I prefer threadless 'cause the adjusting I actually do is headset and bar
swaps. To me the only advantage (besides looks) of quill is one I don't use:
raising/lowering. Once I have a quill set I don't mess with it because I don't
like marks on the stem. I'd rather just go threadless.
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You
Of course it can't look anything like a quilled Pearl, but it might be cold
forged, be designed for unobtrusive steerer clamp bolts, have a similar bar
clamp, and have the same finish, no?
On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 10:50 PM Lum Gim Fong wrote:
> I dont get this.
> If it is a pop top stem for an
I dont get this.
If it is a pop top stem for an aheadset steerer then it cannot look anything
like a tech or pearl.
Nitto already makes pop tops in silver so take your pick.
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I agree with you in theory, but: 1) I don't like the looks of the ones I've
seen, and 2) they're more expensive than a stem/riser combo, especially if
you need more than one stem during fitting. If you're in trial-and-error
mode then modular is an advantage. But if (for example) Nitto made
I’m interested to see examples of your small frame - high bars bikes set up
with each method.
Philip
Santa Rosa, CA
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But realizing that I did not comment on convenience, I will do that now.
When you have a frame with a long, long steerer with huge huge stack of
spacers or a highly angled stem, it becomes quite a trigonometry problem to
figure out which stem angle and extension to order to make the bars do X,
Ah yes! Threaded is my choice. Sorry for the error.
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Do you mean, “threaded is my choice”?
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On small sized frames it is awfully tough to get the bars high on a threadless
setup without having a ridiculously long steerer that looks silly or an
intensely sloping top tube. For a classic looking smaller frame, threadless is
my choice.
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Best of both worlds is quill stem with removable face plate. Below Orange
makes some.
With there were more.
I've "cheated" a bit and used threadless stems with quill adapters when
trying to get my fit right. Once that's done, I've always replaced with a
real quill just because I find the quill
I get the best of both worlds on about half my bikes by using a threadless
stem and stem riser. The stem is threadless and has a removable faceplate
so I can swap the stem without stripping the bars. It's attached to a
riser that's essentially a threaded quill stem without the extension. A
That's not too bad, I admit, but I have also to admit that I rather yearn
for the pure, cold, distant beauty of a cold-forged Nitto Pearl. Can't they
do that in a threadless format? Frankly, while I have no quarrel with lugs,
lugs *as such* don't rock my boat, and I rather think that ornate lugs
Here is a good looking threadless stem:
https://store.somafab.com/nilust.html
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to
I must say that this 1 cm difference in length (9 to 10) makes a
surprisingly big difference in comfort, despite the weight penalty (10
grams exactly). I'll have to just live with the weight for the sake of
comfort, but that's very Rivendellian-ish-ianesque, right?
And the bar is now 1/4" below
I like threadless mainly because of the removable faceplate. I change out
handlebars and stems way too frequently, so a removable faceplate saves a
lot of bar tape unwrapping/rewrapping. Other reasons for threadless are:
(a) more rigid connection with steerer tube, which I like but others may
There's a big difference between fiddling and fretting. I do fretting.
True about reach for quill stems. More weight on the threadless side of the
equation. Or perhaps this: I swapped out stems more times with the Matthews
*because* it was so easy to do with a threadless system. I recall "putting
Should've made a better decision the first time swapping stems, cost for the
third stem are on you not the style :p. I feel like the reach on my roadini is
a little long with a 100mm stem. I'm reluctant to swap at the moment because
of the hassle involved. Threadless I would've already done
Patrick,
Did you really type this: "And given my antipathy to fiddling"? Seriously?
I read your posts precisely because they include all kinds of fiddling (off
the top of my head: tire pressure, tire sealant [various kinds]; custom
cassettes, varying the Q-factor, etc.)
But to your main
I just set up my first threadless bike. Late to the game, i know. At first
i couldnt really believe that the fork comes off when the stem is removed,
but once i got over that, it does seem somewhat simpler... especially if
you know about where you want your bars.
I still think i prefer
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