I've been doing coffee w/ butter as breakfast for the last 3-4 weeks,
usually eating lunch between 11:30-12. I did the challenge made it to
1:30 w/ a few pangs of hunger, but it was okay. I ate 2 sardines, a small
salad 2 scrambled eggs. I didn't eat again until 6:30 when I ate some
thanks Jan, that's the answer I was looking for.
On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 7:19:15 PM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
It's a bit more complex than that. The Standard tires have a lower tpi
casing, which improves their cut resistance. (Very fine threads are easier
to cut.)
The
b yeah!
On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 11:34 PM, Bruce Smitham wineh...@gmail.com wrote:
My Sam Hillborne is sold.
On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 9:34:26 AM UTC-8, Bruce Smitham wrote:
56cm Sam Hillborne single top tube with creme head tube. A few very
small blemishes here an there from
ROTFL
-L
On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 1:06:53 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Quirky. The word you're looking for is quirky. Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 9:20:36 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
Deacon,
Ok, so let me get this straight.
You
Jim, the Microshift derailleurs are also rebranded and sold as the new
SunTour (Sun XCD)
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
I was thinking about this some more and what it says to me is that we
should support competition. Shimano thinks we're a captive
Lugs and steel. A good mix. I am angling for an Atlantis, need some parts,
AND I should generate some funds to pay off medical bills that kick in next
month. Time to clear the rafters.
Contact me with any questions / trade offers: hbclick (at) yahoo.com
I would prefer paypal for sales.
As my
Are those the ones that shift backwards?, eg, cable pull puts it in a
smaller cog and cable push puts it in a larger cog?
I tried searching Wikipedia but I got a bunch of hits about baker's yeast. LOL.
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On 01/22/2015 04:47 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:
Are those the ones that shift backwards?, eg, cable pull puts it in a
smaller cog and cable push puts it in a larger cog?
I tried searching Wikipedia but I got a bunch of hits about baker's yeast. LOL.
Yes, Rapid Rise is another name for Ass
bargain basement!
http://www.ebikestop.com/kenda_street_k830_road_tire_700x38c_slick_blackmocha_steel-TR5128.php
(not seriously considering, but maybe someone out there would be interested)
On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 4:15 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:
Funny thing, the Marathons actually
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yOAanzM3sFY/VMEQqxRcPrI/AJQ/K0kbXO5tSEo/s1600/SMAFU.jpg
Not sure why anything would have to be vectorized, it's just a dang
shirt! Anyway, here's a quick sketch, if this is okay, I'll spend more
time, clean things up a bit have a final draft for
Fantastic! My nit-picky suggestions (I realize some of them are due to the
quick draft nature of this excellent drawing, but just to name them):
-- Shows steep terrain, but not rough terrain. Roughen it up a bit.
-- Give a subtle hint of hills in the background for context, lest it be a
loading
I've been getting more into it, still at less than 50 grams of carbs a day but
curbing down by introducing more fat. I crave vegetables so I eat a big ass
Mediterranean salad 4 or 5 times a week. It's delicious.
It's been 2 months and I'm down nearly 20 lbs. Ive been doing a fast 25 minute
But Patrick, quirky fits pretty well for all of us here. Uncarbed unlycraed
unracers who ride friction shifting wide tired lugged steel bikes - we're a
bunch of weirdos and there's not a thing wrong with that.
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Thanks, Doug.
On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 5:41 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
After well over a year of service and 4,000 miles, the rear Soma C-line
finally wore out. Pretty darn good for such a light, comfortable tire. In
that time, I only got a couple of flats. I was somewhat selective
Shimano called it Rapid Rise but others call it low normal --
Basically, the derailleur's spring carries it to the largest cog, i.e. the
lowest gear. So its normal position would be on the lowest gear - hence
low normal. And since the spring tension is helping the derailleur to the
larger
The alfine IGH bar ends work the same way but I had rapid rise in the past
so it was pretty easy transition.
On Jan 22, 2015 9:08 PM, Kyle Brooks bicycle1...@gmail.com wrote:
Shimano called it Rapid Rise but others call it low normal --
Basically, the derailleur's spring carries it to the
Hmmm...I have a Homer on order and I am getting bar end shifters. But I am
new to bar end shifters and I like the idea of up is up-shift and down
is down-shift. Maybe I should consider one of those wierdo backward
derailers. Any suggestions?
Doug Williams
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at
Pretty darn good recommendation.
Thanks,
~Hugh
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On 01/22/2015 09:37 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Hmmm...I have a Homer on order and I am getting bar end shifters.
But I am new to bar end shifters and I like the idea of up is
up-shift and down is down-shift. Maybe I should consider one of
those wierdo backward derailers. Any
On 01/22/2015 09:08 PM, Kyle Brooks wrote:
Whether its backwards or normal would depend on one's point of view.
Normal is the norm. The way every other modern derailleur works.
Get used to a backwards-acting derailleur and you may be sure, it will
end in tears. They've all been
Yes, you are correct in your description of the issue. I've tried to
loosen and or snug up the d-ring screw and the behavior seems the same no
matter how loose or snug it is. So, at this point I either need to get a
different set of shifters or open it up so see if I have any luck. It's a
Where RapidRise fails is double-shifting of bar-ends or downtubers, which
may not be a common practice for most folks. Sometimes when approaching an
incline I want to shift down a chainring, which now leaves me in too low a
gear in back, so now that one has to be shifted up. A faster way to do
Don't do it! That's my suggestion.
Why not?
~Hugh
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I suspect you have all the washers and stuff slightly out of alignment,
which means the D-ring is feeling tight before actually bottoming
everything out. There's several bits in there..some round, some round with
a rectangle shape inside. Those rectangles have to fit over the rectangle
nut
I didn't intend to say you *can't *double-shift low normal; but you lose
the 'push both levers the same direction' trick for it. I'd rather have*
that* trick than 'push the same for high gears with each lever'. Like I
said, I suspect double-shifting isn't in wide use. It probably isn't even
Start over. Remove cable from derailer. Center the barrel adjuster.
Check cable for binding. If it's ok, reattach. Pull the cable taut
but don't whale on it. If it's still auto-shifting down, turn barrel
adjuster 2 or 3 clicks counterclockwise, or until it stops
auto-shifting back down.
I had no idea there was a Sissyphus traffic sign!
Philip
www.biketinker.com
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I signed up for the Half Pint again. I have no desire to pedal a bicycle
more than 111 miles on those roads no matter how nice the weather is. I
rode my Atlantis on Schwalbe Duremes 700x40 with 40 psi F, and 45 psi R. I
am going to experiment with lower pressures before I ride this year,
Great observation! I've noticed this on many occasions with conventional bad
end shifters.
(Never having considered low normal, the issue you point out has never
registered. Interesting.)
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 22, 2015, at 7:14 PM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
Where
To all the low normal haters:
I have owned a few, although the vast majority of mine are (high) normal.
But my favorite derailleur of all time, the Shimano XTR m951 (with the
built-in rollamajig) is a low normal derailleur and is without a doubt the
finest shifting derailleur I've ever owned.
I only ever double shifted with brifters, and I'm not using those now anyway.
Interesting discussion. The rapid rise aka low normal would be used
for my wife's bike so the easy and hard direction on the bar ends
never changes.
On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 9:14 PM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com
On my Ram, Rom, and Bomba, I have the exact same RD on each, an XT
M760-SGS a long cage low-normal XT RD. I even have a fourth sitting a
shelf as a spare since they're no longer made. One bike uses downtube
shifters, the other two use bar-end shifters; the low-normal works great
w/
Take a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Drh4PHMQwKI and here
http://si.shimano.com/
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 6:33:31 PM UTC-5, DSat wrote:
First attempt at replacing my rear derailer cable. Using the same
handlebars, bar end shifters (riv silver), cable housings (in good
These tires are said to be good for tandems on the tandem forum that I
frequent, for whatever that's worth.
The ISO marking of 37-622 seems more accurate than 700x35!
That's really minimal chainstay clearance if you ask me. Surprised
you were able to fit them with the fenders. I see they stop
Yes, I understood what you meant. Like going from the big ring to the
middle ring while shifting one gear higher in the back, gives a more
even ratio change. I did this on Shimano brifters by pressing both
small buttons at once, and I have seen it done on downtube shifters by
moving both
Ok, I found it... Expensive though... They make a fatbike tire too in the
same pattern...
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 11:02:24 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
I'm also a huge fan of the ITS micro knobby on a 26 country bike for
gravel, dirt, pavement, etc. The reverse tread in the center
First attempt at replacing my rear derailer cable. Using the same
handlebars, bar end shifters (riv silver), cable housings (in good
condition). Have not touched any limit screws as derailer seems to be
lined up correctly under the smallest gear in back. Chain on smallest cog
in back and on
Dammit. I can't find them anywhere...sniffBww! I might have to try
the 2.25's... Or just say screw it and get some Maxxis crossmarks. ..
Seriously sad... How come it always goes like that? You finally find
something that works real well, and they discontinue it? Like the original
I think it sounds like the ratcheting part inside your shifter is not
engaging correctly.
When you say It automatically shifts back down, you mean you use your
hand to move the shifter far enough to get it to move all the way up to the
5th or 6th cog, and when you take your hand off the
Got one on my Saluki and love it. With bar ends you pull up to upshift and push
down to downshift. I have four other bikes that are normal and one Campy
Shimergo and have no problem switching among them.
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After well over a year of service and 4,000 miles, the rear Soma C-line
finally wore out. Pretty darn good for such a light, comfortable tire. In
that time, I only got a couple of flats. I was somewhat selective about my
off-roading as I didn't want to shred the sidewalls as I've done to
Instead of calling it ass backwards I call it shifting correctly. YMMV.
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Relax. If it shifts and the chain doesn't rub ... Just Ride!
Matt
On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 6:10:30 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Ha! No worries about my self worth, Michael, though I appreciate your
ministerial wisdom! My self worth comes from God, I know it's there, and
Hard Rock tires, you mean?
I think my sister has them on her Hard Rock bike that's only been ridden twice
or so, I think.
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They do seem to measure somewhere between 36.5mm and 37.5mm on Synergy
rims. The chainstay clearance is much greater than the photo angle shows,
something like 6mm either side. No conflict with the rear fender. Good
distance from the chainstay bridge, but horizontal dropouts make for snug
Ha! It starts as just a dang shirt, and ends up as a billboard!
15 years ago:
We just need a business card (they mean logo).
- No problem, here you go.
Yeah, we need to use this for a bus ad.
- You people are just terrible.
Now:
We need an iOS app interface.
- No problem, here you go.
Yeah, we
I'm also a huge fan of the ITS micro knobby on a 26 country bike for
gravel, dirt, pavement, etc. The reverse tread in the center lets them
roll very fast. I like mine around 25-30 psi for gravel, and 30-35 psi for
pavement.
It looks like you can still get the MK3 in 26 x 2.25
I should order more micro knobbies, before they go away... Fear purchase
...lo
The proper term is defensive parts purchase. Been known to dabble in
this myself.
dougP
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 10:21:47 AM UTC-8, Clayton wrote:
Whenever a tire thread comes up, I have to chime in on
I'm so stoked -- I finally found a grubby old set (2 pair) of black
Dia-compe 986 calipers. No springs, brittle pads, but I must have tried
four or five different sets of brakes on my old Trek 520, which was built
to take 27 wheels, but which is running 700c. Nothing really worked well
at all,
I can't speak to this, but I've had good success buying the detergents sold
for hunters who want to eliminate any trace of human odor. They claim to
contain enzymes that break down oils and sweat, and they work really well
for handwashing helmets and other stink-laden garb.
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Hey folks,
Looking to see if any of y'all have a sackville saddle bag laying around that I
can put to use. It doesn't have to be a sackville, could be something similar.
Looking for something to use for my commute to work and would love to buy used
before I pull the trigger on a new one. Email
Yes I know, but they seem to mark the derailers up quite a bit when
SunXCD gets printed on them rather than Microshift, just saying.
On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 12:48 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
Jim, the Microshift derailleurs are also rebranded and sold as the new
SunTour (Sun XCD)
On
I'm curious about the CAUSE and the EFFECT. Which was it:
A. Did the derailer just separate into two parts on its own? Then the
broken off part got caught in the spokes, causing you to lurch to a stop?
Cause: Derailer fell apart on its own Effect: Broken bits fell into the
wheel
B.
I was thinking about this some more and what it says to me is that we
should support competition. Shimano thinks we're a captive audience,
while they meanwhile outsource lower end parts production to poorer SE
Asian economies and additionally with less money spent on RD. Only
the high zoot stuff
Whenever a tire thread comes up, I have to chime in on the Intense cycles
micro knobby. My favorite tire *ever* for the touring I do. It is very
light, wide (2.10 or so), and rolls like silk. Pump 'em up and they go
zoomy. Make 'em soft and they are very comfy off road. I like 'em more than
Thread revival. I'm planning to do this one on my Hunqapillar this year.
I am thinking about the camping situation. Has anyone insight at this
point on what worked last year? Example - I like to camp light on the bike
- sans tent. Did folks make this work last year? I realize it will
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