It is true - Cosmicar is mainly for high end application optics like television and -
maybe - movie lenses. The only other brand besides this and Pentax is of course
Takumar.
Buy it and let us know what you find out!
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at
Hi Shel,
The answer is yes. The goal is to adjust the condenser such that the
point on the light is the centre of the lens. I use the 50, 80 and 105
lenses with mine and they correspond to the 3 format settings.
Bob
- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
Buy it from the guy who had it brought in for you. He has earned it.
Doug
That is exactly what I decided to do. I knew in my heart it was the right thing to
do...plus now I'll have it by Monday rather than later! Thank you all for your
advice, and have a happy new year.
Jim
--
To my untrained eye (I'm no graphic designer), I much preferred the second
one (smaller file). It seemed to show much more depth. Maybe that was
because it was a closer shot. The pen looked much more real to me in that
one. Which camera were you using, incidentally?
-
This message is
Even though i have a state of the art(D1) digital camera,
i still have a lot to learn about lighting with it and PS digital
editing.Until i do however the 5 Pentax film bodies are staying
right were they are in my Lowepro.
My recent motto:When in doubt,film it.
Dave
Begin Original Message
On Sun, 30 Dec 2001 00:02:28 -0800, you wrote:
Jim Apilado wrote:
I've got the 500mm SMC Takumar. Never heard of this Wimberley Gimble head
until I saw this post. I'll have to look into it.
Nothing beats it, I am very satisfied with mine. The Wimberly URL is
www.tripodhead.com. If you
Very nice William.I try to do this with my family,
but when they see the big ol screwmount stuff
come out,they bolt.
I really like your setting of the top 3 pictures,just can't place
it.I know for sure it's not Taylor Field LOL.
Was this available light or a light setup??
Dave(glad there is
David Brooks recently signed a post as:
Dave(glad there is only 1 'Rider team in the CFL.)Brooks
Dave, Dave, Dave,
It was so much fun having two teams in the CFL with the same name! It
confounded foreigners (read: Americans) so - especially when they both
made it to the Grey Cup. The
I recently aquired an S3 and 3 primes from a list member
and finally the weather is cooperating and had a chance
to run a test roll(of 12) through it.Other than the
subject matter being crappy,all looks well.I shot with and without
the clip on meter,sunny 16 rule,Kodak Pocket photo guide wheels,
The drawer is for filters - either VC or color. And you could put head absorbing
glass but I think that enlarger already has it.
Blow out the condenser head and get it nice and clean. When you use the Dichro head I
think you have the option of doing it with or
without the condensers - can't
In a message dated 12/30/2001 8:34:01 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Now i run the full gauntlet,meterless M42 mounts to a D1.
Go fiqure eh.
Dave
Addiction grin?
Best regards to fellow addicts,
Ed M.
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To
Perhaps you have one zero too much in the Finnish price? Well, after tomorrow it is
history - we all have Euros. I can recommend the store, though - the largest selection
of used stuff in Finland and the guy is an expert.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at
Hey all,
I've got some questions about the MZ-S and it's flash system. At my
position at the paper, my primary duty is to shoot sports. If there is an
editorial assignment and a basketball game at the same time, the basketball
game has my priority (generally speaking). So I was pretty
WHY NOT SCAN THEM AND PRINT DIGITAL?
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Malcolm Smith
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Hi everyone,
My mother was
I just received this from them yesterday:
Original Message
Subject: RE: pentax pz1-p battery grip
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:23:22 -0800
From: Ruth and David Cam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Alexandre Suaide [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Alex,
we are still working on the grip, unfortuantly we
Hi Shel,
I use a 23CII, but I've replaced the original condenser head with
an Aristo cold light source. I used it for several years with the
condenser lenses though. The bellows adjustment is there in order to
adjust the light source for even distribution and focusing of the point
light
Hi,
As I'm interested in buying some inexpensive film scanner, I've jus asked
you about the PrimeFilm 1800U. There is another scanner, very similar to the
PrimeFilm - Microtek FilmScan 35. Can you say anything of it and how it
compares to the Prime Film?
TIA
Artur
-
This message is from the
Thanks for the good tips, Ed. Since I've a dichro head on the other
enlarger, this one will stay as a condenser unit.
The heat absorbing glass didn't seem to be needed with the Omega
D2V-series, but it might be helpful if I were working with 2¼, and, of
course, the Beseler is designed a little
http://www.leicashop.at/minivend/leicashop/
62973 PENTAX K 120/2,8 SMC
LIKE NEW WITH PERFECT LENSES,HOOD,KEEPER 5262070
A/B
US$ 240
http://www.leicashop.at/minivend/leicashop/
53436 PENTAX K 28/3,5 SMC PENTAX
CAPS 6360320
B+
US$ 180
Paul Franklin Stregevsky
13 Selby Court
Poolesville,
LENS,500MM 4.5 PENTAX SMC K MT PEN U-843 $799 MINT 90-DAY TCR WARR
Tempe Camera Repair
http://www.tempecamera.com/mlynk/ocs.txt
62976 PENTAX K 500/4,5 SMC
RARE PENTAX TELE,LIKE NEW,PERFECT LENSES,CAPS,KEEPER 5067458
A/B (Condition; optical and mechanical, I think)
US$ 590
Carlos,
This question appeared in PDML during the first half of 2001. Someone wrote
that yes, you must use one of the filters; the filter is part of the lens
formula. I have assumed that this is true. I don't have a problem on my
Super Programs, so I've never felt the need to remove it.
Frankly I would pick up a flatbed scanner - 600ppi should be enough resolution.
Alternately just use your tripod and a macro lens.
Maris
- Original Message -
From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 10:59 AM
Subject: Copying old
I don't have a scanner :-(
Malcolm
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of J. C. O'Connell
Sent: 30 December 2001 17:32
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
WHY NOT SCAN THEM AND PRINT DIGITAL?
Hi Malcom ...
Without a copy stand it may be difficult to get good results, but you
can get results that are good enough, especially since you're working
with a limited time frame and limited equipment.
First, set the photo to be copied on a solid, flat surface - a hardwood
floor is ideal, but
I have not yet used the high speed sync mode (HSS) and skipped over that
area when reading the manual. However, my question is why is it
important for the usage you have described? It would seem to me that
HSS would only be used where the ambient light is your main light source
and the
You bet
Dave
Addiction grin?
Best regards to fellow addicts,
Ed M.
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
End Original Message
I have shot Finnish major league basketball with the LX and AF 280 T flash, no winder,
no motor drive - successfully - enough for a cover of a book. Do not worry! It can be
done.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
If you insist on rephotographing the prints, you will definitely need to
set up some rig to immobilize the subject and camera and allow critical
focusing. If the prints are not flat, you will also need to rig
something to keep them perfectly flat and use a cable release and mirror
lock up if
Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:
Carlos,
This question appeared in PDML during the first half of 2001. Someone wrote
that yes, you must use one of the filters; the filter is part of the lens
formula. I have assumed that this is true. I don't have a problem on my
Super Programs, so I've never
It's a pity that the seller only ships to the US ...
US PDMLers, go for it!
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316254850
--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
Just FYI, I've been without ready email access for most of December and
will probably stay that way for much of January as well. I'm afraid I
won't be organizing any PUG comments for January, so select ones yourself
and go crazy. :) I might be able to check mail periodically, but no
Do you have a flatbed scanner?
Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM
Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Hi everyone,
My mother was lent a box of photos
With my MZ-S and FA28-105, with shutter speed set manually, the AF360 shows
the following distances on the LCD panel:
1/180 70 ft
1/250 ~40ft
1/500 ~ 35 ft
1/1000 ~20 ft
This was with the lens set at max aperture (5.6) and ISO manually set at
800.
If it were me, I would go with 1/180, which
Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and
pay attention to the answers this time!):
How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives
before you scan them?
I've been trying to catch up on scanning slides with my new/used HP
PhotoSmart
While we are on the square format subject , I just picked up
(possibly a mistake) an argus 75 TWL for $15.00 - more out
of curiousity than anything else. IT takes 620
film...ergo..
but is 620 film still called that? I'd kinda like to try
this little antique out - anyone have any experience with
On 29 Dec 2001 at 22:57, John Mustarde wrote:
I've experimented with underlighting for some of my digital photos. I
set the objects on a lightbox to reduce shadows from the main light
source(s). A background could be added later, after the objects are
photographed to satisfaction.
Hi John,
I have to strongly agree with JC here. Scanning is the way to go with
old prints.
Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of J. C. O'Connell
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 12:32 PM
To: [EMAIL
I have heard of a number of people having trouble with sellers in Korea and
this seller has no feedback yet.
I'd be a bit weary :)
Cya
- Original Message -
From: Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:39 AM
Subject: Ebay: Black MX + Pentax
PEC-12 cleaning fluid applied sparingly with PEC Pads.
Maris
- Original Message -
From: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 3:15 PM
Subject: More on cleaning slides/negatives
| Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm
On 30 Dec 2001 at 16:15, Christian Skofteland wrote:
Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and
pay attention to the answers this time!):
How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives
before you scan them?
Hi Christian,
There are a
How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives
before you scan them?
Two words: Clone Tool
The scan doesn't have to be perfect dust-wise. I use a can of air to get big
particles out, and try to do as good as possible with that. Then I use
Photoshop's clone tool to
On 30 Dec 2001 at 16:56, Ann Sanfedele wrote:
While we are on the square format subject , I just picked up
(possibly a mistake) an argus 75 TWL for $15.00 - more out
of curiousity than anything else. IT takes 620
film...ergo..
but is 620 film still called that? I'd kinda like to try
this
What I do is this: I took a blower brush, removed the brush (it simply
slides off, easy to put back on again) and I blow the strip of negatives or
mounted slides (whatever I am scanning at that moment) after I have put them
in the scanning holder. Sometimes the scan result is so that I redo this
This particular seller posted 15 items in an hour. He is no newcomer
to ebay. Looks to me like someone with questionable feedback that just
changed his ID.
On Sunday 30 December 2001 16:15, Paul Jones wrote:
I have heard of a number of people having trouble with sellers in
Korea and this
Richard Seaman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Gianfranco,
Fantastic, you saved my life! I did, indeed, have the
flash set to
second curtain sync - seemed reasonable enough to me, but I
certainly didn´t
expect this strange result. The camera is now syncing at
1/250!
If I was Italian
Hi everybody,
I didn't want to come to this, but, for a lot of reasons, I've
postponed to comment on the PUG assignment shots once too long.
I hope you'll be so kind to be indulgent...
The Tower and the (Ghost) Church by Jaume Lahuerta.
I like it. There are many things I can point out (like
Use a tripod, cable release, and some sort of device that will hold the picture being
copied fairly flat. (A printing easel might be
a good thing to try) Try to light it from the left AND right with lamps of equal
brightness (keep the light from hitting the lens
if possible) with the lights
I would bet it is pretty dry in your house. That causes a lot of static on
the slide that holds the dust in place like a magnet. My experience is that
when the humidity is 60% or so the dust pretty much blows off with
compressed air. Short of humidifying the house you might try one of those
Shel,
The M28/2.0 is NOT a FREE lens (from observation).
I suppose you want to know about the K28/2.0.
Is there such an animal?
Regards, Bob S.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I understand - although I may be mistaken - that there were two versions
of this lens, one with the FREE (Fixed Rear
Len,
Sid has been a good contributor to our community.
Why would you think that he wouldn't try to help us if he could?
Regards, Bob S.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Do you think he'll tell us if he gets ripped off?
This kind of scam usually progresses to the point where he stops
the auction
Malcolm,
Short of getting hold of a tripod and a 100mm lens (macro or not), I would
think about taking the photos to a copier at the drug store. My sister has
made copies of old black white photos this way on their photo copier. It
isn't as satisfying as doing your own scans of the photos,
Hi Malcom ...
It's really hard to answer your question as everyone's idea of what's
needed is different, and everyone's idea of what's creative is
different. You ran into an unusual - perhaps once-in-a-lifetime -
situation, and that doesn't mean that you'll ever need a copy stand or a
macro
Yes, it is the K that interests me - and there certainly is such an
animal g
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The M28/2.0 is NOT a FREE lens (from observation).
I suppose you want to know about the K28/2.0.
Is there such an animal?
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have the K version. It is of classic construction, not
the 'FREE' type. Got it from a PDMLer from Europe.
Works just dandy for auroras.
Michel Adam
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Original Message-
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Sent: Sunday, 30 December, 2001 23:30
Subject:
With all the recent discussion about darkrooms and enlargers, I thought
this file might be of interest to some people on the list:
Calibrating Dichroic Heads for BW Printing - PDF file
You can find it in the newly created Darkroom section on my web site.
Just click on the URL below, find the
Here are the winners of the PDML 2001 Printer Challenge.
For those who have not been following this Challenge, it all started when I
told someone on the list I had never seen an inkjet print that I though
matched a photographic print. He said I had not seen one of his. I replied,
send me one.
Michel Adam schrieb:
I have the K version. It is of classic construction, not the 'FREE'
type. Got it from a PDMLer from Europe.
you mean to say: from meI now use the M28/f2. Both lenses are
not FREE designs. However, the K28/f2 has a floating element. This is
what the Color Foto
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