subject:"Re\: hugin"

Re: hugin

2017-08-12 Thread Brian Cluff

If you are using the Advanced interface you can pick the image that you 
want to be centered by going to the Photos tab and then right clicking 
on the image you want centered and select "Anchor this image for 
position".  The image will be centered after you optimize your panorama.


If you are using the Simple interface or you have clicked the GL preview 
icon you can select the Move/Drag tab and simply move/drag the image 
around till the image is centered in a way that you like it.


Brian Cluff


On 08/12/2017 03:06 PM, Michael wrote:
I make 360 panoramas and was wondering how you tell hugin which point to 
start the panorama from.


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Re: hugin

2016-08-20 Thread Brian Cluff

On 08/19/2016 05:51 PM, Michael wrote:

but it has 17 control points set.
It doesn't matter how many control points you have set if you have
parallax distortion between the 2 images. I've had images with 80
control points between them and it still can't stitch them successfully
because the control points don't makes sense because of the distortion.

You said I could rotate it in hugin? How does one do that?

In the preview, go to the MOve/Drag tab and drag the image with the
right mouse button and it will rotate.

Brian Cluff

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 4:24 PM, Brian Cluff > wrote:

I'd say that still fits with my answer. If you have one image
that it can't align it will be sitting on the preview in it's
default orientation.

Brian Cluff

On 08/19/2016 11:31 AM, Michael wrote:

I don't know if this is the problem but:
All of the pictures were taken in portrait orientation. In the
control point tab all of the images except one are in a landscape
orientation. The one image that is in that orientation is the
last image in that series and it is the image that is stretched.
Does that have any bearing in this problem?

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Brian Cluff mailto:br...@snaptek.com>> wrote:

Double check that you do indeed have control points between
every single image. It sounds like you might have a single
image that isn't connected in any way, or maybe only
partially connected and when it stitches it end up placed on
top of all your other images. The preview is just an OpenGL
preview of what you can expect to get but it works
differently than the final stitch so you can often times get
different results if your control points aren't all perfect.

You can check your layout tab in the fast panorama preview
(the GL preview button) and play with the scale. The layout
tab will quickly show you how your images are connected
together and how well. If you have any images that are just
floating out there with no lines then that's your culprit.
You will also want to look for images with very thin lines

going between the images. Thin lines represent weak
connections and you will need to increase the number of
control points between your images.

There is also a high probability, since you said you hand
held the camera when you took the pictures that even though
you picked matching spots in the image that there is no way
for the program to warp the images correctly due to parallax
distortion. If your images are of the inside of a room,
that's almost certainly the case.

Finding the no parallax point:

http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

You will have to get one of these and it will have to be
precisely setup correctly for your camera if you are going to
take pictures indoors. There is just no other way to do it:

https://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Panoramic-Horizontal-Vertical-Sunway/dp/B00RYNDMOC/ref=sr_1_11

https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Panoramic-Indexing-Rotator-Bracket/dp/B00PN8DY7K/ref=sr_1_14

https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMATE-degree-Panoramic-Bracket-Cameras/dp/B00PQH4OY0/ref=sr_1_32

There are a lot more out there, but these 3 are some of the
most affordable ones. I've got 2 of them; one made by
Manfrotto that cost a lot of money and is built like a tank
and I think it might weigh as much as a tank as well. I've
also got a Nodal Ninja that I really like that weighs a lot
less, which is why I got it, and does an equally good job for
a fraction of the money.

Brian Cluff

On 08/19/2016 06:27 AM, Michael wrote:

I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control
points between images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4 (each pair had
17). I had to go in and put control points for images 1 and
2. That was fine but when I stitch it all together the
picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama
image is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched
out. Any ideas how to fix this?

--
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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Michael

but it has 17 control points set. You said I could rotate it in hugin? How
does one do that?

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 4:24 PM, Brian Cluff  wrote:

> I'd say that still fits with my answer.  If you have one image that it
> can't align it will be sitting on the preview in it's default orientation.
>
> Brian Cluff
>
> On 08/19/2016 11:31 AM, Michael wrote:
>
> I don't know if this is the problem but:
> All of the pictures were taken in portrait orientation. In the control
> point tab all of the images except one are in a landscape orientation. The
> one image that is in that orientation is the last image in that series and
> it is the image that is stretched. Does that have any bearing in this
> problem?
>
> On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Brian Cluff  wrote:
>
>> Double check that you do indeed have control points between every single
>> image.  It sounds like you might have a single image that isn't connected
>> in any way, or maybe only partially connected and when it stitches it end
>> up placed on top of all your other images.  The preview is just an OpenGL
>> preview of what you can expect to get but it works differently than the
>> final stitch so you can often times get different results if your control
>> points aren't all perfect.
>>
>> You can check your layout tab in the fast panorama preview (the GL
>> preview button) and play with the scale.  The layout tab will quickly show
>> you how your images are connected together and how well.  If you have any
>> images that are just floating out there with no lines then that's your
>> culprit.  You will also want to look for images with very thin lines going
>> between the images.  Thin lines represent weak connections and you will
>> need to increase the number of control points between your images.
>>
>> There is also a high probability, since you said you hand held the camera
>> when you took the pictures that even though you picked matching spots in
>> the image that there is no way for the program to warp the images
>> correctly due to parallax distortion.  If your images are of the inside of
>> a room, that's almost certainly the case.
>>
>> Finding the no parallax point:
>>
>> http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
>>
>> You will have to get one of these and it will have to be precisely setup
>> correctly for your camera if you are going to take pictures indoors.  There
>> is just no other way to do it:
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Panoramic-Horizontal-
>> Vertical-Sunway/dp/B00RYNDMOC/ref=sr_1_11
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Panoramic-Indexing-Rotator-
>> Bracket/dp/B00PN8DY7K/ref=sr_1_14
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMATE-degree-Panoramic-Bracket-
>> Cameras/dp/B00PQH4OY0/ref=sr_1_32
>>
>> There are a lot more out there, but these 3 are some of the most
>> affordable ones.  I've got 2 of them; one made by Manfrotto that cost a lot
>> of money and is built like a tank and I think it might weigh as much as a
>> tank as well.  I've also got a Nodal Ninja that I really like that weighs a
>> lot less, which is why I got it, and does an equally good job for a
>> fraction of the money.
>> Brian Cluff
>>
>>
>> On 08/19/2016 06:27 AM, Michael wrote:
>>
>> I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points between
>> images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to go in and put
>> control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I stitch it all
>> together the picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama image
>> is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to
>> fix this?
>>
>> --
>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>
>>
>> ---
>> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org
>> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail 
>> settings:http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss
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>> man/listinfo/plug-discuss
>
> --
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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Brian Cluff

I'd say that still fits with my answer.  If you have one image that it 
can't align it will be sitting on the preview in it's default orientation.


Brian Cluff


On 08/19/2016 11:31 AM, Michael wrote:

I don't know if this is the problem but:
All of the pictures were taken in portrait orientation. In the control 
point tab all of the images except one are in a landscape orientation. 
The one image that is in that orientation is the last image in that 
series and it is the image that is stretched. Does that have any 
bearing in this problem?


On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Brian Cluff > wrote:


Double check that you do indeed have control points between every
single image.  It sounds like you might have a single image that
isn't connected in any way, or maybe only partially connected and
when it stitches it end up placed on top of all your other
images.  The preview is just an OpenGL preview of what you can
expect to get but it works differently than the final stitch so
you can often times get different results if your control points
aren't all perfect.

You can check your layout tab in the fast panorama preview (the GL
preview button) and play with the scale.  The layout tab will
quickly show you how your images are connected together and how
well.  If you have any images that are just floating out there
with no lines then that's your culprit.  You will also want to
look for images with very thin lines going between the images. 
Thin lines represent weak connections and you will need to

increase the number of control points between your images.

There is also a high probability, since you said you hand held the
camera when you took the pictures that even though you picked
matching spots in the image that there is no way for the program
to warp the images correctly due to parallax distortion.  If your
images are of the inside of a room, that's almost certainly the case.

Finding the no parallax point:

http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm


You will have to get one of these and it will have to be precisely
setup correctly for your camera if you are going to take pictures
indoors.  There is just no other way to do it:


https://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Panoramic-Horizontal-Vertical-Sunway/dp/B00RYNDMOC/ref=sr_1_11




https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Panoramic-Indexing-Rotator-Bracket/dp/B00PN8DY7K/ref=sr_1_14




https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMATE-degree-Panoramic-Bracket-Cameras/dp/B00PQH4OY0/ref=sr_1_32



There are a lot more out there, but these 3 are some of the most
affordable ones.  I've got 2 of them; one made by Manfrotto that
cost a lot of money and is built like a tank and I think it might
weigh as much as a tank as well.  I've also got a Nodal Ninja that
I really like that weighs a lot less, which is why I got it, and
does an equally good job for a fraction of the money.

Brian Cluff


On 08/19/2016 06:27 AM, Michael wrote:

I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points
between images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to
go in and put control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine
but when I stitch it all together the picture on the ball seems
fine but the resultin panorama image is one of the five photos of
the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to fix this?

-- 
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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Michael

I don't know if this is the problem but:
All of the pictures were taken in portrait orientation. In the control
point tab all of the images except one are in a landscape orientation. The
one image that is in that orientation is the last image in that series and
it is the image that is stretched. Does that have any bearing in this
problem?

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Brian Cluff  wrote:

> Double check that you do indeed have control points between every single
> image.  It sounds like you might have a single image that isn't connected
> in any way, or maybe only partially connected and when it stitches it end
> up placed on top of all your other images.  The preview is just an OpenGL
> preview of what you can expect to get but it works differently than the
> final stitch so you can often times get different results if your control
> points aren't all perfect.
>
> You can check your layout tab in the fast panorama preview (the GL preview
> button) and play with the scale.  The layout tab will quickly show you how
> your images are connected together and how well.  If you have any images
> that are just floating out there with no lines then that's your culprit.
> You will also want to look for images with very thin lines going between
> the images.  Thin lines represent weak connections and you will need to
> increase the number of control points between your images.
>
> There is also a high probability, since you said you hand held the camera
> when you took the pictures that even though you picked matching spots in
> the image that there is no way for the program to warp the images
> correctly due to parallax distortion.  If your images are of the inside of
> a room, that's almost certainly the case.
>
> Finding the no parallax point:
>
> http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
>
> You will have to get one of these and it will have to be precisely setup
> correctly for your camera if you are going to take pictures indoors.  There
> is just no other way to do it:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Panoramic-Horizontal-Vertical-Sunway/dp/
> B00RYNDMOC/ref=sr_1_11
>
> https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Panoramic-Indexing-
> Rotator-Bracket/dp/B00PN8DY7K/ref=sr_1_14
>
> https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMATE-degree-Panoramic-
> Bracket-Cameras/dp/B00PQH4OY0/ref=sr_1_32
>
> There are a lot more out there, but these 3 are some of the most
> affordable ones.  I've got 2 of them; one made by Manfrotto that cost a lot
> of money and is built like a tank and I think it might weigh as much as a
> tank as well.  I've also got a Nodal Ninja that I really like that weighs a
> lot less, which is why I got it, and does an equally good job for a
> fraction of the money.
> Brian Cluff
>
>
> On 08/19/2016 06:27 AM, Michael wrote:
>
> I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points between
> images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to go in and put
> control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I stitch it all
> together the picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama image
> is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to
> fix this?
>
> --
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
>
> ---
> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org
> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail 
> settings:http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss
>
>
>
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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Brian Cluff

Double check that you do indeed have control points between every single
image. It sounds like you might have a single image that isn't
connected in any way, or maybe only partially connected and when it
stitches it end up placed on top of all your other images. The preview
is just an OpenGL preview of what you can expect to get but it works
differently than the final stitch so you can often times get different
results if your control points aren't all perfect.

You can check your layout tab in the fast panorama preview (the GL
preview button) and play with the scale. The layout tab will quickly
show you how your images are connected together and how well. If you
have any images that are just floating out there with no lines then
that's your culprit. You will also want to look for images with very
thin lines going between the images. Thin lines represent weak
connections and you will need to increase the number of control points
between your images.

There is also a high probability, since you said you hand held the
camera when you took the pictures that even though you picked matching
spots in the image that there is no way for the program to warp the
images correctly due to parallax distortion. If your images are of the
inside of a room, that's almost certainly the case.

Finding the no parallax point:

http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

You will have to get one of these and it will have to be precisely setup
correctly for your camera if you are going to take pictures indoors.
There is just no other way to do it:

https://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Panoramic-Horizontal-Vertical-Sunway/dp/B00RYNDMOC/ref=sr_1_11

https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Panoramic-Indexing-Rotator-Bracket/dp/B00PN8DY7K/ref=sr_1_14

https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMATE-degree-Panoramic-Bracket-Cameras/dp/B00PQH4OY0/ref=sr_1_32

There are a lot more out there, but these 3 are some of the most
affordable ones. I've got 2 of them; one made by Manfrotto that cost a
lot of money and is built like a tank and I think it might weigh as much
as a tank as well. I've also got a Nodal Ninja that I really like that
weighs a lot less, which is why I got it, and does an equally good job
for a fraction of the money.

Brian Cluff

On 08/19/2016 06:27 AM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points
between images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4 (each pair had 17). I had to go in
and put control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I
stitch it all together the picture on the ball seems fine but the
resultin panorama image is one of the five photos of the panorama
stretched out. Any ideas how to fix this?

--
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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Stephen Partington

This might help you with the question i am asking.

http://www.panoramafactory.com/discus/messages/10/90.html

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 7:01 AM, Michael  wrote:

> if you mean just stand in one place and rotate around then yes.
>
> On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 9:58 AM, Stephen Partington 
> wrote:
>
>> Did you shoot a spherical image set or some other geometry?
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 6:27 AM, Michael  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points between
>>> images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to go in and put
>>> control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I stitch it all
>>> together the picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama image
>>> is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to
>>> fix this?
>>>
>>> --
>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>
>>> ---
>>> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org
>>> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail settings:
>>> http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from
>> rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.
>>
>> Stephen
>>
>>
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>
>
>
> --
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>
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rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.

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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Michael

if you mean just stand in one place and rotate around then yes.

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 9:58 AM, Stephen Partington 
wrote:

> Did you shoot a spherical image set or some other geometry?
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 6:27 AM, Michael  wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points between
>> images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to go in and put
>> control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I stitch it all
>> together the picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama image
>> is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to
>> fix this?
>>
>> --
>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>
>> ---
>> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org
>> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail settings:
>> http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss
>>
>
>
>
> --
> A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from
> rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.
>
> Stephen
>
>
> ---
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Re: hugin

2016-08-19 Thread Stephen Partington

Did you shoot a spherical image set or some other geometry?


On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 6:27 AM, Michael  wrote:

> I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points between
> images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to go in and put
> control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I stitch it all
> together the picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama image
> is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to
> fix this?
>
> --
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> ---
> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org
> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail settings:
> http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss
>



-- 
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rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.

Stephen
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Re: hugin

2016-06-22 Thread Michael

luminance hdr works again. I wonder what changed?

On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 5:46 PM, Brian Cluff  wrote:

> When you do the final stitching you have to check off what kind of output
> you want.  By default it will give you a jpg or tiff, but if you look
> further down the  stitching page you will find "High dynamic range merged
> stacks".
>
> That being said, I don't think that this is what you think it is.  That
> will output a HDR file which is an image that contains a lot more light
> data than can be viewed directly in an image viewer.  They are used heavily
> in programs like blender or in video games.
>
> What you are looking for is called tone mapping where you compress a
> broader level of light data into a visible space, which is what
> LuminanceHDR does.
>
> I would stick with LuminanceHDR and just use it's interface to hugin to
> align images properly.
>
> doing it the other way around you would still have to load the HDR file
> that hugin makes into LuminanceHDR so that you could get a visible image
> out of it.
>
> All that being said, you could select the "Exposure fused stack" option in
> hugin and get an HDR image, but you have little to no control of how the
> output will look, so you are better off using LuminanceHDR again.
>
> Brian Cluff
>
>
> On 06/22/2016 02:22 PM, Michael wrote:
>
> I just found out you can do HDR with hugin.
>
> How do you do it? I found the instructions but:
>
>1. Take bracketed  shots of your
>scene.
>done
>
>2. Open bracketed images in Hugin. Align - let's say - the middle
>exposures together and set the stacks in the *Images* tab.
>   1. If your stacks don't align (shot hand-held, sloppy panohead,
>   etc.), set some control points inside stacks and align them too.
>   done not sure about 'set[ting] the stack in the *Images* tab'
>
>   3. Stitch the panorama with hugin 
> and
>done
>4. enblend  to HDR file.
>not done. how?
>5.
>6. Optionally tonemap the result with qtpfsgui
>.
>
>
> --
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
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Re: hugin

2016-06-22 Thread Brian Cluff

When you do the final stitching you have to check off what kind of 
output you want.  By default it will give you a jpg or tiff, but if you 
look further down the  stitching page you will find "High dynamic range 
merged stacks".


That being said, I don't think that this is what you think it is. That 
will output a HDR file which is an image that contains a lot more light 
data than can be viewed directly in an image viewer. They are used 
heavily in programs like blender or in video games.


What you are looking for is called tone mapping where you compress a 
broader level of light data into a visible space, which is what 
LuminanceHDR does.


I would stick with LuminanceHDR and just use it's interface to hugin to 
align images properly.


doing it the other way around you would still have to load the HDR file 
that hugin makes into LuminanceHDR so that you could get a visible image 
out of it.


All that being said, you could select the "Exposure fused stack" option 
in hugin and get an HDR image, but you have little to no control of how 
the output will look, so you are better off using LuminanceHDR again.


Brian Cluff

On 06/22/2016 02:22 PM, Michael wrote:

I just found out you can do HDR with hugin.

How do you do it? I found the instructions but:

 1. Take bracketed  shots of
your scene.
done

 2. Open bracketed images in Hugin. Align - let's say - the middle
exposures together and set the stacks in the /Images/ tab.
 1. If your stacks don't align (shot hand-held, sloppy panohead,
etc.), set some control points inside stacks and align them too.
done not sure about 'set[ting] the stack in the /Images/ tab'

 3. Stitch the panorama with hugin  and
done
 4. enblend  to HDR file.
not done. how?
5.

 6. Optionally tonemap the result with qtpfsgui
.


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