Re: [neonixie-l] Re: resistance of filament warm vs cold

2013-12-09 Thread Tomislav Kordaso
Enameled wire is pain to strip mechanically. Back in my school days we used
a pill of Aspirin and push the end of enameled wire shortly onto it with
hot solder iron. Aspirin would melt and eat away the enamel, easing the
tining process. Fumes are not nice to inhale, though.
@Gideon if you prefer protoboards, you can try kynar wire. A 30-gauge spool
of it is not expensive, strips off easily and solders even easier.

Tomislav


On 9 December 2013 02:44, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:

 Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only ever
 used it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the stuff. Dipping
 in molten solder usually works to remove the enamel, with a clean-up pass
 using sandpaper.
 My favorite protoboard wire is the old 80-wire PATA ribbon cables. In
 Seattle, I can buy the ribbon cable for $1, giving me quite a bit of good
 wire for the price. The wires easily separate with fingernails and the
 insulation easily strips with fingernails too. Avoid the 40-wire version,
 those use stranded wire instead of solid-core.

 -Adam


 On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 3:02 PM, AlexTsekenis alextseke...@gmail.comwrote:

 For any diameter of enamel-coated wire larger than a strand of hair, the
 burnt enamel should be removed to expose the copper. Otherwise solder
 wetting will be poor and the soldering process frustrating.
 You can do this using fine sandpaper, a file, or a sharp knife. Burning
 the enamel first makes removal easier. For thin wires the soldering iron is
 adequate. Larger diameters require a lighter. Even large diameters a small
 blowtorch. Tin the wire prior to soldering using a generous amount of flux.
 This will also show you if you did a good job scrapping off the burnt
 enamel.

 Alex

 On Sunday, December 8, 2013 10:55:05 PM UTC, Gideon Wackers wrote:

 Well the first board is filled with tubes, and my head is filled with
 headache from peering at the board.. The enameled wire was very hard to
 solder even after burning off the enamel layer. Although I do not dare to
 show the abomination that I call soldering the tubes are all connected.
 Don't worry I know how to solder, but the enamel wire was giving me a very
 hard time. The nice thing about the enamel wire was that it was easy to go
 through the forest of component legs. I'm off to bed.

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[neonixie-l] Anyone used Iteadstudio for PCBs?

2013-12-09 Thread Nick
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html (note that their 
prices are for 10 boards)

I was considering using them but was wondering if anyone here had any 
experiences to share, or another alternative that's better?

Thanks

Nick

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Re: [neonixie-l] Anyone used Iteadstudio for PCBs?

2013-12-09 Thread Spencer W
I used them before, not bad boards. I switched to hackvana.com as he is cheaper.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 9, 2013, at 8:16 AM, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
 
 http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html (note that their 
 prices are for 10 boards)
 
 I was considering using them but was wondering if anyone here had any 
 experiences to share, or another alternative that's better?
 
 Thanks
 
 Nick
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: resistance of filament warm vs cold

2013-12-09 Thread Adam Jacobs
Wow, great tip about the aspirin! I'll try that on my next transceiver 
build. :)


-73 Adam W7QI

On 12/9/2013 4:43 AM, Tomislav Kordaso wrote:
Enameled wire is pain to strip mechanically. Back in my school days we 
used a pill of Aspirin and push the end of enameled wire shortly onto 
it with hot solder iron. Aspirin would melt and eat away the enamel, 
easing the tining process. Fumes are not nice to inhale, though.
@Gideon if you prefer protoboards, you can try kynar wire. A 30-gauge 
spool of it is not expensive, strips off easily and solders even easier.


Tomislav


On 9 December 2013 02:44, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us 
mailto:a...@jacobs.us wrote:


Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only
ever used it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the
stuff. Dipping in molten solder usually works to remove the
enamel, with a clean-up pass using sandpaper.
My favorite protoboard wire is the old 80-wire PATA ribbon cables.
In Seattle, I can buy the ribbon cable for $1, giving me quite a
bit of good wire for the price. The wires easily separate with
fingernails and the insulation easily strips with fingernails too.
Avoid the 40-wire version, those use stranded wire instead of
solid-core.

-Adam


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 3:02 PM, AlexTsekenis
alextseke...@gmail.com mailto:alextseke...@gmail.com wrote:

For any diameter of enamel-coated wire larger than a strand of
hair, the burnt enamel should be removed to expose the copper.
Otherwise solder wetting will be poor and the soldering
process frustrating.
You can do this using fine sandpaper, a file, or a sharp
knife. Burning the enamel first makes removal easier. For thin
wires the soldering iron is adequate. Larger diameters require
a lighter. Even large diameters a small blowtorch. Tin the
wire prior to soldering using a generous amount of flux. This
will also show you if you did a good job scrapping off the
burnt enamel.

Alex

On Sunday, December 8, 2013 10:55:05 PM UTC, Gideon Wackers
wrote:

Well the first board is filled with tubes, and my head is
filled with headache from peering at the board.. The
enameled wire was very hard to solder even after burning
off the enamel layer. Although I do not dare to show the
abomination that I call soldering the tubes are all
connected. Don't worry I know how to solder, but the
enamel wire was giving me a very hard time. The nice thing
about the enamel wire was that it was easy to go through
the forest of component legs. I'm off to bed.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Anyone used Iteadstudio for PCBs?

2013-12-09 Thread Nigel Walker
I've used them a few times. I think their prices are very good which has really 
transformed my attitude to getting prototypes made. The only problem is there 
might be postal delays due to Hong Kong customs. I cuurently have a set of 
board which they shipped last week, I can let you know when they arrive as an 
up to the minute report.

Nigel.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Nick 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 2:16 PM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Anyone used Iteadstudio for PCBs?


  http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html (note that their 
prices are for 10 boards)



  I was considering using them but was wondering if anyone here had any 
experiences to share, or another alternative that's better?


  Thanks


  Nick

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: resistance of filament warm vs cold

2013-12-09 Thread chuck richards
Yes, the aspirin trick is a great one on the enameled
wire!   I think of this place every time I use it.

I've built many circuit cards on Vector #3677 plugboards.
They are about 4.5 inch x 9.5 inch, and they have
a 22/44 edge connector, and a hole pattern for 3 columns
of ics.

I use #30 ga wirewrap wire as soldered jumpers.
I run the jumpers on the top side, leaving the
solder side being just the solder joints.

One really nice advantage of the Kynar insulation is
that it has a very small amount of shrink-back when
soldered.   I have found that many other wires such as
stranded wires from ribbon cable tend to have lots
of shrink-back, which can be a real pain.

I also tend to juice up most of my solder joints with
a little extra flux to make the solder flow easily.
I use some special non-conductive flux for these boards
with the tiny close-spaced traces.

Yeah, they are through-hole parts, and that stuff is
plenty small enough for me!   I have not worked on SMD
yet, and do not especially relish the thought of it.

Chuck





 Original Message 
From: a...@jacobs.us
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: resistance of filament warm vs cold
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 17:44:12 -0800

Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only
ever used
it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the stuff. Dipping
in
molten solder usually works to remove the enamel, with a clean-up
pass
using sandpaper.
My favorite protoboard wire is the old 80-wire PATA ribbon cables.
In
Seattle, I can buy the ribbon cable for $1, giving me quite a bit of
good
wire for the price. The wires easily separate with fingernails and
the
insulation easily strips with fingernails too. Avoid the 40-wire
version,
those use stranded wire instead of solid-core.

-Adam


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 3:02 PM, AlexTsekenis
alextseke...@gmail.com wrote:

 For any diameter of enamel-coated wire larger than a strand of
hair, the
 burnt enamel should be removed to expose the copper. Otherwise
solder
 wetting will be poor and the soldering process frustrating.
 You can do this using fine sandpaper, a file, or a sharp knife.
Burning
 the enamel first makes removal easier. For thin wires the
soldering iron is
 adequate. Larger diameters require a lighter. Even large diameters
a small
 blowtorch. Tin the wire prior to soldering using a generous amount
of flux.
 This will also show you if you did a good job scrapping off the
burnt
 enamel.

 Alex

 On Sunday, December 8, 2013 10:55:05 PM UTC, Gideon Wackers wrote:

 Well the first board is filled with tubes, and my head is filled
with
 headache from peering at the board.. The enameled wire was very
hard to
 solder even after burning off the enamel layer. Although I do not
dare to
 show the abomination that I call soldering the tubes are all
connected.
 Don't worry I know how to solder, but the enamel wire was giving
me a very
 hard time. The nice thing about the enamel wire was that it was
easy to go
 through the forest of component legs. I'm off to bed.

  --
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[neonixie-l] Measuring e/m for an electron

2013-12-09 Thread Grahame Marsh



Time to blow the dust of that 2AP1 CRT and measure the e/m ratio of an 
electron.


http://youtu.be/7pbfzp8DlYQ

I've told Javier about neonixie so I hope he is lurking by now.

Grahame




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Re: [neonixie-l] Anyone used Iteadstudio for PCBs?

2013-12-09 Thread Steven Donaldson
Matt,

What do the stencils from oshstencil.com actually look like?  Are they just
the sheet of Polyimide that you lay on the board, smear, and lift or is
there some sort of jig it goes into?


On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Matthew Smith m...@smiffytech.com wrote:

 Quoth Nick at 2013-12-10 00:46 ...

 http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html (note that
 their prices are for 10 boards)

 I was considering using them but was wondering if anyone here had any
 experiences to share, or another alternative that's better


 I use http://oshpark.com US fab, very high quality, Pb-free, product,
 free international shipping. (Plus a really cool purple soldermask.)

 One of the biggest pluses for me is that I can upload an Eagle .brd file,
 without all the mucking around exporting and zipping up Gerbers, like you
 have to do with some providers (like Seeed Studio.)

 Double-sided boards come out at 5 USD per square inch, and, for that, you
 get three copies.

 If you want to do your soldering in a toaster oven (reflow,) there's a
 similar service (different people, I think,) for stencils:
 http://oshstencil.com


 --
 Matthew Smith

 Business: http://www.smiffytech.com
 Blog: http://www.smiffysplace.com
 Linkedin: http://www.linkedin.com/in/smiffy
 Flickr:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/msmiffy
 Twitter:  http://twitter.com/smiffy

 ABN 16 391 203 815

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Re: [neonixie-l] Anyone used Iteadstudio for PCBs?

2013-12-09 Thread Matthew Smith

Quoth Steven Donaldson at 2013-12-10 07:28 ...

Matt,

What do the stencils from oshstencil.com http://oshstencil.com
actually look like?  Are they just the sheet of Polyimide that you lay
on the board, smear, and lift or is there some sort of jig it goes into?


I have yet to order from them, but it is just a polyimide sheet. They 
sell a little jig for 5 USD - just two L-shaped pieces of some material, 
to help hold the stencil flat. (See pricing page for picture.)


--
Matthew Smith

Business: http://www.smiffytech.com
Blog: http://www.smiffysplace.com
Linkedin: http://www.linkedin.com/in/smiffy
Flickr:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/msmiffy
Twitter:  http://twitter.com/smiffy

ABN 16 391 203 815

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[neonixie-l] Re: [TCA] Re: Shameless Plug, and Contest/Giveaway for NL5440As

2013-12-09 Thread laingt


 To the group. This was sent to me by Jorge directly.  I like this project
 for several reasons, creative, father daughter project etc.  Tim Laing

 Dear sir or madam:

 That is a very kind offer from you. I showed this to my daughter and she
 thought that she could find an old aged piece of wood from the beach a
 create a Season Tree. Spaces for the tubes could be carved out from
 the
 wood and with RGB LEDs, they could be illuminated on the bottom
 depending
 on the season. For Xmas, the LED colors would be green, white and red.
 For
 the 4th of July, red, white and blue, for Hallowen - all orange, etc.

 She would do the art work and I would help her with the electronics and
 programming side. Good daughter and father project.

 Thanks and have happy holidays.

 Jorge






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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: [TCA] Re: Shameless Plug, and Contest/Giveaway for NL5440As

2013-12-09 Thread jb-electronics

That sounds like a lovely project indeed!

I for myself am currently building a non-clock with five IN-14 and two 
IN-19A tubes; the purpose is to build a steampunk display for my father: 
he is a runner and recently came past the 1km mark; with this device 
he will be able to display the current amount of kilometers after each 
run. The two IN-19A tubes will display k and m statically. Will post 
pictures on my website when the project is done, of course.


[This should not be miscontrued as a participation in the contest; 
personally, I LOVE the idea of the season tree and I think it is so lovely]


Best wishes
Jens





To the group. This was sent to me by Jorge directly.  I like this project
for several reasons, creative, father daughter project etc.  Tim Laing


Dear sir or madam:

That is a very kind offer from you. I showed this to my daughter and she
thought that she could find an old aged piece of wood from the beach a
create a Season Tree. Spaces for the tubes could be carved out from
the
wood and with RGB LEDs, they could be illuminated on the bottom
depending
on the season. For Xmas, the LED colors would be green, white and red.
For
the 4th of July, red, white and blue, for Hallowen - all orange, etc.

She would do the art work and I would help her with the electronics and
programming side. Good daughter and father project.

Thanks and have happy holidays.

Jorge








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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: [TCA] Re: Shameless Plug, and Contest/Giveaway for NL5440As

2013-12-09 Thread Instrument Resources of America
How about six Nixies to replace UP TO six dice for playing various 
games. Any number of nixies could be turned on depending on how many 
dice were needed for the particular game being played, and then a random 
number generator would be used to select counts of from 1-6 for each 
Nixie turned on. Should be simple enough. Ira.




On 12/9/2013 3:28 PM, jb-electronics wrote:

That sounds like a lovely project indeed!

I for myself am currently building a non-clock with five IN-14 and two 
IN-19A tubes; the purpose is to build a steampunk display for my 
father: he is a runner and recently came past the 1km mark; with 
this device he will be able to display the current amount of 
kilometers after each run. The two IN-19A tubes will display k and 
m statically. Will post pictures on my website when the project is 
done, of course.


[This should not be miscontrued as a participation in the contest; 
personally, I LOVE the idea of the season tree and I think it is so 
lovely]


Best wishes
Jens




To the group. This was sent to me by Jorge directly.  I like this 
project

for several reasons, creative, father daughter project etc. Tim Laing


Dear sir or madam:

That is a very kind offer from you. I showed this to my daughter 
and she

thought that she could find an old aged piece of wood from the beach a
create a Season Tree. Spaces for the tubes could be carved out from
the
wood and with RGB LEDs, they could be illuminated on the bottom
depending
on the season. For Xmas, the LED colors would be green, white and red.
For
the 4th of July, red, white and blue, for Hallowen - all orange, etc.

She would do the art work and I would help her with the electronics 
and

programming side. Good daughter and father project.

Thanks and have happy holidays.

Jorge










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