For aluminum, I just put 320 grit sandpaper on my electric vibrator (not
*THAT* kind of vibrator...) and it leaves a nice swirly pattern. It's very
easy to find surface imperfections by the blurry ring around them, so just
sand that area a bit more.
I dont leave bare metal exposed on frontal ar
I have had great luck using Scotch Brite Pads to give the brushed look on
aluminum, I find that wire brushes can leave deep scratches. On one
project I did, I used some Scotch Brite pads, and then used some flat clear
spray paint to keep the look.
As for a soldering station, I would just get a
Weller WESD51 is my favorite affordable soldering iron. I've done quite a
bit of surface-mount assembly with it; having the adjustable temp is nice.
And as the name implies, it's ESD-safe.
If you have extra money, by all means, get a Metcal. I used one about 25
years ago and I've never seen a b
The brushed aluminum (or stainless) effect can be achieved in a number of
ways -- I suggest you get samples of the material and try a few. A wire
brush is the obvious first choice. Try both steel and brass brushes. Also
try steel wool, 3M pads, and wet sanding with very fine paper. Each makes a
Thanks everyone for your comments and support on this project.
I have my sister visiting this week so will get back on it next Wednesday .
I do have a couple questions.
What inexpensive soldering station will work well for this kit? I have
soldered before so I have the skills but not the equipm
I think a good alternative with a license which won't cause any trouble is
KiCad.
I've used it for some time and it is far from great (comparing to Altium
Designer I use at work), but it certainly does the job, is not very awkward
to use and most importantly - as open source software the licens
Alot of companies use this licence model, like Microsoft Office.. and
mostly the limits are very very badly choosen...
Eagle had the hobbyist version along time before, but the space is very
limited. I'm still using Eagle 6, which still does all the things i need (i
have a student version from
No I hadn't seen that. It looks very useful. Thanks.
> On Aug 16, 2017, at 11:24 AM, Nick wrote:
>
>> On Wednesday, 16 August 2017 01:48:18 UTC+4, Paul Andrews wrote:
>> BTW the zipped model works fne.
>
> That's good - have you seen this article:
> http://www.linear.com/solutions/5788 ?
>
>
On Wednesday, 16 August 2017 01:48:18 UTC+4, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> BTW the zipped model works fne.
>
That's good - have you seen this article:
http://www.linear.com/solutions/5788 ?
Nick
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>
> It will be good to see what you come up with, Edward. Those tubes are
> incredible looking and will make any design stand out.
>
> I'm a pen and paper guy too although half the time I work straight from my
> head in creating casings for clocks built on Pete's kits. Don't always get
> it
On Wednesday, 16 August 2017 11:54:51 UTC+4, Mitch wrote:
>
> Nick, it is very easy to use. Once the profile is set for the paste you
> are using, just press start. I use a standard profile that I have never
> touched.
What's the quality of the boards like? Consistent? Any burns etc.?
Thanks
I still believe that the right technical decision is to go to CircuitMaker,
but lack of bandwidth to manage the transition means I just paid the money
to Autodesk for 1 year's Standard license - I used to be on Premium with
7.7.
I tried to buy the license out here in the UAE to avoid the scourg
Nick, it is very easy to use. Once the profile is set for the paste you are
using, just press start. I use a standard profile that I have never touched.
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