never used a single use camera but have tried with a
cheap £9.95 camera from jessop here in uk.
all that is needed is to remove the lens assembly and
with it the shutter
i worked in jessop in edinburgh form a while and a
customer was in the shop complaining how unsharp his
pics taken with this c
There is no reason to ensure the developer soaks both sides of the film.
Just put the film in the tube without the screen. If you are wanting to be
dilligent, wash the film in a tray to remove the anti-halation dye from the
back first. Then use the tube. I did the same, but in the end find tray
Well, I've converted several "near-disposable) cameras
(the $1 give-away type 35mm cameras from thrift
stores) by taking them apart, removing the shutter
blade(s) while leaving the shutter button & film
wind/lock mechanism. I then use black tape (my
favorite) or a home-made cardboard "lens cap" as
I put the screen in first and press it against the tube, then load the
film, emulsion side facing away from the screen and tube.
- Gregg
At 10:56 AM 6/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
Gregg wrote:
> I use a piece of plastic screening inside a tube to avoid the scratching
> and also allow the chemical
That's interesting: my first two tries were to just pull off the
lens/shutter and leave the advancer in place. I had a lot of problems with
that setup. I usually found that once I pulled off the back plate, when I
reassembled the camera the film wouldn't say engaged in the sprockets.
Also, it was a
Gregg wrote:
> I use a piece of plastic screening inside a tube to avoid the scratching
> and also allow the chemicals to cover both sides. I think I got this idea
> from someone's posting on the list a couple of years ago. It has worked
> pretty well. You can buy the screening at a hardware st
Can anyone offer a few tips regarding exposure compensation and ballpark
developing times for souping E-6 film in color negative chemistry?
thanks,
mike
I use a piece of plastic screening inside a tube to avoid the scratching
and also allow the chemicals to cover both sides. I think I got this idea
from someone's posting on the list a couple of years ago. It has worked
pretty well. You can buy the screening at a hardware store and just cut it
I think I know what you mean by uncoupling the shutter but I'm not sure.
And I'm probably telling you something you already know. If so forgive
me.
Most of the single-use cameras are similar and usually all you have to
do is remove the shutter "blade" (found in the lens assembly) and leave
the fil
The inside edges of the tube have to be very polished. I have had many a
tube that have felt smooth, but have scratched my film. The best way to get
around it is to keep sanding the edges with finer and finer sand paper, and
finally finish it off with steel wool. You could also try puttin your
f
Has anybody converted a new 35mm disposable camera into a pinhole
camera? I've been looking into this, but I haven't found a way of
uncoupling the shutter.
Guy
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Hash: SHA1
Gregg Kemp wrote:
|
| Dear fellow pinholers,
|
| The submission form for WPPD2 officially closed at midnight (GMT) with
| 902 people from 35 countries participating in this year's pinhole day
| on-line exhibition.
I very nearly missed it, as I didn'
Ilford includes wedge spectrograms for all their film and paper in their
data sheets. The only one I have at hand right now is for RC warmtone: the
range is about 350 - 550 nm, w. a sharp maximum at about 525. You can get
.pdfs from their other products on their website.
Liav K.
>Subject: Re: [
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