here's another thread discussing the T.A. drop pin and a couple good pics.
I'd guess the spacer is used to lengthen the set-up if there's a larger gap
involved, between chainring and crankarm.
Having the screw head on the inside is apparently correct but seems
undesirable - why didn't they
Hi Deepak -- Blue Lug sells an off-white acrylic tape that is within
rhyming distance of the cream of Riv head tubes. But I would caution that
with use and age the tape will become dirty and will no longer match as
well. This will be true whether you go with white, white w clear shellac
(which
Those are neo retro up front and touring in the rear. I have the same set
up on three different bikes. Here's a link to Pauls and you can see the
difference.
https://www.paulcomp.com/product-category/components/brakes/cantilever-brakes/
On Friday, December 17, 2021 at 10:23:44 AM UTC-6 Matthew
What a fantastic ride! Thanks, Max, for letting me test ride the wonderful
bikes in your fleet and making time for the ride this morning. Looking
forward to doing it again next time I'm in town (or if you make it to LA)...
On Friday, December 17, 2021 at 3:06:42 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
> Just
Sale pending...
On Wednesday, December 15, 2021 at 9:29:46 AM UTC-5 Patch T wrote:
> Crickets! $225 + shipping?
>
> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 11:27:33 AM UTC-5 Patch T wrote:
>
>> Howdy Bunch,
>>
>> I have a 1987 Trek 330 Elance in cherry red that won't fit its intended
>> rider. Ready
Has anyone tried cloth bar tape and shellac combination to get close to the
cream details on Rivendell. I am thinking of these two options
1. White + Clear shellac : I am assuming that clear shellac will slightly
tint the white
2. Viva toshi off-white tape + clear shellac.
Has anyone tried
Neo Retros are not as powerful as Touring cantis, because you can not get
the straddle wire close to 90 degrees in relation to the brake arm. That
angle is the key to high mechanical advantage. See: V brakes. The idea
that they're stronger is simply based on lever feel. They feel firmer,
I’m putting my glorious Susie up for sale. I have loved riding this bike,
but as someone at the top end of the suggested Susie weight range, I have
decided to move up to a Gus so that I can add racks and load the thing up
for more adventuring with a little more peace of mind. I was able to
I just don't understand that solution. All the chain-drop-stoppers I've
seen are a small grub screw that threads into the chainring, there's no
screw/spacer on the backside of the ring.
On Friday, December 17, 2021 at 8:56:21 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:
>
> Here's an image. One thing to be
A local mechanic reasoned that the touring canti has the same mechanical
advantage as the neo retros that were modeled after vintage canti’s , the
implication is they are equal. Something about the neo’s being more sensitive
to brake ware. Can anyone verify this?
Sent from my iPhone
> On
I have that setup on a bike. Like others have said, heel clearance was
the original consideration. But the wide profile neo retro has more
modulation/subtlety to it, which is good for a front wheel. The low
profile touring is more on/off binary, which is ok for a rear wheel. But,
as
I have the same arrangement on my Bombadil. It was for pannier clearance as
much as heel/leg clearance - my Bombadil is a later, longer chainstay
version with less heel/leg clearance issues. I had originally bought the
brakes for the Hubbuhubbuh, but changed it to Paul V-brakes and moved the
Sir,
The neo-retro is a very powerful brake. You can use is the rear, but it
will over power very thin seat stays, thus you need a brake booster.
On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 9:11 AM Artaud wrote:
> I have that set up on my Romanceur.
> I find that the Neo Retros have better stopping power, but
I have that set up on my Romanceur.
I find that the Neo Retros have better stopping power, but my heels would
hit them if they were set up in the rear. The Tourings work well enough,
though, if you prefer your front and rear sets to match.
Denis, in NC
Le vendredi 17 décembre 2021 à 11:41:17
Hey all,
I know this is a reachbut, still looking for a Medium ShopSack in
Olive, Tan or (preferably Khaki #9).
Many thanks!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails
Yes, I’ve installed many TA chainrings, and that screw/nut/spacer is to be
used when the crank is a 5-arm spider. The s/n/s goes on the out-facing
side of the big ring to prevent chain drop jamming.
With a 4-arm crank, no need for s/n/s.
On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 12:05 AM Jim S. wrote:
> Hi, I'm
Peter is correct, it's a chain drop pin for the hole in the photo. TA is
known for details you may not otherwise consider, they surely dance to
their own beat. I like that about the European parts manufacturers, their
creative ways are a stark contrast to the ways of the East.
On Friday,
17 matches
Mail list logo
