Re: [RBW] Re: Loving Tributes to Betty Foy
Riding my '88 Bridgestone MB - 2 in the woods is a blast. On 2/10/2014 9:47 PM, cyclotourist wrote: You would be amazed what a solid 90's MTB would do for you. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Show me your albatrosses!
Sean that 'Night Heron' project is stunning! How do you like the drum brakes/sa 3 speed? Is there anything you have to check with the frame to know the drum brakes arms have something to brace against? I put together a motobecane mixte for my wife last year that would be a great candidate for this sort of wheel set. Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?
I use an old, Tom Ritchey road tandem. I think it is from about 1980. It is painted metallic berry (Dupont Imron) and is fillet brazed. It is a truly, stunning bike. I got it from the second owner on craigslist in Princeton NJ. I have it set up for my12 yr old son as the stoker and myself as captian. Great bike. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Bikes in Monuments Men
Oh I am very excited to see the photos. I have an Atlantis in production right now. I would love to see some photos of it in process so maybe you caught it. Thanks for sharing. Joyce -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Bikes in Monuments Men
Joyce I saw one Atlantis already painted and ready... Also saw one that was just tubes in a box! Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Chain Line
Measuring chain line on the rear cog can be tricky, indeed. It's why I gave up years ago and bought a Park CLG-2 chain line gauge (discontinued, apparently - don't know what their substitute is, if any). BTW, they have a pretty extensive discussion about chain line measurement and shifting/noise issues on their web site at http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line One thing that puzzles, though, is this statement from Sheldon's discussion on the matter: … Most bottom brackets made since the mid-'90s are symmetrical, they stick out the same amount on each side. If you replace your present bottom bracket with one that is, say, 4 mm shorter, it will move the chainline 2 mm to the left, because it will be 2 mm shorter on each side, and the cranks will remain equally spaced from the bicycle's centerline … I'm sure this statement is true - I have a symmetrical BB spindle on my Ram - *why* is it the case? Something had to give someplace else in order for the spindle to be symmetrical and yet have a crank that lines up properly with the rear cogs. Are newer crankset spyders dished in such a way that offset the crank arm from the chain rings to maintain proper chain lines? Looking at my bike with the very old (ca. 1975) Sugino 144BCD crank, everything seems straight up and down flat, which is why it's coupled to a BB with an offset spindle. So apparently the answer is, yes, they've changed over the years and dished the crankset. Does this factor simplify or further complicate chain line calculation? On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:52:23 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: Thanks for all the input. I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's 45.5 cm chain stays, as long as there is zero (0) chain stretch. It's way off with just 0.05 inches of stretch over 12 inches of chain. On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:18:10 PM UTC+2, Jeremy Till wrote: Measuring chainline on the rear cog can be tricky. My preferred method is to put a straight edge of some kind across the locknut on the driveside and measure the distance between the straight edge and the centerline of the cog. Then, chainline=(Over locknut spacing of the rear hub)/2 minus (distance between locknut and cog centerline) Another reason that once I made the commitment that I enjoy SS/fixed riding, I've vastly preferred to use dedicated fixed or SS hubs which have a standardized chainline (usually 42mm for track hubs, 52mm for SS MTB hubs). It's much easier to measure and dial in chainline at the front with the proper crank/chainring/BB spindle length combination than at the rear. On Monday, February 10, 2014 1:15:20 AM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: I've got my Sam Hillborne set up as single speed at the moment, using a track cog, spaced and rear derailler. The setup looks straight enough to my eye, but it does rattle a bit. I'm wondering if I've got the chain line a bit off or maybe the spacers are no sufficiently tight. How does one go about measuring chain line? I can't see a simple way to get an accurate measurement with a ruler, what with all those pesky pieces of metal in the way. If it helps, I'm running a Sugino triple up front with 40/26/bashguard, 113 mm BB and a shimano 9 speed cassete hub. I use the 40T chainring pretty much exclusively, as there is no FD installed. Thanks, Jay -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] WTB: Albatross like bars
Hi Joel: I have an Albatross bar I'd sell. Installed but never really used now sitting around. Tales barcons/mtb levers. $35 shipped? Cheers, Patrick On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 4:34 PM, clipsnstaps jrster...@gmail.com wrote: To take barons and mt. bike brakes. Been a long time since I was here Hope someone has something. I also have some Nitto Drops, like new on a bike for years that was not ridden much and then, well the women I was seeing and I split so the bike has been hanging. best to all Joel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Chain Line
Whether your crankset requires a symmetrical or asymmetrical bottom bracket depends entirely on how it was designed. Classic Campagnolo Record cranksets, for instance, use an asymmetrical bottom bracket, even though the inner face of the crank spider is pretty flat. Just one more example of how bicycles are a complex and subtle animal. --Eric N campyonly...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:21 AM, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote: Measuring chain line on the rear cog can be tricky, indeed. It's why I gave up years ago and bought a Park CLG-2 chain line gauge (discontinued, apparently - don't know what their substitute is, if any). BTW, they have a pretty extensive discussion about chain line measurement and shifting/noise issues on their web site at http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line One thing that puzzles, though, is this statement from Sheldon's discussion on the matter: ... Most bottom brackets made since the mid-'90s are symmetrical, they stick out the same amount on each side. If you replace your present bottom bracket with one that is, say, 4 mm shorter, it will move the chainline 2 mm to the left, because it will be 2 mm shorter on each side, and the cranks will remain equally spaced from the bicycle's centerline ... I'm sure this statement is true - I have a symmetrical BB spindle on my Ram - why is it the case? Something had to give someplace else in order for the spindle to be symmetrical and yet have a crank that lines up properly with the rear cogs. Are newer crankset spyders dished in such a way that offset the crank arm from the chain rings to maintain proper chain lines? Looking at my bike with the very old (ca. 1975) Sugino 144BCD crank, everything seems straight up and down flat, which is why it's coupled to a BB with an offset spindle. So apparently the answer is, yes, they've changed over the years and dished the crankset. Does this factor simplify or further complicate chain line calculation? On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:52:23 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: Thanks for all the input. I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's 45.5 cm chain stays, as long as there is zero (0) chain stretch. It's way off with just 0.05 inches of stretch over 12 inches of chain. On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:18:10 PM UTC+2, Jeremy Till wrote: Measuring chainline on the rear cog can be tricky. My preferred method is to put a straight edge of some kind across the locknut on the driveside and measure the distance between the straight edge and the centerline of the cog. Then, chainline=(Over locknut spacing of the rear hub)/2 minus (distance between locknut and cog centerline) Another reason that once I made the commitment that I enjoy SS/fixed riding, I've vastly preferred to use dedicated fixed or SS hubs which have a standardized chainline (usually 42mm for track hubs, 52mm for SS MTB hubs). It's much easier to measure and dial in chainline at the front with the proper crank/chainring/BB spindle length combination than at the rear. On Monday, February 10, 2014 1:15:20 AM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: I've got my Sam Hillborne set up as single speed at the moment, using a track cog, spaced and rear derailler. The setup looks straight enough to my eye, but it does rattle a bit. I'm wondering if I've got the chain line a bit off or maybe the spacers are no sufficiently tight. How does one go about measuring chain line? I can't see a simple way to get an accurate measurement with a ruler, what with all those pesky pieces of metal in the way. If it helps, I'm running a Sugino triple up front with 40/26/bashguard, 113 mm BB and a shimano 9 speed cassete hub. I use the 40T chainring pretty much exclusively, as there is no FD installed. Thanks, Jay -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Chain Line
So Eric, would it be fair to say that the crankset/BB pretty much needs to be purchased as a matched or mated pair? This, of course, is no big deal if one is buying something like a Campy groupo, where everything is set up to work together within the same product and model, but it becomes very tricky when buying across the market (e.g., a Phil BB and a Sugino crankset, like Riv sells). You'd need to figure out and know in advance how the crank is designed before purchasing anything. Riv says that their Sugino/Phil is a match, so I guess I'd have to take their word for it. 'Course, the Phil BB as the flexibility to be moved a few millimeters one way or the other to compensate a bit, but then this can also change the distance (clearance) between the pedal end of a L or R and the respective chain stays… On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:51:39 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote: Whether your crankset requires a symmetrical or asymmetrical bottom bracket depends entirely on how it was designed. Classic Campagnolo Record cranksets, for instance, use an asymmetrical bottom bracket, even though the inner face of the crank spider is pretty flat. Just one more example of how bicycles are a complex and subtle animal. --Eric N campyo...@me.com javascript: Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:21 AM, George Schick bhi...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Measuring chain line on the rear cog can be tricky, indeed. It's why I gave up years ago and bought a Park CLG-2 chain line gauge (discontinued, apparently - don't know what their substitute is, if any). BTW, they have a pretty extensive discussion about chain line measurement and shifting/noise issues on their web site at http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line One thing that puzzles, though, is this statement from Sheldon's discussion on the matter: … Most bottom brackets made since the mid-'90s are symmetrical, they stick out the same amount on each side. If you replace your present bottom bracket with one that is, say, 4 mm shorter, it will move the chainline 2 mm to the left, because it will be 2 mm shorter on each side, and the cranks will remain equally spaced from the bicycle's centerline … I'm sure this statement is true - I have a symmetrical BB spindle on my Ram - *why* is it the case? Something had to give someplace else in order for the spindle to be symmetrical and yet have a crank that lines up properly with the rear cogs. Are newer crankset spyders dished in such a way that offset the crank arm from the chain rings to maintain proper chain lines? Looking at my bike with the very old (ca. 1975) Sugino 144BCD crank, everything seems straight up and down flat, which is why it's coupled to a BB with an offset spindle. So apparently the answer is, yes, they've changed over the years and dished the crankset. Does this factor simplify or further complicate chain line calculation? On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:52:23 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: Thanks for all the input. I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's 45.5 cm chain stays, as long as there is zero (0) chain stretch. It's way off with just 0.05 inches of stretch over 12 inches of chain. On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:18:10 PM UTC+2, Jeremy Till wrote: Measuring chainline on the rear cog can be tricky. My preferred method is to put a straight edge of some kind across the locknut on the driveside and measure the distance between the straight edge and the centerline of the cog. Then, chainline=(Over locknut spacing of the rear hub)/2 minus (distance between locknut and cog centerline) Another reason that once I made the commitment that I enjoy SS/fixed riding, I've vastly preferred to use dedicated fixed or SS hubs which have a standardized chainline (usually 42mm for track hubs, 52mm for SS MTB hubs). It's much easier to measure and dial in chainline at the front with the proper crank/chainring/BB spindle length combination than at the rear. On Monday, February 10, 2014 1:15:20 AM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: I've got my Sam Hillborne set up as single speed at the moment, using a track cog, spaced and rear derailler. The setup looks straight enough to my eye, but it does rattle a bit. I'm wondering if I've got the chain line a bit off or maybe the spacers are no sufficiently tight. How does one go about measuring chain line? I can't see a simple way to get an accurate measurement with a ruler, what with all those pesky pieces of metal in the way. If it helps, I'm running a Sugino triple up front with 40/26/bashguard, 113 mm BB and a shimano 9 speed cassete hub. I use the 40T chainring pretty much exclusively, as there is no FD
Re: [RBW] Chain Line
That's exactly correct. The folks at Phil Wood, for instance, are in my experience very knowledgeable about the length and style of bottom bracket that will match any given crankset. And ... to make things even more fun, there are slight differences in the tapers on square BB spindles between Campagnolo and everything else. You can make them work across platforms, but a Campy crankset is best used with a Campy bottom bracket. --Eric N campyonly...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 9:12 AM, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote: So Eric, would it be fair to say that the crankset/BB pretty much needs to be purchased as a matched or mated pair? This, of course, is no big deal if one is buying something like a Campy groupo, where everything is set up to work together within the same product and model, but it becomes very tricky when buying across the market (e.g., a Phil BB and a Sugino crankset, like Riv sells). You'd need to figure out and know in advance how the crank is designed before purchasing anything. Riv says that their Sugino/Phil is a match, so I guess I'd have to take their word for it. 'Course, the Phil BB as the flexibility to be moved a few millimeters one way or the other to compensate a bit, but then this can also change the distance (clearance) between the pedal end of a L or R and the respective chain stays... On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:51:39 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote: Whether your crankset requires a symmetrical or asymmetrical bottom bracket depends entirely on how it was designed. Classic Campagnolo Record cranksets, for instance, use an asymmetrical bottom bracket, even though the inner face of the crank spider is pretty flat. Just one more example of how bicycles are a complex and subtle animal. --Eric N campyo...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:21 AM, George Schick bhi...@gmail.com wrote: Measuring chain line on the rear cog can be tricky, indeed. It's why I gave up years ago and bought a Park CLG-2 chain line gauge (discontinued, apparently - don't know what their substitute is, if any). BTW, they have a pretty extensive discussion about chain line measurement and shifting/noise issues on their web site at http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line One thing that puzzles, though, is this statement from Sheldon's discussion on the matter: ... Most bottom brackets made since the mid-'90s are symmetrical, they stick out the same amount on each side. If you replace your present bottom bracket with one that is, say, 4 mm shorter, it will move the chainline 2 mm to the left, because it will be 2 mm shorter on each side, and the cranks will remain equally spaced from the bicycle's centerline ... I'm sure this statement is true - I have a symmetrical BB spindle on my Ram - why is it the case? Something had to give someplace else in order for the spindle to be symmetrical and yet have a crank that lines up properly with the rear cogs. Are newer crankset spyders dished in such a way that offset the crank arm from the chain rings to maintain proper chain lines? Looking at my bike with the very old (ca. 1975) Sugino 144BCD crank, everything seems straight up and down flat, which is why it's coupled to a BB with an offset spindle. So apparently the answer is, yes, they've changed over the years and dished the crankset. Does this factor simplify or further complicate chain line calculation? On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:52:23 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: Thanks for all the input. I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's 45.5 cm chain stays, as long as there is zero (0) chain stretch. It's way off with just 0.05 inches of stretch over 12 inches of chain. On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:18:10 PM UTC+2, Jeremy Till wrote: Measuring chainline on the rear cog can be tricky. My preferred method is to put a straight edge of some kind across the locknut on the driveside and measure the distance between the straight edge and the centerline of the cog. Then, chainline=(Over locknut spacing of the rear hub)/2 minus (distance between locknut and cog centerline) Another reason that once I made the commitment that I enjoy SS/fixed riding, I've vastly preferred to use dedicated fixed or SS hubs which have a standardized chainline (usually 42mm for track hubs, 52mm for SS MTB hubs). It's much easier to measure and dial in chainline at the front with the proper crank/chainring/BB spindle length combination than at the rear. On Monday, February 10, 2014 1:15:20 AM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: I've got my Sam Hillborne set up as single speed
Re: [RBW] Chain Line
If you have a crankset that matches the Campy BB specs (length, taper, BB shell width) for the cooresponding Campy crankset, is the Campy BB still preferable? Rivaciously, Daniel On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 9:15 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: That's exactly correct. The folks at Phil Wood, for instance, are in my experience very knowledgeable about the length and style of bottom bracket that will match any given crankset. And ... to make things even more fun, there are slight differences in the tapers on square BB spindles between Campagnolo and everything else. You can make them work across platforms, but a Campy crankset is best used with a Campy bottom bracket. --Eric N campyonly...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 9:12 AM, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote: So Eric, would it be fair to say that the crankset/BB pretty much needs to be purchased as a matched or mated pair? This, of course, is no big deal if one is buying something like a Campy groupo, where everything is set up to work together within the same product and model, but it becomes very tricky when buying across the market (e.g., a Phil BB and a Sugino crankset, like Riv sells). You'd need to figure out and know in advance how the crank is designed before purchasing anything. Riv says that their Sugino/Phil is a match, so I guess I'd have to take their word for it. 'Course, the Phil BB as the flexibility to be moved a few millimeters one way or the other to compensate a bit, but then this can also change the distance (clearance) between the pedal end of a L or R and the respective chain stays... On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:51:39 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote: Whether your crankset requires a symmetrical or asymmetrical bottom bracket depends entirely on how it was designed. Classic Campagnolo Record cranksets, for instance, use an asymmetrical bottom bracket, even though the inner face of the crank spider is pretty flat. Just one more example of how bicycles are a complex and subtle animal. --Eric N campyo...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:21 AM, George Schick bhi...@gmail.com wrote: Measuring chain line on the rear cog can be tricky, indeed. It's why I gave up years ago and bought a Park CLG-2 chain line gauge (discontinued, apparently - don't know what their substitute is, if any). BTW, they have a pretty extensive discussion about chain line measurement and shifting/noise issues on their web site at http://www.parktool.com/ blog/repair-help/chain-line One thing that puzzles, though, is this statement from Sheldon's discussion on the matter: ... Most bottom brackets made since the mid-'90s are symmetrical, they stick out the same amount on each side. If you replace your present bottom bracket with one that is, say, 4 mm shorter, it will move the chainline 2 mm to the left, because it will be 2 mm shorter on each side, and the cranks will remain equally spaced from the bicycle's centerline ... I'm sure this statement is true - I have a symmetrical BB spindle on my Ram - *why* is it the case? Something had to give someplace else in order for the spindle to be symmetrical and yet have a crank that lines up properly with the rear cogs. Are newer crankset spyders dished in such a way that offset the crank arm from the chain rings to maintain proper chain lines? Looking at my bike with the very old (ca. 1975) Sugino 144BCD crank, everything seems straight up and down flat, which is why it's coupled to a BB with an offset spindle. So apparently the answer is, yes, they've changed over the years and dished the crankset. Does this factor simplify or further complicate chain line calculation? On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:52:23 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: Thanks for all the input. I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's 45.5 cm chain stays, as long as there is zero (0) chain stretch. It's way off with just 0.05 inches of stretch over 12 inches of chain. On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:18:10 PM UTC+2, Jeremy Till wrote: Measuring chainline on the rear cog can be tricky. My preferred method is to put a straight edge of some kind across the locknut on the driveside and measure the distance between the straight edge and the centerline of the cog. Then, chainline=(Over locknut spacing of the rear hub)/2 minus (distance between locknut and cog centerline) Another reason that once I made the commitment that I enjoy SS/fixed riding, I've vastly preferred to use dedicated fixed or SS hubs which have a standardized chainline (usually 42mm for track hubs, 52mm for SS MTB hubs). It's much easier to measure and dial in chainline
[RBW] Re: FS: 58 Rambouillet Green complete bike - $1400 shipped - bump and price drop
Hello Dan, A friend on this list told me about this bike, I'd love to take a look (I live in SF). What's the best way to get in touch? Thank you! Franz Kunst On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:08:30 AM UTC-8, danmc wrote: Some tire kicking but nothing solid so far. $50 off for local SF Bay Area sales. Open to parting out if someone is interested in the frame or some group of components. Thanks for looking! - After lots of pondering I have decided to offer up my green 2006 58cm Ram for sale. Need to thin the herd and prep for an unexpected arrival in 6.5 months or so. Not a bicycle arrival, either. It is a great bike. Nice but not perfect shape. Beausage but not too much. No dents. I bought the bike from the first owner - time to move it forward with a few upgrades. Some original and some new parts. I had just gotten into replacing the bar tape and brake levers when I made the decision so decided to leave the brake cables bar wrap for the new owner to complete. I am including new brake cables/ black housing and a package of the natural cork tape from RBW to complete things. The brake housing run from the rear TT stop to the rear brake is fine and recent so I am leaving that as is. Here are the build details: 58 cm Rambouillet: Mavic Open Pro / Ultegra hubs Grand Bois Cypres 30 tires - recent Ultegra headset Origin 8 brake levers (Tektro R340) - new Tektro R539 brakes - recent Shimano 105 triple front Der Deore LX rear der Sugino triple crankset 48/36/26 Shimano HG-61 11-34 cassette - recent Shimano 9-speed chain - recent Shimano 9-speed bar ends - indexes properly if you want to go that way. Nitto Noodles 46cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem 8cm Nitto 65 seatpost Not including the saddle, pedals/clips, or bottle cages. I am including an extra pair of new in package GB Cypres 30 tires. So 4 tires total. Link to some photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/3owvcanep0srgok/BC5eyQrHXk Let me know if there are problems accessing the images. Questions? Ask away. Dan -Marin / Berkeley -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Chain Line
That would depend on the BB and what your priorities are. Campy bottom brackets from the classic era are rebuildable and can last pretty much forever if they're taken care of. Many riders, however, prefer sealed units, which Campy started making later on. I run both types on my bikes, and they all work well. Phil bottom brackets are very nice and are rebuildable (although for most folks this involves sending the unit back to Phil). I've had issues with Phil BBs (bearings failing) that I haven't had with less expensive options. I haven't tried the new bottom brackets that Jan Heine sells, but they look very nice. --Eric N www.CampyOnly.com CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy On Feb 11, 2014, at 9:21 AM, Daniel Adams rivwasri...@gmail.com wrote: If you have a crankset that matches the Campy BB specs (length, taper, BB shell width) for the cooresponding Campy crankset, is the Campy BB still preferable? Rivaciously, Daniel On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 9:15 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: That’s exactly correct. The folks at Phil Wood, for instance, are in my experience very knowledgeable about the length and style of bottom bracket that will match any given crankset. And … to make things even more fun, there are slight differences in the tapers on square BB spindles between Campagnolo and everything else. You can make them work across platforms, but a Campy crankset is best used with a Campy bottom bracket. --Eric N campyonly...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 9:12 AM, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote: So Eric, would it be fair to say that the crankset/BB pretty much needs to be purchased as a matched or mated pair? This, of course, is no big deal if one is buying something like a Campy groupo, where everything is set up to work together within the same product and model, but it becomes very tricky when buying across the market (e.g., a Phil BB and a Sugino crankset, like Riv sells). You'd need to figure out and know in advance how the crank is designed before purchasing anything. Riv says that their Sugino/Phil is a match, so I guess I'd have to take their word for it. 'Course, the Phil BB as the flexibility to be moved a few millimeters one way or the other to compensate a bit, but then this can also change the distance (clearance) between the pedal end of a L or R and the respective chain stays… On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:51:39 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote: Whether your crankset requires a symmetrical or asymmetrical bottom bracket depends entirely on how it was designed. Classic Campagnolo Record cranksets, for instance, use an asymmetrical bottom bracket, even though the inner face of the crank spider is pretty flat. Just one more example of how bicycles are a complex and subtle animal. --Eric N campyo...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:21 AM, George Schick bhi...@gmail.com wrote: Measuring chain line on the rear cog can be tricky, indeed. It's why I gave up years ago and bought a Park CLG-2 chain line gauge (discontinued, apparently - don't know what their substitute is, if any). BTW, they have a pretty extensive discussion about chain line measurement and shifting/noise issues on their web site at http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line One thing that puzzles, though, is this statement from Sheldon's discussion on the matter: … Most bottom brackets made since the mid-'90s are symmetrical, they stick out the same amount on each side. If you replace your present bottom bracket with one that is, say, 4 mm shorter, it will move the chainline 2 mm to the left, because it will be 2 mm shorter on each side, and the cranks will remain equally spaced from the bicycle's centerline … I'm sure this statement is true - I have a symmetrical BB spindle on my Ram - why is it the case? Something had to give someplace else in order for the spindle to be symmetrical and yet have a crank that lines up properly with the rear cogs. Are newer crankset spyders dished in such a way that offset the crank arm from the chain rings to maintain proper chain lines? Looking at my bike with the very old (ca. 1975) Sugino 144BCD crank, everything seems straight up and down flat, which is why it's coupled to a BB with an offset spindle. So apparently the answer is, yes, they've changed over the years and dished the crankset. Does this factor simplify or further complicate chain line calculation? On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:52:23 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: Thanks for all the input. I tried the magic gear thing and couldn't make it work. Looking at the calculator, I think I now understand why. It shows my 40/16 gear as a perfect match with a 100 link chain and the Sam's
Re: [RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?
http://www.bikefriday.com/bicycles/tandem/322 I have a Bike Friday Family Tandem. It is a twenty inch wheel bike, and the small wheels lets you have a lot of flexibility -- It works as well with two adults as it does with very little kids in back -- and without the clamp on kid tandem crank**. I rode it to school with my 4 year old daughter as the stoker -- (now 13!) and I've also been the stoker myself, with my brother up front. It is technically a folding bike, but I've rarely taken it apart. It goes nicely up on a Yakima rack on my Volvo 240 wagon. ** for really little stokers, I have crank shorteners which thread in where the pedal usually goes, and gives you three shorter options for the pedals. Another cool thing is the use of a Sachs 3x7 rear hub, which makes a front derailleur unnecessary, and lets you run the timing chain on the right side, connecting the stoker's small ring to a right side crank in front. -- no need for tandem specific cranks. Also very nice to be able to downshift the internal gear 3spd hub when stopped. I currently use it mostly to haul groceries with a burley trailer. Bike Friday even makes a Family Tandem Triple! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Longboard installation
I have recently installed two sets of Longboards after not having used plastic fenders for a decade. The first installation, on Pat's new Betty Foy took me somewhat longer than I anticipated, which I attributed to inexperience, but came out fine. The second installation, purchased to replace a broken Honjo, (after many years of use) on my Ram has proven to be downright frustrating. Two issues came up; one took a lot of struggle to resolve and the second looks unresolvable. Starting with #2, the front fender is set about 10 mm above the Grand Bois Cerf tire, which allows plenty of clearance for the Paul's CP brakes. But the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire. I don't suppose this is a real problem but it does look a bit off to my eye. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. They kept pulling off to the left. Some of this may be me but some of the difficulty resides in the new clips. The SKS fenders I remember threaded the stays through the metal clip and then you added a plastic cap, and/or cut them off if you wanted to. I would never cut them off unless I was installing the maximum size tire possible and still had a lot of stay sticking up, which didn't actually happen. The new clips require estimating the length, cutting the stays, threading the stays through the lock nut and cap, then coming back and adjusting the fender line at the end of the process. Because the fenders didn't want to center on the tire I repeatedly loosened the nuts to readjust. Sometimes this resulted in the stays springing out of the clips and flinging the compression nut across the shop floor. Of course I needed to take the whole thing apart and check that the stays weren't upside down and were both the same length. They were right. I expended a lot of energy worrying about whether the stays were too long. or too short. I watched the installation video on the RBW website twice, which makes it look easy, but offers no trouble shooting counsel. I'm not sure if there is a question in all of this, except maybe, am I all alone in the universe? Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Loving Tributes to Betty Foy
I'd love to write praises of Betty. But I can't yet. Pat rode this bike when we were in Ca., but never wants to spend money on herself, so we passed. I leaped when the demo went on sale, so the bike has been ridden by lots of folks. When Betty arrived here my shop was full of stuff from the basement which was occupying my attention with a new heating system. I set Betty up in the entry foyer and put her together where she still stands getting oohs and ahas. Ask again after winter and mud season. Michael Westford, VT On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 12:07:35 AM UTC-5, Cecily Walker wrote: I love riding in the dirt. I was surprised by how much I loved it, but maybe I shouldn't have been - before my osteoarthritis got really bad, I used to love trail running, too. I think with a different set of wheels/tires, Betty could take me on most of the trails I'd be happiest on in the area, but I'm pretty sure she isn't North Shore ready. To be honest, I'm not sure I am, either. But I do love a challenge! :-D On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:47:05 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Leah, I must have missed your nearly getting kicked off for your Betty-love. The Betty Foy is one of Rivendell's best selling bikes, coming close to the Atlantis IIRC. Maybe not as well represented in this online space, but holding it's own IRL!!! Cecily, I can't say enough, get whatever bike makes you comfortable out in the dirt. There's something wonderful about riding a bike in the woods that is just magical. You don't have to get a full on North Shore approved bike, but that is your neighborhood! You would be amazed what a solid 90's MTB would do for you. Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 7:17 PM, Cecily Walker cecily...@gmail.comwrote: I'm headed toward the devotee camp myself. A friend just bought a super-duper high end downhill mountain bike, and I want to accompany her on some of the less strenuous but somewhat demanding single track rides that I can't do on the Betty Foy (because I'm too heavy in the saddle). I am seriously contemplating adding a Hunqapillar to my Rivendell stable. I have no idea how I'm going to pay for it, but I have no doubt that it will eventually happen. On Monday, February 10, 2014 12:02:51 PM UTC-8, grrlyrida wrote: Six years ago I went to Riv HQ and rode a Betty Foy for half the day. It was one of the best experiences I've had at a bike shop. I guess I was hanging around so long and riding every size of the Betty Foy that I met Grant and he said I should get the larger size. I didn't want to leave. I never bought a Betty Foy. I bought a custom Riv mixte instead. But I remember what a smooth enjoyable ride that Betty was. I was smiling while I rode around Walnut Creek. I was a Riv convert before I rode Betty, but afterward I became a devotee. On Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:58:58 PM UTC-8, Cecily Walker wrote: I've read many loving tributes to Sams, Hilsens, Hunqapillars and other Riv bikes over the last few years, but there is precious little writing out there about the joys of owning and riding a Betty Foy. I'm familiar with Lovely Bicycle's faint praise, and I've read and re-read the posts (and seen the videos) from the women of Let's Go Ride a Bike, but I've always found it odd that there isn't a lot out there about the history of the Betty Foy, the fun people have had in the saddle, or musings about what the Foy has meant to the lucky woman (or man) who owns one. Even Rivendell's site is scant when it comes to copy about the Foy, saying only that you can do equally well on a Betty Foy what you can do on a Sam. That's the equivalent of saying Yeah, so's your sister. And now that Betty Foy (and her brother Yves) are nearing the end of their model lives, I fear that I'll never learn all there is to learn, or read all there is to read about this bike that I've come to love so much. Unless I write it myself, of course... Feeling thinky on a Saturday night, Cecily -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
You're not alone I as far as my experience goes - I detest those new style clips and don't use them. I stick to the old method where I can get everything trued up with respect to the tire line and then cut off the excess. You can then cut the end-cap part of the new fangled clip and slide it over the properly trimmed to length stay. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 3:23:15 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote: I have recently installed two sets of Longboards after not having used plastic fenders for a decade. The first installation, on Pat's new Betty Foy took me somewhat longer than I anticipated, which I attributed to inexperience, but came out fine. The second installation, purchased to replace a broken Honjo, (after many years of use) on my Ram has proven to be downright frustrating. Two issues came up; one took a lot of struggle to resolve and the second looks unresolvable. Starting with #2, the front fender is set about 10 mm above the Grand Bois Cerf tire, which allows plenty of clearance for the Paul's CP brakes. But the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire. I don't suppose this is a real problem but it does look a bit off to my eye. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. They kept pulling off to the left. Some of this may be me but some of the difficulty resides in the new clips. The SKS fenders I remember threaded the stays through the metal clip and then you added a plastic cap, and/or cut them off if you wanted to. I would never cut them off unless I was installing the maximum size tire possible and still had a lot of stay sticking up, which didn't actually happen. The new clips require estimating the length, cutting the stays, threading the stays through the lock nut and cap, then coming back and adjusting the fender line at the end of the process. Because the fenders didn't want to center on the tire I repeatedly loosened the nuts to readjust. Sometimes this resulted in the stays springing out of the clips and flinging the compression nut across the shop floor. Of course I needed to take the whole thing apart and check that the stays weren't upside down and were both the same length. They were right. I expended a lot of energy worrying about whether the stays were too long. or too short. I watched the installation video on the RBW website twice, which makes it look easy, but offers no trouble shooting counsel. I'm not sure if there is a question in all of this, except maybe, am I all alone in the universe? Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Longboard installation
You are not alone! I just installed some last night and had the same issues. Front tip: Bend the fork attachment clip to lower the front. And/or lengthen the upper stays. I also find that snugging the fender up to the bottom of the fork/brake is vital for good alignment. The bent tip from the video is a good hint to get them tighter. Center: They all seem to curl to one side. I manhandle them in the opposite direction (before mounting) to get them to curl back. You can also angle the fork attachment clip to the other side (tilt left or right of vertical) to adjust the centering. The stay clips/nuts can be fine tuned to center the rear of the fender, but the front is tricky. It's even harder with sidepulls. The clips and brackets kinda suck because they're so easy to bend. But that also means you can bend them to fine-tune your setup. Tim On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 3:23 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote: I have recently installed two sets of Longboards after not having used plastic fenders for a decade. The first installation, on Pat's new Betty Foy took me somewhat longer than I anticipated, which I attributed to inexperience, but came out fine. The second installation, purchased to replace a broken Honjo, (after many years of use) on my Ram has proven to be downright frustrating. Two issues came up; one took a lot of struggle to resolve and the second looks unresolvable. Starting with #2, the front fender is set about 10 mm above the Grand Bois Cerf tire, which allows plenty of clearance for the Paul's CP brakes. But the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire. I don't suppose this is a real problem but it does look a bit off to my eye. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. They kept pulling off to the left. Some of this may be me but some of the difficulty resides in the new clips. The SKS fenders I remember threaded the stays through the metal clip and then you added a plastic cap, and/or cut them off if you wanted to. I would never cut them off unless I was installing the maximum size tire possible and still had a lot of stay sticking up, which didn't actually happen. The new clips require estimating the length, cutting the stays, threading the stays through the lock nut and cap, then coming back and adjusting the fender line at the end of the process. Because the fenders didn't want to center on the tire I repeatedly loosened the nuts to readjust. Sometimes this resulted in the stays springing out of the clips and flinging the compression nut across the shop floor. Of course I needed to take the whole thing apart and check that the stays weren't upside down and were both the same length. They were right. I expended a lot of energy worrying about whether the stays were too long. or too short. I watched the installation video on the RBW website twice, which makes it look easy, but offers no trouble shooting counsel. I'm not sure if there is a question in all of this, except maybe, am I all alone in the universe? Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
Michael, Here is my thread on the same subject. Or read below. I went through the same two problems that you are having with my Fenders. 1. ON the SKS website, P45's are listed as Rim 28, which may mean that their curve is for 28 rimmed wheels. Maybe that is why the nose sticks out like a motorcross bike, and why it is so hard to get them contoured, centered, and fenderline right. My front fender nose sticks out on both of my bikes, and the pictures I have seen of of RBW bikes they also stick out, including the installation video if you pause it carefully to look right at the end. The only solution I know of is to use a front rack or some other doo-dad that has a foot that will hold it down. I have tried a lot of times, but nothing brings it down. Maybe Sheldon nut, mounting the bridge behind the fork crown? 2. Centering. It is a lot of tweaking to get it right. Just keep trying. a. Maybe loosen dropout eyelet attachment bolt so fender will move freely as you adjust the stays, and then after you get everything where you want it, just tighten the eyelet bolts then. b. Loosen all stay nuts and start centering from fork crown to rear stay in that order. And for the rear wheel, chainstay attachment to brake attachment to rear, in that order, so at least it is orderly. I almost never get the fender perfectly centered, but close enough. Also fenderline is never perfect. I would use metal fenders, but I like the quick release feature of the SKS fenders. They look great, too! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
Oops, here is the thread. I don't think any solutions were found though.: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/sks$20fender/rbw-owners-bunch/2ffukzG8Q48/tmErT6mnQVIJ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
Here is mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/11016791525/in/set-72157633085407086 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
And on the Bleriot: http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/11882252364/in/set-72157639592411145 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Longboard installation
Same comments as Tim. The front fender (Longboard) on my Blériot also pointed up, so I bent the bracket at the fork to make it point a little more downward. I haven't had problems with the rear fender curling out of line, but the front of the front fender insists on pointing a tiny bit off center. I haven't been bothered enough to fix it, but I think a little more time with an allen wrench would fix that problem. --Eric N campyonly...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 1:39 PM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com wrote: You are not alone! I just installed some last night and had the same issues. Front tip: Bend the fork attachment clip to lower the front. And/or lengthen the upper stays. I also find that snugging the fender up to the bottom of the fork/brake is vital for good alignment. The bent tip from the video is a good hint to get them tighter. Center: They all seem to curl to one side. I manhandle them in the opposite direction (before mounting) to get them to curl back. You can also angle the fork attachment clip to the other side (tilt left or right of vertical) to adjust the centering. The stay clips/nuts can be fine tuned to center the rear of the fender, but the front is tricky. It's even harder with sidepulls. The clips and brackets kinda suck because they're so easy to bend. But that also means you can bend them to fine-tune your setup. Tim On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 3:23 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote: I have recently installed two sets of Longboards after not having used plastic fenders for a decade. The first installation, on Pat's new Betty Foy took me somewhat longer than I anticipated, which I attributed to inexperience, but came out fine. The second installation, purchased to replace a broken Honjo, (after many years of use) on my Ram has proven to be downright frustrating. Two issues came up; one took a lot of struggle to resolve and the second looks unresolvable. Starting with #2, the front fender is set about 10 mm above the Grand Bois Cerf tire, which allows plenty of clearance for the Paul's CP brakes. But the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire. I don't suppose this is a real problem but it does look a bit off to my eye. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. They kept pulling off to the left. Some of this may be me but some of the difficulty resides in the new clips. The SKS fenders I remember threaded the stays through the metal clip and then you added a plastic cap, and/or cut them off if you wanted to. I would never cut them off unless I was installing the maximum size tire possible and still had a lot of stay sticking up, which didn't actually happen. The new clips require estimating the length, cutting the stays, threading the stays through the lock nut and cap, then coming back and adjusting the fender line at the end of the process. Because the fenders didn't want to center on the tire I repeatedly loosened the nuts to readjust. Sometimes this resulted in the stays springing out of the clips and flinging the compression nut across the shop floor. Of course I needed to take the whole thing apart and check that the stays weren't upside down and were both the same length. They were right. I expended a lot of energy worrying about whether the stays were too long. or too short. I watched the installation video on the RBW website twice, which makes it look easy, but offers no trouble shooting counsel. I'm not sure if there is a question in all of this, except maybe, am I all alone in the universe? Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to
Re: [RBW] Longboard installation
I guess the secret to the front tip-up is: Hiding it under a rack and/or basket so you never notice it. :) Tim -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Longboard installation
Here are photos of Monsieur Blérioit's front fender before and after bending the mounting tab: Before: http://flic.kr/p/iPDLVW After: http://flic.kr/p/jviseA Took about 2 minutes to make the adjustment, and the fender line looks much better. --Eric N campyonly...@me.com Web: www.campyonly.com Twitter: @campyonlyguy Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com On Feb 11, 2014, at 2:06 PM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com wrote: I guess the secret to the front tip-up is: Hiding it under a rack and/or basket so you never notice it. :) Tim -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?
Was wondering. Also, do metal fenders pretty much align themselves since they don't bend? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?
I love my Honjo fenders and coverage is great http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1170017.jpg I believe they're as long as longboards. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 4:17:35 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote: Was wondering. Also, do metal fenders pretty much align themselves since they don't bend? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?
I love metal fenders, personally. I know they are less safe but they did fine for over 100 years on millions of bikes. On Feb 11, 2014 5:47 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote: I love my Honjo fenders and coverage is great http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1170017.jpg I believe they're as long as longboards. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 4:17:35 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote: Was wondering. Also, do metal fenders pretty much align themselves since they don't bend? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?
they really don't self-align - they snug nicely at the brake/crown mounts, but you have to align the rear third by the position on the stay dharuma, and the tail end by the length adjustment on the stays. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aP4130011.jpg On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 4:17:35 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote: Was wondering. Also, do metal fenders pretty much align themselves since they don't bend? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?
Berthouds use plastic clips for the stays that experience has shown will move when the fender gets hit from the rear. The Berthouds stay in alignment better than SKS chromoplastics. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
If stays are springing things across the shop floor, you should pre-bend them so they aren't storing so much stress. If you don't, those sprung stays are in a perpetual tug-o-war on your bike and invariably one side will win, and you'll feel like you have to readjust your lame fenders over and over. Eliminate as many of the stored up stresses as possible at install-time and you can minimize that. I always do the install without the new fangled plastic clip. Once it is dialed, only then do I mark the stays for cutting. Then I remove, cut, and re-install with the new fangled clip in place. It's time consuming, but it takes me a while to get through that bottle of wine, anyway. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 1:23:15 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote: I have recently installed two sets of Longboards after not having used plastic fenders for a decade. The first installation, on Pat's new Betty Foy took me somewhat longer than I anticipated, which I attributed to inexperience, but came out fine. The second installation, purchased to replace a broken Honjo, (after many years of use) on my Ram has proven to be downright frustrating. Two issues came up; one took a lot of struggle to resolve and the second looks unresolvable. Starting with #2, the front fender is set about 10 mm above the Grand Bois Cerf tire, which allows plenty of clearance for the Paul's CP brakes. But the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire. I don't suppose this is a real problem but it does look a bit off to my eye. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. They kept pulling off to the left. Some of this may be me but some of the difficulty resides in the new clips. The SKS fenders I remember threaded the stays through the metal clip and then you added a plastic cap, and/or cut them off if you wanted to. I would never cut them off unless I was installing the maximum size tire possible and still had a lot of stay sticking up, which didn't actually happen. The new clips require estimating the length, cutting the stays, threading the stays through the lock nut and cap, then coming back and adjusting the fender line at the end of the process. Because the fenders didn't want to center on the tire I repeatedly loosened the nuts to readjust. Sometimes this resulted in the stays springing out of the clips and flinging the compression nut across the shop floor. Of course I needed to take the whole thing apart and check that the stays weren't upside down and were both the same length. They were right. I expended a lot of energy worrying about whether the stays were too long. or too short. I watched the installation video on the RBW website twice, which makes it look easy, but offers no trouble shooting counsel. I'm not sure if there is a question in all of this, except maybe, am I all alone in the universe? Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Longboard installation
… it takes me a while to get through that bottle of wine, anyway … Bill, I like the way you think/work. I do the same only in my case it's usually a craft beer. A California brewer by the name of Firestone Walker makes these excellent products that get shipped all the way out here to the Midwest. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:55:20 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote: If stays are springing things across the shop floor, you should pre-bend them so they aren't storing so much stress. If you don't, those sprung stays are in a perpetual tug-o-war on your bike and invariably one side will win, and you'll feel like you have to readjust your lame fenders over and over. Eliminate as many of the stored up stresses as possible at install-time and you can minimize that. I always do the install without the new fangled plastic clip. Once it is dialed, only then do I mark the stays for cutting. Then I remove, cut, and re-install with the new fangled clip in place. It's time consuming, but it takes me a while to get through that bottle of wine, anyway. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 1:23:15 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote: I have recently installed two sets of Longboards after not having used plastic fenders for a decade. The first installation, on Pat's new Betty Foy took me somewhat longer than I anticipated, which I attributed to inexperience, but came out fine. The second installation, purchased to replace a broken Honjo, (after many years of use) on my Ram has proven to be downright frustrating. Two issues came up; one took a lot of struggle to resolve and the second looks unresolvable. Starting with #2, the front fender is set about 10 mm above the Grand Bois Cerf tire, which allows plenty of clearance for the Paul's CP brakes. But the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire. I don't suppose this is a real problem but it does look a bit off to my eye. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. They kept pulling off to the left. Some of this may be me but some of the difficulty resides in the new clips. The SKS fenders I remember threaded the stays through the metal clip and then you added a plastic cap, and/or cut them off if you wanted to. I would never cut them off unless I was installing the maximum size tire possible and still had a lot of stay sticking up, which didn't actually happen. The new clips require estimating the length, cutting the stays, threading the stays through the lock nut and cap, then coming back and adjusting the fender line at the end of the process. Because the fenders didn't want to center on the tire I repeatedly loosened the nuts to readjust. Sometimes this resulted in the stays springing out of the clips and flinging the compression nut across the shop floor. Of course I needed to take the whole thing apart and check that the stays weren't upside down and were both the same length. They were right. I expended a lot of energy worrying about whether the stays were too long. or too short. I watched the installation video on the RBW website twice, which makes it look easy, but offers no trouble shooting counsel. I'm not sure if there is a question in all of this, except maybe, am I all alone in the universe? Michael -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Longboard installation
On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 2:23 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote: the front tip of the fender sticks up a full 30 mm from the tire If you can, raise the fender at the attachment point behind the fork crown (if you use the brake bolt mount), if necessary filing the slot deeper. Successfully improved aesthetics of front PB fender last year this way. If you bolt underneath, sometimes extending the stays helps, though this raises its own issues. The second problem was trying to get the fenders, both front and back, centered on the tire. Have not encountered these horrible, new stay clips, I am happy to say. -- Albuquerque, NM, USA Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] BLUG bike
The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] BLUG bike
Woohoo! Top shelf, all the way! Is the lucky owner on the list? cheers, Andrew From: Curtis McKenzie cmcy...@gmail.com To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18 PM Subject: [RBW] BLUG bike The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
What model is IT? On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18:07 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: BLUG bike
Looking at the decals it's a custom. On Feb 11, 2014 8:46 PM, Kellie Stapleton kellie.staple...@gmail.com wrote: What model is IT? On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18:07 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
Is that the contest winner's bike? On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18:07 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
thanks for pointing it out - stunning bike from end to end On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 7:18:07 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
Not Liesl’s bike, that one can be found further down in the BLUG. Very similiar to Sumehra's bike (Also known as SMP on this board. Very nice indeed. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:56:23 PM UTC-5, Don Compton wrote: Is that the contest winner's bike? On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18:07 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: BLUG bike
It is stunning, I love the no expense spared look. On Feb 11, 2014 9:07 PM, blakcloud blakclou...@gmail.com wrote: Not Liesl's bike, that one can be found further down in the BLUG. Very similiar to Sumehra's bike (Also known as SMP on this board. Very nice indeed. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:56:23 PM UTC-5, Don Compton wrote: Is that the contest winner's bike? On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18:07 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: BLUG bike
Looks like some Wilbury and Saluki lugs with lovely curved stays, great color scheme. Gorgeous end result. On 2/11/2014 7:56 PM, Don Compton wrote: Is that the contest winner's bike? On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:18:07 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Free Riv Readers in Seattle
Hi, all: I have a bunch of old Readers a local Rivendellian gave me a few years back, time to pass them on. Email me if you're local and want to pick them up in north Seattle. Thanks! Ryan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
Maybe Glorius? They had curved stays fancy lugs. It's also got the new Nitto rear rack with lower pannier bars short or no tombstone. Beautiful paint scheme. A lucky someone's Valentines Day present maybe? dougP On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 6:04:23 PM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote: thanks for pointing it out - stunning bike from end to end On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 7:18:07 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote: The head tube on the BLUG bicycle is amazing. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
And just think...that is probably one of the best made and nicest bike frames made in the world right now, not to mention the build. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: BLUG bike
And again with the flat rear rack - no tombstone hump. A beautiful clean look. - Andrew, Berkeley On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 7:52:18 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote: And just think...that is probably one of the best made and nicest bike frames made in the world right now, not to mention the build. Wow! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Loving Tributes to Betty Foy
That's funny Cecily. I was laughing reading your reply because now I think I need to get a Sam for touring. I don't have money and either and I haven't been on a tour since 2008, but just in case ... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] BLUG bike
That's a gorgeous bike. Similar to my custom but different color, cranks and brakes. Plus it has a beautiful back rack. I want that rack!! Oh when will it be available?!!! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Multiple grand randonnees on a Rivendell.
@ Iron Rider - good point :) I actually thought I was replying to Larry Powers' message. I was mostly just interested in what RBW randonneuring people like to run as pedals/shoes and tires, but probably better asked either on a different thread or on the Randon List. We're going through a cold snap here in the north, with temperatures hovering around -30 degrees celcius, so any brevets are a long way off. Ian A. On Monday, February 10, 2014 8:00:13 AM UTC-7, Iron Rider wrote: Ian A. You post a lot of questions here but I'm not sure to whom they are directed? Me? The Olsen bros? The list? Perhaps a new thread might be a better option to get the most helpful responses? On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:35:32 AM UTC-5, IanA wrote: Would be interested to know what width tires/wheel size and pedals you prefer? I have a canti LongLow made brevet ready and on 32mm actual Kojaks. I could go to an actual 37mm with fenders, I think, with some creativity. I have flat pedals on the bike and SPDs/mountain bike shoes in my box of stuff. I like the idea of trail shoes and flat pedals, but for longer rides I'm wondering how those would work out. I've done one 400km and several 200km rides, but none on the Rivendell yet and all my longer rides were clipped in. It's been a long while, so getting back to shape is going to be tough. Ian A/Canada. On Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:36:54 PM UTC-7, Larry Powers wrote: The simple answer is that if it was 96 hours anyone could do it. I think there is a a minimum speed you are expected to ride plus a minimum number hours of sleep you are allotted and this adds up to 90 hours. I have completed two 1200k Randonnees on my Rambouillet, BMB 2006 and PBP 2007. It takes a huge commitment to train and qualify for a 1200k and life has caught up with me for the last few years. This year I am in the hunt to do a 1000k and shoot for PBP next year and I will still be riding my Rambouillet. Larry Powers Get a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain -- Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 05:26:36 -0800 From: lamon...@mac.com To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com Subject: [RBW] Re: Multiple grand randonnees on a Rivendell. Out of curiosity, why 90 hours rather than an even 4 days? With abandon, Patrick On Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:08:36 AM UTC-7, Iron Rider wrote: A 1200k brevet is a 750 mile ride that has to be completed in less than 90 hours. Bill and Mark Olsen regularly ride these epic events. Mark rides an A. Homer Hilsen. They recently completed an interview describing their approach. You can read it here: http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/02/riding-grand-randonees-olsen-brothers.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
