Text me at eight six 4-three eight zero 25 nine zero
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I have a couple of right side covers. What color do you need?
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I’ve always heard and believed that less than 15 volts is just fine.
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Sadly, after 33 years, with only a 1 year break in the middle, I have no
Nighthawk! I’ve never owned a different bike (other than one I was given to
repair and sell). I’ve had 7 or 8 Nighthawks of all three larger food groups.
I sold my 700S to a guy that I hope, and he seemed, to really love
I wouldn’t replace the fork seals unless they are leaking. As for air
pressure, it is so low that it is hard to set. Get a tank and fill the tank
just above the pressure you need and do it that way. They should equalize to
get you what you need. Never even tried to set mine, but I’m pretty
Can you be more specific?
>From petcock, fuel line goes to the lower fuel rail on the carbs. Make sure
>always sloping down. No inline filter.
The top line/rail on carbs is a vent. Tube comes off, turns down and is open
below.
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Winter has little to do with it. Even in summer you’ll need to let it warm up
for a few minutes. Sounds like you got it perfect.
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Well...easy to remove the rear wheel of the brakes aren’t stuck...
Getting in the center stand takes a little practice. It is not hard, just a
technique.
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A battery tender is your friend. It will greatly increases the life of most
batteries.
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Maybe run a little Marvins Mystery Oil in it.
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Check the cables, etc. I’ve had my AGM from Batteries pLus for several years
and use trickle charger. Mine just failed me last week. Turned out the
positive lead was loose.
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Mothballs? You heathen...
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Also for hard to find parts, check out
Cmsnl.com
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If your’s was round, it wasn’t OEM.
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I have also seen where people have reinstalled the flasher upside down. The
open (non-molded) end should be down so it won’t hold water.
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But does your reverse work?
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That is strange. I’ve owned 6-8 NHs. All were 84-86 except one ‘93. None self
cancelled.
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It’s not a thing. You gotta push to turn off.
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Cut it...
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Perfect advice above!
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My 750 that I just sold would die if stand went down while in gear. I assumed
normal.
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I thought you were in GA!
Maybe two issues? Clutch switch and neutral switch? Now that I reread that,
seems unlikely.
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Go to CMSNL.com and see if they have OEM. Pay the extra money for the correct
solenoid. It is worth it.
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Mine have always been plug and play. pregapped.
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As I recall, one carb drain faces one way and the rest face the other. Not 2
and 2. But I sold my 650 and I’m not home to compare with my 700S.
Winker stays are same length, again, as I recall.
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If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more possibility. In
the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening. Mine were clogged and ran like
crap. When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and blown out (his third try!)
it finally ran like brand new.
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That’s it!
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I just scored a free almost new Honda pressure washer for this very reason
owner had used it 3 times and could not get it to start. I removed the jet. It
was completely clogged. Used a piece of copper wire, cleaned it out, and runs
like new. All because of ethanol gas!! Well...and time
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I think he is being tongue in cheek. It sounds like #4 carb is dirty. Needs
cleaning.
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Oh. I see what you mean. I didn’t notice the “buy” thing was grayed out. Sorry
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Just looked. Cmsnl.com has them.
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I tried non-OEM and they sucked.
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Darin, those are called “winker stays” by microfiche. I am pretty sure they
have those new (great investment) on cmsnl.com or maybe even Partzilla.
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Darin, those are called “winter stays” by microfiche. I am pretty sure they
have those new (great investment) on cmsnl.com or maybe even Partzilla.
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Looks great!
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Sorry...
Ha ha ha
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NGK is the only brand I use for these bikes.
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I THINK fuse to start button, to hi/low to light.
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My 750 headlight wasn’t working. Traced it back to a loose wire in right
control thing. Just needs a touch of solder to fix.
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How did they taste?
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Oh, you said it was flowing “through the petcock (turned off)”. That is the
plastic/rubber disk within.
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Or plastic cocktail sword.
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The disk in the petcock seems also to be bad. If turned off, fuel can’t get by
unless that disk is breaking down.
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Just stuff old rags all up in there to prevent debris.
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My opinion: the $16 dollar ones lasted almost 35 years. Do it right.
That said, I’ve heard others have had good luck with sealants applied to those
half moons if you are being really cost conscious. Perhaps others may tell you
what kind should work.
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Well...I suppose you could call it that, but by definition, an air pump cannot
cavitate. Now you may be getting an air bubble in that fuel line, but that
seems really unlikely and defies simple physics. Unless, of course, there is a
restriction like a second (or third, depending on what we
Well...I suppose you could call it that, but by definition, an air pump cannot
cavitate.
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Lower fuel tank level reduces the gravity head of pressure by Gavin bless
weight. There is no cavitation on these bikes. A pump cavitates.
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No worries. Thanks
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Ball peen hammer?
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Ya gotta remove the plastic cap in first pic, then the bolt below it. Your
axle is not in all the way. The visible groove lines up with that capped Allen
bolt.
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No worries. Heal!!
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Hey Michael,
Can you send me a few pics?
Ominbound at gmail
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Quit the cheap crap and go OEM.
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I think I have an extra fuse box.
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Looks like a happy young lady! Nice job, Dad!
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I replaced those needles with cocktail swords!
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There’s your problem. Ethanol gas. I’ve had at least one of the ones you
mentioned for almost 30 years. Only cleaning I’ve ever done is when I bought
them. I also ride maybe once a month or so even in winter.
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You need to re-write your email. Can’t be read. Use spaces so it doesn’t hide
the address.
email at gmail etc
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Normal thread. Pretty sure all studs in NHs are normal thread.
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Use a ratchet strap AFTER sliding the whole airbox aft.
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That’s it, Jenya!!
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Did you also replace orings on the fuel rail? I know it is more work, but I
highly recommend it.
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Unless you just want to, don’t worry about the washer mod. I put one in,
noticed no difference so took it off. If you just wanna play, and it IS easy,
remove them.
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700S rides different, but very nice. I have had both. The am short. The 700
is just barely ok for me. The 650 was a better fit, but I just like the 700
more. You’ll be fine at your size on the 700. Won’t hadly notice the fuel.
But if you go 750, I suggest post ‘91. More parts available.
Very nice job! Looks outstanding.
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Wow! Good job. I’d just do the spring, first. That may be all you need and
certainly meets your other criteria.
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Nearly impossible to find parts. Good luck, though.
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I’ve always been told that the rattle will not hurt it. Mine rattled for 15
years. Then I sold it.
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People like you just piss me off!
Man, I wish I had that luck.
Nice find!
Lots of great people and advice here. Welcome.
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Oops. The right one is broken. Probably a bulb.
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I figure I am doubling my battery life by using a tender! I’ve had great
success with 4 tenders on similar batteries.
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Jenna, please ignore any advice from Graham.
Anyone who thinks mango is the better cup, er I mean flavor, is NOT to be
trusted...
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I didn’t get an email, but rather you responded here.
Please try again with your cell number and I’ll text some pics.
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I’ve used one. It was actually quite good. I don’t remember the cost. I had
sold the bike (for a friend) on EBay.
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I’ll be home tomorrow. Email me and remind me.
Ominbound at gmail
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Have a ‘93 speedo. Not sure about tach.
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And they’ll last another 30 years.
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Hijack notice!
EG, I bought a ’93 750 NH for $500 not running and got it running strong!
I may replace the clutch cable if I can’t get it looser, but cleaned the carbs
and new plugs. Plan to sell it in the spring.
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All good advice, but I’ve had this exact problem. Mine was the 6 o rings
between each carb. Once apart, easy enough to swap. Getting carbs off and then
apart, is not for the feint of heart. It is a booger, but patience prevails. I
will be very surprised if they seal themselves.
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Round and mostly black. When I get home, I’ll double check and send a pic.
Email me at
Ominbound at gmail
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I may have a faceplate. I get great shipping rates with Fedex, too.
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Thanks anyway!
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Oh, and it is that type. Have one complete and one just the mirror. I got
them in a box of parts I bought years ago.
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Oh, and it is that type. Have one complete and one just the mirror. I got
them in a box of parts I bought yard ago.
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Thanks! I have the mirror, but not the arm.
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Does anyone have a mirror arm they wanna get rid of? I have a good mirror,
just need a right side from a 650 to match the one I put on there. 700, or 750
would also work if the whole mirror.
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Does anyone have a mirror arm they wanna get rid of? I have a good mirror,
just need a right side from a 750, 700, or 650 would probably work.
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I’m still not sure what helped it run better. The carbs looked pretty clean,
light through all the jets, etc. There was a deposit at the bottom of each
bowl, so obviously there had been trash through there, but I bet most carbs
would have a little. I cleaned and checked the slides and
Finally got them on! First test drive and she runs great! Strong.
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I guess I’ll try that next.
Thanks
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Any tricks to get these new intake boots attached into the airbox?
Good grief! It ain’t easy...
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Thanks Dustin. I have a synch tool. (Mercury)
Graham, yes. The woosh is less and slide moves a little quicker. I can’t find
any holes in the diaphragm. I guess I’ll pull them out and clean them.
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Air filter is clean enough. Inside the carbs was really clean! (Best advice
ever pullin back the airbox!). I’m soaking the Jets, and suspicious about one
of the slides. I’ll replace the plugs before trying to start it again.
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I know. Stupid me. Didn’t really think of plugs. I’ll check those. Not gonna
pull the valve cover. This think doesn’t leak a drop of oil so not gonna open
it up unless I have to.
I am leaning towards dirty jets or a bad vac slide boot. I ordered some new
intake boots that should arrive
Hey man. Got a battery now. More thinking about the rough running at 6,500 RPMs
and above doesn’t do it in first, but all other gears. Now smooth at lower
RPMs.
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No one?
Already bought a battery.
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Oops. 1993
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Well, I found a deal too good to pass up. Runs a little rough, and started to
Bob it out, but I have most of the original parts and plan to semi restore to
stock.
Can some one tell me correct battery? Currently it has a (dead) BB-14A2. But
the drain hose is not on the correct side,
1 - 100 of 1040 matches
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