Thanks to everyone who responded.It seems that the half wave diode trick is
the way to go. Clocks using real nixies of course start instantly when the
PIR triggers and you sort of expect that from other clocks too. The CRT is
a 7ABP7A and they are not too hard to find. I think I have a spare
I found some more pictures and restoration information
here: http://www.gloeidraad.nl/radioforum/index.php?id=177352
/Martin
On Friday, 8 August 2014 08:51:43 UTC+2, threeneurons wrote:
Here's the link to a youtube video of an Anita MK8 calculator that was
just restored:
Hi people!,
Thanks to whoever approved my group joining request :)
I own a few tubes, the IN-1 and the IN-9. Never powered a nixie device
before, I'm building a switch mode boost converter and I have a few
questions please! I understand the IN-1 needs about 170v to light up and
about 133v to
I dont recommend the IN-1; it's a low-quality tube. See my other postings
about it.
You should think of nixie tubes as current-controlled devices; it requires
a certain amount of current to produce the desired brightness. As with any
device, you dont want to exceed the maximum recommended
Hi,
'Alaba Baju' via neonixie-l wrote:
I understand the IN-1 needs about 170v to light up and about 133v to
stay on. One thing I've noticed though is that most people only seem
to build switching supplies for the higher voltage. I don't
understand!
The higher voltage (ionization voltage) is
I had a brain-meltdown and didn't realize you were making a
battery-operated device.
The wristwatch I'm working on right now has a DC-DC converter (flyback
converter) that boosts 3.7V to about 180V to ionize my display, and then
throttle-back to around 140 to 160V to save some battery energy.
Thanks a LOT Anne! I'm finally understanding that it's sort of like an LED!
To test if I understand it properly, would I be correct if I simply connect
the nixies to 180v and use a BJT current limiter to limit the current to
2mA?
On Monday, 11 August 2014 22:06:57 UTC+1, Arne Rossius wrote:
On Monday, 11 August 2014 22:26:30 UTC+1, gregebert wrote:
I had a brain-meltdown and didn't realize you were making a
battery-operated device.
The wristwatch I'm working on right now has a DC-DC converter (flyback
converter) that boosts 3.7V to about 180V to ionize my display, and then
On 8/11/2014 2:46 PM, 'Alaba Baju' via neonixie-l wrote:
Thanks a LOT Anne! I'm finally understanding that it's sort of like an LED!
To test if I understand it properly, would I be correct if I simply connect
the nixies to 180v and use a BJT current limiter to limit the current to
2mA?
It
Thanks a LOT Anne! I'm finally understanding that it's sort of like an
LED! To test if I understand it properly, would I be correct if I simply
connect the nixies to 180v and use a BJT current limiter to limit the
current to 2mA
Yes, I would recommend that. Make sure your NPN is rated
For the most part, I've only seen a single small blue dot when a tube has
been in-storage for a long time, perhaps years. For example, after I buy a
few tubes one may have a blue dot. They always disappeared after a few
hours of operation.
I do have 2 other tubes that have a very small
No blue dot...this is a very small blue glow similar to a bottom of a
flame it outlines the nixie wire that glows orange. It's only on the
tubes that are effected from the strobe issue I mentioned earlier.
On Monday, August 11, 2014 6:33:39 PM UTC-5, Dman777 wrote:
My In-12 Nixie clock
That purple glow or haze is a result of the mercury that is put in Nixie
tubes to make them live longer. It is normal.
On 8/11/14 10:46 PM, Dman777 wrote:
No blue dot...this is a very small blue glow similar to a bottom of a
flame it outlines the nixie wire that glows orange. It's only on
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