Sounds like you are going to wreck something!
I have a complete (16) tube text-scanning array built with B-7971 tubes.
It's direct drive.
-Original Message-
From: "David Pye"
Sent 1/22/2019 3:44:40 AM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Pulsed
Assuming the 170VDC supply is not adjustable, you can easily put another DC
supply in-series with it. There are a variety of small DCDC converters
available with isolated outputs; just connect the (-) output of the
converter to +170VDC, and power your nixies from the (+) output. A +24VDC
That makes sense to me.
I have been testing, as I say, with continuous current purely to get the
anode resistor value set
Even with the full 170VDC across the tube, the current is around 8mA. I
might decide this is acceptable enough from a brightness I want, but it
leaves no room for anode
I should add that using a higher voltage also reduces the time it takes for a
tube to light up,, which is probably why the datasheet recommends it.
> On Jan 22, 2019, at 6:34 AM, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> What is your pulse width and period? The brightness will be greatly affected
> by the on
What is your pulse width and period? The brightness will be greatly affected by
the on time of the pulse as it takes a while for the tube to turn on, meaning
it isn’t on for the whole of the pulse on-time.
You can decrease how long it takes the tube to light up by holding the unlit
cathodes at
Hi Greg,
Thanks!
I've made a number of direct drive designs before, and when trying to pass
a current of a couple of mA through one of the small tubes, I've used an
anode voltage of 170V, an anode current limiting resistor as calculated,
and had no problems achieving the current flow I want.
Welcome to the group; I assume no responsibility if you get addicted to
nixie tubes, and all sorts of vintage display devices.
Be very careful about how much current you pass thru a nixie; too much will
cause premature wearout and too-little can result in cathode poisoning.
Also, be aware that
