Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Kim H.]

There is a small screw on the back side of the upper part of the IRD seat 
post that inhibits the post from being pushed down any further into the 
seat tube is what maybe Leah is talking about. 

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA.



On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 9:15:29 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Leah,
>Would cutting a couple inches off your seatpost solve your problem?
> A 350mm long seatpost is pretty long and likely intended for frames with 
> very extreme slope to the top tube
> Standard Rivendell issue seatposts measure 250 mm from the seat clamp to 
> the end of the shaft. 
> 350mm would add approximately 4 inches to the length. 
> Does that help clarify your question?
>
> Ray
>  
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 9:01:32 PM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Leah,
>>
>> I do not know an answer for your question. I did own an older version of 
>> the IRD Wayback seat post only to discover that I could not get the seat 
>> post down far enough to my liking on my Clem. I sold the post. 
>> My next move was to find and buy a Sakae Ringyo MTE-100 27.2mm post with 
>> a shim to fit my 29.8mm seat tube.  I have had these posts on other bikes 
>> of mine in the past. I did find one on eBay late last year and bought it. 
>> It solved a number of problems for me. One was the amount of setback I 
>> wanted and secondly, I could set the post down a lot farther than I could 
>> than with the IRD Wayback post.  I remain very happy and pleased to this 
>> day with my long torso and short limbs. 
>>
>> May I suggest that you buy a Sakae Ringyo MTE-100 seat post off of eBay 
>> with a shim. I do not know how much setback you need. I know it may not be 
>> the most pretty post, but it solves some problems that I had. 
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/266342844000?hash=item3e03454660:g:frAAAOSwo81kmkUz=enc%3AAQAI8FLf%2FUeKjieKezFbVz6E9gAvKDh5HcoG4VtgU1iFW1NWJlrtlB8aYsomq%2FYB8kFjNEmIJZ7CJ4nQahP8fzyDoHavsHhcO2LwqhfxAJrSBKgR80ofpTP54ZjWbfYdRid7uciTYf4BOhd244iPZbPLcmdTzQLGOxptIGt7rApnbIY5yUiDBghaCQRn1Ci%2F0mS173o4kIWrxOtpCHwQVWuR1AHrztBe%2BTDTMlniIK77f%2FrUYuDI4NyxDtm5MoiCPm82jMCnAbU9ZVjHHw61%2BbP14LSz8ZqMh5wTXORNvUi%2BSjvE3Z%2BU3TK7ppru64Sb9n%2Fz%2Bg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8b_7YOyYg
>>
>> Trying to help.
>>
>> I put a piece of white tape on the upper part of the post to mark as a 
>> stopping point of insertion as shown in the picture. 
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA. [image: Terry Cite X Gel Saddle after modifications to SR 
>> MTE-100 seat post - March 8, 2023.jpg]
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 5:32:54 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone know if you can get the seatpost lower with the new design? 
>>> My IRD post from Riv needs 5 inches and I’ve got it totally slammed. It 
>>> would be nice to know I had a post I could put a little lower. Also, the 
>>> product page shows lengths of 250-350mm and the way I read it, it is 
>>> measuring the shaft of the seat post, not the setback? How would one know 
>>> which length to choose?
>>> Leah
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 3:55:06 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>
 Very Good Max ! 

 I got the Soma email that showed the seatpost and noticed it looked 
 different, as it was. It's been redesigned with a new forged head and now 
 is 30mm setback rather than the 50mm. 

 Just so anyone ordering the post understand IRD doesn't make the 
 previous version anymore. Read the fine print ! 

 On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 2:58:18 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:

> Things are working for me without swapping seatposts and simply by 
> pushing my saddle forward instead of backwards.
>
> If anyone is still looking, the IRD posts seem to be back at Somafab: 
> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/ird-seatpost-wayback-compact-6972?search=compact#attr=346,4463,1073
>
> Max
>
> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 8:08:15 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> I'd guess it's working out for Max since he hasn't posted an update, 
>> that's usually how it goes when all is well !  
>>
>> I can't say bike fitting is mysterious, I'd call it intuitive. While 
>> others can help steer you in the right direction, the fine tuning is all 
>> an 
>> "inside job", so to speak. Just as no one can eat or breathe for 
>> another, 
>> the Life that Lives In and As ALL isn't up for "negotiation". It MUST BE 
>> ! 
>>
>> Since I've been re-familiarizing myself with riding in road position 
>> with DT shifters and new saddle, I've moved mine forward some 15mm+ from 
>> when I started with it. It just keeps feeling better, as in more 
>> efficient/effective use of what strengths I have. Yesterday I 
>> unexpectedly 
>> found myself riding up a knarly hill that has some really steep 
>> sections. I 
>> had not ridden it in a long time and surely had my doubts as to doing 
>> it. 
>> It took a while to get in the groove and took to standing on the initial 

Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Ray Varella]

Leah,
   Would cutting a couple inches off your seatpost solve your problem?
A 350mm long seatpost is pretty long and likely intended for frames with 
very extreme slope to the top tube
Standard Rivendell issue seatposts measure 250 mm from the seat clamp to 
the end of the shaft. 
350mm would add approximately 4 inches to the length. 
Does that help clarify your question?

Ray
 
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 9:01:32 PM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Leah,
>
> I do not know an answer for your question. I did own an older version of 
> the IRD Wayback seat post only to discover that I could not get the seat 
> post down far enough to my liking on my Clem. I sold the post. 
> My next move was to find and buy a Sakae Ringyo MTE-100 27.2mm post with a 
> shim to fit my 29.8mm seat tube.  I have had these posts on other bikes of 
> mine in the past. I did find one on eBay late last year and bought it. It 
> solved a number of problems for me. One was the amount of setback I wanted 
> and secondly, I could set the post down a lot farther than I could than 
> with the IRD Wayback post.  I remain very happy and pleased to this day 
> with my long torso and short limbs. 
>
> May I suggest that you buy a Sakae Ringyo MTE-100 seat post off of eBay 
> with a shim. I do not know how much setback you need. I know it may not be 
> the most pretty post, but it solves some problems that I had. 
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/266342844000?hash=item3e03454660:g:frAAAOSwo81kmkUz=enc%3AAQAI8FLf%2FUeKjieKezFbVz6E9gAvKDh5HcoG4VtgU1iFW1NWJlrtlB8aYsomq%2FYB8kFjNEmIJZ7CJ4nQahP8fzyDoHavsHhcO2LwqhfxAJrSBKgR80ofpTP54ZjWbfYdRid7uciTYf4BOhd244iPZbPLcmdTzQLGOxptIGt7rApnbIY5yUiDBghaCQRn1Ci%2F0mS173o4kIWrxOtpCHwQVWuR1AHrztBe%2BTDTMlniIK77f%2FrUYuDI4NyxDtm5MoiCPm82jMCnAbU9ZVjHHw61%2BbP14LSz8ZqMh5wTXORNvUi%2BSjvE3Z%2BU3TK7ppru64Sb9n%2Fz%2Bg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8b_7YOyYg
>
> Trying to help.
>
> I put a piece of white tape on the upper part of the post to mark as a 
> stopping point of insertion as shown in the picture. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. [image: Terry Cite X Gel Saddle after modifications to SR 
> MTE-100 seat post - March 8, 2023.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 5:32:54 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know if you can get the seatpost lower with the new design? 
>> My IRD post from Riv needs 5 inches and I’ve got it totally slammed. It 
>> would be nice to know I had a post I could put a little lower. Also, the 
>> product page shows lengths of 250-350mm and the way I read it, it is 
>> measuring the shaft of the seat post, not the setback? How would one know 
>> which length to choose?
>> Leah
>>
>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 3:55:06 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Very Good Max ! 
>>>
>>> I got the Soma email that showed the seatpost and noticed it looked 
>>> different, as it was. It's been redesigned with a new forged head and now 
>>> is 30mm setback rather than the 50mm. 
>>>
>>> Just so anyone ordering the post understand IRD doesn't make the 
>>> previous version anymore. Read the fine print ! 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 2:58:18 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 Things are working for me without swapping seatposts and simply by 
 pushing my saddle forward instead of backwards.

 If anyone is still looking, the IRD posts seem to be back at Somafab: 
 https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/ird-seatpost-wayback-compact-6972?search=compact#attr=346,4463,1073

 Max

 On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 8:08:15 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> I'd guess it's working out for Max since he hasn't posted an update, 
> that's usually how it goes when all is well !  
>
> I can't say bike fitting is mysterious, I'd call it intuitive. While 
> others can help steer you in the right direction, the fine tuning is all 
> an 
> "inside job", so to speak. Just as no one can eat or breathe for another, 
> the Life that Lives In and As ALL isn't up for "negotiation". It MUST BE 
> ! 
>
> Since I've been re-familiarizing myself with riding in road position 
> with DT shifters and new saddle, I've moved mine forward some 15mm+ from 
> when I started with it. It just keeps feeling better, as in more 
> efficient/effective use of what strengths I have. Yesterday I 
> unexpectedly 
> found myself riding up a knarly hill that has some really steep sections. 
> I 
> had not ridden it in a long time and surely had my doubts as to doing it. 
> It took a while to get in the groove and took to standing on the initial 
> very steepest parts, but soon found myself seated and going up just fine 
> in 
> the 36/32 high gear. I used to have to stand the whole way. I could feel 
> how much more effective it is to be able to use the quad/front muscles 
> more 
> by sitting more forward. When I was too far back I'd have to either stand 
> or go to a lower granny gear and felt weak. My road bike 

Re: [RBW] Ride report & Gus joy

[Kim H.]

Richard,

I thank-you very much for your clarification from your ride report.  I love 
my Bosco bars as well. I have tried numerous times in my head about 
switching these bars out for a different type of handlebar. However, the 
Bosco bars are such a wonderful and comfortable bar for me in riding 
upright that I dare not change them out. 

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA. 

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 6:56:01 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Kim, what I meant to say is that I have no desire to ride any other 
> handlebar than Bosco’s. Both of my bikes have Bosco’s.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 25, 2023, at 12:11 AM, Kim H.  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Thank-you very much for sharing Richard. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your 
> ride report. I am glad that you had a good time. I really enjoyed reading 
> your feedback on riding your Gus and finding that pure joyful feeling when 
> you find your comfort zone to bring you big smiles. 
>
> What front derailleur are you running on your Gus ?
>
> You do not like to riding with Bosco handlebars no more ?  What bars are 
> you using on your Gus ?
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:01:40 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Looks like a great ride and time! I’m happy to hear the Gus is working 
>> out so well for you to complement the Clem!
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 9:15:29 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>>
>>> Great report and great pics. Thanks Richard. Your Gus looks and sounds 
>>> like fantastic fun. That’s what it’s all about. 
>>>
>>> On Jul 24, 2023, at 11:58 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxcQTboPypPcMp5aA
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:54:52 AM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:
>>>
 Greetings all. I am just back from a glorious  two night bikepacking 
 adventure on my Gus and just had to share. This was a loosely organized by 
 invite gathering of mostly Ann Arbor area folks & titled "Meet me in 
 Manchester". I drove from my  home in Toledo to meet up with three other 
 riders travelling from the amazing Sic Transit bike shop in Ann Arbor to 
 our host campsite in Manchester, Michigan. Ours was a lovely 28 mile chill 
 paced ride over mostly smoothish gravel, rolling roads. We set up camp on 
 arrival and once settled in the five of us wedged ourselves into our 
 host's 
 Ford Fiesta for the short drive into Chelsea, Michigan for a wonderful 
 meal/brew. Once back at camp we settled in for the big event on Saturday - 
 choosing one of four carefully sorted routes ranging from 27-85 miles. I 
 joined one other for the 48 mile route. Gus & I found our groove on this 
 gorgeous bike ride over more perfect, mostly gravel roads through 
 beautiful 
 rural countryside. We even found a little dirt / sandy two track - my 
 favorite section. The route passed through Chelsea for another nice 
 mid-ride meal & the ride back to camp just kept getting better. Beautiful 
 blue sky, rolling crop fields, cool old barns & perfect gravel hills are 
 tough to beat. By the time we returned to camp another dozen or so folks 
 had arrived who did not have time to do the full three days. Pizza, beer, 
 frisbee (with Nate's cherished Rivendell Frisbee) pond swimming, dog 
 playing & giant bonfire all happened. Another night under a clear, star 
 filled sky and a well earned sleep. Sunday morning's ride back to Ann 
 Arbor 
 was a shorter (22 mike) route but still beautiful & at times a bit more 
 spirited. Every single time I crested another gravel covered hill I got 
 giddy as a child getting to descend on the Gus. The gravel could get a bit 
 loose but the Gus on 2.6" tires hardly noticed. The last few miles 
 entering 
 Ann Arbor through quiet neighborhoods was very pleasant. Ann Arbor is 
 really a nice place to be on a bike. It is very bike friendly in my 
 estimation. Very nice with the exception of it being the home of that 
 awful 
 team "up north".:)
 I was really on the fence choosing between my Gus and the Clem L. My 
 mind was telling me to take the Clem which weighs 2 pounds less and has 
 the 
 smaller 55mm tires. Logic suggested the Clem might be better for the 
 hills. 
 I've been on loaded rides with the Clem and had no complaints. But, the 
 Gus 
 is new bike and I just had a hankering to take it instead. It was not a 
 bad 
 decision. The 2.6" tires devour gravel. The comfort level on the Gus is 
 unworldly to me, maybe even more so than the Clem. For me long chainstay 
 bikes are "it". Zero drawbacks and so many advantages for my riding. It is 
 a heavy bike, no getting around that fact. But the weight simply 
 disappears 
 when riding and oh how I love my 2 x 7 setup. The front derailleur is a 
 joy 
 to use, taking me back to a time before my bikes had 1x drivetrains. And, 
 I 
 may never ride another 

Re: [RBW] Best Riv Rando Bike

[LBleriot]

I guess the answer depends on your vision/intended use of the rando bike.   
I’ve set up my Bleriot as a traditional fendered dyno lit 650B rando rig, 
but the AHH has front rack eyelets that make use of a front bag easier to 
set up. I also use my MIT Atlantis into a sort of heavy brevet monster.  

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:48:47 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> I’ve never owned one, but I’ve always thought the Rambouillet would do 
> well as a Rando bike. 
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> On Jul 25, 2023, at 5:55 PM, Dick Combs  wrote:
>
> Looking for thoughts/opinions on best Riv model for randonneuring. Thanks
>
> -- 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/0e5e3323-0983-4d13-a073-6775dc1d9bb9n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Best Riv Rando Bike

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I’ve never owned one, but I’ve always thought the Rambouillet would do well as a Rando bike. –Eric NOn Jul 25, 2023, at 5:55 PM, Dick Combs  wrote:Looking for thoughts/opinions on best Riv model for randonneuring. Thanks



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off-list- Re: [RBW] FS: 60cm Gus complete or F/F/HS

[Danny]

Hi Scott,

Such a gorgeous bike/build, nice work! If I didn't already own an orange
Susie, I'd be mighty tempted.

If someone buys just the F/F/HS instead of the complete, and you decide to
sell off the parts, just wanted to throw it out there that I'd be
interested in those Paul levers.

Hope you're able to move it on as a complete, would be a shame to break up
such a nice build, but I get that folks wanna build up their own visions as
well.

Take care,
Danny

On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 11:49 AM scott minor  wrote:

> Parting w my 60cm (XL) Gus..  can sell complete or F/F/HS
>
> Complete bike $3200
>
> I bought the frame from Riv last year (last run).  It's a great riding
> bike.  Friction 2 x 10 drive train is super smooth.  Some specifics on
> components...
>
> Wheels are XTR hubs with Cliffhanger rims, hand built
>
> Drivetrain is Silver 32/22 crankset with external bottom bracket, XTR
> rapid rise rear derailleur with Shimano 10 speed cassette.  Silver2
>  shifters, friction shift w Riv thumb shifter mounts
>
> Paul motolight V-brakes with Paul Love levers
>
> Nitto S65 seat post, Not to 120mm faceplater stem with brass and steel
> spacers, Tosco 31.8 handlebars, Brooks B-17 carved saddle, VP pedals,
> removable ergo grips.
>
> Located in VA
>
> pics here..
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjANohX
>
> thanks!  -Scott
>
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Best Riv Rando Bike

[Dick Combs]

Looking for thoughts/opinions on best Riv model for randonneuring. Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Eric Marth]

Patrick: Sorry about that Fargo but glad to hear it could be repaired. 
Replaceable hangers seem helpful!

On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 10:41:41 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> And: I had Chauncey Matthews use a replaceable hanger when he built the 
> replacement for the Fargo.
>
> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 8:38 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> FWIW, I had a similar experience with a Fargo when a stick jammed the rd: 
>> the hangar was bent 90* inward (and jammed into the cassette; no 
>> single-speeding home). The good news, and the point: a LBS was able to 
>> unbend the rd to usable status again. The replacement rd worked fine. Of 
>> course, YMMV.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 7:50 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> Many thanks, John. I'll check out the spokes. 
>>>
>>> I've been texting with my local mechanic friend, Andre. We're going to 
>>> try and bend the hanger and see how close we can get it. Considering a drop 
>>> out saver from Wheels Mfg. 
>>>
>>> If that fails I'll see about having a new dropout installed. I gotta 
>>> call Will when Riv opens!
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 8:36:56 AM UTC-4 JohnS wrote:
>>>
 Wow Eric, that was a bad one, glad your ok and the Sam is on the mend. 
 Don't forget to check the spokes for nicks, could break easy if they are.

 JohnS


 On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 7:54:06 AM UTC-4 Josh C wrote:

> Wow. That's wild. Glad you're ok. Bummer about the Sam, that's a 
> beautiful bike.
>
> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 9:08:55 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thanks Brian and Danny! 
>>
>> I got the mech freed. The parallelogram housing is twisted, too. The 
>> limit screws aren't in plane, they're twisted! It's a huge mess. Still 
>> have 
>> many good screws, bolts and springs worth saving. Jockey wheels, too. 
>> I'll 
>> leave it as-is and pull parts from it as needed. 
>>
>> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 8:19:03 PM UTC-4 Danny wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry about the hanger damage, but good to hear that you're ok. Even 
>>> in its pretzelized state, it's a good looking derailer sculpture!
>>>
>>> -Danny
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 6:42 PM Brian Turner  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I’m just over here hungry for pretzels.

 Seriously though, glad you’re ok, and I’m sorry about your Sam’s 
 hanger. I’m sure it’ll be up and running strong again soon.

 On Jul 23, 2023, at 6:57 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:

 Thanks, Jim. Just a bit of my own patented brand of sarcasm ;) 

 The damage is waaay out of proportion to the fall. 

 On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 5:57:30 PM UTC-4 J J wrote:

> Wow... the most important thing is that you're fine, Eric. The 
> bike stuff is "just" bike stuff, repairable or replaceable.
>
> I saw your subject line and glanced at the pic before reading your 
> story, and at first I thought, "dang, did he get that thing to 
> actually 
> work?!?"
>
> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 5:30:46 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Dustin: To answer your question, hell no! 
>>
>> Ted: Gonna text the frame builder I know tomorrow. 
>>
>> Jared: Thanks! I'll share again when I have some updates. 
>>
>> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 4:01:11 PM UTC-4 jaredwilson wrote:
>>
>>> Yikes, that looks like a mess! 
>>>
>>> Glad you're okay and it's now another part of that Sam's history.
>>>
>>> Looking forward to seeing your repair updates.
>>>
>>> jared
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 12:32:48 PM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Wow, I’m glad to hear that it was only a minor tumble, but I’m 
 sorry to hear about the derailler… again. That’s quite the pretzel 
 you’ve 
 made, though! I’m not sure I’ve seen such, save for deraillers 
 that went 
 through a far more severe crash.

 I might be crazy, but restoring a busted up mech like that 
 actually sounds like it would be a fun challenge. Hope the hanger 
 can be 
 fixed with minimal fuss but I think you may be right, a frame 
 builder might 
 be needed here. It always baffled me that Riv didn’t adopt 
 replaceable 
 hangers at some point along the line.


 On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 3:20 PM D D  wrote:

> Eric,
>
> Sorry to hear about your misadventure. Thanks for the photo of 
> the pretzel. Did the photo you originally pulled over to take 
> turn out to 
> be 

Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

Does anyone know if you can get the seatpost lower with the new design? My 
IRD post from Riv needs 5 inches and I’ve got it totally slammed. It would 
be nice to know I had a post I could put a little lower. Also, the product 
page shows lengths of 250-350mm and the way I read it, it is measuring the 
shaft of the seat post, not the setback? How would one know which length to 
choose?
Leah

On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 3:55:06 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> Very Good Max ! 
>
> I got the Soma email that showed the seatpost and noticed it looked 
> different, as it was. It's been redesigned with a new forged head and now 
> is 30mm setback rather than the 50mm. 
>
> Just so anyone ordering the post understand IRD doesn't make the previous 
> version anymore. Read the fine print ! 
>
> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 2:58:18 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>
>> Things are working for me without swapping seatposts and simply by 
>> pushing my saddle forward instead of backwards.
>>
>> If anyone is still looking, the IRD posts seem to be back at Somafab: 
>> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/ird-seatpost-wayback-compact-6972?search=compact#attr=346,4463,1073
>>
>> Max
>>
>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 8:08:15 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> I'd guess it's working out for Max since he hasn't posted an update, 
>>> that's usually how it goes when all is well !  
>>>
>>> I can't say bike fitting is mysterious, I'd call it intuitive. While 
>>> others can help steer you in the right direction, the fine tuning is all an 
>>> "inside job", so to speak. Just as no one can eat or breathe for another, 
>>> the Life that Lives In and As ALL isn't up for "negotiation". It MUST BE ! 
>>>
>>> Since I've been re-familiarizing myself with riding in road position 
>>> with DT shifters and new saddle, I've moved mine forward some 15mm+ from 
>>> when I started with it. It just keeps feeling better, as in more 
>>> efficient/effective use of what strengths I have. Yesterday I unexpectedly 
>>> found myself riding up a knarly hill that has some really steep sections. I 
>>> had not ridden it in a long time and surely had my doubts as to doing it. 
>>> It took a while to get in the groove and took to standing on the initial 
>>> very steepest parts, but soon found myself seated and going up just fine in 
>>> the 36/32 high gear. I used to have to stand the whole way. I could feel 
>>> how much more effective it is to be able to use the quad/front muscles more 
>>> by sitting more forward. When I was too far back I'd have to either stand 
>>> or go to a lower granny gear and felt weak. My road bike doesn't have a 
>>> lower gear and thankfully so. I didn't need a lower gear to compensate for 
>>> my self-made mistake, I simply had to express my inherent strengths most 
>>> effectively and efficiently, upon which it often feels effortless. Rather 
>>> neat in that way ! I'm riding 150mm cranks and somewhat mid-foot pedaling, 
>>> all of which just works well for me.  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] So I tried bike racing...

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Hi Clark,

Congratulations on a fine and fun race debut.

I've never raced before, but I've done mass starts at timed events where
I've had tremendous fun trying to stay with the lead pack, even to the
detriment of the remaining parts of the ride when I inevitably fell off the
pack.

There is also a definite beauty and joy in riding in a well coordinated
paceline.  The amount of benefit to the riders in terms of decreased work
is amazing.

I definitely don't have interest in participating in crazy criterion
crashes though.  I'll leave that to the real racers!

Toshi


On Tue, Jul 25, 2023 at 1:56 PM Clark Fitzgerald 
wrote:

> ... and it was a ton of fun!
>
> My paddling buddy called me a couple days before the Great American
> Triathlon  because they needed a
> cyclist to ride as part of a relay team. I've never raced before, but I
> have been riding touring bikes and commuting since 2007, living the "Riv
> Life". Along the way I've picked up a fair amount of prejudice towards
> racing, but now I realize that my attitude was indeed just that- prejudice.
> Racing offers its own kind of joy.
>
> I rode my craigslist special, a steel fixed gear Bianchi San Jose with
> 40mm tires and a 76.5" gear. Among the relay teams, it was the only fixed
> gear, and the only single speed. Most people had carbon road bikes, and
> there were a handful of time trial bikes. I did see one classic, high
> handlebar laid back Rivendell. I performed better than I expected,
> averaging 22 mph over the 12.5 mile course to place 8th out of 129 teams
> for the cycling leg. Drafting was allowed, but I didn't have a chance to
> draft anyone, because our runner (the first leg) was extremely fast with a
> 5:20 mile pace, and that gave me a 3 minute head start.
>
> I would do it again, because I enjoyed pushing myself as hard as I could.
> If there were convenient local bike races, then I would go, but I don't
> feel compelled to go seek them out. I feel no desire to buy a faster bike,
> although I might increase the gear ratio a bit if I train and get stronger.
>
> Bikes offer so many ways to have fun!
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] FS: PAIR of Maxxis DTH 26x2.15" tan wall tires. $85 shipped

[Igor]

Great condition. Coming off a bike my friend did not ride.

$85 shipped. Will include 2x 26" tubes with shrader valves

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[RBW] Re: FS: Outer Shell Handlebar Bag + Camera Pad

[tellyoutoday]

Sold.

On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 3:25:05 PM UTC-7 tellyoutoday wrote:

> Excellent condition Outer Shell Handlebar bag with the camera padding 
> insert which makes this an excellent bag for a small mirrorless or 
> point-and-shoot camera. 
>
> Bought directly from Os and used only a handful of times before switching 
> to another setup. Please contact me with any questions. 
>
> $60 including shipping in U.S. 
>
> https://outershell.com/shop/handlebar-bag
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Big Back Rack 33R & Sackville Olive Bar Tube Handlebar Bag

[Daniel Rooke]

Going to revise to say $60 shipped for the bag.

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 1:37:21 PM UTC-6 Daniel Rooke wrote:

> Both are in good condition.  The bar tube bag has very little wear; the 
> rack shows signs of use.  The rack is also the older iteration with the 
> hanging tabs for panniers.  All hardware included.  Please see photos for 
> detailed view of their condition.  
>
> Rack is $170 and Bag is $60
>
> Shipping for bar tube bag will be $10.20 for a small flat rate USPS 
> Priority Mail Box.
>
> Shipping for rack will be UPS.  I have a box so can give an accurate quote 
> if you send me a zip code.  Shipping is expensive for these larger items 
> even though it isn't that heavy.  
>
> Can ship both for the price of the rack, since the bag can just be 
> included in that box.
>
> Thanks
>
> Photos 
> 
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride report & Gus joy

[Kim H.]

@Valerie...

It is the Rivendell Bicycle Works magic that makes your Gus fly !

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA. 

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 11:31:28 AM UTC-7 Valerie Yates wrote:

> Love the report and love my Gus. It is crazy good fun climbing and 
> descending dirt fire roads. My handling on rough terrain is so much more 
> confident than on any other bike. I don't understand it. It is a big, long, 
> and heavy bike but it flies. 
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 7:56:01 AM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Kim, what I meant to say is that I have no desire to ride any other 
>> handlebar than Bosco’s. Both of my bikes have Bosco’s.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 25, 2023, at 12:11 AM, Kim H.  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Thank-you very much for sharing Richard. I thoroughly enjoyed reading 
>> your ride report. I am glad that you had a good time. I really enjoyed 
>> reading your feedback on riding your Gus and finding that pure joyful 
>> feeling when you find your comfort zone to bring you big smiles. 
>>
>> What front derailleur are you running on your Gus ?
>>
>> You do not like to riding with Bosco handlebars no more ?  What bars are 
>> you using on your Gus ?
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA. 
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:01:40 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Looks like a great ride and time! I’m happy to hear the Gus is working 
>>> out so well for you to complement the Clem!
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 9:15:29 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>>>
 Great report and great pics. Thanks Richard. Your Gus looks and sounds 
 like fantastic fun. That’s what it’s all about. 

 On Jul 24, 2023, at 11:58 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:

 https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxcQTboPypPcMp5aA

 On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:54:52 AM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:

> Greetings all. I am just back from a glorious  two night bikepacking 
> adventure on my Gus and just had to share. This was a loosely organized 
> by 
> invite gathering of mostly Ann Arbor area folks & titled "Meet me in 
> Manchester". I drove from my  home in Toledo to meet up with three other 
> riders travelling from the amazing Sic Transit bike shop in Ann Arbor to 
> our host campsite in Manchester, Michigan. Ours was a lovely 28 mile 
> chill 
> paced ride over mostly smoothish gravel, rolling roads. We set up camp on 
> arrival and once settled in the five of us wedged ourselves into our 
> host's 
> Ford Fiesta for the short drive into Chelsea, Michigan for a wonderful 
> meal/brew. Once back at camp we settled in for the big event on Saturday 
> - 
> choosing one of four carefully sorted routes ranging from 27-85 miles. I 
> joined one other for the 48 mile route. Gus & I found our groove on this 
> gorgeous bike ride over more perfect, mostly gravel roads through 
> beautiful 
> rural countryside. We even found a little dirt / sandy two track - my 
> favorite section. The route passed through Chelsea for another nice 
> mid-ride meal & the ride back to camp just kept getting better. Beautiful 
> blue sky, rolling crop fields, cool old barns & perfect gravel hills are 
> tough to beat. By the time we returned to camp another dozen or so folks 
> had arrived who did not have time to do the full three days. Pizza, beer, 
> frisbee (with Nate's cherished Rivendell Frisbee) pond swimming, dog 
> playing & giant bonfire all happened. Another night under a clear, star 
> filled sky and a well earned sleep. Sunday morning's ride back to Ann 
> Arbor 
> was a shorter (22 mike) route but still beautiful & at times a bit more 
> spirited. Every single time I crested another gravel covered hill I got 
> giddy as a child getting to descend on the Gus. The gravel could get a 
> bit 
> loose but the Gus on 2.6" tires hardly noticed. The last few miles 
> entering 
> Ann Arbor through quiet neighborhoods was very pleasant. Ann Arbor is 
> really a nice place to be on a bike. It is very bike friendly in my 
> estimation. Very nice with the exception of it being the home of that 
> awful 
> team "up north".:)
> I was really on the fence choosing between my Gus and the Clem L. My 
> mind was telling me to take the Clem which weighs 2 pounds less and has 
> the 
> smaller 55mm tires. Logic suggested the Clem might be better for the 
> hills. 
> I've been on loaded rides with the Clem and had no complaints. But, the 
> Gus 
> is new bike and I just had a hankering to take it instead. It was not a 
> bad 
> decision. The 2.6" tires devour gravel. The comfort level on the Gus is 
> unworldly to me, maybe even more so than the Clem. For me long chainstay 
> bikes are "it". Zero drawbacks and so many advantages for my riding. It 
> is 
> a heavy bike, no getting around that fact. But the weight simply 
> disappears 
> when 

Re: [RBW] Re: 26.0 bar in 25.4 clamp?

[Garth]

All that is presented in that video is bar in a stem, not how it was done. 
I see lots of stupid YT videos like that, 30 seconds of sizzle(look what I 
did Ma !) and no steak(the how) to be seen anywhere. "All you gotta do is 
pry it open" . well no $hit Sherlock. Show me the money, baby ! 
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 4:36:47 PM UTC-4 chasenl...@gmail.com wrote:

> https://youtu.be/z6-CdUeGAlk
> Ole Ronny discussing this very matter at the 16:00 mark! Ha
>
> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 6:08 PM Garth  wrote:
>
>> Even "if" you bored out the stem, or shaved the bar,  it would be a bad 
>> idea as the amount of alloy there is there for a very good reason., so 
>> neither break.  Just trying to jam it is just as bad as then you damage 
>> both trying, then you have to buy a new bar AND stem. Just do the right 
>> thing from the beginning and buy a another stem. 
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] So I tried bike racing...

[Clark Fitzgerald]

... and it was a ton of fun!

My paddling buddy called me a couple days before the Great American 
Triathlon  because they needed a 
cyclist to ride as part of a relay team. I've never raced before, but I 
have been riding touring bikes and commuting since 2007, living the "Riv 
Life". Along the way I've picked up a fair amount of prejudice towards 
racing, but now I realize that my attitude was indeed just that- prejudice. 
Racing offers its own kind of joy.

I rode my craigslist special, a steel fixed gear Bianchi San Jose with 40mm 
tires and a 76.5" gear. Among the relay teams, it was the only fixed gear, 
and the only single speed. Most people had carbon road bikes, and there 
were a handful of time trial bikes. I did see one classic, high handlebar 
laid back Rivendell. I performed better than I expected, averaging 22 mph 
over the 12.5 mile course to place 8th out of 129 teams for the cycling 
leg. Drafting was allowed, but I didn't have a chance to draft anyone, 
because our runner (the first leg) was extremely fast with a 5:20 mile 
pace, and that gave me a 3 minute head start.

I would do it again, because I enjoyed pushing myself as hard as I could. 
If there were convenient local bike races, then I would go, but I don't 
feel compelled to go seek them out. I feel no desire to buy a faster bike, 
although I might increase the gear ratio a bit if I train and get stronger.

Bikes offer so many ways to have fun!

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Re: [RBW] Re: 26.0 bar in 25.4 clamp?

[Chasen Smith]

https://youtu.be/z6-CdUeGAlk
Ole Ronny discussing this very matter at the 16:00 mark! Ha

On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 6:08 PM Garth  wrote:

> Even "if" you bored out the stem, or shaved the bar,  it would be a bad
> idea as the amount of alloy there is there for a very good reason., so
> neither break.  Just trying to jam it is just as bad as then you damage
> both trying, then you have to buy a new bar AND stem. Just do the right
> thing from the beginning and buy a another stem.
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto SP72 Jaguar 27.2mm seatpost

[Andrew S]

My first 'FS' post, let's try this and hope for the best

This was on my recently acquired 62cm Saluki (photos and/or ride report to
follow once I've got it properly set up..). On that note, huge thanks
to Todd T in Hercules (not sure if he's on the list), the purchase and
shipping experience could not have been smoother and the bike is a dream to
ride!

I had hoped to make it work, it's a beautiful post, but it's just a touch
too short (250mm), and with my long legs and short torso I don't think I'll
be able to use it on any other bike in the current stable.

Very good condition. Looks like it lists for 189usd at Crust and Merry
Sales, so maybe let's try $100usd including shipping in US/Canada, Paypal
(sorry we can't access Venmo up here), provided that I can secure a
not-too-crazy rate from up here in Alberta (have had pretty good luck with
Netparcel, which usually uses UPS as the most cost effective carrier)?

I'm always open to interesting trades as well

Imgur link to photos:

https://imgur.com/a/X2gNijU

Thanks for the opportunity, and happy to address any issues with the post!

andrew in Calgary

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[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[George Schick]

There's another aspect to adjusting threaded headsets: holding the fork 
stationary while using the two wrenches (one on the bottom of the upper 
stack and the other on the locknut).  Stein Tools sells this device to 
accomplish 
that: https://steintool.com/portfolio-items/fork-stabilizer-tool/.  But 
instead of paying $60 for a specialized tools that gets used only 
occasionally, I just put the front wheel into the fork blades and hold it 
steady with my knees while tightening those headset nuts.  I have what used 
to be called an "Ultimate Rack," now just called a Feedback Sports Rakk 
bike 
stand 
https://feedbacksports.com/products/rakk-bike-stand-black?variant=44392877752618
 
to stabilize the bike so it doesn't tip over. It's close to the same cost 
as the Stein tool, but it can be used much more frequently to hold the bike 
upright while inflating tires, etc.

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 12:36:51 PM UTC-5 George Schick wrote:

> Adding to Wesley's excellent advice, I've found that applying a thin layer 
> of LocTite "blue" to the threads of the top locknut will help keep it from 
> loosening up over time.
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 12:31:23 PM UTC-5 Wesley wrote:
>
>> Oh, and to be more practical: If you can turn the top (lock) nut by hand, 
>> it is not doing anything. I am not sure why the video recommends backing 
>> off the lock nut, but I don't think you should. The "lock" function comes 
>> from tightening that nut until it stretches the steerer. Taken to the 
>> extreme, this will cause the threaded section to be in tension between the 
>> lower and upper nuts until turning either nut in either direction would 
>> feel like "tightening" it. Hence, the nuts are locked. This is how the lock 
>> nuts on loose-bearing hubs work, for instance. You don't need to go to that 
>> extreme on the headset, since the upper bearing doesn't really do anything 
>> other than keep the steerer centered (the bottom bearing carries all the 
>> weight). So just go ahead and turn the lock nut until it is snug 
>> (guesstimating: 15 ft-lbs) and go ride.
>> -W
>> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:00:56 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:
>>
>>> This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
>>> tandem):
>>> 1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is 
>>> fully engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
>>> 2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
>>> cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
>>> video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
>>> (which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
>>> this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
>>> tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
>>> this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
>>> will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
>>> lock) nut with just one wrench.
>>> 3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But 
>>> the lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny 
>>> bit!) until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom 
>>> nut doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube 
>>> elongates it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the 
>>> bearing to be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching 
>>> brings the bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel 
>>> that develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, 
>>> which allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or 
>>> tight (because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
>>> balls.)
>>>
>>> Hope this helps!
>>> -Wes
>>> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
  about 
 adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
 for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is 
 if 
 I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.

 Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing 
 one of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
 from Rivendell where you can see the 
 process but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a 
 wrench or is it enough to hand tighten?

 Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?

 Thanks
 Max

>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Discord Stems, RH tire/s, SM Doom'd Fab's Chest w/Pec Dec

[greenteadrinkers]

Some price drops:

Discord w(Right) Quill Stem - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
Condition: Very Good
https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem
$125 +Shipping

Discord Peeper Threadless Stem - 30mm
Condition: Excellent

https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-components-peeper-stem 

$140 +Shipping

Discord Chromo Creemee Threadless Stem - 0mm Clear Coat
Condition: Very Good
https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-creemee-coming-soon
$140 +Shipping.

RH Oracle Ridge (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
Condition: Nearly New (installed tubeless, rode around the block, 
uninstalled)
$75 +Shipping

On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 2:03:30 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:

>
> *Sold*
> *Small Fabio's Chest - CLASSIC WAXED - (includes Pec Dec V1, selling as a 
> set)*
>
> *Sold*
> *RH Oracle Ridge* (pair) 700c x 48 Standard tires.
>
> *Still Available:*
>
> *Discord w(Right) Quill Stem* - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
> Condition: Very Good
> Some light rust blemishes (which happens with the clear coat, although 
> James removed that caveat from the product page). Also Installed on my 
> SimpleOne, maybe a little over 50 miles of actual use. About 9 cm's from 
> the base of the stem this a visible grove cut into the clear coat that's 
> half the diameter of the stem.
> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem
> $195 new
> *asking* *$145+ Shipping*.
>
> *Discord Peeper Threadless Stem* - 30mm
> (currently out of stock at Analog)
> Condition: Excellent
>
> Installed on the Moonshiner, no hard ridding only green and blue trails 
> and easy local single track, maybe 100 miles total.
> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-components-peeper-stem
> $185 new
> asking $150+ Shipping.
> *Price drop $145+ Shipping.*
>
> *Discord Chromo Creemee* *Threadless Stem *- 0mm Clear Coat
> (currently out of stock at Analog)
> Condition: Excellent / Very Good
>
> Some very light blemishes in the clear coat, you need to hold it under a 
> light to clearly see. Installed on the Moonshiner, no hard ridding only 
> green and blue trails and easy local single track, maybe 100 miles total. 
> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-creemee-coming-soon
> $195 new
> asking $150+ Shipping.
> *Price drop $145+ Shipping.*
>
> *RH Oracle Ridge* (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
> Condition: Excellent
> Needed to replace a standard casing OR on my Sam, and asked my LBS to swap 
> out the tire, oddly the Endurance casing sits wider than the standard 
> casing, which ended up being a no-go for the Sam. The tire was installed 
> tubeless and test rode in the parking lot, it's about as close to new as 
> you'll find used.
> $109 new, (that includes the $17 shipping fee from RH)
> asking $80+ Shipping (price is for 1 tire, not a pair)
> *Price drop **$75+ Shipping (price is for 1 tire, not a pair)*
> On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 1:18:24 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> *Sold*
>> *RH Oracle Ridge* (pair) 700c x 48 Standard tires.
>>
>> On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 12:53:25 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>>
>>> DM for pictures, I'll respond as soon as possible. This is my first time 
>>> posting stuff for sale, so please bear with me.
>>>
>>> Thanks! 
>>> Scott in Amherst MA
>>>
>>> *Discord w(Right) Quill Stem* - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
>>> Condition: VG/VG-
>>> Some light rust blemishes (which happens with the clear coat, although 
>>> James removed that caveat from the product page). Also Installed on my 
>>> SimpleOne, maybe a little over 50 miles of actual use. About 9 cm's from 
>>> the base of the stem this a visible grove cut into the clear coat that's 
>>> half the diameter of the stem.
>>> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem
>>> $195 new
>>> *asking* *$145+ Shipping*.
>>>
>>> *Discord Peeper Threadless Stem* - 30mm 
>>> (currently out of stock at Analog)
>>> Condition: Mint/Near mint 
>>> Installed on the Moonshiner, no hard ridding only green and blue trails 
>>> and easy local single track, maybe 100 miles total.
>>> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-components-peeper-stem
>>> $185 new
>>> *asking* *$150+ Shipping*.
>>>
>>> *Discord Chromo Creemee* *Threadless Stem *- 0mm Clear Coat 
>>> (currently out of stock at Analog)
>>> Condition: VG+/VG-
>>> Some very light blemishes in the clear coat, you need to hold it under a 
>>> light to clearly see. Installed on the Moonshiner, no hard ridding only 
>>> green and blue trails and easy local single track, maybe 100 miles total. 
>>> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-creemee-coming-soon
>>> $195 new
>>> *asking* *$150+ Shipping*.
>>>
>>> *RH Oracle Ridge* (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
>>> Condition: Mint/Near mint
>>> Needed to replace a standard casing OR on my Sam, and asked my LBS to 
>>> swap out the tire, oddly the Endurance casing sits wider than the standard 
>>> casing, 

[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[Piaw Na]

Are the FSA Duron headsets that come with Rivs sealed bearings? The FSA 
website claims angular contact bearings but lists the seals separately?

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:00:56 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
> tandem):
> 1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is 
> fully engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
> 2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
> cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
> video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
> (which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
> this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
> tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
> this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
> will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
> lock) nut with just one wrench.
> 3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But the 
> lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny bit!) 
> until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom nut 
> doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube elongates 
> it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the bearing to 
> be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching brings the 
> bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel that 
> develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, which 
> allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or tight 
> (because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
> balls.)
>
> Hope this helps!
> -Wes
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>
>> There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
>>  about 
>> adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
>> for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
>> I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.
>>
>> Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing 
>> one of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
>> from Rivendell where you can see the 
>> process but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a 
>> wrench or is it enough to hand tighten?
>>
>> Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Max
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Big Back Rack 33R & Sackville Olive Bar Tube Handlebar Bag

[Daniel Rooke]

Both are in good condition.  The bar tube bag has very little wear; the 
rack shows signs of use.  The rack is also the older iteration with the 
hanging tabs for panniers.  All hardware included.  Please see photos for 
detailed view of their condition.  

Rack is $170 and Bag is $60

Shipping for bar tube bag will be $10.20 for a small flat rate USPS 
Priority Mail Box.

Shipping for rack will be UPS.  I have a box so can give an accurate quote 
if you send me a zip code.  Shipping is expensive for these larger items 
even though it isn't that heavy.  

Can ship both for the price of the rack, since the bag can just be included 
in that box.

Thanks

Photos 


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[RBW] FS: Nitto Big Back Rack 33R & Olive Sackville Bar Tube Bag

[Daniel Rooke]

Both are in good condition.  The bar tube bag has very little wear; the 
rack shows signs of use.  The rack is also the older iteration with the 
hanging tabs for panniers.  All hardware included.  Please see photos for 
detailed view of their condition.  

Shipping for bar tube bag will be $10.20 for a small flat rate USPS 
Priority Mail Box.

Shipping for rack will be UPS.  I have a box so can give an accurate quote 
if you send me a zip code.  Shipping is expensive for these larger items 
even though it isn't that heavy.  

Can ship both for the price of the rack, since the bag can just be included 
in that box.

Thanks

Photos 


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Re: [RBW] Ride report & Gus joy

[Valerie Yates]

Love the report and love my Gus. It is crazy good fun climbing and 
descending dirt fire roads. My handling on rough terrain is so much more 
confident than on any other bike. I don't understand it. It is a big, long, 
and heavy bike but it flies. 

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 7:56:01 AM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Kim, what I meant to say is that I have no desire to ride any other 
> handlebar than Bosco’s. Both of my bikes have Bosco’s.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 25, 2023, at 12:11 AM, Kim H.  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Thank-you very much for sharing Richard. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your 
> ride report. I am glad that you had a good time. I really enjoyed reading 
> your feedback on riding your Gus and finding that pure joyful feeling when 
> you find your comfort zone to bring you big smiles. 
>
> What front derailleur are you running on your Gus ?
>
> You do not like to riding with Bosco handlebars no more ?  What bars are 
> you using on your Gus ?
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:01:40 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Looks like a great ride and time! I’m happy to hear the Gus is working 
>> out so well for you to complement the Clem!
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 9:15:29 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>>
>>> Great report and great pics. Thanks Richard. Your Gus looks and sounds 
>>> like fantastic fun. That’s what it’s all about. 
>>>
>>> On Jul 24, 2023, at 11:58 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxcQTboPypPcMp5aA
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:54:52 AM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:
>>>
 Greetings all. I am just back from a glorious  two night bikepacking 
 adventure on my Gus and just had to share. This was a loosely organized by 
 invite gathering of mostly Ann Arbor area folks & titled "Meet me in 
 Manchester". I drove from my  home in Toledo to meet up with three other 
 riders travelling from the amazing Sic Transit bike shop in Ann Arbor to 
 our host campsite in Manchester, Michigan. Ours was a lovely 28 mile chill 
 paced ride over mostly smoothish gravel, rolling roads. We set up camp on 
 arrival and once settled in the five of us wedged ourselves into our 
 host's 
 Ford Fiesta for the short drive into Chelsea, Michigan for a wonderful 
 meal/brew. Once back at camp we settled in for the big event on Saturday - 
 choosing one of four carefully sorted routes ranging from 27-85 miles. I 
 joined one other for the 48 mile route. Gus & I found our groove on this 
 gorgeous bike ride over more perfect, mostly gravel roads through 
 beautiful 
 rural countryside. We even found a little dirt / sandy two track - my 
 favorite section. The route passed through Chelsea for another nice 
 mid-ride meal & the ride back to camp just kept getting better. Beautiful 
 blue sky, rolling crop fields, cool old barns & perfect gravel hills are 
 tough to beat. By the time we returned to camp another dozen or so folks 
 had arrived who did not have time to do the full three days. Pizza, beer, 
 frisbee (with Nate's cherished Rivendell Frisbee) pond swimming, dog 
 playing & giant bonfire all happened. Another night under a clear, star 
 filled sky and a well earned sleep. Sunday morning's ride back to Ann 
 Arbor 
 was a shorter (22 mike) route but still beautiful & at times a bit more 
 spirited. Every single time I crested another gravel covered hill I got 
 giddy as a child getting to descend on the Gus. The gravel could get a bit 
 loose but the Gus on 2.6" tires hardly noticed. The last few miles 
 entering 
 Ann Arbor through quiet neighborhoods was very pleasant. Ann Arbor is 
 really a nice place to be on a bike. It is very bike friendly in my 
 estimation. Very nice with the exception of it being the home of that 
 awful 
 team "up north".:)
 I was really on the fence choosing between my Gus and the Clem L. My 
 mind was telling me to take the Clem which weighs 2 pounds less and has 
 the 
 smaller 55mm tires. Logic suggested the Clem might be better for the 
 hills. 
 I've been on loaded rides with the Clem and had no complaints. But, the 
 Gus 
 is new bike and I just had a hankering to take it instead. It was not a 
 bad 
 decision. The 2.6" tires devour gravel. The comfort level on the Gus is 
 unworldly to me, maybe even more so than the Clem. For me long chainstay 
 bikes are "it". Zero drawbacks and so many advantages for my riding. It is 
 a heavy bike, no getting around that fact. But the weight simply 
 disappears 
 when riding and oh how I love my 2 x 7 setup. The front derailleur is a 
 joy 
 to use, taking me back to a time before my bikes had 1x drivetrains. And, 
 I 
 may never ride another bike not Bosco equipped. Comfort is king.:)
 All in all a really great experience that I look forward to 

Re: [RBW] Re: ISO Roadini...or?

[Andrew Turner]

I dig Jan’s take on bike weight: your bike shouldn’t weigh more than it has
to. As long as you have a good understanding of the bikes purpose and your
riding style, your gut will know better than a bathroom scale.

On Tue, Jul 25, 2023 at 12:50 PM Piaw Na  wrote:

>
> 2 cents: don't get carried away with frame weight, especially when
> comparing steel frames. I'd focus more on geometry. I wanted my Roadini
> build to scratch the same itch but the long wheelbase didn't align with my
> idea of a zippy, skinny-tire road bike.
>
>
> Geometry is by far the most important thing on a road bike. And I include
> the diameter of the tubes as well as the wall thickness. Having said that,
> I don't think I'd ever consider weight unimportant. If you're a heavy
> rider, maybe it matters less, but the lighter you are the more weight
> matters. At 140 pounds or so (going down to 130 pounds when touring), the
> difference between a 30 pound MTB and a 24 pound Roadini is very
> noticeable. Lighter bikes also mean I have an easier time placing the
> wheels precisely on a single track trail. They're also way more fun to
> ride. Finally, if you ever have to fly with the bike, United airlines has a
> 50 pound limit for those of us who're not premiere or paying for business
> class international flights. A lighter bike lets you fly with the bike in a
> sturdy trico ironcase (weight 30 pounds!) without having to pay the $200
> oversize/overweight penalty. I do everything I can to shave the weight of a
> bike down without sacrificing reliability. I simply don't have any excess
> power to waste!
>
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO Roadini...or?

[Piaw Na]

2 cents: don't get carried away with frame weight, especially when 
comparing steel frames. I'd focus more on geometry. I wanted my Roadini 
build to scratch the same itch but the long wheelbase didn't align with my 
idea of a zippy, skinny-tire road bike. 


Geometry is by far the most important thing on a road bike. And I include 
the diameter of the tubes as well as the wall thickness. Having said that, 
I don't think I'd ever consider weight unimportant. If you're a heavy 
rider, maybe it matters less, but the lighter you are the more weight 
matters. At 140 pounds or so (going down to 130 pounds when touring), the 
difference between a 30 pound MTB and a 24 pound Roadini is very 
noticeable. Lighter bikes also mean I have an easier time placing the 
wheels precisely on a single track trail. They're also way more fun to 
ride. Finally, if you ever have to fly with the bike, United airlines has a 
50 pound limit for those of us who're not premiere or paying for business 
class international flights. A lighter bike lets you fly with the bike in a 
sturdy trico ironcase (weight 30 pounds!) without having to pay the $200 
oversize/overweight penalty. I do everything I can to shave the weight of a 
bike down without sacrificing reliability. I simply don't have any excess 
power to waste!
 

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[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[George Schick]

Adding to Wesley's excellent advice, I've found that applying a thin layer 
of LocTite "blue" to the threads of the top locknut will help keep it from 
loosening up over time.

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 12:31:23 PM UTC-5 Wesley wrote:

> Oh, and to be more practical: If you can turn the top (lock) nut by hand, 
> it is not doing anything. I am not sure why the video recommends backing 
> off the lock nut, but I don't think you should. The "lock" function comes 
> from tightening that nut until it stretches the steerer. Taken to the 
> extreme, this will cause the threaded section to be in tension between the 
> lower and upper nuts until turning either nut in either direction would 
> feel like "tightening" it. Hence, the nuts are locked. This is how the lock 
> nuts on loose-bearing hubs work, for instance. You don't need to go to that 
> extreme on the headset, since the upper bearing doesn't really do anything 
> other than keep the steerer centered (the bottom bearing carries all the 
> weight). So just go ahead and turn the lock nut until it is snug 
> (guesstimating: 15 ft-lbs) and go ride.
> -W
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:00:56 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:
>
>> This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
>> tandem):
>> 1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is 
>> fully engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
>> 2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
>> cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
>> video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
>> (which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
>> this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
>> tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
>> this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
>> will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
>> lock) nut with just one wrench.
>> 3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But the 
>> lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny bit!) 
>> until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom nut 
>> doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube elongates 
>> it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the bearing to 
>> be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching brings the 
>> bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel that 
>> develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, which 
>> allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or tight 
>> (because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
>> balls.)
>>
>> Hope this helps!
>> -Wes
>> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
>>>  about 
>>> adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
>>> for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
>>> I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing 
>>> one of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
>>> from Rivendell where you can see the 
>>> process but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a 
>>> wrench or is it enough to hand tighten?
>>>
>>> Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Max
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[Wesley]

Oh, and to be more practical: If you can turn the top (lock) nut by hand, 
it is not doing anything. I am not sure why the video recommends backing 
off the lock nut, but I don't think you should. The "lock" function comes 
from tightening that nut until it stretches the steerer. Taken to the 
extreme, this will cause the threaded section to be in tension between the 
lower and upper nuts until turning either nut in either direction would 
feel like "tightening" it. Hence, the nuts are locked. This is how the lock 
nuts on loose-bearing hubs work, for instance. You don't need to go to that 
extreme on the headset, since the upper bearing doesn't really do anything 
other than keep the steerer centered (the bottom bearing carries all the 
weight). So just go ahead and turn the lock nut until it is snug 
(guesstimating: 15 ft-lbs) and go ride.
-W
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:00:56 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
> tandem):
> 1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is 
> fully engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
> 2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
> cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
> video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
> (which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
> this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
> tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
> this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
> will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
> lock) nut with just one wrench.
> 3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But the 
> lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny bit!) 
> until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom nut 
> doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube elongates 
> it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the bearing to 
> be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching brings the 
> bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel that 
> develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, which 
> allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or tight 
> (because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
> balls.)
>
> Hope this helps!
> -Wes
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>
>> There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
>>  about 
>> adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
>> for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
>> I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.
>>
>> Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing 
>> one of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
>> from Rivendell where you can see the 
>> process but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a 
>> wrench or is it enough to hand tighten?
>>
>> Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Max
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[Wesley]

This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
tandem):
1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is fully 
engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
(which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
lock) nut with just one wrench.
3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But the 
lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny bit!) 
until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom nut 
doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube elongates 
it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the bearing to 
be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching brings the 
bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel that 
develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, which 
allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or tight 
(because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
balls.)

Hope this helps!
-Wes
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:

> There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
>  about 
> adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
> for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
> I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.
>
> Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing one 
> of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
> from Rivendell where you can see the process 
> but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a wrench or is 
> it enough to hand tighten?
>
> Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?
>
> Thanks
> Max
>

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[RBW] Forks and adjusting headsets

[maxcr]

There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
 about 
adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.

Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing one 
of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
from Rivendell where you can see the process 
but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a wrench or is 
it enough to hand tighten?

Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?

Thanks
Max

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Re: [RBW] Ride report & Gus joy

[Richard Rose]

Kim, what I meant to say is that I have no desire to ride any other handlebar than Bosco’s. Both of my bikes have Bosco’s.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 25, 2023, at 12:11 AM, Kim H.  wrote:Thank-you very much for sharing Richard. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your ride report. I am glad that you had a good time. I really enjoyed reading your feedback on riding your Gus and finding that pure joyful feeling when you find your comfort zone to bring you big smiles. What front derailleur are you running on your Gus ?You do not like to riding with Bosco handlebars no more ?  What bars are you using on your Gus ?Kim HetzelYelm, WA. On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:01:40 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com wrote:Looks like a great ride and time! I’m happy to hear the Gus is working out so well for you to complement the Clem!On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 9:15:29 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:Great report and great pics. Thanks Richard. Your Gus looks and sounds like fantastic fun. That’s what it’s all about. On Jul 24, 2023, at 11:58 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxcQTboPypPcMp5aAOn Monday, July 24, 2023 at 11:54:52 AM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:Greetings all. I am just back from a glorious  two night bikepacking adventure on my Gus and just had to share. This was a loosely organized by invite gathering of mostly Ann Arbor area folks & titled "Meet me in Manchester". I drove from my  home in Toledo to meet up with three other riders travelling from the amazing Sic Transit bike shop in Ann Arbor to our host campsite in Manchester, Michigan. Ours was a lovely 28 mile chill paced ride over mostly smoothish gravel, rolling roads. We set up camp on arrival and once settled in the five of us wedged ourselves into our host's Ford Fiesta for the short drive into Chelsea, Michigan for a wonderful meal/brew. Once back at camp we settled in for the big event on Saturday - choosing one of four carefully sorted routes ranging from 27-85 miles. I joined one other for the 48 mile route. Gus & I found our groove on this gorgeous bike ride over more perfect, mostly gravel roads through beautiful rural countryside. We even found a little dirt / sandy two track - my favorite section. The route passed through Chelsea for another nice mid-ride meal & the ride back to camp just kept getting better. Beautiful blue sky, rolling crop fields, cool old barns & perfect gravel hills are tough to beat. By the time we returned to camp another dozen or so folks had arrived who did not have time to do the full three days. Pizza, beer, frisbee (with Nate's cherished Rivendell Frisbee) pond swimming, dog playing & giant bonfire all happened. Another night under a clear, star filled sky and a well earned sleep. Sunday morning's ride back to Ann Arbor was a shorter (22 mike) route but still beautiful & at times a bit more spirited. Every single time I crested another gravel covered hill I got giddy as a child getting to descend on the Gus. The gravel could get a bit loose but the Gus on 2.6" tires hardly noticed. The last few miles entering Ann Arbor through quiet neighborhoods was very pleasant. Ann Arbor is really a nice place to be on a bike. It is very bike friendly in my estimation. Very nice with the exception of it being the home of that awful team "up north".:)I was really on the fence choosing between my Gus and the Clem L. My mind was telling me to take the Clem which weighs 2 pounds less and has the smaller 55mm tires. Logic suggested the Clem might be better for the hills. I've been on loaded rides with the Clem and had no complaints. But, the Gus is new bike and I just had a hankering to take it instead. It was not a bad decision. The 2.6" tires devour gravel. The comfort level on the Gus is unworldly to me, maybe even more so than the Clem. For me long chainstay bikes are "it". Zero drawbacks and so many advantages for my riding. It is a heavy bike, no getting around that fact. But the weight simply disappears when riding and oh how I love my 2 x 7 setup. The front derailleur is a joy to use, taking me back to a time before my bikes had 1x drivetrains. And, I may never ride another bike not Bosco equipped. Comfort is king.:)All in all a really great experience that I look forward to repeating. Link to pics to follow...

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[RBW] Re: Early 80's Specialized Sequoia

[JohnS]

Yep, Costner rode a red Allez in American Flyers, fun bike movie. I'll have 
to torture my family and watch it again some time. 

JohnS

On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 7:58:34 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> My bad...screwed up the colors. Anyway, I do remember being impressed by 
> how thoughtfully these bikes were designed and equipped, and the fact that 
> your 82 Sequoia (and no doubt 83 Expedition) is still going strong is a 
> testament to that.
>
> Other fun fact...I think the team bike on *American Flyers *starring 
> Kevin Costner was a Specialized Allez ; red, I think
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 1:59:57 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
>
>> The early 80's Sequoia was the sport/touring model, in the middle between 
>> the road race Allez and the full on touring Expedition. Not sure what color 
>> options were available. I use to own an 83 Expedition in gray/anthracite. 
>> My 82 Sequoia is dark blue. It's not a feather weight, nor is it a tank, 
>> weigh in at just over 23 pounds with pedals and two water bottle cages. 
>> Fully lugged Tange chrome-moly tubing, with long thinned lugs, it has nice 
>> neutral handling, mounts for fenders and a rear rack and room for 32mm 
>> tires (maybe 35).
>>
>> JohnS
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 1:12:35 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> I also suspect they varied tubing sets basis frame size ; something that 
>>> Bridgestones also did , if you read their ad copy
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>>
 I remember *Bicycle Guide* praising those Sequoias for their fine ride 
 and careful craftsmanship, but they pointed out that the bikes weren't 
 particularly light. Sport-touring? I also remember Specialized having a 
 full-bore touring bike with all required the braze-ons for fenders/racks 
 3- 
 water bottle braze-ons called the Expedition, appropriately and I seem to 
 recall in *Bicycling *ads that these were dark blue. Maybe that's what 
 your friend toured on?

 On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 10:44:15 AM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> Were there different versions of the Sequoia?  The one I was familiar 
> with was a dark metalic grey one, but I think it came in dark blue, too.  
> It wA a fantastic bike, built by Toyo if I remember correctly. But I 
> thought it was a full-on touring bike, with heavy tubing, low bottom 
> bracket  shallow seat tub angle - compared to sportier bikes of the era.  
> My friend used his for numerous, long, heavily-loaded tours, including a 
> months-long, dirt-road (mud) trek from Montana to Alaska and back.
>
> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 11:31:13 AM UTC-6 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 11:57:41 AM UTC-4 Peter Bridge wrote:
>>
>> Did your noticeably heavy Sequoia perhaps have heavy wheels or 
>> thornproof tubes or a spring Brooks saddle or some such?  I find 
>> Sequoias 
>> to be sportingly light. 
>>
>> No, it was the stock parts that came with it. Fairly light wheels, 
>> Turbo tires. I would make the same statement about Heron #1, the 
>> prototype, 
>> which is a Road frame built with Touring stays at the rear. Both frames 
>> are 
>> a joy to ride. 
>>
>> Interestingly, I read somewhere that the Sequoia was designed with a 
>> bit heavier down tube and chain stays. Recently I posted on a frame 
>> building forum a query about the ratio of stiffness among the frame 
>> tubes. 
>> If you look at older Reynolds tube set specs, they have .1mm thicker 
>> down 
>> tubes than top and seat. Or, if you like, their top and seat tube walls 
>> are 
>> .1mm thinner than the down tube. All other tube manufacturers, and even 
>> Reynolds now today, specify tube sets with equal wall thickness around 
>> the 
>> main triangle. It's also important to note that the down tube and seat 
>> tube 
>> were always 1/8" larger diameter than the top tube. Lately it seems 
>> steel 
>> builders have been experimenting away from that, but I haven't seen any 
>> discussion of why they would do that. For my Rivendell Road, for 
>> example, 
>> Grant spec'd the exact same tube for both top and down tubes. So, that 
>> goes 
>> the other direction, making the top tube exactly the same stiffness as 
>> the 
>> down tube. BUT, because the top tube is shorter than the down tube, 
>> there 
>> is less butted section remaining in the top tube. Anyway, my hypothesis 
>> is 
>> that the relative stiffness among the tubes has an effect on how the 
>> frame 
>> feels, and the a stiffer down tube and chain stays is what produced the 
>> "magic" feel of a Reynolds frame. Perhaps backing up this hypothesis is 
>> the 
>> "Spine" line of frames that Trek built, with steel or titanium down 
>> tubes 
>> and chain stays, and carbon tubes elsewhere. Their marketing 

[RBW] Re: Early 80's Specialized Sequoia

[Ryan]

My bad...screwed up the colors. Anyway, I do remember being impressed by 
how thoughtfully these bikes were designed and equipped, and the fact that 
your 82 Sequoia (and no doubt 83 Expedition) is still going strong is a 
testament to that.

Other fun fact...I think the team bike on *American Flyers *starring Kevin 
Costner was a Specialized Allez ; red, I think

On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 1:59:57 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:

> The early 80's Sequoia was the sport/touring model, in the middle between 
> the road race Allez and the full on touring Expedition. Not sure what color 
> options were available. I use to own an 83 Expedition in gray/anthracite. 
> My 82 Sequoia is dark blue. It's not a feather weight, nor is it a tank, 
> weigh in at just over 23 pounds with pedals and two water bottle cages. 
> Fully lugged Tange chrome-moly tubing, with long thinned lugs, it has nice 
> neutral handling, mounts for fenders and a rear rack and room for 32mm 
> tires (maybe 35).
>
> JohnS
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 1:12:35 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
>> I also suspect they varied tubing sets basis frame size ; something that 
>> Bridgestones also did , if you read their ad copy
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> I remember *Bicycle Guide* praising those Sequoias for their fine ride 
>>> and careful craftsmanship, but they pointed out that the bikes weren't 
>>> particularly light. Sport-touring? I also remember Specialized having a 
>>> full-bore touring bike with all required the braze-ons for fenders/racks 3- 
>>> water bottle braze-ons called the Expedition, appropriately and I seem to 
>>> recall in *Bicycling *ads that these were dark blue. Maybe that's what 
>>> your friend toured on?
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 10:44:15 AM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>>>
 Were there different versions of the Sequoia?  The one I was familiar 
 with was a dark metalic grey one, but I think it came in dark blue, too.  
 It wA a fantastic bike, built by Toyo if I remember correctly. But I 
 thought it was a full-on touring bike, with heavy tubing, low bottom 
 bracket  shallow seat tub angle - compared to sportier bikes of the era.  
 My friend used his for numerous, long, heavily-loaded tours, including a 
 months-long, dirt-road (mud) trek from Montana to Alaska and back.

 On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 11:31:13 AM UTC-6 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 11:57:41 AM UTC-4 Peter Bridge wrote:
>
> Did your noticeably heavy Sequoia perhaps have heavy wheels or 
> thornproof tubes or a spring Brooks saddle or some such?  I find Sequoias 
> to be sportingly light. 
>
> No, it was the stock parts that came with it. Fairly light wheels, 
> Turbo tires. I would make the same statement about Heron #1, the 
> prototype, 
> which is a Road frame built with Touring stays at the rear. Both frames 
> are 
> a joy to ride. 
>
> Interestingly, I read somewhere that the Sequoia was designed with a 
> bit heavier down tube and chain stays. Recently I posted on a frame 
> building forum a query about the ratio of stiffness among the frame 
> tubes. 
> If you look at older Reynolds tube set specs, they have .1mm thicker down 
> tubes than top and seat. Or, if you like, their top and seat tube walls 
> are 
> .1mm thinner than the down tube. All other tube manufacturers, and even 
> Reynolds now today, specify tube sets with equal wall thickness around 
> the 
> main triangle. It's also important to note that the down tube and seat 
> tube 
> were always 1/8" larger diameter than the top tube. Lately it seems steel 
> builders have been experimenting away from that, but I haven't seen any 
> discussion of why they would do that. For my Rivendell Road, for example, 
> Grant spec'd the exact same tube for both top and down tubes. So, that 
> goes 
> the other direction, making the top tube exactly the same stiffness as 
> the 
> down tube. BUT, because the top tube is shorter than the down tube, there 
> is less butted section remaining in the top tube. Anyway, my hypothesis 
> is 
> that the relative stiffness among the tubes has an effect on how the 
> frame 
> feels, and the a stiffer down tube and chain stays is what produced the 
> "magic" feel of a Reynolds frame. Perhaps backing up this hypothesis is 
> the 
> "Spine" line of frames that Trek built, with steel or titanium down tubes 
> and chain stays, and carbon tubes elsewhere. Their marketing touted the 
> effect that had on the feel of the frame. A friend has the titanium one 
> and 
> he loves it.
>
> Sorry for the meandering detour. I just found the Specialized Sequoia 
> frame to feel heavy when lifting, compared to some other steel frames. 
> But 
> I loved the way it rode.
>
> Ted Durant