Thanks Andy. That was helpful. The argument for centerlock makes sense ...
I was just reading this gentle introduction to hubs while your message
came through..and i realized the 6bolt/centerlock only matters for the
disc.
The manner of connecting the disc to a hub matters for disc replacement.
When mounted the caliper only cares about the diameter of the rotor. I was
happy to choose the center mount format. On their website they call
six-bolt "robust" and center lock "Shimano format".
Having to keep up with
Hello everyone,
Thank you very much for the advice! I'd read it all then and came back
today with the idea that I'll take the disc-hub. Then I read through the
emails again
Anyway, I think my thought on "future-proof" was incomplete. I have never
tried disc brakes over a longer period so
I have a SON QR disc hub on my commuter (love it, thanks Peter W.) and had
it built so I could move it to my Rambouillet when I tire of either the
bike (Disc Trucker) or no longer need a commuter. So it has the same rim
as my Ram and the disc mount is lockring instead of 6-bolt. A quarter turn
Laing: Curious: How does the SA Dynohub (tm) perform in powering a modern
LED headlight compared to modern dynohubs? Can you get full LED headlamp
brightness at a modest cruising speed, say 12-15 mph?
I once owned both a front Dynohub (tm) and a combo rear AW + Dynohub (tm);
both were damned
Like others have said, get the hub for the brakes you use. If you still
want to "future proof", get the SON disc hub for Shimano "centerlock"
discs. It provides a slightly stronger wheel build than the "6 bolt ISO"
disc version; spokes closer to equal on both sides. Also pick the 12mm
thru
Disc brakes with quick release hubs are a PITA. Get the widest SON
non-disc hub that that you can afford.
But remember, this advice is coming from an overweight guy who builds new
wheels for himself several times a year, so I go all-in on wheel strength,
I have a huge parts stash, and I know
