If you are looking to buy a Nixie clock with bright tubes with clear digits
then you really have to look at the bigger tubes such as Z566M, Z5660M,
ZM1040 and as you mentioned, IN-18. These tubes give exceptional clarity in
their displays but as you pointed out, they are expensive as a ready bui
In this member response: “Buying (enjoy it now) vs building (it will take about
1 year, and a lot of your time) can be a tough decision.” I think that the
term “building” is maybe meaning to design. You can buy a kit that can be
built in several hours with great results...
From: neon
Considering the prices of IN-18's these days, if you can get an assembled
6-tube clock for 500 USD, it sounds reasonable to me.
I wont confess how much I've spent completing 4 nixie clock designs the
past 6 years, but to give you a rough idea each run for a PCB is at least
$100 ($300 for a larg
Keith,
Photo editing and a dark background can make anything look spectacular. The
IN-18 is a nice looking tube that is still in some supply. Having said that,
the price of tubes in the open market is $40-$60 each on ebay, so if there is
already $250-$350 tied up in just the tubes, use tha
Consider that a set of IN18 tubes alone will set you back at least 300 dollars
or thereabouts, then 500 for a completed clock is more than reasonable price I
think.they are not cheap tubes anymore alas...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 10, 2017, at 11:55, 'Terry S' via neonixie-l
> wrote:
>
Brightness is a trade off with tube life, so consider that before you look
for the brightest clock. Does it need to be visible in direct sunlight?
Why does it need to be so bright?
This particular clock looks like it direct drive, non multiplexed, so
chances are it is bright enough. But don't tr
I am wanting to purchase a nixie tube clock already built but I would like
to get one that has the most brightness. I was looking at in-18 size nixie
tubes. When looking at some the brightness is not that bright. So far I
found this one to be a brightest unless it's just Photoshop or because the
Here is a copy of the BOM
On Tuesday, March 7, 2017 at 6:37:54 PM UTC-6, dave@comcast.net wrote:
>
> I'm hoping that someone out there can help me with a problem that I am
> having with a Taylor Edge clock kit that I built. After completing the kit
> and plugging it in it seemed to be workin
Take a close look at the signal amplitudes (best to use a scope); if the
resistor values are causing the logic gates to be overloaded [either due to
wrong IC, wrong logic family, wrong resistor value, solder short/open] ,
you will see incorrect levels. Generally, logic-0 will be 200mV or less
(
OK, so now I looked at the schematic you posted [it is a slightly changed TI ap
it seems].
I took it at face value that the BOM was correct, but I don't see one in that
pdf you attached.
The schematic uses 7400 series.
There are "Changes to original..." at top left of sheet 4.
In those changes
What happens if you set all three time switches and the halt/set switch in
the SET position and then push the INCR button, do all counters advance one
step each so that they count properly or do soem still count in the strange
sequence?
I would also make sure that VCC and GND are present on all
Hi I am new here but have been a fan of nixies for a while now and as such
I have been trawling the net looking for a decent clock
kit. threeneurons one seems to fit the bill but on his site, I haven't seen
mention of cathode poisoning prevention I was wondering if it does and
wasnt mentioned o
Just wanted to update everyone on where we are at on this project. One of
the first things that my friend Mike questioned was why are we using 74LS
series instead of 7400. I have order new ICs for everything except the
141s. Here is the last update that I received from him.
Ok, did some qui
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