Hi all
Just to add my two 'penneth. I use French Polish from Screwfix (bigger
bottles than B&Q). I use it straight from the bottle (well mixed) for ferrules
and I have some which has slightly evaporated and therefore thicker in a small
jar for key-pads.
Incidently, you can also get 'Blonde' Fr
What a helpful discussion!
Being rather nervous of soldering irons if I don't absolutely have to
use them, I made up a small amount of thick and very sticky
shellac-in-alcohol for these purposes by gradually adding more and more
dry flake shellac to some good commercial sanding sealer that I
UHU is a pain if you need to get in there, though.
Shellac is at least easy to soften.
John
--
To get on or off this list see list information at
http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
On 15 Jan 2011, at 14:44, Paul Scott wrote:
> It is a set made in the 70's by my godfather who followed Colin ross's
> designs and advice. I used a hot hair dryer and pliers to pull off the
> ferrule and I think there is shellac underneath. So if I applied the solution
> and then allowed it to
It is a set made in the 70's by my godfather who followed Colin ross's designs
and advice. I used a hot hair dryer and pliers to pull off the ferrule and I
think there is shellac underneath. So if I applied the solution and then
allowed it to get sticky would that solve the evaporation issue?
P
Hello Anthony and all,
I always used to use Mike Nelson's method of sticking on key pads, and agree
with your comments of it mostly working well and forming the pad to the
shape of the seating. However I have now gone back to the method I
originally learned form Colin - the drop of sticky shellac
Hello Francis and Paul
David B uses shellac on his silver mounted sets.
As Paul's set is made from lignum it won't be a Burleigh set. So
shellac seems to make sense in this case.
When it comes to pad fixing Mike Nelson's method of using a small piece
of flake shellac between pad
Paul, this largely depends on what the pipe-maker has used in the first place.
Shellac would be an appropriate material for antique pipes, fulfilling two
functions, both as an adhesive and a gap-filler. In this case the material
would be solid shellac rather than in solution which will obviousl
I certainly still use shellac - and I'm pretty sure other pipemakers do. It
has the advantage of being easily removable. Heating the ferrule quite
gently will melt the shellac and allow the ferrule to be taken off if any
future repair is needed. Old shellac can be cleaned off with methylated
sp
After having fixed a leaky tuning bead fitting I have to replace the brass
ferrule and end stopper. Am I correct that shellac is the best solution? I know
that there are plenty of other adhesives but would Shellac in alcohol be the
stuff I am looking for? It us advertised as sanding sealer and s
How about
"The Gold Plated pipes"
or
"Snotomer's Maggot".
Does anyone feel inspired to write them?
Dru
On 15 Jan 2011, at 00:07, Francis Wood wrote:
A Strathspey, surely?
Francis
On 14 Jan 2011, at 23:57, gibbonssoi...@aol.com wrote:
Is 'The rotting of the cotton threads' the title of
11 matches
Mail list logo
