Thanks for the response, yes a very ingenious mechanism indeed! Not wanting
to be defeated by my clock; I completely disassembled again last night and
cleaned everything again and added a little grease to the mechanical
(plastic) components in an attempt to reduce the friction, all the
Hi Ali,
Sorry for late reply but I tried to find out what lubricants could be used
that would not dissolve the plastic parts, however I have not found any
definite answer. In my clock I removed the extra lubricant that was smeared
across the plastic and put in a small cup and then re-used it
On the subject of lubricating plastics...
Nylon expands if it absorbs oils and greases [mineral vs vegetable ? i didn't
check]. This means that certain nylon assemblies can bind.
The usual lubricant seen on plastic gears is a grease with a filler ... like
the white grease used on curtain tracks
Sweet !
Well, Grahame, it looks like you're the only guy who has made two of these
puppies !
Mine is sadly, still just a pile of unfinished paper work.
On Monday, October 6, 2014 7:09:38 AM UTC-7, Sgitheach wrote:
Hi
I have been working on a new trigger tube clock that uses the Z700U
On 07/10/2014 17:12, 'threeneurons' via neonixie-l wrote:
... and this one actually works through the night! The other is now
being robbed for parts.
Here's a very rough video of the very rough board test build on a sheet
of mdf.
http://www.sgitheach.org.uk/rough.wmv
Aluminium and
Martin, Thanks for the response. Unfortunately my handiwork on the clock
has not lasted and it is stuck in the 4pm hour now rotating round the 10
minutes blocks.
The clock is a 12 hour version. I will disassemble again and get some more
pictures at some point.
I will hopefully try and get
... and this one actually works through the night! The other is now being
robbed for parts.
Here's a very rough video of the very rough board test build on a sheet of
mdf.
http://www.sgitheach.org.uk/rough.wmv
That is mesmerizing to watch! Circuitry you can see operating always
I've always used a silicon spray on plastics, but NEVER applied it
directly via the spray can, for fear of what the propellant might do to
the plastic parts. I apply the spray to a Q-Tip, then apply the Q-Tip
where I want the silicon to go. Never had a problem doing it that way.
Ira.
I use teflon grease on plastic parts with no problems.Jonathan Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com wrote:Hi Ali,Sorry for late reply but I tried to find out what lubricants could be used that would not dissolve the plastic parts, however I have not found any definite answer. In my clock I removed
I want to place a fan underneath the clock to draw out this hot air, otherwise
the life of the clock will not be as long as it will without the heat.
Hot air 'rises' ie is pushed up by denser air. Pulling hot air down is not as
effective as helping it go 'up'.
AND, wherever you are moving
I will drill some small holes for cool air intake on the sides and on
top.
The fan will be drawing out air from the bottom. I won't change that. With
the heat dispersed, it will not be issue as it is in one concentrated spot.
I am more concerned with the questions I have in mind from
Darin, the clock may get a little warm, but I think you may be worrying
overtly. The holes under the case allow air to circulate up and
through/around the PCB and out the holes around the tubes by convection. If
you do plan on adding a fan (I don't think this is necessary, but hey it's
a free
Have you contacted Peter (PV Electronics) about the heat issue? I have used I
think three of his kits, and I have not noticed anything getting particularly
hot. The first clock I built has been in operation for over a year now, and if
the clock were to go down, I am sure my daughter would be
Yes, I do not want to give the wrong impression. There is nothing wrong
with the clock at all, it's a excellent clock with 100% A++ craftmanship. I
am very happy with it. The heat is from it's native design using voltage
regulation. I want to be proactive and use a fan to extend the life of it.
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