I would try replacing C6 again with a known good part and leave the clock
out of it's case without the heat sink and see how it does. This is the
exact syndrome that mine exhibited twice on the one clock until I opened up
the case and dropped the voltage and replaced C6. Then add a heat sink
Well folks, I think I'm going to leave it like this for a while. I've
mounted a little 20mm fan to blow across U1 M1. The extraneous digits
lighting isn't significant enough to be an issue; I just assumed it had to
do with the over-heating.
I appreciate everyone's input. We'll see how long
Is it still exhibiting the same symptoms as in your video without the
heatsink?
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:12:39 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:
Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x
U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot. 109F now from the PCB
Niek,
I do have a scope, however I'd be lying if I said I knew how to use it. I
bought it used with the intention of learning how to use it, and it's sat
since then. You could probably say I know enough about electronics to be
dangerous. I know what resisters and capacitors and transistors
Glad removing the heatsink seemed to solved the issue.
It's interesting it has this behavior next to the blanked out tube: does it
have the same behavior when using 24 hour mode? (if it has such a mode, or
any other mode where it doesn't blank out any tubes). Blanking out a single
tube (of a
Be aware that higher temperatures will degrade electrolytic caps. I've seen
some postings about this clock getting warm.
I have seen 30-year-old electrolytic caps basically short-out internally; I
presume it was because they dried-out.
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Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x
U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot. 109F now from the PCB side.
It's hard to hit it on top because of the other PCB on top. But with the
heatsink gone nothing is anywhere near as hot as it was before. Really
Now after running it a short while, U1 is about 98F and M1 is 112F.
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Hmm, well, to me it seems a firmware issue with the timing: if it were the
drivers, then it would be random and probably more constant, not showing
the seconds. The reason you see the seconds in the 2nd to left tube is that
tube is driven by the same driver chip as the seconds (there are only
I didn't look closely when I mentioned about how to properly use heatsink
compound.
Was it hot before you added the heatsink?
Was it hotter after?
You pondered why the heatsink might make it hotter:-
Someone mentioned maybe glue conducting.
I mentioned the glue might insulate the heat.
Sorry, corrected link below. Phones are fun...
Kiran,
PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies
and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage
when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice
Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the
same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds.
I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two
driver chips I have in there now. With another pair, the left most tube
constantly
Niek,
Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of
hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly
in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18
tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board
for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so
On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Terry Kennedy wrote:
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were
partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was
that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so
Here is a direct link to PV Electronics Spectrum clock kit that uses the
IN-18 tubes:
http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=18products_id=157
Jeff W
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kiran Otter
Sent:
Could you have a faulty DS1307? Would that cause a timing issue?
Nick
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 28, 2015, at 15:23, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote:
Niek,
Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
though not as strongly. If I force it to
Hi folks, glad to find this group!
I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18
tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board
for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so
I thought I would ask here.
Careful with epoxying a heatsink on. A heatconducting paste [dangerous chemical
usually] OR a very thin layer of heatsink compound and a clip holding the
heatsink is probably better. How much does the epoxy impede the heat flow?
[and note I said very thin re the compound?Just enough to fill
I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix
has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to
keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design
of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed
Kiran,
Measure the input voltage to your clock. If voltage from your DC wall
adapter have risen 7805 regulator will go hot. Also high voltage to
Nixie tubes might also rise if input voltage to clock is too high.
Sture
Kiran Otter skrev den 2015-03-28 12:55:
Hi folks, glad to find this
I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that
the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is
adjustable, could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought.
Ron
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Hi
MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to? And I did replace C6. Could
I have a bad cap? I had a hell of a time finding just one; got it shipped
free from RS for for like a dollar.
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-4, MichaelB wrote:
I have had this same issue with 3 of
By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will
use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make.
Kiran
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I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).
He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does
have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used
are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your
Do you have a scope? Is the output of the 7805 still a clean 5V? How about
the output of the HV regulator? Can you measure the current going into the
clock? (with your multimeter)
I'd be a bit suprised if the cause is the driver chips, because after
replacing them it didn't seem to improve a
Around 165, can’t remember exactly, but enough so as not to sacrifice tube
brightness and yes you could have a bad cap.
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:49:05 AM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:
MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to? And I did replace C6. Could
I have a bad cap? I had
Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote:
I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).
He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does
have a few that use the big
Kiran,
PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies
and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage
when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature!
They also have a couple different cases available
You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you
a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't
see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it
fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you
One more thing: can you try completely removing that heatsink, and see if
it makes any difference? I designed my own nixie clock with a 7805 (also
3x2 multiplex), and it hardly gets warm at all (you can easily touch it),
without any heatsink. I'd just like to exclude this heatsink as a cause,
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