On Friday, January 4, 2013 11:06:35 PM UTC, zapro wrote:
You CANNOT blank the nixies with the 74141's you need to use anode
transistor or disable the PSU.
Actually it depends on the nixie and the '74141'. My experience is that
IN-12 blank just fine using the K155ID1 Russian version of 74141.
Hi guys,
I have been stock piling bar-graph tubes for a while now due to
their relatively cheap price and potential for interesting looking clocks
or other animated displays.
Due to a few being smashed in a recent shipment I decided to sit down and
work through testing all 450 or so IN-9's
Hi Alex
I've only used the IN13 (the one with the primer electrode) and they all
did as you described initially (despite the primer). I wrote the
microcontroller code to repeatedly sweep the tube current up and down
over about a second and left a batch of 8 running continuously. I think
it
Hi Alex,
First things first, I love IN-9 tubes and am in the process of making an
audio spectrum analyser with them. I have both the orange and violet
versions. My violet ones having the purple top and do illuminate with a
very purple glow :o) These tubes are trouble and very hard to make
Cheers for the replies guys, I suspect that with a bit of running in most
of the tubes I have labeled Slight poisoning will come right... It is
strange that your purple topped tubes are distinctly different from white
topped, maybe I got lucky with my white topped but I defiantly prefer the
That is very interesting that you are not using a SMPS and still having the
trouble. I have never tried the tubes with a full bridge only a half, I
wonder if the difference between 50Hz and 100Hz makes any difference, I
cant see why it would.
You say you have a large reservoir cap,
Given this extra information, your multiplexed design makes sense. As long as
you keep the Nixies physically distant from the amp input signals and tubes,
and give yourself the option of steel shielding if needed, you should be OK
with the Tayloredge supply and multiplexing.
One of my
I spent quite a bit of time with IN9 and IN13 making my one digit 7 segment
clock (http://youtu.be/mQ1567EFCY0). Someone was also asking about them
over on tubeclockdb.com, and this is how I summarised my experience there:
*My recollection is that a batch of neon IN-9 tubes would generally
Here is a link to the first VU-meter that I came across several years ago:
http://m.bareille.free.fr/vu-in13/vumeter_in13.htm#vu4301 ,I built a few of
the ones with the That2252 IC. It works very well and unlike other
people here on the forum I never had any problems with either IN-9 and
IN-13
That is exactly what I have done with the design I am working on. It makes
allot of difference.
Tim
One of my favourite tricks for this is to use optocouplers for anode
switches - they switch slowly (radiating fewer harmonics), and the level
shifting is done for you by a light beam.
-
Found this Omega OCC1 Master Clock on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110996199151
I have no connection to this listing.
Mark
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