[RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[Tim O. (Portland, OR)]

I love the look of both bikes! That blue!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clearing out my stuff - Nitto, IRD, Dia Compe, PDW, VP, SRAM, Sunrace, Microshift, Wolftooth

[Reid Echols]

Hi Phil, 

I'd take the Nitto plugs if you still have them. 

Thanks, 
Reid in Austin 

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 11:06:03 AM UTC-7, phil k wrote:
>
> Culled my bikes down, and got a wedding coming up in a couple of months, 
> so the ask from my fiance was to "please clear out some of this bike stuff 
> laying around the apartment before I move in". So here we are. 
>
> *Shifters & Brake Stuff*
>
> Dia-Compe 11s Road & 10s Dynasys downtube friction shifters 
> ,
>  
> brand new (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $75 shipped
>
> Dura Ace SL 7900 downtube shifters 
> , 
> right shifter installed and uninstalled, left shifter new - $40 shipped
>
> IRD Ratchet Brake Lever (pair) 
> , brand new (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $90 shipped
>
> Tektro Brake brake levers, flat bar, uses road brake cable 
>  - 
> $15 shipped
>
> Kool stop salmon dura type brake pads 
> , 1 
> bike's worth - $10 shipped
>
> Kool Stop Salmon Dura Type 2 brake pads 
> , 1 
> bike's worth - $12 shipped
>
>
> *Handlebar & Stem Stuff*
>
> Gilles Berthoud bar end, road bars, cork, pair 
>  - 
> $10 shipped
>
> Nitto Bar end plug, road bar, silver 
>  (actual 
> pic ) - 
> $10 shipped
>
> Gran Compe Ene Quill Stem 
> , 26.0 clamp 
> diameter, 80mm reach, 115mm height above insert (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $50 shipped
>
> Nitto NTC DX quill stem, 26.0 clamp, 70mm reach 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Nitto Pearl quill stem 25.4 clamp, 85mm reach 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Nitto Pearl quill stem 26.0, 70mm reach 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Nitto Tallux 25.4, 90mm reach 
>  - 
> $50 shipped
>
> PDW Whiskey grips, brown, pair 
> , 
> new - $50 shipped
>
>
> *Drivetrain Stuff*
>
> Microshift R10 short cage 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
> Microshift R10 long cage 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
> Wolftooth Road link 
>  - 
> $10 shipped
>
> Sunrace 11-40 10 speed wide cassette 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
> SRAM 11-36 10 speed cassette 
>  - 
> $25 shipped
>
>
> *Pedal & Misc*
>
> VP Vice Pedal, black, pair 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Topeak Road pump, 50cm long 
>  - 
> $15 shipped
>
> Ruthworks Leather Straps, 17cm 
> , 28cm 
> , 38cm 
> , 
> sold together - $15 shipped
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[tc]

Patrick, very nice of you to post this - thanks!

What fixed gearing did you end up with on Shadowfax?

Tom

>

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[RBW] Re: Model(s) going away

[Adam in Indiana]

On Friday, June 15, 2018 at 3:19:13 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
> Update from Dave: No Sams planned for '18/'19 beyond the upcoming small 
> Sparkly Orange 51cm run. Could be back later, but hoo boy I better think 
> about getting that 51 before I become a much older person. Orange! With 
> sparkles!


Yikes, glad I got my canti-Sam in the pre-order, then.  I'd been thinking of 
one for years, almost pulled the trigger when my size, the 58, dropped the 
second top tube (I like the look, just didn't need that stout of a frame), and 
the return if the canti with a presale price finally made my mind up.

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[RBW] Bikepacking Kit

[WETH]

Thanks for sharing your kit.  Quite helpful.
Erl 

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Re: [RBW] Bikepacking Kit

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Patrick I appreciate the bikepacking kit you listed. Thanks :-)

On Sun, Jun 17, 2018 at 9:08 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> I’ve received a number of off line questions about bikepacking kit. Here
> is my current setup — which may change in specifics over time, but has
> settled down to a core element of what is essential and hearty and works
> when I need it. It is not ultralite but it is a solid 3-season set up for
> the Colorado Rockies, geared for temps down to 10˚F, snow at any time, etc.
>
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/bikepacking-kit
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
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[RBW] Bikepacking Kit

[Deacon Patrick]

I’ve received a number of off line questions about bikepacking kit. Here is my 
current setup — which may change in specifics over time, but has settled down 
to a core element of what is essential and hearty and works when I need it. It 
is not ultralite but it is a solid 3-season set up for the Colorado Rockies, 
geared for temps down to 10˚F, snow at any time, etc.

https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/bikepacking-kit

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: stopping and rim brakes

[Michael Hechmer]

Ron, perhaps I misunderstood your post.  The picture shows two brakes, 
neither Pauls, and a note saying these are the brakes Paul recommends.  But 
perhaps your note referred to my previous quote rather than your pictures. 
 Sorry if I came across as overly argumentative.

Michael

 

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 7:48:44 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> those are the pads Paul brakes were designed for, and the only pads that 
> Paul sells.  
> Achieving proper alignment and toe is everything in brakes, and good 
> cartridge pads with some degree of spherical freedom is the answer.  
>
>    
>
> The Yokozuna  cartridges took the Weinmann SPs from marginally scary to 
> more than adequate.  The Dura cartridges gave the CPs all the power of Paul 
> cantis (there's nothing beyond lockup), but of course not the modulation of 
> Paul cantis.  
>
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> Ok I agree that all of the popular style of brake design can be made into 
>> very good brakes but.
>>
>> I have never owned or even ridden a bike with "disk" brakes, but looking 
>> at them they seem to offer two advantages.  First they can accommodate much 
>> larger pads; second, their position, further from the road could make them 
>> less likely to get grimy, especially with road tar & oil.  (See my last 
>> paragraph on this.)
>>
>> While all the currently popular designs are functional, good brakes & 
>> good braking relies just as much on three other variables - execution, 
>> setup, and maintenance.
>>
>> Many years ago I put a pair of Dia Compe hi profile cantis on a Trek 620. 
>>  They looked like a good brake with a very traditional design but nothing 
>> ever improved their very weak power.  I concluded that it wasn't the design 
>> but the execution.  About 20 years ago I had a set of Shimano low profile 
>> cantis mated to Ultegra brifters.  They were very difficult to set up and 
>> barely stopped the bike.  The brifters simply pulled too much cable for 
>> them.  Switching to Tectro levers helped quite a bit, but ultimately bought 
>> a set of Paul's neo Retros and felt much safer on my daily commute.  I now 
>> owe Paul my life, which makes me a pretty loyal user!
>>
>> Finally maintenance.  Recently, in a single day the braking on our tandem 
>> went from deteriorating to almost non existent. I cleaned the rims, which 
>> had road tar on them.  Things did not get better.  Inspection showed that 
>> the salmon pads also had black smear across the surface.  I had to file off 
>> a micrometer of pad to get back to rubber.
>>
>> Finally, there may not be a need for "better" pads but there is a need 
>> for different pads.  I find that the slimline pads are much easier to set 
>> up on bikes with wide rims, at least with my Paul's brakes.  In fact they 
>> are the only pads that will not brush the tire on their way to the rims.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 6:44:57 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>> On Tuesday we'll have some really good brake pads. I found out about 
>>> them from a customer/friend, who is not prone to raving and wasn't trying 
>>> to "turn me on" to his favorite widget, so I listened a bit harder and we 
>>> got samples. There's no need for better brake pads than Shimano or 
>>> Yokozuma...but these seem to be it, anyway, and they have other advantages, 
>>> at least in the V-brake version. I'm not sure if they're lockerupppers 
>>> (that has an odd political feel to it these days, not intended), but they 
>>> are remarkable, and if I didn't know what pads I had, I'd think wow, these 
>>> are amazing, I want more..
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 2:30 PM, Tim Gavin >> > wrote:
>>>
 Joe-  

 With QR wheels, it can be tricky to get the disc rotor in *exactly* the 
 same place as the last time.  The answer is to use the exact same method 
 each time you replace a wheel.

 Through-axles make this more fool-proof.

 But there will be neither disc brakes nor through-axles on the upcoming 
 Riv MTB, so it's irrelevant here.  Grant will build what he wants, and 
 with 
 the more "reasonable" MIT pricing, he'll sell all the bikes he orders.  


 Speaking of irrelevant elephants, I think "Olyphant" is a good name for 
 this upcoming Rivbike, as it harkens back to the mammoth badge on the 
 Hunq.  

 But not Timothy Olyphant, that name is taken.





 P.S.
 Personally, I prefer disc brakes on most bikes.  But then, I'm #250 and 
 have regularly been disappointed with the stopping power of rim brakes.  
 Even with Paul Racers, I could never lock up the front wheel on my Riv 
 Road 
 (not that I would want to, but it's a measure of braking power).  It was 
 frustrating to fully squeeze the brake lever and still feel the bike 
 creeping forward.  And 

[RBW] Pedals and Cycling Shoes for Feet Shaped Feet

[Deacon Patrick]

The idea ought to be simple. Shoes that allow the foot to function freely and 
properly, in foot shape. Trouble is, shoes aren’t foot shaped. They are modern 
foot binding devices that deform feet by constricting them in too narrow and 
unfoot shape a container. Especially if you go barefoot 95% of your off bike 
time. Cycling shoes are even narrower...

https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/pedals-and-shoes-for-feet-shaped-feet-and-fixed-gear-riding

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

[iamkeith]

My first disc brake bike, which was state of the art when I got it, uses a 22mm 
Hayes caliper mounting standard.  Try and find something that fits.  My modern, 
once-modern replacement suspension fork has ISS caliper mounting tabs.  All new 
forks use post mounts, so when it wears out, I'll be forced to get new brakes 
too?  That's a rhetorical question, of course, because the new fork would have 
a tapered steerer that wouldn't fit my 1 1/8" headtube.  And, even if it did, 
it would likely be intended for a thru-axle 110 boost hub standard, so I'd need 
to rebuild my wheel anyway.  Which is probably a good thing, because then i 
could ditch the old-school 6 bolt rotor mounting standard for the new and 
improved centerlock standard.  This year, that is.

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[RBW] Nitto rear rack shortage?

[Clayton.sf]

There is a large in ebay too. Search for Rivendell.

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[RBW] Re: Compass Antelope Pass 700 x 55: the fat tire arms race continues

[ctifusion]

I need to check how to post pictures but these fit easily on the new Atlantis. 
Plenty of clearance on each side of the chainstays. And that's the tightest 
spot. 

On Velocity Atlas rims. I'd bet it will also be fine on wider rims.

Got the wrong stem and decided I needed a zero setback seatpost to get the 
reach I want, so the build is on hold. 

Brynnar
Indy

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clearing out my stuff - Nitto, IRD, Dia Compe, PDW, VP, SRAM, Sunrace, Microshift, Wolftooth

[phil k]

Some things have sold. Will periodically update what is left as things get 
sold.
 

> *Shifters & Brake Stuff*
>
> Dia-Compe 11s Road & 10s Dynasys downtube friction shifters 
> ,
>  
> brand new (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $75 shipped
>
> Dura Ace SL 7900 downtube shifters 
> , 
> right shifter installed and uninstalled, left shifter new - $40 shipped
>
> IRD Ratchet Brake Lever (pair) 
> , brand new (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $90 shipped
>
>
> Kool stop salmon dura type brake pads 
> , 1 
> bike's worth - $10 shipped
>
>
>
> *Handlebar & Stem Stuff*
>
> Gilles Berthoud bar end, road bars, cork, pair 
>  - 
> $10 shipped
>
> Nitto Bar end plug, road bar, silver 
>  (actual 
> pic ) - 
> $10 shipped
>
> Gran Compe Ene Quill Stem 
> , 26.0 clamp 
> diameter, 80mm reach, 115mm height above insert (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $50 shipped
>
> Nitto NTC DX quill stem, 26.0 clamp, 70mm reach 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
>
> Nitto Pearl quill stem 26.0, 70mm reach 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Nitto Tallux 25.4, 90mm reach 
>  - 
> $50 shipped
>
> PDW Whiskey grips, brown, pair 
> , 
> new - $50 shipped
>
>
> *Drivetrain Stuff*
>
> Microshift R10 short cage 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
>
>
>
> Sunrace 11-40 10 speed wide cassette 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
> SRAM 11-36 10 speed cassette 
>  - 
> $25 shipped
>
>
> *Pedal & Misc*
>
> VP Vice Pedal, black, pair 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Topeak Road pump, 50cm long 
>  - 
> $15 shipped
>
> Ruthworks Leather Straps, 17cm 
> , 28cm 
> , 38cm 
> , 
> sold together - $15 shipped
>

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[RBW] Re: Betty Foy w/40 miles for sale

[Mattt]

I emailed her and she said she put the cart before the horse.  We was going to 
get more information from Rivendell to post along with pricing. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

[Patrick Moore]

Disc brakes and well designed suspension forks are no more prone to
obsolescence than rim brakes or rigid forks, for which, also, there are
fashions (high-rake? Paul, Compass, centerpulls? -- not in the original
Rivendell catalogues). And please explain why disc brakes will last less
long than calipers or cantis or those horrible modern V brakes?

Patrick Moore, whose BB7s on his bilaminate custom dirt road bike will be
things of beauty forever.

The period Rockshock fork on the 1996 Race Lite I owned worked as well in
2016 as it did in 1996; though I personally have no need for suspension
forks of any era. And BB7s have been around longer than Compass brakes and,
I daresay, some of the Dia Compe calipers.

On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 8:13 AM, iamkeith  wrote:

> Setting aesthetics, appropriateness of riding style and necessary
> design/handling compromises aside, I'm surprised nobody has pointed out the
> most obvious strike against suspension (not to mention disc brakes):
> longevity and built-in obsolescence.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: stopping and rim brakes

[Patrick Moore]

Cork pads: Are those standard material for cf rims? I gather that they
worked well.

In his book Gironimo, describing his entrepid, sometimes forlorn, always
funny repeat ride of the 1914 Giro d'Italia on a period bike, Brit author
Tim Moore describes cutting brake pads from wine corks to use with his
wooden rims. Apparently cork was standard fare for wood rims.

On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 5:21 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> When I built up my bare-frame '98 Moser, got a set of new shopworn Chorus
> brakes for $65, removed from a floor bike to replace with new skeletons.
>
> 
>
> They came with cork pads for carbon rims.  Didn't last long, but the most
> freaking-amazing brakes I've ever had on a bike.
>

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[RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[Joe Bernard]

I had a similar experience with a 51, it was a demo sat on the RBW floor with 
drops. By all accounts it should have been too much of a stretch for little-old 
me and I never would have ordered one that way, but it fit perfect. There seems 
to be something about the angles and stack/reach on joes that require 'going 
big' on sizing. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: stopping and rim brakes

[Michael Hechmer]

Not so.  If you look at the brake 
page: https://paulcomp.com/product-category/components/brakes/  you will 
see that every model he sells has thinline pads; and if you click on the 
neo-retros there is a link to a video on how to install pads, and you will 
see thinline being installed.

I spent an hour this week trying to install a set of cartridge pads on the 
rear of my tandem with neo-retro brakes and 1.75 tires so am quite certain 
that it can't be done.

Michael

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 7:48:44 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> those are the pads Paul brakes were designed for, and the only pads that 
> Paul sells.  
> Achieving proper alignment and toe is everything in brakes, and good 
> cartridge pads with some degree of spherical freedom is the answer.  
>
>    
>
> The Yokozuna  cartridges took the Weinmann SPs from marginally scary to 
> more than adequate.  The Dura cartridges gave the CPs all the power of Paul 
> cantis (there's nothing beyond lockup), but of course not the modulation of 
> Paul cantis.  
>
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> Ok I agree that all of the popular style of brake design can be made into 
>> very good brakes but.
>>
>> I have never owned or even ridden a bike with "disk" brakes, but looking 
>> at them they seem to offer two advantages.  First they can accommodate much 
>> larger pads; second, their position, further from the road could make them 
>> less likely to get grimy, especially with road tar & oil.  (See my last 
>> paragraph on this.)
>>
>> While all the currently popular designs are functional, good brakes & 
>> good braking relies just as much on three other variables - execution, 
>> setup, and maintenance.
>>
>> Many years ago I put a pair of Dia Compe hi profile cantis on a Trek 620. 
>>  They looked like a good brake with a very traditional design but nothing 
>> ever improved their very weak power.  I concluded that it wasn't the design 
>> but the execution.  About 20 years ago I had a set of Shimano low profile 
>> cantis mated to Ultegra brifters.  They were very difficult to set up and 
>> barely stopped the bike.  The brifters simply pulled too much cable for 
>> them.  Switching to Tectro levers helped quite a bit, but ultimately bought 
>> a set of Paul's neo Retros and felt much safer on my daily commute.  I now 
>> owe Paul my life, which makes me a pretty loyal user!
>>
>> Finally maintenance.  Recently, in a single day the braking on our tandem 
>> went from deteriorating to almost non existent. I cleaned the rims, which 
>> had road tar on them.  Things did not get better.  Inspection showed that 
>> the salmon pads also had black smear across the surface.  I had to file off 
>> a micrometer of pad to get back to rubber.
>>
>> Finally, there may not be a need for "better" pads but there is a need 
>> for different pads.  I find that the slimline pads are much easier to set 
>> up on bikes with wide rims, at least with my Paul's brakes.  In fact they 
>> are the only pads that will not brush the tire on their way to the rims.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 6:44:57 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>> On Tuesday we'll have some really good brake pads. I found out about 
>>> them from a customer/friend, who is not prone to raving and wasn't trying 
>>> to "turn me on" to his favorite widget, so I listened a bit harder and we 
>>> got samples. There's no need for better brake pads than Shimano or 
>>> Yokozuma...but these seem to be it, anyway, and they have other advantages, 
>>> at least in the V-brake version. I'm not sure if they're lockerupppers 
>>> (that has an odd political feel to it these days, not intended), but they 
>>> are remarkable, and if I didn't know what pads I had, I'd think wow, these 
>>> are amazing, I want more..
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 2:30 PM, Tim Gavin >> > wrote:
>>>
 Joe-  

 With QR wheels, it can be tricky to get the disc rotor in *exactly* the 
 same place as the last time.  The answer is to use the exact same method 
 each time you replace a wheel.

 Through-axles make this more fool-proof.

 But there will be neither disc brakes nor through-axles on the upcoming 
 Riv MTB, so it's irrelevant here.  Grant will build what he wants, and 
 with 
 the more "reasonable" MIT pricing, he'll sell all the bikes he orders.  


 Speaking of irrelevant elephants, I think "Olyphant" is a good name for 
 this upcoming Rivbike, as it harkens back to the mammoth badge on the 
 Hunq.  

 But not Timothy Olyphant, that name is taken.





 P.S.
 Personally, I prefer disc brakes on most bikes.  But then, I'm #250 and 
 have regularly been disappointed with the stopping power of rim brakes.  
 Even with Paul Racers, I could never lock up the front wheel on my Riv 
 

[RBW] PSA Ram on Ebay

[Jonathan D.]

If someone is in Seattle this could be a nice find. Remember a blue Ram just 
went for over $2000.  Looks like a 62?  Rambouillet By Rivendell Bicycle Works 
Bike Frame RB0952 C-T 27" Local P/U Only 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401552870412

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Patrick Moore]

That should be "584 X 80".

On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 12:53 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it
> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or,
> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a
> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at
> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just
> isn't fat enough.
>
> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare
> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>



-- 
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**
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Patrick Moore]

My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it
accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or,
that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a
difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at
least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just
isn't fat enough.

Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare
584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?

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[RBW] FS: Clearing out my stuff - Nitto, IRD, Dia Compe, PDW, VP, SRAM, Sunrace, Microshift, Wolftooth

[phil k]

Culled my bikes down, and got a wedding coming up in a couple of months, so 
the ask from my fiance was to "please clear out some of this bike stuff 
laying around the apartment before I move in". So here we are. 

*Shifters & Brake Stuff*

Dia-Compe 11s Road & 10s Dynasys downtube friction shifters 
,
 
brand new (actual pic 
) - $75 
shipped

Dura Ace SL 7900 downtube shifters 
, right 
shifter installed and uninstalled, left shifter new - $40 shipped

IRD Ratchet Brake Lever (pair) 
, brand new (actual pic 
) - $90 
shipped

Tektro Brake brake levers, flat bar, uses road brake cable 
 - $15 
shipped

Kool stop salmon dura type brake pads 
, 1 
bike's worth - $10 shipped

Kool Stop Salmon Dura Type 2 brake pads 
, 1 
bike's worth - $12 shipped


*Handlebar & Stem Stuff*

Gilles Berthoud bar end, road bars, cork, pair 
 - $10 
shipped

Nitto Bar end plug, road bar, silver 
 (actual pic 
) - $10 
shipped

Gran Compe Ene Quill Stem 
, 26.0 clamp 
diameter, 80mm reach, 115mm height above insert (actual pic 
) - $50 
shipped

Nitto NTC DX quill stem, 26.0 clamp, 70mm reach 
 - $40 
shipped

Nitto Pearl quill stem 25.4 clamp, 85mm reach 
 - $40 
shipped

Nitto Pearl quill stem 26.0, 70mm reach 
 - $40 
shipped

Nitto Tallux 25.4, 90mm reach 
 - $50 
shipped

PDW Whiskey grips, brown, pair 
, new - 
$50 shipped


*Drivetrain Stuff*

Microshift R10 short cage 
 - $20 
shipped

Microshift R10 long cage 
 - $20 
shipped

Wolftooth Road link 
 - $10 
shipped

Sunrace 11-40 10 speed wide cassette 
 - $20 
shipped

SRAM 11-36 10 speed cassette 
 - $25 
shipped


*Pedal & Misc*

VP Vice Pedal, black, pair 
 - $40 
shipped

Topeak Road pump, 50cm long 
 - $15 
shipped

Ruthworks Leather Straps, 17cm 
, 28cm 
, 38cm 
, sold 
together - $15 shipped



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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[John Woo]

Both look good. I could see you keeping both and having two different enough 
setups. 

> On Jun 16, 2018, at 1:11 PM, hugh flynn  wrote:
> 
> Re photo of the 55.
> 
> See below. This was taken before I put the 120 stem on it though. 
> 
> 
> 
> And another of the 58 for comparison 
> 
> 
> 
> The contact points are all the same distance from each other (more or less)  
> just less searpost and quill showing on the 58. 
> 
> The top tube length difference is only 1.5 cm or so. Both fit, but I like the 
> 58 better. 
> 
> Hugh 
>> On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 12:48 PM John W  wrote:
>> Looks god. Do you have a photo of the 55 to compare it to?
>> 
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> -- 
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> Newburyport, MA
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[RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[J Imler]

I was in a similar situation when I bought my 58 Joe. My PBH was in the 87/88 
realm so my saddle height was about like yours, a 76ish mark.

Riv staff placed me initially on a 55, but with my long dangly arms I felt 
cramped. The 58 was definitely a better feel size wise; one caveat to that is 
when I run fat 29er tires the top tube is right up there, especially in flip 
flops. 

I can imagine the 55 would be a superior ride off road for our size. 

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[RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan Merrill]

Well Grant, I'm certainly looking forward to seeing what y'all come up 
with. I already ride several different mountain bikes, two full suspension 
(one XC and one "enduro) and one steel framed, rigid 29'er set up single 
speed. I like them all but could honestly do without the enduro bike. It's 
really too much bike for the majority of trails I ride, but it is fun and 
comfy. I've always wanted a Riv mtb and this could be the one for me. 

As long as I could get wheels that will work with whatever braking system 
comes on it and the bike has enough clearance for, say, a 2.3 or 2.4 and 
some mud pack, I'm good. A rigid mtb is a blast to ride, even in gnarlier 
terrain. 

On Wednesday, June 13, 2018 at 11:21:15 AM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> Even though many of the guesses are 75 percent accurate, this bike is 
> bound to disappoint throngs, but not by intent. There is already tons of 
> variety in mtn bikes. More than a dozen categories--jumpers, pumpers, xc, 
> dh, hardtails, fat, plus, e, enduro... No matter what we do, there's going 
> to be some overlap, and it's going to be both too much and not enough, 
> depending. There will be some THINGS that it doesn't excel at, but it's 
> more the rider than the bike, anyway--right?
> The record descent of Repack Road (fire trail in Marin County on which 95 
> percent of the original mtn bike development took place in the late '70s) 
> is 4:22 for all 2 miles and 1,300 feet of it. In late '76 Gary Fisher did 
> that on a modified paperboy bike with a coaster brake. About 8 years 
> later,  (sorry for the history!) daredevil downhiller Jimmy Deaton, rode it 
> on a then-SOA bike in 4:34. 
> Those are the facts that feed the notion that the measure of a bike and a 
> rider is speed, which I think is way off.  When you design for extreme 
> speeds or terrain or surfaces (sand, snow, boulders...) you get an extreme 
> bike that psychologizes normal riders into thinking they're worse for being 
> normal and let's them buy their way into the glorified extreme world and 
> look ready for action on the way back from Trader Joe's. 
>
> The plan with the new bike—which may not even happen—is that it's a 
> sufficient platform and maybe no more, for lots of non-extreme trail 
> riding, and it's sufficiently different than our other bikes to be barely 
> justifiable. 
>
> On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 1:14:09 PM UTC-7, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>>
>> I also noticed that hint, but wasn't quite certain how to interpret it.  
>> On one hand it made me wonder whether a fatter tired single speeder is in 
>> the pipeline (Hunqabeam!) but then I read it again and determined my own 
>> selfish desires were too heavily influencing that initial interpretation.  
>> Curiouser and curiouser!
>>
>> Brian Cole
>> Lawrenceville, NJ
>>
>> On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 3:24:19 PM UTC-4, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>
>>> This might be a stretch, but hey, what's the fun in following a guru if 
>>> you can't spend hours parsing his words and interpreting them?  I think 
>>> there might be a hint towards an upcoming trail-oriented Riv (or update to 
>>> an existing Riv) hidden in this passage from Grant's post yesterday 
>>> 
>>> : 
>>>
>>> In mountain bike racing and just riding, it's gone the other way. The 
 early guys were riding unsuitably low-tech bikes, then bikes reached a 
 basic good level of appropriate technology in the late '80s, and now 
 they've borrowed as much as possible—for now—from cars and motorcycles. 
 There are reactions to it the other way, with one-speed mountain bikes, 
 but 
 those are fading fast because...one gear is too limiting for varied 
 terrain. *There's no restraint at that end, and we're going to show 
 'em all what-for sometime late this year, if we can pull it off.*
>>>
>>>
>>> I wonder what it could be...the before-hinted plus-tire Hunqapillar?  
>>> Bringing back the Bombadil (probably can't be done under the LOTR gag 
>>> order)?  Some other new trail-oriented rig?
>>>
>>> Honestly, I'm pretty satisfied with my Jones-barred Clem as my MTB 
>>> (well...a threadless fork would be nice), so I'm not anxiously awaiting 
>>> anything, but it would be interesting to see what they come up with.  
>>>
>>> Let the speculation begin! 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[John W]

Looks god. Do you have a photo of the 55 to compare it to?

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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[hugh flynn]

Yeah, a shorter stem is needed. It’s probably 1 cm too long for me at the
moment (its a 110 Nitto), but that’s manageable under 50 miles or so. The
saddle might be at 76cm (measured from the B.B.) but I’d notice it if it
were much higher than that. Still some futzing to be done to be sure, but
at least I know I’m in the right range on the 58 now so that’s a good
thing.

Hugh


On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 11:45 AM iamkeith  wrote:

> That's a 75.5cm saddle height?  Sure looks good, if not slightly high, to
> me.  Shorter stem might look better and would also allow it to be higher
> but, if this one fits, it's great.  Nice call.
>
> I've struggled with this exact same conundrum since the shift to expanded
> sizing.  I wish I'd have gotten one of the first-run 58 butterscotch.
>
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Newburyport, MA

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[RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

[Belopsky]

I like the discussion here and a bit off topic but not terribly so
http://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-steel-plus-lwb-with-unicrown-fork/

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[RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

[tc]

Thanks everyone.  It looks like only a very few have owned and ridden a 
sus-corrected bike in both rigid and sus modes...so the experience pool 
here is kinda small, as expected.

For those that may or may not have that experience, it looks like poor 
aesthetics, not "Riv" enough, handling weirdness of a specific bike model 
(don't know make), riding only in places and at speeds where your body is 
enough of a shock, and lack of replacement part longevity are reason enough 
not to buy a sus-corrected bike.

Carry on!  Next topic.  Can't wait to see the new MTB.  One thing we no 
doubt all agree on is that a new bike, a new *Riv *bike, is always exciting.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Model(s) going away

[James Warren]

> On Jun 16, 2018, at 8:14 AM, Christopher Murray wrote:
> 
> I thought the very first Salukis came with either with cantilever posts or 
> without. This was before the big Tektro brakes. I could definitely be wrong.


No, you’re right, canti posts or without. 
But because it was prior to the big Telktro R559, the standard build was to use 
centerpull brakes on the non-canti version (and these were center-bolt style.) 
This made me wonder if Riv ever did a batch with dedicated centerpull posts. 
I’ve learned that they did not. But they did have one really cool MUSA AHH 
frame made a couple years ago with centerpull posts! That one was sweet.

-Jim W.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 16, 2018, at 8:14 AM, Christopher Murray  
> wrote:
> 
> I thought the very first Salukis came with either with cantilever posts or 
> without. This was before the big Tektro brakes. I could definitely be wrong.
> 
> Chris 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Betty Foy w/40 miles for sale

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Perhaps it sold?

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[RBW] Re: Notes on a new Sam Hillborne, Albastache handlebars, and on being "fast enough"

[Chris Birkenmaier]

My story unfolded much like yours. Drop bars are something I don’t intend to 
return to. I have the Albastache bars on my Roadini and love them!  I also put 
them on my 1986 Pinarello Montello and transformed that bike   Seems to be a 
perfect marriage of comfort and good riding position 

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[RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[iamkeith]

That's a 75.5cm saddle height?  Sure looks good, if not slightly high, to me.  
Shorter stem might look better and would also allow it to be higher but, if 
this one fits, it's great.  Nice call.

I've struggled with this exact same conundrum since the shift to expanded 
sizing.  I wish I'd have gotten one of the first-run 58 butterscotch.

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Re: [RBW] Model(s) going away

[Christopher Murray]

I thought the very first Salukis came with either with cantilever posts or 
without. This was before the big Tektro brakes. I could definitely be wrong.

Chris 

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[RBW] Re: Notes on a new Sam Hillborne, Albastache handlebars, and on being "fast enough"

[Jonathan K.]

Thanks for the kind words everyone. I always enjoy reading about people's 
different setups and the how/why they went with the bike/bars/whatever that 
they did, so that's why I posted mine.

Austin: I saw the pictures of your blue  Sam in a thread a while back, and 
it was definitely one of the bikes I used for inspiration when I was trying 
to get an idea of how my bike would look with the new bars. There aren't a 
lot of people using them (at least of the people who post lots of pictures 
of their bikes.) I also spent an unhealthy amount of time staring at 
Surlyprof's orange Albastached Sam on Flickr, and of course Deacon 
Patrick's two Albastached rivs, as well as countless others. Albastache 
bars seem to be fairly polarizing. Based on what I've read, people seem to 
love them or hate them. Not a lot of in between.

Ron MC: Your bikes are awesome, and certainly a testament to the 
usefullness of non-drops for nice bikes as well.

John: I don't have toe overlap on the Sam. On the Appaloosa, I do 
occasionally, but not enough to be bothered about. I guess it's because of 
the large tires (Schwalbe Big Ben 700x50c) and fenders. As far as deciding, 
Sam is more of the recreational ride that I use when I have free time and 
want to just take off. Joe is my everyday commuter, and load hauler. They 
are both such amazing bikes.

Tim: I look forward to seeing pictures of the new build. Your comment here, 
and on my instagram picture about your ego allowing you to give up on drops 
really speaks to me. I love going out for long solo rides, but I have been 
fighting discomfort on drops on different road bikes for years. Right now, 
I only have one bike with drops, and I honestly don't see myself riding it 
much now that I have the Sam. I should probably sell it, but it's like 
there is some psychological hold on me saying "you need a drop bar bike." 
We've been conditioned over the years to believe that "real" or "good" 
bikes have drop bars. I'm becoming convinced that while tons of people are 
happy and comfortable with drop bars, I am not one of those people. There 
was a great quote from Grant in the Sam Hillborne catalog from a few years 
ago: "We're not against drops, just the idea that good bikes warrant them 
on principle." Like always, Grant was/is right.

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[RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

[iamkeith]

Setting aesthetics, appropriateness of riding style and necessary 
design/handling compromises aside, I'm surprised nobody has pointed out the 
most obvious strike against suspension (not to mention disc brakes):  longevity 
and built-in obsolescence.

After every past or current, state of the art, fashionable headtube standard, 
hub standard, brake mounting standard, or available fork travel length has 
disapeared,  Rivendell bikes are still going to be useful, ridable, beautiful 
and sought after. And their forks wont "wear out."

1" threaded headsets, 68mm threaded english bottom brackets, 100/135 qr hubs & 
rim brakes have and will outlast everything else.  I don't know about the rest 
of you, but that's the very reason I buy Rivendells in the first place.  
They're not only lifetime bikes for me, but heirlooms that I'll be able to pass 
to my kids.

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[RBW] Re: My new Sam is complete!

[d2mini]

Thanks guys. :)

Tully Lanter, the Albastache require less reach to the front curved brake 
area and the bar ends are a couple inches longer. Overall it's a more 
relaxed version of the moustache bar. :)



>

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Re: [RBW] Re: stopping and rim brakes

[Ron Mc]

those are the pads Paul brakes were designed for, and the only pads that 
Paul sells.  
Achieving proper alignment and toe is everything in brakes, and good 
cartridge pads with some degree of spherical freedom is the answer.  

   

The Yokozuna  cartridges took the Weinmann SPs from marginally scary to 
more than adequate.  The Dura cartridges gave the CPs all the power of Paul 
cantis (there's nothing beyond lockup), but of course not the modulation of 
Paul cantis.  


On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Ok I agree that all of the popular style of brake design can be made into 
> very good brakes but.
>
> I have never owned or even ridden a bike with "disk" brakes, but looking 
> at them they seem to offer two advantages.  First they can accommodate much 
> larger pads; second, their position, further from the road could make them 
> less likely to get grimy, especially with road tar & oil.  (See my last 
> paragraph on this.)
>
> While all the currently popular designs are functional, good brakes & good 
> braking relies just as much on three other variables - execution, setup, 
> and maintenance.
>
> Many years ago I put a pair of Dia Compe hi profile cantis on a Trek 620. 
>  They looked like a good brake with a very traditional design but nothing 
> ever improved their very weak power.  I concluded that it wasn't the design 
> but the execution.  About 20 years ago I had a set of Shimano low profile 
> cantis mated to Ultegra brifters.  They were very difficult to set up and 
> barely stopped the bike.  The brifters simply pulled too much cable for 
> them.  Switching to Tectro levers helped quite a bit, but ultimately bought 
> a set of Paul's neo Retros and felt much safer on my daily commute.  I now 
> owe Paul my life, which makes me a pretty loyal user!
>
> Finally maintenance.  Recently, in a single day the braking on our tandem 
> went from deteriorating to almost non existent. I cleaned the rims, which 
> had road tar on them.  Things did not get better.  Inspection showed that 
> the salmon pads also had black smear across the surface.  I had to file off 
> a micrometer of pad to get back to rubber.
>
> Finally, there may not be a need for "better" pads but there is a need for 
> different pads.  I find that the slimline pads are much easier to set up on 
> bikes with wide rims, at least with my Paul's brakes.  In fact they are the 
> only pads that will not brush the tire on their way to the rims.
>
> Michael
>
> On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 6:44:57 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>
>> On Tuesday we'll have some really good brake pads. I found out about them 
>> from a customer/friend, who is not prone to raving and wasn't trying to 
>> "turn me on" to his favorite widget, so I listened a bit harder and we got 
>> samples. There's no need for better brake pads than Shimano or 
>> Yokozuma...but these seem to be it, anyway, and they have other advantages, 
>> at least in the V-brake version. I'm not sure if they're lockerupppers 
>> (that has an odd political feel to it these days, not intended), but they 
>> are remarkable, and if I didn't know what pads I had, I'd think wow, these 
>> are amazing, I want more..
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 2:30 PM, Tim Gavin  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Joe-  
>>>
>>> With QR wheels, it can be tricky to get the disc rotor in *exactly* the 
>>> same place as the last time.  The answer is to use the exact same method 
>>> each time you replace a wheel.
>>>
>>> Through-axles make this more fool-proof.
>>>
>>> But there will be neither disc brakes nor through-axles on the upcoming 
>>> Riv MTB, so it's irrelevant here.  Grant will build what he wants, and with 
>>> the more "reasonable" MIT pricing, he'll sell all the bikes he orders.  
>>>
>>>
>>> Speaking of irrelevant elephants, I think "Olyphant" is a good name for 
>>> this upcoming Rivbike, as it harkens back to the mammoth badge on the 
>>> Hunq.  
>>>
>>> But not Timothy Olyphant, that name is taken.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> P.S.
>>> Personally, I prefer disc brakes on most bikes.  But then, I'm #250 and 
>>> have regularly been disappointed with the stopping power of rim brakes.  
>>> Even with Paul Racers, I could never lock up the front wheel on my Riv Road 
>>> (not that I would want to, but it's a measure of braking power).  It was 
>>> frustrating to fully squeeze the brake lever and still feel the bike 
>>> creeping forward.  And this was with very well tuned brakes with a low 
>>> straddle cable.
>>>
>>> I just replaced the fork on my Riv Road with the spare forks Crust was 
>>> selling (from the Romanceur, I believe).  Now I have low trail, rack 
>>> eyelets, and a disc brake on my touring bike.
>>>
>>> My next MTB will have a steel frame, but will be otherwise pretty 
>>> modern.  I'm starting to build up an All-City Electric Queen 
>>> !

Re: [RBW] Re: stopping and rim brakes

[Michael Hechmer]

Ok I agree that all of the popular style of brake design can be made into 
very good brakes but.

I have never owned or even ridden a bike with "disk" brakes, but looking at 
them they seem to offer two advantages.  First they can accommodate much 
larger pads; second, their position, further from the road could make them 
less likely to get grimy, especially with road tar & oil.  (See my last 
paragraph on this.)

While all the currently popular designs are functional, good brakes & good 
braking relies just as much on three other variables - execution, setup, 
and maintenance.

Many years ago I put a pair of Dia Compe hi profile cantis on a Trek 620. 
 They looked like a good brake with a very traditional design but nothing 
ever improved their very weak power.  I concluded that it wasn't the design 
but the execution.  About 20 years ago I had a set of Shimano low profile 
cantis mated to Ultegra brifters.  They were very difficult to set up and 
barely stopped the bike.  The brifters simply pulled too much cable for 
them.  Switching to Tectro levers helped quite a bit, but ultimately bought 
a set of Paul's neo Retros and felt much safer on my daily commute.  I now 
owe Paul my life, which makes me a pretty loyal user!

Finally maintenance.  Recently, in a single day the braking on our tandem 
went from deteriorating to almost non existent. I cleaned the rims, which 
had road tar on them.  Things did not get better.  Inspection showed that 
the salmon pads also had black smear across the surface.  I had to file off 
a micrometer of pad to get back to rubber.

Finally, there may not be a need for "better" pads but there is a need for 
different pads.  I find that the slimline pads are much easier to set up on 
bikes with wide rims, at least with my Paul's brakes.  In fact they are the 
only pads that will not brush the tire on their way to the rims.

Michael

On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 6:44:57 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> On Tuesday we'll have some really good brake pads. I found out about them 
> from a customer/friend, who is not prone to raving and wasn't trying to 
> "turn me on" to his favorite widget, so I listened a bit harder and we got 
> samples. There's no need for better brake pads than Shimano or 
> Yokozuma...but these seem to be it, anyway, and they have other advantages, 
> at least in the V-brake version. I'm not sure if they're lockerupppers 
> (that has an odd political feel to it these days, not intended), but they 
> are remarkable, and if I didn't know what pads I had, I'd think wow, these 
> are amazing, I want more..
>
> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 2:30 PM, Tim Gavin  > wrote:
>
>> Joe-  
>>
>> With QR wheels, it can be tricky to get the disc rotor in *exactly* the 
>> same place as the last time.  The answer is to use the exact same method 
>> each time you replace a wheel.
>>
>> Through-axles make this more fool-proof.
>>
>> But there will be neither disc brakes nor through-axles on the upcoming 
>> Riv MTB, so it's irrelevant here.  Grant will build what he wants, and with 
>> the more "reasonable" MIT pricing, he'll sell all the bikes he orders.  
>>
>>
>> Speaking of irrelevant elephants, I think "Olyphant" is a good name for 
>> this upcoming Rivbike, as it harkens back to the mammoth badge on the 
>> Hunq.  
>>
>> But not Timothy Olyphant, that name is taken.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> P.S.
>> Personally, I prefer disc brakes on most bikes.  But then, I'm #250 and 
>> have regularly been disappointed with the stopping power of rim brakes.  
>> Even with Paul Racers, I could never lock up the front wheel on my Riv Road 
>> (not that I would want to, but it's a measure of braking power).  It was 
>> frustrating to fully squeeze the brake lever and still feel the bike 
>> creeping forward.  And this was with very well tuned brakes with a low 
>> straddle cable.
>>
>> I just replaced the fork on my Riv Road with the spare forks Crust was 
>> selling (from the Romanceur, I believe).  Now I have low trail, rack 
>> eyelets, and a disc brake on my touring bike.
>>
>> My next MTB will have a steel frame, but will be otherwise pretty 
>> modern.  I'm starting to build up an All-City Electric Queen 
>> !
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 4:01 PM, Joe Bernard > > wrote:
>>
>>> Well I said I was going to let it go so I will, but you shouldn't be 
>>> having to reset your brakes every time you pull a wheel on a disc bike. The 
>>> pads don't come out of adjustment unless you're knocking them back. Don't 
>>> knock them back. 
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> .
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>>> For 

Re: [RBW] Re: stopping and rim brakes

[Ron Mc]

When I built up my bare-frame '98 Moser, got a set of new shopworn Chorus 
brakes for $65, removed from a floor bike to replace with new skeletons.  



They came with cork pads for carbon rims.  Didn't last long, but the most 
freaking-amazing brakes I've ever had on a bike.  


On Friday, June 15, 2018 at 11:39:43 PM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Sidepulls are easiest for me too. Thanks for the comparison to the Compass 
> brakes. I love my Tektro R559 brakes. R539 are awesome, too.

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[tc]

Wow Patrick, that one had me scratching my head, "Uh, this a great stunt - 
so funny!  Wait, maybe it's true?  Nah.  Well, look it up.  Dang - it's 
real!  No, it's Adam Craig, Enduro champ.  Is it?"  

That bike reminded me of my first dirt bike, which I made from a donated, 
scratched up Stingray-like frame and parts from the local "Zayre's" dept 
store (basically another Wal-Mart-like chain of yore).  Dad helped me 
complete the build and paint it some shade of Rustoleum matte silver.  I 
loved the knobbies and esp. the motocross style black handlebar.  All my 
friends had similar bikes.  For several summers we'd meet at our local pool 
for swim team practice, eat, then ride the local trails thru the woods.  
Great, great bike memories.

Tom


On Friday, June 15, 2018 at 1:07:41 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That Schwinn wouldn't slow this fellow down:
>
> https://www.bikemag.com/news/news-fat-and-furious/
>
> On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 9:04 AM, tc > 
> wrote:
>
>> Take the fenders off a Schwinn Heavy Duty 
>>  and add some 
>> big 'ol knobbies :)  For a tad more, the Surly Lowside 
>> might work.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 7:36:32 PM UTC-4, Christopher Murray wrote:
>>>
>>> What are the chances the new bike is going to look something like Gary 
>>> Fishers Repack bike? THAT..would..be..amazing!
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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Re: [RBW] Model(s) going away

[Fullylugged]

Long time RBW fans understand: "if you see something you like, buy it now."  
Riv has always cycled older models out and newer ones in. Seems a result of 
changes in the supply chain cost & availability in different places as well as 
the continued development of bike thinking on the part of GP. I have many miles 
on my original Road and Rambouillet models and kick myself for not getting a 
Wilbury when I could. Now, my budget caps my bike collection at "N". :)

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Re: [RBW] Introduction - Doug Shaker

[Douglas Shaker]

Nope, man, never did. I felt guilty about it after you went to all the trouble 
of making it. Still have it though. Beautiful fork with a sweet curve to it.  
The paint match is great. 

Background for the others: My Saluki is set up as a camping bike with front and 
back racks.  I'm a pretty terrible climber and I don't get better with a load. 
I had the gears though and could, on a steep hill, chug away at about two miles 
per hour.  However, with loads in the front panniers, the Saluki became tippy 
as could be at low speed.   Down right scary if you had traffic at your back.  
I got off and walked up a lot of hills.

I had a theory that if the front fork had more trail the bike would be less 
tippy under load at low speed.  Tom made a fork for me, really good paint 
match, with more trail.  The fork, unfortunately, is still in my garage in my 
shamefully large pile'o'bike stuff.
And now, tell the truth, I need to sell the Saluki to clear space in the 
garage.  Sigh. Thus are laid low the plans of humans in general and bike fiends 
in particular.

Doug Shaker

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 7:23 PM, 'Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Doug, good to see you back in action in the group. Did you ever install 
> that new fork on your Saluki?
> 
> Tom Matchak 
> Glen, NH
> 
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[RBW] Re: My new Sam is complete!

[Tully Lanter]

That is one gorgeous bike! More of a reader than poster here, but had to say 
how striking that black + cream + (subtle) copper turned out.

Incidentally, what about the albastache do you prefer to the moustache?

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[RBW] Introduction - Doug Shaker

['Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hey Doug, good to see you back in action in the group. Did you ever install 
that new fork on your Saluki?

Tom Matchak 
Glen, NH

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