Re: [RBW] Tubulars on Rivendells

[William deRosset]

> Re: association of tubulars with "roadies." These days I don't know what a 
> typical tubular rider would be except perhaps a   > 
> professional racer.
--

Hi, All,

Old. Tubular users are all old because nobody younger than I am (50's) learned 
to use them and stuck with them long enough for the hassle factor to get 
manageable. Or they're professional racers with old DS's.



Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Firt Collins CO USA

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Your 650B convered Redwood (was: Re: [RBW] Roadini - 650b on bigger sizes?)

[David B]

Jim,
The Roadini would likely clear 42mm 650b tires are the max - fenders would 
probably fit but would need some mods at the fork crown. Guessing Tektro brakes 
would work. 
The Redwood has more clearance for fenders and tires - 47mm 650b tires fit. I 
have 58m VO fenders - though those only fit with MAFAC Raid brakes. 
And yes, mine is a 65cm - fit is close to identical to the 61cm Roadini - the 
stack on the Roadini is taller.
David

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Joe Bernard]

Someone asked about a rolling chassis deal and he gets first refusal.

F/F/HS/BB/wheels/DOS/tires, let's call it $1600 shipped. 

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[RBW] Re: Racing Klunkers on Repack Road

[EricP]

Wasn't riding banned there for a long time? Seem to remember that 
happening. Hard to remember being half a country away.

Thanks for sharing the video. Watched it when Charlie Kelly first pointed 
it out. Those people really had no fear. Even when younger never could do 
something like that.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 11:14:27 PM UTC-5, Jim M. wrote:
>
> On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 8:33:59 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>> Next Rivmoot we should time-trial Clems down Repack.
>>
>>
>> See if you can beat Gary Fisher's time. Amazing that it's still a record 
> given the "advances" in mountain bikes, though it also speaks to what a 
> fantastically skilled rider he was.
>
> jim m
> walnut creek, ca
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MKS Bear Trap Pedals?

[EricP]

Yes. My wife has a nice scar on the back of one calf from the Suntour 
version. 

And with the DX pedals, I do believe they were available earlier, but only 
with 1/2" spindles for BMX. Those are still my reference for best early 
pedal. (Note, I never tried the Cook Bros.bear traps which had serious 
sharp points and which preceded all the others from what I can remember. 
California mountain bike experts will hopefully correct me on this. Was 
late to the party only getting my first mtn bike in 1984.)

Looks like Rivendell is already sold out. Hopefully they get more. Might 
get a set just for nostalgia sake.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Sunday, May 24, 2020 at 9:24:44 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> The bear traps are basically considered the first "mountain bike" pedals 
> and they were basically IT until Shimano came out with their DX platform 
> pedals. 
> I think most people love Bear traps until you've had them dig into the 
> back of your calf a couple times. Also the rounded part on the end tends to 
> get bashed in fairly easily. 
> It's a nice bit of nostalgia from people who are probably not old enough 
> to remember them from 1981.

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[RBW] Re: FS - Nitto, VO Racks, Paul Centerpulls, Misc.

[velomann]

My new Bantam has internal wiring for the taillight. You just run the wire 
through the BB shell and out a port in the chainstay. Use some care when 
you install/remove the BB cartridge but since there's no moving parts 
contacting the wiring it should be fine in there - plenty of room without 
cutting an unneeded slot. 

Mike M

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 2:01:44 PM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
>
> Bummer. So sorry to hear this!
> How would a different design alternately route the wire to avoid this slot 
> in the BB shell, I wonder?
>
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 1:13:54 PM UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>>
>> John,
>>
>> Re: Rambler, first the bottom bracket cracked. I rode it for over a year 
>> with an incrementally growing crack spreading up the seat tube. This is 
>> apparently an issue with the Zen Fabrication Ramblers - at least 4 of them 
>> including mine. There's a slot in the BB between the seat tube and down 
>> tube to allow for internal routing of the taillight wire, but it means 
>> those tubes are not welded in a full circle as they would be normally, and 
>> obviously a BB shell with a perpendicular slot cut in the top is going to 
>> be compromised. Rob from Ocean Air says fault of welders, but other 
>> manufactures of Ramblers refused to follow that design spec for fear of 
>> exactly what happened to mine and others. Bantam Ramblers are fine, as I 
>> assume are the Page Street Ramblers, but I'd steer clear of the ones made 
>> by Zen knowing what I know now. 
>> And then I crashed it last August and buckled the top tube and down tube, 
>> so the slow death was hastened.
>>
>> Mike M
>>
>> On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 11:47:26 AM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
>>>
>>> Mike, what happened to the Rambler? Such a nice looking bike.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 3:21:12 PM UTC-7, velomann wrote:

 Stuff I really like but realistically am not going to use in 
 foreseeable future:

 All prices are plus shipping in the 48.

 Nitto Campee Front Rack with detachable lowriders - $120. I love this 
 rack and ran it for several years and a few tours on my Rambler. That bike 
 is dead and the replacement has custom racks so I no longer have a bike 
 for 
 this.  * for what it's worth I bought this rack from Manny, so you KNOW 
 it's bombproof.

 Nitto Rear Rack - $110. Not sure of the model. It's similar to the 
 32R/33R but it's neither. Most closely resembles the Simworks On the Road 
 Rack 
 https://www.sim.works/products/on-the-road-carrier?variant=16532776835 but 
 not exactly. Note the last hole on the dropout tang is cut off, there's a 
 chance if you wanted to mount this on a tall 700c bike it wouldn't fit. 
 Otherwise you should be fine. I'm not a rear rack guy so only used this a 
 couple times.

 Velo Orange Front and Rear Constructeur Racks - $50/each - Excellent 
 condition.

 Paul Racer Centerpull Brakes 2 pairs (one bike's worth) $150. These 
 also came off the Rambler. Excellent brakes. I ran them with 650x42 tires 
 with fenders. NOTE: These are NOT the ones with the center mount. You need 
 posts designed for centerpulls or mod your bike or build a custom for 
 these 
 brakes.

 Paul anodized Brake Adjuster nuts - 2 red, 2 blue, $30. I used these to 
 bling the Centerpulls, but they will go on any Paul nutted brakes.

 Check the flickr album here for pics and other goodies for sale (brake 
 levers, derailleurs, Bridgestone saddle, B.O.B coin purse...)

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/8199310@N04/49992315273/in/dateposted-public/

 Mike M

>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57 Grilver Roadini f/f/hs + extras - $700 shipped

[Erik Wright]

Hey all, this is off the market at the moment. I've done some rearranging 
of the build and am giving it another go. If you're interested, feel free 
to contact me off-list and I will reach out if/when the bike is up for sale 
again.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57 Grilver Roadini f/f/hs + extras - $700 shipped

[John W]

Is this still available?
On Saturday, May 30, 2020 at 10:18:24 AM UTC-4 Erik Wright wrote:

> Bump & price drop, $650 shipped

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Re: [RBW] Tubulars on Rivendells

[Patrick Moore]

I just saw this. Some very experienced recreational -- ie, non-pro, but the
sort who do PBP and other brevets -- say that tubulars are simply more
cushioning at a given width than equivalent wired-ons. Some also say that
they are, all equal, faster. Tubular are certainly -- all equal -- lighter.
They're still very popular with mere enthusiasts.

I've never ridden tubulars, but recent threads on their merits have
convinced me -- hardly a pro! -- to try them when (God willing) I get my
very nice steel road frame built up (don't worry, it's Rivendellian; all
lugged light 531, 45 cm stays, and "fistful of seatpost" sizing (60 X 56
c-c).

If fact, I think Bill Lindsay of this list equipped a new Roadeo with
tubulars.

Certainly the performance difference with "clinchers" has greatly lessened
with the new, thinwall-casing tires from Schwalbe and R Herse and others.

On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 6:17:23 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
>
> Re: association of tubulars with "roadies." These days I don't know what
a typical tubular rider would be except perhaps a   >
professional racer.
-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Causes for bike noises

[Brady Smith]

The story of my life lately:

1. Click on some pedal strokes but not all—insufficiently greased pedal.

2. Click on hard efforts only—dirty chain. Clean and lube and it goes away. 

3. Creaking sound started when pedaling uphill on bailout gear with 40 pounds 
of child and gear but progresses to unloaded bike all the time. Replaced 
hardware store bolt with proper seat binder bolt, bike is blissfully quiet. 

4. On another bike, creaking sound on hard efforts, then moderate efforts, then 
all the time. Cleaning doesn’t help. Took off pedals and greased, tightened 
crank bolts, seatpost, etc, it continues. Finally I notice that it stops out of 
saddle, and that nose bolt on B17 is broken. Awaiting replacement (thanks to 
this group!), and then hopefully silence will return.

5. In the winter, the Cambium saddle on my commuter creaks and creaks and 
creaks, especially below freezing. I’ve never figured out a solution to this, 
so I just deal with it. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Joe Bernard]

Indeed, Laing, the fillet BB matches my custom and the headtube lugs are 
actually *fancier*. The FJS is a stunning frame. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus Excitment on IG

[lambbo]

I'm guessing it has a heavy dose of Chromium (the green I mean), I would mix 
chromium with titanium buff. Beautiful color!

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[RBW] Re: Tubulars on Rivendells

[John G.]

Former Pacer and current Roadeo owner here. Yes, you will see a difference! 
Not just in speed, but in handling and comfort, too. Pacers are good bikes; 
Roadeos are outstanding.

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 4:53:25 PM UTC-4, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> What a beauty!  I am riding a Surly pacer as my go fast bike.  I was 
> wondering if I would see much difference in the Pacer and a Rodeo.  I 
> believe you have had both.  Is the Rodeo as dreamy as it looks?
>
> Best,
> Scott
>
> On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 5:08:11 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> A few things came together and prompted me to build up a tubular wheelset 
>> for my Roadeo.  The rims are vintage MAVIC GL330s, and the tires are super 
>> sweet Veloflex Vlaanderen which measure a true 27mm.  Now my Roadeo tips 
>> the scales at a legit <20 lbs.  I am keeping my clincher wheelset as well, 
>> but DANG, this bike is fast with supple tubulars.  
>>
>> Photo proves I rode The Three Bears on tubulars for the first time in 20 
>> years.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/49815410327
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Nitto, VO Racks, Paul Centerpulls, Misc.

[John Bokman]

Bummer. So sorry to hear this!
How would a different design alternately route the wire to avoid this slot 
in the BB shell, I wonder?


On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 1:13:54 PM UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Re: Rambler, first the bottom bracket cracked. I rode it for over a year 
> with an incrementally growing crack spreading up the seat tube. This is 
> apparently an issue with the Zen Fabrication Ramblers - at least 4 of them 
> including mine. There's a slot in the BB between the seat tube and down 
> tube to allow for internal routing of the taillight wire, but it means 
> those tubes are not welded in a full circle as they would be normally, and 
> obviously a BB shell with a perpendicular slot cut in the top is going to 
> be compromised. Rob from Ocean Air says fault of welders, but other 
> manufactures of Ramblers refused to follow that design spec for fear of 
> exactly what happened to mine and others. Bantam Ramblers are fine, as I 
> assume are the Page Street Ramblers, but I'd steer clear of the ones made 
> by Zen knowing what I know now. 
> And then I crashed it last August and buckled the top tube and down tube, 
> so the slow death was hastened.
>
> Mike M
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 11:47:26 AM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
>>
>> Mike, what happened to the Rambler? Such a nice looking bike.
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 3:21:12 PM UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>>>
>>> Stuff I really like but realistically am not going to use in foreseeable 
>>> future:
>>>
>>> All prices are plus shipping in the 48.
>>>
>>> Nitto Campee Front Rack with detachable lowriders - $120. I love this 
>>> rack and ran it for several years and a few tours on my Rambler. That bike 
>>> is dead and the replacement has custom racks so I no longer have a bike for 
>>> this.  * for what it's worth I bought this rack from Manny, so you KNOW 
>>> it's bombproof.
>>>
>>> Nitto Rear Rack - $110. Not sure of the model. It's similar to the 
>>> 32R/33R but it's neither. Most closely resembles the Simworks On the Road 
>>> Rack 
>>> https://www.sim.works/products/on-the-road-carrier?variant=16532776835 but 
>>> not exactly. Note the last hole on the dropout tang is cut off, there's a 
>>> chance if you wanted to mount this on a tall 700c bike it wouldn't fit. 
>>> Otherwise you should be fine. I'm not a rear rack guy so only used this a 
>>> couple times.
>>>
>>> Velo Orange Front and Rear Constructeur Racks - $50/each - Excellent 
>>> condition.
>>>
>>> Paul Racer Centerpull Brakes 2 pairs (one bike's worth) $150. These also 
>>> came off the Rambler. Excellent brakes. I ran them with 650x42 tires with 
>>> fenders. NOTE: These are NOT the ones with the center mount. You need posts 
>>> designed for centerpulls or mod your bike or build a custom for these 
>>> brakes.
>>>
>>> Paul anodized Brake Adjuster nuts - 2 red, 2 blue, $30. I used these to 
>>> bling the Centerpulls, but they will go on any Paul nutted brakes.
>>>
>>> Check the flickr album here for pics and other goodies for sale (brake 
>>> levers, derailleurs, Bridgestone saddle, B.O.B coin purse...)
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/8199310@N04/49992315273/in/dateposted-public/
>>>
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[lconley]

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 1:40:43 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Remember to focus on the toptube length, kids, to estimate sizing. Grant 
> did these long relative to the seattube length. 


Which is why the Frank Jones Sr. is one of my favorite and best fitting 
bikes. I also like the thinner tubing that still allows the Nitto 27.2 
lugged setback seat post - perfect for those with long torsos like me that 
want drop bars. I need to sell some bikes, but the Frank Jones Sr. is one 
of my keepers.

The Frank Jones Sr. also has a fillet brazed bottom bracket to go with the 
fancy head lugs. These are some of the rarest recent lugged Rivendells and 
don't come up for sale very often.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Campee Front Rack 34F

[maxcr]

I traded my rack for this one with another list member a few months ago, 
but it didn't work for my intended purposes, so I'm putting it up for sale. 

I believe it's the 34F as seen here: 
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-campee-34f-front-low-rider-rack/front_mount_rack_nitto__870-176-11/product

Excellent condition, comes with the hardware that the original seller sent, 
please note: this rack requires braze-on mounts to work properly.

How does $150 shipped sound?

Max

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[RBW] Re: Tubulars on Rivendells

[Scott McLain]

What a beauty!  I am riding a Surly pacer as my go fast bike.  I was 
wondering if I would see much difference in the Pacer and a Rodeo.  I 
believe you have had both.  Is the Rodeo as dreamy as it looks?

Best,
Scott

On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 5:08:11 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> A few things came together and prompted me to build up a tubular wheelset 
> for my Roadeo.  The rims are vintage MAVIC GL330s, and the tires are super 
> sweet Veloflex Vlaanderen which measure a true 27mm.  Now my Roadeo tips 
> the scales at a legit <20 lbs.  I am keeping my clincher wheelset as well, 
> but DANG, this bike is fast with supple tubulars.  
>
> Photo proves I rode The Three Bears on tubulars for the first time in 20 
> years.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/49815410327
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Calaveras Loop (With my new Clem!)

[Justin Lai]

Thanks, Leah! The Clem has been an absolute blast; it feels like I'm in a 
totally different class of vehicle, unlike any bike I've ever ridden. 
Loving your IG posts with your decked out Clem family as well! Cheers. 

Justin

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> #Clemsaregems, Justin! I’ve been following you on Instagram and admiring 
> your new bike; I hope you enjoy every darn mile. I love the grilver - one 
> of Rivendell’s best colors ever. 
>
> Fellow Clem rider, 
> Leah 

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[RBW] Re: Calaveras Loop (With my new Clem!)

[Justin Lai]

Whew, my legs are tensing up just reading your route! I'll have to work up 
to a climb like this-- enjoying the longer rides with more gradual climbs 
for now. Thanks! 

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 11:36:46 AM UTC-7, aeroperf wrote:
>
>
> Justin—
>
> Up Calaveras to Felter, up Felter to Sierra, Up Sierra to Sierra Gunnwood 
> Canyon Rd, then Alum Rock Falls Rd, and finally Mt. Hamilton Rd down into 
> the valley.  I took Piedmont Rd back to Milpitas.
>
> I only did this once, 30 years ago - it is a long day with a lot of 
> verticality - but you get to see some really pretty sights on both sides of 
> the hills.
> I also admit that I called for a ride back up from Milpitas - my Mom lived 
> on Felter Rd and my legs were shot.
> Enjoy!
>

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[RBW] Re: Calaveras Loop (With my new Clem!)

[Justin Lai]

Ted, these recommendations are great-- thanks. I'll report back with some 
photos once I try these. 

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 11:00:32 AM UTC-7, ted wrote:
>
> recommended variation on that route:
> Make a left on Welch Creek (slightly before the bridge near the bottom of 
> the climb on calaveras).
> Go most of the way up and hang a right into Sunol Wilderness on the Eagle 
> View (?) trail at the 2.7 mile marker parking pull out (parking on left).
> Proceed down through the park and out on Geary road.
> Rejoin Calaveras right at the bottom of the climb.
>
> If you're ambitious, take Cave Rocks road up to where it hits Cerro Este 
> road. Great views from up there, but rather a climb.
>
> A nice all pavement variation is to go left after descending "the wall" at 
> the end of Calaveras and take Felter all the way to the top of the climb on 
> Siera. Then descend that down into Milpetas, or reverse back the way you 
> came.
>
> You can also ride into Pleasanton Ridge from Sunol, There is a road that 
> looks like a driveway (identifiable by the presence of a stop sign) that 
> comes off Foothill just just right of where you cross if you go up Kilkare. 
> Take that road up a short steep incline to the end and there is a gate for 
> entering the park at is southernmost end. It's possible (though perhaps not 
> legal) to go north through the park then east and down to hit Palameres 
> road right at the top of that climb. 
>
> On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 9:34:34 AM UTC-7, Justin Lai wrote:
>>
>> Hello, all. Long time lurker, first time poster. 
>>
>>
>> I picked up a new complete Clem H a few weeks ago from Blue Heron Bikes 
>> in Berkeley, and took it on its first proper ride this Sunday on the 
>> Calaveras Loop in Northern California. I fortunately live on the route, so 
>> was able to enjoy the beautiful ride up Niles Canyon in Fremont, back down 
>> along the freshly paved Calaveras Road down to Milpitas (Without ever 
>> getting into a car!) 
>>
>> My buddy and I (Fellow Clem H owner who introduced me to Rivendell and 
>> had me read "Just Ride" last year) stopped at Devout Coffee in Niles Canyon 
>> for some takeout, before making a leisurely pace up Niles Canyon. It was a 
>> perfectly sunny and breezy 70 degrees, and we could not have asked for 
>> better weather. We made plenty of stops for snacks and photos, and took in 
>> the views of the Calaveras Reservoir. After making our descent back down 
>> from the Calaveras hills, we stopped by Taqueria Las Vegas for some 
>> burritos, tacos, and horchata. 
>>
>>
>> I couldn't have asked for a better "maiden voyage". I'm in love with this 
>> bike, and am feeling especially fortunate to live in Northern California. 
>>
>> We're putting together a list of rides to do next. Would love to hear 
>> your recommendations! 
>>
>> You can find more of my photos on Instagram at @jdlclem. 
>>
>> Thanks for reading! 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Causes for bike noises

[Scott McLain]

I had a new Mountain Bike that had a weird click and it was the back wheel 
was loose on the bearings.  

I have taken my whole drive train apart to find to chase a creak that 
turned out to be the pedal.  Pedals are now the first place I look. 
I have heard of seat posts creaking.

I can't stand creaks or if my friends have creaks and squeaks.  Drives me 
nuts.  



On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 2:31:12 PM UTC-6, Clark Fitzgerald wrote:
>
> Sheldon Brown has a great article on Creaks, Clicks, & Clunks 
> .
>
> Yesterday I fixed an annoying ticking noise that happened on most crank 
> rotations, but only in warm weather. The culprit turned out to be the 
> pedals, which I forgot to grease when I installed new pedals on new cranks. 
> Another bike I had (not a Rivendell) had a bad creaking noise that turned 
> out to be from the square taper bottom bracket that was installed at the 
> factory without grease.
>
> I'm curious- what annoying noises have others fixed on their bikes? What 
> caused it?
>

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[RBW] WTB/ISO: Nitto UI-12 stem, 80mm or 70mm extension.

[Adam Leibow]

Hi RBW GG, 

As title mentions, I am looking for a Nitto UI-12 stem (quill stem for use 
with 31.8mm bar clamp dia.) in either 80mm or 70mm. The 90mm I have is just 
slightly too long on my new Homer. 

Let me know what you got. Thanks!

-Adam

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[RBW] Re: FS SCHWALBE Tire Hans Dampf 29 x 2,60 ADDIX Soft EVO APEX TLE Classic-Skin | 2020

[David Wadstrup]

Wow!  That was fast.  The tires have sold.  Thanks, everyone.

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 12:18:07 PM UTC-4, Abcyclehank wrote:
>
> DM sent!
>
> Ryan 
> West Michigan
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Nitto, VO Racks, Paul Centerpulls, Misc.

[velomann]

John,

Re: Rambler, first the bottom bracket cracked. I rode it for over a year 
with an incrementally growing crack spreading up the seat tube. This is 
apparently an issue with the Zen Fabrication Ramblers - at least 4 of them 
including mine. There's a slot in the BB between the seat tube and down 
tube to allow for internal routing of the taillight wire, but it means 
those tubes are not welded in a full circle as they would be normally, and 
obviously a BB shell with a perpendicular slot cut in the top is going to 
be compromised. Rob from Ocean Air says fault of welders, but other 
manufactures of Ramblers refused to follow that design spec for fear of 
exactly what happened to mine and others. Bantam Ramblers are fine, as I 
assume are the Page Street Ramblers, but I'd steer clear of the ones made 
by Zen knowing what I know now. 
And then I crashed it last August and buckled the top tube and down tube, 
so the slow death was hastened.

Mike M

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 11:47:26 AM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
>
> Mike, what happened to the Rambler? Such a nice looking bike.
>
> On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 3:21:12 PM UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>>
>> Stuff I really like but realistically am not going to use in foreseeable 
>> future:
>>
>> All prices are plus shipping in the 48.
>>
>> Nitto Campee Front Rack with detachable lowriders - $120. I love this 
>> rack and ran it for several years and a few tours on my Rambler. That bike 
>> is dead and the replacement has custom racks so I no longer have a bike for 
>> this.  * for what it's worth I bought this rack from Manny, so you KNOW 
>> it's bombproof.
>>
>> Nitto Rear Rack - $110. Not sure of the model. It's similar to the 
>> 32R/33R but it's neither. Most closely resembles the Simworks On the Road 
>> Rack 
>> https://www.sim.works/products/on-the-road-carrier?variant=16532776835 but 
>> not exactly. Note the last hole on the dropout tang is cut off, there's a 
>> chance if you wanted to mount this on a tall 700c bike it wouldn't fit. 
>> Otherwise you should be fine. I'm not a rear rack guy so only used this a 
>> couple times.
>>
>> Velo Orange Front and Rear Constructeur Racks - $50/each - Excellent 
>> condition.
>>
>> Paul Racer Centerpull Brakes 2 pairs (one bike's worth) $150. These also 
>> came off the Rambler. Excellent brakes. I ran them with 650x42 tires with 
>> fenders. NOTE: These are NOT the ones with the center mount. You need posts 
>> designed for centerpulls or mod your bike or build a custom for these 
>> brakes.
>>
>> Paul anodized Brake Adjuster nuts - 2 red, 2 blue, $30. I used these to 
>> bling the Centerpulls, but they will go on any Paul nutted brakes.
>>
>> Check the flickr album here for pics and other goodies for sale (brake 
>> levers, derailleurs, Bridgestone saddle, B.O.B coin purse...)
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/8199310@N04/49992315273/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> Mike M
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Cameras for Biking

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Deacon:

Your photos speak for themselves. Keep doing what you’re doing!

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 12:54 PM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Aye, Eric, friction between riding and photo is a thing. For me the equation 
> is complicated by the technical trails I ride, necessitating a mirrorless 
> camera be in a protective case inside my bike bag. But, because of a number 
> of factors, the form fitting leather case I got is not usable with the tripod 
> I use (detachable plate conflicts with the case), so I have to remove the 
> camera in case from the bike bag, then the camera from the leather case to 
> take shots. Haven't found anything on the market that addresses these issues, 
> short of a direct mount tripod, but I've not seen or looked hard for one 
> equal to the Velbon EX-Macro. 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1007229-REG/velbon_ex_macro_ex_macro_aluminum_tabletop_tripod.html?sts=pi=Y
>  
> 
> 
> The good news, for me, is when I want to take pictures, I'm remote, and it's 
> relaxed, so the extra friction is just part of using more purposeful gear.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick
> 
> On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:06:36 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
> Amen! There’s a design concept called “friction” that seeks to make things as 
> easy as possible (for instance, “Buy It Now” buttons on web sites). For me, 
> this is directly applicable to photography while riding: If I have to do more 
> than about three things to get to the point where I can take a picture, it’s 
> too complicated and I find that I don’t even try. 
> 
> Basically, I like a camera that I can 1) reach into the bag and grab, 2) turn 
> on/activate, and 3) put to my eye and shoot. Steps 1 and 2 should be possible 
> without looking at the camera. Depending on the circumstances, I may just 
> “aim” and shoot without using the viewfinder.
> 
> This is why I don’t like using my phone (other than the risk of dropping it). 
> Getting the darn thing unlocked and then loading the camera app *or* pressing 
> on the screen in the right place to start the camera is just too complicated 
> and requires too much attention.
> 
> This is also why I’m trending toward auto-focus, auto-exposure 
> point-and-shoot film cameras. I love rangefinders and have a bunch of them, 
> but unless I set the focus and hope for the best, they’re not useful to me 
> for bicycle shooting … unless I’m willing to stop, focus, meter (for cameras 
> like Rob K’s Leica iii), compose, and shoot.
> 
> These days, I likes cameras like the Olympus XA-4, which allows me to zone 
> focus and just point (wide angle lens makes it easier to aim). I also have a 
> few 1980s-ish point and shoot cameras like the Yashica T3 and Minoltal 
> HiMatic AF2 that are easy to use and do everything but push their own shutter 
> button. Most of these cameras even load and advance the film automatically. I 
> find I take more pictures when I carry these cameras.
> 
> This is based on almost 40 years of cycling photography. I started shooting 
> pictures of rides in the early 80s, using disposable film cameras that by 
> coincidence met the ease of use characteristics that I became aware of years 
> later. 
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com <>
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2020, at 4:04 AM, Augi > wrote:
>> 
>> I think the most important part of carrying a camera is how easy it is to 
>> get to.  I drop it into my stem/bar bag so I can pull it out at anytime.
>> 
>> https://www.outershelladventure.com/shop/7826r9hyzpjknnobe479ebu35yse8v 
>> 
>> 
>> When I used to pack my camera in a real bag, I noticed I got too lazy to get 
>> it out and in a jersey pocket doesn't work for me.  I get too sweaty.
>> 
>> 
>> On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 3:49:31 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>> 
>> How do you haul it, use it, etc?
>> 
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <>.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3194e866-f709-42cc-b495-195cde96c4a5o%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> .
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Cameras for Biking

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Aye, Eric, friction between riding and photo is a thing. For me the 
equation is complicated by the technical trails I ride, necessitating a 
mirrorless camera be in a protective case inside my bike bag. But, because 
of a number of factors, the form fitting leather case I got is not usable 
with the tripod I use (detachable plate conflicts with the case), so I have 
to remove the camera in case from the bike bag, then the camera from the 
leather case to take shots. Haven't found anything on the market that 
addresses these issues, short of a direct mount tripod, but I've not seen 
or looked hard for one equal to the Velbon EX-Macro. 
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1007229-REG/velbon_ex_macro_ex_macro_aluminum_tabletop_tripod.html?sts=pi=Y

The good news, for me, is when I want to take pictures, I'm remote, and 
it's relaxed, so the extra friction is just part of using more purposeful 
gear.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:06:36 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Amen! There’s a design concept called “friction” that seeks to make things 
> as easy as possible (for instance, “Buy It Now” buttons on web sites). For 
> me, this is directly applicable to photography while riding: If I have to 
> do more than about three things to get to the point where I can take a 
> picture, it’s too complicated and I find that I don’t even try. 
>
> Basically, I like a camera that I can 1) reach into the bag and grab, 2) 
> turn on/activate, and 3) put to my eye and shoot. Steps 1 and 2 should be 
> possible without looking at the camera. Depending on the circumstances, I 
> may just “aim” and shoot without using the viewfinder.
>
> This is why I don’t like using my phone (other than the risk of dropping 
> it). Getting the darn thing unlocked and then loading the camera app *or* 
> pressing on the screen in the right place to start the camera is just too 
> complicated and requires too much attention.
>
> This is also why I’m trending toward auto-focus, auto-exposure 
> point-and-shoot film cameras. I love rangefinders and have a bunch of them, 
> but unless I set the focus and hope for the best, they’re not useful to me 
> for bicycle shooting … unless I’m willing to stop, focus, meter (for 
> cameras like Rob K’s Leica iii), compose, and shoot.
>
> These days, I likes cameras like the Olympus XA-4, which allows me to zone 
> focus and just point (wide angle lens makes it easier to aim). I also have 
> a few 1980s-ish point and shoot cameras like the Yashica T3 and Minoltal 
> HiMatic AF2 that are easy to use and do everything but push their own 
> shutter button. Most of these cameras even load and advance the film 
> automatically. I find I take more pictures when I carry these cameras.
>
> This is based on almost 40 years of cycling photography. I started 
> shooting pictures of rides in the early 80s, using disposable film cameras 
> that by coincidence met the ease of use characteristics that I became aware 
> of years later. 
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On Jun 9, 2020, at 4:04 AM, Augi > wrote:
>
> I think the most important part of carrying a camera is how easy it is to 
> get to.  I drop it into my stem/bar bag so I can pull it out at anytime.
>
> https://www.outershelladventure.com/shop/7826r9hyzpjknnobe479ebu35yse8v
>
> When I used to pack my camera in a real bag, I noticed I got too lazy to 
> get it out and in a jersey pocket doesn't work for me.  I get too sweaty.
>
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 3:49:31 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>>
>> How do you haul it, use it, etc?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com .
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3194e866-f709-42cc-b495-195cde96c4a5o%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cameras for Biking

[Paul Brodek]

Late to the party again. And a little rusty re: current camera market as 
I'm 3mos into covid furlough and expending energy elsewhere. I also have 
very little knowledge/experience/depth re: newer multi-sensor/multi-lens 
phone cams. I'm sure there's a lot you can do with them, but given the size 
of the sensors, I'm not sure how they'd stack up against a camera sensor 
10x bigger with a good, fast prime lens. In general:

Whatevs: A good eye for subject/composition/color/etc/etc beats technology, 
for the most part. The camera/stove quote is on the mark. And anything you 
use is better than nothing.

Film vs digital: Whatever floats yer boat, I suppose, though digital 
certainly is handier, and post-exposure is a zillion times more flexible. I 
suppose if you get your film scanned and work from the digital files, 
you've got your flexibility back, but how much do you have to pay to get a 
scan from a neg that's going to match the native output from even a 
midrange digicam?

Sensor size/generations: Bigger sensors are better, more detail, less 
noise, more flexible files. But sensor age/generation matters as well, so a 
5yr-old full-frame sensor might not hold up all that well against a very 
recent APS-C, M43 or even 1-inch sensor. As far as certain parameters are 
concerned. My 1st-gen Sony A7 full-frame with a 85mm f/1.2 lens shot 
wide-open is gonna give me better subject isolation out of the camera than 
any smaller sensor can, no matter how recent the smaller sensor.  

Point-and-shoot vs SLR/Mirrorless: P for compactness, bigger 
camera/sensor for better image quality. With the sole exception of the 
Panny LX100, which has the same sensor size as Panny's mirrorless bodies. 
Interchangeable-lens cameras obviously also give you lens 
choice/flexibility.

Mirrorless vs DSLR: Mirrorless all the way. DSLRs are dinosaurs after the 
meteor hit---their days are numbered. And unlike the dinos, they have 
little reason to exist any more. But I am prejudiced.

As for my faves/recs:

Point-and-shoot: Panny LX100/LX100II wins over Sony RX100 any version: if 
the bigger size isn't an issue, LX100 has a significantly bigger sensor, 
much better viewfinder and very nice set of analog controls. You're limited 
in telephoto reach, though, only 75mm, so if you need more, RX100vi or vii, 
whichever goes to 200mm zoom. Just know you're getting that zoom at the 
expense of lens maximum aperture/speed, and smaller sensor means less 
detail, more noise, less flexibility. 

M43: GM5 is still the emperor for small size packing a big punch. I do like 
the newer GX85, and the even more recent GX9 for better vf, handling, 
quicker af and better sensors, but they are bigger.

Fuji: If you like the idea of the XT1/2/3/4, take a look at the XT10/20/30. 
Same generational sensors, still significant analog controls, significantly 
smaller. The viewfinder is also smaller, which is a negative, but the 
smaller overall body size can make up for that.

Bigger: If you want detail and soft backgrounds and all that stuff, there's 
no real substitute for full frame, fast primes and lotsa pixels. I'll sling 
a Sony A7RII and 85mm, 90mm or 105mm prime in a Think Tank MindShift 15 bag 
if I'm shooting bike pron. If you ain't sufferin', it ain't art.

Leica M8 & IIIf: Holy Hannah!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA
  

On Monday, June 8, 2020 at 11:38:55 AM UTC-4, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
> I really like compact mirrorless cameras, and currently use a Panasonic 
> Lumix GM5. At the time I bought it a few years ago, it was the smallest 
> interchangeable lens mirrorless camera on the market (bar of soap size 
> body). It has a solid feeling mostly metal body and the quality of 
> construction seems great IMO. Panasonic makes a Leica that looks almost 
> identical, so I consider this a poor man's Leica. I suppose the Leica has 
> different software or some other tweaks, but I don't really know. There 
> might be something smaller now. It uses the micro 4/3 system lenses. I have 
> a couple of primes that are nice for cycling. One complaint is that the 
> stock lens it comes with, a 12-32mm, has to be rotated about an 1/8 of a 
> turn to be in shooting mode--if you shoot while riding, this is a problem. 
> For that reason, I purchased a couple of primes: a Lumix 20mm 1.7 and an 
> Olympus Zuiko 45mm 1.8. The 20mm lens is good for all around landscape and 
> street shots and cycling stuff--Zuiko 45mm is excellent for portraits. 
>
> I've also owned the first generation Fuji x100. I loved the quality of the 
> images and the film simulation modes, but the large size of the body and 
> really bad UI (not the manual controls, but the digital settings). 
>
> If I was buying again today, I might consider the Lumix LX100 2 with the 
> non-interchangable zoom. I find I don't change my lense as much as I 
> thought I would. Paul Brodek is really up on the Lumix line and cameras in 
> general so I hope he weighs in. 
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 

[RBW] Re: FS - Nitto, VO Racks, Paul Centerpulls, Misc.

[John Bokman]

Mike, what happened to the Rambler? Such a nice looking bike.

On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 3:21:12 PM UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>
> Stuff I really like but realistically am not going to use in foreseeable 
> future:
>
> All prices are plus shipping in the 48.
>
> Nitto Campee Front Rack with detachable lowriders - $120. I love this rack 
> and ran it for several years and a few tours on my Rambler. That bike is 
> dead and the replacement has custom racks so I no longer have a bike for 
> this.  * for what it's worth I bought this rack from Manny, so you KNOW 
> it's bombproof.
>
> Nitto Rear Rack - $110. Not sure of the model. It's similar to the 32R/33R 
> but it's neither. Most closely resembles the Simworks On the Road Rack 
> https://www.sim.works/products/on-the-road-carrier?variant=16532776835 but 
> not exactly. Note the last hole on the dropout tang is cut off, there's a 
> chance if you wanted to mount this on a tall 700c bike it wouldn't fit. 
> Otherwise you should be fine. I'm not a rear rack guy so only used this a 
> couple times.
>
> Velo Orange Front and Rear Constructeur Racks - $50/each - Excellent 
> condition.
>
> Paul Racer Centerpull Brakes 2 pairs (one bike's worth) $150. These also 
> came off the Rambler. Excellent brakes. I ran them with 650x42 tires with 
> fenders. NOTE: These are NOT the ones with the center mount. You need posts 
> designed for centerpulls or mod your bike or build a custom for these 
> brakes.
>
> Paul anodized Brake Adjuster nuts - 2 red, 2 blue, $30. I used these to 
> bling the Centerpulls, but they will go on any Paul nutted brakes.
>
> Check the flickr album here for pics and other goodies for sale (brake 
> levers, derailleurs, Bridgestone saddle, B.O.B coin purse...)
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/8199310@N04/49992315273/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Mike M
>

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[RBW] Re: Cracked Tension Bolt on B17

[spencer robinson]

Brady,
You need the tensioner bolt that is on the front of the saddle? I have one 
here in my box of interesting things. , the bolt with the nut on it. I am 
not sure how you change it but you are welcome to it. I am up the river in 
Columbia County. Send me a USPS address and I can stick it in the mail.


On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 6:19:57 PM UTC-4, Brady Smith wrote:

> I know there are a few old threads on this but I thought I’d ask if anyone 
> had recent experiences of replacing the tension bolt on a B17 saddle. Mine 
> has snapped after about 3000 miles, or roughly a year. I haven’t heard back 
> from Brooks customer service yet and the only replacement I could find on 
> the webs will take about 3 weeks to get to me (odd thing to be sold out 
> everywhere...). Is this doable at home? Has anyone successfully substituted 
> something from the hardware store? I’ll be riding my backup bike with a 
> Cambium in the meantime and after today’s ride I can confirm that the 
> Cambium is not nearly as comfortable...

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Joe Bernard]

Remember to focus on the toptube length, kids, to estimate sizing. Grant did 
these long relative to the seattube length. 

Also note: Saddle height in pics is artificially tall for my short cranks, stem 
is at full extension to accommodate my arthritic hands. I should probably drop 
both to give a better representation of how the bike would set up for most 
potential buyers, but then I'm adding adjustment squigglies to those parts. 
Nobody wants that! 

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[RBW] Re: FS- 53cm Atlantis with s couplers (26” wheels)

[Joe Bernard]

Score! My attempt to help failed but the photo link you posted works. The 
moderator really prefers we do photos this way anyway because it uses less 
(some computer word I don't remember). 

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Re: [RBW] Next Level Clementine

[Joe Bernard]

"Kim, you’re so humble. You should tell them who you really are! I think there 
are photos from a rather beloved publication featuring Kim..."

Tell the world, Kim! (btw Flowerfang is an awesome name ❤️)

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Re: [RBW] Next Level Clementine

[Leah Peterson]

Well, I am not sure if Kim is Clem-loving but she is most definitely a 
#RivSister if I have anything to say about it. In fact, she is the most famous 
and beloved of the #RivSisters, I think. Kim, you’re so humble. You should tell 
them who you really are! I think there are photos from a rather beloved 
publication featuring Kim

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 9:39 AM, 'Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Leah,
> 
> Is Flowerfang (Kim) another Clem loving #rivsister.  There can never be 
> enough of you ladies.  So refreshing to read about.
> 
> Ryan
> West Michigan
> 
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[RBW] Re: Brooks vs Berthoud Saddle Setback

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Andrew

Just for reference, do you know the STA of your Atlantis or the frame size 
(looks to be 53cm) and year.  Like to know if it <72°.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:36:46 PM UTC-4, Drurad (Sacramento) wrote:
>
> And here's what Craig's saddle will look like on your bike.  Highly 
> recommend.  Plenty of setback for me.   
>
> -Andrew
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Schwalbe Big Ones 29x2.35

[Dave Grossman]

Sold

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Re: [RBW] Next Level Clementine

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Leah,

Is Flowerfang (Kim) another Clem loving #rivsister.  There can never be enough 
of you ladies.  So refreshing to read about.

Ryan
West Michigan

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[RBW] Re: Every cog size Shimano 10 speed cog collection

[Garth]

Thanks a bunch Bill, that's very helpful !

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[RBW] FS SCHWALBE Tire Hans Dampf 29 x 2,60 ADDIX Soft EVO APEX TLE Classic-Skin | 2020

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

DM sent!

Ryan 
West Michigan

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Excitment on IG

[johnboy]

Leah, You don’t know me, but I’ve just got to say “Platy de Belle” or perhaps 
“Peppermint Platy” if the color is rightok ,I got that out of my system, 
I’ll go back in my cave...John

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Re: [RBW] Cameras for Biking

[Rob Klurfield]

David, thanks. The Gordy's works well.

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 1:13:12 PM UTC-4, David Hays wrote:
>
> Nice cameras. And I love the Gordy’s strap! Very Bobish.
>
> On Jun 9, 2020, at 9:15 AM, Rob Klurfield  > wrote:
>
> 
>
> Leica M8 with Canon 35 f2 LTM and Leica IIIf with 50 f2 Summitar (Legacy 
> Pro 100 B film). Good to go. Also had a couple of tangerines in there.
>  
>
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>  
> 
> .
> 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] New Camera Day

[kim young]

WOW

On Thursday, June 11, 2020, Christopher Cote 
wrote:

> Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
>
> Chris
>
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> 334868b0ba4ao%40googlegroups.com.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 61cm Toyo Atlantis w/ Clockwork fork. Disc tabs added

[Andrew Stevens]

howdy chris, im super interested. do you have any pics of the disc tab 
brazing on the rear triangle?



On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 4:44:00 AM UTC-5, chris feczko wrote:
>
> Album 
>
> Unfortunatley I have to let this one go. Covid changed a lot of my riding 
> prospects and it doesn't make too much sense for me to keep this bike right 
> now. I would like to pass it on to someone who would.
>
> Purchased the frame from a list member over a year ago. The fork was built 
> by Clockwork bikes and the rear bridge/ disc tab was done by him as well.
>
> I'm thinking $1600 shipped CONUS for the FFH+BB, Velocity Blunt 35 rims 
> and 2.1 T-Burts. Rear side knobs have been shaved off since they were on a 
> previous bike although there is loads of clearance on this one. Open to 
> offers and open to selling more of the parts too except for the cranks and 
> saddle. 
>
> I can include more detailed pictures upon request.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> Queens
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Looking for Brooks C17

[Christine Justice]

I have the carved model. Ridden less than 100 miles. Bought new last 
October, but it's been gathering dust since I replaced it with a WTB. LOVE 
the look, but sadly my booty doesn't get along with it at all. $70 shipped

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 4:14:27 PM UTC-6, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> Let me know if you have one. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Leather saddle recommendation for upright Sam H?

['John Phillips' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Maybe take a look at the Ergon ST Core Prime? I have friends who like 
these one their errand/urban bikes.

I use a Berthoud Vars, but you already said you found Berthouds too hard.

John

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 9:36:30 AM UTC-7, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone!
>
> I'm rebuilding an older double top-tube Sam Hillborne from the frame up, 
> and I'm struggling to find a comfortable leather saddle for an upright 
> ride. I don't mean "kinda upright", I mean straight back like a dutch bike 
> for errands and trips around time — achieving this with a Bosco bar and 
> super long Nitto tectonic stem pushed all the way up.
>
> I'm 175 lbs, 5'11" and have 115mm sitbones and normally ride a Fizik 
> Aliante or B17 Narrow on my more aggressive bikes... but putting either of 
> those saddles on the upright doesn't work. My sitbones fall off, and I'm 
> riding on "soft tissue". Ouch. 
>
> Other saddles that have not worked:
>
>- B17/Flyer: Too narrow. Sit bones fall off the edge, and upturned 
>nose pokes in a bad place.
>- B68: Too wide, chafes a bit, and slippery. 
>- Berthoud Mente: Hard as a rock, and possibly a little too wide (hard 
>to tell as it is so hard).
>- Brooks Cambium C19: Sit area curves down so much on the sides it's 
>really no wider than a C15 — or B17.
>- Rivet Loveland: Ditto.
>
> What sort of of works:
>
>- 170mm wide Brompton "Wide version" foam saddle I pilfered from my 
>wife's folding bike. Feels pretty good. But really, really dumb looking on 
>the Sam. I strongly prefer a leather saddle as the bike is turning out 
>quite lovely, and looks do count!
>
> Any suggestions? 
>
> PS: If someone has a tried and true way to break in the Berthoud, I might 
> do it. The issue is I'll never ride a century on this bike, and I'm afraid 
> that breaking the Mente in the normal way will take a year or more.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Paul
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Next Level Clementine

[kim young]

:) Lol. Tail wagging !


On Thursday, June 11, 2020, Leah Peterson  wrote:

> I would like to hug your neck, Kim. Back at you! ❤️
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 11, 2020, at 9:36 AM, kim young  wrote:
>
> Magic bikes are priceless.
> It is as beautiful as you are Leah!
> 吏‍♀️ 
>
> On Wednesday, June 10, 2020, Leah Peterson 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks, I’m glad you like it. A lot of care went into putting it all
>> together, and especially since the shop hadn’t seen parts like these come
>> to their work stand before.
>>
>> I consider it generally bad form to delve into one’s income level, so I
>> will steer the conversation in a different direction. I will say that I
>> enjoy supporting small businesses and that the $225 spent on labor was
>> money well spent. Just a thought.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 10:15 AM, Adam Leibow  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Cool story! It's awesome that that shop was able to appreciate the bike,
>> and took such care in doing the work. That is a really nice build. That
>> being said, I can't imagine how much you spent on all this! One reason I am
>> able to afford the bikes I have is I can build them myself, which is a huge
>> savings. Just a thought.
>>
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>> 40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
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[RBW] Re: FS- 53cm Atlantis with s couplers (26” wheels)

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0vJtdOXmG2M4AU

Hope this works.

How can picture posting be so stressful.

Sincerely,
Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan

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Re: [RBW] Re: MKS Bear Trap Pedals?

[Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY)]

In case you didn't see Will's email update yesterday, here are the new MKS 
bear trap pedals. Riv got 30 but only 8 left in stock as of this posting.

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/pedals/products/blue-lug-mks-bear-trap-xc-iii-pedals



On Sunday, May 24, 2020 at 10:24:44 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> The bear traps are basically considered the first "mountain bike" pedals 
> and they were basically IT until Shimano came out with their DX platform 
> pedals. 
> I think most people love Bear traps until you've had them dig into the 
> back of your calf a couple times. Also the rounded part on the end tends to 
> get bashed in fairly easily. 
> It's a nice bit of nostalgia from people who are probably not old enough 
> to remember them from 1981.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 6:26:37 AM UTC-7, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> If this was one size bigger


Then we will have a bidding war! :) 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Andrew Huston]

If this was one size bigger

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[RBW] New Camera Day

[WETH]

I think you described this camera in another thread as being old technology or 
something similar.  It reminded me of this:
“A photographer went to a socialite party in New York.  As he entered the front 
door, the host said, ‘I love your pictures – they’re wonderful; you must have a 
fantastic camera.’ 
The photographer said nothing until dinner was finished, then: ‘That was a 
wonderful dinner; you must have a terrific Stove.'” 
Deacon Patrick you are an artist.  It’s all about finding the proper gear that 
allows us to capture our vision!  Well done! I’ll look forward Ron more 
beautiful images from you.

Erl Houston
Kensington, MD

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Doug Hansford]

Wow. The lug work and paint is so nice on this bike. And, the build is top 
notch. Someone should grab this one!
Doug Hansford


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[RBW] Re: Cracked Tension Bolt on B17

[Brady Smith]

I'm just outside NYC. It looks like the only authorized repair shops are in 
Seattle and Philadelphia, and the one in Philly (Transport Cycles) is all 
out of the part. This may take a while... Thanks for your attention!

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:36:32 PM UTC-4, Ted Lewis wrote:
>
> Whereabouts are you? Maybe try calling around to LBS that sell a lot of 
> Brooks or have a good repair shop. 
> Failing that, try googling for places near you that would have parts on 
> hand. E.g. in Seattle 
> http://www.rideyourbike.com/brookssaddlerepair.shtml

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[RBW] Re: Every cog size Shimano 10 speed cog collection

[Bill Lindsay]

I held the cassette in my left hand.  I ground off the flat head of each 
rivet with my dremel.  The force and action required was similar to what I 
would have done trying to erase a pencil mark.  It took roughly 30 seconds 
per rivet.  

Once the heads were ground off, I set the cassette over a small gap.  In my 
case it was a small gap between my vise jaws.  With a drift punch and a 
rubber mallet I tapped the rivet once, and it stuck out the other side.  I 
grabbed the stuck out other head with pliers and pulled it out.  The force 
required varied between zero and maybe the amount of pull force it takes to 
pull a rusty brake cable out of its non-lined brake cable housing.  

The entire time it took to go from a sealed shipping box to the cog 
arrangement in the photo was somewhere between 4 and 5 minutes.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 1:59:01 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>  
>
> Bill, did you only have to grind off the top of the rivet and they pulled 
> apart ?  No punching out or drilling the rod ? For that matter, how did you 
> secure the cassettes for the grinding off the heads ?  
>
> Inquiring minds wish to know !
>
>
>>

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[RBW] New Camera Day

[Will Ashe]

Great photos, Deacon! Enjoy the new camera. 

Will in Austin. 

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[RBW] Re: Golden Pliers Roadini Raffle

[Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA]

Knowing who won is the next best thing to winning myself! Awesome! 

Enjoy the NBD to come!

Marty

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:33:35 PM UTC-4, EGNolan wrote:
>
> I've taken a few years off the Group (and unfortunately spent less time on 
> the bike) to focus on the transitions from employed to self-employed and 
> all the energy that takes. Good news, though, I won the Roadini! I've 
> gotten back into the swing of research and parts gathering to get myself 
> ready. It looks like the Roadini will be here early next week. I'll get you 
> all some photo updates once I've got it built back up.
>
> Best,
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Every cog size Shimano 10 speed cog collection

[Garth]

 

Bill, did you only have to grind off the top of the rivet and they pulled 
apart ?  No punching out or drilling the rod ? For that matter, how did you 
secure the cassettes for the grinding off the heads ?  

Inquiring minds wish to know !


>

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[RBW] FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Joe Bernard]

It's in Novato, CA. 
joeremi62 gmail com

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