Best picture ever
On Saturday, August 24, 2013 10:50:16 AM UTC-7, Liesl wrote:
Design away the top tube. If you get the twin transect right you have
plenty of structural support. We have mixtes, love'em.
Ah, I had quite a bit of discussion on this very point while I was at
Riv! I've
Dual diagatubes?! This bike is going to be amazing and truly unique.
Parts lists for the build sounds cool. I love those IRD needle
bearing headsets- best ever IMHO, and the Phil Rivy hub will be sweet.
Also regarding the 40/26 crank, I have one and after exhaustively
On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote:
Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the
53.8% difference between the chain rings.
My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27%
jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from
your
That sounds like it will be one sweet bike !
For those debating about the 40/26 chainring choice, you seem to miss the
part about Liesl's rear hub choice : A Phil Rivy . That is a freewheel
hub. Likely she will be using a 13t low cog, maybe a 12t if she has them.
I could totally see
There are more compromises available to riders than that between a triple
on the one hand and a w r d with frequent crossover shifts, on the other.
The whole point of switching to w r d's is, for some, precisely to avoid
the annoying crossover shifts between large and middle on standard triples.
Personally, I think the
standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most
riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of
triple and don't find them even slightly confusing.
I totally agree with you there. Very useful and very non-confusing.
That's why
Living in Chicago with most of my riding thereabouts and in the upper
Midwest makes all this easy.
My primary bike is a single speed.
My tour bike is a 1x5. Up front is a 46. In back a Suntour Winner with
14-34 cogs. (thanks to Patrick Moore who pointed out a new cottage
business in New
FWIW, you can make your own cassettes with Miche Shimano compatible outer
cogs which go as high as 16 t. I used to run a cobbled 7 speed
16-18-20-23-26-34 or somesuch with the stock 46/36/24 X2D chainset set up
for most of my riding in the 46.
QBP has the Miches and they aren't very expensive.
if you're patient for slow delivery, Outside Outfitters has great prices on
the Miche components - put my daughter's cassette together there.
On Friday, August 23, 2013 6:16:05 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
FWIW, you can make your own cassettes with Miche Shimano compatible outer
cogs
Hi friends,
What a tutorial in gears! I'm learning quite a bit! A few comments on
that topic from my perspective: I'm in the Edwin W camp. Simple shifting,
a bail-out gear...that'll do for me. I, too, ride a single most of the
time and I expect to keep my triple Saluki, and my 1x8 Friday
And what are those spanning webs to attach a h2o cage? Gotta picture?
Not exactly. Here's something close:
http://ladyfleur.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/mixte-bike-on-caltrain.jpg?w=640
It's easy to see where you might mount a bottle cage on the downtube, but
on your bike, which will have a
Steve writes:
In the terrain I ride most, I'd stay on the big ring all the way down the
block until I was forced to shift -- and I would be forced to shift every
time it got steep, ... I'll be looking for a gear lower than 38 inches,
something in the mid to low 30s.
In which case I am
Liesl,
Design away the top tube. If you get the twin transect right you have
plenty of structural support. We have mixtes, love'em.
Will
On Friday, August 23, 2013 6:53:08 PM UTC-5, Liesl wrote:
Hi friends,
What a tutorial in gears! I'm learning quite a bit! A few comments on
that
I love the twin mixte style diagatubes! Am I thinking correctly that they
will be side-by-side from headtube back to seat tube, at which point they
will splay out and tentaculate back near the dropouts, one curving up to a
seatstay, the other curling down to the chainstay? Will Mark Nobi be
Would it take a triple crank?
I am just thinking that a 40t x 26t. double crank seems like it needs a
middle ring.
40 would be too high to stay in for long, I would think, unless you are on
dead flats or downhills, or a strong rider (I couldn't do it).
The small ring would be too light,
40 x 26 is plenty. Run the numbers with any normal cassette. Compact
double is all most people need. You need a triple carrying or hauling lots
of weight, and maybe need it for serious off road riding. But if you lay
out the numbers, an intelligently selected compact double gives you
On 08/22/2013 06:41 PM, William wrote:
40 x 26 is plenty. Run the numbers with any normal cassette. Compact
double is all most people need. You need a triple carrying or hauling
lots of weight, and maybe need it for serious off road riding. But if
you lay out the numbers, an intelligently
Steve buddy
1. I would never categorize you in most people, so you can be totally
right about your gearing choices without disproving my assertion that most
people can do just fine with a compact double. :-)
2. This is another datapoint proving that you've been unfairly maligned as
a Jan
On 08/22/2013 07:25 PM, William wrote:
Steve buddy
1. I would never categorize you in most people, so you can be
totally right about your gearing choices without disproving my
assertion that most people can do just fine with a compact double. :-)
I make no comment about most people. I've
I have the 40/26 on my Sam with an 11-32? 8 speed in the back. In the 1000
miles I've ridden I have stick shifted into the granny only once, so I haven't
put on a front derailer yet.
If you are going to be using the 26 more than occasionally, the detailed
analysis from Steve seems important.
Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the
53.8% difference between the chain rings.
My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump
from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24
to your 36. I don't know if I should
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