The deal with the Microshift thumb shifters and the IRDs is that they work
great. I've tried both at the shop, and been happy enough. There is an
alternative though; Sunrace thumb shifters (and NOT the ones Riv sells) can
be had in 8 or 9 speed indexed for $28 retail per side, or $56 for a
The Pixeo is pretty good, definitely bright enough, but has a weak point on
the inside, where the threaded plate is retained by plastic channels. If
you tighten beyond snug, the plate rounds out the channels and spins
freely. Then you have to disassemble the light and hold the plate manually
I think this was mentioned somewhere when I was preparing to buy my frame,
couldn't find any mention of it on the present day hillborne page. Hasn't
failed yet. I love my bike.
-Kai
Brooklyn NY
On Monday, September 22, 2014 9:54:23 AM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
My Sam Hillborne's tig welded.
I've never measured the Q factor of the cranksets I've ridden but I do know
some are more comfortable than others. As a very broad person with wide
hips and shoulders, I suspect those that have felt good tended to be higher
Q cranks. Right now I'm running a modern 9-speed Deore crankset and I
W/r/t Q:
My current crankset, a Sugino PX double on a 118 BB, feels significantly
narrower in terms of Q than my last few (last one on the same bike was an
Ultegra 6500-series road double on the standard spindle, I forget the size,
last other was a Sugino XD triple on a 113). It's not really
For those wanting friction thumbies on the cheap there's also the Falcon
ones.
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This thread was interesting at first but got way off topic BUT there is a green
56 cm Sam on Ebay and it's in FL. One thing to glean from this thread is that
there is not one bike to rule them all. Buy ittry itsell it.
FW,
CBB
Sam rider who just bought a Quickbeam that will replace his
A search for something else lead me to this cassette, of who's
existence I was unaware of.
Besides the obvious attraction of being available cheap, it's also got
an 11 tooth on the cluster, which Shimano's doesn't, e.g., theirs is
12-36.
You might say this is un-Rivendell-ish to worry about such
Possibly correct, but completely beside the point of this topic.
The Blug post in question appears to state tubes which in other Rivs are
joined with lugs will be Tig welded.
While there may be an outlier somewhere, dropouts typically are not joined
to the chainstay with lugs. I am aware of
Conway has a point. I know a guy who bought a Raleigh International new in 1972
and
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Soma San Marcos has lugged dropouts on the rear. You can see the sockets
in the 2nd and 3rd pictures on rivbike.com.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
Possibly correct, but completely beside the point of this topic.
The Blug post in question appears to
If you like quill stems, then by all means
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To post to this
I'm almost certain the Sunrace indexed thumb shifters are Microshift
as well, I have one set of 9 speed indexed Microshift bar-ends and
they look exactly identical to the Sunrace shifters (and the IRDs as
well...).
But it's good of you to point this out because Sunrace gear is usually
sold at a
Yeah, Kai, I bit on your comment My Sam Hillborne's tig welded. If you
had said I think the rear dropout on my Sam Hillborne might be tig welded
I wouldn't have bit. It's kind of hard to tell from your phone-photo, but
it looks like your MUSA-Sam has the same rear dropouts as my Hilsen, which
My wife has the battery powered Pixeo on her bike, and it's been great!
Bright LED with a sharp center focus but adequate side emission. Really
nice auto-on and standlight feature means she never turns it on or off, it
just comes on when needed. She hasn't replaced the battery in three years.
I'll back off on my normal over-tightening technique!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 11:33 PM, Scot Brooks scothinck...@gmail.com
wrote:
The Pixeo is pretty good, definitely bright enough, but has a weak point
on the inside,
I think a person who's relatively new to bikes should understand that
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That sounds like a really cool drivetrain. Great find. I haven't used
that 11-36, but I'll consider it in the future for sure.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:24:42 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
A search for something else lead me to this cassette, of who's
existence I was unaware of.
I think the Pixeo is full on awesome. List its features and I'm surprised
it's under $50. But instead of being $50, it is $15. I'm still shocked
how inexpensive it is. That's like free money. Tell me you don't like
free money. :)
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:44:11 AM UTC-7, Anton
I'd like to anti-recommend the dynohub approach. I considered it when
building my Sam, but rejected it for a couple of reasons:
1. They're expensive!
2. You pay the wattage tax whether you're using the thing or not. The
Interwebs say that the drag costs anywhere from 2 to 15 watts of additional
My favorite rides are a couple of Bridgestones. Like many other non-Riv
owners I read this group every day - enjoying the vibe and learning as I go
along. If I keep the Bridgestones, sell the other bikes and save a few
dollars, then a Clem might be the bike for me. If Grant wants to spread the
I just noticed that Outside Outfitters has 42 highway one bars in stock.
On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 5:01:24 AM UTC-7, Jack K wrote:
Hi RBW'ers,
I've scoured the interwebs looking for a Soma Highway 1 bar, but they
apear to be out of stock everywhere -- even on Soma's own web store. I'm
@conway,
Thanks! The Sam you saw on EBay is actually right here in Tampa. I sent him a
message to see if I can see it first.
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OK, if a new frame is out, I would try a dirt drop or periscopa stem with a
handle bar that has some rise and a little bit of sweep. The slightly swept
back bar would account for the slight bit more of forward extension, caused
by the new stem. The stem and the rise of bar might bring her
Bump before I put it up on local craigslist
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To post to this
I think there's a possibility there are no standard stems that will allow
her to sit comfortably on that frame with a regular handlebar. It need to
be really, really tall... Maybe the same stem with a long, 100-130 mm
extension, and a high riser bar with moderate back sweep? The albatross bar
Surly uses those shifters on the Pugsley. My friend Ron has a Pugsley and
still raves about the shifters.
Jason Cloutier
Pawtucket, RI
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:19:07 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
Anyone tried these?
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:04:10 AM UTC+2, Peter M wrote:
I thought since some of the Rivendell models have bowed chainstays you
could only have so low of a q factor. Or I might be totally wrong too.
The chainstays are of course setting the limit for the crank arms. But with
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 7:18:54 PM UTC+2, Doug Van Cleve wrote:
For an upright bar setup, with typical RBW bar height, the frame size has
very little to do with anything. A tall Nitto stem and upright bars will
work fine, even on a smallish frame IMHO.
But with a frame as small
I happened to burn one out during dynamo testing--I had the whole lighting
system wired up in parallel for easier cable runs, then switched off the
headlight, so the Pixeo got all the power of a dynohub. It was gone. One
of the nicest things about getting a new one was being able to unscrew
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 1:25 PM, Johan Larsson seven.nau...@gmail.com wrote:
But with a frame as small as this, there are no stems that are tall enough
that a wide bar with moderate back sweep would work if you want to sit
fairly upright.
Nitto NTC-280?
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You received this message because
This thread seems to have started as a holy crap! Rivendell might introduce
tig welding on their bikes!!. Nowhere did I see any statement to the effect
that they may have already in the past. And I'm just saying that I thought I
might have noticed a mention of it as a way to keep the cost down
You can always buy it, and if you like it, but absolutely want it new or the 55
cm 1TT just resell it. You should be able to move it quick and get your money
back. But for the price of a repaint, which isn't necessary but'll essentially
make it new, you'll come out of this for less than a new
I don't think you sullied anything. I just misunderstood your original
post. I apologize for misunderstanding it. Tig welding is awesome. My
(Waterford) Gunnar is tig welded at all the frame tubing joints and is
awesome. Your (Waterford) Sam might feature tig welds at the dropouts and
is
In the T setting, only the daytime light (tagelicht, in German) comes on,
even in the dark. In the S (sensor) setting, the full light comes on when it
gets dark and the daytime light is otherwise on all the time. O, as you note,
is off.
The Edeluxe has a sensor setting, which I never used.
All hail nonconsumable electrodes!! For real. Tig welds can be done right,
or not. I myself only make bad ones.
Thanks Bill, I never thought your misunderstanding was wrong, I'm often
ununderstandable, sometimes on purpose, sometimes not. Specifically, I
thought Mr J's Possibly correct, but
On 09/25/2014 12:25 PM, Kainalu wrote:
All hail nonconsumable electrodes!! For real. Tig welds can be done
right, or not. I myself only make bad ones.
Thanks Bill, I never thought your misunderstanding was wrong, I'm
often ununderstandable, sometimes on purpose, sometimes not.
Are you doing
Not an untruth, but rather a beside the point.
The post is in response to a Rivendell Blug comment that a new bike will
Tig some joints that in other Rivs are lugged. There is no way Riv would
have commented on this at all if the Tig welding in question was the rear
dropouts.
On Thursday,
I sense a Pixeo in my future!
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:09:00 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
I think the Pixeo is full on awesome. List its features and I'm surprised
it's under $50. But instead of being $50, it is $15. I'm still shocked
how inexpensive it is. That's like free
With the new SON deluxe hubs, the drag is imperceptible, even with the
light on. This was not the case with the earlier SON hubs or any
generation of Shimano hubs.
On Sep 25, 2014 10:09 AM, Wayne Mesard wmes...@gmail.com wrote:
I'd like to anti-recommend the dynohub approach. I considered it
Actually the drag on the Ultegra level Shimano dynohubs (DH 3N72 and
higher) is so negligible that perception of it depends more on mood than
anything objective. A front wheel, lifted and spun, doesn't rotate quite as
long as with the SON Deluxe, but when riding you don't feel it. Ditto for
the
Whoops, I see my error. Don't know what a Soubitez or Union or Sanyo bottle
requires in watts if properly set up, since mechanical friction accompanies
magnet drag. But no modern hub dynanmo requires 15 w.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 1:06 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
In fact, I
I have three bikes with dynamo hubs:
SONdelux / 650B
Shimano 3n72 / 650B
Shimano 3n72 / 700C
I can't tell if I have my lights on on the bike with the SONdelux.
I can DEFINITELY feel the drag with my lights on on both bikes with the
Shimano.
Worse than the drag, I can feel the Shimano dynohub
Not my experience after 3 of the Shimanos, either with drag or vibration. I
get more vibration with my SON 20 R and my SP.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 1:12 PM, Anton Tutter atut...@gmail.com wrote:
I have three bikes with dynamo hubs:
SONdelux / 650B
Shimano 3n72 / 650B
Shimano 3n72 / 700C
I
Jim:
Check the e-bay info again. It says 11-*34*. IIRC, that's a fairly
common cassette from several sources. The price is attractive, though. A
4:1 highest ratio isn't crazy either.
dougP
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:24:42 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
A search for something else
For me, there is indeed a difference between dynamo and no dynamo. One of the
reasons I've switched (for now) to the Velogical rim dynamo.
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I ordered a Kryptonite New York standard U-lock when they were 20% off.
It should arrive soon.
Now I'm thinking I might be better off getting the Messenger Mini set
instead and get a pitlock for the rear wheel seat post. I usually lock
the bike up for a short time for lunch or to go into a
I just saw TIG welding and assumed that referred to tig welding, not
knowing that some tig welding isn't, or that it might be shouldn't when it
wasn't.
In other words, I read into what's been said as TIG is something Rivendell
would never use, not knowing that TIG welding is something many
...just click the link and scroll down a scoche/smidge:
http://www.roadbikerider.com/top
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He runs his pressures high, at 150 lb: 25s at 100, 32s at 80. I run my 23s
at sub 90/100 and my 30s at 60/70, and I'm 170-175.
But that aside, good review. Wish he'd also reviewed the Roadeo.
Note that if the Stampedes are anywhere as nearly thin as the old Parigi
Roubaix, they *will not be
On 09/25/2014 05:53 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
He runs his pressures high, at 150 lb: 25s at 100, 32s at 80. I run my
23s at sub 90/100 and my 30s at 60/70, and I'm 170-175.
But that aside, good review. Wish he'd also reviewed the Roadeo.
Note that if the Stampedes are anywhere as nearly thin
Oh, OK, so they're beefier. I ride Kojaks on the other Riv and while they
suffer punctures regularly, they don't get one every 5 miles as did the
P-Rs.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On 09/25/2014 05:53 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
He runs his pressures
David,
I have an earlier version of this:
http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/vis-180/vis-180-brown-shugga
It is fantastic. It can either be 'on' (steady on, no flash), or 'pulse'
which does not flash, but rather 'glows' on and off. It comes with the
standard seat post/tube
I currently have a Sackville Bar Sack on my AHH but want something bigger so
I'm looking to go large Berthoud. That means I need a rack and I like the
Mark's. So I gave Jan at Compass my dimensions (340mm from the brake mount on
the fork crown to the center of my Noodle bars) and he said the
It is kind of tricky setting up a decaleur because of all the weird
measurements you need to take.
Comparison bike: My Hillborne (56cm). It measures 310mm from the center
of the brake bolt on the fork crown to the center of my Noodle bars. My
front rack is a custom, but one that is
On 09/25/2014 06:51 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
So I think you'd be golden. You might even be able to get away with a
H91. Jan said custom because I think the traditional way is to have
the top of your bag at or even a little above the bars.
Easier to do when your bars are significantly
Glad to see you move past the lurking stage!!!
Looks like a good idea. I've thought bout trying to do something similar
with the Superflash, but Shugga looks like it lends itself to that a lot
more. I'm going to try the Pixeo but if it isn't bright enough, this is an
option.
Thanks!
On
Nice Quickbeam watercolor sent to me by another RBW list member showed in this
photo that I tweeted out this morning.
CampyOnlyGuy (@Campyonlyguy)
9/25/14, 10:57 AM
Lined up at 10:55 am. pic.twitter.com/nT9Lu6ZGGZ
via Tweetbot
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
That's good info, Bill, thanks. Jan suggested Loyal but I'm having trouble
getting in touch with him by phone or email. I kind of think I wouldn't mind
the bag a little below the bars. The Sackville is level or even a little above
and I think I'd like it lower. Mostly, though, I think I'd just
Contact me off list and I can get you directly in touch with Phil at Loyal,
if that's what you want to pursue.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 4:18:09 PM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
That's good info, Bill, thanks. Jan suggested Loyal but I'm having trouble
getting in touch with him by phone or
I stand by what I said, whatever it was I said.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 1:58:09 PM UTC-7, Kainalu wrote:
I just saw TIG welding and assumed that referred to tig welding, not
knowing that some tig welding isn't, or that it might be shouldn't when it
wasn't.
In other words, I read
Steve asks ... is there *any* pneumatic tire, ..., that would be usable
in goathead country without sealant?
I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of something
under the tread would suffice.
e.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-city-tyre-2013/
Bring back good 'ol electro-forging I say!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Kainalu kaiviers...@gmail.com wrote:
I just saw TIG welding and assumed that referred to tig welding, not
knowing that some tig welding isn't, or
On 09/25/2014 09:00 PM, ted wrote:
Steve asks ... is there /any/ pneumatic tire, ..., that would be
usable in goathead country without sealant?
I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of
something under the tread would suffice.
e.g.
Yes it is hard to tell scale from the photo you used (btw where/how did you
get it).
But the spines on goatheads are nothing like 2cm
long.
http://www.cottoncrc.org.au/industry/Publications/Weeds/Weed_IdentificationTools/Weeds_by_common_names/Cathead
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:50:24 PM
Hi Peter
I also have this light and love it (I still have a dyno powered tail light
as well). I would offer the caution that I have had it fall off its
mounting, be it a leather or fabric loop, several times. Even if I have
cinched it down as tight as possible with the mount. I have taken to
Hey Doug,
Scroll down and you will see the 11-36 that he referred to. I am running
the 12-36 Shimano with a triple and still miss the 11. I am going to try
this to see if it helps.
Of course I am not only slow but old.
Dennis in PDX
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 1:03:19 PM UTC-7, dougP
Those might resist goatheads -- not certain from the photo -- but they look
as if they would be death to ride.
Several of the local remedies: best: Stan's, tubeless for low pressure
tires. Worse: Thick tire liners; the local roadies, pre-Stan's, would cut
the bead of a used racing tire and use it
BTW, that close-up Steve posted is nothing. I've come out of the bosque
with literally hundreds in my tires -- as thick as ants on a carcase.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:25 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
Those might resist goatheads -- not certain from the photo -- but they
look as
Oh snaps, just looked at the price on that one!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:18 PM, Dennis Hogan hoga...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Peter
I also have this light and love it (I still have a dyno powered tail light
as well). I would
Hi Bill,
Just doing some research reading about brakes and came across your update.
You mention that the DC 610's work, even work well. Then you say the
1970's restoration with Dia Compes are really powerful. What do you think
is the difference here? I would guess that both Dia Compe brake
I think goat head thorns are in the 3 to 8mm range. The marathon smartguard
blue layer is 5mm add some tread thickness and casing and I think they have
a chance against even goatheads.
Whether or not you want to ride tires like that is a whole different
question. Some folks don't seem to mind
Did I paint that? In any case, I like it!
I like the clock, too.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
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I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
Oh snaps, just looked at the price on that one!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:18 PM,
The picture scares me! I put thorn proof tubes in my wife's tires and they
worked. Sixty plus thorns in the tubes before I stopped counting. No flats.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
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Had to look that one up!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com
I only know it from reading the online photographer blog (used to have a
sidebar add for RBW and the author consulted G on some bike stuff btw).
The term came up in connection with Leica if I recall correctly.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:05:48 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
Had to
S, don't give it away!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:15 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
I only know it from reading the online photographer blog (used to have a
sidebar add for RBW and the author consulted G on some
ooops
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:19:09 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
S, don't give it away!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:15 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
I only know it from reading
The e-bay system is a dynamic situation. When I clicked this AM on the
link from Jim, it came up with the 11-34 @ $23. NOW, click the same link
it says original item has ended. We have selected another similar item
below. Sure enough, there is an 11-36 (this one for $36; still not a bad
You may have. It's been a few years since it was given to me.
The clock is a vintage item from a mid-century modern store in midtown
Sacramento.
–Eric N
Sent from my iPhone 5S
On Sep 25, 2014, at 7:56 PM, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
wrote:
Did I paint that? In any
Aaron, I'd just defer back to Brian's post. It's a system. Everything
matters. Rims brakepads levers cables housing. Especially the placement of
the bridges. Everything.
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Hey Bunch,
I'm looking for some new Canti's and specifically want a set that will open
nice and wide to avoid having to deflate large tires when putting the wheel
in and out. Riv sells the Shimano CX-70 that do this well apparently. Are
there other suggestions though as those are $120 per pair.
So a particular brake may work well on a certain bike, but put the same
brake on another frame and you may get different results. Got it.
Thanks,
Aaron
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:51 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
Aaron, I'd just defer back to Brian's post. It's a system.
I had a fenderbot and was not impressed. Not very bright at all. Nowhere
close to my PDW radbot 1000 or a standard Planet Bike Superflash.
Dan Abelson
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:58:03 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com
wrote:
Any feedback on these:
I think it's showing you an 11-34 because I already bought that 11-36
:p and it was the last one that particular seller had.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291245023787
http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBidsLoginitem=291245023787rt=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2564
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 3:03 PM,
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 10:30 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
The point seems to be to jump on a good
deal when it pops up. I recently stumbled onto the 12-34 8 speed for around
$25 picked up one since it looked like a decent deal.
dougP
Same seems to be true for Rivendell frames, pick
Tektro CR720?
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 10:59 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:
Hey Bunch,
I'm looking for some new Canti's and specifically want a set that will open
nice and wide to avoid having to deflate large tires when putting the wheel
in and out. Riv sells the Shimano CX-70
88 matches
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