I think you are correct - after all this! I now think the movement is just the flex of the exposed quill allowed by the hole of the locknut being just a bit larger than it could/should be.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 7, 2023, at 3:11 AM, Joe Bernard wrote:Checked my Face Plater in my custom, it show
Checked my Face Plater in my custom, it shows the same gap as in your video
with the same movement..I never knew! I think it's a tall quill stem being
yanked by wide bars (Boscos in my case) and these are the results. I'm
going to keep riding it as is.
On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 12:07:
Hi Garth. It is a Nitto FacePlater stem & consistently measures 22.2. I’ve not yet measured the inside diameter of the head tube.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 6, 2023, at 3:41 PM, Garth wrote:It appears the diameter of the stem is out of spec as all I see of movement in the video is the stem itself w
I was going to suggest checking for a loose headset, but It is obviously
the stem, and Garth is right on.
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It appears the diameter of the stem is out of spec as all I see of movement
in the video is the stem itself wiggling inside the steering tube. Do
measure the diameters of the outer stem and inside the steerer, and in
multiple places around the circles. Something is out of spec as that's a
whole
This is an excellent thing to add to a pre-ride quick check, or a
diagnostic tool when someone on a ride complains about clanking noises,
vibrations or weird handling. It's surprising how often I find it,
especially on bikes with threadless headsets (where the whole point is
you can adjust it
I usually just hold the front brake closed and, while astride the bike, try to
roll it forward and back. If you wrap your fingers around the bottom of the top
part of the headset, you’ll pretty easily feel movement if the headset is too
loose.
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Tw
On Step 4, to check for excessive play I like to brace the front wheel
against something solid - like a wall or a heavy workshop bench - hold onto
the handlebar then push forward on the frame or seat. The steerer shouldn't
move relative to the head tube at all when you do that.
Thumbs up on the
I agree with the various replies here. Another good thing to do besides
having the two wrenches is to support the bike on the ground somehow,
either using something like a Feedback Sports Rakk Bicycle Storage Stand or
having someone hold it up via the saddle or rear wheel, and then sandwich
th
Lum,
Headset adjustment is one of the few jobs I go to my LBS for. I'm just not
skilled enough to get it right. The other stumper for me is wheel
building/truing.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Friday, October 13, 2017 at 1:38:58 PM UTC-6, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> This is a needle bearing IRD Rollerd
It absolutely should be done with two wrenches. When you loosen the
locknut at step 1 and when you tighten the locknut at step 3, you are
holding the upper headset race fixed with a proper 32mm headset wrench.
You can use a huge crescent wrench for the locknut, but it is preferable to
have at
Get a good 32mm headest wrench ! Park's tool precision , aka quality
control(meaning the tool fits snug), is all over the place. Maybe Pedros
would be better for a first time buyer .
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thanks for the info!
On Sunday, November 6, 2016 at 12:19:10 PM UTC-6, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was going to attempt a headset adjustment, which I've never done. I need
> to buy two wrenches to do the job. It's probably obvious to others, but I
> can't figure out what size wrench to buy t
Jim don't be afraid! it will be obvious if you have not adjusted it
properly, too loose and it will wobble, too tight and you won't be able to
steer, both of which you will be able to catch and adjust right away.
if you get really frustrated, try and find an open workshop day at a
bicycle co-
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