Hello guys,
There is a new nixie tube "DMG01" and the clock using this tube , project
lanched on Kickstarter now: （ not my list )
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/inixie/glowing-with-nostalgia-the-resurgence-of-nixie-tubes/description
The tube is similar with IN18 in size but with more
ble the range (inaccurately,
> because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 VDC.
>
> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned.
>
> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>>
>> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to fi
ably caused by a cold joint at a ground
> point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a while to
> solder.
>
> Paolo
>
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow wrote:
>
>> Hi Paolo,
>>
>> no filament glow after one minute powered
John Snow wrote:
> Forwarded the documentation on, rotary control board turned up, I'm on to
> calibration
>
> On Wednesday, 19 May 2021 at 20:01:19 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>
>> My kit arrived today WITHOUT instructions. Damn! If anyone has an
>> electronic co
hing I
> could find on their website. But at least I dont have to worry about the
> CRT connections because they prewired it for me.
>
> On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 7:59:23 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary contro
Assembled all of it & somehow managed to misplace the rotary control board.
They've made a few near-substitutions in the parts list, notably the XYZ
board part #46 - 1 piece 510K is now a 1M resistor, this was the last one I
soldered, presuming uprated intentionally.
There's a few more with
Are you going to remove the tube's legs from the plastic to re-use? If so,
have you already tried or are they melted on?
On Tuesday, 18 May 2021 at 22:33:48 UTC+1 Dekatron42 wrote:
> I am looking for one (1), or perhaps two, IN-8-2 with full length pins
> from 1983 or 1984 with preferably
doesn't use pins 4 or 12 either.
I'd taken the gap (pins 12 and 13) as the gap on the diagram above.
Interestingly I have pin 4 present on the socket but not wired up - someone
must have changed their mind assembling it.
On Sunday, 16 May 2021 at 21:24:47 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
> When you
ither
> finished it, or ran into a problem.
>
> On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 5:15:45 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Found a conflict between the documentation (both before and after google
>> auto-translation). The conflict is between Anodes A1,A2,A3 in the sellers
>> do
the transformer operating characteristics I'd
be hesitant to plug in anything else.
I'll probably try to replace the fuses with polyfuses in the future,
socketing them for now, and taking measurements while unpopulated for
easier case design later.
On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:25:12 UTC+1 John Snow
Any idea what the special purpose of the tube is?
On Friday, 14 May 2021 at 16:49:42 UTC+1 Richard Scales wrote:
> PM Sent.
> - Richard
>
>
> On Friday, 14 May 2021 at 15:19:23 UTC+1 alex nolan wrote:
>
>> After seeing another very rare and large tube get listed on eBay, I
>> figured I would
Is there that much of a range in brightness of the tubes, or is that a
camera artifact of multiplexing the power?
Nice to see something I wouldn't be able to find enough tubes or money to
make in action!
On Friday, 30 April 2021 at 00:59:44 UTC+1 Terry Bowman wrote:
>
> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021,
Huh, ebay auction says 12V 5A, a previous aliexpress page gives much lower
values for amperage:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001142939399.html
I'm assuming it's the same design from the pictures
On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 20:18:53 UTC+1 John Snow wrote:
> The kit was previou
.
On Wednesday, 28 April 2021 at 19:46:03 UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:
> They actually seem very cheap to me...
>
> On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 12:56:00 PM UTC-4 John Snow wrote:
>
>> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at
>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2651391
:40:02 UTC Collin Smith wrote:
> Have you looked at these kits?
>
> https://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 16, 2020, at 00:17, John Snow wrote:
>
> I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later
>
I've tried to get that one from Aliexpress previously, but they later
refunded me saying they weren't getting any more stock.
On Friday, 11 December 2020 at 21:42:35 UTC Pramanicin wrote:
> Did anyone else on the list buy one of those recent CRT clock kits that
> was listed on eBay?
>
> like
It's gone live, there's still super early-bird 40% off pledges avalible for
those interested.
-John
On Friday, 6 November 2020 at 08:45:16 UTC ai...@omnixie.com wrote:
> Not yet. Still under review by KS. Should go live soon.
>
> I’ll update the post then.
>
>
> Warm regards,
> Aiden
>
>
>
>
ck.com/archives/2946> units in the past.
>
> - Aaron
> On Thursday, October 15, 2020 at 9:21:41 AM UTC+9 John Snow wrote:
>
>> Followup - I can follow of the Soviet naming standards, I'm looking at
>> (chinese?) 8SJ29J, 8SJ31J or 8SJ42J CRT tubes - is the difference bet
Followup - I can follow of the Soviet naming standards, I'm looking at
(chinese?) 8SJ29J, 8SJ31J or 8SJ42J CRT tubes - is the difference between
them just the serial, or is there a functional difference between them too?
On Saturday, 30 May 2020 at 16:44:18 UTC+1 Pramanicin wrote:
> I should
Highly recommend Adafruit's Iceclock kit for an IV-18, built a few & it's
open-source, which is good as it's been out of production a while.
On Wednesday, 17 June 2020 23:03:22 UTC+1, roy teddmann wrote:
>
> Hello everyone!! Im new here and pretty new to Nixie's. I have always had
> a passion
Is there a model line of CRT tube that's available in different colors?
Alternatively; know of any analogue oscilloscopes that came in different
colors?
I'd like to put something together to display Lissajous curves - i'd much
rather use monochromatic displays than color CRTs where I use only
I take it you you a flux pen or something to add additional solder? That
must have dried up by now
On Sunday, 3 May 2020 16:25:29 UTC+1, martin martin wrote:
>
> I use a 40 year old spool of Kester 44. 0.31 dia, flux core 58
>
>
>
> ~
> *mcve...@gmail.com *
>
>
> On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 7:54 AM
I know IN-12B Nixies the decimal place need an additional resistor on the
decimal place (usually ~22k, 1/4W from memory)
Do IV-22 VFDs require something similar for their decimal place - if so
what's a good value compared to the other segments?
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Is there a good way to display yet-to-be-used nixie and VDF tubes?
I've gotten in a few for later projects, and have a mix of pins and wired
for both vertical and horizontal tubes.
I'd like to keep them safe, but also not boxed up and infoam.
Odds are it'll be a few years before I use up all
Right now, nothing, but I like wire up or breakout connections for later
use.
It's less forward-planning and more not getting in my own way later.
On Monday, 24 February 2020 20:52:38 UTC, nixiebunny wrote:
> What do you want to use the decimal point for?
>
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Great, that's what I thought it meant.
Now I'm tempted to skip having a decimal point, and avoid the extra hassle
of an additional 74141 & 74HC595 to drive it.
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I'm trying to use 74141 drivers (intentionally), they have enough outputs
to drive 0-9 per tube; but not including a display point.
I'm hoping to use a seperate driver to drive the display points (with an
approproate resistor to reduce the current from numerical display levels)
Will this mean
That should be just Neon or Argon... I should probably follow documentation
over ebay descriptions.
On Thursday, 13 February 2020 10:02:34 UTC, John Snow wrote:
>
> Is there any difference between base material for ageing/working lifespan?
>
> How about if it has a Argon/Neon
Is there any difference between base material for ageing/working lifespan?
How about if it has a Argon/Neon or a Helium/Hydrogen fill?
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Is it possible to construct a perspex prison with silica gel inside for the
clocks?
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Ahh, this is for testing them as they arrive, then shelving them for future
projects.
I saw Marcin Saj has a few testers, but they seem more for socket-pin tubes.
The knobs also don't have settings I can set it to for different tubes, or
a display for the current voltage or current.
--
You
I have some not-NOS nixies arriving, and they have flying leads instead of
pins - what's the best way to test them prior to soldering them into place?
I've heard of using a plasma ball to ionise the gas to see if it's still
sealed, but is there a gadget I can buy that clips onto the leads?
I'd
What's people's preferences for the plastic end caps on nixie tubes?
Is it better practice to leave them on or remove them?
I understand getting a matched set that includes color can be difficult.
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Completely missed and René and Coffee were the same person there sorry!
I was that eager to get it working.
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René - thanks for getting me into settings, I had assumed there'd be
different duration for accessing different settings.
Coffee - thanks for documentation, it'll come in handy updating the time &
saves me making notes.
I've set the time & date now - it's interesting it has a day of the week
Congratulations! Looking forward to the finished picture!
On Monday, 3 September 2018 21:01:56 UTC+1, Terry S wrote:
>
> Mission accomplished! The tester slots are full, and no further tubes are
> needed. Thanks to all of you who helped me fill the tester drawers!
>
> Terry
>
>
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Oh boy I hadn't considered FPGAs - I supposed that's beyond the scope of my
current projects, just the direction I'm going in.
Added to my list!
Any others?
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Keeping the tubes as the only unchangeable part, I've seen clocks with:
I've seen a few implementations of microcontrollers; ATmega, ESP32 are the
main two 'recent' ones I've noticed - and the entirely transistor based one
was impressive.
The digits can be multiplexed or direct-driven; 74141,
Just the IN-17, or do all IN tubes need this? I've only intentionally done
it for barograph tubes.
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Beautiful clock - I'm kicking myself for not thinking of the name myself!
On Tuesday, 13 March 2018 09:46:32 UTC, 严泽远 wrote:
>
> Dear all,
>
> Six years have past since my last Nixie Clock released, today I finished
> my new Nixie project 'Omnixie', a smart Wifi Nixie Clock.
>
> Omnixie powered
I've narrowed it down to either HV5522 or HV5530 - I can't tell a
difference except the sustained/transient voltage for *22 is 220V/230V and
the sustained/transient voltage for *30 is 300V/320V.
How do these two differ? I've been through the datasheets for both.
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I found a pretty good comparison on
http://swissnixie.com/index.php?go=cathodedriving for those interested -
I'll be going with the HV chips, just need to narrow it down to which
one(s).
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diode pin.
>
>
> On Feb 26, 2018 7:49 AM, "John Snow" <jrope...@gmail.com >
> wrote:
>
>> What driver chips have you used besides 7441 or 74141 in direct drive
>> mode for your Nixie projects?
>>
>> I've used Max69** chips with VFD projects but have not f
What driver chips have you used besides 7441 or 74141 in direct drive mode
for your Nixie projects?
I've used Max69** chips with VFD projects but have not found a good Nixie
driver chip yet.
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Nice! How did you power the Dekatron? I have a OG-7 I've been meaning to
get around to using, they need a max of 430-450v - I'm used to Nixies with
170-200v max.
On Saturday, 10 February 2018 23:56:26 UTC, Gilor wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> That's my first post on this group, even if I'm registered
I'm afraid you've been ripped off - this is clearly a giant 'I' turned
sideways.
On Saturday, 3 February 2018 04:54:49 UTC, threeneurons wrote:
>
> My nephew dumped an "H" sign character off at the shop. I just saw it
> there one day. I asked him about it, and he said, it was gift for a friend
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