the
> appropriate equipment/training..;-) It'll eat your bones...literally. As
> for nitric acid, that's not a novice friendly substance either. Pete's
> stainless steel cas
As a chemist, I would not advocate using HF unless you've got the
appropriate equipment/training..;-) It'll eat your bones...literally. As
for nitric acid, that's not a novice friendly substance either. Pete's
stainless steel case is nice, but if you want a matte look, find a local
metalwork/fabric
...should have added that if you are in a really humid atmosphere, you may
need to re-passivate the stainless steel with some Nitric Acid - Google for
the method - basically, SS doesn't corrode largely because it has a layer
of CrO2 on its surface - when made, the SS is completely de-greased and
I would suggest getting a piece of ali from a hardware store and
practicing the technique before starting on the real thing..
Grahame
On 09/06/2014 14:57, JohnK wrote:
Steel wool is good too - especially for rounded/curved surfaces. Needs
extra care at the start and lift-off points; a bit o
I don't think there would be any need to add helium, hydrogen, or even
krypton-85 to *indicator* tubes.
The reason those gases were used in dekatrons or trigger tubes was to get
more speed or reliable triggering, which of course is not needed at all in
indicator tube.
Also the mixture in volta
Steel wool is good too - especially for rounded/curved surfaces. Needs extra
care at the start and lift-off points; a bit of practice fixes that.
I am not keen on the finish produced by steel wool in a drill press giving lots
of 'brushed' circular areas.
John K.
- Original Message -
Its not called "frosted" - the standard term is "brushed".
Easy to do. Take off the current shiny case. Get some fine "wet and dry"
paper (stuff that is waterproof), a block of cork or other wood about 3" x
2" with rounded edges and some light mineral lubricating oil (like
"3-in-1").
Wrap some
Can you not just go over it with a bit of sandpaper?
That would give you a more matt effect.
Cheers,
Paul
On Monday, 9 June 2014 05:36:16 UTC+1, Dman777 wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Does anyone know of a frosted metal case that would fit the clock kits
> in this picture? I would like frosted metal ins
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