[RBW] Summer sale

2010-08-03 Thread Ron MH
Out with the old... well, actually, not very old at all. The following
items are in new to nearly new condition. The oldest of which has only
seen a 50 miles of use at most.

MKS Touring pedals  $25

Velo Orange - CX Canti brakes. This is a complete set having been
installed and used for less than a month.  $30

Charge Spoon saddle, black leather cover with titanium rails - with
minute marks on the rails where the seatpost clamp attaches and a
scuff on the small charge logo. 240g and only $40.
http://www.chargebikes.com/products/parts/spoon.php#

PayPal preferred. Shipping extra.

Ron

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Re: [RBW] A supposedly fun thing I'll never do again...

2010-08-03 Thread CycloFiend
on 8/2/10 4:59 PM, Mike at mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

 ... Larch Mountain on my Quickbeam from my house in Portland. About 80
 or so miles round trip. The 14 mile climb up to Larch Mountain went by
 smoothly enough for the first 10 miles but the last 4 miles were
 rough, much tougher than anticipated. Still, I managed and got to take
 in some great views from Sherrard Pt. at the summit. I'll probably
 ride up there once more before the end of summer but doubt I'll do it
 on the Quickbeam.
 
 Here are some photos:
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157624516053177/

Ha!  I've said things like that before, but then you realize that the
mountain is the same and you start wondering, hmmI wonder if it's
easier or harder now...?

Great images.  Thanks for sharing.  The mountain is calling... ;^)

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes


Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
it.
Mahatma Gandhi


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[RBW] Re: Camping/Biking around Minneapolis area

2010-08-03 Thread JB


On Aug 3, 1:54 am, John Blish jbl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi John,

 If you include north of town there is camping at Bunker Hills Park

 http://www.anokacountyparks.com/camping/default.htm

 in Coon Rapids.  My recollection is that it is $15 a night and that includes
 showers and flush toilets.  There is nothing special about the campground
 and nothing wrong with it either.  There is a good water park nearby in the
 Bunker Hills Park but those folks don't have any reason to come into the
 campground and they do not.

 The campground is not far from the Coon Rapids Dam where several multi-use
 trails meet, including one I often take down the WEST side of the
 Mississippi to I-694 where I cross over to the EAST side.  To do that you
 would go south from the campground to the dam and cross the spillway at the
 dam and then head south from there.  It is about 20 miles to the heart of
 downtown Minneapolis from there.

 There are some twists and turns in this route that are not all obvious to
 the first-time user.  Depending on when you might be here I might be able to
 provide further information.  For now I can't help much.  I leave early
 Thursday for an 850 mile round trip tour to a family reunion - back on about
 Aug 19 or so.

 Good luck.  Use Google map and get in touch with the campground folks if
 that looks like a possibility.

 -jb



 On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 8:04 AM, JB baile...@voyager.net wrote:
  Does anyone know of a campground in the Minneapolis area where a guy
  could drive to and then bike into the city on a bike trail?  I may be
  visiting friends later in the year and would like to camp, but would
  want to leave my truck at the campsite and travel by bike while there.
I'llThanks John,

I'll check it out.  I won't be going till, at  least, September and
possibly the end of October.  I'll be in Greece the last part of Sept.
and first part of October, so, I'll make the trip on either end.  I
know I'm pushing the weather a bit, but I live in Michigan and know
the routine for cold.

Right now, the timing of the trip depends more on work than anything
else.  I've got a lot of time right now and that could, possibly,
change.

John


  John

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 John Blish
 Minneapolis MN USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread Bruce
Exactly. Sometimes we really get hung up on bike weight and for me it makes 
very 
little difference, they all are close enough. The intangible difference is 
probably the degree of climbing each bike averages. They range from 40' to 60' 
average elv gain per mile.





From: cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, August 2, 2010 8:37:39 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Some comparative biking data

I am betting it is not the weight
of the bikes-- or only to a very small degree.


  

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[RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-08-03 Thread William
OK, Pondero, for what it's worth, here's my stick figure:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/4856880566/

I realize the lines are not dark enough to see all that clearly.  I
merely guessed at tubing diameters.  I think I put the downtube too
low where it hits the headtube, so the front wheel is closer to the
downtube than it really would be in real life.  Doing this excercise
made me realize that the downtube and lower head lug are the very last
thing to fall in to place.  They just end up where they end up.

Numbers:

My PBH: 87cm
ST length 58cm c-to-t
Virtual TT length 58cm
HT and ST angles 72
Trail 60mm with 584x41 tire
Standover 840mm with 584x41tire
TT upslope 2 degrees
Bartops and saddle level with saddle height at 75cm and Nitto Pearl
stem

If I get this built, it'll be 130mm spaced.  I'll have fender braze
ons, and a way to mount a handlebar bag support.

Now all I need to do to be ready for PBP 2015 is ride 20,000km!

On Aug 2, 10:44 am, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Excellent!  Now scan it and show the rest of us.  It's critique time.

 Seriously, your approach sounds exactly like what I would do, and I'd
 love to see it.

 On Aug 2, 12:35 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:



  I went ahead and worked ahead.  Grant had us up to seat tube angle.  I
  did chainstay next, and then seat tube length, which allowed me to
  connect the dots for my seatstays.  Then I marked my saddle height and
  drew a level line from the saddle to the front end.  I knew I wanted
  to be able to get the bars and saddle level with a Nitto Pearl stem.
  I ended up with a slightly sloping top tube (more slope than a Hilsen,
  less than a Bomba/Hillborne) and still had my standover at a
  comfortable level.  Then I dropped the headtube angle to the ground
  and pulled back the trail, which positioned my front hub and
  established fork rake.  I went ahead with the compass and spun the
  wheels in, and from that marked where I want the brake bridges.  I
  kind of guessed where the downtube meets the headtube.  But the thing
  is drawn.  It's basically a slightly modified 58cm 650B Hilsen/
  Saluki.

  On Jul 28, 10:00 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

   I think Laney College here in Oakland did aframebuilding class, as
   well as The Crucible, which is a vocational arts school with every
   kind of heat based trade (glass, welding, blacksmithing, etc).  Maybe
   I should look into that.

   On Jul 27, 9:08 pm, Bill Gibson bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:

I took a welding class (Welding for Artists, or something like that)
at the local community college a few years ago and got to try
everything and developed instant respect for the simplest welds in my
life. I got to try both gas and electric and gas brazing and plasma
cutting, and it's on my list. But teaching school science starting
last week, 6 weeks too soon for me -maybe it's time to retire and ride
and make bikes and whittle spoons and kuksas...need to gather school
supplies...

On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Steve sring...@gmail.com wrote:
 I did this:  signed up for a framebuilding class, measured my youngest
 son who needed a good road bike, and built a virtual clone of my
 Rambouillet.  The only change I made
 was to increase the fender clearance slightly under the headtube and
 the seat stay bridge since my Ram frankly runs at the minimum usable
 clearance with 28mm tires.  The lugged bike turned
 out to be spectacular:  it handles, if you can believe this, slightly
 better than the Ram (although I suspect that my handling test was
 biased due to less weight in the front bag).  No matter;  he loves the
 bike.  I spent about twelve Sundays building this and loved every
 minute of it.  If you can spare the time and cash, do it.

 Steve
 Ames, IA

 On Jul 27, 1:25 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant is apparently going to teach us how todrawa bikeframein his
 little step by step way.  I'm going to follow along.  I want a custom
framethat somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen.  The
 critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
 to be a lighter frameset.  I don't know if I'll ever get this 
 frameset
 made, or whether it will be a Rivendell or an Ebisu or a Davidson or
 something else.  But I'm looking forward to drawing it.  I've done a
 fair amount of drafting table work in Engineering school, but never
 went ahead and drew a bike.  Looking forward to it.

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[RBW] Re: Who's riding RAGBRAI?

2010-08-03 Thread Forrest
Ken, you are a monster. I bow down to you . . . Seriously, bravo!  --
Forrest

On Aug 2, 9:45 pm, Ken Yokanovich reflector.collec...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I saw and briefly met Kelly on his very handsome and stylish
 Quickbeam. Spotted another Atlantis and a few Rambouillet.  Had a
 fantastic tour on my Atlantis.  Managed to ride from Faribault, MN to
 Sioux City, IA to join in the fun of RAGBRAI for 4 days, then rode
 back home.  Finished up 761 miles in 8 days of riding.  The Atlantis
 was set up with Nitto racks front and rear, Arkel bags all around and
 a Wald basket zip tied up front for miscellaneous.

 For those of you curious, the bike without bags but with racks,
 fenders, and basket = 42 pounds.  Empty bags added another 9 pounds.
 I traveled with 36 pounds of clothing, food, tent, sleeping bag,
 sleeping pad, tools, etc.  Total loaded bicycle = 87 pounds plus
 another 180 pounds of rider.  My days were
 Faribault, MN to Saint James, MN 100
 Paullina, IA 137
 Sioux City, IA 85
 Storm Lake, IA 70
 Algona, IA 81
 Clear Lake, IA 62
 Charles City, IA 54
 Roseville, MN 172

 On Jul 21, 3:05 pm, Kelly kingtw...@gmail.com wrote:

  I'm getting packed up for the drive out to Iowa and thought I'd ask,
  who's ridingRagbrai?  This will be my first time ridingRagbrai, and
  I'm very excited.   I'll be riding my orange Quickbeam, and this seems
  the best year to do it.  The main two gearing combinations I'll be
  using are 40 x 15 and 32 x 15.  I'll also have the 32 x 18 on the flip
  side if I really need it the last day.

  Who else is ridingRagbrai?   I'm hoping to see quite a few Rivendells
  on the ride.  Any last minute suggestions from veteranRagbrairiders?
  Thanks, and I'll see you on the route!

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[RBW] Bag Repair in Seattle

2010-08-03 Thread Robert Kirkpatrick
The zipper on my Hobo bag broke on tour last summer and I'm hoping to  
get it replaced. Anyone have any leads on someone or someplace that'll  
do that sort of job? Ideally in the Seattle area but I'd send it out  
to somebody if I had to.


thanks,
Robert

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[RBW] Re: Bag Repair in Seattle

2010-08-03 Thread cyclofiend
I can't say specifically for the Seattle area, but I'd look to sailbag
makers or folks who specialize in canvas work for boats.  I've had a
couple of Filson bags repaired here locally by a woman whose business
is the former.

You need someone with a sewing machine that can go through that
stuff.  Also, you might make sure are using waxed thread (or some type
of analog) so that the stitching doesn't act like a wick in the rain.

hope that helps!

- Jim


On Jul 29, 2:08 pm, Robert Kirkpatrick spiralc...@gmail.com wrote:
 The zipper on my Hobo bag broke on tour last summer and I'm hoping to
 get it replaced. Anyone have any leads on someone or someplace that'll
 do that sort of job? Ideally in the Seattle area but I'd send it out
 to somebody if I had to.

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[RBW] Re: I'm going to draw my own frame! Who else will follow along?

2010-08-03 Thread grant
You've got to expect the odd number mishap! I had various versions,
broken down into different-sized steps. Sorrya bout dat. All I can
assure you is that in general, the numbers will get larger, more or
less, as the lesson progresses. If all goes according to plan.

Sidebar to all this: I'm working on a custom design now that is more
challenging than most, and my CAD program wasn't giving me all the
answers I wanted. It's not AutoCad, and I know AutoCad would have, but
it's what I got and it's good for lots of things and exactness, but in
this one instance my pencil drawing told me something my Caddy
didn't...because I could extend lines and see angles differently.
Plus, it is slighly more satisfying. Then back to Caddy for the final.

In the real world where I live, where I design a frame in all its
sizes for production, I send my drawings or numbers (derived from
them) off to the maker-maker, and they have their own drawing
programs. They put the info into theirs, send back drawings for review
etc, and so smother mine...except that theirs are just their
interpretation of mine, and then if the numbers are right, it's a go.

I think Tarek mentioned something like this in the old Bstone
catalogue. Scary memory, but yes. This one will be more complete,
especially at the fork area. That's a trickier part, and is especially
tricker with lugs...but I'm not going to go into all the details
there. Not that important, and the thing we're doing here will still
have served its purpose. Which isI'm not sure. No harm is the
goal!

G

G

On Aug 2, 6:25 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:
 OK...that says step 3 on it so I assume it is just a number mishap.

 On Aug 2, 8:39 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  Step 4 was seat tube angle:

 http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/336/original_n4_seat_tube_angl...

  On Aug 2, 5:37 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:

   Did I miss step 4 somewhere?  I had the PDF with step 3 and then the
   next one was step 5.  Was that just an error?

   On Aug 2, 1:44 pm, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com wrote:

Excellent!  Now scan it and show the rest of us.  It's critique time.

Seriously, your approach sounds exactly like what I would do, and I'd
love to see it.

On Aug 2, 12:35 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I went ahead and worked ahead.  Grant had us up to seat tube angle.  I
 did chainstay next, and then seat tube length, which allowed me to
 connect the dots for my seatstays.  Then I marked my saddle height and
 drew a level line from the saddle to the front end.  I knew I wanted
 to be able to get the bars and saddle level with a Nitto Pearl stem.
 I ended up with a slightly sloping top tube (more slope than a Hilsen,
 less than a Bomba/Hillborne) and still had my standover at a
 comfortable level.  Then I dropped the headtube angle to the ground
 and pulled back the trail, which positioned my front hub and
 established fork rake.  I went ahead with the compass and spun the
 wheels in, and from that marked where I want the brake bridges.  I
 kind of guessed where the downtube meets the headtube.  But the thing
 is drawn.  It's basically a slightly modified 58cm 650B Hilsen/
 Saluki.

 On Jul 28, 10:00 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  I think Laney College here in Oakland did aframebuilding class, as
  well as The Crucible, which is a vocational arts school with every
  kind of heat based trade (glass, welding, blacksmithing, etc).  
  Maybe
  I should look into that.

  On Jul 27, 9:08 pm, Bill Gibson bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:

   I took a welding class (Welding for Artists, or something like 
   that)
   at the local community college a few years ago and got to try
   everything and developed instant respect for the simplest welds 
   in my
   life. I got to try both gas and electric and gas brazing and 
   plasma
   cutting, and it's on my list. But teaching school science starting
   last week, 6 weeks too soon for me -maybe it's time to retire and 
   ride
   and make bikes and whittle spoons and kuksas...need to gather 
   school
   supplies...

   On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Steve sring...@gmail.com wrote:
I did this:  signed up for a framebuilding class, measured my 
youngest
son who needed a good road bike, and built a virtual clone of my
Rambouillet.  The only change I made
was to increase the fender clearance slightly under the 
headtube and
the seat stay bridge since my Ram frankly runs at the minimum 
usable
clearance with 28mm tires.  The lugged bike turned
out to be spectacular:  it handles, if you can believe this, 
slightly
better than the Ram (although I suspect that my handling test 
was
biased due to less weight in the front bag).  No 

[RBW] Re: Who's riding RAGBRAI?

2010-08-03 Thread Ken Yokanovich
Thanks for the support, compliments.  No monster, I'd much prefer the
saddle and handlebar of a bike for 10 hours a day than my office chair
and a keyboard.

This was the 15th or 16th year of having done similar trips.  Many
have been longer, some shorter. I'd like to take longer trips, but
time is a constraint.  I would have liked to wrap up the rest of the
week of RAGBRAI and come home up the river.

One of my favorite moments on the trip was a stop out in the middle of
nowhere.  No cars, nothing but a light cool morning breeze and the
birds.  I sat down in the grass for a while to rest and could have
easily taken a nap.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4qxHwitk6FxBcRzwmijshw?feat=directlink

The basket up front was one of my favorite features.  I used it to dry
my laundry, hold my map, hold an extra beverage (or several.)  I met
up with some friends and became known as the bar bike.  On one
particular day, we were riding late in the day and people were handing
up free 32 ounce bottles of sports drink.  I became the holding area
for my fellow riders:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2pMFDXvURkm9OwhAH5cUeQ?feat=directlink

The next morning, I carried two jars of pickles, a jar of garlic
stuffed olives, two bottles of bloody mary mix, and the fresh celery
in the basket.  One of my riding partners (also riding self contained)
carried the 25 pound bag of ice.  We then had a little morning treat
for 10 with breakfast at the FarmBoys stop about 10 miles out of Clear
Lake.

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[RBW] Re: Bag Repair in Seattle

2010-08-03 Thread Jim M.
REI in Seattle uses Rainy Pass Repair. I can't vouch for them but you
could give them a call.

jim m
wc ca

On Jul 29, 2:08 pm, Robert Kirkpatrick spiralc...@gmail.com wrote:
 The zipper on my Hobo bag broke on tour last summer and I'm hoping to  
 get it replaced. Anyone have any leads on someone or someplace that'll  
 do that sort of job? Ideally in the Seattle area but I'd send it out  
 to somebody if I had to.

 thanks,
 Robert

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[RBW] Re: A supposedly fun thing I'll never do again...

2010-08-03 Thread Ken Yokanovich
Looks like an awesome ride. Jealous, we don't have any long climbs
around here in the midwest, though I do enjoy some good rollers.

On Aug 2, 6:59 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 ... Larch Mountain on my Quickbeam from my house in Portland. About 80
 or so miles round trip. The 14 mile climb up to Larch Mountain went by
 smoothly enough for the first 10 miles but the last 4 miles were
 rough, much tougher than anticipated. Still, I managed and got to take
 in some great views from Sherrard Pt. at the summit. I'll probably
 ride up there once more before the end of summer but doubt I'll do it
 on the Quickbeam.

 Here are some photos:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157624516053177/

 --mike

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[RBW] Re: A supposedly fun thing I'll never do again...

2010-08-03 Thread Jim M.
Sounds fun! Inquiring minds want to know: Did you shift?

jim m
wc ca

On Aug 2, 4:59 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 ... Larch Mountain on my Quickbeam from my house in Portland. About 80
 or so miles round trip. The 14 mile climb up to Larch Mountain went by
 smoothly enough for the first 10 miles but the last 4 miles were
 rough, much tougher than anticipated. Still, I managed and got to take
 in some great views from Sherrard Pt. at the summit. I'll probably
 ride up there once more before the end of summer but doubt I'll do it
 on the Quickbeam.

 Here are some photos:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/sets/72157624516053177/

 --mike

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Re: [RBW] Bag Repair in Seattle

2010-08-03 Thread Rob Harrison
As Jim said, go to Rainy Pass. http://rainypass.com/ They've done a  
LOT of stuff for me over the years, including customizing a motorcycle  
tank bag, adding heavy duty zippers to m/c pants, repairing those  
pants later (:(), and repairing a down sleeping bag a couple times.  
You have to be specific about what you want if you're doing something  
out of the ordinary--I wouldn't say they are designers, particularly.


Rob in Seattle


On Jul 29, 2010, at 2:08 PM, Robert Kirkpatrick wrote:

The zipper on my Hobo bag broke on tour last summer and I'm hoping  
to get it replaced. Anyone have any leads on someone or someplace  
that'll do that sort of job? Ideally in the Seattle area but I'd  
send it out to somebody if I had to.


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[RBW] Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread Eric Norris
Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the daruma fork crown 
bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.

Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the bottom of 
the fork crown; a metal fender washer sits between the rubber washer and the 
fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in some miles in the rain, I 
noticed that the rubber washer was sealing the bottom of the fork crown and 
preventing water that got in there from draining out.  In fact, the water was 
migrating upward (the only way it could go, really) and escaping around the 
stem.

I checked with Velo Orange, who sold me the fenders, and they said they hadn't 
heard of this problem before, but that it could perhaps be remedied by drilling 
a hole through the washers.

Has anybody else had this problem, and if so, how did you fix it?  I'm 
concerned about water being trapped inside the steerer (I drained everything by 
disassembling the fender mount, but that's a pain to do on a regular basis).

Thanks in advance.

--Eric

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [RBW] Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread Clayton Scott
I drill/file a notch into the fender and rubber washer and rotate it towards
the rear of the bike to allow for proper drainage. Also, the setup is fork
crown, rubber washer, fender, small petal washer, locknut. By doing it your
way (rubber against the crown) it likely provided an even better seal.

Hope this helps,

Clayton

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 11:01 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the daruma fork crown
 bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.

 Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the
 bottom of the fork crown; a metal fender washer sits between the rubber
 washer and the fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in some miles
 in the rain, I noticed that the rubber washer was sealing the bottom of the
 fork crown and preventing water that got in there from draining out.  In
 fact, the water was migrating upward (the only way it could go, really) and
 escaping around the stem.

 I checked with Velo Orange, who sold me the fenders, and they said they
 hadn't heard of this problem before, but that it could perhaps be remedied
 by drilling a hole through the washers.

 Has anybody else had this problem, and if so, how did you fix it?  I'm
 concerned about water being trapped inside the steerer (I drained everything
 by disassembling the fender mount, but that's a pain to do on a regular
 basis).

 Thanks in advance.

 --Eric

 Sent from my iPad

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[RBW] Favorite route? Oakland to Santa Rosa

2010-08-03 Thread CR Masterson
I'm happy to BART across the bay, head up through Marin.  Or any other
way you have fallen in love with.  It would be nice avoid huge trucks,
mondo hills and traveling way out of the way as much as possible.
Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread John McMurry
On Aug 3, 2:01 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the daruma fork crown 
 bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.

 Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the bottom 
 of the fork crown; a metal fender washer  sits between the rubber washer 
 and the fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in some miles in the 
 rain, I noticed that the rubber washer was sealing the bottom of the 
 fork crown and preventing water that got in there from draining out.  In  
 fact, the water was migrating upward (the only way it could go, really) and 
 escaping around the stem.

Yeah, this can be a problem with the daruma setup.  I've noticed
increased condensation and surface rust inside the steer tube of bikes
that use this setup (I've since cleaned them thoroughly, sprayed a
rust preventative in the tube, and inspect annually).  Though, I do
think that you have the parts arranged incorrectly, which would
exasperate this issue.

From the fender crown downward, the metal fender washer should be
installed, then the rubber washer, then the fender.  The metal washer
doesn't provide a water tight seal, and therefore allows water/sweat
to drain.

Peter White has an example photo on his website:

http://peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Accessories/bertffcb.jpg

John McMurry
Burlington, VT

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Re: [RBW] Re: Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread Eric Norris
That's very helpful!  The photo helps a lot--I will reassemble it like that 
before it rains.

--Eric

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 3, 2010, at 11:30 AM, John McMurry johnmcmu...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Aug 3, 2:01 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the daruma fork crown 
 bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.
 
 Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the bottom 
 of the fork crown; a metal fender washer  sits between the rubber 
 washer and the fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in some miles 
 in the rain, I noticed that the rubber washer was sealing the bottom of 
 the fork crown and preventing water that got in there from draining out.  In 
  fact, the water was migrating upward (the only way it could go, really) 
 and escaping around the stem.
 
 Yeah, this can be a problem with the daruma setup.  I've noticed
 increased condensation and surface rust inside the steer tube of bikes
 that use this setup (I've since cleaned them thoroughly, sprayed a
 rust preventative in the tube, and inspect annually).  Though, I do
 think that you have the parts arranged incorrectly, which would
 exasperate this issue.
 
 From the fender crown downward, the metal fender washer should be
 installed, then the rubber washer, then the fender.  The metal washer
 doesn't provide a water tight seal, and therefore allows water/sweat
 to drain.
 
 Peter White has an example photo on his website:
 
 http://peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Accessories/bertffcb.jpg
 
 John McMurry
 Burlington, VT
 
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[RBW] rivish parts garage sale

2010-08-03 Thread Gary
Hi there,

I've enjoyed lurking on this list for quite some time - thanks for all
the great information and discussion.  I'm finally posting because
I've been cleaning out my bike closet and have found the following
bits that could use a new home:

- Record 10spd 175 cranks 53/42 (pre-carbon)  Exc. condition -  $50 +
10 shipping

- Record 10spd Front Der. (double) braze on (pre-carbon) Exc. cond. -
$30 + 5 shipping

- Record 102mm carbon sleeve bottom bracket Exc. cond. - $30 + 5
shipping

- Brooks titanium swift seat, antique brown - moderate break-in-age  -
$75 +10 shipping

- VO Grand Cru Long Setback seatpost, 27.2 - like new - $30 + 5
shipping

- Dura Ace Rear Der. (double) - VG cond. - $35 + 5 shipping

- Dura Ace Front Der (double) - good cond. - $25 + 5 shipping

- Shimano 105 Rear Der (10spd, double) - exc. cond. - $30 + 5 shipping

- Chorus Front Der (double, old style 9spd - braze on + clamp) - good
cond. - $20 + 5 shipping

- Chorus Rear Der (double, old style 9spd) - good cond. - $25 + 5
shipping

- Chorus Crank, double, 53/39, older vintage - fair cond. - $20 + 10
shipping

- 3T Stem 12 cm, 22.2 - good cond. - $15 + 5 shipping

Shipping would be priority USPS, and would be less if purchasing
multiple items. Paypal only please.  Also, if the price doesn't seem
reasonable, please let me know!

Please reply off list.

Thanks so much,

Gary
Asheville, NC



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Re: [RBW] Re: Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread Clayton Scott
I am an idiot. Do not delete the rubber washer.

Here is the setup I meant to write the first time around:
the setup is fork crown, METAL WASHER, rubber washer, fender, small metal
washer, locknut

Sorry to add to the confusion.



On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 11:40 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 That's very helpful!  The photo helps a lot--I will reassemble it like that
 before it rains.

 --Eric

 Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 3, 2010, at 11:30 AM, John McMurry johnmcmu...@gmail.com wrote:

  On Aug 3, 2:01 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
  Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the daruma fork
 crown bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.
 
  Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the
 bottom of the fork crown; a metal fender washer  sits between the
 rubber washer and the fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in some
 miles in the rain, I noticed that the rubber washer was sealing the
 bottom of the fork crown and preventing water that got in there from
 draining out.  In  fact, the water was migrating upward (the only way it
 could go, really) and escaping around the stem.
 
  Yeah, this can be a problem with the daruma setup.  I've noticed
  increased condensation and surface rust inside the steer tube of bikes
  that use this setup (I've since cleaned them thoroughly, sprayed a
  rust preventative in the tube, and inspect annually).  Though, I do
  think that you have the parts arranged incorrectly, which would
  exasperate this issue.
 
  From the fender crown downward, the metal fender washer should be
  installed, then the rubber washer, then the fender.  The metal washer
  doesn't provide a water tight seal, and therefore allows water/sweat
  to drain.
 
  Peter White has an example photo on his website:
 
  http://peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Accessories/bertffcb.jpg
 
  John McMurry
  Burlington, VT
 
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[RBW] Re: Bag Repair in Seattle

2010-08-03 Thread rcnute
Try Renate Gehrig: 
http://seattle.citysearch.com/profile/10795198/seattle_wa/renate_gehrig_design.html

Ryan

On Jul 29, 2:08 pm, Robert Kirkpatrick spiralc...@gmail.com wrote:
 The zipper on my Hobo bag broke on tour last summer and I'm hoping to  
 get it replaced. Anyone have any leads on someone or someplace that'll  
 do that sort of job? Ideally in the Seattle area but I'd send it out  
 to somebody if I had to.

 thanks,
 Robert

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RE: [RBW] WTB: Nitto Dream Bars in 44 (new)

2010-08-03 Thread Joe Bartoe

Hey Chris,

Try here: 
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=75_128_129_476products_id=1007

if no one else has any.

Best,

Joe

 Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:17:43 -0700
 Subject: [RBW] WTB: Nitto Dream Bars in 44 (new)
 From: adventureco...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 
 Anybody have a pair or two of WTB: Nitto Dream Bars in 44 you'd be
 willing to sell?
 
 Handlebars are starting to become like running shoes: you'd better
 stock up when you find something you like!
 
 Thanks,
 Chris Kostman
 La Jolla, CA
 http://www.XO-1.org
 
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[RBW] Re: A supposedly fun thing I'll never do again...

2010-08-03 Thread Mike
 Sounds fun! Inquiring minds want to know: Did you shift?

 jim m
 wc ca

Hey Jim, I didn't shift, 40/18 the entire way. It was definitely a
good work out. The cruise down was odd, it seemed like it took forever
just coasting back down. There's no real tricky turns or anything so
you almost get bored with the descent.

My rear wheel is a bolt-on (Surly hub fixed/free) and so it's a little
harder to change. Next year I'm hoping to put on a different rear
wheel, something with a QR.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Dream Bars in 44 (new)

2010-08-03 Thread bfd


On Aug 3, 12:17 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Anybody have a pair or two of WTB: Nitto Dream Bars in 44 you'd be
 willing to sell?

Are things that bad where you are? Here's few places that sells the
176 bar:

Soma Fab has 42 and 44cm 176 bars for $80:
http://store.somafab.com/nittom176dream.html

an internet place called ride this has both 42 and 44cm bars for
$60:
http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/nitto-no-176-dream-bar.html?source=googleps

Finally, it's not a 44cm, but Bike.com has 42cm for $50:
http://bike.com/mod-176-road-bar-26-42-cm-silver-handlebars?utm_source=qbikeutm_medium=CSEutm_campaign=05DTHBBEan:

I wonder if your LBS can get them tooGood Luck!


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Re: [RBW] Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread PATRICK MOORE
How did you determine the speed figures to compare? Average over same route
over many laps?

I find that my 17.75 lb Riv Custom Fixie Fastie is certainly faster up hills
with its 75 gear than my circa 22 lb Riv Custom Fixie Commuter (largely
identical in build except for fenders, Tubus Fly, SON + lights, heavier
pedals) with its 69 gear, tho' truth to tell I am also usually carrying at
least a small load on the Commuter. And the Commuter is faster than my 67
gear and much heavier (tho' frame is lighter) and much heavier wheeled '73
Motobecane Grand Record fixie grocery bike; again, taking hills into
account. On the flats there is probably not that much difference as long as
there is not a great deal of stopping and starting.

On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 6:54 PM, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:

 having a few spare minutes this week, I looked at the performance/weight
 ratios of my stable of 4 bikes. This will probably surprise no one, but
 there isn't much difference between them. The bike that feels fastest, and
 the one I ride when I want to keep up is actually third fastest, and so
 on.  I weighed the bikes as they are currently built up. (I've had the Ram
 lighter before but have made some comfort based changes) Brass
 bells, leather saddles, racks, fenders, saddle bags (emptied out though,
 pedals, bottle cages. No tools or frame pumps. No carbon, no titanium
 anywhere. But real world weights. Relative speed is as compared to the
 fastest bike. Shame about how slow fastest is precludes my providing hard
 data points. There may be others who can relate.

 Rambouillet - 23 1/2 lbs  Fastest
 Nashbar Mark III - 24 lbs+0.01 mph
 Riv Road - 24 lbs+0.5 mph
 Saluki - 29 lbs +0.82 mph

 Less than 1 mph separates all of them. The Nashbar is probably the fastest
 if all the miles were on the same course. I practice hills on it because I
 really like its mustache bars for climbing. It was originally designed along
 the lines of a crit racer, iirc. It's not my favorite for anything over 30
 miles, as the position is a bit aggressive. The Riv road is what I prefer on
 medium to long rides at speed, and the Saluki for loaded longer hauls, or
 very steep grades with the 26 low ring that its prior owner thoughtfully
 provided. So how come the fastest bike and the one with the most miles over
 the years is the Ram? Because it's just about as perfect a fit as I can
 imagine and handles really well. And its easy on the eyes as well.

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] rivish parts garage sale

2010-08-03 Thread erik jensen
I'll buy the record crankset, along with the front and rear dura ace
derailleurs. How does 120 shipped to Oakland, ca, 94610 sound?

erik

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 11:59 AM, Gary gmlmur...@mac.com wrote:

 Hi there,

 I've enjoyed lurking on this list for quite some time - thanks for all
 the great information and discussion.  I'm finally posting because
 I've been cleaning out my bike closet and have found the following
 bits that could use a new home:

 - Record 10spd 175 cranks 53/42 (pre-carbon)  Exc. condition -  $50 +
 10 shipping

 - Record 10spd Front Der. (double) braze on (pre-carbon) Exc. cond. -
 $30 + 5 shipping

 - Record 102mm carbon sleeve bottom bracket Exc. cond. - $30 + 5
 shipping

 - Brooks titanium swift seat, antique brown - moderate break-in-age  -
 $75 +10 shipping

 - VO Grand Cru Long Setback seatpost, 27.2 - like new - $30 + 5
 shipping

 - Dura Ace Rear Der. (double) - VG cond. - $35 + 5 shipping

 - Dura Ace Front Der (double) - good cond. - $25 + 5 shipping

 - Shimano 105 Rear Der (10spd, double) - exc. cond. - $30 + 5 shipping

 - Chorus Front Der (double, old style 9spd - braze on + clamp) - good
 cond. - $20 + 5 shipping

 - Chorus Rear Der (double, old style 9spd) - good cond. - $25 + 5
 shipping

 - Chorus Crank, double, 53/39, older vintage - fair cond. - $20 + 10
 shipping

 - 3T Stem 12 cm, 22.2 - good cond. - $15 + 5 shipping

 Shipping would be priority USPS, and would be less if purchasing
 multiple items. Paypal only please.  Also, if the price doesn't seem
 reasonable, please let me know!

 Please reply off list.

 Thanks so much,

 Gary
 Asheville, NC



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-- 
oakland, ca
bikenoir.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] Daruma Bolt Question

2010-08-03 Thread Rene Sterental
I acually use several thicker washers to get the front fenderline
right, depending on the biggest tire you plan to run.

René

On 8/3/10, Clayton Scott clayton...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am an idiot. Do not delete the rubber washer.

 Here is the setup I meant to write the first time around:
 the setup is fork crown, METAL WASHER, rubber washer, fender, small metal
 washer, locknut

 Sorry to add to the confusion.



 On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 11:40 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 That's very helpful!  The photo helps a lot--I will reassemble it like
 that
 before it rains.

 --Eric

 Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 3, 2010, at 11:30 AM, John McMurry johnmcmu...@gmail.com wrote:

  On Aug 3, 2:01 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
  Wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the daruma fork
 crown bolt that comes with some Honjo fenders.
 
  Basically, the daruma includes a rubber washer that seals against the
 bottom of the fork crown; a metal fender washer  sits between the
 rubber washer and the fender.  After I installed the fenders and got in
 some
 miles in the rain, I noticed that the rubber washer was sealing the
 bottom of the fork crown and preventing water that got in there from
 draining out.  In  fact, the water was migrating upward (the only way it
 could go, really) and escaping around the stem.
 
  Yeah, this can be a problem with the daruma setup.  I've noticed
  increased condensation and surface rust inside the steer tube of bikes
  that use this setup (I've since cleaned them thoroughly, sprayed a
  rust preventative in the tube, and inspect annually).  Though, I do
  think that you have the parts arranged incorrectly, which would
  exasperate this issue.
 
  From the fender crown downward, the metal fender washer should be
  installed, then the rubber washer, then the fender.  The metal washer
  doesn't provide a water tight seal, and therefore allows water/sweat
  to drain.
 
  Peter White has an example photo on his website:
 
  http://peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Accessories/bertffcb.jpg
 
  John McMurry
  Burlington, VT
 
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[RBW] FS Nitto Soba Bar 46cm

2010-08-03 Thread rperks
I have a 46cm Soba bar in near new condition for sale.  If you are not
familliar, the Soba is the same shape as the noodle, but lighter
weight, approx 300g.  This is just the ticket for the noodle fan
building up a Roadeo.  I wanted to like it but find I prefer the shape
of the RM013.

Pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rperks1/sets/72157624523886019/

$70 shipped in the U.S.

Thanks for looking
Rob

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[RBW] Re: Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread charlie
Holy Cow!..The only way one bicycle is (noticeably) faster
than another is if your position is more aerodynamic. Tire size can
make a difference but bike weight (unless it is considerable) can only
make a difference in a climb. The real difference is how hard you
pedal and whether or not you have a headwind. I think it would be very
difficult to get enough data to support a decision unless you rode all
four machines equally over thousands of miles and many years and kept
very accurate stats. Overall I think there are too many variables to
consider. Your intuition is probably as good of an indicator as a
small data base but not much better. Good fit probably improves your
power to the pedals and I believe that!

On Aug 2, 5:54 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 having a few spare minutes this week, I looked at the performance/weight 
 ratios
 of my stable of 4 bikes. This will probably surprise no one, but there isn't
 much difference between them. The bike that feels fastest, and the one I ride
 when I want to keep up is actually third fastest, and so on.  I weighed the
 bikes as they are currently built up. (I've had the Ram lighter before but 
 have
 made some comfort based changes) Brass bells, leather saddles, racks, fenders,
 saddle bags (emptied out though, pedals, bottle cages. No tools or frame 
 pumps.
 No carbon, no titanium anywhere. But real world weights. Relative speed is as
 compared to the fastest bike. Shame about how slow fastest is precludes my
 providing hard data points. There may be others who can relate.

 Rambouillet - 23 1/2 lbs  Fastest
 Nashbar Mark III - 24 lbs    +0.01 mph
 Riv Road - 24 lbs                +0.5 mph
 Saluki - 29 lbs                     +0.82 mph

 Less than 1 mph separates all of them. The Nashbar is probably the fastest if
 all the miles were on the same course. I practice hills on it because I really
 like its mustache bars for climbing. It was originally designed along the 
 lines
 of a crit racer, iirc. It's not my favorite for anything over 30 miles, as the
 position is a bit aggressive. The Riv road is what I prefer on medium to long
 rides at speed, and the Saluki for loaded longer hauls, or very steep grades
 with the 26 low ring that its prior owner thoughtfully provided. So how come 
 the
 fastest bike and the one with the most miles over the years is the
 Ram? Because it's just about as perfect a fit as I can imagine and handles
 really well. And its easy on the eyes as well.

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Re: [RBW] Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread Bruce
Patrick:

 I looked at the data for all rides this year. It's not scientific at all, as 
the average climb per mile varies a little between the bikes as does the 
average 
length of ride. Even all the tires are different.  All have about 600 miles, 
and 
I guess my point is that it has more to do with the rider, than the ride.

Tailwinds..

Bruce





From: PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tue, August 3, 2010 5:04:11 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Some comparative biking data

How did you determine the speed figures to compare? Average over same route 
over 
many laps?



  

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[RBW] Re: Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread charlie
Yea.I think we are on the same page. Hope I didn't come across
wrong initially. I just went through this with several bikes and
thought for sure one particular bike was my faster bike and it
turned out to not be ( on one particular ride on one day).  I recently
made a stem and saddle change to my all rounder.  All of a sudden I am
more comfortable and am able to apply the power to the pedals in a
smooth fashion for much longer than before when I used to get aches
and pains riding it. My intuition is that when I am comfortable on a
bike the tires and gearing make the moist difference to me. Bar height
being lower makes me faster to a point (and for short blasts) but if I
am uncomfortable for too long, I slow down and am miserable and soon
want to stop for beer.

On Aug 3, 6:30 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Patrick:

  I looked at the data for all rides this year. It's not scientific at all, as
 the average climb per mile varies a little between the bikes as does the 
 average
 length of ride. Even all the tires are different.  All have about 600 miles, 
 and
 I guess my point is that it has more to do with the rider, than the ride.

 Tailwinds..

 Bruce

 
 From: PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tue, August 3, 2010 5:04:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Some comparative biking data

 How did you determine the speed figures to compare? Average over same route 
 over
 many laps?

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[RBW] Re: New Sugino Crankset

2010-08-03 Thread Boogarich
You may also want to look at this crank from Shimano:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Product_10053_10052_502567_-1___

Of course, you will need to use the Shimano Hollowtech bottom bracket
but this crank is 50/34 and has crank lengths available in 172.5 mm.

This crankset is now on sale at Nashbar for about $210.

Take care,

 Aug 2, 11:06 am, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote:
 There was a posting a couple weeks ago about a new crankset from
 Sugino - - a 110/74 double, IIRC.

 Have these hit the market? If anyone knows how to get one, it would
 seem perfect for the Roadeo I am building.

 Any info much appreciated.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis Repaint - Silver

2010-08-03 Thread Rene Sterental
Beautiful bike. Post pictures with the bar taped, I didn't miss them, did I?

As a new Atlantis owner, I have to say that I just love it!

René

On 8/2/10, Rick richardholc...@yahoo.com wrote:
 My kudos as well, that's a great paint color and a fine looking
 Atlantis.

 Rick
 (who really should have thought harder about those last few silver
 Quickbeams).

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[RBW] Re: New Sugino Crankset

2010-08-03 Thread JoelMatthews
Seems some of you ought to check out the TA Carmina.  I am going with
a 172.5 with the 110/74 double spider for my 650b Rando.  Later if I
want a triple I can swap spiders and go either with the 110/74 triple
or 94/58.  JIS taper.



On Aug 3, 9:03 pm, Boogarich rwasiew...@socal.rr.com wrote:
 You may also want to look at this crank from 
 Shimano:http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Product_10053_10052_502567_-1___

 Of course, you will need to use the Shimano Hollowtech bottom bracket
 but this crank is 50/34 and has crank lengths available in 172.5 mm.

 This crankset is now on sale at Nashbar for about $210.

 Take care,

  Aug 2, 11:06 am, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote:



  There was a posting a couple weeks ago about a new crankset from
  Sugino - - a 110/74 double, IIRC.

  Have these hit the market? If anyone knows how to get one, it would
  seem perfect for the Roadeo I am building.

  Any info much appreciated.

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Re: [RBW] Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Thanks; makes sense: not scientific but usefully anecdotal.

Regarding Charlie's remark about position being a factor in speed: I find
very clearly that when my bars are too high, or when I am riding on the
flats, say, I generate less power. This may well be a purely individual
idiosyncrasy, of course. Riding fixed as I do, I will routinely drop into
the hooks when I round a bend into even a moderate headwind and, even, when
I encounter a gradual incline: a lower position seems to give more power as
well as doubtless being more aerodynamically efficient. Of course, on steep
climbs I ride on the flats but shove myself way back on the saddle.

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 7:30 PM, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Patrick:

  I looked at the data for all rides this year. It's not scientific at all,
 as the average climb per mile varies a little between the bikes as does the
 average length of ride. Even all the tires are different.  All have about
 600 miles, and I guess my point is that it has more to do with the rider,
 than the ride.

 Tailwinds..

 Bruce

 --
 *From:* PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Tue, August 3, 2010 5:04:11 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Some comparative biking data

 How did you determine the speed figures to compare? Average over same route
 over many laps?

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Root beer Rambouillet

2010-08-03 Thread rcnute
Wow, I love this color!  I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like
this.  http://tiny.cc/wreyu

Ryan

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[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet

2010-08-03 Thread rcnute
Try this: http://tiny.cc/maphy

Ryan

On Aug 3, 9:31 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Wow, I love this color!  I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like
 this.  http://tiny.cc/wreyu

 Ryan

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Re: [RBW] Re: Some comparative biking data

2010-08-03 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Photos of Rodeo and build specs ... please?

Patrick equally slow on all his bikes Moore

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 10:52 PM, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.comwrote:

 On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 6:27 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
  Holy Cow!..The only way one bicycle is (noticeably) faster
  than another is if your position is more aerodynamic.

 Wow! That must mean that when I ride my touring bike loaded up with
 all my stuff next month in the Sierra, I'll be just as fast as I would
 be on my unloaded Roadeo!

 Or not. I think probably not. Bike weight makes a difference on hills.
 A big weight difference makes a big speed difference.

 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
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Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Root beer Rambouillet

2010-08-03 Thread S.Cutshall
Personally, I see no root beer... just a page for TinyURL.

-Scott

On Aug 3, 9:32 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Try this:http://tiny.cc/maphy

 Ryan

 On Aug 3, 9:31 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:

  Wow, I love this color!  I don't think I've seen a Rivendell like
  this.  http://tiny.cc/wreyu

  Ryan

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