[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Robert L]

I mentioned TDR earlier in the thread and actually was not completely 
joking... Will probably give it a try over the weekend...

I can send a pulse with a sharp edge into the electrode and see how long it 
takes for a reflection to come back. Fast return = short wire attached, 
longer wait for return = longer wire attached. Have used this technique on 
circuits and resolved a few mm of trace length.

Works pretty well with a good counter.

B

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[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Robert L]

Using a couple of Keithley Source Measure Units in series as a high voltage 
supply. (I have a nice bench at work!) These let me go up to 420 volts at 
100 mA with the pair in series.

I took normal polarity up to about 330 volts measured across the tube at 15 
mA this afternoon... no series resistor as I'm programming the SMU to set 
the current limit. Zero glow on the element, intense and quite isolated 
glow down near the tube base. I don't want to run at these levels for more 
than a few seconds at a time.

I'll try reverse polarity tomorrow... 

Many thanks to all of you for the ideas!

Bob

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Paul Andrews]

I made a portable ion probe out of one of those electric fly swatters. See this 
topic.

Re. elements not lighting up - only the lead up to the element on my flaky 
6844A tubes will glow unless I pump it with more current and then the glow 
reluctantly moves up to the element itself.

On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 8:05:20 PM UTC-4, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> That exactly what I use mine forvery quick test to see if it's lost 
> gas...
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 7, 2017, at 16:47, Robert L  
> wrote:
>
> Funny you should mention a plasma globe... I have one arriving tomorrow. 
> Was thinking of one as a quick and dirty check for gas inside theenvelope.
>
> I'll try running one or more of the unresponsive segments for awhile... 
> Not optimistic as it looks like glow just near the tube base. Not a hint of 
> any glow on the element proper. 240 V measured across the tube at 10 mA, 
> but absolutely no glow on the element. Have you seen something like this 
> recover?
>
> I'm used to seeing at least a partial element glow with the glowing area 
> maybe moving around a bit... Not used to completely dark elements.
>
> Anyway, to be continued!
>
> B
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Nicholas Stock]

That exactly what I use mine forvery quick test to see if it's lost gas...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2017, at 16:47, Robert L  wrote:
> 
> Funny you should mention a plasma globe... I have one arriving tomorrow. Was 
> thinking of one as a quick and dirty check for gas inside theenvelope.
> 
> I'll try running one or more of the unresponsive segments for awhile... Not 
> optimistic as it looks like glow just near the tube base. Not a hint of any 
> glow on the element proper. 240 V measured across the tube at 10 mA, but 
> absolutely no glow on the element. Have you seen something like this recover?
> 
> I'm used to seeing at least a partial element glow with the glowing area 
> maybe moving around a bit... Not used to completely dark elements.
> 
> Anyway, to be continued!
> 
> B
> 
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[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[chuck richards]

Sometimes reversing the polarity can shake things up
enough to make some dark digits start lighting up.

Set it up briefly so that one of the dark digits is the anode (+) side
and the normal anode is the cathode (-) side.

Of course, still be using the proper series resistance so that if or
when
it does light up it does not self destruct.  Try that and let us know
what happens.

Chuck
>
>
> Original Message 
>From: bobleich...@gmail.com
>To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am
>Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2017 16:47:13 -0700 (PDT)
>
>>Funny you should mention a plasma globe... I have one arriving
>tomorrow. 
>>Was thinking of one as a quick and dirty check for gas inside
>theenvelope.
>>
>>I'll try running one or more of the unresponsive segments for
>awhile... Not 
>>optimistic as it looks like glow just near the tube base. Not a hint
>of any 
>>glow on the element proper. 240 V measured across the tube at 10 mA,
>but 
>>absolutely no glow on the element. Have you seen something like this
>
>>recover?
>>
>>I'm used to seeing at least a partial element glow with the glowing
>area 
>>maybe moving around a bit... Not used to completely dark elements.
>>
>>Anyway, to be continued!
>>
>>B
>>
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>cc0fe153f861%40googlegroups.com.
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[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Robert L]

Funny you should mention a plasma globe... I have one arriving tomorrow. 
Was thinking of one as a quick and dirty check for gas inside theenvelope.

I'll try running one or more of the unresponsive segments for awhile... Not 
optimistic as it looks like glow just near the tube base. Not a hint of any 
glow on the element proper. 240 V measured across the tube at 10 mA, but 
absolutely no glow on the element. Have you seen something like this 
recover?

I'm used to seeing at least a partial element glow with the glowing area 
maybe moving around a bit... Not used to completely dark elements.

Anyway, to be continued!

B

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Nicholas Stock]

I've noted the same with some old NL840/841 variantssometimes I've
found holding a reluctant tube next to a plasma globe for a few seconds has
helped...don't ask me why...;-)

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Jeff Walton  wrote:

> Run them for awhile.  Sometimes with old tubes it takes awhile to fire all
> cathodes and clear surface deposits.  Use higher voltage to get them to
> fire and then back down to just run for awhile.  I had some old IN-8-2 with
> fine grids that took about 2 days before they would light properly and now
> they are fine.  1967 tubes...
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Robert L 
> Date: 6/7/17 1:48 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: neonixie-l 
> Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am
>
>
> OK... Tubes just arrived in good condition from USPS, mixed results
> testing them... But both tubes have multiple working digits.
>
> Crack in the glass on tube 10 does not go all the way through... Not too
> surprising as the glass is about 3 mm thick! the better part of 2 mm glass
> intact.
>
> Tube 9: working digits: 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, 0
> Tube 10: working digits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 0
>
> Not bad! Would have loved one tube with a complete set of digits, but no
> complaint!
>
> Suggestions on applications with this limited set of digits? A clock
> displaying 12:37 all day long and right twice a day? A restricted output
> random number generator? Ideas???
>
> B
>
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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Jeff Walton]

Run them for awhile.  Sometimes with old tubes it takes awhile to fire all 
cathodes and clear surface deposits.  Use higher voltage to get them to fire 
and then back down to just run for awhile.  I had some old IN-8-2 with fine 
grids that took about 2 days before they would light properly and now they are 
fine.  1967 tubes... 
Jeff 



 Original message 
From: Robert L  
Date: 6/7/17  1:48 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: neonixie-l  
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am 


OK... Tubes just arrived in good condition from USPS, mixed results testing 
them... But both tubes have multiple working digits.
Crack in the glass on tube 10 does not go all the way through... Not too 
surprising as the glass is about 3 mm thick! the better part of 2 mm glass 
intact.
Tube 9: working digits: 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, 0Tube 10: working digits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 
8, 9, 0
Not bad! Would have loved one tube with a complete set of digits, but no 
complaint!
Suggestions on applications with this limited set of digits? A clock displaying 
12:37 all day long and right twice a day? A restricted output random number 
generator? Ideas???
B



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Re: [neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay

[Paul Andrews]

I would love to see a clock made of these. Anyone with deep pockets?

Here is one over at bad Nixie: 
http://www.badnixie.com/The_%22RackMountable%22_Nixie.html. As my wife would 
say 'Le sigh'.

> On Jun 7, 2017, at 5:05 PM, David Forbes  wrote:
> 
> He may have bought these tubes from Richardson in 2009 for $50 each, and held 
> onto them until he thought that he could recoup his invenstment.
> 
> 
>> On 6/7/2017 2:01 PM, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. wrote:
>> Now he has 9pcs! I have bought other tubes from that seller and don't think 
>> its scam, but i wonder where he gets all that stuff ... Like he sold around 
>> 100pc of 6091 tubes
> 
> 
> -- 
> David Forbes, Tucson, AZ
> 
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Re: [neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay

[David Forbes]

He may have bought these tubes from Richardson in 2009 for $50 each, and held 
onto them until he thought that he could recoup his invenstment.



On 6/7/2017 2:01 PM, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. wrote:

Now he has 9pcs! I have bought other tubes from that seller and don't think its 
scam, but i wonder where he gets all that stuff ... Like he sold around 100pc 
of 6091 tubes




--
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[neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay

[SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F.]

Now he has 9pcs! I have bought other tubes from that seller and don't think its 
scam, but i wonder where he gets all that stuff ... Like he sold around 100pc 
of 6091 tubes

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[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Robert L]

"Will peak in with a stereo microscope later tonight."

No need for the scope - can see the tip of the pin glowing down at the 
base. A very small and somewhat out of position decimal point?

B

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[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Robert L]

Started at 300 VDC for initial testing... The high voltage to help with 
poisoned elements or getting ignition if low gas pressure.

Now running 200 V with 12k series resistor and the tube self limits at 5.3 
mA on the "8" digit.

The small glowing spot at the base for digit "6" with ~2 mA tube current 
and the supply running at the programmed 200 V across the tube strongly 
suggests an open at the base between the pin and digit structure. Will peak 
in with a stereo microscope later tonight.

OK... How about driving with a fast edge and using a counter or fast scope 
to make a Time Domain Reflectometer measurement for the length of the wire?

B

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Nicholas Stock]

Now that's some thinking 'out of the box':-)...I like it!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2017, at 12:24, gregebert  wrote:
> 
> Well, you could make a really goofy single-digit clock with tube #10. Since 
> digits 5 & 6 are out, you could have a mechanism to turn the tube upside down.
> A mechanical version of what the Soviets did with some of their tubes, like 
> the IN-1.
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[gregebert]

Well, you could make a really goofy single-digit clock with tube #10. Since 
digits 5 & 6 are out, you could have a mechanism to turn the tube upside 
down.
A mechanical version of what the Soviets did with some of their tubes, like 
the IN-1.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Robert L]

Some of the missing digits have very small hot spots near the base... Power 
supply in current limit. Not going to risk burning internal connections!

One or two show as open with no measurable current flow... Testing at 300 
VDC, 12K series and backup of a current limit on the HV supply on my bench. 
These numbers per the 7011 preliminary specs. I'm guessing these are 
prototypes of the 7011... and thinking the tape was applied by a tech in 
the Burroughs lab. The truth? No idea!

Will probably make a two digit random number generator, but I do like your 
idea of a 2-digit clock with a small nixie display echoing the large 
display so missing digits can be read off the small tubes. Obviously only 
drive teh big tubes on working digits.

Open to other suggestions!

B

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Well I tried, big tubes on ebay this am

[Paul Andrews]

Very nice. I assume you have tried pumping more current through the non-working 
digits? Like do you get any glow on them at all, or just nothing? Any obvious 
signs that the non-functioning digits are disconnected?

I was contemplating making a clock that deliberately malfunctions with some 
flaky 6844A tubes I have. Maybe a clock with a small backup tube that displays 
the missing digits?

BTW, I was contemplating asking the seller if he knew what kind of device they 
were in. Always curious about these big tubes. 

> On Jun 7, 2017, at 2:48 PM, Robert L  wrote:
> 
> 
> OK... Tubes just arrived in good condition from USPS, mixed results testing 
> them... But both tubes have multiple working digits.
> 
> Crack in the glass on tube 10 does not go all the way through... Not too 
> surprising as the glass is about 3 mm thick! the better part of 2 mm glass 
> intact.
> 
> Tube 9: working digits: 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, 0
> Tube 10: working digits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 0
> 
> Not bad! Would have loved one tube with a complete set of digits, but no 
> complaint!
> 
> Suggestions on applications with this limited set of digits? A clock 
> displaying 12:37 all day long and right twice a day? A restricted output 
> random number generator? Ideas???
> 
> B
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> <7.jpg>
> <8.jpg>

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[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[scotth]

I'm using a switch mode boost converter with a 9VDC input, so I think i'm 
good on that count.  The high voltage is scary enough, I don't think I'd 
want to run the nixies directly from mains :/.  I think I'll go with the 
10k unless anyone thinks I should be more conservative and use a 15k.  If 
anyone can clear up the point that GastonP made about the duty cycle, that 
would be awesome.

On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 12:31:12 PM UTC-4, Tomasz Kowalczyk wrote:
>
> If you're using a wall wart and then a DC/DC converter, then it doesn't 
> matter at all.
>  All this 50Hz stuff comes from times when DC/DC converters weren't 
> popular or cheap, so to make transformers smaller, the display was 
> connected directly to mains, without any isolation.
> Some nixie clocks use it, I believe I've seen one project using biquinary 
> nixies, where one anode was driven by one half of sine wave, and other 
> anode was driven from the other. 
> This method is generally not recommended for safety reasons - both user 
> and tube safety, you should always isolate your devices from mains via a 
> transformer or a wall wart. 
>

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[neonixie-l] NIB LC-631 on sale in Poland

[Jeff]

I'm also interested in 6. does he accept PayPal? will he ship to the US?

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[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

If you're using a wall wart and then a DC/DC converter, then it doesn't 
matter at all.
 All this 50Hz stuff comes from times when DC/DC converters weren't popular 
or cheap, so to make transformers smaller, the display was connected 
directly to mains, without any isolation.
Some nixie clocks use it, I believe I've seen one project using biquinary 
nixies, where one anode was driven by one half of sine wave, and other 
anode was driven from the other. 
This method is generally not recommended for safety reasons - both user and 
tube safety, you should always isolate your devices from mains via a 
transformer or a wall wart. 

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[neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay

[SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F.]

Beauties! But very expensive

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[neonixie-l] arduino clock

[Tomas Begley]

https://www.nixieclock.biz/Store.html

I found this kit online and I was wondering if anyone had any experience 
with it?

it looks good though as it is fully open source so it's great for 
makers/hackers.

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[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[scotth]

Thanks for all the research!  Does it matter that, being in the US, my 
frequency standard is 60Hz?  Also, does the fact that I am using a standard 
9v DC power supply make a difference?

On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 2:48:54 AM UTC-4, Tomasz Kowalczyk wrote:
>
> Even more info!
> https://tubes-store.com/images/in4_manual.jpg
> Same goes for IN-4, there is specified current for half-wave rectified 
> 50Hz voltage. It is 1,5mA for IN-4.
>
>
> Aaaand we've got it! (As long as we assume that we can extrapolate the 
> half-wave rectified average current to average current in any pulsed 
> operation)
> http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/russian_tubes_02.pdf
> Here we can see that:
> 1. IN-8 and IN-8-2 are thrown onto the same page, so they are electrically 
> the same
> 2. On the bottom of the page there is again mentioned half-wave rectified 
> supply and the current is 1mA
> 3. There are A and B regimes mentiones again, but not explained at all
> GastonP, where did you find data about what they are? 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[scotth]

Actually, I'm not sure how I'd meet that 10% and stay within threeneurons' 
specs.

On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 8:49:52 AM UTC-4, scotth wrote:
>
> Oh, since I am turning on one anode at a time, by the time I get back to 
> the same anode, i have gone through 5 more 2ms steps so it has been 10ms, 
> right?  Is that close enough, or should i adjust it so that it is 18ms, 
> which would make the 1.8ms on time 10%?
>
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 1:12:52 PM UTC-4, GastonP wrote:
>>
>> OK you don't need to shout to be heard in this list. :)
>>
>> 1 - You can safely assume that "Pulse Voltage" is the one supplied by 
>> your Power Supply. It is higher than the one needed for non-multiplexed 
>> operation to guarantee a faster strike.
>>
>> 2 - Both modes A and B are safe from an operational standpoint and are 
>> given as indicators of how far you can go with current for the target time 
>> and duty cycle (that's how PWM translates in this case).
>> What it means is that for each 0.1ms a tube is on at 10mA you must wait 
>> 0.9ms before turning it on again or you will burn its life away quite 
>> quickly. The same is valid for mode B with 1ms and 5mA: you must wait 9ms 
>> before turning that tube again on. There is a turn-on delay and also a 
>> turn-off delay so not all of this wait-time is really so. As a reference 
>> you can read this 
>> ,
>>  
>> from Mike Moorrees "Pile of poo" which is an extremely good guide to 
>> multiplexing nixie tubes and quite the opposite to his name choice :)
>>
>> You need to be careful and stick to what the specifications say regarding 
>> to maximum voltage and currents, specially when multiplexing, or as I said 
>> before, you risk to burn your tubes lifetime quite quickly.
>>
>> On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 11:09:55 AM UTC-3, scotth wrote:
>>>
>>> The tubes I'm using for two different clocks are IN-4s and IN-8s. I 
>>> found the pulse specs you referenced on the IN-8 datasheet, but not the 
>>> IN-4. On the IN-8 datasheet, it lists two different modes, A and B. For 
>>> mode A, which is a pulse duration of 0.1ms, it gives a pulse Voltage of 
>>> 200V and current of 10mA. It also lists a PMW of 10%, what does that mean?
>>>
>>> For mode B, which has a pulse duration of 1-2ms, it recommends 200V at 
>>> 5mA and the same PMW.  Which mode should I use?
>>>
>>> Is the pulse Voltage the same as my input voltage before my transistors?
>>>
>>> I will try to measure what current I am at later today.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 7:13:04 AM UTC-4, Tomasz Kowalczyk wrote:

 With most DC voltmeters you can safely assume that it measures the 
 average. So having average voltage drop on anode resistor and resistance 
 you can calculate average current, and then multiply it by 6 (if there is 
 a 
 dimming/anti-ghosting dead time between tubes, you might want to take it 
 into account) to get the pulse current. 
 Nixie tubes can operate in multiplexed mode with pulses of current 
 higher than nominal current - as long as you aren't pushing average 
 current 
 over the nominal current, it should be OK.
 In IN-18 datasheet I found information, that the average current in 
 pulse operation should be a bit lower than during DC operation.

 Anyway, if your tube is specified for 2mA and you multiplex 6 tubes, I 
 think you can safely use 5-6mA pulses (~1mA average current) without 
 damaging the tube. But it would be less guessing and more solid 
 information 
 if you would specify which tubes are you using.

 W dniu poniedziałek, 5 czerwca 2017 04:06:15 UTC+2 użytkownik scotth 
 napisał:
>
> First of all, thanks for accepting me to the group!
>
> I've built a functioning nixie clock that uses a nixie driver to 
> multiplex all six numbers.  Due to my inexperience, I just figured out 
> the 
> resistor that I needed to drive a single nixie tube at the correct 
> voltage 
> an current, which landed me at 22kOhms.  However, as I'm sure you all 
> know, 
> my numbers were much dimmer once i got the multiplexed clock working with 
> the same 22k resistors.  Because of this, I decided to check the voltage 
> drop and current of my nixies and got some numbers that can't be correct, 
> as it is below the operating specs of the tube.  Is it some sort of 
> average 
> or something?
>
> I've seen another thread on here where this is mentioned and I learned 
> that I could get a more accurate reading of voltage and current using a 
> scope (which I don't have). What I'm wondering is, is there a way to 
> calculate what the current should be without measuring it?  I'm not 
> horribly dissapointed that the numbers are dimmer than driving a single 
> tube, but I'd like to make 

[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[scotth]

Oh, since I am turning on one anode at a time, by the time I get back to 
the same anode, i have gone through 5 more 2ms steps so it has been 10ms, 
right?  Is that close enough, or should i adjust it so that it is 18ms, 
which would make the 1.8ms on time 10%?

On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 1:12:52 PM UTC-4, GastonP wrote:
>
> OK you don't need to shout to be heard in this list. :)
>
> 1 - You can safely assume that "Pulse Voltage" is the one supplied by your 
> Power Supply. It is higher than the one needed for non-multiplexed 
> operation to guarantee a faster strike.
>
> 2 - Both modes A and B are safe from an operational standpoint and are 
> given as indicators of how far you can go with current for the target time 
> and duty cycle (that's how PWM translates in this case).
> What it means is that for each 0.1ms a tube is on at 10mA you must wait 
> 0.9ms before turning it on again or you will burn its life away quite 
> quickly. The same is valid for mode B with 1ms and 5mA: you must wait 9ms 
> before turning that tube again on. There is a turn-on delay and also a 
> turn-off delay so not all of this wait-time is really so. As a reference 
> you can read this 
> ,
>  
> from Mike Moorrees "Pile of poo" which is an extremely good guide to 
> multiplexing nixie tubes and quite the opposite to his name choice :)
>
> You need to be careful and stick to what the specifications say regarding 
> to maximum voltage and currents, specially when multiplexing, or as I said 
> before, you risk to burn your tubes lifetime quite quickly.
>
> On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 11:09:55 AM UTC-3, scotth wrote:
>>
>> The tubes I'm using for two different clocks are IN-4s and IN-8s. I found 
>> the pulse specs you referenced on the IN-8 datasheet, but not the IN-4. On 
>> the IN-8 datasheet, it lists two different modes, A and B. For mode A, 
>> which is a pulse duration of 0.1ms, it gives a pulse Voltage of 200V and 
>> current of 10mA. It also lists a PMW of 10%, what does that mean?
>>
>> For mode B, which has a pulse duration of 1-2ms, it recommends 200V at 
>> 5mA and the same PMW.  Which mode should I use?
>>
>> Is the pulse Voltage the same as my input voltage before my transistors?
>>
>> I will try to measure what current I am at later today.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 7:13:04 AM UTC-4, Tomasz Kowalczyk wrote:
>>>
>>> With most DC voltmeters you can safely assume that it measures the 
>>> average. So having average voltage drop on anode resistor and resistance 
>>> you can calculate average current, and then multiply it by 6 (if there is a 
>>> dimming/anti-ghosting dead time between tubes, you might want to take it 
>>> into account) to get the pulse current. 
>>> Nixie tubes can operate in multiplexed mode with pulses of current 
>>> higher than nominal current - as long as you aren't pushing average current 
>>> over the nominal current, it should be OK.
>>> In IN-18 datasheet I found information, that the average current in 
>>> pulse operation should be a bit lower than during DC operation.
>>>
>>> Anyway, if your tube is specified for 2mA and you multiplex 6 tubes, I 
>>> think you can safely use 5-6mA pulses (~1mA average current) without 
>>> damaging the tube. But it would be less guessing and more solid information 
>>> if you would specify which tubes are you using.
>>>
>>> W dniu poniedziałek, 5 czerwca 2017 04:06:15 UTC+2 użytkownik scotth 
>>> napisał:

 First of all, thanks for accepting me to the group!

 I've built a functioning nixie clock that uses a nixie driver to 
 multiplex all six numbers.  Due to my inexperience, I just figured out the 
 resistor that I needed to drive a single nixie tube at the correct voltage 
 an current, which landed me at 22kOhms.  However, as I'm sure you all 
 know, 
 my numbers were much dimmer once i got the multiplexed clock working with 
 the same 22k resistors.  Because of this, I decided to check the voltage 
 drop and current of my nixies and got some numbers that can't be correct, 
 as it is below the operating specs of the tube.  Is it some sort of 
 average 
 or something?

 I've seen another thread on here where this is mentioned and I learned 
 that I could get a more accurate reading of voltage and current using a 
 scope (which I don't have). What I'm wondering is, is there a way to 
 calculate what the current should be without measuring it?  I'm not 
 horribly dissapointed that the numbers are dimmer than driving a single 
 tube, but I'd like to make sure I'm operating at the nominal current in 
 order to maximize my brightness without significantly decreasing the 
 expected life of the tubes.  Any help is greatly appreciated!

 Below is a picture of my anode driving transistor circuit (?) not sure 
 

[neonixie-l] Four NL-8091 on ebay

[Paul Andrews]

Time to take out a second mortgage folks: These on eBay: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112434355542 

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[neonixie-l] Re: NIB LC-631 on sale in Poland

[SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F.]

Hi, i would be interested in one piece. 

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[neonixie-l] NIB LC-631 on sale in Poland

[Paul Andrews]

I am definitely interested. Maybe 6 tubes, but definitely one. Feel free to 
private message me if you like. 

Thanks for posting this. 

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[neonixie-l] NIB LC-631 on sale in Poland

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

Hi, there is some seller offering NIB LC-631s, with testing before sending 
in Poland. He wants 100zł (about 25$) for one. If anyone is interested, I 
can contact him and ask if he would send them abroad or e-mail in english 
with you. 
Warning - olx.pl is a site that only hosts offers, it does not guarantee 
any money returns etc. So some risky stuff for gamblers. I think that due 
to their rarity, for collectors it might be worth the risk - for me, it is 
too much for a tube :( 
https://www.olx.pl/oferta/lampy-nixie-lc631-nos-nowe-w-oryginalnych-pudelkach-CID99-IDmGG0I.html#1a7f024f1d

Stuff is risky, because he uses photos from internet instead of his own, so 
if anyone is interested, I'll ask for photos and tube count, too. I can 
also translate it if google translate won't do the job.

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[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

Even more info!
https://tubes-store.com/images/in4_manual.jpg
Same goes for IN-4, there is specified current for half-wave rectified 50Hz 
voltage. It is 1,5mA for IN-4.


Aaaand we've got it! (As long as we assume that we can extrapolate the 
half-wave rectified average current to average current in any pulsed 
operation)
http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/russian_tubes_02.pdf
Here we can see that:
1. IN-8 and IN-8-2 are thrown onto the same page, so they are electrically 
the same
2. On the bottom of the page there is again mentioned half-wave rectified 
supply and the current is 1mA
3. There are A and B regimes mentiones again, but not explained at all
GastonP, where did you find data about what they are? 

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[neonixie-l] Re: 6x Multiplexing Nixie Current

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

If we assume that IN-8 and IN-8-2 are electrically the same, then I've 
digged some info. For pulsed operation from 50Hz (one half rectifying? 
"one-half ??? without filter, sounds like just a diode) the average current 
should be 1mA. I think that we can extrapolate this data to just "average 
current in non-dc operation".
Which suggests that you've picked exactly the right resistor (10k)!

BTW IN-8-2 datasheet also states that DC current can be as high as 4,5mA - 
it just isn't in the operating region which guarantess at least 1h 
operating time.

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