You mean the smaller Taylor supply won't fit??? I'd find a way to squeezed
John's in there. ;^}
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#1 Make sure you are purchasing new units from a reputable supplier; there
are fake parts out there that are poor quality. Never re-use salvaged
electrolytics.
#2 Heat will shorten the life of any electrolytic; it only takes a few
well-placed vent holes to keep things cool.
#3 Not all electrolyt
This is the Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor I had in mind in my suggestion earlier
in the thread, datasheet impedance looks suitable, and I suspect its life will
be much longer than an electrolytic. Even though it’s an SMD part, it should be
able to easily be soldered in place of the electro. I’m g
I used a Lelon (the new Xicon) 1uf 350V 85° C vs. the 1uf 250V that's
recommended.
On Saturday, April 6, 2019 at 6:59:51 PM UTC-7, Terry Bowman wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 6, 2019, at 9:36 PM, MichaelB >
> wrote:
>
> I used a higher voltage capacity electrolytic this time, maybe I’ll
> this'll give me
, not LED ones] use monolithic solid
> caps. One I fixed had only 2uF though iirc. A pity that opamp capacitor
> multipliers don’t store energy J .
>
>
>
> John K
>
> Australia
>
> *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> neoni...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behal
I've actually thought about wiring in a Taylor supply, but space is a bit
of an issue
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The short lifetime ratings of electrolytics have always worried me. 8,000
hours? That’s about 1 year, though that is at rated operating conditions. This
article discusses dressing of lifespan:
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/news/calculating-the-lifespan-of-electrolytic-capacitors-with-de-ratin
Couldn't you wire in a small HV PSU module instead, and bypass the
circuitry for that one?
Not sure that it would necessarily have a better lifespan (depending on who
made it...)
David
On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 05:31, MichaelB wrote:
> You've described my experience with this clock to a "T". If I
.
John K
Australia
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of MichaelB
Sent: Sunday, 7 April 2019 11:06
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Another Tube Hobby Failure
HI Nick,
I know you have mentioned that before, but I really don’t think
You've described my experience with this clock to a "T". If I hadn't made a
custom enclosure around these electronics and its 'unique' tube spacing, I
would abandon it in a heartbeat and substitute NixiChron electronics, but
this would basically require building a whole new enclosure. It was my
There's a number of anomalies here. The 7805 has no reverse bias diode and no
100n output cap to prevent oscillation (read the data sheet). Is the 7805
running hot? Some 7805 variants require these, some don't.
R6 has about 180V across it - is it rated for that? There may be RF oscillation
on t
I have one of these clocks too and it fails every three years or so on average.
It’s all down to C6. Sometimes just F1 fails and other times the inductor L1
goes short circuit as well.
The Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) of C6 goes through the roof, causing it
to effectively be a capacitor in
> On Apr 6, 2019, at 9:36 PM, MichaelB wrote:
>
> I used a higher voltage capacity electrolytic this time, maybe I’ll this'll
> give me another year or so :-).
Are you using 85°C or 105°C?
> and I will try your idea of adding a heat sink to the VREG, since heat seems
> to be the culprit her
HI Nick,
I know you have mentioned that before, but I really don’t think anything
else is wrong. As I said I have another one of these with 566M tubes and it
has worked flawlessly for 8+ years. Those electronics are in a similar
enclosure with less ventilation. And this is the second set of el
Something else is awry there Michael. I have a friend with a TubeHobby IN18
that i built for him that’s been running for well over 6 years now with no
issues. The only modification i ever made was putting an extra heatsink on the
regulator as what was there (board plane) didn’t seem sufficient t
This makes 4 times now this clock has failed over the past 10 years or so.
This is a stock clock with IN-18's. I have another set of these electronics
that has never failed, but then again, I had changed the tube board to
accommodate the Z566M tube. Different current demands? It has worked like
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