I prefer bar end shifting. Indexed or friction. I've got one of each.
Also a bike with down-tube friction shifters. Once I remembered how to do
it, everything worked fine. But I really prefer bar end shifting.
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:09:21 PM UTC-8, lungimsam wrote:
If I love
Hey Curtis, dual bad news... I haven't found a bike and I'm not convinced I'll
be wrapped from work by 530pm. Thurs would be better for me but I'm still
probably bike-less. What do you think - next time?
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners
I'm with you Glen. When DT shifters were it, I was enjoying mountain biking
and my shifters right there on the bar, by the brake levers. I have longer
legs than my torso would dictate to production frame and my 60 cm road
bike always had me feeling a little unsteady; those shifters were so far
Please allow me to dissent. I resisted DT shifters like the plague, but
three things brought me around to friction DT. You may or may not agree
with my rationale:
1. Simplicity. Other than having no shifters at all, DT friction is the
simplest approach.
2. Relatedly, reliability in all
Riding, besides my commutes, get a bit scant from here on out through
winter. The season, the holidays, more deliberate prep for a trip in the
conditions, plenty of things distract from just a nice ride but I realize
that at this time every year I always seem to contemplate a bike project to
I think it depends on the kind of riding you will be doing. I used bar
ends for the 13 years I commuted into work surrounded by rush hour traffic.
I liked the security of not leaving the handle bars or being far from the
brake levers. For a similar reason I use BEs on the tandem because the
I'm doing a 650B conversion of my '83 Trek 620, too much reading BQ, I
guess. Parts are already on the way.
I'm also thinking about ordering a custom Chinese titanium 29+ frame.
Eric
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 5:37 AM, ascpgh asc@gmail.com wrote:
Riding, besides my commutes, get a bit scant
On 12/17/2014 12:09 AM, lungimsam wrote:
If I love friction bar end shifting, will I find friction DT shifting just as
easy and enjoyable?
Maybe, maybe not. For me, not.
Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult
Exactly. For some people, when they drop
Thursday is out for me. Next time it is.
Safe travels
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014, Tony DeFilippo vpi...@gmail.com wrote:
Hey Curtis, dual bad news... I haven't found a bike and I'm not convinced
I'll be wrapped from work by 530pm. Thurs would be better for me but I'm
still probably
'm going to swap out Albas for noodles. Thanks for the help so far and for
these questions.
I've never been a racer, always a rider and have loved my Albas for the last
two years on my sam， but wanted a new bike and thought this was a cheaper way
to go. Intrigued by more positions, I'm going
Agree on the grew up with DT shifting. Of course have both and both are
natural for me. Current DT is on my go-fast - it's natural for me on that
ride, though I do shift less often. Never had a problem with my long
spindly limbs. I have bar ends on my utility bike with moustache cockpit,
I use DT shifters in traffic (90% of my riding is commuting) so I don't think
that's a factor for me. Of course I do have arms like a gorilla, so reaching
the shifters had never been a problem for me.
I probably shift less than I did with BE, Ergo, etc. I do miss my old Command
Shifters, but
My Hunqapillar has barend shifters, and I really like them, except when I knock
them against the doorframe getting the bike in and out of the garage. When I
built up my Atlantis this fall, I went with downtube shifters mostly because of
cost-containment. I like the clean lines, and I like how
ebay bike parts scalper, who has Riv water bottles listed for $100.
Teach your kids to suck it up? Merry Christmas. They'll have plenty of
chances to learn that on their own.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 12:09:30 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
What is PB Bikes?
On Tuesday, December
On 12/17/2014 07:41 AM, Edwin W wrote:
How do you lengthen cable and housing. That's kind of a joke, because I cut it
too short, but if you have a little extra cable CAN you throw in a little
section of housing? Or will it buckle?
In-line adjuster?
Best way to lengthen a cut-too-short cable
Yes, Steve, I am learning, one job at a time.
Edwin
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 7:52:31 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 12/17/2014 07:41 AM, Edwin W wrote:
How do you lengthen cable and housing. That's kind of a joke, because I
cut it too short, but if you have a little extra
this is one of those things that's easier to see then to describe. i'd
suggest you troll the flickr groups and look at how others have done this,
there are a few different options that work.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 8:57:01 AM UTC-5, Edwin W wrote:
Yes, Steve, I am learning, one job
for me a huge factor is how much you actually shift, i found DT shifters
much more livable after i got my single-speed. i find the reach a little
far, but in many cases i just don't shift :)
but i'm one of the people that love the look versus bar-end
shifters--especially bar-ends where you
Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult
and looks like there's a big potential for knees banging into forearms
while pedalling and reaching down to shift at same time.
What's your experience been with DT shifting?
I suppose height and dexterity are an issue
I think the 10-speed I had as a kid, had the shifters on the stem. But
after I switched to a mountain-bike in college, I had grip shifts, and
wasn't on another bike for over 15 years.
When I built up my Ram, I went w/ the bar-ends on Noodles, was fine. With
my Bomba, went with bar-ends
Finally going to try out a kick back hub for an urban porteur. Should be
on the streets around February.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 4:37:11 AM UTC-6, ascpgh wrote:
Riding, besides my commutes, get a bit scant from here on out through
winter. The season, the holidays, more deliberate
Edwin W wrote:
How do you lengthen cable and housing. That's kind of a joke, because I cut it
too short, but if you have a little extra cable CAN you throw in a little
section of housing? Or will it buckle?
I have used these Jagwire Aluminum Housing Connectors a few times with success.
Definitely cheaper than a new bike... I think I spend more time
fiddling with bike setups than riding!!!
I run cables behind racks/baskets.
For brake cables, I tend to run them more at around a 10 or 11 o'clock
position under the tape. That makes a nice little shelf for hands, and
puts them in
A friend will braze on some rack and fender mounts (I will supervise and
hold his beer) to my Schwinn KOM. Then I'm going to get the frame
powder-coated; I'm thinking clear coat to show off the lugs, maybe with a
light metal flake.
I'm also going to spread the rear to 135 mm from 130, and
Deac, doesn't your father lavish you with $3000 bicycles?
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 8:18:37 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thank you, Peter! Now I'm even more thankful we have no TV and don't buy
plastic or electronic toys toys.
With abandon,
Patrick
--
You received this message
Because your public meta complaint has so much more value to the group? I
started the PB Bikes thread which devolved into the anti-television thread
but I enjoyed it. Sorry you didn't, but self-righteous is in the eye of
the beholder. I rode my Rivendell custom 605 kilometers, or 376 miles last
General maintenance is my project. I finished refitting my son's 1983 Trek
613. It now has bar-ends, better fenders, an Altus rear der. (very nice),
Riv's bolt-on brakes (also very nice), a new Top-Line rear light to replace
an older BM model, and a BM eyc (from Riv) for the front. It's an
I'm not sure how to respond to this question, Ron. Is it a serious
question? How did you arrive at it based on anything I've written? The
simple answer is No.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 7:46:48 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
Deac, doesn't your father lavish you with $3000
I am doing the same conversion! The 1983 Trek 620 is the last sport touring
model year with side pull calipers, as far as I can tell. It is a nice frame,
with decent clearance, though it looks like only 38mm tires with fenders will
fit. I am still thinking about the wheels. I have some Mafac
My Uncle Gust-who my Father referred to as 'a plumber's carpenter'- used to
say 'I cut it three times and it was still too short'.
No one was hurt.
We smile and learn.
David
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 7:41:47 AM UTC-5, Edwin W wrote:
'm going to swap out Albas for noodles. Thanks for
One major project this Winter is to jump into the ring with a @#$%
crankset/BB overhaul, or changeout, or maybe a combination of the two. If
anything in the world could use a bit of standardization it would be this
business of trying to match up BB spindle tapers and length with said
Nice work. I wasn't aware of that lever angle detail before, and have
learned something new! Thanks!
Johan Larsson,
Sweden
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 7:04:52 AM UTC+1, Bill Lindsay wrote:
OK, that's a little hyperbolic, but I'm pretty excited. I like downtube
shifters, and Silver
One (to me) huge advantage is the fact that DT are fairly well protected
whereas bar end shifters live in a fairly exposed place when it comes to
crashing, leaning, falling over. With a little practice both work just fine.
Clayton, SF
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to
It requires a slightly different technique, given that your hands don't
grasp the shifters in the same way. With BES I use my fist and palm to
shift, which gives very good control. With DTS it's my forefinger and
thumb, or rather the forefinger and the palm directly underneath this
finger, and the
Yeah, the one bike (Fargo) with BES has a big wad of bar tape padding on
the top tube where the Silver shifters would otherwise contact the paint --
this tape is scarred from many contacts. Such contacts also annoyingly
shift the levers which is something I have to anticipate when I first get
on
I hate threads like this. They get me scheming about projects I shouldn't
even to begin to consider taking on.
KJ
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 5:37:11 AM UTC-5, ascpgh wrote:
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To
Thank You Joe
I'M THINKING I MISSED SOMETHING, oops, caps off
My time fortunately is not that valuable it seems. I need to get hep to
read this group. PB Bikes. Mmmm,
Re: [RBW] Re: I saw this article and thought of the PB Bikes debate
What is PB Bikes?
--
You received this message
If you do try a kickback, I’d urge you to use one without a coaster brake – on
my MB-2 Resurrectio, I used a 2-speed Sturmey Archer kickback with a coaster
brake, and the braking results in shifting when I don’t want it to. Otherwise
I like the kickback hub a lot.
From:
It occurs to me that the kind of handlebar you're using is also a factor.
If you're using drops, DT is probably much more appealing than if you're
using a sit-up handlebar of some sort. I'm a drop-bar user, and so find DT
shifters natural. I expect if I ever shift to uprights, I'll want
Well I still have one bike in the fleet with 'tubers and this looks like just
the ticket. At first glance I wondered why someone hadn't done these maybe 50
years ago. It's never too late. Great idea!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners
Hey I am one of the people who loves TV and my kid does too. I didn't take
any of the anti-tv stuff as preachy or self-righteousness. People live
their lives different ways and its interesting to hear about different
styles of parenting and living. And yes it does relate back to bikes
because I
I'm a drop-bar user, and so find DT shifters natural. I expect if I ever
shift to uprights, I'll want something closer to my hands--likely a 3-speed
trigger arrangement.
Good points. I had drops on the Hilsen referenced above. My flat bar
multi speed is a 1x6 matched to Paul Thumbies
If you do try a kickback, I’d urge you to use one without a coaster brake
– on my MB-2 Resurrectio, I used a 2-speed Sturmey Archer kickback with a
coaster brake, and the braking results in shifting when I don’t want it
to. Otherwise I like the kickback hub a lot.
Definitely a concern. I
I will join Andrew here, I love downtube friction shifting. Its simple with
very fast derailer response to input. There is very little to go wrong.
Even the entire cable is visible in case it starts to fail. Bar ends are
great too just not Great. Its not as easy or as convenient as bar ends, by
Everyone in my family knows that PB stands for Princess Bubblegum!
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 10:09:30 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
What is PB Bikes?
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 8:39:33 PM UTC-8, Jim M. wrote:
Maybe it's just winter grumpies, but this thread seems to be filled with
Finishing a rebuild project - 1970s Torpado Alpha that has been dissembled
for going on two months. Need to clean and wax frame, rebuild the main
bearings, clean up the components and then reassemble with new parts. I
find once I get going on the bearings the project starts to gather
Like many of the above replies, I have both set ups. I would say bar ends
are better due to always being near at and (and I ride with my hands
resting on them when I have Moustache bars). But, downtube shifters are
fine on a bike you don't shift a whole bunch, and don't ride aggressively
off
1. Another mixte rebuild for a charity auction. This one is a Fuji Royale
mixte (from, I think, 1981); quite a nice frame, repainted by Bruce at the
Color Factory a tasteful Taxicab Yellow. It will get the same build as in past
years – 3-speed Sturmey drum brake rear and Sturmey drum brake
Those rubber shift lever covers were made for DT levers, but always seemed
pretty pointless.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aaaPA180005.jpg
However, they're absolutely necessary on bar end shifters to protect the
top tube paint.
On Wednesday, December 17,
Although I prefer DTs, I will say that BEs are clearly the most
ergonomically designed. Way more than SIS. Truth is both system work fine
and no one should sweat about it too much one way or the other.
Michael
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 11:11:58 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
It
Edwin:
See the photo linked on Bill's first post on Phase 2 Atlantis build.
He's got a head on shot of the cables exiting the bar tape. He also posted
a photo of the bike with big front rack and a big front basket, so he had
plenty of hardware to consider in his cable routing decision.
On
I would disagree that brifters are more convenient than BEs. I find
pushing with my finger tips quite unnatural.
Michael
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 11:41:04 AM UTC-5, Mojo wrote:
I will join Andrew here, I love downtube friction shifting. Its simple
with very fast derailer response to
I see lots of drop bar users with bar ends... Just saying.
On Dec 17, 2014 10:23 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
marchantshap...@gmail.com wrote:
It occurs to me that the kind of handlebar you're using is also a factor.
If you're using drops, DT is probably much more appealing than if you're
I also love the subtle feel of pushing the bar end down with palm and
everything shifting just like silk
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 12:04:48 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
I would disagree that brifters are more convenient than BEs. I find
pushing with my finger tips quite unnatural.
Jim, have to agree with you about the obvious - no offense. Bar ends and a
moustache cockpit are just perfect. I can see how stem shifters would be
best with Albas and absolute sit-straight-up cycling. I did, however,
hunt down Microshift 9-speed barcons for my daughter's first drop-bar
How do you lengthen cable and housing. That's kind of a joke, because I
cut it too short, but if you have a little extra cable CAN you throw in a
little section of housing? Or will it buckle?
Edwin
I assume you are talking about proper shift cable housing, the stuff with
parallel wires
Eric: please report on the Chinese made 29er frame.
Matthew: Ditto on the kickback.
I keep mulling the alternatives of a S3X, a kickback, or a serendipitous TF
find for extra wheels for my Rivendell fixies.
With a kickback, incidentally, I'd want the coaster model, since I don't
want to have to
Skate Or Die says you're full of it
On Tue, Dec 16, 2014 at 10:18 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:
Welp, looks like I'm going to have to start rockin more stuff. Ah,
forget it. I'll be honest - deep down I'm just an Un-Rocker.
-Aaron Un-Rockin' 4 Life Young
The Dalles, OR
On
More stuff for sale, Nitto lugged seatpost, usual insertion marks, looks
great. A true piece of bike jewelry. $110 shipped. I will be parting out my
too big for me 61cm Soma Grand Randonneur tonight, Riv wheels, typical Riv
build. Its a lovely bike but the extension above the seattube is just a
because I didn't want her reaching into the wheel to shift
What set up would lead to this?
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 12:27:01 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
Jim, have to agree with you about the obvious - no offense. Bar ends and
a moustache cockpit are just perfect. I can see how stem
Hi Peter,
Just a thought on the Soma GR-- perhaps you used a saddle that's relatively
tall? I think Brooks saddles sit higher (i.e., you need to put the seat
post lower) than some other saddles.
For example, look at this comparison on Ocean Air Cycles (4th photo down):
hi Matthew, you calling me out? I didn't want my 12-year old daughter to
deal with downtube shifters. If you think different I'm happy for you.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 12:52:37 PM UTC-6, Matthew J wrote:
because I didn't want her reaching into the wheel to shift
What set up
That is a good idea but I really like my saddle and setup and rather not
suit my needs around the bike, if you know what I mean. Plus the GR has a
nice lightweight tubeset which doesn't exactly mesh well with my largish
body. It was a nice side project but alas I yam what I yam, a big dude with
I also have been planning a Trek 620 project -- though mine is a 1984
model, with canti brakes. I was just starting to pick up some parts for it
(I got it as a frame and fork alone) when my water heater ruptured. That
plus a fairly large car repair bill may have put the project on hold,
Not calling you out, sincerely did not follow.
Shifting is personal. I have no say - nor want any - as to what others do.
However on most bikes the rider's hand is as close to the wheel at the
bottom of drop bars as at a down tube shifter.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:10:36 PM
On 12/17/2014 01:52 PM, Matthew J wrote:
because I didn't want her reaching into the wheel to shift
What set up would lead to this?
The point is, there is no downtube shifter setup that would require
anyone to reach into the wheel. In fact, you aren't anywhere even close
to the wheel.
I prefer DT shifters, too, and agree with Andrew's 1-2-3 items along with
other positive replies on the list. Like others have experienced, I grew
up with DT's and just got used to them. Bar-con's were the next
evolutionary step, but I never cared much for them for some of the reasons
listed
Your photos really do that colour justice. Best ones I've seen yet. Happy
riding!
On Friday, December 12, 2014 5:29:08 PM UTC-8, Kellie Stapleton wrote:
My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!
On 12/17/2014 02:44 PM, George Schick wrote:
Plus, if you're used to riding with hands on the brake lever hoods, as
I assume most of us are, you still have to reach down to the end of
the drops with one hand or the other. With the DT's only one hand is
required to do all the shifting - and you
Ok, seatpost is spoken for. I have a set of paul brakes brand new with
upgraded kool stop mountain pads, front neo retro, rear touring.
$125 for a bikes worth. Will post more as I find more. Thanks all
Peter
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 1:51 PM, Goshen Peter uscpeter11...@gmail.com
wrote:
More
Right now I'm most of the way through converting our Trek T200 Tandem from
drop bars to uprights. It's an eight speed w/ Sachs brifters, and I'm
moving to Albatross with thumbshifters and MTB brake levers up front, and a
Dove bar in the back. Building it with used parts from the parts bin, this
I'm putting my Gravel Roadster https://flic.kr/p/duQUJZ back together. It
has a taller Brooks saddle, and I may put longer cranks and VP-001s on it,
to get the seatpost min insertion line back inside the frame.
Or give it to the child.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Wednesday, December 17,
Brushed silver, sorry.
On Dec 17, 2014 3:03 PM, Goshen Peter uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
Ok, seatpost is spoken for. I have a set of paul brakes brand new with
upgraded kool stop mountain pads, front neo retro, rear touring.
$125 for a bikes worth. Will post more as I find more. Thanks all
OK, I'll say uncle on this one. I stand 5' 9 and have slightly
disproportionately shorter legs vs. slightly longer torso ratio. And I
ride a 54cm frame. So for me to reach down is no big deal, but I realize
that it might be a big issue for those of taller heights and more
proportionate
My adult son has a Rambouillet. He commutes on it. This guy doesn't
ride lightly; he has more of a bulldozer approach to riding, it seems.
One time he broke a frame by riding into a parked car. Yeah, his steel
Trek frame broke at the head tube; I was so pleased that the frame
broke to protect that
I think a lot of it comes from what you were riding when you came of age
in cycling.
Something about teaching an old dog and new tricks.
Scott
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 3:51 PM, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote:
OK, I'll say uncle on this one. I stand 5' 9 and have slightly
Within reason, sure. There was/is a shop tool that clamps to the fork tips
like a hub would, and braces itself on the BB shell and you turn a
leadscrew to push it back out. If the forkblades are wrinkled at all, then
you get a little more queasy about it. Feel under the top tube and down
Those rubber shift lever covers were made for DT levers, but always
seemed pretty pointless.
Speaking of fair's fair, this is a very clever idea.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop
I had a bikeshop do this for me years ago, they had a jig they put the fork
in and just mainupulated it until it was true to the jig. Now my fork was
squashed in shipping so not sure about the front to back bending.
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 4:14 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
Within
Yellow Jersey did it on my XO-5. Extremely fast turnaround and perfect job.
Can't tell visually or functionally that it was ever bent.
David
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 17, 2014, at 4:19 PM, Goshen Peter uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
I had a bikeshop do this for me years ago, they had a
A! Part of the beauty of steel!
With abandon,
Patrick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To
Hi all,
Thought Riv folks might be interested:
I've made a calendar full of my bike photos (including a hilsen) and am
offering it for sale. I don't make a profit - I'm donating the calendar
sales to a local bike advocacy organization, Bike Durham.
If you're interested, take a look here:
So while is sort out who wants what parts FS is a great condition FFHS.
headset is tange,BB is 113, can include if needed/wanted. Frame has less
than 500 miles and only has wear from buildups, no chips nicks or dents
that I could see when I built it up.
Link to soma page and info
What's the C-C on the seat tube? I had a 65 but it had a really big
extension above the center, so it was sort of misnomer that it was a 65.
It was more like a 58 or a 60 from C-C. I sold it. So what is this one
like?
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 4:04 PM, Goshen Peter uscpeter11...@gmail.com
this one is similar, the ctc on the seatube is about 56cm, with 5 and
change above the seattube.
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 5:09 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
What's the C-C on the seat tube? I had a 65 but it had a really big
extension above the center, so it was sort of misnomer
I don't want to hassle with rear wiring. I can use either a 2-bolt or a
single-bolt light; want one that uses standard AA or AAA batteries. Not
interested in Planet Bike or other standard seatpost mount US blinkies:
want a rack mount light, either steady or flashing.
Will be happy to trade in
This winter I am going to rebuild my 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper so that
means I am going to buy a new suspension fork, some tires, maybe some
shifters for it...I think I have the rest.
I'm going to be selling my Sam Hillborne since I bought a sweet dual
suspension mountain bike and kinda
PB makes a nice rack mount adapter for its blinkies...I used to use one,
but decided it was worth the trouble to hook up dynamo wiring. Trust me,
it's *really worth the trouble!!!*
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 5:19:06 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
I don't want to hassle with rear wiring.
Damned household expenses get in the way of bike expenditure, don't they?
Me, my problem is insufficient income. (Well, and my promise to my daughter
that I will redecorate her bedroom -- new (modest) furniture -- before she
goes off to college -- she's 13.)
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 12:22 PM,
I bought a Planet Bike Superflash and the Plant Bike plastic rack mount
which bolts to the 2 holes in the Nitto rear rack and has a slider holder
in the middle to allow the light to slide in and lock. The plastic rack
mount was app $5 and it came up on Amazon when I searched for the
Good men can disagree. I do like the always on quality of a dynamo rear
light, But!!
1. The Toplight seems to me to be rather dim.
2. More bad, I don't like wire zip tied or taped to, *seriatim,* top tube,
top of right seat stay, and then spanning the length of the rear rack,
unsupported --
Do you mean this?
[image: Inline image 1]
I used one to mount two chronologically distinct PB Superflashes on the
rear of said rack and had both bounce off the mount after breaking the
clip, hit the pavement, and explode into pieces when I hit one of our many
5 pavement expansion cracks. (Same
But I have your back. On my 58 cm Ram, I -- 5'10, mostly torso, short arms
(damn! I can't reach my change!!) and simply drop my arm loosely from my
shoulder and find the dt shifter.
There *is* one more variable; how inclined your body is in your typical
riding positions. My road bars are ~1 below
Riding, running, and snowshoeing as much as I can, and new brakes for the
Quickbeam from Saint Nicholas to aid my Quickbeam single track tomfoolery.
Grin.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and
Sorry, still coming up with prices. VP Gripsters, the grey off the site as
seen on bike. $50 shipped.
Damn, forgot pic. Parting out, buying a complete bike so cranks, pedals,
bars etc all FS.
On Dec 17, 2014 5:13 PM, Goshen Peter uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
this one is similar, the ctc on
after the lecture, that's condescension..
here's my daughter's frame, her first drop bar and fast steering bike - she
had problems steering it for the first 100 miles. In everything, she is an
aggressive charger.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/Fuji/aP6220007.jpg
I see, that was Steve's lecture - par for the course.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:43:04 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 12/17/2014 01:52 PM, Matthew J wrote:
because I didn't want her reaching into the wheel to shift
What set up would lead to this?
The point is, there
It's probably fine. I did have a ten speed in high school where I hit
something and bent the fork. My dad bent it back, and it worked, until I
hit the back wheel of another high school cyclist making a U turn in the
middle of the road. The fork bent way further than it had originally, and
my
Lovely photos, Eunice.
Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to
I'm wheelset curious if you're selling.
-J
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this
1 - 100 of 111 matches
Mail list logo
