I know nothing about it. The AW ratios Patrick mention, 40”, 52”, 70” sound
about perfect. Try it and tell us how it goes.
I’d use a new AW, not an old one, because the new ones supposedly don’t go in
neutral when they are out of gear. That feature of the old ones is not
excellent.
Philip
Now, why, again, a IGH for winter off road? And why 3 speed instead of 5,
7, 8, 9, 11, 14? I'm all for it, but I'm curious as to your motive.
Long, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, when I was briefly dating a
(Anglo) woman who lived on Bilaga'ana- (that's Navajo for white man, and
I'm half
If you do a search on this blog using the keys "death valley" up will pop a
number posts from the past, including well documented coverage of the Death
Valley Double Century by riders like Eric Norris. Some of these might be
helpful.
On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 7:52:00 PM UTC-6, dougP
Oh yeah. Somehow that slipped thru my logic.
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Drew, I’m not moving anything on the frame. Drum brakes on each hub.
With abandon,
Patrick
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Late to this and not familiar with any snow riding. If you're willing to have
the canti bosses moved from 700c to 650b, have you thought at all about adding
disc brake mounts instead. That way you could, presumably use both wheel sizes
and have year round good braking. Again, I've only heard
Very curious to see how this all turns out & to hear Grant/Riv’s thoughts on
drum brake-ifying the Hunq. Good call keeping the 2nd small chainring plus
spare chain just in case. Do you usually use a chain with master quick connect
links? You may be able to use an extra master link and form a
Tim:
People tend to underestimate the size of Death Valley. Some of did a trip
where we camped at Texas Spring & did rides out of there for a few days.
Dante's view is one serious climb. The view is almost worth the effort.
Further north in the valley are a few campgrounds but primitive.
I'll be taking the Hunqapillar, Roadeo and either the Hilsen or MAP out there
for some camping and cycling here in the next couple of weeks camping and doing
a lot of riding. Any advice?
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Bumpity.
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In case anyone is, inexplicably, following along at home, here is my plan after
a weekend of web surfing research, following my general approach of when in
doubt, simplify, that’ll teach you a LOT. So:
Shift the Hunqapillar to 650b Sturmey-Archer 3-speed Dyno and drum brake
wheel-set, geared
Ann and John, I appreciate your gracious comments to me and please know that
none of my remarks were directed to either one of you in any way. This forum
and its members sure are a gem!
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On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:45:15 PM UTC-5, MartyG wrote:
>
>
> Wheelset dropped to $300 shipped.
>
>
>
>> Crankset may still be available for $165 shipped. Sale is pending.
>>
>>
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Chris:
I found the original thread humorous because it was over the top and not
what I perceived RBW or GP. If it isn't clear from my earlier post, Grant:
I apologize for my earlier post of the 2015 thread. I did not mean any
disrespect. I will not be involved with this again.
Ann
On
Wheelset dropped to $300 shipped.
> Crankset may still be available for $165 shipped.
>
>
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Continuing to toy, and one alluring concept is going with a three speed hub.
I’ve searched around a bit and not found much (I know of Shaw’s 3-Speed
Society) specific to MTBing with 3-speed IGH. Anyone know of anything?
With abandon,
Patrick
www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
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I have a set of TIG welded Nitto Bullmoose bars (the ones Riv sells) that I'd
like to trade for a set of Chocomoose bars. They're in great condition, I'm
just looking for a more relaxed position. Thanks!
-T.J.
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Chris,
I apologize for offending you. I don't actually read those other forum
threads criticizing Grant or Rivendell, because I find them pointless,
uninformed and idiotic. I do enjoy someone satirizing these critics.
But I do sincerely apologize for offending you, and I apologize to
I don’t find anything at all humorous about those posts. Plus that’s a total
cop out to try to pass it off as appealing by pretending some other person is
“narrating” the comments. Is it really that hard to be nice to others?
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If the humorous stuff is best read in the "voice" of the "Most
Interesting Man in the World" ads, perhaps the criticisms of Rivendell &
Grant in these other forums would be best read in the voice of a clueless
Roseanne Rosanadana. :)
John
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I love the thought. Because of tire width and errand needs, it’s the
Hunqapillar.
With abandon,
Patrick
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I think fenders if anything would be dangerous for you Patrick. You ride
off-road a lot and there's a big chance of stuffs jamming your tires.
So I think without the fenders your bikes are at the mercy of the elements and
roadsalts in the winter.
So looks like your options are a good
I love my bikes but haven't drunk any cool aide yet ;)
The other frequent criticism is that RBW are overpriced. I have found mine
to be extremely good value for how often I use them. I suspect the haters
spend as much, if not more, on bikes and accessories than I do. Also, a
point that
Hey All,
I hate to do this, but I am selling my Sage Green 64cm Rivendell
Rambouillet Frameset. Includes headset. I purchased this frame with the
intent to build it up, but I have some other projects to finish up first
and I just ended up purchasing a Campagnolo Master Tool Kit. I could use
What drives me crazy about these kinds of threads on cycling forums is when
people call Riv Riders a cult. If you like a certain type of bike, riding and
riding gear, you're going to gravitate to a company and group of riders who
like the same stuff.
And consider this: The people calling it a
Phil Wood wheelset sold.
On Saturday, November 4, 2017 at 5:13:20 PM UTC-5, Julian Westerhout wrote:
>
> FS: 700c wheelset built by Rich Lesnick - Hands On Wheels. 36 hole, Deore
> LX hubs and skewers, Velocity Synergy rims, asymmetrical rear, DT Swiss
> spokes. Excellent condition, little
Have you considered just buying an additional bike for winter use? In the
end, it might not cost much more, would probably be less hassle, and would
help preserve your precious Hunquapillar by sparing it from harsh winter
riding conditions. Used fat bikes are unbelievably cheap these days.
Crankset may still be available for $165 shipped if anyone is interested.
On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 3:23:45 PM UTC-5, Doug Bloch wrote:
>
> I find these crank sets to be exquisite. Congrats to the buyer.
>
> Doug
>
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I find these crank sets to be exquisite. Congrats to the buyer.
Doug
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Grant:
I'm not sure how I would feel if people wrote about me like that. I found
the posts ridiculously over the top in proportion your niche in the bike
world and advocacy for steel bikes. The first thread I found seemed to
have an undercurrent of affection with some of the posts, the later
I should add that fenders are a well tried and tested option that works in
concept except I don’t like it with knobbies, so a rejected option.
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The high price option is new wheelset for the Hunqapillar with IGH, drum
brakes, and dyno. Ideas for the simpler, low cost version? My thoughts:
1. Chain protector/guard (ideas for a hearty one that will keep the drivetrain
dry?)
2. Annual Autumn cable replace/lube (obvious, but worth naming)
>
> Couple updates. Suntour Mark II is spoken for, as is the Paul crankset and
> the Nitto rear. Prices for remaining items:
>
Paul 27.2 seatpost: $65 shipped
Paul wheelset:$325 shipped
Paul front Racer & moon unit: $80 shipped
Nitto front rack: $55 shipped
MKS pedals: $25 shipped
>
>
>
As I said earlier, my own experience with Stan's is that, when it dries, it
does form little rubber marbles or octopuses or boogers, what have you;
this both in tubes and in tires without tubes. In one tube, ridden for 12
to 18 months with Stan's added initially but not thereafter (sealant seems
The saddle was listed by the seller on eBay instead
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192348479141
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As many of you know, I'm the volunteer team mechanic for the local public
High School Mountain Bike team. We're a 100% self-supported team, with no
school money paying for our activities. The League we race in is called
Norcal: https://www.norcalmtb.org/ We race in the southern division of
I'm making a run at an N+0 lifestyle, and parting ways with some cool
stuff, or stuff that won't fit "N". (Huge Roscoe Mixte)
First up is a SS groupo based on Paul Components: Crankset, Seatpost,
Front Racer, and Rich-built Paul hubs laced to MA-2 700c, 36h rims, White
freewheel, (21t I
VO brakeset is spoken for.
Keith
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Well, I am using Stan's, but tubeless. Any Stan's users to weight in here?
Thanks Nels, Phillip and Patrick.
On Saturday, November 4, 2017 at 2:16:57 PM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:
>
> So my sealant is lasting about 4 months before I have to replenish. Should
> one do some cleaning of interior parts
P.s. I realize the Schwalbe delta cruisers are not likely the best “all
weather” or “winter” tires but they’d go nicely with the rest of the build and
this would be intended to just allow me a fendered wet weather road bike with
plusher rubber that the currently maxed 700x32 and may even have
Genuine concern and not just playing devil’s advocate... but is it possible for
many caliper/canti designed forks to lack strength or lower blade reinforcement
for the lever arm of drums (similar to the way discs could overpower and
crumple some forks if not made with discs in mind) ? Clearly
Thanks for the name change. It does make it easier to address a particular
remark to a person.
Regarding wheels: a 700C wheel with a 44 m tire will be just about the same
diameter as a 635 wheel with 38 mm tire, at least according to Jim's trail
calculator. I rather think that Guvnor with the
Note thought that, at least in my own case, with Stan's, a year's worth of
use and replenishment in a dry climate left rubber solids in the tire (or
tube, since I've had to toss a tube when all the Stan's coagulated near the
valve in a solid globule). One more reason for preferring Orange Seal.
All I can write about this is that the only thing true is Truth Itself, and
Truth is All .
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